Vollume 6, Issue 1, Spring20009 Advaanced Mass Customizatio C on in Appareel Hosun Lim, L Cynthia L. L Istook, andd Nancy L. Caassill College of o Textiles, North N Carolinaa State Univerrsity, 2401 Research R Drivve, Raleigh, N.C. N 27695-83301 hslim
[email protected] AB BSTRACT a indusstry is underrgoing rapid evolutionaryy changes thaat have resulted from new The apparel technoologies, glob balization, annd consumer demands. Consumers C waant and expeect immediate, personalized serviice and moree variety in product p offerings. To survvive in the apparel ap markeet apparrel companiess have increaased their com mpetitiveness through masss customizattion which is a new business strrategy for goods g and services. s Todday, Internett shopping has h increaseed dramaatically, espeecially for appparel, due to extensive prooduct selectioon, low shippping costs, annd large potential market sizes. Deespite the rapid growth in online sales of o apparel, soome consumerrs are reeluctant to sh hop for clothinng on the Inteernet. They may m perceive risk r due to thheir inability to t try onn garments, feeel the fabric,, and read infformation on care and conntent labels, so s they neglecct to onlline. Thereforre, 3D virtuaal try-on techhnologies for mass custom mization weree developed by b compuuter aided deesign systemss. The virtuall try-on is useed to allow consumers c thee possibility to t see thhemselves orr a model maatching theirr body measuurements andd shape wearring simulateed garmeents online. The purpose of this papeer is to revieew new prodduct developm ment and masss custom mization. This paper discusses appareel companies for f mass custtomization annd the future of o advannced mass cusstomization inn apparel. ustomization, virtual try-onn, new product developmeent, CAD systeem Keywords: mass cu
c innterests, masss productioon of consumer systeems cannot satisfy s both manufacturerrs and consumers. One O resource that fulfils thhe conssumer’s and manufactureer’s need foor persoonalization and a a low-coost customizeed prodduct is mass customizationn (Rosneau & Wilsson, 2006). To T survive in i the appareel markket a com mpany must acquire thhe conssumer’s attenttion to purchase its producct throuugh customizzation prograams which caan prodduce personaalized produccts. Therefore, manyy compannies havee increaseed comppetitiveness and obtaineed tremendouus profi fits through new n productt developmennt for mass m custom mization whicch is the most
1. Inttroduction Thhe apparel ind dustry is undeergoing rapidd evoluutionary chan nges that have h resultedd from the digital revolution, globalization, g , and consumer c dem mands. Previously, a lackk of prooduct availab bility requireed consumerss to tollerate productts that did not meet theirr expecctations. How wever, this hass changed andd consuumers want and expectt immediate,, personnalized serviice and morre variety inn produuct offerings (Smith-Outlinng, 2007). Inn other words, consu umers desire to t personalizee the sttyle, fit and color of the clothes theyy choosse. Given thee changing characteristics c s Articlee Designation: Refereed
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criticaal strategy in n any competiitive industryy (Kum mar & Phro ommathed, 2005). 2 Masss custom mization in ap pparel has beeen studied byy manyy researchers (Burns & Bryant, B 1997;; Anderrson-Connell et al., 1997; Lee & Chen,, 1999;; Fiore et al.,, 2001; Andeerson-Connelll et al.., 2002) and d apparel coompanies aree alreaddy operating at various leevels of masss custom mization.
T purpose of The o this paperr is to providde inforrmation on mass m customizzation and 3D D virtuual try-on for new productt developmennt. Thiss paper also discusses real r examplees wherre mass custoomization andd virtual try-oon are in practice in the apparel inndustry. D t 2. New Product Development N New product developmentt is defined as a the set of activvities beginnning with thhe perception of market m oppoortunities annd endinng in the prooduction, salee, and deliverry of a product (U Ulrich & Epppinger, 20044). Belliiveau, Abbiie, and Steephen (20022) is desccribed that neew product development d of strategyy, “the overall process orgaanization, conncept generaation, producct and marketing pllan creation and a evaluationn, and commercialiization of a new productt” (p.4550). Brentanni (2001) described d new w prodduct developpment is essential foor exceeptional com mpany perfoormance, annd reseaarch about what w leads too new producct succcess and failuure has been carried c out foor bothh goods and seervices.
Thhe Internet, along with the rapidlyy growiing power off computing, has emergedd as a compelling c ch hannel for salle of garmentt produucts (Kim, 2007). Horrrigan (2008)) descriibed that consumers c u using onlinee shoppping have increased dramatically,, especially for appaarel, because apparel retaill websiites are crredited withh providingg consuumers with various v benefi fits, includingg greateer time and cost efficienncy, 24-hourr accesssibility, betteer consistency in service,, and a wider vaariety of prroduct/servicee choicees than brick-and-mo b ortar stores. Howeever, high product return rates persist,, and most m consumeers are still either e hesitantt to purchase p gaarments onliine or aree unsatiisfied with their onlinne shoppingg experrience because they perceiive a risk duee to thheir inability y to try on o garmentss (Horrrigan, 2008). Therefore, T coomputer aidedd designn systems co ompanies havve developedd virtuaal try-on visualization teechniques forr the appparel industtry, enabling visualizationn of gaarments on three dimension avatars. Virtuaal try-on is defined as the t computerr simulation that enaables custom mers to choosee garmeents and try them on 3D D mannequinss that are adjusted to o their body measurements m s and are assisted d to conduuct a moree successful onlinee purchase of apparell (Corddier et al., 200 01). The garm ment is drapedd on their 3D avatars, and the consumer c cann see how the garm ment looks annd fits beforee the puurchase is made (Istook, 20008). Apparell companies curreently focus more onn providding mass customizatioon and 3D D virtuaal try-on for consumerss who shopp onlinee. Proper fitt is the greattest challengee for Innternet vendorrs.
Articlee Designation: Refereed
Crawford annd Di Beneedetto (20033) C depicted that neew product failure is thhe reasoon that com mpanies donn’t understannd conssumers’ need.. Failures alsoo can be linkeed to innadequate maarket researchh, positioningg, and timing as well w as majoor changes in i technnology (Urbaan & Hauser, 1993). T There are many m studies on criticaal succcess factors for NPD, buut the factorrs propposed by the studies are not n all exactlly the same s (Urban & Hauser., 19993; Cooper & Kleinnschmidt, 1994; Cooper, 2001: Craw wford & Di Benedetto, B 20003; Ulrich & Eppiinger, 2004). Successful new producct deveelopment alloows for markket expansionn, increeases profits, and enhannces creativitty and leadership. There T are maany studies on o criticcal success factors for NPD. N Severaal reseaarchers (Coopper, 2001: Crawford C & Di D Beneedetto, 2003; Ulrich & Epppinger, 20044; Urbaan & Hauserr, 1993) havve studied thhe voice of the cusstomer (VOC C) as the most impoortant issue in the succcess of NPD D. 2
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who should play in meeting the t company’s needds. The direction-setting stage of thhe stagee I has several key steps including new w prodduct diagnosstic audit, new producct strategy, and cattegory identiffication. Oncce the direction-settting stage is completedd, management hass a road map m to guidde deveelopment acttivities. The developmennt proccess of the stage s II has several stepps incluuding needs-aand wants exploration, ideea geneeration, concept developm ment, businesss analyysis, screeninng, prototypee developmennt, markket testing. plan scale-up annd manuufacturing teesting, comm mercializationn, and postlaunch chechup. c
Accorrding to Ch hoi, Powell, and Cassilll (20055), the issues that the target t markett segmeent is su ufficiently large andd competition is manageable m are criticall success factors in NPD. N N Product Developmen nt Processes 2.1. New Neew product developmentt process iss defineed as “a disciplined and defined d set off tasks and steps that t describee the normall meanss by which a companyy repetitivelyy conveerts embryonic ideas into salablee produucts or serv vices” (Bellivveau et al.,, 2002)). Ulrich and d Eppinger (22004) stated,, “A neew product development d p process is thee sequeence of step ps or activities that ann enterpprise employss to conceivee, design, andd comm mercialize a prroduct” (p.122).
U Urban and Haauser (1993) suggested thaat new product devvelopment haas a five-steep decission processs includingg opportunitty identtification, deesign, testing, introductionn, and profit manaagement for new producct deveelopment annd each of the activitty other categgories of n new producct deveelopment p processes are aligneed vertiically. Ulricch and Epppinger (20044) explained that prooduct developpment consists of six phases inncluding plannning, conceppt deveelopment, syystem-level design, d Detaail desiggn, testing and refinnement, annd prodduction ramp-up.
Neew product developmennt processess have been develop ped by severaal researcherss (Kuczzmarski, 1992 2; Urban & Hauser, H 1993;; Ulrichh & Eppingeer, 2004; Craawford & Dii Beneddetto, 2003; Tyler, 2008)). Choi et al. (20055) summaarized new w productt develoopment processes ideentified byy previoous researchers. They deescribed thatt each new producct developmeent processess model consists of differeent processs arranggements. Even though thesse models usee the different step terminologiees, they havee similaarities in key y activities annd functions. In otther words, the process begins withh percepption of market m opporrtunities andd typicaally involv ves identiffication off custom mers’ needs, design developmentt process, product & market testing, andd markeet launch (Ch hoi et al., 20055).
C Crawford annd Di Beneedetto (20033) desccribed new prooduct developpment has fivve phasses includingg opportunityy identificatioon and selection, concept generationn, conccept/project evaluation, developmennt, They expplained launch. and thaat simuultaneous phaases of develoopment reducce timee to market. Therefore, T it is i critical to be b awarre that the prroduct development processs is a multi cross-functional prrogram, wherre all functions f woork together to accomplissh the required r task.
Kuuczmarski (1 1992) descriibed a new w produuct developmeent which is identified thee follow wing approacches as consumer driven,, competition driven, or technoology driven. Kuczm marski (1992 2) discussed that a new w produuct developm ment processs is usuallyy applieed at severaal steps of an a executionn process: setting priorities for f categoryy selecttion, conceptt developmennt, and afterr busineess analysis. The first stagge of the NPD D process managemeent process teells managerss Articlee Designation: Refereed
T Tyler (2008) described how producct deveelopment might m operatee using thhe princciple of conccurrency. Thee starting poinnt is a proposal for a new produuct from a new w prodducts team. This feeds into a globaal desiggn optimizattion proceduure which haas seveeral steps inncluding opptimization of o 3
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manuufacture, siimplification,, materialss optim mization, environmental analysis, a andd resourrce analysis. Tyler (20008) describedd that toools for NPD D are requiredd not only forr completing specific tasks, but b also forr munication inn suppoorting internaational comm the global g markett. Tyler (20008) depicted,, “CAD D software for f pattern specification,, gradinng and mark ker making has long beenn used in the indusstry, and it is difficult too regardd these as other o than inndispensable. Digitaal informatio on can be coommunicatedd easilyy and in ways that are comppatible with a globaalised supply y chain. Othher softwaree tools are used at a the design stage, forr forecaasting, desiigning andd collectionn plannning.” (p. 165)) This NPD model m focusedd technoologists moree than others. The precisee analysis of con nsumer’s neeed, markett researrch, adequate positioning, and adequatee timingg as well ass advanced technology t iss criticaal for the succcess of NPD. At this pointt of vieew, mass cusstomization which w focusess consuumer-driven model andd advancedd technoology is imp portant issuee to the new w produuct developmeent.
P Pine (19993) descrribed masss custoomization ass a new bussiness strateggy wherre goods andd services arre customizeed withhin the contexxt of a given product p line to t fulfill an individdual’s demannds in a cossteffecctive way. Technologyy applicationns incluuding compputer-aided design, thhe Interrnet, and fleexible manuffacturing havve enabbled firms to t identify and meet a custoomer’s indivvidual needss and wantts. Autoomobile, com mputer, and entertainmennt comppanies haave embrraced masss custoomization (Piine, 1993). S Staples (20001) discuusses masss custoomization ass an outgroowth of masss prodduct which is a “consumer driveen businness strategyy that uses innformation annd manuufacturing technology t to efficientlly with prodduce goods maximum m diffeerentiation annd low-cost production, annd characterized by b “individuualized masss prodduction.” K Kamali and Loocker (2002) described “thhe goal of mass cuustomization is to developp, prodduce, market and deliver products witth enouugh variety soo that every consumer c findds exacctly what hee/she wants when he/shhe wantts it”. Accoording to Zipkin Z (2001), elicittation, proceess flexibilityy and logisticcs are the t three maiin componennts which neeed to be considerred in impplementing a succcessful MC practice. It is also verry impoortant that these com mponents arre propperly integrateed to effectivvely coordinatte amonng order management, manufacturinng and distribution. Design techhnologies succh as computer c aidded design (CAD), virtuaal realiity and multtimedia technnology enablle the customer c to design d their preference, p annd then integrate thee customers’ selection witth the firm’s assem mbly and dellivery system m. Thesse provide a better graspp of customeer requuirement in eliicitation (Berman, 2002).
3. Maass Customizzation Mass customizzation (MC) is defined ass the inntegration of standardized processes off productio mass on with informationn technoology thatt permits efficientlyy produucing individ dually tailorred productss and/or services on n a large scale (Anderson-Conneell et al., 20 002; Zipkin, 2001). Masss custom mization wass first identiffied by Daviss (19877) in his boo ok, Future Perfect, P as ann oxym moron combiining the contradictoryy terms of “mass production p ( (MP)” wheree large numbers of identicall items aree produuced and “cu ustomization”” where eachh produuct is unique for each custtomer. A few w years later, Pine (1993) ( conneected Davis’ss descriiption of mass customizaation to Pioree and Sable’s (1984) conceptt of markett turbullence which is defined as a uncertainlyy related to condition ns in the markketplace.
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that digital inform mation and neew technologgy in thhe process of manufacturin m ng will develoop custoomized apparel with four optionns: “exppanded sellection/searchh;” “desiggn optioon;” “co-design;” and “tottal custom.” In I the “expanded “ search,” a custoomer is able to t acceess various manufacturers’ m ’ product linees throuugh intelligennt search capaabilities. In thhe “dessign option,” the custom mer is able to t selecct from manuufacturer/retaailer’s designns, sizinng, style optioons, style detaails, color, annd fabriic. “Co-dessign” offerrs additionaal persoonal fit throuugh the ad deesign manageer, baseed on the “design opttion choices.” Finaally, in “totaal custom,” the customeer comm municates hiis or her ow wn designs to t manuufacturers or retailers in a digital formaat (Ulriich et al., 20003).
3.1. Apparel A Masss Customizattion Mass customizzation in appaarel has beenn studieed by severaal researcherrs (Burns & Bryannt, 1997; Anderson-Con A nnell et al.,, 1997;; Lee & Chen n, 1999; Fioree et al., 2001;; Anderrson-Connell et al., 2002). Buurns and Bry yant (1997) explained thatt mass customizatio on in apparel is processedd by coomputer tech hnology. Theese processess are too obtain custtomer measurrements by a sales person witth the assisstance of a computer, enter thee data into a computer c andd alter specification ns as preferrred by thee custom mer, sending adjusted meaasurements too a faabric cutting g machine to obtainn custom mized garmeent pieces with w barcodee labelss, assembled, and retaileed (Burns & Bryannt, 1997). Ku urt Salmon Asssociates alsoo descriibed apparell customizatiion came inn three varieties succh as personnalization, fit,, and design (Ives & Piccoli, 2003).
L Lee and Cheen (1999) described d how w appaarel indusstries practice masss custoomization baased on the concept of MC definned by Pinee (1993). Thhey discusseed technnologies succh as ‘smart card’, ‘boddy scannner’, and innformation coollection. Thhe precise measurrements of individuaal conssumers are reqquired to custtomize appareel prodducts and a consumer is i able to be b meassured by hannd, by body scanner, s or by b video camera. Thhen, these meaasurements arre enterred into the system s whichh consequentlly adjusts the size of matching points on thhe patteern prototype (Lee & Chenn, 1999). Theey explained that apparel a industries with thhe manuufacturing cooncepts such as a JIT (Just-InnTimee) or QR (Quuick Responsse) found new w niche markets for the maade-to-measurre garm ment and masss customizattion became a broaad trend for apparel a indusstry productioon and retail (Lee & Chen, 1999). Theey preseented a moddel explainingg the effect of o masss customization on the appparel industryy. For example, in clothing c comppanies such as a Levii Strauss, Seccond Skin Swimwear, annd Custtom Foot, maass customizaation begins in i a rettail store wherre a line of reeady-to-wear is provvided along with mass customizatioon serviices (Lee & Chen, C 1999).
Ass Textile & Clothing Technologyy Corpooration [TC]2 discusses, MC M for apparell and footwear f can be positioneed into threee main categories including i perrsonalization,, fit andd design. Forr personalizattion, productss are customized c for f consumeer individuall needss. Personalized body measuurements andd speciffications are suppliedd to thee manuufacturing pro ocess to be individuallyy made to meet the customer seelections, e.g. color,, fabric, construction, accessories,, threadd, etc. Then n, the produuct design iss accesssed as per cu ustomer’s requuest (Textile-Clothhing-Technolo ogy-Corporatiion, 1998). to Anderrson-Connell,, Acccording Brannnon, Ulrich, and Marsshall (1997),, consuumer interests in customiizing apparell includde changing g design options o andd personnal fit with the aid of a well-trainedd assistaant, which th hey called co--design. Theyy foundd fit to be a critical issuue in apparell mass customizattion. Anderrson-Connell,, Brannnon, Ulrich, Marshall, and Stapless (19988) created a model of masss custom mization forr the apparrel industry. Basedd on consumeer research, thhey indicatedd Articlee Designation: Refereed
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deveeloping i individualized d producct speccifications. A customer is able to choosse indivvidualized combinations c of producct stylee, fabric, coloor, and size frrom a group of o optioons, create a unique designn based on his or her h preferencees, or achievee personalizeed size and fit based b on physical p boddy meassurements or bodyy scanningg. Speccifications are developed, the customeer payss for the prodduct, and the order o is sent to t the production p faacility. The prroduct is madde and sent to the customer inn a few dayys. Techhnological developments d make masss custoomization of apparel viabble (Scheller & Raboon, 1997). Supportiing appareel technnologies innclude boddy scanningg, compputer-aided design, d singlle ply cutterrs, digittal printing, and modulaar productionn. Bodyy scanning requires r highhly developeed electtronic devvices to take boddy meassurements. Clothing C coompanies likke Levii Strauss andd Second Skkin Swimweaar (Rabbon, 1996) use u the meaasurements to t custoomize garmeent size and fit. The boddy meassurement infformation cann be digitallly storeed on a smartt card for porttability (Lee & Chenn, 1999).
Fioore, Lee, Ku unz, and Cam mpbell (2001)) descriibed two im mportant options in masss custom mization are body scanniing for betterr fit and co-design for f a unique design. Bodyy scannning involv ves using electronicc measuurements of the t customerr's body form m to devvelop a manu ufactured prooduct with ann indiviidualized fit. In I co-design the customer,, generrally with thee aid of CAD D technologyy and/or professionaal assistance, compiles ann indiviidualized prroduct desiggn from a company's style, fabric, coolor, surfacee designn and size alternatives a ( (Fiore et al.,, 2001)). Annderson-Conn nell, Ulrich, and Brannonn (20022) found content analysis a off particcipants’ com mments reveaaled positivee and negative perceptions of masss custom mization and related technnologies. Thiss study described th hat the consttruction of a consuumer-based model m providdes an initiall frameework for ressearchers andd the businesss comm munity to usse in exploriing how thee paraddigm of masss customizatiion could bee applieed as a busineess strategy in i the apparell industtry. They dev veloped a moodel to depict,, for apparel a busin nesses, mass customizingg avenuues that wou uld mesh witth consumer-expressed interestts. Their model’s m pathss range from first steps to moree complicatedd strateggies for masss customizatioon of apparel. At a more techno ologically advvanced level,, body scanning and a smart cards c wouldd facilittate custom mized fit and designn (Andeerson-Connelll et al., 2002)).
Levi Strauss & Co. L F Founded in 1853 by Bavarian, B Levvi Strauuss & Co. was w the first large appareel comppany to offer mass customizatioon throuugh jeans, offering o choices in style, fabriic, finish, color, c and innseam lengthh. Jeanns fit is determined by inputting thhe indivvidual’s m measurements s, acquireed manuually by a saalesperson, annd preferencees into a computer program theen having thhe custoomer try on sample s jeans (Lee & Chenn, 19999). In 19955 Levi intrroduced theeir “Oriiginal Spin” program, which w alloweed custoomers to viisit a Levi’ss store to be b meassured for jeaans. The jeaans were theen custoom-tailored and subseqquently hom me delivvered (Tedesshi, 2001). Inn the store, a trainned sales person p takess four initiaal meassurements off the waist, hipp, inseam, annd rise. These meassurements aree entered intto the computer syystem, whicch suggests a protootype-test garment. The consumer c triees the prototype p onn and fit moddifications arre
A Com mpanies for Mass M 3.2. Apparel Custoomization Mass customizaation allows the t consumerr to moodify a compaany’s productt line to meett indiviidualized design d tastes or fitt requirrements. For F exampple, manyy companies, includ ding Levi Strrauss, Brookss Brothhers, Second Skin Swimw wear, Custom m Foot, etc. are operrating at variious levels off mass customizatio on (Lee & Chen, C 1999). After examining ready-to-wear r r and perhapss tryingg on garmen nts to estabblish fit andd sizingg, the cusstomer is assisted inn Articlee Designation: Refereed
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made in any of fo our areas of the garment,, basedd on the conssumer’s prefeerences (suchh as a tighter fit, looser fit, shorter, andd longer). Two or th hree prototypees are usuallyy requirred to find the perfect fit for thee custom mer (Lee & Chen, C 1999). Also, Levi’ss attem mpt to sell merchandise tailored orr otherw wise, online from their web w site wass curtaiiled in Noveember of 19999 when thee firm announced a itss intentions to instead selll througgh the web sites of two of its majorr custom mers, J. C. Peenney and Maacy.
Interrnet shoppingg has a limit that t consumerrs can’tt try on cllothing beforre purchasinng (Vollino et al.,, 2005). Therefore, T thhe combbination of maade-to-measurre manuufacturing annd shopping via v the Interneet havee arisen reccently acrosss the worlld throuugh the em mergence of technologiees, systeems and praactices, such as 3D boddy scannners, the customization c n of existinng stylees, and virrtual try-on visualizatioon technnologies (Volino et al., 20005; Cordier et e al., 2001). 2
Brrooks Brotherrs Foounded in 181 18, Brooks Brrothers offerss a masss customization system at their New w York City retail store, s integratted with new w technoologies includ ding a 3D body scanner too collecct customeer measureements. Inn Novem mber of 2001, 2 Brookks Brotherss introdduced a “Dig gital-Tailoringg” system forr custom mized suits,, jackets, trrousers, andd shirts. In 12 secon nds the system m could scann the customers’ c bo ody and reccord 200,0000 data points. Thesse data pointts were thenn translated into exact measurem ments for 455 speciffic tailoring measurements m s (e.g., collar,, neck). The custom mer could thenn choose from m hundrreds of fabriccs and a variety of styles. Produucts were ship pped in aboutt three weekss (Colm man, 2001). Brooks Brothers uses a propriietary custom m patternmakiing system too createe an individu ual pattern baased on bodyy measuurements. The T custom garment iss manuufactured and shipped to thhe store wheree a singgle fitting ensu ures customer satisfaction. Scan data and patteerns for each customer aree storedd for reorders (Tedeshi, 2001).
4.1. Body Scanniing Technoloogy and Fit Body scannning technoologies havve B certaainly achieveed significantt advancemennt in the t area of sizing, fit, and producct visuaalization andd apparel coompanies havve usedd body scannners for cuustom fit. Foor exam mple, Levi Strauss S providded customerrs the opportunity o t be scannedd for a pair of to o custoom jeans in thheir San Franncisco store. In I the ‘My Virtuual Model Tour 20000’ sponnsored by Lannds’ End, thee world’s firrst bodyy scanning truck wass introducedd. Indivviduals weree scanned with w an Imagge Twinn scanner andd the virtual model m with thhe indivvidual size was w created and could be b usedd to try on clothes c througgh the Landss’ End catalog and website. Brrooks Brotherrs usedd to scan custoomers in-storee in New Yorrk City to offer cuustomized garments. This proccess allows thhe customer too find the best size in their desired d fit (Istook, ( 20088; Chappman, 2001)). Many of the scanninng harddware manuffacturers havve developeed softw ware to allow w automatic measuremennt extraaction from the scanned 3D data. Incluuded in thiss group aree: Cyberware, Ham mamatsu, Hamano, TC2, Telmat, annd TecM Math (Istookk & Hwang, 2001). Threee dimeension body scanners s captuure the outsidde surfaace of the human h body using opticaal technniques, in combinationn with lighht sensitive devices. The laser and a light-baseed systeems are thee primary tyypes of boddy scannning systems. The individuaal meassurements annd image takeen from the 3D D bodyy scan can be automaticaally transferreed into a compuuter databaase and an a
dvanced Masss Customizattion in 4. Ad Appaarel Thhe Internet along with the rapidlyy growiing power off computing has emergedd as a compelling c ch hannel for salle of garmentt produucts. Consumeers that purchhase garmentss onlinee base their purchase p and size-selection s n decisiions mostly on o 2D photoss of garmentss and sizing s charts. However, thhis method iss not precise p enou ugh and noot interactivee enouggh to providee right sizingg and choice. Articlee Designation: Refereed
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usedd to allow online coonsumers thhe posssibility to see themselvess or a modeel matcching their body measuurements annd shappe wearing simulated gaarments. This form m of digital tryy-on or modeeling assists in i the many challlenges faced by onlinne mercchants of accurately representinng prodducts (Kartsouunis et al., 2007). The resuult of virtual try-on technollogy enablees conssumers to makke better informed purchasse decissions througgh accurate representation r n, clearr images withh quick loadinng times (Fiorre et al., 2005).
interm mediate softw ware program m can suitablyy utilizee the in nformation for masss custom mization or virtual try onn technologyy (Keiseer & Garner, 2003).
1 Body Scan n [TC]2 Figure 1. Sourcce: www.tc2.ccom
S Several CA AD system ms includinng Brow wzwear, Optittex, Lectra, and a others havve deveeloped softwaare for the appparel industrry enabbling visualization of garm ments on threee dimeension avaatars (Virtuual Fashioon Techhnology, 20007). These avatars a can be b adjusted to generrally mimic a specific set of o fit measurements m s by fine-tunning points of o meassure, such as the bustt, waist, hipp, abdoomen, etc. Viirtual garmennt patterns caan be set s to sew toogether on a virtual avataar demonstrating thhe potentiall fit of thhe garm ment. The virtual v try-onn technologiees allow w consumerss to try the garment witth ts silhoouette, fabric,, color, and embellishmen e on the t body witth their meassurements annd evaluuate clothinng fit over the Interneet (Istoook, 2008).
4.2. Virtual V Try-O On Viirtual try-on is i defined as the computerr simulation that cu ustomers chooose garmentss and trry on 3D man nnequins thatt are adjustedd to theeir body meassurements, and are assistedd to connduct proper online o purchaase of apparell (Corddier et al., 2001; Virttual Fashionn Technnology, 200 07). In otther words,, consuumers of the virtual appaarel shop aree able to simulatee chosen garments g onn virtuaally animated d bodies. Beesides seeingg the gaarments fitted on their viirtual bodies,, custom mers are ablee to animate the t clothes ass well. In an interaactive and reaalistic virtuall clothiing store, cusstomers are abble to choosee amonng different apparel item ms and thenn proceed with visu ualizing them on animatedd mannnequins creaated using their ownn measuurements (L Loker et al., 2008;; MIRA ALab, 2003).. Virtual tryy-on supportss operaations includiing automatic adjustmentt of thee 3D mannequ uin based on an individuall body measurementt, the selectioon of differentt garmeent items, th he online fiitting of thee garmeent to the 3D D mannequin and real-timee simulation of the t garmentt movementt (Volinno et al., 20 005). Loker et al. (2004)) discusssed virtual design d has beeen consideredd an im mportant parrt of the appparel designn custom mization toolls, as interestt increases inn garmeent customizzation, e-com mmerce, andd availaable advan ncing 3D technology. Kartsoounis, Maagnenat-Thalm mann, andd Rodriian (2007) described d virttual try-on iss
Articlee Designation: Refereed
Browzwear B B Browzwear Innternational develops annd manuufactures advvanced 3D fashion f desiggn and communicaation software for thhe garm ment and textile inddustries. Thhe comppany, foundeed in 1999, is headquartereed in Tel T Aviv (Broowzwear Inteernational Ltdd, 20088). Its vendoors distributee its products worlldwide to ovver 160 indusstry leaders in i moree than 25 countries. c Brrowzwear haas won the supportt of major innvestors, from m textiile industry leeaders to buiilders of highhtech companies and economic advisors. This comppany is com mmitted to its vision of o harnnessing 3D visualizationn of modells, garm ments and fabbrics to the ennhancement of o the fashion inddustry, helping designerrs, manuufacturers and shoppers allike to take thhe 8
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next major step in the revolution of ann evolvving industrry (Apparell Magazine,, 2008)). Browzwear's succeess is itss comm mitment to the 3D geeneration off softw ware design solutions such s as V-Stitch her™, V-S Styler™ annd C-Me™ ™ recognized as the best commerciall appliccations on the markeet for 3D D visuallization and design of garments g andd materrials (Techexcchange.com, 2006, Marchh 2).
breed software evven better by enhancing onne of itts core produucts, 3D Runnway Designeer 10, with remotee collaboratioon tools. This systeem allows prooduction and image files in i 2D and 3D to be sent betw ween partnerrs D partiicipating in the design process. 3D Runw way Designeer 10 has new w customizablle featuures and optioons, allowingg designers thhe freeddom to changge textures, materials, m colorrs and stitches or addd logos on screen s withouut usingg a single piece of fabricc. The garmennt can then be seenn “in action”” on OptiTexx's 3D models, m all off which are fully fu adjustablle to reflect r any body b type. OptiTex’s O onnscreeen environm ment is cusstomizable to t enhaance the desiggner’s creativve process. Thhe accuuracy of the images i eliminnates materiaal, energy and time waste, w providding rapid RO OI as well w as an environmenntally friendlly application (Techhexchange.com, 2008, Maay 27).
Brrowzwear provides p reeal-time 3D D solutions to thee growing business-to-busineess and e-com mmerce markkets for onlinee apparrel segmentts. The company c iss convinced that the t number of returnedd garmeents can be reduced by using its 3D D virtuaal design so oftware. Thee 3D virtuall designn simulation detail can reeduce productt approoval and prod duction time by allowingg the enntire supply chain c to visuaalize productss and shhare input sim multaneouslyy. This resultss in acccelerating tim me to market and a ultimatelyy increaasing profitab bility (Apparrel Magazine,, 2008)).
Tex Figgure 3. OptiT Source: http://www.op h ptitex.com Lectra System L ms, Inc. F Founded in 1973, Lectra Systems, Incc., one of leading CAD/CAM C suuppliers to thhe appaarel Industry, provides maade-to-measurre soluttions that offe fers a wide rannge of patternn, colorr, fabric, andd fit (Lectra System, S 20088). Lecttra Systems, Inc. I announceed that the new w versiion of Modaaris 3D Fit was w the highest perfoormance virtuual 3D protottyping solutioon on the t market. Modaris 3D D Fit enablees patteern-makers, designers, d deevelopers, annd saless and marketting teams too simulate annd visuaalize their models m in 3D D on a virtuaal mannnequin, incluuding the coloors, motifs, annd fabriics originallly created in i 2D. Witth Moddaris 3D Fitt, the look and fit of a garm ment can be verified, andd its style annd that of entire collections cann be validatedd.
wear Figurre 2. Browzw owzwear.com m/profile.htm htttp://www.bro OpptiTex Foounded in 198 88, OptiTex specializes s inn the development d of innovattive easy-to-operaate 2D-3D CAD/CAM C s solutions andd offerss the convenieent option off purchasing a completely integ grated CAD D package,, includding OptiTeex softwaree solutions,, digitizzer, and pen or ink jet plootter (Optitex,, 2008)). Like other CAD suppliiers, OptiTexx USA, Inc. also focuses a 3D virtual v designn and information management via thee internnet. OptiTex has h also madde its best-of-Articlee Designation: Refereed
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Virtuaal 3D prototy yping ensurees the qualityy of a garment and d its look and fit in alll graded sizes, reducces the numbeer of physicall protottypes necessary to finaliize a model,, and makes com mmunication more fluidd amonng the actors in product developmentt (Techhexchange.com m, 2008, Junne 12). It thuss acceleerates the collection development cyclee and enables e users to overcom me the Fastt Fashioon. Finally, 3D virtual prototypingg helps reduce dev velopment coosts and, ass such, is a real competitive advantage a forr apparrel professionals. Modaris 3D Fit standss out as the most advanced a soluution for thee universe of fashion n (Lectra Systtems, 2008).
The e-fit Sim mulator creeates virtuaal protootypes of gaarments, reduucing time to t markket and incrreasing efficciency in thhe appaarel product development d process (Jusststylee.com, 2004, September S 7)).
Figure 5. TUKATEC CH’s e-fit Simulatoor (Delevan, 2007)
M Virtual Model My M (MVM) My Virtual ModelTM Incorporatedd, M founnded in 19933 as Public Technologiees Multtimedia Incoorporated (PT TM), providees retaiilers and theeir customerss with onlinne appaarel shoppingg technologiess and services. Virtuual try-on is currently offfered to onlinne retaiilers by My Virtual V Modeel (www.mvm m .com m), a Canadiaan company. In 2001, ‘M My T Virtuual ModelTM ’, so faar the most comm mercially succcessful try-oon technologyy, offerred ‘My Virtuual Model Drressing Room m’ and ‘My Virtual Model Fit’, which w enableed userss to try on clothes as welll as size, miix and match, peersonalize, and evaluatte clothhing over thee Internet. The T companyy's My Virtual Model M Imaiil™ producct, launched in 2002, supports thee integration of o My Virtual Moddel Dressing Room with ee maill messages. It I allows rettailers to sennd persoonalized messages to cuustomers (M My Virtuual Model, 20008).
Figure 4. Lectra Sysstems Sourcee: www.lectraa.com Tu ukatech Tuukatech was founded in California inn 1997 and it has launched a new CAD D produuct that can n help redduce samplee approoval and prod duction time by allowingg the enntire supply chain c to visualize garmentss via the Intern net and share s inputt simultaneously (T Tukatech, 20008). In 2004,, Tukattech began work w on a new n softwaree produuct that it dub bbed the e-fit Simulator byy TUKA A. The 'e--fit Simulatoor' softwaree allow wed designerrs, pattern makers andd manuufacturers to make fit coomments andd suggeest alterationss more quicklyy. It creates a virtuaal garment from a twoo-dimensionall patterrn and drapees this over a 3-D bodyy imagee with life-lik ke movementt capabilities. The same patterns used to cut actual sampless are ussed by e-fit Simulator, S annd the virtuall fit moodels are creaated using boody scan dataa of reaal fit modelss. Dozens off preset clothh types can be blended together to testt garmeents using the t intended fabric, andd additiional presets can c be createdd by the user. Articlee Designation: Refereed
My Virtual Model M M is one of the earliest efforrts of the virtual v try-onn concept foor custoomers availaable online Land’s Endd, Searrs, H&M, Addidas, Speedoo, Levi Strausss & Co., Nutri/Systtem, Lane Brryant, Crossinng Poinnte, Kenneth Cole, WedddingChannell.com, Orvis, Plussize.com m, and others. Thesee systems werre designed foor 10
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style selection an nd the interacctive processs generrally requirees customerrs to enterr inform mation about their body shhapes, such ass small or large bu ust, waist, annd hip, torsoo lengthh and should der width (seee Figure 6). The image of the customer’s body b shape iss displaayed on the screen s for connfirmation orr modiffications, and d the clothinng consumerr choosse is put on n their body shape. Thiss process allows customers to get an idea off how their t garmentt selection might m look onn their body shape.. My Virtuaal Model hass been used by man ny apparel coompanies andd consuumers have acctually used their t avatar inn the website w (Istook, 2008; Loker L et al.,, 2008)). Shoppers who w use My Virtual V Modell (MVM M) are 26% more likelyy to purchasee and sppend 13% mo ore than those who do nott use thhis feature on a site (Nantel, 2004). Thiss indicaated that the t 3D virtual modell technoology assists consumers’ confidence c inn their final f purchase decision byy giving them m accesss to an in nteractive viirtual try-onn sessioon. My Virtu ual Model tried t to findd concrrete solution ns for its users andd responnded to the call c by creatinng ‘The Face’’ that allows consumers to be able too superiimpose a pho oto of their own face ontoo their 3D 3 virtual mo odel. The Facce is availablee exclusively at ww ww.hm.com. At this site,, consuumers can perrsonalize theiir avatars andd achievve greater sattisfaction in thheir shoppingg and soocial experien nce (Montréall, 2007).
p witth the IT firm m Landds' End has partnered My Virtual V Modeel Inc. to solvve the problem m of online appaarel shoppinng, with thhe incepption of a realistic virttual model at a Landds' End's direct sales webssite. As Landss’ End introduced new n product strategies s succh as MVM M softw ware, Internett merchandisse saless at landsendd.com progresssed from $661 milliion to $138 million to $2218 million to t $2999 million from m fiscal 19999-2002 (Ives & Piccoli, 2003). Consumers cann see a humaan moddel appears onn the left side and a clothinng catallog appears on the right (seee Figure 7).
Figure 7.. My Virtual Model of Laandsend.com Source:: www.landseend.com uture of Masss Customizaation in 5. Fu App parel T strengthenn competitivveness in thhe To globbal textiles and appaarel industryy, comppanies need to effectiveely build annd sustaain strategies of new n producct deveelopment (NP PD). Currenttly, consumerrs wantt more varietyy and more diirect input intto the options thatt are availabble and masss custoomization cooupling with the innovativve technnologies hass become a key businesss strategy for NPD.. New producct developmennt proccesses deveeloped by researcherrs (Kucczmarski, 19992; Urban & Hauser, 19933; Ulricch & Eppingger, 2004; Crrawford & Di D Beneedetto, 20033; Tyler, 2008) 2 presennt seveeral steps, the t process begins witth perception of market m oppoortunities annd typiccally involves identtification o of custoomers’ needds, design developmennt proccess, productt & markett testing, annd markket launch. They stated that the voice of o
Figure 6. All Shapes and Sizes from F MyVirttualModel.coom Source: www w.myvirtualm model.com In 1998, landsend.com became the firstt websiite to make My M Virtual Moodel softwaree availaable to onlin ne shoppers. Since then,, Articlee Designation: Refereed
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the cuustomer is th he important issue for thee NPD. Also, severral researcheers (Burns & Bryannt, 1997; Leee & Chen, 19999; Fiore ett al., 2001; 2 Andersson-Connell et al., 2002)) concluuded that bod dy scanning and a co-designn process are imp portant issuees for masss custom mization in ap pparel.
r garment is virtuual presentatioon before a real made. V Virtual try-on is available on My Virtuaal Moddel website that t supportss Land’s Endd, Inc., Sears, H&M M, Adidas, Speedo, Levvi Strauuss & Co., Nutri/System, N Lane Bryannt, Kennneth Crosssing Pointe, Cole, WedddingChannell.com, Orvis, Plussize.com m, and others. Although A v virtual try-oon technnologies alloow consumerrs to evaluatte clothhing fit on the t Internet, it is not yeet wideely available and a the technnologies shoulld be deeveloped to innclude the use of 3D virtuaal avataars and garm ments. Also, creating c virtuaal clothhing that draapes and mooves with thhe bodyy like real fabbric has beenn still difficullt. How wever, the sttudies for thhe technologgy usingg Kawabataa test and fabric drappe softw ware has beedd continued).
Intternet shopping has increasedd dramaatically. Ho owever, connsumers aree relucttant to shop fo or clothing onn the Internet. Becauuse they percceive risk to exist due too their inability to try t on garmeents, feel thee fabricc, and read information on care andd contennt labels. Th herefore, 3D virtual v try-onn technoologies for mass m custom mization weree develooped by sev veral companies includingg Brow wzwear, OptiT Tex, Lectra Systems, S andd otherss. They allow w consumers to t provide ann indiviidual’s speciific body measurements m s and other o specificcations such as silhouette,, and em fabricc, color, mbellishments. Consuumers can ev valuate clothiing fit on thee Internnet. In other words, virtuual try-on iss used to allow con nsumers the possibility p too see thhemselves orr a model matching m theirr body measuremen nts and shaape wearingg simulated garmentts online. Thiss type of totall softw ware system in ntegrates garrment design,, surfacce design, fit, f constructtion and 3D D
Articlee Designation: Refereed
Inn the future, the virtual tryy-on usage foor custoomized and personalized p o online products will continue to increase. Coonsumers maay storee their body scan on a sm mart card, as a file on o a portablee flash drive, or in a privatte firm or industryy-wide databbase accesseed throuugh the Internnet. Consumeers will be ablle to store s their own o scans with w their ceell phonnes or i-Pods and then usee the virtual fit f applications on many apparrel web sites.
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Burnns, L. D., & Bryant, N. O. O (1997). Thhe bussiness off fashion: designingg, maanufacturing and a marketinng. New Yorkk: Faiirchild Publiccations.
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Andeerson-Connelll, L. J., Braannon, E. L.,, Ulriich, P. V., Maarshall, T., & Staples, N. J. (19998). Discoverring the proccess of Masss custtomization: A paradigm m shift forr comp mpetitive manufacturing m g: Nationall Reseearch Center Research Briiefs.
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Coopper, R. G. (2001). Winnning at new prooducts (3rd ed.). e New York: Y AddisonnWeesley. Coopper, R.G., & Kleinshmidtt, E. J. (19944). Deeterminants of timeliness in producct devvelopment. Journal of Producct Innnovation Mannagement. 11,, 381-396.
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Fiore,, A. M., Kim m, J., & Lee, H. H H. (2005). Effeect of image interactivity i teechnology onn conssumer respo onses towardd the onlinee retaiiler. Journal of Interactivve Marketing,, 19(33), 38-53.
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Fiore,, A. M., Lee, L S., Kuunz, G., & Cam mpbell, J. R. R (2001). Relationshipp betw ween optimu um stimulatioon level andd willingness to use mass customization c n options. Journal of Fashion Marketing M andd Mannagement, 5(2 2), 99-107.
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Lokeer, S., Ashdoown, S. P., Cowie, L., & Schhoenfelder, K. K A. (20044). Consumeer interest in commercial appplications of o boddy scan dataa. Journal of o Textile annd App pparel Technnology and Managemennt, 4(11), 1-13.
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MIRA ALab. (200 03). Virtual try on. http://www.slais.ubc.ca/COUR RSES/libr50 0/022-03-wt2/www w/L_Kuzminna/try_on.htm
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Ulricch, P.V., Andderson-Conneell, L.J., & Wuu, W.. (2003). Connsumer co-dessign of appareel forr mass custom mization, Jourrnal of fashioon maarketing and Managemennt, 7(4), 39884122.
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Articlee Designation: Refereed
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Urbann, G. L., & Haauser, J. R. (11993). Designn and marketing of o new produucts (2nd ed.). New w York: McG Graw-Hill.
Voliino, P., Coordier, F., & MagnenaatThhalmann, N. (2005). ( From m early virtuaal garrment simulaation to interractive fashioon dessign, Computter-Aided Dessign, 37, 5933– 6088.
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Articlee Designation: Refereed
Zipkkin, P. H. (22001). The limits of masss custoomization. MIT M Sloan Managemennt Reviiew, 42(3), 811-87.
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