2. KUNSTHISTORISCHES MUSEUM. The Museum of Fine Arts is a must-see for every architecture .... Steinhof sits on top of a
VIENNA
FEBRUARY '18 | ARDENTWANDERESS.CO
AN ALTERNATIVE GUIDE TO THE WORLD'S MOST LIVEABLE CITY
CONTENT Vienna's Art Museums THERE IS NO BETTER PLACE FOR ART THAN VIENNA
25 Free Things to Do MY TOP TIPS TO SAVE MONEY WHILE MAKING THE MOST OF EVERYTHING VIENNA HAS TO OFFER
It's Art, Not Vandalism A CONVERSATION ABOUT VIENNA'S STREET ART SCENE
The Best Brunch Spots 8 PLACES YOU CAN VISIT WHEN YOU CRAVE A HOT COFFEE AND AVO TOAST
VIENNA'S ART MUSEUMS Every week, after Uni, I would go on a walk around the Belvedere Garden, pop into the museum, stare in awe at this stunning painting, and then watch the sunset from the stairs of the palace. Vienna has more art museums than any other central European city and houses world-renowned pieces by Klimt, Schiele, Bruegel, etc. This guide will take you to Vienna's most important art museums, tell you when to go, and what you'll get to see there.
2. KUNSTHISTORISCHES MUSEUM The Museum of Fine Arts is a must-see for every architecture and art lover. Designed by Gottfried Semper and Karl Freiherr von Hasenaue and opened in 1891, the museum was built to host the Habsburg family's valuable art collection. Notable artists you will find there include Rubens, Bruegel, and Dürer. It is open every day from 10am-6pm. The admission is 20,00€ per person. Get there via subway U3 (Station: Volkstheater).
1. THE BELVEDERE MUSEUM
3. THE LEOPOLD MUSEUM
The Belvedere Museum features a stunning collection of pieces from the Baroque era up to the post-war years and contemporary art. Some of its most famous paintings include pieces by Klimt, Schiele, Kokoschka, and Boeckl, which you can visit every day from 8am-6pm.
Right across the street is the famous Leopold Museum, containing the world's largest Schiele collection. The museum's 5,000 pieces were collected by Elisabeth and Rudolf Leopold (hence its name). The museum frequently hosts contemporary art exhibitions and is open every day except Tuesday from 10am-6pm.
The admission is 15,00€ for adults and 12,50€ for students. Get there with the Straßenbahn D (Station: Schloß Belvedere).
The admission is 13,00€ for adults and 9,00€ for students. Get there via subway U3 (Station: Volkstheater).
3 | VIENNA GUIDE
I used to live in Wien Margareten, also known as Vienna's 5th district, walking distance from one of the most famous paintings in the world - Gustav Klimt's 'The Kiss'.
4. THE ALBERTINA
19
You may or may not know Albrecht Dürer's famous "Young Hare", which can be seen at the Albertina. The museum features a large collection of drawings and prints from famous artists such as Leonardo da Vinci and Pieter Bruegel. Furthermore, it recently acquired a substantial collection of impressionist paintings (among them a Monet piece) that can be visited every day from 10am-6pm. The admission is 12,90€ for adults and 9,90€ for students. Get there via subway U1, U2, or U4 (Station: Karlsplatz).
5. MUMOK Mumok is short for "MUseum MOderner Kunst" (Museum of Modern Art) and it's - guess what - a museum dedicated to contemporary and modern art works. The collection includes pieces by Andy Warhol, Pablo Picasso, Jasper Johns, and Roy Liechtenstein. Mumok also hosts children's workshops and private tours for schools or larger groups. It is open every day (except Monday) from 10am-7pm. On Mondays it's open from 2pm-7pm. The admission is 12,00€ for adults and 8,00€ for students. Get there via subway U3 (Station: Volkstheater).
6. THE SECESSION The "Wiener Secessionsgebäude" was built in 1897 by Joseph Maria Olbrich as an exhibition hall for the famous Vienna Secession, an art movement led by Gustav Klimt, Koloman Moser, and Otto Wagner. Today, it is an art museum housing Klimt's famous "Beethoven Frieze" from the 1902 Beethoven exhibition, among other famous Jugendstil works. The admission is 9,50€ for adults and 6,00€ for students. Get there via subway U1, U2, U4 (Station: Karlsplatz).
OTHER IMPORTANT MUSEUMS Kunsthalle (8€ adults, 2€ students / U3 Volkstheater)
MAK (12€ adults, 9€ students / U3 Stubentor) Kunsthaus (12€ adults, 10€ students / 1, O Radetzkyplatz)
4 | VIENNA GUIDE
21er Haus (8€ adults, 6€ students / D, 18 Quartier Belvedere)
25 FREE THINGS TO DO Living in Vienna for almost seven years, I have explored everything this gorgeous city has to offer. So, it's about time I share my secret tips and tricks on how to save money as a tourist in Vienna.
5 | VIENNA GUIDE
When I travel, I prefer to spend my precious money on food and drinks, which is why I've become somewhat of an expert for budget travel and finding free things to do in the cities I visit.
1
STADTPARK
4
MAK
2
GLORIETTE
5
NASCHMARKT
3
DONAUKANAL
6
AM HIMMEL
Proudly standing atop the Schönbrunn Gardens, the Gloriette offers stunning views over the whole city. Make sure to bring comfy shoes, it is a little hike to get to the top.
A popular destination for Vienna's younger population, the former arm of the Danube is now a place to mingle with locals and party until the sun comes up.
Fun Fact: The Museum of Applied Arts is the first museum in the world to have purchased art using Bitcoin. The admission is free on Tuesdays from 6-10pm.
Vienna's most popular food market spans over 1.5 km and offers culinary goods from around the world as well as many cute cafés and bars.
Vienna's very own piece of heaven is the perfect place to spend a relaxed afternoon soaking up some sunshine and finding your soul tree at the "Lebensbaumkreis".
6 | VIENNA GUIDE
A picturesque park in central Vienna that is exceptionally beautiful in spring. Every May, the park hosts the "Genussfestival", a showcase of Austria's culinary delights.
19
The gardens behind Vienna's famous Schönbrunn castle shine in bright autumn colours throughout the month of October, but are a popular destination - for visitors and locals alike - all year long.
7 | VIENNA GUIDE
7
SCHÖNBRUNN
8
STEINHOFKIRCHE
Designed by Otto Wagner, the Kirche am Steinhof sits on top of a former Psychiatric Hospital. It is considered one of the most important Art Nouveau churches in the world and is definitely one of Vienna's most iconic spots.
9 ZENTRALFRIEDHOF
Especially in October and November, the Vienna Central Cemetery invites for long strolls among the graves (yes, I know how that sounds, but it's great! Trust me!)
The whole city is full of public bookshelves, in which you can find a range of books from classics to non-fiction for free. Check out http://offener-buecherschrank.at/ for their locations!
11
SCI-FI IM PARK
12
WALKING TOUR
13
Every summer, Vienna's 5th district hosts free sci-fi movie nights at the Bruno Kreisky Park. Head to their website for more infos: http://sciencefictionimpark.at/
Good Vienna Tours offer free walking tours every day at 10:00am and 2:00pm. Meet your tour guide in front of the Albertina museum.
KÄRNTNERSTRASSE
Vienna's most famous shopping street connects two of the city's main sights - the Vienna State Opera and the Stephansdom and should be on every visitor's bucket list.
8 | VIENNA GUIDE
10
FREE BOOKS
19
With almost 12,000 types of plants from six continents, the Vienna Botanical Garden provides a green oasis for those who want to escape the city buzz.
9 | VIENNA GUIDE
14 BOTANICAL GARDEN
15 MUSEUMSQUARTIER 18 WATCH TATORT
Tatort, an Austrian detective show, has become a Viennese institution. Every Sunday at 8:15pm, the Schikaneder cinema screens a new episode for free.
16
FLEA MARKETS
Usually loud and chaotic, Vienna's many flea markets offer everything from toys and clothes to old jewellery. Naschmarkt hosts a flea market every Saturday!
17 KAHLENBERG
Kahlenberg is a popular hiking destination with stunning views over the city and the Danube river, particularly on sunny summer days. Just follow the City Hiking Trail 1 to get to the mountaintop.
19
LAINZ
The Lainzer Tiergarten is wildlife preserve and hiking area that spans over 24.50 sq. km. You even get to see wild boars sometimes.
20 GO SWIMMING
The city can get pretty hot during the summer, which is why locals usually choose to hang out by the river. Take the U2 to Alte Donau and don't forget to pack your bathing suit!
10 | VIENNA GUIDE
While during the day, the Museumsquartier is mostly frequented by families and art lovers, at night it turns into an outdoor bar, where Vienna's millennials drink & party.
21
WILHELMINENBERG Wilhelminenberg is the perfect place to wind down after a hike. Bring some food and have a picnic in the romantic garden of Villa Aurora. However, don't leave your trash. My friends and I regularly clean up plastic bottles and soda cans from the garden.
22 MUSEUM OPENINGS If you're a member of Vienna's many art museums, you sometimes get invited to exhibition openings. It's a great way to see art and drink wine for free.
23
GALLERIE OSTLICHT
24
TÜRKENSCHANZPARK
25
MIRROR ART
Located in the former Ankerbrot factory, the gallery houses temporary photo exhibitions and a huge, publicly accessible library of more than 20,000 books and magazines.
Undoubtedly my favourite park in Vienna. Located in the 18th district, close to the BOKU, it's the perfect place to go on a short walk, or soak up the sun.
11 | VIENNA GUIDE
In the little alleyway behind the Schlossquadrat in Vienna's 5th district, there's a cute little hall of mirrors that make you look really tall, or super tiny. If you're in the area and need a good laugh, go there and take a #mirrorselfie
IT'S ART, NOT VANDALISM
I spoke to Wolfgang Breyscha, street art expert and ambassador of Instagramers Austria, about art as a form of rebellion, Vienna's role in the international street art scene, and the best ways to support a street artist.
12 | VIENNA GUIDE
VIENNA'S STREET ART SCENE
Compared to other cities in Austria, Vienna is definitely a creative hotspot. Comparing it to international cities, however, is difficult. Vienna has a substantial number of legal (as well as illegal) spots, but what we don't have are those large-scale paintings that are usually created during street art festivals. Apart from "Calle Libre" and some smaller projects, those types of urban interventions are not very prominent in Vienna. However, even though it's rather small, Vienna’s street art scene should not be underestimated; artists are invited for commissioned pieces on a regular basis. New York experienced a huge graffiti-boom in the 1980s. Is the street art movement in Vienna still in its baby shoes? Do you remember when the first murals showed up around the city? Street art in Vienna has definitely existed for a while, but has started to catch the public’s attention around the turn of the century. Before that, there was little to no documentation of anything other than bathroom graffiti. I have started delving into the topic around 2008. You really cannot compare Vienna to London or New York, cities where the social inequalities and sometimes horrible living conditions have sparked a political movement. We don’t have that here. Nychos is by far the most famous Austrian street artist. What are some other well-known names in and around Vienna? There are dozens of local and international artists that put
EVEN THOUGH IT'S RATHER SMALL, VIENNA'S STREET ART SCENE SHOULD NOT BE UNDERSTIMATED. their stamp on the city and it would be unfair to only name a few. Especially since I know a lot of people from the local scene and then a lot of others I don’t. I don’t want to only point out the people I know and like, but leave out the others. Also, there's that thing with fame; just because someone is popular in Vienna, doesn’t necessarily mean they are wellknown outside the city too. Unfortunately, many local artists don't have a big reach. How do you feel about graffiti artists such as Puber, who put more emphasis on the quantity than the quality of their work? We shouldn't only mention Puber, but Viennese institutions such as ‘Daten’, ‘TD2F’, ‘Morgen mach ich blau’, ‘Unterhosen Kiwi’, or the international ‘the birds the birds’, etc. Their motto is ‘all city’, to be visible everywhere. I don’t think it’s necessarily a matter of quality vs. quantity, even Puber has produced a lot of high quality pieces, sometimes even on legal walls. Obviously, a lot of his stuff can be considered vandalism. Pretty much everyone with more than 5 minutes of
13 | VIENNA GUIDE
How big is Vienna's street art scene compared to other cities?
19
practice can produce a Puber tag. However, not all tags are that basic. Some artists spend hours coming up with a concept and perfecting their tags. To me, a skillfully created tag is a lot more interesting than a plain, grey wall, or even a commissioned piece. Do you believe that spraying on walls is always some form of rebellion? Street art and graffiti in particular are often a way to express social inequalities. Similar to breakdance and hip hop, graffiti writing originated in poor urban neighbourhoods. Over the years, it has gained in popularity and has now arrived at the center of mainstream culture. There are very few ads and billboards that don’t use some form of graffiti style in their imagery and both street art and graffiti have made it into established art museums. In its origins, however, street art was not only rebellion, it was also a symbol of ‘bravery’ and ‘togetherness’. (“No one messes with our crew!”) Where do you draw the line between vandalism and art? That's easy. Everything that is not commissioned or painted on legal walls is illegal and therefore considered vandalism. It can still be art, but that has nothing to do with its environment or legal status.
Image copyright: Fabian Pfeifhofer
"Those who wander with open eyes through the city, might explore art everywhere!“ Wolfgang Breyscha was born in Vienna in 1963. He's a widowed father of two boys. Wolfgang started his main hobby photography in the early 1980s. Today, he mostly takes pictures of graffiti and street art and shares them on his Instagram @famiglia_vienna. He's the art and streetart ambassador of Instagramers Austria.
Do you know how many walls are legal in Vienna and how many pieces have been legally created by the individual artists? Wienerwand.at has a list of legal walls in Vienna. There are four pieces at the ‘Museumsquartier’ and ‘Westbahnstraße’ (curated by the Jan Arnold Gallery), approximately 20-25 walls that have been painted during the three ‘Calle Libre’ events, three arches at U6 Gumpendorferstraße that were commissioned by the ‘ion.art’ project, up to 6 walls that were curated by the former ‘Inoperable Gallery’ (one of them is Nychos’ polar bear), about 10 garages, around 25 pieces that were curated by the Hilger Gallery through their project ‘Cash, Cans & Candy’, as well as approximately 20 other walls that are spread out throughout the city and have different stories of origin. The permissions are granted by the city, the districts, private sponsors, or local residents.
Yes, it is not only possible to buy prints or original pieces, you can invite artists to events, sponsor them, host graffiti workshops, or pay for commissioned works in your house, office, garage, or hotel.
14 | VIENNA GUIDE
Is there a way people can support their favourite street artists? I know that more established artists sell prints online, but apart from that …?
THE BEST BRUNCH SPOTS in Vienna
Ulrich
oben
Hipster hotspot with outdoor seating.
Sunday brunch, wonderful view.
St. Ulrichsplatz 1, 1070 Wien
[email protected] +43 1 961 27 82
Urban Loritzplatz 2A, 1070 Wien
[email protected] +43 1 522 72 68
7stern
blueorange
Hosts concerts and events, caters for vegans.
Bagels, bagels, bagels.
Siebensterngasse 31, 1070 Wien
[email protected] +43 699 125 36 157
Margaretenstraße 9, 1040 Wien n/a +43 1 581 17 70
Joseph
Regional, and seasonal food. Cozy atmosphere.
Vienna's No. 1 bread manufacturer.
Payergasse 12/4, 1160 Wien n/a +43 678 122 94 64
Landstraßer Hauptstraße 4, 1030 Wien
[email protected] n/a
Das Augustin
Weltcafé
Weekend brunch, good for drinks too.
A classic among Vienna's students.
Märzstraße 76, 1150 Wien
[email protected] +43 1 982 13 64
Schwarzspanierstraße 15, 1090 Wien
[email protected] +43 1 405 37 41
16 | VIENNA GUIDE
Frida
LET'S STAY IN TOUCH
ARDENTWANDERESS.CO
