BUIlD a CaNOE

BUILD A CANOE

Build a canoe - Introduction and design The fabric covered canoe is a classic design used by many Scouts when building a canoe. The design is relatively simple and little technical knowledge is needed to complete the project. It also requires very little space with a Scout hall or garage being sufficient. The project could be used towards the Queen’s Scout Award and when finished could be used on an expedition, if deemed suitable.

Coaming

Gunwale Frame Bottom Boards

Stringers Fabric Skin

Hog

CANOE SECTIONS

FABRIC CANOE DETAILS

A

Fabric over end

B

Build a canoe - Construction method Modern canoes are not built by traditional boat building methods of clinker or carvel planking. The methods used are simpler, requiring less skill and fewer tools.Coaming Brass strip

C

D

Frames and end posts are made from marine plywood. These are mounted on a central hog, and the other lengthwise parts added to make a framework of widely-spaced laths. The hull is made by stretching plastic Chines Endfabric cap or canvas over the framework and tacking on. The desk is made in the same way and external keel E F and rubbing strips complete the job. Brass strip Section Canoe building materials

Point of cockpit

F

Timber The most common boat building wood is mahogany. This has limited uses in canoe construction. Sitka spruce is a very light and strong straight-grained wood, used for the best canoes. Parana pine is much cheaper, but rather heavier wood, used as an alternative to spruce. For bent parts, ash is the only suitable British wood. Many light hardwoods collectively described as Empire hardwoods, are suitable for canoe building. What is needed is a light wood, with a reasonably straight grain and freedom from large knots. Foredeck long and of thin section, and thePly advice SkinMost lap of the parts of a canoe areStringer frameof a local timber merchant may on end have to be taken. Timber in a canoe is not subject to the hard use of larger craft which remain afloat and most woods can be used if necessary. Plywood British plywood intended for boat building is marked BSS 1088. This is a British Standard specification indicating that that the veneers are up to a certain standard and the bonding is waterproof. ‘Exterior’ grade plywood is also bonded with waterproof glue. This can be used for parts not directly in contact with

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Str Fabric Skin

Hog

C

FABRIC CANOE DETAILS Fabric over end

Brass strip

Coaming

End cap

Brass strip

Skin lap on end

Section

Foredeck Stringer

Point of cockpit

Ply frame

water if BSS 1088 plywood is unavailable. Most marine plywood is made from mahogany or other wood of similar type. Douglas fir is also used and is lighter. Plywood is sold in metric and English measure. Most canoe frames are 9mm or 3/8in. Skins may be 3mm or 4mm. Standard sheets are 8ft x 4ft. It is much cheaper to buy complete sheets than to buy by the square foot. A complete sheet is enough for the frames of three average canoes. Glue Synthetic resin glue is fully waterproof. There are many makes supplied to industry, but there are two available in small quantities retail. ‘Aerolite 306’ and ‘Cascamite Oneshot’. Do not ask for marine glue – this is a caulking compound. Follow the maker’s instructions carefully. The glues do not set properly in low temperatures, but correctly applied the result is very strong and waterproof. Fabric skin material Canoes have been covered with a variety of fabrics. At one time 15oz proofed canvas (about bell tent grade) was used and painted after fitting. Today the most popular material is fabric coated both or one side with PVC plastic. Coating both sides is preferable as it keep the inside of the canoe much cleaner. Covering is eased, in either material, if the room is warm. Decking may be the same or a lighter grade. Coloured sail cloth is popular, as it is proofed and needs no painting. Pain and varnish Good household paints are suitable for the woodwork or canvas of canoes. PVC fabrics do not require painting. Varnish is cheaper than paint and looks smarter on frameworks and coamings. Use only synthetic marine varnish – household varnishes do not stand up to wet conditions.

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Keel

Countersunk Clearance Hole

A tenon saw or hand saw with fine teeth (14 or 16 per inch) will do all the ordinary sawing. One chisel of about 1in width and preferably beveledged has occasional uses. A sharp knife is needed for trimming fabric. Large scissors are useful.

Bilge Keels

All measuring and marking out can be with a 1ft or 2ft rule, an extending rule and by a 12in try square. A piece of string as long as the canoe is needed for lining up.

Rubbing Strip

Bottom Boards Coaming

In most canoes there a large number of screws to be driven in. A wheel brace with twist drills to suit the screws is usual, although an electric drill is quicker. Have spares of the small drills. To countersink the holes to take the screw heads, a carpenter’s brace and countersink-bit is better than a bit in the wheelbrace or electric drill. For the small holes needed for the screws, a small bradawl is adequate.

Starboard Side Deck Port

Section at side of Fabric Canoe Thwart

Screws may be filed or ground to fit. Pump-action screwdrivers speed the work, but a number of plain screwdrivers bought for the same price as the one pump screwdriver are more use in a Troop project. Foredeck

Bow

Cockpit

Foreward

After Deck

Aft

Coaming

Gunwale

Keel

Tacks are driven in with a light hamper (40z or 60z). In many places they can be squeezed in with a large pair of pliers. Pliers will also serve instead if pincers for withdrawing nails.

Stern

A few cramps (about 6in size) are useful although not essential. Similarly, a use can be found for many other tools if they are available. Metal parts will probably be bought ready-made but if they have to be made the tools most likely to be needed are a hacksaw, centre punch, several files and a metalworking vice. Synthetic resin glue must not be put into metal containers.

Several jam jars will be useful. Application can be made with sticks. Paint and varnish will need the usual brushes. Brushes are expensive things – have a suitable cleaner available after a working session. An oilstone and can of oil are needed to keep edge tools sharp. Glasspaper (M2 or S2 grade) will provide a good finish.

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