CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION, OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS AND ...

Installation Instructions – 273WC

CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION, OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS AND WARRANTY For more information, see www.cranecams.com READ CAREFULLY AND COMPLETELY BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO INSTALL THIS CAMSHAFT WARNING: NEW LIFTERS MUST BE INSTALLED WITH YOUR NEW CAMSHAFT.

The camshaft and lifters/followers must be pre-lubricated before installation. Use Crane Cams Assembly Lube, part number 99002-1, and Crane Cams Super-Lube, part number 99003-1

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS

These instructions are designed to give some basic information and things that you need to be aware of when attempting to install a camshaft in many overhead camshaft (OHC) and pushrod engines. For specific information and details on each individual engine and car combination, we recommend purchasing an owners repair manual, i.e., Haynes, Motor, Chilton, or the factory service manual. We recommend reading all of the general instructions, and depending on the type of engine, OHC or pushrod, read all available information pertaining to your type engine.

CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS AND PUSHRODS

Some OHC and pushrod engines like the Toyota 20-22R, Mazda (Ford Courier), and MG have their head bolts also holding down the rocker arm assembly. This means that the head bolts must be removed in order to access the valve train and remove the cam. Before loosening the head bolts, let the engine stand overnight. The cylinder head can easily warp if bolts are removed when the engine is hot or even warm. If you are working on an OHC engine that already has a warped head and you are going to try and get its surfaced, keep in mind that if the head surface is warped the cam bearing bores must also be warped, and in some cases this cannot be repaired. When removing the head bolts, loosen from the outside in. Loosen in small increments. When re-torquing, tighten from the inside out in small increments. The torque sequence and recommended specs are found in your repair manual.

CAMSHAFT END PLAY

Camshaft end play should be checked when the cam is in place and the bearings and/or caps are in place and torqued to factory specs (some engines don’t have bearings or caps and the cam may slide through the cam journals). In order to get a correct end play reading with either a dial indicator or feeler gauge, all tension on the valves should be released i.e., rocker followers off, valve adjustment backed off out of the way or bucket followers depressed. This can be made easier by turning the cam so that the least amount of valves would be open. It is also suggested to check end play on the cam you are removing. This will give you an indication of any possible problem with a worn thrust bearing plate or whatever mechanism in your engine, besides the cam, controls end play.

REMOVAL OF DISTRIBUTOR, SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES

In many cases the distributor will need to be removed, and in all cases the spark plugs should be removed. If your spark plug wires are not numbered it is recommended that you mark them before removing. It is recommended especially on aluminum heads that the spark plugs be removed only when the engine is cold. Because of the expansion rate of aluminum you may pull all the threads out with the plug if you try to remove it when the engine is hot or warm. It is also recommended to use some kind of anti-seize compound (a touch of moly lube also works well) on spark plug threads upon installation. Turn the engine to TDC compression (#1 cylinder firing) and mark the relationship between the distributor cap, rotor and distributor body. Also mark the position of the distributor in the block or head. In most cases the distributor can be reinstalled back in the same place with the engine at TDC #1 cylinder compression stroke, and the ignition timing will be within one or two degrees. Even so, it is always best to static time the engine to make sure the distributor is in correctly so the engine can fire immediately for break-in.

TORQUE ALL BOLTS

It is important to torque all bolts. Most of the repair manuals will have the torque specs for most of the bolts in the torque specs section or somewhere in the text. Special care must be taken when tightening bolts into the aluminum threads common with many engines today. It may only take 5 or 6 foot pounds of torque over specs to pull the threads out and then you are in trouble. That is why we can’t stress enough to torque all the bolts to proper torque specs and follow the proper sequence.

CHECK ENGINE TUNE-UP SPECS BEFORE DISASSEMBLING ENGINE

Whenever possible, we recommend establishing a good baseline on your vehicle before you change your cam. Make sure you know that the carburetor or fuel injection is adjusted and in good working order. The spark plugs should be good and gapped correctly. Also, your ignition points and condensor, or electronic pick-up, cap, rotor and wires are all in good condition, and know where your initial ignition timing is set. This information will give you a starting point to go from when turning your engine with the new cam installed. As a general rule, when installing a cam with more duration and lift than the stock cam, you may be able to increase ignition timing 2 to 4 degrees. In some cases, richen the carburetor slightly to realize the full potential of the cam.

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BREAK-IN PROCDURE AND LUBRICANTS

Due to the EPA’s mandate for zinc removal from most motor oils, proper flat tappet camshaft break-in procedure is more critical than ever before. This is true for both hydraulic and mechanical flat tappet camshafts. As a point of interest, the most critical time in the life of a flat tappet camshaft is the first 20 minutes of “break-in” during which the bottoms of the tappets “mate-in” with the cam lobes. There are some oils with additive packages that are better for camshaft “break-in”. These include, but are not limited to: (Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs racing) or a “race only” petroleum- based oil and include Crane Cams Part # 99003-1 Super Lube” additive. Do not use API rated “SL” or “SM” oil. We recommend applying Crane Assembly Lube, part number 99002-1, to the cam lobe and the follower, pad, disc, or lifter face that contacts the cam lobe. For roller follower applications, a considerable progress has recently been made in the area of synthetic motor oils. However, we have found that their use with the increased unit loadings found in typical high performance camshaft and valve train component systems may result in the failure of these components. We do not recommend using these synthetic oils in such applications. On some engines, access to the engine’s oil pump in order to be able to use it to prime the oil system may be next to impossible. As an alternative, there are aerosols and other pressurized pre-oiling kits available. This type of kit usually calls for removing the oil pressure line, or sending switch, and priming the engine through that port, then reinstalling the oil sending switch or line. Before initial start-up, verify that crankcase oil level is correct, oil filter is full and oiling system is primed, carburetor bowl is full or injector is primed, gas tank has enough fuel for at least 30 minutes running, and the distributor timing is pre-set for immediate start-up. Also, that the valves are adjusted and/or lifter preload set. The object is to start the engine as soon as possible upon turning the key. If the engine has to crank and crank before initial start-up, it may cause a wear problem. IMPORTANT! When the engine fires, immediately bring the RPM up to 1500, and if possible, set the idle speed screw at that RPM. Don’t allow the engine to run at less than 1500 RPM during the first half-hour of operation. Slow engine speeds invite premature cam and lifter wear and may cause their ultimate failure. Change RPM frequently to direct oil splash to different areas of the camshaft. Vehicle may also be driven during break-in period. After the first hour or 100 miles of operation, change the oil and filter and re-adjust the valves (if mechanical lifters). Adjust them while the engine is warm. Let the engine cool, and then drain the crankcase and properly dispose of the oil and oil filter. Refill the crankcase with a premium petroleumbased oil, not a synthetic oil. At this point the initial “break-in” is complete. You can drive the vehicle in your normal manner. We recommend changing the oil and filter after 500 miles. You might want to put another 5000 miles on the cam before switching to a synthetic, if that is your preference.

VALVE SPRINGS AND CYLINDER HEAD MODIFICATIONS

The majority of cams available that are used for street performance applications should work with the OEM valve springs. Crane has performance replacement springs that will fit on your head without machining for most applications. Whatever spring you choose to use must have at least factory seat pressure. Be sure that the spring will travel at least .040” more than the net valve lift of the cam that you are using. In some cases cylinder head machining may be necessary to accept oversize valve springs.

CAM TIMING MARKS AND CAM INSTALLATIONS (OHC)

Cam timing marks on OHC engines vary from engine to engine. On most OHC engines it may not be necessary to remove the front timing cover when changing cams. Therefore, you will only be able to see the timing mark on the cam gear or sprocket. On most chain drive applications the manufacturer requires the pip mark on the cam gear to be aligned with a bright link in the chain. On engines like the Toyota 20 22R, Mazda, and OHC VW, etc., where the cam is held in place with bolt down cam bearing caps, the timing gear does not need to be removed from the chain. Remove the retaining bolt or nut and remove the gear (with chain) from the cam and support them with a bungee cord or wire from the hood, or some other means to keep the chain from dropping down and falling off the bottom of the crank sprocket. This will keep the chain and sprockets in correct timing. The cam can then be lifted up and out of the engine. On OHC engines like the L series Datsun, Ford 2.0L and 2.3L, etc., where the cam must slide through the cam bearing bores, the cam sprocket must be removed from the chain, or belt, in order to slide the cam through the cam bearing bores and out the front. In this application, the top end of the chain will need to be tied up to prevent it from falling down off of the crank gear. On some engines that have a belt driven cam sprocket, it is usually recommended to move the timing belt away (check your manual for details). It may be helpful on engines that require the cam gear to be removed to mark the relationship between the gear and chain with a small amount of paint. This will insure that you get the cam gear and chain back in the correct location. The OHC VW engine (this head is also used on some front wheel drive Chrysler Corp. cars) uses a direct acting type valve train. This means that the cam rides directly on the valve using a cup and lash adjuster shims. Since this cylinder head has a cam that bolts down with caps and can be lifted straight up and out of the cam saddle, the lobe size will increase as cam lift increases. This enables us to maintain stock base circle diameter, so that adjustment won’t be a big problem. However, the cylinder head may need to be ground away in some places to clear the cam lobes. With proper protection this operation can be done without removing the head. Special care must be taken not to get metal filings in the engine.

DEGREEING CAMS (OHC)

When checking cam timing on overhead cam engines that use a rocker follower type of valve train, the timing figures must be checked at the valve using zero lash. With the difference between “designed” and “as made” rocker arm ratios and/or the possibility of the rocker followers on the non-shaft type valve train like 2000 and 2300 Ford, Datsun L series and Chrysler 2.2L & 2.5L I-4 engines being subject to factory tolerances, this may cause the angle of contact between the cam and rocker follower to change. These things can cause the timing figures you get with your combination to differ from those on the cam specification card. This is beyond anyone’s control. If this happens in your application, it will be necessary to split the difference between the figures you get and the figures on the cam spec card. As an example: If the opening and closing figures are larger than the cam spec card, say 4° total, you would need to add 2° to the opening figure on the spec card and 2° to the closing figure on the spec card (splitting the difference). This situation is normal with all OHC engines 3/10

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that use a rocker arm or follower. This would not include OHC engines like VW OHC 4 cylinder, or Vega OHC 4 cylinder that are measured at the valve with zero lash. Since no rocker arm is used with this type it is called direct acting. Engines like the Ford 1.6L-1.9L CVH OHC, have a rocker arm but it also has a lifter in the head, and would be degreed like a pushrod engine at the lifter, not the valve. Some engines, like the Datsun L series, have more than one dowel pin hole in the cam sprocket. Instructions in your repair manual will tell you that these extra holes are to make up for some chain stretch, which would normally retard the cam. On some engines, because of inaccessibility to mount the degree wheel on the crank, it would be okay just to check the intake opening at .050”. In most cases this figure is very close to top dead center. Use the ignition timing pointer and the marks on the pulley or balancer. Check positive TDC with a piston stop to make sure that your TDC is correct. You can measure the circumference of your pulley, or balancer, in inches and divide by 360. Your answer will tell you how many degrees per inch your pulley, or balancer, has.

TIMING CHAIN AND BELT TENSION OR ADJUSTMENT ON OHC ENGINES

Because of the distance between the cam sprocket and the crank sprocket on OHC engines, there must be a means of compensating for wear or stretch. This is generally done by a spring loaded (or sometimes oil pressure fed) tensioner, or in some engines an adjustable idler. The range of adjustment is not unlimited. Each manufacturer should have a listing of the maximum stretch allowable. Keeping in mind that the effect of the chain stretching will retard the cam, and because of the length of the chain, 4°-8° retard is not uncommon. Engines with belt drive i.e., VW OHC, Ford 2.0L and 2.3L, Vega, etc. use an idler. This also must be removed before the valve train is removed. In most cases where a chain tensioner is used, some means of holding the tensioner in a position of the least tension (to lessen the tension on the chain) before the sprocket is removed is recommended. There are different ways of doing this. As an example, the Datsun L series recommends fabricating a wooden wedge and forcing it down below the cam gear and the chain, thus holding back the tensioner. Some engines, like the Mazda B1600 and Courier have a locking mechanism on the tensioner that prevents it from being depressed without removing it, and it will be required to remove the tensioner before any of the valve train is removed, and then reinstalled after all valve train is in place and torqued. On re-assembly, no tension should be applied to the chain until all valve train is in place and torqued to factory specs.

VALVE ADJUSTMENT, OHC ENGINES

On all OHC engines, the rocker arm, follower or wafer must be replaced when installing a new cam. The surface that contacts the cam has a wear pattern mated to the existing cam and will not be compatible with the new cam. The new rocker arm, follower or wafer will break in to the new cam and be compatible with it. On engines that have shaft mounted rocker arms, i.e., Toyota 20 and 22R, Mazda, etc., check the condition of the shaft. If excessive wear is evident (usually on the underside of the shaft); the shaft will also need to be replaced. Set the valve lash on most OHC engines with the correct size feeler gauge, between the valve stem tip and the rocker arm and/or adjuster. Some exceptions to this would be the Datsun L series engine and the Ford 2.0L and 2.3L mechanical OHC 4 cylinder, where the feeler gauge will go between the cam lobe and follower pad. This information should be indicated on your cam spec card that comes with the cam. Check with your manual for the recommended procedure. As for the sequence of adjustment, the contact between the lobe and the follower is very easy to see and the adjustment should be made when the follower is at the heel (lowest portion) of the cam. The amount of valve clearance will be noted on your cam spec card. Most engines will show a hot setting for the most accurate measurement. In these applications, we recommend that when setting the valves cold, on first time assembly for start-up and break-in, tighten the setting by .002”, and then after break-in, readjust while hot to the cam card specs. Lash on mechanical cams will need to be checked periodically according to your owner’s manual. Because of inaccessibility to valve adjustment, some engines are designed to use a cold setting, i.e., VW OHC 4 cylinder, Porsche 911, and Vega etc. A few engines are equipped with hydraulic adjusters, i.e., Ford 2.3L, Ford 1.6 SOHC, Chrysler 2.2L. In these instances the manufacturer recommends that you check the plunger depression (lifter preload). This is done with the cam and valve train in place and torqued to proper specifications. Position the camshaft so that the base circle of the lobe is facing the cam follower of the valve to be checked. Slowly apply pressure to the cam follower (with the proper valve lash adjusted) until the lash adjuster is completely collapsed. If the hydraulic adjuster has oil in it, it may take 2-3 minutes to bleed off. Hold the follower in this position and insert the proper thickness feeler gauge between the base circle of the cam lobe and the follower. The acceptable range is: Ford 2.3L, .035” to .055”, Chrysler 2.2L and 2.5L, .024” to .060”. For any other hydraulic adjuster engines, check the manual for specs.

TIMING MARKS ON OHV (PUSHROD) AND CAM INSTALLATIONS

The correct timing mark location on the cam gear and crank gear should be noted in your engine’s manual. In most applications, the proper alignment of the cam gear pip mark will be at 6:00 and the crank gear pip mark will be at 12:00 for proper alignment for correct cam phasing with the crank. On OHV engines, the timing chain or gear cover must be removed to access the cam and timing gears and/or chain. When removing and installing the cam in most of these engines, the lifters must be removed before the cam can be removed. Some engines use mushroom lifters like the Datsun A series, Ford 1600, etc. Usually the Datsun A and 1600 Ford engines must be removed from the car, as the engine must be turned upside down so the lifters won’t interfere with the removal of the cam. The lifters can then be removed from the crankcase after the cam is removed.

CHECKING CAM TIMING (DEGREEING IN THE CAM) ON OHV ENGINES

All our cams are ground from the camshaft dowel pin, or keyway, for best accuracy and should not need to be degreed in. However, we have no control over gear and/or chain alignment, markings, or over crankshaft keyway indexing. This is why we recommend that you check cam timing to make sure that the opening and closing events of the cam in your engine are according to the cam timing figures at .050” lift on your cam spec card. The equipment needed for this purpose is: 1 A dial indicator and stand set up on the engine, enabling you to measure lifter or pushrod movement on #1 intake with the rocker arm removed. 2 A degree wheel attached to the crank snout with a pointer bolted to the block or head. 3 A piston stop to check positive top dead center, so you can properly align the degree wheel and pointer. 3/10

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To find positive top dead center, insert a piston stop bolt in the number one spark plug hole far enough to stop the piston just before top dead center. Rotate the engine both clockwise and counterclockwise until the piston comes against the stop. Move the timing pointer so it will be pointing at the same degrees before and after top dead center each time the piston comes against the stop. Remove the piston stop. Now preload and zero the dial indicator on the lifter or pushrod when the lifter is on the base circle of the cam (zero lift). Turn the engine a couple of times to make sure the dial indicator returns back to zero. Turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation while watching the dial indicator. When the dial indicator moves up .050”, stop turning the engine. At this time the timing pointer should be aligned with the degree wheel, indicating intake opening at .050” cam lift on your cam spec card, plus or minus one degree. That is all you need to do to check cam timing. If you would like to check all of the other figures, you can, but it is not necessary.

VALVE ADJUSTMENT, PUSHROD TYPE, (OVERHEAD VALVE OHV) ENGINES

Many of the engines that are covered by these instructions have a shaft mounted, adjustable rocker arm valve train, and have mechanical tappets. We recommend backing off all the adjusters all the way before installing the rocker assembly. Once the assembly is in place and torqued, then adjust one cylinder at a time. Make sure the pushrod is in the lifter and the rocker arm correctly, and then run down the adjusters by hand to take up the slack. Check and take up slack in other rocker arms during the adjustment procedure that may have had their pushrods up, preventing you from taking up the slack upon initial installation. The recommended procedure is to turn the engine always in the normal direction of rotation until the exhaust pushrod starts to move up on #1 cylinder. At this time adjust the #1 intake rocker arm to the recommended valve lash. Now turn the engine until the intake pushrod on #1 cylinder comes up and then is almost back down (valve almost closed), and adjust the #1 exhaust valve to the recommended lash. Most engines will have a hot valve lash setting, while exceptions are VW and Porsche. When setting initial valve lash on cold engines with an iron head and block, set intake lash .001” and exhaust .002” looser than the recommended hot lash specs. We recommend setting the hot lash after the break-in period and again during regular maintenance intervals according to the owner’s manual. Some engines use hydraulic lifters and are usually non-adjustable. Follow the same sequence of adjustment, as above, but instead of lash you must check the lifter preload. This is the distance that the pushrod has depressed the pushrod seat into the lifter, when the lifter is on the heel of the cam and the valve is closed. This should be .020” minimum and .060” maximum. Whenever possible, lifter preload should be checked with the intake manifold, or access cover, off. This will give you a better look at what the lifter is doing during the procedure. The most accurate method of checking lifter preload is by use of a dial indicator, but if you don’t have a dial indicator, or don’t know how to use one, there are other ways of checking lifter preload i.e., engines like the Rover V-8 which has a non-adjustable shaft mounted rocker arm arrangement. Follow instructions in your specific repair manual and torque all bolts and follow the sequence of adjustment as outlined previously. When you reach a position of adjustment (lifter on the base circle of the camshaft) you will now check lifter preload. Allow time for the lifter to bleed off if it had oil in it (generally not more than 1 or 2 minutes). Use the valve cover gasket surface of the head as a guide. Scribe a line on the pushrod with a scribe, steel ruler or pencil. Make sure you lay your marking implement flat on the reference surface because you will need to make two marks using the same surface. Unbolt the rocker assembly and loosen the bolts so the pushrod will stand free in the pushrod seat of the lifter (the pushrod seat in the lifter will now be forced up against the snap ring in the lifter by the plunger spring in the lifter). Now scribe another mark on the same pushrod. Now you will have two marks on the pushrod. The distance between the two marks is the distance the pushrod was into the lifter when the rocker assembly was torqued in place, or the lifter preload. Maintain this preload between .020” minimum and .060” maximum. In most cases you will have the correct preload or too much preload. If you end up with free play between the pushrod and rocker arms, you must determine how short the pushrod is and add .030” (to give you room on either side of the recommended preload) to that figure, ending up with a new pushrod length that will give you the correct preload. We can make any length pushrod you need, but you must determine the length. As a general rule, you should only need to check two pushrods per cylinder head, one intake and one exhaust. However, if the valve stem heights of all the valves on the head you are checking (measure from the spring seat to the top of the valve) are not the same or according to factory specs, it will be necessary to check lifter preload on all the valves. It may save you time later, if you are having a valve job done, to make sure that the machinist checks the valve stem height. This is a normal operation if a valve job is done correctly. On inline valve engines you should be able to lay a straightedge across all the valve stems (assembled) and they all should be even. Other engines that have individual studs, shoulder bolts, or pedestals are not so difficult, like the 151 cu. in. 4 cylinder Pontiac engine. We have special adjusting nuts for use on engines with bottleneck studs. This type of stud has the shoulder larger than the thread and the stock nut torques down to the shoulder and therefore has no adjustment. Our special adjusting nut has an allen set screw in the top and is counterbored at the bottom to go over the shoulder. This type of nut makes the valve train adjustable, using the sequence previously outlined. Run the nut down until you each zero lash (no preload and no lash) then 1/2 to 1 turn more. Hold the nut still with a wrench and tighten the allen screw tight against the top of the stud, then continue throughout the engine until all valves are adjusted. On engines with pedestal or shoulder bolt mounted rocker arms you can use shims under the pedestal, or shoulder, to lessen preload. If the preload is too little, or none at all, then a longer pushrod will be needed. Again, use the same procedure as previously outlined to determine lifter preload. Another method of checking lifter preload on individually mounted rocker arm style engines is to have the nut or bolt torqued into place 3/4 to 1 turn of torque wrench movement after zero lash.

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