comparison between cotton and silk fabric dyed with ...

DAFFODIL INTERNATIONAL UNIVERSITY JOURNAL OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, VOLUME 11, ISSUE 2, JULY 2016

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COMPARISON BETWEEN COTTON AND SILK FABRIC DYED WITH TURMERIC NATURAL COLORANT Sumon Mozumder, S.M.M.H. Majumder Department of Textile Engineering, Faculty of Engineering, Daffodil International University E-mail: [email protected], [email protected] Abstract: This study was intended to assess the comparison on the color fastnessof cotton and silk fabrics dyed with turmericnatural colorant by usingthree mordants.Since textiles have no affinity towards turmeric, so mordantingtreatment of selectedfabric samples wascarried out at three conditions,with the alum, ferrous sulphate and alumferrous sulphatecombination.In this work, turmeric provided better color fastness yieldson silk comparing to cotton dyed fabric. Among three mordants, alum and alum-ferrous sulphatecombination rendered better color fastness properties on silk dyed fabric comparing to ferrous sulphate mordant itself.On the other hand, more color fastnesswas resulted from the ferrous sulphate and alum-ferrous sulphate combination in cotton dyed fabrics. Hence,this research work was imperative to select the suitable mordant to be used in the textile dyeing with turmeric natural colorant. Keywords: Natural dye, Turmeric Mordanting, Color fastness, Eco-friendly.

colorant,

1. Introduction Dyeing of textiles with natural dyes have a long history and also had its presence in the beforehand [1]. But, because of the invention of synthetic dyes on 1856, the use of natural dyes declined considerably. Again, at the very beginning of twentieth century the cost for synthetic dyes production was much decreased and as a result, natural dyes were almost ignored [2]. But, due to creating worldwide environmental awareness, the attention on the application of natural dyes in natural fibers is increased [3]. This is mainly because, comparing to synthetic dyes, natural dyes have better biodegradability, well ultraviolet protection, antibacterial activity and high compatibility with the environment [4-5]. Those dyesare obtained from the plant, animal and mineral origin, though plants are considered as the main sources Date of submission : 06.11.2016 Date of acceptance : 21.11.2016

of natural dyes [6]. The turmeric is collected from the plant and produces brightest yellow color, which is rich in phenolic compounds called curcuminoidsbelongs to the diaroylmethane group calledas diferuloylemethane [7]. It is the most popular natural dye which is environment friendly. Besides, it is also eminent for anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, anti-carcinogenic, anti-parasitic, anti-inceptive and anti-mutagenic properties and even for the development of sunscreen products [8-10].Natural dyes are mostly non-substantive and usually applied on textile materials with the help of suitable mordants. Those mordantsare commonly metallic salts, which have attractions towards both for fiber and dye [11]. Generally metallic salts of aluminium, iron, copper, chromium and tin are used for mordanting of textiles [12]. In this research work, two available mordants were used, potash aluminiumsulphateand ferrous sulphate, respectively. First one is usually known as alum, which is cheap and safe to use and the second one is known as green vitriol, which isreadily soluble in water and can be used for darkening or browning of the shades [13]. Many researches were conducted before on textile dyeing with natural colors. Among those, one researcher wanted to make color on silk fabric by using some vegetable dyes (such as mango, guava and henna leaves) with different mordants, but the levelness of shade was found better onfabricsmordanted with alum compared to ferrous sulphate. Again, of three dyes, only henna with good levelness was observed after comparing with other dyes[14]. The researcher extended his previous work and hereby suggested that the hues on textiles can be varied from the same dye, if different mordants are used[15]. There was another work conducted to

Comparison between Cotton and Silk Fabric Dyed with Turmeric Natural Colorant

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dyecotton and silk with the extraction of African Mariegold (Tageteserecta) by using ferrous sulphate and alum as mordants. The excellent color fastness properties were resulted for silkdyed fabrics rather than cotton [16].Furthermore, one researcher worked to find out the potentiality of henna dyeing and its color performance on cotton and linen substrates. He found cotton as a better dye up taker than the other fiber and good color fastness was found from henna dye onboth fibers[17]. Besides, another research work showed the experimentation to improve the colorperformanceof a natural dye (eucalyptus bark dye) on cotton. Following this there was a post-treatment on dyed fabric with alumwhich rose wash fastness properties considerably.

Several mordants were used in that research, buttextile materials mordanted with stannous chloride and ferrous sulphateonly showedeven dyeing and dark shade was obtained[18]. Sincethe color fastness of natural dyes varies with the mordants and method of application, so it is always expected to do research to identify the best possibilities of dyeing on textiles. However, limited work was undergone for textile coloration with turmeric (Curcuma longa) that created a gap to work with it. In this investigation, turmeric was applied on two textile materials, Cotton and silk fabrics, respectively with the alum, ferrous sulphate and its combination to assess the color performance.

Table 1 Specification of the fabric samples Cotton sample Parameters Measure Structure Single jersey knitted Course per inch (CPI) 56 Wales per inch (WPI) 28 Yarn count (Ne) 28 Stitch length (mm) 2.54 Fabric linear density 138 (GSM) Twist per inch (TPI) 20 Yarn twist direction Z

2. Experimental Details

Silk sample Parameters Structure Ends per inch (EPI) Picks per inch (PPI) Yarn count (denier)

Measure Plain weave 162 64 110

Fabric linear density (GSM)

90

Twist per inch (TPI) Yarn twist direction

20 Z

2.2 Methods

2.1 Materials

2.2.1 Method of pretreatment

In this research work, turmeric color (Curcuma longa) was individually applied on 100% cottonand 100% silkfabrics. The specification details of the selected fabric samples are enlisted in the following table 1.

Similar three (3) cotton fabric samples and three (3) silk fabric samples were considered in this research work. The weight of each sample was taken as around 10 gram. All of the selected cotton samples were well scoured-bleached with a recipe stipulated in the following table 2. Table 2 Recipe for scouring-bleaching of cotton sample

(a)

(b)

Figure 1: Turmeric powder (a) and its chemical structure (b) [7].

Chemicals and Parameters

Measure

Detergent Sodium hydroxide Hydrogen per oxide Peroxide stabilizer Sequestering agent

1 g/l 3 g/l 4 g/l 1 g/l 0.7 g/l


pH Fabric weight M:L Temperature Time

10.7 30 gm 1:10 100˚C 60 minutes

To increase the dye absorbency and whiteness of cotton fabric sample scouring and bleaching process were carried out at combined stage with 1 g/l of detergent, 3 g/l of sodium hydroxide, 4 g/l of hydrogen per oxide, 1 g/l of peroxide stabilizer and 0.7 g/l of sequestering agent at the boiling temperature for 60 minutes. The pH of

the pre-treatment bath was recorded as 10.7 by a pH meter. Then, the cold rinsing and hot wash were carried out on the pre-treated cotton sample at room temperature for 5 minutes and at 80˚C for 10 minutes, respectively. Finally, the sample was neutralized with the use of 0.8 g/l of acetic acid. Besides, the recipe used for degumming and bleaching of selected silk samples in another bath is shown in the following table 3.

Table 3 Recipe for degumming and bleaching of silk samples Degumming Chemicals and Parameters Detergent Soap solution

Measure 1 g/l 10 g/l

Soda Ash Sequestering agent pH Fabric weight M:L Temperature Time

2 g/l 0.7 g/l 10.2 30 grams 1:10 80˚C 60 minutes

Due to having gummy substance, called as sericin in it’s structure, silk sample was not hydrophilic, so it was needed to do degumming process on the fabric sample with 1 g/l of detergent, 10 g/l of soap solution, 2 g/l of soda ash and 0.7 g/l of sequestering agent at 80˚C temperature for 60 minutes. After that, cold rinsing and hot wash at 70˚C were done on the silk pre-treated sample. In addition to this, bleaching process later on silk samples could improve the whiteness by decomposing the natural color bodies from it. This bleaching process was carried out at 70˚C for 60 minutes with 1 g/l of wetting agent, 3 g/l of soda ash, 3 g/l of hydrogen per oxide, 0.8 g/l of peroxide stabilizer and 0.7 g/l of sequestering agent.

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Bleaching

Chemicals and Parameters Hydrogen per oxide Wetting agent Peroxide stabilizer Soda ash Sequestering agent pH Fabric weight M:L Temperature Time

Measure 3 g/l 1 g/l 0.8 g/l 3 g/l 0.7 g/l 10.5 30 grams 1:10 70˚C 60 minutes

Finally, the pre-treatment on silk sample was completed by repeated cold rinsing and hot washing process. 2.2.2 Method of mordanting and dyeing After the pretreatment mordanting of cotton and silk samples were carried out in three conditions with three mordants, including alum, ferrous sulphate (FeSO4),and alum-FeSO4combination, respectively which produced total six samples. Thosemordanted cotton and silk samples were then dyed with the turmeric colorant. The recipesused for mordanting and dyeing process are stipulated in the following table 4 and 5, separately.


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Table 4 Recipe of mordantingon cotton and silk samples Chemicals and Parameters

Condition I

Condition II

Condition III

Alum

2 g/l

---

1g/l

Ferrous sulphate

---

2 g/l

1 g/l

Sample weight

10 grams

10 grams

10 grams

M:L

1:10

1:10

1:10

Temperature

100˚C

100˚C

100˚C

Time

60 minutes

60 minutes

60 minutes

Mordanting of cotton and silk pre-treated samples were carried out in the separate baths with 2 g/l of alum, 2 g/l of ferrous sulphate, and combination of 1 g/l alum and 1 g/l ferrous sulphate to increase the attractions of textiles towards turmeric colorant. Every mordanting process with different mordants was done at 100˚C for 60 minutes. Then, rinsing with normal water and washing with hot water made the process complete.

minutes ended the coloration process which delivered the colored samples shown in the figure 2.

(b)

(a)

(c)

Table 5 Recipe of dyeing on cotton and silk samples Chemicals and Parameters

Dyeing with turmeric

Turmeric powder Sample weight M:L

5% owf 30 grams 1:10

Temperature

100˚C

Time

30 minutes

Turmeric was used in powder form (figure 1)in dyeing of mordanted cotton and silk samples at exhaust method. 5% of turmeric powder was taken to dye cotton samples containing three different mordants, including alum, ferrous sulphate and alum-ferrous sulphatecombination.he dyeing process was carried out at 100˚Cfor 30 minutes. Then, repeated cold rinsing and hot wash at 60˚C for 5

(d)

(e)

(f)

Figure 2: Cotton and silk dyed fabrics(showing yellow color) treated with Alum (a,b), FeSO4 (c,d) and Alum-FeSO4 combination (e,f). 2.2.3 Method of assessment After the dyeing process it was vital to assess the color fastness properties of six cotton and silk dyed samples. In this work, it was possible to do color fastness to washing (color change and


staining) and color fastness to dry and wet rubbing (staining) testson the dyed samples to evaluate the color stability against some influences. The color fastness tests on dyed samples were performed based onISO methods. Assessment of color fastness to washing

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Assessment of color fastness to rubbing Both wet and dry rubbing fastness of colored samples was tested through ISO 105 X12: 1993 method.

The wash fastness of the dyed samples was evaluated according to ISO 105 C03 method.

Figure 4: Pictorial views of cotton and silk dyed samples during rubbing fastness testing. (a)

3. Discussion of Results

(b)

After the evaluation of color fastness to washing and rubbing on dyed samples the ratings were recorded in the following table 6.

Figure 3: Pictorial views of cotton (a) and silk (b) dyed samplesduring wash fastness testing.

Table 6 Color fastness ratings of cotton and silk dyed samples Cotton

Silk

Color fastness to washing

Color fastness to rubbing

Color fastness to washing

Color fastness to rubbing

Color Staining change

Dry

Wet

Color change

Staining

Dry

Wet

4/5

4

3/4

4

3

3

4/5

3/4

3

1/2

4

3/4

2/3

FeSO4

3

4

4

3

Alum+FeSO4

2

4/5

3/4

2/3

Alum

Color fastness to washing (color change) Overall, the color fastness to washing (color change) of silk dyed samples was found better than the cotton for all conditions. Alum and

4

3/4 4

combination of alum and FeSO4 rendered more ratings than the FeSO4 itself in case of silk samples dyed with turmeric color. Besides, only

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FeSO4provided more colorfastness ratings or less color fading for cotton compared toother mordants. Color fastness to washing (staining) In case of silk dyed samples color fastness to washing (staining) was obtained better than the cotton for alum itself, but similar ratings were found both for silk and cotton samples treated with FeSO4 and alum-FeSO4combination. In case of silk samples having turmeric color slightly more staining resulted from the FeSO4than the alum and combination of alum and FeSO4.On the other hand,combined alum-FeSO4 rendered a little more fastness rating or less staining in cotton compared to others.

alum-FeSO4 combination. Therefore, it is very much significant to select a suitable mordant in textile coloration with the natural colorant, because color fastness properties of dyed goods will vary with the use of different mordants. Hence, this work will be imperative and very supportive for the readers and industry people to do further work with the natural dyes, especially using turmeric in textile dyeing from ecological viewpoint. References [1]

[2]

Color fastness to dry rubbing (staining) Overall, the color fastness to dry rubbing was found more on silk dyed samplesthan the cotton for three conditions. The most and the least color fastness to dry rubbing were caused from the alum and FeSO4, respectively for silk samples. Besides, both alum and alum-FeSO4combination delivered slightly more staining due to dry rubbing than the FeSO4itself.

[3]

[4]

[5]

Color fastness to wet rubbing (staining) For silk dyed samples the color fastness to rubbing in wet condition was found better than the cotton for all conditions, except FeSO4. Silk samples treated with FeSO4 and alumFeSO4combination,rendereda slight staining, because of wet rubbing than the alum itself. But, in case of cotton dyed samples FeSO4only showeda good rating that indicates low staining compared to other two mordants.

[6]

[7]

[8]

4. Conclusion The turmeric was found suitable foritsapplication on the protein fibre (silk)rather than cellulosic fibre (cotton).Two mordants and its combination were used in this work to dye textiles with the turmeric because of textiles having no affinity towards natural colorant. Among three mordants, alum and alum-FeSO4 combination showed better color fastness properties on silk dyed fabrics while compare to the mordant, FeSO4 itself. Besides, for cotton dyed fabric more color fastness was materialized from the FeSO4 and

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[10]

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