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D A I LY N E W S BA SELWORLD • T HE WAT CH AND JE W ELLER Y SHOW

EDITORIAL

BRILLIANCE MEE T S

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MARCH 19 – 26, 2015

TUESDAY, MARCH

‘ T H E J O U R N E Y ’ C O N T I N U E S: C H O PA R D D E E P E N S I T S COMMITMENT TO S U S TA I N A B L E L U X U R Y

HIGHLIGHTS

by Christel Trimborn

Dear Ladies and Gentlemen, Basel is a highly attractive city. But whenever Baselworld visits our city, it becomes even more charming and appealing! There is no doubt about that. During the eight days when the world’s most prestigious Watch and Jewellery Show takes place, there is always a very international flavour in the air. That is why it is a real pleasure to welcome exhibitors and visitors alike to Baselworld 2015! Basel is a vibrant centre for knowledge and exchange as well as a place of innovation. And we are very happy that Baselworld 2015 adds to this with the presence of the largest and most prestigious brands, the emerging talents in the world of design and, of course, the finest retailers. The coming together of high quality, brilliance and exclusiveness from 40 countries here in Basel creates a magic environment, which brings us right into the spotlight of the world’s media. I am tremendously delighted to get a closer look myself at this year’s attractions, which, once again, will range from intricate watches to the most beautiful jewellery. I will certainly enjoy this very much. And I hope that you too will enjoy this year’s Baselworld 2015, as well as the city of Basel itself as an important place for exhibitions. Dr. Guy Morin President of the Executive Council of Basel City

H E A R D  I N  B A S E L “We see Baselworld as the global voice of the luxury timepiece and jewellery industry, so there is no better platform to commence the global launch of Fabergé’s new collections.” Robert Benvenuto, President and COO of Fabergé.

W W W.BA SELWORLD.COM

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THE GREEN WAY ON THE RED CARPET

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he success story that Chopard began in 2013 with its multi-year ‘The Journey to Sustainable Luxury’ programme is commencing a new chapter with the support for another small-scale mining community in Bolivia. Together with Eco-Age and its Creative Director Livia Firth, Chopard initiated ‘The Journey’ programme two years ago, thereby becoming the first watch and jewellery manufacturer in the luxury sector to support small-scale mining communities in the process of qualifying according to the Fairmined guidelines. Chopard also promotes education and social insurance for the people in the community and helps them to protect their environment. After a first project at a small-scale mining community in the Colombian province of Nariño, this second project channels Chopard’s support to miners in the Bolivian highlands. Situated at an altitude of 4,000 metres above sea level in the Andes, this community is one of Bolivia’s largest independent cooperatives – with 98 members, including 78 women. Chopard’s haute joaillerie is manufactured in accordance with the ethical standards of the Green Carpet Challenge (GCC) and sold under the name Green Carpet Collection. The first creations in the collection were unveiled at the Cannes Film Festival in May 2013.

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FROM PARIS, WITH LOVE

French high-end luxury brands delight with extraordinary timepieces combining expertise and timeless style.

04 Caroline Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard.

Earrings from the Green Carpet Collection.

In subsequent years, famous actresses were delighted to wear these ‘fairly sourced’ treasures as they proudly presented the ‘green’ jewellery on the Festival’s signature red carpet. At Baselworld 2015, Chopard is presenting new haute joillerie jewellery for the Green Carpet Collection as well as another watch in the L.U.C Fairmined line: produced in a limited edition of 250 timepieces, this new model relies entirely on fairmined gold for its bezel and for the sides and back of its case. “Thus far, we’ve unfortunately only been able to produce a small number of pieces of jewellery and watches from fairmined gold, simply because the vol-

ume of sustainably mined raw material isn’t sufficient for a larger production run, yet,” admits Chopard’s Creative Director and Co-President Caroline Scheufele, who is, at the same time, pleased by what has been achieved to date: “We are proud to take the next step on our Journey to Sustainable Luxury. It has not been easy, but the results are incredible. We can truly see the differences that we are making in the mining communities.” Her brother KarlFriedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard, adds: “It has been very important to Chopard to continue with our bold commitment. Investing in these mines is crucial to supporting the lives of people who make our business possible. Over a thousand families have benefited from our initial commitment of social, environmental and training programmes. Now we are going to be able to expand this commitment to touch 1.0, D15 many more lives.”

HOROLOGICAL HERITAGE

Glashütte Original stays true to its roots by launching refined watches inspired by Saxon tradition. Yann Gamard, President and CEO, has the latest news.

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A TRADITION OF EXCELLENCE

Carl F. Bucherer once again presents exciting timepieces for gents and ladies.

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MANUFACTURING BRILLIANCE

New Eterna CEO Robert Dreyfuss shares his goals for the traditional manufacture and talks about the new chronograph movement.

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WATCH GALLERY

At a unique platform in Hall 2 independant watchmakers are presenting a wealth of diversity and some of the most spectacular pieces of this year’s Baselworld. A must-see for all watch lovers!

“ALLURE, ELEGANCE, PURITY” P R E S I D E N T O F C H A N E L F I N E J E W E L R Y A N D W A T C H E S , P H I L I P P E M O U G E N O T, D I S C U S S E S C O R E VA L U E S E M B O D I E D I N N E W T I M E P I EC E S Interview by Kyra Brenzinger

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resident of Chanel Fine Jewelry and Watches, Philippe Mougenot, talks about the brand’s new watches on display at Baselworld. BWDN: The J12 has triggered a real trend for ceramic watches. How does Chanel continue to develop and distinguish itself? Philippe Mougenot: Ever since it was first created in 2000, the J12 has embodied the values inspired by Gabrielle Chanel’s universe: allure, elegance, purity, masculine-feminine features and innovation. From a creative point of view, the J12 is the perfect illustration of the codes and values of the Maison: fluid lines, innovative materials and audacious colours. These intrinsic qualities enable

us to pursue endless stylistic possibilities, as reflected by the new watches we are presenting at Baselworld this year. Apart from the J12, what other new items are you launching at Baselworld? Our two other collections, Première and Mademoiselle Privé, are also given pride of place thanks to their broad offering in the high-end category, notably including complications, Métiers d’Art and high jewellery models. Are you considering launching a new watch for men in the long term? Chanel will continue to make regular forays into the world of masculine watches but will remain first and foremost rooted in the feminine watch market.

What are your goals for 2015? We will pursue our more long-term investments with the specific goal of a measured and balanced international development strategy. At the end of 2014, we had 52 boutiques, including 43 Fine Jewelry and Watches boutiques and nine Watch boutiques. Our distribution policy is deliberately very selective because we feel that the point of sale should be a special showcase for luxury products. Chanel Watches are distributed through an exclusive network of 473 retailers, whereas our jewelry pieces are only available in our Chanel Fine Jewelry boutiques. In 2015, we will be re-opening our boutique on London’s New Bond Street with four times the floor space and our first original boutique in 1.0, A31 Vancouver, Canada.

Philippe Mougenot, President of Chanel Fine Jewelry and Watches.

2 WATCHES TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015

CONTENTS

DA I LY N E W S Première Rock, Chanel. Dior VIII in black ceramic, 33 mm, Dior.

PARIS, JE T’AIME T H E C I T Y O F L I G H T S’ S T Y L E I N W AT C H E S

01 WATCHES

b y Ky r a B r e n z i n g e r

02 Paris Style / Rolex / Breitling for Bentley 04 Glashütte Original / Bulgari / Graff Diamonds 08 Carl F. Bucherer / Omega / Ulysse Nardin / Zenith 10 Eterna / Milus / Peter Speake-Marin 17 Dreyfuss & Co. / Designers / Oris 21 Skeleton watches / Glycine / Versace / Coach 22 Tutima / Romain Gauthier / Charriol 27 Watch Gallery / Sinn Spezialuhren / Salvatore Ferragamo / Schlumpf Innovations 28 Morellato Group / Bruno Söhnle / Wenger 32 Stührling / Jacques Lemans / Danish Design 35 Magnum / Momodesign / Gagà Milano 39 Louis Moinet / Thomas Mercer / Arnold & Son

02 MARKETS 45 Pearls / Swatch Group 46 India

03 JEWELLERY 49 Harry Winston / Jewellery Theatre 50 Swarovski / German Designers 52 Stephen Webster / Annamaria Cammilli / Asia Jewellers 56 Elle / Gellner 59 Italian Spring / Furrer-Jacot 62 Beautiful Beasties / Frieden 65 Schreiner / Hulchi Belluni 66 Deakin & Francis

04 INNOVATIONS

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n line with their reputation, French brands are opting for the very best the watchmaking industry has to offer: SwissMade paired with French design. When it comes to taste, the French touch is always a safe bet. Following the arrival of Raf Simons as Creative Director for Haute Couture, Prêt-à-Porter and Accessories in 2012, this year, Dior has chosen to derive inspiration from ready-to-wear trends to inject a breath of fresh air into its watch collections. For the first time, the brand is introducing seasonal straps, such as for its Dior VIII Montaigne model which includes straps edged with a spring-summer piping in blue, plum or black alligator skin or rubber. The designer brand is continuing to apply a modern approach to its materials and had no hesitation in transforming the Dior VIII into a black ceramic version paired with midnightblue alligator skin to reflect the company’s last spring-summer fashion show. The high-tech side of this wellstructured model is also indicative of the structured cuts created by Monsieur Christian Dior. In addition to its iconic J12 model, Chanel is also unveiling some new items in its two other collections at Baselworld: Première and Mademoiselle Privé. Created in 1987 and

The Hermès stand exudes Parisian chic.

inspired by the octagonal shape of the No. 5 perfume bottle and the Place Vendôme, the Première is turning to ‘Rock’. Thanks to a triple steel strap, the model is transformed into a real fashion accessory interwoven with lace and available in three colours: pink and blue pastel or beige. For Boucheron, the first jewellery company to set up on the Place

by Iris Wimmer -Olbort

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75 Carvings 77 Opals / Emeralds / Sugarloafs / Constantin Wild

06 WORLD OF BASEL

B R E I T L I N G P R E S E N T S N E W VA R I A N T S O F T H E BENTLE Y GMT LIGHT BODY B04 CHRONOGR APH by Iris Wimmer -Olbort

An ePaper edition of the Baselworld Daily News is also available for download from www.baselworld.com

F IND U S AT www.facebook.com/ baselworld www.twitter.com/ #baselworld www.weibo.com/baselworld

homage to the snake necklace presented by Frédéric Boucheron to his wife in 1888, Boucheron is launching a watch which is at once extremely feminine and easy to wear at Baselworld. The Serpent Bohème comes with a black or white strap, is decorated with diamonds and has all the ingredients of that indefinable Parisian chic which is so highly desirable.

G O L D A N D D I A M O N D S: R O L E X U N V E I L S N E W VA R I A N T S O F T H E C E L L I N I T I M E

AT HOME AROUND THE WORLD

80 Chopard / Glashütte Original / Hublot / Jörg Heinz / Groh + Ripp 84 Saint Honoré / Certina / Imprint

Vendôme, this is the perfect opportunity to reinterpret its Epure watch in a haute joaillerie version set with rough square diamonds, reminiscent of the famous pavé work from Paris. The extraordinary Epure Tourbillon Lierre de Lumière is representative of the Place Vendôme, decorated with diamond-studded ivy leaves. Updating its iconic Serpent Bohème collection as an

IMPERISHABLE BEAUTY

GMT Light Body B04 S, Breitling for Bentley.

71 CAD Programs / Badeco / Benzinger / Bergeon

05 GEMSTONES

Serpent Bohème, Boucheron.

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ot a case but a ‘chassis’ and an ‘engine’ rather than a movement: when Breitling talks about its Breitling for Bentley collection, the terminology changes and the vocabulary is borrowed from the automotive world. That’s because these watches imaginatively and exclusively unite both realms. Now the time-honoured partnership between the watch brand and the legendary British automobile manufacturer enters a new stage with two variants of the distinctive Bentley GMT Light Body B04 S chronograph: the model with the words ‘Midnight Carbon’ in its name has a black, highly resistant, carbon-coated titanium case with a diameter of 49 mm, whilst the 45-mm case of the Bentley GMT Light

Body B04 S is crafted from naturally untreated titanium. Both models show characteristic features of the Bentley collection, for example, asymmetrical horns and a bezel adorned with a relief styled after a Bentley’s radiator grille. Each model encases Breitling’s self-winding manufacture Calibre B04, which has earned chronometer certification from the C.O.S.C. This movement supports a display for a second time zone via an underlying construction designed to optimise user-friendliness. After the wearer has rotated the flange with its wreath of 24 city names into the appropriate position, thanks to the 24-hour (home-time) hand, it is possible to instantly read the time in 1.0, C31 any desired time zone.

his model is the classical beauty in Rolex’s collection: after last year’s introduction of a new Cellini generation, the iconic brand is presenting four additional variants distinguished by their clear design and classical charisma at this year’s Baselworld. Precise indication of the time is the focus of the Cellini Time. This watch’s applied hour markers are divided by a minute track that has been moved towards the centre of the dial, closer to the tips of the faceted hands. The spirited calligraphy of the ‘Cellini’ signature adds an eye-catching detail to the dial. Like some of the dials, the bezels are resplendent with diamonds. The new gem-set Cellini Time models are offered in 18-karat white or Everose gold with a 39-mm case and a single or double bezel set with diamonds. The double bezel combines a row of 96 diamonds with the fluting that’s emblematic of Rolex’s watches. The dial is coated with midnight-black lacquer and accentuated by eleven diamonds at the tips of the hour markers. The versions with a single bezel, which is set with 62 diamonds, feature new pink or rhodium dials with sunray finish and elongated

applied hour markers. The ticking heart of these prestigious timepieces is a selfwinding mechanical movement from the Rolex Manufacture with C.O.S.C. chronometer certificate. This calibre indicates the hours, minutes and seconds. A semi-matte black alligator-leather strap completes the classical styling of the 1.0, A11 new Cellini Time models.

Cellini Time, Rolex.

T I S S O T C H E M I N D E S T O U R E L L E S A U T O M AT I C . 3 1 6 L S TA I N L E S S S T E E L C AS E , S C R AT C H - R E S I STA N T SA P P H I R E C RYS TA L A N D WAT E R RESISTANCE UP TO 5 BAR (50 M / 165 FT). INNOVATORS BY TRADITION.

T IS S OT.CH

H A L L E 1. 0 D 3 1

4 WATCHES

DA I LY N E W S

TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015

“DEMAND EXCEEDS CAPACITY” GERM A N Y ’S GL A SHÜ T T E ORIGIN A L IN HIGH DEM A ND Interview by Sabine Zwet tler

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developed numerous distinctive models in the 1960s, ’70s and ’80s that repeatedly inspire us to create new interpretations. Our archive and museum are veritable gold mines for our designers and engineers, who constantly evolve the stylistic vocabulary and/or finishing techniques used in earlier Glashütte timepieces.

ann Gamard, CEO of Glashütte Original, reveals details about a new worldtime watch, expansions in the successful Pavonina line, and the importance of history for new watch models in a conversation with BWDN. BWDN: Glashütte Original debuted a new chronograph movement last year: Calibre 37 combines a f lyback mechanism, a power-reserve display and your brand’s typical panorama date. What is this year’s technical highlight? Yann Gamard: We unveiled a technical highlight this year: the Senator Cosmopolite, which is equipped with our new self-winding Calibre 89-02. The success of our Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon prompted us to further develop the idea of the ultimate world-time watch and to integrate a display of all 37 time zones into this new timepiece. Although the mechanism is complex and capable of showing half-hour and quarter-hour time differences, this watch is intuitively operable and readily legible.

Yann Gamard, CEO of Glashütte Original.

Senator Cosmopolite, Glashütte Original.

The prize-winning Vintage collection revives retro designs from the 1960s and ’70s. How important are historically inspired designs in new watches? Historically inspired watches play a very special role at Glashütte Original because we have a rich heritage and we

Your brand’s portfolio also includes elegant jewellery watches for sophisticated aficionadas. Which new models can ladies expect in 2015? Naturally, we’ve also devoted ample thought to style-conscious watch-loving women, so 2015 brings expansions in our successful Pavonina line. The feminine Pavonina too, which was originally inspired by a Glashütte ladies’ watch from the 1920s, appeals to female watch connoisseurs with its characteristic pillow-shaped case. The seven new models that we’re introducing this year augment the existing Pavonina line: their styles range from sleekly elegant to opulently glamorous. These models are available in stainless

steel, bi-colour and red-gold variants with artistically crafted dials, optionally embellished with diamonds, from our own dial manufactory. Glashütte has also earned kudos during the past several years by serving as an educational institution for apprentice wristwatches. How many apprentices are currently employed? And are you planning any further expansions in the trainee programme? We currently train 24 watchmakers and four toolmakers each year. This means that the number of apprentices attending our Alfred Helwig School of Watchmaking has almost doubled since 2013.

FROM HALLUCINATION TO FASCINATION

We’ve accordingly hired additional staff and enlarged the premises that are available to our trainees. How was 2014 for Glashütte Original and what do you expect for 2015? We completed extensive renovation and expansion work at our manufacture in 2014. We also successfully introduced our new chronograph Calibre 37 worldwide and further expanded our presence in Europe and Asia. Demand for our watches continues to exceed our production capacity, so our greatest challenge for 2015 will be to promptly satisfy the continually grow1.0, C25C ing demand.

Diagono Magnesium, Bulgari.

G R A F F D I A M O N D S F O L L O W S U P T H E H A L L U C I N AT I O N W AT C H F R O M 2 014 – B E H O L D : T H E FA S C I N AT I O N by N i n a H a ld

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ast year, Graff Diamonds dazzled Baselworld with the Hallucination jewellery watch; a creation made up of more than 110 carats of natural fancy intense diamonds. This year, the annual piece of the utmost prestige from the British company is entitled The Fascination. And it clearly demonstrates the extraordinary capability, skill and expertise, which rightfully surrounds the Graff Diamonds name. Adjectives of superlative character could read like hyperbole, but become plain self-evident truth when confronted

with the supreme masterpieces of the workshop. These creations from the pinnacle of the luxury sphere display the exacting precision and meticulous attention to detail, which go in to making truly exceptional pieces, that redefines what is possible to bring forth. The Fascination is all about transformations. Like ice on fire, it incorporates 152.96 carats of the very finest colourless diamonds. At the heart of the piece is an exquisitely rare, 38.13-carat D-Flawless pear-shaped diamond, cut and polished by Graff. An interchangeaDazzling Diamonds are presented at Graff ’s stand.

ble element, this magnificent diamond can be worn as the centrepiece of a sculptural bracelet or placed into a bespoke shank and worn as a ring. When an elegant diamond watch face is inserted into the bracelet, an opulent jewelled timepiece is a reality. Founder and chairman of Graff Diamonds, Laurence Graff OBE played an integral role in the design and creation of The Fascination. At the premiere of its unveiling, he said: “We are inspired by the rarest and most precious diamonds – their influence is evident throughout everything we do. The Fascination is an outstanding piece, carefully crafted so it can be worn in a number of different ways – adding a touch of magic to the jewel. “It perfectly encapsulates the ethos of our business, from sourcing the very finest diamonds, uncovering their potential through our cutting and polishing divisions, pushing the boundaries of design, meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail – resulting in the creation of the most fabulous jewels in the world. “The Fascination is truly unique and joins our roll call of important jewels, which are among the rarest and most sought-after stones ever uncovered. It is a true celebration of our 1.1, D51 diamond mastery.”

Fascination, Graff Diamonds.

MECHANICAL CONCEPTS MEET MODERN TECHNOLOGY B U L G A R I P R E S E N T S T H E D I AG O N O M AG N E S I U M C O N C E P T WAT C H A S T H E K E Y T O A V I R T U A L S A F E by Iris Wimmer -Olbort

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ank account number, PIN code, a scan of an identity card or e-banking access data: this kind of information deserves special protection, for example, by keeping them in a virtual safe that authorised persons cannot access and that can only be opened with its owner’s personal key. Bulgari is presenting this virtual ‘key’ at Baselworld in the form of a mechanical concept watch. The Diagono Magnesium combines tradition with avant-garde and mechanical timekeeping with modern technology. The heart of the watch is a self-winding mechanical movement which ticks inside a 41-mm case that unites innovative materials, such as magnesium, PEEK (a

polymer) and a ceramic bezel. In addition to the movement, the case also contains a cryptographic chip and an invisible antenna which enables the watch to transmit a digital certificate to the Bulgari Vault application, which is already downloaded and set up on the telephone. Bulgari devised this combination of mechanical timekeeping and innovative technology in collaboration with WISeKey, a leading Swiss company that specialises in digital security and data storage. Plans call for the watch to be useful for other activities:, too. According to Bulgari, conceivable future applications for the timepiece include making payments or opening 1.0, A01 doors and car doors.

Hall 1.0 / Stand A100

Rodania Swiss Chic collection · Vancouver model · Sapphire crystal · Stainless steel 316l · Folded buckle with safety clasp Gents’ watch: ref. 25110.40 www.rodania.com ·

facebook.com/RodaniaWatches

Hall 1.2 Stand B03

8 WATCHES

DA I LY N E W S

TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015

THE MAGIC OF ROSE GOLD

3 QUE S T IONS, 3 ANSWERS

C A R L F. B U C H E R E R P R E S E N T S T H E M A S C U L I N E A N D T H E F E M I N I N E S I D E O F T I M E by Iris Wimmer -Olbort Pathos Diva in rose gold, Carl F. Bucherer.

Pathos Diva has a grand entrance this year.

“60 percent in-house movement production” IS THERE A NEW DIRECTION FOR THE BRAND NOW THAT IT IS FULLY OWNED BY THE KERING GROUP?

Manero Tourbillon Limited Edition, Carl F. Bucherer.

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ine horological artistry in rose gold and red gold for men and women: Carl F. Bucherer offers two unconventionally aesthetic watches that perfectly embody time’s masculine and feminine sides. The Manero Tourbillon Limited Edition epitomises exclusive haute horlogerie and the Pathos Diva Rose Gold is a feminine jewellery watch with an aura accentuated by imaginative styling, sparkling diamonds and a mother-of-pearl dial. The Manero Tourbillon Limited Edition is impressive thanks to its subtle combination of red gold and the colour brown, in tandem with its classically styled dial. The face’s velvety brown hue was specially developed for Carl F. Bucherer. The visually appealing eyecatcher on the dial is the tourbillon,

which is positioned at 6 o’clock and traversed by a handsome bridge. The people at Carl F. Bucherer had a very good reason to accentuate the tourbillon because they’re extremely proud of their manufacture movement and its ‘whirlwind’, a complication that’s generally acknowledged to be the greatest challenge in the world of watchmaking. A tourbillon puts the balance of a movement inside a cage which rotates to compensate for the deviations that gravity causes in the accuracy of the watch’s rate. But Carl F. Bucherer’s haute horlogerie newcomer has even more to offer: the hand-wound Calibre CFB T1001 amasses a 70-hour power reserve, the status of which is shown on the dial at 9 o’clock. This wristwatch indicates the date via an easily legible hand that sweeps along

an annulus on the dial’s periphery and also offers a 24-hour indicator at 12 o’clock. The Manero Tourbillon in red gold with alligator-leather strap is produced in a limited edition of 188 timepieces. This watch brand’s collection embodies time’s feminine side in the Pathos line, which is welcoming new highlights at Baselworld. Seductive rose gold gives these creations a radiantly warm elegance and accentuates their unconventional design. Both the Pathos Diva in rose gold and the Pathos Queen in rose gold have an unusually shaped case with openwork structures that Carl F. Bucherer describes as ‘aureoles’. On the Pathos Queen, this takes the form of a net-like golden structure, which comprises the sides of the case and finely frames the mother-of-pearl dial. The

look is accentuated by the white colour, which is visible through the golden net. And on the Pathos Diva, the aureole appears as an undulating design on the sides of the case and as a frame around the dial. This linear pattern also reveals the underlying white colour, which is highlighted by two lines of brilliant-cut diamonds along the sides of the case. The design of both models is harmoniously augmented by mother-ofpearl dials with applied rose-gold indices or numerals, above which rose-gold hands tirelessly sweep their circles. The ensemble is perfectly complemented by the Pathos bracelet, which boasts finely crafted rose-gold links. Exclusivity also characterises these watches’ inner lives: a self-winding mechanical movement 1.0, C33 ticks inside each.

MISSION COMPLETED

SLIM AND BEAUTIFUL

OMEGA L AUNCHES T HE SPEEDMAS T ER S K Y W A L K E R X- 3 3 S O L A R I M P U L S E

ZENITH PRESENTS A NEW VERSION OF THE ELITE CALIBRE

by Sabine Zwet tler

by Sabine Zwet tler

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mega is launching the limitededition Speedmaster Skywalker X-33 Solar Impulse to coincide with the Solar Impulse project, a roundthe-world flight by an aircraft powered solely by solar energy. The 45-mm case of this new wristwatch is crafted from grade-two titanium and topped by a blue ceramic bezel with a chromium-nitride

scale that radiates a green glow in the dark thanks to its coating of SuperLumiNova. The dial is equipped with analogue and digital indicators. The central liquid-crystal display shows the chronograph’s functions, a countdown, up to three different time zones, three alarms and a perpetual calendar. The hours, minutes and seconds are indicated in analogue fashion. The indices, hour marks, hour hand and minute hand all shine in the dark with a green glow, as do the digital displays. The power source inside the case is the multifunctional chronograph quartz Calibre 5619 with thermally compensated switching. In allusion to the Solar Impulse theme, this model is also equipped with Mission Elapsed Time (MET) and Phase Elapsed Time (PET) functions. The timepiece is produced in a limited edition of 1,924 units. This number commemorates the year of the world’s first round-the-world flight: members of the United States Army Air Service circumnavigated the globe from April 4 to 1.0, C25D September 28, 1924.

Speedmaster Skywalker X-33 Solar Impulse, Omega.

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ith the presentation of a new movement, Zenith is reaffirming its status as a genuine manufacture. Updated to uphold the newest technical standards, this new calibre is the latest incarnation of the Elite, which debuted in the early 1990s. Calibre Elite 6150 is extremely slim (just 3.92 mm tall), has two barrels to amass a power reserve of at least 100 hours and includes a balance with a frequency of 28,800 A/h. The calibre

The most important thing for us in this new ownership is that Kering shares our vision and has since the beginning, so there are no changes in direction or philosophy. They fully support our desire to be independent, to make our own movements and to continue innovating. In fact, thanks to the support of the Kering Group, Ulysse Nardin is able to create a new dedicated marketing corporation. This was just announced at the press conference here on Wednesday evening. IS THE BRAND CONTINUING ITS PIONEERING SPIRIT IN TERMS OF TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS?

Yes, most definitely. This year, we have two innovative new products coming out. One is the Freak Lab – it is a continuation of the Freak but with an innovative new function and with new silicium technology that can be used in other calibres further down the road. This is my personal favourite of the year because it is a significant timepiece for Ulysse Nardin. Also, Ludwig Oechslin was very much involved in this piece, so it is close to all our hearts. HOW IS THE IN-HOUSE MOVEMENT PRODUCTION GOING?

We are pleased to say that more than 60 percent of our movement production is now done in house, including our own hairsprings and other parts. Additionally, this year, we have further improved the anchor escapement we showed at Baselworld last year. We have made it a constant force escapement and combined it with a tourbillon in the new Ulysse Nardin Calibre 178. The new watch showcases an all-new way to indicate the power reserve. 1.0, A39

ticks inside the homonymous and ultra-slim model that can be seen here at Baselworld. The case is 42 millimetres in diameter and ten millimetres high. Its classical lines continue onto the silver-plated and slightly cambered dial with pointedly tapering batonshaped hands. The slender hour markings are not applied, but milled from the massive dial – another detail that further underscores the very fine aura 1.0, D05 of the Elite 6150.

Elite 6150, Zenith. Patrik P. Hoffmann, CEO of Ulysse Nardin.

FOR EXCLUSIVE VIEWING [email protected]

10 WATCHES

DA I LY N E W S

TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015 Zetios Chronograph, Milus.

ETERNA WITH NEW CEO

CONTEMPOR ARY INTERPRETATIONS OF TR ADITION

ROBER T DRE Y FUSS COMMENCES L E A D I N G R O L E AT H I S T O R I C W AT C H M A K E R Interview by Elizabeth Doerr

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obert Dreyfuss assumed his new position at Eterna in mid-January. Prior to that, he was Group Chairman of Dreyfuss & Co., which owned Rotary. Both Rotary and Dreyfuss are now under the umbrella of CityChamp Watch and Jewellery. Why the switch from your own Rotary brand to Eterna, both of which are now owned by CityChamp Watch and Jewellery? Robert Dreyfuss: Eterna is a valuable asset belonging to CityChamp. Our Chairman, Kwok Lung Hon, asked me to join and begin the journey of restoring it to its former glory and rightful place in the front windows of the world’s finest jewellers. The Eterna story is a testament to Swiss watchmaking. From our 160 years of Swiss watchmaking history to our innovations in movement manufacturing, Eterna is a brand that holds a warm place in the hearts of many Europeans. What are some of the advantages of belonging to CityChamp Watch and Jewellery? There are a multitude of benefits when you are part of a strong holding company. From a shared Asian distribution platform to leveraging our in-house movement manufacturing at Eterna, we are only just beginning to uncover the synergies available between Corum, Eterna, Eterna Movement Company, Dreyfuss & Co., and Rotary. Talent in different companies is able to share indepth knowledge of the watch industry internally, and senior managers are able to freely communicate and work toward a common goal. Can you share some of your goals for Eterna with us? It’s all about going back to basics. We dig into the brand’s original DNA, playing on its innovative past, iconic products, movement manufacturing brilliance, and finally executing the basic tasks really well. It is not about reinventing the wheel. This brand has a history and heritage that money can’t buy.

It looks like there is a bit of product diversification going on, particularly when I see the new ladies’ watch... Eterna is known for iconic ladies’ watches, including the smallest women’s baguette watch at the turn of the twentieth century and the Golden Heart. Due to our highly regarded movement manufacturing reputation and large portfolio of watches for men, we have historically attracted a mature male clientele. There is significant untapped potential in the women’s market where there has traditionally been a weak offering. Can you share some details of your new chronograph? The Calibre 39 Chronograph is unique and outstanding courtesy of our sister company, E.M.C (Eterna Movement Company) and it will be reserved exclusively for Eterna. Delivery will commence in small quantities this autumn. The Royal Kontiki Chronograph is on display at Baselworld, and while only limited quantities will be available, it will be a special piece utilising this unique movement. Do you plan on selling Eterna’s movements to outside companies? Eterna Movement Company will initially address the immediate movement requirements of group-owned brands including Eterna, Corum, and the Dreyfuss Group. Thereafter, E.M.C. will seek to satisfy the growing list of third-party brands hungry for high-quality Swiss movements. It is the strategic intention of the group to become a credible movement supplier to the watch industry, especially given our history in pioneering movement development and almost setting the original standard back in the late nineteenth century by which most mechanical movements are judged. What do you hope to achieve at Baselworld this year? We hope to solidify relationships with our partners, restore confidence amongst retailers and, hopefully, show a glimpse of what a bright future this beautiful brand 5.0, A01 can strive for.

Robert Dreyfuss, CEO Eterna.

M I L U S S H O W S I T S D I V E R S I T Y AT B A S E L W O R L D by Sabine Zwet tler

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ounded in Bienne in 1919, Milus has earned a permanent place for itself in the tradition of Swiss watchmaking. The brand’s philosophy – ‘Highly Personal’ – is most apt because emphatically idiosyncratic design distinguishes its watches. These are built from high-quality materials and encase sophisticated mechanisms, for example, a special type of retrograde display for which Milus is justly famed. The Tirion TriRetrograde has three retrograde hands, each on its own arc, which team up like relay racers to show the seconds. Each hand is responsible for 20 seconds. A new

version of the Tirion TriRetrograde is appearing this year. The Zetios Chronograph is another newcomer in 2015. Milus is dedicating this model to the M2 Speed Tour Regatta, which is why the race’s logo appears on the elapsed-hours counter at 6 o’clock and the hand on this counter emulates a yacht’s mast. An outsize date display is anchored across the dial below the twelve. An innovative dial of carbon fibre underscores this watch’s sporty panache. A narrow bezel and straight horns are also characteristic details of the new Zetios.

The brand’s elegant showcase attracts visitors.

The 45-mm case houses a self-winding Swiss-quality movement with an hourly frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations and a 40-hour power reserve. Ladies’ watches have always been an integral part of Milus’ portfolio. One of the newest women’s timepieces is the Zetios Automatic, which similarly hosts an outsize date display balanced by a subdial for the seconds at the other end of an imagined diameter. Roman numerals indicate the hours on the mother-of-pearl dial. A most noteworthy feature of the new Zetios Automatic is its narrow bezel, which leaves ample space for the dial. Sparkling diamonds adorn the bezel and continue like a fluent cascade onto the horns and the bracelet’s crosspiece. This scintillating ensemble boasts 300 diamonds with a total weight of 1.29 carats. DuboisDépraz’s self-winding Calibre DD14000 is visible through a window in the back of the 42-mm, DLC-coated, Zetios stainless-steel case. Automatic, Milus.

1.1, A83

LADIES FIRST S P E A K E- M A R I N T R AV E L S I N T O A F E M A L E S PA C E by Elizabeth Doerr

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eter Speake-Marin has been going through a transformative process these last couple of years, first moving from independent watchmaker to brand. And now, he is transitioning to populate a full-blown brand collection. In other words, Peter Speake-Marin has channelled his considerable sense of design to complete a new task to round out the collection: he has now designed a ladies’ watch. As this new feminine timepiece belongs to Peter Speake-Marin’s J-Class line, it has received the name of a famous boat: the Shenandoah. The thought process behind the unusual name is interesting. The 1902 schooner was named for a river in Virginia, which may or may not have meant ‘beautiful girl of the stars’ in a Native American language. Also typical of Peter Speake-

Marin’s romantic way of working, this watch is completely different from anything else in the line, meaning that it is laudably not a shrunk-down men’s watch, but rather created as its own entity from the get-go. Twelve references of it arrive here at Baselworld based upon two premises: one dual-time-zone model and one timeonly without seconds. The dual time is outfitted with two small sub-dials on the larger oval dial, while the time-only is slightly more classic but with surprisingly bold Arabic or Roman numerals. Both come in a choice of white or red gold with varying degrees of gem-setting (or none) on the wide bezel and/or dial. All twelve are outfitted with quartz movements as well as Speake-Marin’s special, shaped hands either in gold or 1.1, A80 cornflower blue.

1.1, A80 Shenandoah, Peter Speake-Marin.

B A S E LW O R L D H A L L 1 . 1 / D 5 5

14 WATCHES

DA I LY N E W S

TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015

“40 YEARS OF INNOVATIVE ACHIEVEMENTS” S W I S S B R A N D M A U R I C E L A C R O I X C E L E B R AT E S ITS ANNIVERSARY WITH MANY NEW INTRODUCTIONS Interview by Sabine Zwet tler

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n its forty years of existence Maurice Lacroix has managed to become a genuine manufacture and is now well established in the world of fine Swiss watchmaking. Stéphane Waser, Managing Director at Maurice Lacroix, shares company and product news with Baselworld Daily News.

BWDN: Mr. Waser, you have taken over the reigns at Maurice Lacroix in fall 2014, after having served as the company’s International Marketing Manager for over six years. What are your plans as Managing Director? Stéphane Waser: What motivates me is to live the passion for progress that is perfectly embodied in Maurice Lacroix.

Stéphane Waser, Managing Director at Maurice Lacroix (in the middle) with his team.

BLACK SETS THE TONE A SELEC T ION OF SWAR T H Y BE AU T IE S AT B A S E L W O R L D 2 015 by Sabine Zwet tler

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ell aware that ‘black is beautiful’, the great Coco Chanel preferred to wear this colour, which really isn’t a colour at all. She made the ‘little black dress’ fashionable is 1926. Today, too, nearly every fashion designer includes the ultimate classic non-colour in their collections. No other hue radiates such timeless elegance or can be as diversely combined with other tones. Henry Ford was also aware of this: “Every customer can have his Ford in the colour of his choice – as long as it’s black.”

Black is again setting the tone in watches this year. The shadowy hue covers cases, bezel and crowns, and sometimes continues onto the wristbands and clasps. Innovative materials and new processing methods give these black surfaces an appealing look combined with scratch resistance, lightness and corrosion resistance. The Movado Sapphire achieves its distinctive appearance through a flat sapphire crystal that flows seamlessly to the edge of the round, bezel-free case, creating a smooth, fluid, unbroken sur-

It is a brand I know very well indeed since I have been with the company for over seven years now. Today my job has two focuses as not only do I head up the company, but I am also in charge of the sales side. This combined look at the business allows me to identify growth opportunities and take action with speed and pragmatism. This is how we create our opportunities for growth. Moving forward with my new management team, our aim is to accelerate performance through optimising our internal processes and product developments, whilst delivering the best quality products and the most exciting marketing projects. Currently, our activities are lined up to bring Maurice Lacroix to the next level.

Maurice Lacroix actually stands for 40 years of innovative achievements, this lies deep in our brand DNA. With our own manufacture calibres, we have continuously increased the level of innovation for our in-house movements. This translated into several world premieres, as well as numerous design awards. Our manufacture movements are the high end of our collections, however, all products branded with a Maurice Lacroix logo leave from our site in Saignelégier, Switzerland, and benefit from our internal R&D and craftsmanship. This is a bit comparable to Formula 1. Over the years, many dayto-day cars integrate technologies once developed for competition.

Three new explorations of the Masterpiece Gravity are proposed, two of which are limited editions for the celebration of the brand’s 40th anniversary. The Masterpiece Gravity is the perfect embodiment of the Maurice Lacroix approach to watchmaking. It is modern, stylish, highly technological and avant-garde with its assortment entirely made out of silicium. Our 40 years of innovative achievements are well presented on our stand with a complete window showcasing the most significant pieces of our watchmaking history and expertise seen over the years, more particularly since we created our own manufacture in Saignelégier in 2006.

What are the major introductions at Baselworld 2015? This year we are unveiling our key 2015 novelties featuring limited editions, anniversary pieces, progressive new complications and new colours and materials in the Pontos S range. Furthermore, we are strengthening our Les Classiques and Eliros collections. Our partnership with FC Barcelona is being highlighted with the revealing of a surprise collection of unique pieces for each of the players, which haas never been seen in the watchmaking universe.

Which are the strongest markets and where is there still potential to grow? Maurice Lacroix is a truly international brand, present across the world. This gives us the crucial advantage of not being dependent on one particular geographical zone, so we do not suffer from local economic slowdown. We are particularly strong in Hong Kong, China and Asia in general. The Middle-East is a strategic growth area, where Maurice Lacroix has historically been very strong and will continue to enforce its presence. We have doubledigit growth figures in the Americas. In Europe, the love story between Maurice Lacroix and Germany continues to flourish while there is a significant potential for growth in the rest of Europe. In Russia, despite the current political turmoil, Maurice Lacroix continues to 1.1, E63 be in high demand.

How important is the conception and the production of manufacture calibres these days?

Are there any special collections or celebration events to accompany the anniversary? Absolutely. This year, Maurice Lacroix is capitalising on a product in high demand and that is on the road to becoming a truly iconic reference for the brand.

face. Launched nearly a quarter of a century ago, Sapphire was one of several key Movado families of the period that sought to bring the simple geometry and design purity of the acclaimed Museum dial to the watch case that framed it. Now for 2015, Movado is adding an entirely black model to the collection. Featuring the collection’s thinner new 40-millimeter case, the quartz watch includes a black sunray dial with silver lettering, etched minute track with black cabochon hour markers, skeleton hands and outlined signature dot at 12 o’clock, as well as a black PVD-finished steel case, sporting a dramatic all-black look. At Baselworld, Fendi Timepieces is presenting a new watch collection called the Momento Fendi, boasting an intriguing feature. Every minute, when the minute hand and the seconds hand meet, the two form an impression of the Fendi signature for a fleeting second. The Momento Fendi is available in different sizes, including a 34-millimeter case specially designed for women, and a 40-millimetre chronograph, for both women and men. The line is offered in stainless steel, two tone (including a combination of

stainless steel with ceramic), and in yellow or rose-gold tone cases – all either with or without diamond accents. For those who have a penchant for the colour black, the House is proposing a 42-millimetre automatic model in an all-black look. The hands are coloured black with specific red printings on the minute and the seconds hands which form the Fendi signature when they come together. The date is also red. Hublot’s new Spirit of Big Bang All Black is also debuting in basic black. Limited to 500 timepieces, this model’s tonneau-shaped case houses the new automatic Calibre Hublot HUB4700, which was revised in collaboration with Zenith. It’s based on the El Primero chronograph movement with date display, which oscillates at a pace of five hertz or 36,000 vibrations per hour and is hailed by connoisseurs as one of the best chronograph movements. Fine skeletonising is beautifully visible through the sapphire-crystal dial. The date appears in a window at 4.30. The chronograph’s case is water-resistant to 100 metres and is affixed to a black rubber strap.

Sapphire, Movado.

Movado showcases beautiful black timepieces, as do many other brands.

Momento Fendi, Fendi Timepieces.

NEWS

HAMILTON’S new 36-mm Jazzmaster Skeleton Lady weds beauty and the technical finesse of skeletonising. Its mother-of-pearl dial with an openwork flower offers a clear view into the richly embellished automatic Calibre Hamilton H-20. A diamond-studded case with 68 exquisite gemstones impressively stages the attractive scene. It is attached 1.0, A25E to a deep-blue strap. (sz)

Spirit of Big Bang all Black, Hublot.

H A L L 1-1, B O O T H D59 FE N D I .CO M / T I M E PI E C E S

SARCAR TRAMEX SA • Geneva • Switzerland Abu Dhabi • Azerbaijan • Bahrain • China • Colombia • Dubai • Hong Kong • Indonesia • Japan • Kuwait • Macau • Malaysia • Oman • Qatar • Russia Saudi Arabia • Singapore • Switzerland • Taiwan • Thailand • UK • USA • Vietnam Visit us at our booth A12 in the Hall of Dreams or www.sarcar.com

Creation by Sarcar / Photo Marian Gérard

W h i t e G o l d 18 c a r a t s with Diamonds and Emeralds.

WATCHES 17

DA I LY N E W S

TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015

“OUR NEXT BIG OPPORTUNITY IS ASIA-PACIFIC” THE SALE OF THE DRE YFUSS GROUP IS ALRE ADY RE APING BENEFIT S Interview by William George Shuster

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he Dreyfuss Group, the oldest Swiss watchmaker owned and operated by its founding family, was sold in 2014 to CityChamp Watches & Jewellery (CWJ) of Hong Kong, owner of other Swiss watch companies. CEO of the Dreyfuss Group Victoria Campbell tells BWDN about the sale, how it affects its watch brands, and its Baselworld debuts.

Les Originales, Rotary.

BWDN: What led to 2014’s sale of the Dreyfuss Group, especially after its strong 2013? Victoria Campbell: There were three key factors. One is distribution. With widespread distribution in Europe and growing sales and distribution across North America and the Middle East, our next big opportunity is Asia-Pacific. We’ve been successful with points of sale in Hong Kong, Macau, Malaysia,

Victoria Campbell CEO of the Dreyfuss Group.

Singapore and Thailand. However, to succeed in mainland China, we need the established distribution and financial depth CityChamp can provide with access to over 2,000 points of sale via its Ebohr and Rossini brands. The second factor is Swiss-Made movements. They’re harder to get, making Swiss Made a more powerful, valuable asset. So, we had to align with a group that can assure us a future supply of top-quality, Swiss-Made movements. CityChamp has put huge investments into Eterna’s outstanding manufacturing facility in Grenchen, Switzerland, which is launching a superb range of movements in 2015. And the third is family. The business had been in the hands of the Dreyfuss family for four generations, but the fifth generation wasn’t inclined to follow a career in the watch industry. So, the Dreyfuss family decided 2014 was the year to align themselves with a larger watch group. How does the acquisition affect Dreyfuss Group and its watch brands? It’s hugely beneficial. As part of a large, fast-growing watch group, we have critical mass at all levels, ‘know-how’, and

most notably, Asian support. It lets us work closely with CWJ’s other watch brands and manufacturers (Corum, Eterna, Rossini, Eterna Movement Company and Ebohr). CityChamp wants us to build on the success of our brands (Rotary, Dreyfuss & Co., J&T Windmills) under new ownership. Meanwhile, we’re developing new projects specifically desgined to showcase a new, outstanding movement from our in-house manufacturer, Eterna Movement Company.

What are Dreyfuss Group’s big Baselworld debuts? We’re proud to announce a plethora of new watches. They include Dreyfuss & Co.’s new Skeleton and Utilitarian watch families, and Rotary’s outstanding Vintage-led launch including new complications and limited editions. J&T Windmills – a very traditional and niche brand – has also been refreshed, while maintaining its fundamental old English 1.2, D09 design principles.

I T ’ S A B R I L L I A N T M E C H A N I C A L Y E A R F O R W O M E N W H O H AV E A PA S S I O N F O R D E S I G N b y R o b e r ta N a a s Mademoiselle Privé Camélia, Chanel.

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Hermès, this year, is unveiling the Arceau Ecuyère Aventurine watch with a mechanical self-winding movement that offers 42 hours of power reserve. The movement has been specially decorated with ‘H’ symbols, hand-chamfered bridges and a micro-rotor. The alluring dial is crafted of sparkling aventurine and the sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock is surrounded in diamonds. Similarly the case and lugs are also set with Top Wesselton V.V.S ‘extra white’ to ‘plus extra white’ diamonds. At Burberry, automatic movements and diamonds also come into play this year, as the iconic British trench coat brand brings its famed check motif to the wrist. A new interpretation of the lining of the trench coats has been designed by Christopher Bailey, Chief Creative Officer and CEO of Burberry. It is a screamingly beautiful pattern made with rose gold and diamonds that emulate the well-known check pattern. The watch, offered exclusively on a made-to-order basis, is created in Switzerland and features a double row of diamonds on the bezel, in addition to the diamonds on the dial. The case is crafted in polished and brushed pink gold, and is water-resistant to 50 metres. The watch is powered by the mechanical automatic STP13 movement, and even the bridges have been adorned with the check motif.

Arceau Ecuyère Aventurine, Hermès.

ORIS HONOURS THELONIOUS MONK WITH A LIMITED EDITION by Sabine Zwet tler

In 2014, the Group targeted new markets for expansion in Asia, the U.S. and South America. Does Citychamp ownership affect that? CWJ is primarily interested in replicating our success in Europe in its own local markets – Hong Kong, Macau and China. We’re now embarking on plans for 2015. In other markets, it’s business as usual, implementing strategies to drive sales. There are also opportunities to share distribution with other CWJ brands and their subsidiaries.

DESIGNERS GO ULTR A FEMININE esigner watch brands are a rare breed. They must combine fine watchmaking with couture class and elegance in the watches they produce. Luckily for us they’ve got it all mastered. This year, they are pulling out all the stops to create savvy new timepieces that not only align with their couture message, but also bring mechanics and beauty to the wrist in a contemporary style. Chanel, for instance, brings its famed J12 watch to new heights with the J12 Skeleton Flying Tourbillon. In this watch, the mechanical movement features a stylised tourbillon with a diamond star that whirls about the escapement. Created in close collaboration with Swiss master watch movement makers Renaud & Papi (APRP SA), the watch is a work of art and beauty. The finely perforated dial gives a view of the skeletonised movement created in variations of black finishes that range from shiny to polished and matte, as a backdrop for the diamond comet. The Mademoiselle Privé watch is a true jewellery piece and highlights the company’s expertise in watchmaking and haute joaillerie. It also draws on Gabrielle Chanel’s favourite themes as reflected by the famous Camélia with its lavish mother-of-pearl marquetry work and the delicate decoration of Coromandel, specially produced using a glyptic technique.

‘ROUND MIDNIGHT’ TIME

Burberry continues its The Britain success story.

Thelonious Monk Limited Edition, Oris.

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his Swiss brand isn’t only known for its technically sophisticated pilots’ and divers’ watches, it also cultivates its artistic side, which is expressed in the series of historical watches that honour jazz icons. The Thelonious Monk Limited Edition joins this series this year to honour the American pianist of the same name. A leading figure in modern jazz, Thelonious Monk’s music is primarily known for its love of dissonance. The style is distinguished by the interplay of tones that are perceived as discordant within an otherwise harmonious overall concept. ‘Round Midnight’, which Thelonious Monk wrote in 1944, has remained a jazz standard to the present day. The 40-millimetre stainless-steel watch has a smoky blue dial with a sunburst pattern and polished dots rather than numerals. A self-winding movement based on the Sellita SW200 ticks beneath the dial. The phrase ‘Monk always know’ is engraved on the back of the case to recall the jazzman’s wordplay: he arranged to have a jeweller engrave the word ‘monk’ on a specially made ring, but his audiences read the 1.0, D35 engraving as ‘know’.

Tangaroa Lady

The Tangaroa Lady exudes the exotic allure of a faraway paradise, where time and space dissolve into the infinite. It is the yearning for freedom coupled with a hint of adventure. The mother-of-pearl dial is graceful and stylish. Set with diamonds, this watch imparts its understated glamour to every wrist. A piece of jewellery fashioned by exclusive watchmakers’ craftsmanship. eterna.com

Hall 5.0, Booth A01

AUTOMATIC stainless steel case, water-resistant 50 m

WATCHES 21

DA I LY N E W S

TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015

NEWS

THE ART OF SKELETONISING

Skeleton Pure Earth, Armin Strom.

THREE BE AU TIFUL EX AMPLES OFFER DEEP INSIGHT INTO THEIR INNER WORKINGS by Sabine Zwet tler

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ans of mechanical timepieces are deeply fascinated by the heart of a watch – from the oscillation of the balance wheel to its gentle tick-tock. The view inside a skeletonised watch movement is even more fascinating, with each component of the calibre cut out to form an elegant silhouette. No other watch is as open as a skeletonised timepiece in the literal sense. The dial, and often the case back, offer clear insights into the movement with all its tiny components, which are cut down to their fundamental structure. Every detail from the plate to the bridges and gear wheels is pared down to its minimum shape so that the function of each individual component becomes clearly visible. The technique is particularly impressive when carried out by hand, as with Claude Meylan’s Tortue de Joux. The fully skeletonised mechanical hand-wound movement appears to float between two sapphire crystals. At the heart of the mechanism, the hour and minute wheels guide the hands. The decorations are inspired by the characteristic shutters on the homes of the watchmaking farmers of yore and can be admired here and there, each hinting at the expert hand of the craftsman who brings these delicate finishes to life.

The meticulously sculpted bridges create a harmony of forms and play on subtle contrasts in colour with the plate, further accentuated by the transparency of the whole. The watch debuts in a tonneau case crafted from 316L stainless steel. Armin Strom is one of the great skeletoniser watchmakers of the modern era. He takes on a more futuristic look with the Skeleton Pure Earth. The watch in stainless steel/PVD highlights the unique layout of its parts arranged in layers, thus creating an almost architectural impression. The entirely skeletonised Calibre ARM09-S reveals subtle depth effects and contrasts that are accentuated by the black PVD-treated plate. This sophisticated mechanical movement not only displays a resolutely contemporary design, but also delivers first-rate performances, including an eight-day power reserve driven by a twin barrel. The Skeleton Pure Earth is a 100-piece limited edition. Also on display at Baselworld is Armand Nicolet’s LS8, showcasing watchmaking and artisanal savoir-faire. Its skillfully skeletonised and decorated hand-wound movement is equipped with a shock-absorbent system and an inhouse developed Swan Neck mechanism of adjustment. The superb piece is limited to 600 models.

Tortue de Joux, Claude Meylan.

LS8, Armand Nicolet.

COACH – The collection of the American brand offers distinctive designs with fresh, modern appeal. In unmistakable Coach fashion, these exciting timepieces incorporate Coach signature patterns, genuine leathers and bold hardware details. The new Duffle Buckle plays on the contrast between rose gold and stainless steel. Rose gold tones are reflected by the hands and the clasp on the square case, which is attached to a filigree mesh bracelet. The Duffle Buckle is driven by a quartz 1.0, A100 calibre.(sz)

COUTURE CLASS

ON THE HOMESTRETCH G LY C I N E R E L E A S E S A N E W V E R S I O N O F T H E A I R M A N

VERSACE OFFERS MECHANICAL DY LOS IN LIMITED EDITON

by Sabine Zwet tler

b y R o b e r ta N a a s

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hen watch lovers say “Glycine,” they’re usually talking about the “Airman.” The 101-year-old label scored a huge success with this pilot’s watch, which was expressly designed for post-war aviators. Though it’s conceived for flight, this robust timepiece keeps both its feet planted on terra firma and has been Glycine’s pride ever since its debut in 1953. Unlike many other watches, which are designed on a drawing board in an engineering department, the Airman was born in the air when Glycine’s sales director Samuel W. Glur, who was in Asia to develop new markets for his brand, found himself seated beside a captain from Thai Airways aboard a DC-4 aircraft on a flight from Bangkok to Calcutta. In the course of their talk, the captain shared with Samuel his highly detailed vision of a professional pilot’s watch. It should have a self-winding movement and a watertight case, a date display, a GMT indicator to determine local time at the airports where a flight

Airman “DC-4”, Glycine.

is heading and from which it had departed, a luminous dial with special markings for orientation and, most importantly, a 24-hour dial from which a pilot could intuitively distinguish daytime from night-time hours on journeys that cross several time zones. With an hourhand that circles the dial only once per day, this unconventional display preempts the possibility of mistaking daytime for night-time hours or vice versa. These features, the captain explained to Glur, would be valuable aids to aviators in an era when electronic flight-management systems and autopilots were still visions of the future. With the Airman “DC-4”, Glycine pays tribute to the DC-4 airplane. A rhodium-plated selfwinding Calibre GL 293 (based on an ETA movement) ticks inside this pilot’s watch. Entirely in harmony with the original model, the new watch enters the market as an exclusively 24-hour timepiece with displays for two time zones. If its wearer prefers, it can also be used as a conventional 12-hour wristwatch, augmented by a 24-hour GMT 1.1, E63 indicator.

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ver the past decade or so, we have witnessed a tremendous shift in blending the worlds of haute couture and watchmaking. No longer are designer brand names just licensing out their moniker. Instead, many are working to produce timepieces worthy of not just their couture status, but also their quest for perfection and detail. As such, some brands are unveiling mechanical beauties that vie for some top watchmaking spots, while still holding on to their claims to fame as couturiers. This is also true for Versace.

The brand unveils the Dylos Limited Edition watch for men this year that is a jewel for the brand. Powered by the automatic ETA 2824 movement, the watch offers a special display for the hours and minutes on rotating disks. Essentially, the watch is predominantly an IP gold guilloche sunray design meant to act as a cover over the dial below it. At the centre is the Versace Medusa head in three-dimensional beauty. From 10 to 2 o’clock on the dial is an arched indication of the hours and minutes so that the dial has a multidimensional appeal. The watch is available in two versions, IP gold with a black dial, or two-tone with a white dial. Just 500 pieces will be made. 1.1, E67

Dylos Limited Edition, Versace.

22 WATCHES

DA I LY N E W S

TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015

TEN FOR TEN

Tutima puts it new Saxon One in the focus of its stand.

R O M A I N G A U T H I E R C E L E B R AT E S T E N Y E A R S WITH NEW HMS by Elizabeth Doerr Saxon One, Tutima.

SA XON TIMERS T U T I M A G L A S H Ü T T E R E- L A U N C H E S W E L L- K N O W N CHRONOGRAPHS IN CONTEMPORARY NEW LOOKS by Elizabeth Doerr

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orn in Glashütte in 1927, Tutima moved to West Germany in 1945. German reunification has allowed this brand known for its pilot’s chronographs to move back home. At Baselworld 2013, Tutima announced the re-launch of its entire program with revamped designs and new movement technology “made in Glashütte.” Now come the serial chronographs in their finalized forms. Saxon One’s striking cushionshaped case houses the brand’s wellknown chronograph with sweep second and minute totalizers previously powered by automatic Lémania Calibre 5100. Now energized by Tutima Calibre 521 – which is based on ETA Valjoux

Calibre 7750 but modified in-house to accommodate the sweep hands – the contemporary 44-mm stainless steel chronograph boasting matte and polished surfaces that beautifully play with light has taken a deliberate step toward its bright new future. The chronograph module for Calibre 521 is a proprietary development by the brand now firmly ensconced in Glashütte’s watch scene. Unlike most chronographs, whose counters for seconds and minutes are located in subsidiary dials, the Saxon One boasts sweep second and minute totalizers, which not only makes for a more interesting wristwatch, but also a more precise read-off. The wearer has a choice of anthracite-coloured or opaline silver dial with applied markers that

even boasts a 24-hour subdial (which can also be used as a second time zone) and a date window at 3 o’clock. The automatic rotor of Calibre 521 has also been slightly redesigned and now includes the Tutima seal in gold, making for a wonderfully aesthetic point of reference against the antique gray of the movement’s metal. The Saxon One comes on a leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet. The M2 is the new instrument chronograph that replaces the classic Tutima NATO Chronograph 798. Outfitted with the same Calibre 521 found in the Saxon One, it additionally boasts incredibly strong anti-magnetic qualities thanks to a core surrounded by a combination of soft iron and mu-metal, a magnetically soft nickel-iron alloy, that doesn’t allow the effects of magnetic fields to even reach as far as the movement. The M2 is housed in a 46 by 15.5 mm case of pure titanium with integrated chronograph pushers inlaid with neoprene. The new M2 is also available in a second “stealth” version that is encased in 46.5 mm of blackened titanium, including a unidirectionally rotating bezel with minute scale and 14 luminous capsules. Both versions come on a pure titanium bracelet with folding clasp. They are also delivered with a box containing not only an extremely tough extra Kevlar strap, but also tools so that the owner can change 1.1, D87 the strap himself.

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icro engineer and MBA holder Romain Gauthier celebrates ten years of his company’s existence as a boutique watch brand in 2015. To kick off the party he introduces the HMS Ten at Baselworld. Its look is dominated by a configuration of circles and arcs that approximate the classic round watch. But don’t be fooled, the smooth compilation of off-centre hours and minutes with a sectorial seconds arc tucked to one side is anything but ordinary fare. The classic-yet-different look housed in a graceful 41-mm case shields clever mechanics. These are only partially visible from the dial, but they are fully showcased through the sapphire crystal on the case back; the Vallée de Joux-style finger bridges immediately attract the eye.

As Gauthier’s products are really the result of his mixed background and training – engineering and watchmaking juxtaposed – it would be folly to expect anything less than perfection in terms of functionality and finishing. And so, the HMS Ten models (like his other timepieces) display only the time within a contemporary, no-distraction setting and boast some of the very best finishing available. The entire hand-wound, perfectly finished, and expertly designed calibre is manufactured in Romain Gauthier’s Le Sentier workshop with the exception of the mainspring, balance spring and jewels. The HMS Ten will be available in three limited editions of ten pieces each in platinum, red gold, and white gold. 2.0, C35

HMS Ten, Romain Gauthier.

FOCUS ON THE FEMININE N E W C H A R R I O L W AT C H E S S TAY T R U E T O T H E B R A N D ’ S D N A

Gran Celtica, Charriol.

I n t e r v i e w b y Ky r a B r e n z i n g e r

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ased in Geneva, the Charriol brand was founded by French entrepreneur Philippe Charriol in 1983. The company’s designs focus on various watch models decorated with gold and steel “cables” or set with jewels in the case of the more feminine

Philippe Charriol, founder of Charriol.

models. Philippe Charriol reveals his new collections and shares details on his international strategy. BWDN: Can you describe the key new products you brought to Basel? Philippe Charriol: We present the updated St-Tropez Style with interchangeable chains and clips, enabling women to accessorise their watches according to their preferences and reflecting my motto of “the art of living the difference.” We also put the focus on coloured cabling in our Forever Young Colours jewellery collection. Has the St-Tropez collection become your bestseller? In fact, this collection has been enormously popular since it was first created almost 30 years ago because it impresses all ages for different occasions. I have been updating the collection for the last 25 years, as with the St-Tropez Style this year.

Do you want to focus more on feminine than masculine watches? Initially, the brand was perceived as being masculine because I promoted it around the world myself. A few years ago, my wife, Marie-Olga, asked me to create a unisex watch and today, the brand appeals to both men and women. I also have two charm ambassadors – my wife and daughter – who promote the female image and glamour of the brand. You have developed numerous partnerships to establish the feminine image of the brand. Today, we have achieved a certain notoriety thanks to the efforts of my wife, Marie-Olga, who manages the public relations in Europe. We have established various partnerships within a feminine setting such as the Miss France competition and Monte Carlo Festival and we regularly organise the Ladies’ Charriol Polo Cup.

for me to create watches which reflect me and combine my two passions.

Does the Gran Celtica model appeal to you in particular? Essentially, I am an enthusiastic racing car driver and take to the racing circuits several times a year. In addition to our carefully devised aesthetics, this watch is also truly unique thanks to its great attention to detail. It is a real pleasure

You are particularly famous at an international level so why do you continue to have a presence in Europe? It is precisely because we are a SwissMade brand with a French creator that we sell so well internationally. This is a guarantee of quality, good taste and reliability. We were pioneers when we sought to break into Asia close to 30 years ago when it wasn’t so much “the place to be.” So it goes without saying that we need to maintain a presence in Europe and in Paris, the fashion capital. When it comes to Europe, we are pursuing distribution in Spain and Italy for 2015 in addition to openings in France such as Galeries Lafayette with Royal Quartz. But we would also love to open other Charriol boutiques in our own name and hope to finalise this fantastic project over the 1.1, E17 coming months.

NEO Automatic with date in the style of classical modernism 

Visit us at Hall2.0, StandA45

“ULTRA-RARE” U-BOAT MASTERPIECES AT BASELWORLD 2015 Hall 1.1 / Booth b67

www.uboatwatch.com

The Invicta Subaqua Specialty Retrograde Reserve invictawatch.com

HALL 1.2 . BOOTHS E53 & E60

WATCHES 27

DA I LY N E W S

TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015

INDEPENDENT CREATORS

NEWS

W AT C H G A L L E R Y I M P R E S S E S W I T H G R E AT C R E AT I V I T Y

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO – Nomen est omen: With a masculine allure accentuated by the matte-finish IP grey case – 43 millimetres in diameter – the Ferragamo 1898 Sport is water-resistant up to 200 metres. The understated dial has luminescent hands and indices for great readibility. The unidirectional rotating bezel with an aluminium top ring is essential to calculate the dive time. All this is combined with attention to detail intrinsic to the Maison: from the iconic Gancino-shaped case and the name of the collection featured on the dial, to the versatile nylon strap that enhances the watch’s sporty, technical style. The watch which is driven by a Swiss quartz movement, is presented in a palette of colours that draws its inspiration from nature – earthy rust, grass green, nightsky navy blue – in addition to essential 1.1, E67 black. (sz)

By Elizabeth Doerr

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3 QUE S T IONS, 3 ANSWERS

“Many Limited Editions” A NEW FRANKFURT FINANCIAL DISTRICT WATCH HAS RECENTLY BEEN UNVEILED. WHAT ROLE DOES THIS INNOVATIVE GMT TIMEPIECE PLAY IN SINN’S COLLECTION?

reat diversity is what you will find if you head over to the Watch Gallery in Hall 2.2. It’s worth a few moments to peruse the variety of offerings there as you may find something unique that you have never seen before. These new encounters might include a view of Frédéric Jouvenot’s (E39) latest oeuvre, Sîn, named for the Mesopotamian god of the moon. The minutes are static in the centre, while the hours revolve around the dial, following the sun and the moon around its perimeter as they celebrate the passage between night and day. In fact, the moon appears when the sun sets (and consequently disappears). To make the view of this mesmerising extravaganza possible, Jouvenot developed a special sapphire crystal to fit on the titanium case. The whole thing is powered by a manually wound movement developed by Jouvenot with a power reserve of 50 hours and whose screw balance is unusually crafted in black gold. All components, including the movement, case, and clasp, are 100 percent Swiss Made. Israeli creator Itay Noy (F33) debuts his Part Time collection, which contain a dynamic in-house dial outfitted with various windows, each of which displays a partial indication of some

With its purist display and slim case, our new Model 6068 augments our series of the Frankfurt Financial District Watch. Like all our timepieces from this line, it offers the sophistication of a second time zone shown on an inner rotatable ring. And with a case measuring 38.5 mm in diameter, it can be worn equally well by women or men. Engineer Lothar Schmidt, CEO of Sinn.

WHAT ARE YOUR MOST IMPORTANT NEW ITEMS OR INNOVATIONS HERE A BASELWORLD?

We are presenting limited-edition watch models to our clientele and are showing them the new timepieces in our collection. We’ve gone to great lengths to prepare a wide variety of new items this year. These begin with a big divers’ watch (the U212 SE), which has a 47-mm case. They continue with instrument-style watches and chronographs. And our new Frankfurt Financial District Watches testify to our collection’s continual evolution. WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS FOR THE WATCH YEAR 2015?

The watch year 2015 will surely not be an easy one. The watch industry will undoubtedly feel the effects of many events involving global politics and changes in the values of currencies. In addition to the consistent pursuit of our business strategy, it will also be important to respond imaginatively to short-term changes on the market. 2.2, B27

OBJECTS OF TIME S CHL U M PF IN N OVAT I O N S E X HIBI T S T I M E M ACHIN E S by Sabine Zwet tler

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he Swiss workshop is showcasing its mechanical skills at Baselworld, not only through the Time Machine, a kinetic piece which resembles a longcase clock, but also with a huge Four-Quadrant Time Machine, standing in the inner courtyard of Hall 2. A walk-in monumental installation five metres’ tall, it invites the visitors to listen to the magic of four identical, but non-synchro-

nous, Time Machines. They can also watch the movemen, which consists of 24 wheels rotating steadily, with only the anchor wheels moving regularly with the pendulum. As its name suggests, Time Machine is not a clock in the ordinary sense of the word. Florian Schlumpf, owner and CEO of Schlumpf Innovations explains: “An ordinary clock has numbers and tick

Type 23 GMT, Dodane.

marks to indicate what time it is in the moment. The Time Machine is a visual and auditory experience for reflecting on the passage of time, something we do less and less in a hectic world.” It is approximately two metres in height and equipped with huge 60-cm gears. The pendulum measures almost two metres in length. What truly distinguishes the Time Machine from a conventional clock, however, is that its gears turn in a non-linear way, that is, their motion is not determined by the rigid mechanism that holds clocks to a constant, steady page. Instead, the Time Machine’s gears turn in response to the torque required by their neighbours 2.0, E65 in the transmission.

Sîn, Frédéric Jouvenot.

aspect of time; only together do they complete the information. While the left half of the dial reveals the daytime hours from 6 am to 6 pm, the right half is hidden and vice versa. They switch roles every twelve hours. Swiss duo Eric Mauron and Christophe Musy (F45) has created a watch powered by automatic C.O.S.C.-certified Eterna Calibre 3909A that is housed in a 43-mm black DLC-coated stainlesssteel case. This watch is water-resistant to 100 metres, and manages that exceptional depth without gaskets (which means they do not need to be replaced). Alongside the Planet watch winder, Bernard Favre (F41) is presenting the Micros Cube, a loupe that is available in grey, red, green, and blue and comes with a leather box. And American-Swiss watch brand Ernst Benz (E45) is showcasing the latest timepieces of its Great Circle collection. Dodane (F40) is a French watch brand founded in 1857 by Alphonse Dodane and his father-in-law FrançoisXavier Joubert, who originally had the idea of creating a watch factory and design workshop deep in the Doubs valley. There have been five successive generations at the company’s helm

since then. Since 1930, Dodane has been an official supplier to military aviation, fighter squadrons, civilian aviation, and international organisations, including NATO. The present CEO, Cédric Dodane, champions his commitment to French watchmaking heritage by giving the Made in France predicate a place of pride throughout the range. The brand is releasing three new models at Baselworld that fit nicely into the Type 23 family: the Type 23 Chrono Réserve de Marche, the Type 23 Quartz-2, and the Type 23 GMT. The latter comes in a 42.5-mm blackened stainless-steel case with sandblasted finish and a steel bezel with aluminium inserts, upon which we find the scale for the 24-hour display. Water-resistant to 100 metres, this watch is powered by an automatic Dubois-Dépraz calibre and comes on a black calfskin strap with white stitching and a double folding clasp. Valbray (F46) is also presenting its latest: a chronograph called the Oculus Argentique Grey in titanium with DLC coating. Outfitted with the unique Oculus dial covering, which can be manually opened and closed by the wearer, it took its inspiration from a Leica camera.

Mechanical engineering on a large scale: Four-Quadrant Time Machine in the inner court of Hall 2.

28 WATCHES

DA I LY N E W S

TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015

“INNOVATION, QUALITY, AND STYLE IN WATCHMAKING” M O R E L L AT O G R O U P E X P E C T S C O N T I N U E D G R O W T H I N 2 015 Interview by William George Shuster

Massimo Carraro, CEO of the Morellato Group.

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assimo Carraro, CEO of the Morellato Group, discusses major trends in the watch business and some of the Group’s important watch debuts at Baselworld 2015. How was 2014 for the Morellato Group? Massimo Carraro: It was a year of important new events, including some partnerships for international distributions. But I want to stress two important new watch licences. The first is Pepe Jeans London, an iconic denim fashion brand

very popular in Europe and expanding worldwide. It gives us access to the younger market. The other is with Trussardi, the Italian fashion house known for tradition and craftsmanship. Baselworld 2015 is the international debut of the first collection of Trussardi watches by Morellato Group. We are extremely proud of this. In your view, what are some important trends in watchmaking? Certain trends that began in 2013 really took hold in 2014 and continue into 2015, like small cases for women’s watches. Two-tone models are very “in”.

It’s already a trend in jewellery, due to designers combining and mixing materials. Also, some of our own brands’ most successful new collections use “vintage appeal,” a trend drawing on the past for inspiration. These include metal finishes and processes to treat leathers. There’s also a “retro revival,” with a contemporary take on well-known models. This is especially true for watch brands with a history, such as our Sector and Philip Watch brands. Other newer trends revolve around colour. We’ll see more bold colour and a return to blue in many shades, teamed with various PVD finishes. The digital trend of “smart” technologies will have a sizeable impact, especially in health and fitness, on which the public increasingly focuses. What’s happening in the global watch business and that of the Morellato Group? Innovation, quality and style in watchmaking are increasingly in demand in both new and traditional markets, and by the younger, informed consumers who want products with these values. Our Group has a powerful international presence, so we look to foreign markets with great interest. We expect growth in Europe (and not only Italy, France and Spain), China and the Middle East.

Drops’ jewellery and watches, Morellato.

Business also can be boosted by using e-commerce to penetrate key markets. Our partnership with Triboo Digitale, which manages online stores of Morellato Group’s key brands in Europe, does this. In China, we have used the Alibaba Group for this for over two years. What else is Morellato Group debuting at Baselworld? Philip Watch has important news in its Caribe collection: the new Caribe 100 Converter. It has a unit-of-measure converter with a simple bezel rotation. And, I’m really proud to present the exclusive, patented Drops project of the Morellato brand at Baselworld. Beside Drops jewellery, we’ve created ladies’ watches with modular or pre-composed bracelets, with add-on charms. Each Morellato Drops watch is unique, because it’s created by or for those wearing it, and is elegant and refined, thanks 1.2, D49 to precious details.

NEWS

3 QUE S T IONS, 3 ANSWERS Edge Roman, Wenger.

“Discover the fascination of Glashütte”

Stephanie Söhnle, CEO at Bruno Söhnle.

WHAT’S YOUR HIGHLIGHT AT BASELWORLD?

We’re unveiling our premium-line Facetta as an automatic model. Its special case embodies a philosophical standard and achieves a wholly new dimension with the self-winding calibre that we’ve upgraded. The Episode III, with its unparalleled minimalism, surely also ranks among our high points in Basel. HOW IMPORTANT IS IT FOR BRUNO SÖHNLE TO BE PRESENT HERE?

Baselworld is the navel and hub of the watch world – and it’s a unique showcase for us. Here, we meet our existing partners and cultivate new contacts. But Basel is much more. In the midst of its cosmopolitan atmosphere, we enter into direct dialogue with other brands in a way that’s impossible elsewhere. WHAT ARE MOST IMPORTANT CHARACTERISTICS OF YOUR COLLECTION?

Our collection is based on the classical wristwatch, often with a special extra, and embodying an outstanding cost-benefit ratio. As an entry-level brand to discover the fascination of Glashütte’s artistic watchmaking, we’re committed to providing high quality for customers around the world who want to wear affordably priced wristwatches crafted in Germany’s watchmaking Mecca. 2.0, B33

Caribe 100 Converter, Philip Watch.

WITH CORNERS AND EDGES WENGER INTRODUCES THE EDGE ROMAN by Sabine Zwet tler

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he Edge Roman truly deserves its name because this watch comes in a rounded square, 43-mm case made of stainless steel and PVD. The tidy dial boasts attractive sunray decoration and generously proportioned numerals. The Swiss quartz movement inside the case animates the hands for the hours, minutes and seconds. A date window is integrated at 4 o’clock. Equipped with a sapphire crys-

tal, this sportily elegant newcomer stays water-resistant to 100 metres. Similarly classical styling is embodied by the Urban Vintage. As the name implies, it translates fine retro design to the wrist. This watch’s case has a slightly smaller diameter of 41 mm and is likewise water-resistant to 100 metres. The stainless steel and yellow gold case surrounds a pale dial with a 1.2, D13 date display.

TW STEEL – The Dutch brand, which celebrates its 10th anniversary this year, is releasing a host of new chronograph watches this year. Among them is an allnew Canteen Collection of bold chronographs. The Canteen Chrono editions feature a tachymeter bezel and are powered by the calibre 6S20 movement with three sub dials. The Automatic executions have a hammered bezel and hammered mid-pieces on the bracelet for a 1.2, B05 matching look. (rn)

34mm 18K trench gold and trench ceramic case – Nude sunray dial – Mechanical movement with automatic winding Transparent case back in sapphire crystal – Limited edition of 20 numbered pieces

#alpinawatches #alpiner #alpiner4

ALPINER FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH MANUFACTURE

AL-760 in-house automatic chronograph movement with "direct flyback" technology Antimagnetic - Antishock - 100m (300ft) water-resistant www.alpina-watches.com

PL E A SE V ISI T US AT B A SELWO R L D, H A L L 1.1, S TA N DS B79 A N D A91

32 WATCHES

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“CONNECTING AROUND THE CLOCK” C H A I M F I S C H E R , S T Ü H R L I N G ’ S F O U N D E R A N D C E O, TA L K S A B O U T THE COMMITMENT TO ITS CUSTOMERS I n t e r v i e w B y N i n a H a ld

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ship available in the Far East. Much like Lexus, Acura and Infinti showed the world that ‘luxury’ performance cars are the results of vision and commitment – not a particular longitude and latitude – our tourbillons made the same point: that quality and an obsession with your craft is possible almost anywhere you want it to be.

BWDN: What role does Baselworld play for the brand? Chaim Fischer: In the most basic sense, it’s a statement and, in many ways, a privilege to be a part of this, and we don’t take that lightly. In a more pragmatic sense, it enables us to showcase our products in the kind of highly knowledgeable environment that enables attendees to see and experience our offerings and compare them to other brands in our class. We’ve found this type of venue and interaction to be the most efficient way of showing how far superior we are in terms of quality, level of craft, materials used and overall experience – in short, all the elements that go into the creation of a quality timepiece. For us, it’s the ideal forum for ‘telling our story’ on a deeper, more authentic level.

What rules does the company thrive on? Conventional wisdom produces conventional results. A case in point, conventional wisdom viewed the internet as a threat; we viewed it as an opportunity to connect with our customers on an ‘around-the-clock’ basis and create the kind of products we knew they wanted. Conventional wisdom also insisted that true quality was only possible in certain parts of the world – that it was about legacy and history versus understanding that a true commitment to excellence cannot be constrained by geography.

What  is the company record that you are most proud of? Thanks to our tourbillons we were essentially the first company to introduce the world to the level of timepiece craftsman-

Chaim Fischer, CEO and founder of Stührling.

NEWS

commitment to designing and producing fine timepieces is no longer enough, you have to be committed to your customers as well. Stührling does this by showing them that the company both understands and is responsive to their needs and expectations.

SCANDINAVIAN STYLE N E W L A D I E S A N D G E N T L E M E N ’ S W AT C H E S F R O M DANISH DESIGN by Sabine Zwet tler

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anish Design has a strong reputation in dozens of countries, due to an appealing combination of elegant Scandinavian design, high-quality materials and reasonable prices. For 2015, the brand is expanding its collection of ladies and gentlemen’s watches further.

BULOVA – This new collection was created to recall the military watches that Bulova built for the U.S. military in World War Two and that are now kept in the company’s design archive. The dial is distinguished by minimalistic design with Arabic numerals for optimal legibility, plus a window at 6 o’clock with a black date disc. With its red tip, the creeping seconds hand is uniformly propelled by Bulova’s UHF (Ultra High Frequency) calibre. Four models with bold leather wristbands or a green textile strap are available as three-handed watches or as chrono1.1, B83 graphs. (sz)

The successful Date 360 series with its unique circular date indication (360 degrees) has therefore been expanded to include two new versions. Model IQ66Q1050 has a cool anthracite case and a timeless Milanaise steel bracelet, an anthracite dial and seconds hand in contrasting yellow. Model IQ69Q1050 stands out with the titanium-coloured dial and a blue seconds hand. All models have a stainless-steel case with a diameter of 42 millimetres and are water-resistant to 50 metres. The mineral glass is slightly domed. Also new are the models in the 1100 series, featuring strikingly styled leather straps with a side finish and stitching in the same colour (grey, blue or orange) to be found on the dial. The watches are waterproof up to 30 metres and have a stainless steel case with a diam2.0, A71 eter of 42 mm.

Radio controlled watch, Danish Design.

“Thanks to our tourbillons we were essentially the first company to introduce the world to the level of timepiece craftsmanship available in the Far East.” C h a i m Fi s c h e r , C E O , S t ü h r l i n g

Tourbillon Meteorite Limited Edition, Stührling.

Some people say we’re about defying conventional wisdom. We prefer to say that we’re about defining it for a new generation of consumer – the generation that wants to be sold on ‘what’s real’, rather than legacies or historices, which have been created – or embellished – by a marketing team. How do you see the company’s future? Most optimistically. The ‘new normal’ in terms of consumers is about connecting with brands that have to earn their loyalty rather than demand or expect it based on a history. This is a generation whose passions come from understanding at a more organic, authentic level. Do you have a specific motto that you do business by? As we’ve found many of our consumers are younger upwardly mobile business and creative professionals who lead lives far too rich and spirited to have just one watch, our theme as a brand is ‘The Official Timekeeper of Life’ – no matter how one chooses to experience and 2.0, A43 enjoy life.

3 QUE S T IONS, 3 ANSWERS

“A special birthday present”

Alfred Riedl, founder of Jacques Lemans, and his wife Andrea.

JACQUES LEMANS IS CELEBRATING A MAJOR ANNIVERSARY THIS YEAR. ARE YOU PLANNING ANY SPECIAL WATCH EDITIONS OR EVENTS?

Jacques Lemans gave itself a special birthday present in advance of its 40th anniversary. Two megastars from two different disciplines became our brand ambassadors: Oscar winner and Hollywood legend Kevin Costner in 2014, followed by ski star Anna Fenninger in 2015. WHICH VALUES LINK THE BRAND WITH ANNA FENNINGER?

Our new La Passion collection is totally in harmony with Fenninger. Wild Life is its central theme, uniting strong commitment and an equally strong statement in a gorgeous collection of timepieces. Fenninger’s dedication to protecting endangered species and her appreciation for sustainability: all of this fits perfectly with Jacques Lemans. Her success as a ski racer, her passion for the sport, her ambition and her precision: these qualities have also been central themes at Jacques Lemans for many years. KEVIN COSTNER HAS BEEN A CLOSE FRIEND OF THE JACQUES LEMANS BRAND FOR A LONG TIME. HOW WOULD YOU CHARACTERISE THE COLLECTION THAT’S DEDICATED TO HIM?

This collection is masculine and sporty, with classical elements. It’s absolutely in tune with the spirit of the times. The watches combine understatement, sportiness and classicism. Incidentally: Kevin Costner has a starring role in his latest movie, and Jacques Lemans is featured in the film. That’s naturally a special birthday present for us. 1.2, C02

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MAGNUM INTRODUCES TWO NEW “CHAMPIONS”

OFF THE BEATEN TR ACKS CASIO PRESENTS THE NEW PRO TREK by Sabine Zwet tler

A R N O L D S C H W A R Z E N E G G E R A N D B R A Z I L I A N S O C C E R P L AY E R N E Y M A R D A S I LVA S A N T O S L E N D N A M E S T O N E W W AT C H E S I n t e r v i e w by N i n a H a ld

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agnum’s Director Jack Magid is proud to reveal the results of two high-profiled projects – and rightfully proud of the Brazilian watch company that brought Arnold Schwarzenegger to Basel. Pro Trek Cerro San Clemente, Casio.

BWDN: What is the most important Magnum Group news during Baselworld 2015? Jack Magid: The launch of the Schwarzenegger watch and the Neymar watch under the Champion Brand. Our biggest market continues to be our local one, Brazil, but this year we look forward to focus on the U.S., Europe, Middle East and Asia as well. Baselworld is a key pillar in our international strategy, due to its unique potential to communicate directly with the most important watch distributors all over the world. What can you tell about the innovations? With the introduction of the Schwarzenegger watch, we bring a unique design to the global watch world. The watch represents three different stages of Schwarzenegger’s life; his time as a bodybuilding athlete, a worldfamous action actor and a remarkable politician and governor of California. Our other celebrity cooperation is with the Brazilian soccer player Neymar, the youngest soccer star, captain of the Brazilian team and player of the Barcelona stars team. The Neymar watch also has a unique design and is supported by our leading brand, Champion, which, due to its naming, has a totally synergy with Neymar. All the watches are Swiss-Made, with sapphire glass and the best quality materials available on the market.

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Jack Magid, Director of Magnum.

What principles define the brand? Quality, affordability and accessibility. What is the company record that you are most proud of? The launch of the Champion interchangeable watch, which sold more than five million pieces in three years. And at Magnum Group, we are very proud of our industrial unit in Amazonas; it is among the ten largest, most modern plants in the world, responsible for the production of some of the biggest hits of the world’s watch industry. Locally, we employ more than 600 people. Why were Arnold Schwarzenegger and Neymar chosen to represent the brand? Neymar is an iconic Brazilian superstar who is conquering the world with his magic on the field. With his young trendsetting personality, he is the perfect match for Champion. With almost 16 million followers on Instagram, Neymar decided to come up with his own watch and has chosen Champion

and Magnum Group to make it happen. As a global celebrity and beloved in many countries, we expect Neymar to be a driving force from a sell-out standpoint for our distributors and retailers. How about Schwarzenegger? The Arnold Schwarzenegger project, which has been two years in the making, has been an amazing challenge. In an environment where big watch companies may be more than a century old, Magnum Group, a 25-year-old Brazilian company, we’re proud to be chosen by Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger. His reasons were plentiful – our high quality mind-set, professionalism, respect and young spirit were determining factors – and we are proud to showcase a collection that carries Schwarzenegger’s DNA in absolutely every single watch. Do you have a motto for your business? It is quite simple: Doing the best we can every day. 1.2, B49

GAGÀ MILANO BRINGS EXCITING TIMEPIECES TO BASELWORLD C R E AT I V I T Y A N D C O L O U R D E F I N E T H E N E W W AT C H E S by William George Shuster

Manuale Cristal 48MM, GaGà Milano.

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he creative Italian luxury watch brand, founded in 2004, is debuting several exciting timepieces at Baselworld 2015, staying true to its roots. Back in the 1950s, the Milanese dialect coined the term “gagà” to describe a person who attaches great importance to his or her dress, fashionconscious down to the last detail. The expression remains in use, and is the source of inspiration for the GaGà brand. The Manuale Cristal 48MM is its first with a hand-wound skeletonized move movement. The watch, with colourful appliappli que numbers and crown at 12 o’ clock,

the brand’s trademark, has small seconds and comes in stainless steel or gold plated case measuring 48 mm in diameter. To allow for viewing the movement it is outfitted with a pane of sapphire in the case back. The Manuale Chrono 48MM has two chrono buttons on either side of the case which lends it an edgy design. Inside ticks a Swiss quartz movement. The rubber band completes the sporty look. The new Lady Sport provides a touch of glamour for any occasion. It’s colourful silicone strap, with a stylized seahorse, and 2.0, B39 variety of colour.

asio again targets lovers of the great outdoors with its new Pro Trek PRW-3500Y-1AER Cerro San Clemente. Diverse functions make it an ideal companion for many varieties of outdoor sports such as hiking, climbing or mountain biking. Though its styling looks simple at first glance, closer scrutiny discovers a well-thought-out play of colours. The vivid dark blue of the lateral operat-

ing elements recurs on the bezel and in other details of this watch, whilst the case and bracelet are kept in basic black. The “Cerro San Clemente” is also appealing, thanks to its robust good looks. The rotatable bezel is made of metal, and the wind rose adds obvious accents with bold markings for the wind’s directions. Like its predecessor, this model, too, is equipped with the newest generation of the Triple Sensor, which combines a digital compass, an altimeter and a thermometer/barometer. The tidy digital display in black and white lets the user speedily read all of the important information. As usual, the new Pro Trek also includes other functions. It can receive radio broadcasts in the EU, the U.S., Japan and China, it shows the times of sunrise and sunset, and it offers a stopwatch, a countdown timer and five alarms. Tough Solar technology keeps this wristwatch independent of the electrical grid for up to 23 months. The case 1.2, B13 is watertight to 200 metres.

The spirit of the outdoors at Baselworld.

A MINIMALIST APPROACH TO BEAUTY M O M O D E S I G N C E L E B R AT E S I T S O R I G I N by William George Shuster

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t Baselworld 2015, Momodesign celebrates its original watch – the Essentiale men’s – with two new lines: Essential Heritage and Essential Sport. The Momodesign Style Centre created the timepiece in the 1980s. The minimalist creation featured a thin black and white disc, with four dots on the dial and two hands. The design was so impressive, it was showcased at the Museum of Modern Art in New York City. The new Essential lines are a modern interpretation of the original. Both are made in Italy, use a Swiss-Made movement, feature an anti-glare sapphire crystal, minimalist styling and are water-resistant to 50 metres. Their austere dials feature the brand name at 12 o’clock, under the iconic steering wheel and “Essential” at 6 o’clock. Essential Heritage features a thin round 40-mm stainless steel case, optionally with black PVD, inspired by the original model’s design. The timepiece is available with a black or white

dial, coordinated with a brown or black leather strap with contrasting stitching. Essential Sport combines elegant design with a sporty touch and is available in different versions. Those who want a more classic look can choose dials light or dark gray, with tone-on-tone details. Those seeking a sporty-chic look can opt for black or blue dials with colourful details. Its 42-mm stainless steel case comes with black or ruthenium PVD treatment, on a genuine leather strap. 2.0, B51 Essential Heritage, Momodesign.

watch model: MASCOMA | WWW.TBL-WATCHES.COM

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are trademarks of TBL Licensing LLC. © 2015 TBL Licensing LLC. All rights reserved.

WATCHES 39

DA I LY N E W S

OBSERVATORY TIME THOMAS MERCER WITH NEW MARINE C H R O N O M E T E R I N H I G H -T E C H C A S E by Elizabeth Doerr

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homas Mercer is a boutique brand named for the nineteenth-century British watchmaker, whose legacy firm had made one third of all chronometers in history by 1980, just before it closed its doors. It was revived in 2012, and now specialises in rare, limited high-precision table clocks and marine chronometers. Here at Baselworld, Thomas Mercer introduces within its Observatory chronometer new Calibre TM3001, a double fusée and chain-driven movement boasting 30 days’ worth of power reserve. It is also equipped with an exceedingly rare flying détente tourbillon escapement. The chronometer

movement includes the following functions: perpetual calendar including a display of the equation of time, 24-hour day/night indication, year and leap year indicator, display of the zodiac as well as the age and phase of the moon. It also includes a jumping 24-time zone display on the dial characterised by an off-centre display of hours, minutes, and seconds. The dial presents the same combination of woods that the case does alongside a fine grainage. The winding and setting mechanisms are placed directly within the bezel, which has a lever on top that also serves as the start and stop system. The case is equally refined and impressive at 550 mm in diameter and 330 mm in height. It is equipped with the double gimbal suspension that has always visually distinguished marine chronometers from other timekeepers. This particular example is a fusion between advanced machining and the very best of cabinetry with its asymmetric body of stainless steel adorned with fine, high-gloss Ziricote and Santos rosewood Palace, 1D inlay and rock crystal.

Observatory, Thomas Mercer.

Memoris, Louis Moinet.

CHRONOGRAPH PRIDE L O U I S M O I N E T H O N O U R S I T S T EC H N I C A L H E R I TAG E WITH AN INCREDIBLE TIME WRITER by Elizabeth Doerr

BACK FROM BEYOND ARNOLD & SON MAKERS R E V I V E V I N TAG E A N G E L U S B R A N D by Elizabeth Doerr

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n 1891, the Stolz brothers founded Angelus in Le Locle. It wasn’t long before they were manufacturing wristwatches – especially chronographs – early on in the company’s history. Today the vintage Angelus name continues to be associated primarily with stopwatches powered by its own calibres. By 1978 – despite new ideas and concepts – Angelus had fallen victim to the quartz crisis. Today, all that is left of this manufacturer of excellent chronographs is a highly visible sign featuring the Angelus

logo on the old factory in Le Locle, until the makers behind Arnold & Son bought the name thirty years after it had gone dormant. Here at Baselworld, they are introducing the first modern Angelus: the U10 Tourbillon Lumière. Like with Arnold & Son, the team headed up by technical whiz Dr. Sébastien Chaulmontet, has taken a revered, historical brand and reinterpreted it with cues from the past. And so the U10 Tourbillon Lumière pays respect to Angelus’ period travel clocks in the shape of its case and to 1960s-1970s design with the funky dial. The timepiece displays hours, minutes, and dead beat seconds – the latter an Arnold & Son speciality. An oversized oneminute tourbillon is visible in a second window, thus sharing the spotlight with the time display. The U10 Tourbillon Lumière kicks off the Angelus’ new Urban collection with a limited edition of 25 Palace, 4E pieces.

U10 Tourbillon Lumière, Angelus.

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ouis Moinet CEO and Creative Director Jean-Marie Schaller made a historic announcement just before Baselworld 2013 opened its doors, one that was backed up by an elite panel of noted historians in the watch industry: it had come to light that Nicolas Rieussec (1781-1866) was not the inventor of the chronograph, an accepted fact from 1821 up to that point. Instead, a historical artefact now uncovered showed that Louis Moinet not only invented the chronograph, but was probably the first to successfully dabble in very high frequencies. The ‘Important Watches’ sale held at Geneva’s Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues on May 14, 2012 contained the previously unknown Louis Moinet compteur de tierces, which went virtually unnoticed. Schaller was able to acquire it and have experts put it into working order, at which point the enormity of the find became highly visible. The chronograph – rooted in the Greek words chronos (time) and graphein (to write) – is the most popular complication in watchmaking today, and its invention has allowed us to time all kinds of events throughout history. The Moinet stopwatch, which resembles the modern chronograph much more closely than Rieussec’s boxlike invention, dates back to 1816 and sat literally untouched for decades in a safe. Moinet’s timer, invented for astronomical use, should have been rightfully called a chronoscope – using instead the Greek word skopein, meaning ‘to see’, rather than graphein – since it did not leave ink on the dial. It was able to measure 1/60th of a second, indicated by the central hand on the pocket watch-

style timepiece, and ran at an astounding frequency of 30 Hz (216,000 vph) – something that would not be achieved again for a century. Two years later, in 2015, perfectly timed to fall between the tenth anniversary of the modern boutique brand and the bicentennial of the original piece, Louis Moinet has finally introduced a timepiece that pays homage to the 1816 compteur de tierces. Called the Memoris, it too places emphasis on the chronograph function rather than the time-telling function. Schaller has an interesting viewpoint: not to see the chronograph as a complication, but rather as the primary function; it is a ‘watch chronograph’ rather than a ‘watch’.

“Our starting point was the opposite: sweeping away the past and making the chronograph the starting point of our design; the central component to which we then added a time function, rather than the other way around,” said Schaller. Louis Moinet’s Memoris chronograph – which dominates the display visuals in addition to the mechanics – contains traditional column wheel and clutch components as well as just one single chronograph pusher. The former is visible through the sapphire crystal on the front at the place of pride: 12 o’clock. The latter is visible at 2 o’clock on the 46-mm case, just above the crown. The Memoris is available in white or rose gold in a limited edition of Palace, 6B just 60 pieces each.

CL O S E U P: L O U I S M O INE T Louis Moinet lived from 1768 to 1853. He was a French master watchmaker, scholar, painter, sculptor, and teacher at Paris’ school of fine arts. Moinet published his Nouveau Traité Générale Astronomique et Civil d’Horlogerie Théorique et Pratique in 1848, a landmark publication and reference book in two volumes that took him twenty years to write. It was recently established that he is also the inventor of the chronograph (1816) and pioneered the use of very high frequencies (up to 216,000 vph/30 Hz). Ateliers Louis Moinet was founded in Saint-Blaise, Switzerland in 2004 by Jean-Marie Schaller and Micaela Bartolucci, two veterans of the watch industry. It retains its independent character to this day.

Jean-Marie Schaller and Micaela Bartolucci, Louis Moinet.

WATCHES 41

DA I LY N E W S

TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015

浪琴青睐实用复杂功能

文、图/康威凯

浪琴（Longines）表2015年新 品，这是赢得市场的基础。浪琴各系 列产品，无论尺寸、壳形、材质、 机芯、打磨、佩戴舒适度、实用功 能……优雅的设计与中国人内敛的精 神世界不谋而合，正如2015年浪琴推 出的最新一代康铂系列月相腕表，必 会在2015年掀起新的消费热潮。它具 有日期、星期、月份显示，即所谓“ 全历显示”，还有多功能计时及月相 显示，非常具有玩赏性。玫瑰金与不 锈钢相间款式及玫瑰金款式代表着浪 琴品牌的高端产品线，表壳的设计大 多采用曲线+镜面抛光的处理手法，这 要比直线条的设计难以加工得多。无 论在正装还是运动时佩戴都很合适， 金属链带款式即使在盛夏佩戴也不用 担心出汗的困扰。通过浪琴新品我们 可以看出，实用复杂功能是近年行业 的热点。何谓“实用复杂功能”？一 方面要突出实用，离使用者的生活不 能太远，售价不能过于昂贵，与以“ 陀飞轮、三问报时、万年历”为首的 高级复杂功能有一定区别，也更大众 化。另外，确实又是复杂功能，无论 从盘面设置、机芯结构能够让广大表 迷和消费者感受到瑞士传统制表的魅 力，这是一般日历功能及以下的普通 腕表所无法比拟的。在成熟的钟表市 场，实用复杂功能是未来一段时间的 主流。

26毫米或33毫米精钢表壳，表 圈镶嵌明亮式切割钻石，精钢表 带，珍珠母贝表盘，刻度镶嵌明 亮式切割钻石；33毫米款搭载自 动上链机械机芯，时、分、秒三 针显示；26毫米款搭载石英机 芯，时、分、秒三针显示。

2014年是中国钟表市场深度调整的 一年，持续数年的两位数增长风光不 再，甚至出现了有些惊人的下滑。行 业内的氛围变得严酷而现实起来，各 种风花雪月烟消云散。在这样的大环 境下，哪个品牌在中国市场可谓“一 枝独秀”2014年依然取得销售佳绩？ 那一定是浪琴。很多人会说：浪琴表 价格适中，以普通中国民众的消费水 平大多可以承受，所以业绩不凡。我 想说：这只是一方面，而且是比较次 要的方面。中国市场上与浪琴均价相 当的品牌有几十个，为何是浪琴拔得 头筹？ 浪琴品牌早在1867年就已进入中国 市场，此后无论在中国的哪个时代， 人们对浪琴的认知度非常之高。如今 久负盛名的浪琴品牌没有骄傲，因为 市场瞬息万变，并非老一代人推崇的 品牌就能同样被新人接受和认可。近 二十年间，很多曾经叱咤风云的品牌 都难觅踪迹了，所以光靠吃老本肯定 不行。浪琴有何制胜秘诀？——通 过一系列复刻腕表或重塑经典表款的 推出，既让老顾客找回激情燃烧的岁 月，又融合当代设计细节，开拓年轻 市场。这样的表款无形中消除了人与 人之间的代沟，体现传承。即使是最 新款的康铂系列腕表，也能从它身上 找到无数浪琴的经典元素，十分耐看。 浪琴的品牌形象大使——郭富城

与林志玲被公认为选得最好，明星的 个人气质与品牌精神非常契合。即使 如此，浪琴依然在2014年公布了全新 品牌大使——彭于晏，此举非常有魄 力！看得出浪琴十分重视新一代消费 群体，并选取他们心中普遍认可的优 雅标杆来为自己代言。还有一点，彭 于晏的代言是与郭富城并行的，不是 以新代旧，照顾了老客人的感受。当 彭于晏第一次作为浪琴品牌大使出现 在公众面前时，人们惊喜地发现他佩 戴的正是浪琴2015年新款之康铂月相 腕表。

多功能计时及月 相玫瑰金与不锈 钢相间款式

多功能计时及月相玫瑰金款式

不忘初心也不忘创新—宝格丽2015新系列 作 者：敬 静 经常在各类心灵鸡汤鸡血里听到这 个说法——“不忘初心”，初心是什么 呢? 时代发展得一日千里，我们为什么 还一直要盯着初心不放呢？初心，应该 就是最最开始时为什么我们要做这件事 的心意吧，应该就是从一件事情诞生那 一天起就浸染在DNA里，用以和别人 区别开来的最重要的特质吧。一个人守 着初心，无论世事如何变迁，坚守和坚 持都会依然在；一个品牌守着初心，无 论各种系列如何发展、技术如何更迭， 那些最打动人心的仍然是它骨子里透出 出来的独特之处。

18K玫瑰金或白金 表壳，表圈与表链 镶嵌明亮式切割钻 石：镶嵌明亮式切 割钻石的白金表链 或鳄鱼皮表带；珍 珠母贝表盘，刻度 镶嵌明亮式切割钻 石。自动上链机械 机芯，时、分、秒 三针显示。

每一年的表展我们都能见到许多复 刻的表款，很多人都爱这种追忆过去 的调调。但是这个方式只能是偶尔为 之，用来满足忠粉的怀旧需求，但毕 竟我们不能总是活在上一段感情里， 面对腕表这么美好的东西，“新款” 永远是大家翘首期盼的。所以，如何 守着初心又不停创新就是最见功力的 游戏。 说实话，去年宝格丽的DIVA系 列珠宝腕表真是让所有的女人大呼过 瘾，那宝石，那配色，那设计，会让 女人一下子从茫茫人海中看见它，就 和它的名字一样的气场强大、夺人魂 魄。而今年宝格丽的新款女表则完全 走的FINE Jewelry 的路子，推出的全 部是日常佩戴的实用款。 虽然和去年比起来让我有些小小的 失落，但是3个系列的整体风格非常统 一，时髦又易带，让我一秒由去年的 欣赏心态变成了眼下的买家，真是一 冲动就会买的节奏。 最难能可贵的是，这些设计简洁现 代都市感很强的设计，却体现出品牌 浓浓的意大利品牌特征，历经2500年 时光沉淀的古城罗马是宝格丽取之不 尽的灵感之源，罗马印记被很好的用 当代的设计所演绎，不惊艳却耐看。 2015年是宝格丽迎来品牌标志性作 品BVLGARI BVLGARI系列的40周年， 所以BB系列的新款对于今年来说是必 推的。这一系列自诞生之日就带着品 牌最古老的DNA——来自古罗马万神 殿的灵感赋予了它大气高贵的气质，

优雅神圣的环形建筑赋予它自然流畅 的线条，更将圆形生生不息与和谐 永恒的寓意蕴于其中。镌刻于圆环上 的“BVLGARI BVLGARI”双LOGO标 识，不仅彰显着宝格丽家族的姓氏， 亦代表着宝格丽向品牌根源罗马城的 致敬。2015年新款在经典之上加入了 精妙的创新元素，干净利落的线条令 表款更具现代感。宝石蓝色表盘搭配 精钢表链或鳄鱼皮表带，全新41毫米 直径的BVLGARI BVLGARI腕表展现出 前所未有的摩登感；同系列26毫米及 31毫米的女士表款则以精钢与钻石来 突显女性的优雅与利落。 Octo系列的灵感同样来自于永 恒之城罗马：Octo以罗马马克森提 斯殿内部的八边形结构为灵感，以 独特的八边形设计彰显古老渊源，优 雅地表述着意式纯粹美学的平衡与和 谐。2015年新款38毫米Octo腕表以宝 石蓝色表盘引领风尚，搭载宝格丽自 产Solotempo自动上链机芯，搭配精 钢表链或鳄鱼皮表带，这种有点中性 的设计其实非常得大都市的女人心。 名字来自于意大利语“luce” ( 光) 与拉丁语“lux” (奢华) 相结合的 VCEA女士腕表系列是去年才推出的新 系列，同样是历史传承与现代风格、 设计美感与出众性能的完美融合。结 合了珠宝的华美与时计的精准于一 身，一看就是宝格丽大胆而鲜明的名 门之女，今年的新款提供了更多材质 的混搭选择。

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APPARENTLY, NAMING IT THE GOMELSKY DIDN’T MAKE THINGS COMPLICATED ENOUGH.

INTRODUCING THE GOMELSKY MOONPHASE. THE 36MM GOMELSKY MOONPHASE IN STAINLESS STEEL CASE WITH KHAKI GOLD BEZEL, MOONPHASE COMPLICATION AND DATE WINDOW, CREAM DIAL, DETROIT-BUILT ARGONITE 708 MOVEMENT, AMERICAN-MADE TAN LEATHER STR AP. BUILT TO L AST A LIFETIME OR LONGER UNDER THE TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF THE SHINOL A GUAR ANTEE.

BASELWORLD HALL 1. 2 NEW YORK • DETROIT • MINNE APOLIS • CHICAGO • SHINOL A .COM • LONDON • LOS ANGELES • WASHINGTON DC

BOOTH A 23

MARKETS 45

DA I LY N E W S

TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015

PEARL BUSINESS DEMAND, PRICES RISING AGAIN D E M A N D F R O M CH I N A A N D T H E U.S. L I F T I N G P R I CE S by A x e l H e n s e ld e r

POSITIVE KEY INDICATORS S W AT C H G R O U P B R E A K S 9 B I L L I O N F R A N C T U R N O V E R

photo: Getty images

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higher the quality, the greater the jump fter an extended rocky perireason for this is that the Chinese govin prices. In Tahiti a shortage of pearls od, things are looking up ernment has limited the areas in which sized 8 to 9 mm led to an increase in again for the jewels of the pearl farms can operate. Prices remain at prices. The dark beauties of 15 mm and seas. Demand for high80 percent of the pre-crisis year 2008 above are now very difficult to get hold quality cultured pearls is however, despite the fact that costs of of in good quality. And yet the pearl considerable and prices are rising. production, in particular wages, have farmers are still not According to experts, completely over the the pearl jewellery crisis. Farming has share of overall jewelbecome considerably lery sales in 2014 stood more expensive, with at around 2.1 billion yields falling in some euros. Chinese concases. Demand from sumers in particular Europe and the US in are buying all that is particular has also not good and expensive on yet regained the prethe market. Good to crisis levels. Producvery good qualities are tion volumes were scarcely available at only adjusted to the affordable prices in altered circumstances some sizes. Only for with a significant time commercial qualities is The prices for South Sea pearls have exploded delay, resulting in a there currently suffiin the past four years. For white South Sea pearls surplus on the world cient supply on the market in recent years. global market, which is traders report price increases of 30 to 40 percent, As a consequence, why prices here have in some cases even 100 percent. goods were sometimes risen only moderately. sold below their cost of According to estiproduction. The strong demand from mates, overall sales of salt water pearls risen strongly. There is particular China was unable to wholly compensate in 2014 stood at around 400 million US demand for seeded Chinese freshwater the falls in the traditional sales markets. dollars. Of this 114 million dollars were pearls, as these meet the demand for Now the stocks have been reduced and accounted for by Akoyas, 192 million by perfectly round pearls, including larger cultivation adjusted to the altered sales white South Sea pearls and 94 million sizes. Within the next two years more situation. Experts expect that the penby black South Sea pearls. This is joined than half of the pearls on offer will be dulum will shift in the other direction by the field of freshwater pearls, still a seeded. and that the next three years will see high-volume business. China produces With a market share of 80 percent, not enough produced to satisfy demand. over one billion freshwater pearls a year Japan is the largest producer of salt The prices for South Sea pearls have and dominates this segment. However, water pearls. Tahiti holds a market share exploded in the past four years. For over the last three years, production in of 95 percent for black South Sea pearls, white South Sea pearls, traders report the Middle Kingdom has fallen by 30 producing 11 to 12 tonnes per year. price increases of 30 to 40 percent, in percent and continues to drop. One Here, too, the following applies: the

Pearl farm worker inspects oysters under water in Fiji.

some cases even 100 percent. Here, too, the booming demand from Asia in combination with a fall in pearl production in the past three years is the cause of

the structural deficit. Overall, this makes the jewel of the seas a little rarer. This could also stimulate demand for the jewellery box classics here.

NEWS

by A x e l H e n s e ld e r

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he Swiss Group begins 2015 in spectacular fashion with a new record. The gross sales of the company broke the 9 billion franc barrier in 2014 for the first time, an increase of 4.6 percent over the previous year in spite of negative currency effects. In addition, 3 percent growth in net sales was also achieved, at 8.709 billion francs. In the watch and jewellery segment, gross sales grew by 5.6 percent, net sales by 3.9 percent. Last year Swatch created over 2,100 new jobs, of which 770 were in Switzerland. In the second half of 2014 the luxury goods giant invested more in marketing than ever in the growth markets of the U.S., Japan and China. This led to a fall of over 3 percentage points in the operating margin. The consequence – group profits fell to 1.416 billion francs with net return on sales of 16.3 percent (previous year 22.8 percent). After a strong December 2014 calculated in Swiss francs, 2015 began in a highly-promising manner with an excellent January. The

Swatch Group aims to continue its longterm strategy of investing in innovations, machines, distribution and its employees, as well as further expanding its Swiss production operations. The group is in an excellent position with 20 brands, its own production and a worldwide sales network. Marketing investments and costs of distribution in foreign currencies – or companies such as Harry Winston in the U.S. and Rivoli in the Middle East, whose expenses are also recorded in local currencies – are serving to partially soften the negative effects of the over-valued Swiss franc. In addition, a number of brands of the group are reacting in individual markets with price adjustments of between 5 and 7 percent, which is also partially balancing out the currency situation. The number of patents registered by the Swatch Group reached a new record level again in 2014, which will also be reflected in numerous innovative product launches in all segments in 2015. 1.0, C25

Swatch Group stand in Hall 1.

Cross-channel services are appreciated by many end consumers. However, their actual buying behaviour remains below expectations. These are the findings of a new study conducted by IBM in 19 countries around the world. This shows that considerable potential still remains for traders to fulfil customer expectations and generate more sales. Customers also have specific requests for bricks and mortar retail - e.g., a display of offline availability. Customers want to see if a product is available. This is at the top of the wish list. 60 percent of respondents want to know precisely if their product is actually available before setting off to the shop. 46 percent stated that the staff in the shop should be able to use a mobile device to check immediately if and when a product will be in stock again. Compared to the previous year, this percentage rose by six points. In addition, 44 percent of customers wish to be addressed in the shop where necessary. For 41 percent it is important for staff to be able to offer personalised offers on the basis of their shopping history. Last year this was just 36 percent. (ahe)

46 MARKETS

DA I LY N E W S

TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015 Ring by Swati Kadam, winner in the Artisan Award category “Monochromatic Magic”.

INDIAN GEM AND JEWELLERY EXPORTS ENTER CHALLENGING PHASE O I L P R I C E S A N D W E A K E U R O Z O N E M A R K E T S C O M P L I C AT E O U T L O O K F O R I N D I A N G E M A N D J E W EL L E R Y E X P O R T S, B U T D O ME S T I C M A R K E T IS R O B U S T A HE A D O F W ED D IN G SE A S O N by Pooja Agarwal

I

ndian gem and jewellery exporters, who face a challenging year in 2015 due to a gloomy economic outlook in key markets, see Baselworld as a major opportunity to capture new business. India’s gem and jewellery exports have seen remarkable growth over the past 50 years, representing $34.75 billion for fiscal year 2013-14, according to the latest figures from the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC). India has risen to prominence in manufacturing and processing diamonds by developing skills over generations and by using the latest technologies at state-of-the-art factories, and being dynamic in sales.

BIG IN DIAMONDS

Necklace by Soni Amin, second runner up in one of the categories of the GJEPC’s Artisan Award.

Eleven out of every 12 diamonds set in jewellery worldwide are processed in India, typically in diamond factories in Mumbai and Surat. Diamonds account for 56.5 percent of India’s total export basket of the industry, with gold jewellery contributing 31.8 percent. The United Arab Emirates (UAE) (47 percent), Hong Kong (24 percent) and the United States (11 percent) are the major buyers of Indian gem and jewellery exports, according to GJEPC figures. These key markets are facing turbulent times due to a combination of challenging economic factors. Indian gem and jewellery exports have been hit by the impact of the recent drop in oil prices, as Middle Eastern buyers are now more cautious. Indian exporters have not been able to take advantage of the weak rupee against the dollar, because of weak demand in international markets. Vipul Shah, Chairman of the GJEPC, says that European markets for Indian gemstones and jewellery had been slow due to the euro zone crisis and concerns over Greek debt. He says he is pinning his hopes on achieving good results for the India Pavilion, presenting eleven manufacturers at Baselworld. With a

Winning object in the Artisan Award category “Golden Glory” by Meghna Bag.

focus on quality, Indian exhibitors are presenting the best of their collections. “Europe is undoubtedly a significant trade partner for India, and Baselworld is the optimum platform for India to

INDIA’S EXPORT OF COLOURED GEMSTONES Millions of U.S. dollars 700

653

600 519

500

create awareness for Brand India and to interact with key international players from across the globe.” Exhibitors of loose diamonds and gemstones are situated in Hall 3.1: Aditya Gems (3.1, N03), Arihant Star (3.1, N07), M. Tarun Diamonds Pvt. Ltd (3.1, N05), Sejal Exports (3.1, N09), Hari Darshan Exports (3.1, N10), Diasqua India Pvt. Ltd (3.1, N21), Sabir Jewellers (3.1, N11), and Gemporium (3.1, N15). Jewellery exhibitors can be found in Hall 2.1: Livingstones (2.1, N83), KGK Creations (2.1, M80), and Hari Krishna Designs (2.1, N82). There is also a special display of the jewellery that recently won GJEPC’s Artisan Awards 2014.

meet demand for the wedding and festival season. Manufacturers said much of the recent demand from retailers was to re-stock before the April-June wedding season, with “temple jewellery” still popular, especially in more traditional retail markets such as southern India. Jewellers, however, have complained about a gold import duty at a record high of 10 percent. India is the world’s top buyer of gold, and the high duty has made illegal shipments profitable. Indians buy an average of 2.3 tonnes of jewellery a day and imports can hit up to 1,000 tonnes a year, draining foreign currency. The previous government had raised the duty in 2013 to try to control a ballooning current account deficit, but the high duty had encouraged gold smuggling, jewellers said. The World Gold Council estimates that 175 tonnes of gold were smuggled into the country last year. Earlier this month, Indian jewellers threatened to go on strike over a government plan that would require

customers to quote their tax code for major purchases. But jewellers say around 80 percent of the $122 billion industry’s business comes from rural customers, mainly in the agriculture sector, who lack a permanent account number (PAN), which is used to prevent tax evasion. In his recent budget, Finance Minister Arun Jaitley said PAN would become compulsory for sales of more than 100,000 rupees ($1,592) to prevent the circulation of “black money” – a key political challenge for Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s 10-month-old government. India is pinning its hopes for its future success in exporting gems and jewellery on the skills of its designers. Every year the India International Jewellery Week (IIJW) is held in Mumbai to showcase the skills of the country’s most talented designers. Catwalk shows with a “Bollywood” flavour, present jewellery with the latest cutting-edge design.

INDIA’S GOLD JEWELLERY AND GOLD MEDALLIONS EXPORTS Millions of U.S. dollars

18274

18,000

16786

16,000 14,000 12702 12,000

11046 9679

10,000 8746 8,000

400

193

234

247

261

287

315

100 0 2004-05

2005-06

2006-07

2007-08

2008-09

2009-10

2010-11

2011-12

2012-13

2013-14

Indian manufacturers said they expected to do well in the U.S. market this year as the recovery of the world’s largest economy gathers momentum. In the domestic Indian market, demand linked to the wedding seasons for gems and jewellery, notably 22-carat yellow gold, was firm. Imports of gold jumped in February to

6,000 4,000

5209 3784

3882

2004-05

2005-06

5562

Source: GJEPC India

276

GOLD IMPORTS INCREASE

344

Source: GJEPC India

300 200

Sanjay Kothari, Vice Chairman of KGK Group.

2,000 0 2006-07

2007-08

2008-09

2009-10

2010-11

2011-12

2012-13

2013-14

JEWELLERY

DA I LY N E W S

TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015

EXQUISITE EMERALDS AT HARRY WINSTON A G O R G E O U S J E W E L L E R Y S U I T E AT T H E K I N G O F D I A M O N D S by N i n a H a ld

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efore the Swatch Groupowned brand Harry Winston became known for complicated watches, the American diamond merchant – known under the moniker of “King of Diamonds” – made his name with gemstones of superlative colours. Even though fancy, intense and vivid coloured diamonds held his heart, he also had a passion for emeralds, rubies and sapphires. Harry Winston was indeed a man of many brilliant facets much like the rare gemstones and precious jewels he had the good fortune to build his life and company around. An innate gemmologist, an intuitive businessman, a dedicated philanthropist, and perhaps the ultimate risk-taker, Harry Winston’s career was marked by daring adventures and headline-grabbing tales of the world’s most exceptional diamonds and gemstones, encounters with heads of state and red carpet royalty, industry wide “firsts,” and an innovative design philosophy that forever changed the way in which fine jewellery could and should be worn. As the son of a small jewellery shop owner, Harry Winston was introduced to jewellery from a very early age, and quickly began to demonstrate a natural eye and strong sense of intuition for evaluating the quality and potential of gemstones. At the age of 12 years, he spotted a 2-carat emerald at a local pawn shop, amidst a tray of junk jewellery. Knowing what he had found, Harry Winston purchased what the shop owner

50 WINTER BLOSSOMS Ring with 5.1 carats of Colombian emeralds, and 2.06 carats of diamonds.

Preparation for the upcoming winter season are already on the way at Swarovski. Creative Director Nathalie Colin reveals what customers can already look forward to.

52 GOLD STRUCK

Stephen Webster talks about his passion for the precious metal and his new collection which will also be featured in the Museum of London.

56 ROCK IT

The German pearl expert Gellner presents pearl jewellery for ladies and gents. Managing Director Jörg Gellner has the latest details.

65 CELEBRATE LIFE

The Belgian brand Hulchi Belluni creates jewellery with positive life-force as the key element.

66 PLAYFUL GLAMOUR

Cocktail rings started out as a symbol of feminine independence. Today they are sure to jazz up any outfit.

71 TECHNOLOGY OF TODAY Necklace wizh 42.93 carats of Colombian emeralds, and 35.46 carats of diamonds.

thought to be a worthless piece of costume jewellery for just 25 cents – only to sell it two days later for 800 dollars. Throughout the course of his career, it is estimated that Harry Winston owned more than one-third of the world’s most famous and coveted diamonds. Often purchased as rough stones, in the hands of Harry Winston

these incredible stones were transformed into legendary gems. The gemstones, rather than metal would dictate the design, and this timeless aesthetic remains one of the cornerstones that inspire all Harry Winston designs today. At Baselworld, a magnificent jewellery set of emeralds is shown to demon-

JEWELLERY APPEALING TO BILLIONAIRES J E W E L L E R Y T H E AT R E ’ S S A L E S M A N A G E R G A Z E L L E F I R O U Z T A L K S O F T H E B R A N D ’ S I D E N T I T Y A N D C R E AT I V I T Y I n t e r v i e w by N i n a H a ld

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There are more billionaires in the world today than ever before. What was once considered the divine right of kings and emperors is now becoming quite commonplace. With the invention of the Internet, we get overwhelmed with so much information on a daily basis, that we have become desensitised to things that might have one day appeared as wildly extravagant to us.

rom a specially developed “heel” of the signature rings to the asymmetrical shapes: RussianBritish Jewellery Theatre has successfully carved a niche for the brand by showcasing creative, innovative designs that appeal to the imagination of luxury connoisseurs and billionaires. BWDN: What principles define the brand? Gazelle Firouz: The concept of “theatre” has always been an important part of our brand’s identity. The theatre combines various types of art – music, drama, painting, architecture and sculpture – which creates a unique atmosphere, in which our jewellery pieces play their parts. Jewellery Theatre’s main principle is creativity. By encouraging our artists to pour their heart and soul into each

HIGHLIGHTS

Jewellery Theatre’s Sales Manager Gazelle Firouz.

piece they create, we ensure that the creativity and craftsmanship of our workshop is second to none. How does the wildly extravagant fit in to today’s world?

How do you set your favourite gemstones? Naturally shaped baroque tanzanite pieces are probably our favourite. We pride ourselves on being able to make big precious stones look delicate and dainty. This illusion is often achieved by hand matching and colour-blending fine pavé-set stones to reflect the colours naturally occurring in the central stone.

strate the expertise with coloured stones – and this is also a subtle way to honour the first major gemstone buy of the young Harry Winston. Set in platinum and 18 karat gold, surrounded by pear, round and marquise-cut diamonds are some exquisite Colombian emerald-cut emeralds, only 1.0, D23 minorly enhanced.

The company has also developed and patented a special “heel”, which allows each of our rings to stand upright and speak for itself, like a mini sculpture. This invention is the result of lengthy research into balancing asymmetrical shapes. No Jewellery Theatre ring is symmetrical – but yet they are all perfectly balanced.

Working with CAD software is an integral part of a jeweller’s work. In Hall 4.U, manufacturers offer a wide variety of the latest updates.

75 THE ART OF CARVING

Some gemstones are faceted, some are cut into cabochons – and some are turned into true pieces of art.

In your opinion, what is good design? Practically speaking, there is good commercial design, which provides high sales figures and good technological design, which ensures ease of production. When it comes to fine jewellery though, good design must differentiate you from your competitors and create an emotional response from your audience. 2.2, E10

What rules does the company thrive by? As a commitment to fine art, we work only with precious stones and metals of the highest quality. This allows us to create investment-grade pieces which will never go out of style. In your opinion, what is an iconic design of Jewellery Theatre? The unique aspect of our brand is the originality of our designs, which differ vastly not only from our colleagues, but also from one collection to the next. One of our most iconic pieces is the Polar Bear pendant from our Animals collection. The bear’s body is actually a uniquely shaped baroque pearl, which only came to life due to the creativity and imagination of our artists.

Pendant from the Rainforest collection with a 8.25 carat tourmaline, diamonds, yellow sapphires, tsavorites and moonstones, set in gold.

50 JEWELLERY

DA I LY N E W S

TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015

“WE BELIEVE IN ROUND NECKLACES”

Design drafts for the upcoming fall/winter season 2015/2016.

WINTER BLOSSOMS AND ENGLISH MANORS ARE I N S P I R AT I O N S F O R N E W S AWA R O V S K I M U S T- H AV E S Interview by Christel Trimborn

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carcely has spring shown its face, the forthcoming winter season is already being discussed at Swarovski. This is characterised by floral garden motifs. Nathalie Colin, Creative Director at Swarovski, spoke to BWDN about the future trends that customers worldwide can already look forward to. BWDN: The new collection for autumn/winter 2015/2016 is called Winter Gardens. Is nature an endless source of inspiration? Nathalie Colin: Yes, it is a continuation of the story we started to tell in spring/ summer 2015 – inspired by nature in general and especially by flowers and gardens. For the winter collection we have two main directions: one is very modern, urban and sleek – it is a kind of a frozen garden style. The other line has a vintage twist and a rather decorative and ornamental angle. It is mainly inspired by English manors. How does this inf luence the colour scheme? Violet, berry tones, purple – all these colours are mixed together. Rose gold is also featured strongly, you can find it in both interpretations. One is more rose

ing them in this con context in the coming season.

gold with clear crystal and the other one combines rose gold and black jet stones.

Is the co-operation between Swarovski and international designers also a story that is set to be continued? Yes, the Atelier Swarovski, managed by Nadja Swarovski, is a continuing platform. Every season she invites international designers to work with the company. One of the collaborations for the upcoming winter season is with the British designer Shaune Leane. For many years he has been designing for Alexander McQueen – his jewellery always has this rock attitude. I think it is fantastic.

What type of jewellery do you consider as the must-have of the coming season? Concerning necklaces we are pretty sure that jewellery will follow the trend in apparel where you can see a lot of round necklines. So I believe very much in round necklaces, whether they are rather small and simple or big and very rich. Interesting enough: the round necklace used to be a very classical piece of jewellery and now it is all hype! We read a lot about bangles making a comeback. Do you see that happening? Absolutely. Last year we already had a strong focus on a styling trend called bangle-mania. And this trend is definitely continuing. We have a lot of metallic bracelets in various widths and forms, which can be combined with one another. And the same goes for watches, by the way, that’s another huge trend. For me it is important that there is a link between jewellery and watches, they have to tell the same design story. Swarovski has long regarded its watches as more of a fashion accessory than a timepiece and we will also be present-

Are there still markets that are not that developed regarding the Swarovski brand? First of all: Swarovski is represented all around the world, in over 140 countries on all five continents. But there are regions where we think we can grow even more. For example Russia or India, which has a very long tradition of jewellery but maybe a more recent tradition of fashion jewellery. This gives us a good chance to come up with something very 1.1, C21 different.

Nathalie Colin, Creative Director of Swarovski.

Cross pendant by Corinna Heller.

KINETICS, SYMBOLISM AND 3D JEWELLERY T H R E E G E R M A N D E S I G N C O M PA N I E S P R E S E N T T H E I R C O L L E C T I O N S AT B A S E L W O R L D F O R T H E F I R S T T I M E by Christel Trimborn

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aselworld offers us opportunities for many stimulating discussions with international leads. The Chinese audience is particularly enthusiastic about our kinetic jewellery”, says Claudia Schmedding. Together with her creative partner Andreas Lehmann, Schmedding is one of three Germans who are presenting their work in the design pavilion. The kinetic, purist, straight-lined pieces of jewellery that these two partners are showing at Baselworld were created in collaboration with Barbara Schulte-Hengesbach, who is both a business associate and a family relative of Lehmann and Schmedding. The designer Corinna Heller is likewise exhibiting in Basel for the first time. She is showing jewellery that is strongly influenced by symbols such as hearts and crosses. Heller sums up her experiences from the first few days at the fair in positive terms: “I’ve had exciting conversations with potential

Kinetic ring by Barbara Schulte-Hengesbach.

Colourful rings made of plastic cords and set with pearls by Monika Seitter. From left: Claudia Schmedding, Monika Seitter, Corinna Heller, and Andreas Lehmann.

clients whose stores not only carry design jewellery but also fashion and accessories, and who are interested in creating a network among designers.” Monika Seitter, the third German in the group, likewise made promising new contacts during the first several days at Baselworld, e.g. with clients from China and Russia. Her 3D

jewellery is a source of particular astonishment. “Many customers tell me they’ve never before seen jewellery of this kind”, she says. The second jewellery concept, which Monika Seitter has offered for quite some time and which she continually expands and revises, is surely easier to ‘comprehend’. After arranging to have coloured plastic cords developed especially for her, she now uses these cords as ring bands, which she embellishes with gold settings contain-

ing gemstones, diamonds or pearls. “We’re delighted by the positive responses that our jewellery has received”, Andreas Lehmann summarizes. “Enthusiastic feedback from visitors confirms that our work is greeted with interest, also in the international arena.” Monika Seitter is similarly thinking about returning to exhibit at Baselworld again next year. “I believe that it’s important to be present here for at least a few years in order to estab2.1, M86 lish mutual confidence.”

© 2015 BAYCO JEWELS LLC. PHOTOGRAPHED EXCLUSIVELY FOR BAYCO BY BRIAN MOGHADAM

HALL 1.1 STAND E09 WWW.BAYCO.COM

The Red Star

A MAJESTIC RING CENTERED UPON A MARVELOUS 13 CARAT OVAL "PIGEON'S BLOOD" BURMA RUBY FLANKED BY SHIELD DIAMONDS.

52 JEWELLERY

DA I LY N E W S

TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015

IT’S ALL ABOUT GOLD A HIDDEN TRE ASURE INSPIRED THE BRITISH DESIGNER S T E P H E N W E B S T E R T O C R E AT E H I S N E W C O L L E C T I O N Interview by Christel Trimborn

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tephen Webster makes no secret of his obsession with gold. Just the opposite, in fact: his latest collection celebrates this precious metal – and also fêtes his own career as a jeweller. BWDN: Your new collection is named Gold Struck. What is its underlying idea? Stephen Webster: Actually, it was inspired by an exhibition I saw at the Museum of London last year. The show was called ‘The Cheapside Hoard’, which is the world’s largest collection of Elizabethan and Jacobean jewellery. When I was a 16-year-old apprentice in this part of London many years ago, everybody knew about this treasure, which lay hidden under the floorboards of a jeweller’s shop for over 300 years until it was discovered by workmen in 1912. A tremendous trove of different gems and components from all over the British Empire and the New World, it also includes all kinds of techniques that are still used today. How did that discovery affect the design of the pieces of jewellery? I didn’t want to make a collection inspired by those pieces, but by the spirit of discovering something. So the design is very much about something that has spilled out. The pieces are quite deconstructed and do not have a very symmetrical look. I used a lot of

exotic gemstones and different materials – you could have found nearly all of them in the Cheapside Hoard. What is really interesting, though, is that the Museum of London, which showed the exhibition last year, is going to show my collection in the autumn. That will be very exciting for me! What meaning does gold have for you? I have been a jeweller for 38 years now and I have worked with gold my whole life. So, in some way, the Gold Struck collection is also a reference to my own history as jeweller for 38 years. It sounds a bit like ‘love struck’ – if someone is obsessed by someone else, we say they are love struck. Gold Struck is my version of that. With which gold do you most like to work and which gold is most strongly in demand? For me, 18-karat yellow gold is the best gold. I think people right now have rediscovered that gold can be either rose gold, yellow gold or white gold. For many years, white gold was everything. In the 1980s and 1990s, I was making everything in yellow gold – and a few pieces in rose gold. I personally made a rose-gold ring for Elizabeth Taylor in 1984. So, I have always used coloured gold alloys, but you always have to go with the demand a bit. Now, it has all changed again. People used to think yellow gold was old-fashioned. Now they

3 QUE S T IONS, 3 ANSWERS

“The most interesting concepts in our industry are launched at this show” WHAT’S A T YPICAL DAY FOR YOU AT BASELWORLD?

A typical day is spent running from one meeting to the next – reviewing what we have done in the last year and discussing plans for the coming year. WHAT NEW THINGS HAVE YOU SEEN AT THE SHOW?

A lot of jewellers are using invisible setting. This is a new trend. And I see other jewellery with cost-effective designs. As for timepieces, watchmakers are being more creative, showcasing not only new designs but the stories that go behind them. After all, time is what you make of it. WHAT ARE THE HIGHLIGHTS OF BASELWORLD FOR YOU?

I like the buzz and rush when I see new products and ideas. The most interesting concepts in our industry are launched at this show. Our company has been attending the show since its incorporation and we have never missed a single Baselworld in all these years.

Mohammed Mahmood Jaffar, Chairman of Asia Jewellers, Kingdom of Bahrain Founded over more than 50 years ago, Asia Jewellers is one of the largest jewellery and watch trading groups in Bahrain and the region today. It carries over 60 famous brands in 7 locations spread around the Kingdom.

look at it as being more casual and less formal. I am totally for that. I love yellow gold with coloured stones. What about your silver collection? Our silver collection has always been very well received. But now we do a capsule silver collection, which means I only design eight to ten pieces a year, pieces that you really want to go for. In a way, I like the democracy of silver and I am sure that if you do it right, you can really have fun with it because it is not so valuable. If I did with gold what I do with silver, the pieces would be very expensive because of their large volume. But as I said, it is only capsule because my clients don’t want me to be 2.1, C73 a silver jeweller!

Crystal Haze Drop Earrings (above) and Gold Struck Bracelet set in 18-karat rose gold with amethyst, ruby and rhodolite garnet.

Founder and Creative Director, Stephen Webster

FASHION MEETS JEWELLERY DESIGN A NN A M A R I A C A MMIL L I, SEEN B Y R I CC A R D O R EN A I b y A n n a l i s a Fo n ta n a Premiere collection in white gold and diamonds.

R

iccardo Renai, the son of Annamaria Cammilli, joined the company in 2002. Here, he gives an insight into his mother’s story and the eponymous Florentine jewellery brand. BWDN: What are the challenges for a jweller in Florence now? Ricardo Renai: In Florence, we fashion leaders walk a tightrope: renewing without losing our roots. I couldn’t imagine our world anywhere else. Being a jeweller in Florence is rewarding but demanding. Here we feel we’re at the centre of the world, bearing the responsibility of representing a centuries-old tradition of art, style and elegance in the best possible way. How do you describe Cammilli’s tradion and heritage? Our story is simple and touching. The company was founded in 1983, but the family jewellery tradition dates back to 1871, so five generations. My mother, Annamaria, was a successful young painter when she met my father and married into the world of gems. In the

simplicity and then a penchant for facing challenges.

Riccardo Renai, son of Annamaria Cammilli.

late 1970s, she chose to dedicate her natural creativity to jewellery and then to start a label under her own name, of which she is President and where she is always at the forefront. She’s a unique character: artist, sculptor, painter and, above all, a Florentine, so the art and beauty of Florence flow in her veins. We have learned a lot from her. First of all,

And when did you enter the stage? In 2003, my sister Raffaella and I began to transform the creativity of a single person into ‘an orchestra that plays symphonies’, artisanal production into a brand with industrial traits, always aware of the latest looks in womenwear but never betraying our style inspiration. So renewing without losing our roots, a bit like driving with the handbrake on. It was complex but the results, in terms of repute and numbers, encourage us to continue, creating jewellery that combines intrinsic, aesthetic and symbolic values. A fusion showcased by the Volterra alabaster casket in which we present our pieces, described in a small book in seven languages. In this small box is a design item in gold and diamonds, conceived and made in Florence by the best 2.2, G51 Italian goldsmiths.

THE ARTIST JEWELLER HALL 1.1 BOOTH A13

56 JEWELLERY

DA I LY N E W S

TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015

FROM FASHION MAGAZINE TO JEWELLERY E L L E I S B R I N G I N G PA R I S I A N C H I C T O B A S E L by A x e l H e n s e ld e r

T

he idea is a simple one: when a magazine presents the reader with the latest fashions and style recommendations each month, then completing the theme by creating a range of accessories seems to make sense. And this is exactly what happened with Elle Time & Jewelry. The fashion magazine “Elle” was founded in 1945 in Paris by the French journalist Héléne Lazareff. She previously worked for Harper’s Bazaar in New York. With “Elle”, she launched a simple and elegant yet subversive version fashion magazine onto the market: it aimed to whet women’s appetites for fashion in everyday life. It succeeded and today “Elle” is the number one fashion magazine in the world with 42 editions in over 60 countries and 5 continents with 23 million readers. The philosophy is to integrate catwalk fashions into the everyday wardrobes of modern women so that they can express their own personal styles and tastes and yet still feel at ease. This is also the fundamental idea behind Elle jewellery. “We know the trends. And we understand the needs of women who face the question of what to

wear, how to apply their make-up, what perfume to wear and what handbag to take each morning. Using our fashion expertise, we help women to redefine their silhouette each day,” says Elle Creative Director Olivier Assouline. He continues, “This is why the notion of mix and match is so important with our jewellery. It should be possible to combine our jewellery designs with one another as well as with the selected

NEWS

THE GAME OF OPPOSITES

Elle Creative Director, Olivier Assouline.

look”. The jewellery is made from sterling silver. Resin, agate and onyx are also used. The designs are clear and somewhat puristic. They should be the icing on the cake of any wardrobe and even a talking point. “Elle jewellery does not follow fashion but rather combines longterm trends with social, cultural, architectural and artistic developments,” says Assouline. “We are in an age of timeless, casual chic. Clear graphical forms shape

Silver bangle with agate and onyx, picking up the black & white trend, by Elle.

fashion and therefore the female silhouette. It is undoubtedly a reflection of the economic situation. Black-white is the colour trend which results from this. Our designs are very graphical, puristic and inspired by modern architecture, among other things,” notes Assouline. The jewellery is designed in such a way that it fits with a look that could also be defined by one of the Elle editors. Elle jewellery is therefore always a fashion statement on the part of the wearer. The range extends from rock chic to very feminine filigree items. One collection focuses on spherical forms which pay subtle homage to femininity. Others incorporate wavy surfaces which are reminiscent of the patterns made in sand by the wind. And the silhouette of a feather is featured as a design element in one line. The product range is therefore very diverse. Olivier Assouline says, “The important thing for us is that everything looks very elegant so that it can be paired with other high quality jewellery.” Elle Time & Jewelry offers affordable Parisian chic all around the world. 1.2, D05

Gold plated silver bangles and ring with resin elements, by Elle.

G E L L N E R P R E S E N T S TA H I T I A N P E A R L S I N P U R E W HI T E OR WARM CHERR Y T ONE S I n t e r v i e w by A x e l H e n s e ld e r

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örg Gellner, second-generation CEO of the homonymous jewellery manufactory, reports on his company’s new items at Baselworld 2015 and on his strategies for the future.

MY IMENSO – With the new Flora Insignia collection, Dutch locket brand MY iMenso presents new collector’s pieces. These unusual insignias can simply be inserted into the alternating frame and are produced using miniature flowers cultivated in Mexico specifically for the purpose. In the state of Guerrero, miniature flowers such as daisies, roses and other varieties are grown. These are subsequently refined and set in acrylic in a highly workintensive process. These unique pieces immediately catch the eye and are perfect for the fresh look of spring/summer 2.1, N15 outfits. (ahe)

BWDN: Which new designs have you brought along? Jörg Gellner: On the one hand we have our Zensation collection, which focuses on designs with platinum-coloured Tahitian cultured pearls in combination with ice diamonds, set in white gold. In contrast to the attractive coolness we have a hot-blooded counterpart with cherry-coloured Tahitian cultured pearls, set in pink gold with natural

brown diamonds. These are two highlyattractive lines that can also be mixed well with bicolour. What about the men’s jewellery collections? The success story continues here with the new Rock it collection from top model Marcus Schenkenberg. In comparison to You Rock, our first cooperation, the new Rock it collection is more mature and offers an even larger choice. For example, in addition to bracelets and pendants, the new collection also includes cufflinks and a silver ring. By the way: men’s jewellery is the trend theme of 2015. You exclusively offer the very rare Fiji Keshi pearls from pearl farmer Justin Hunter. How are things on that front?

The big white: platinum coloured Tahitian pearls lend Gellner jeweles a unique fresh and young look.

Jörg Gellner, Managing Director of Gellner.

Here, too, we have new products: the gold, grey and cream tones have a great effect in combination with brown diamonds in the new designs. They are joined together by fine chain links in 750 red gold. They are available in multi-rowed necklaces, as long earrings or set together to form small floral bouquets on a delicate ring shank. Fiji Rain – nomen est omen – is intended to have the effect of warm summer rain. In addition, in a more sober version we also offer the sister collection Tahiti Rain.

What significance do luxurious pearls still have for your designs? Well, we continue to sell classic pearl jewellery such as necklaces and bracelets. As far as our jewellery collections are concerned, pearls provide attractive highlights. They do not dominate the design, they lend it refinement. This philosophy is very popular with our customers. What are your strategies for 2015? We want to concentrate on fewer customers in the future. Our aim is to offer them key accounts training sessions as well as support with events and presentation. We have realised that our jewellery partners are much more successful at selling pearl jewellery with this mix of 2.1, B21 measures.

BASELWORLD

HALL 1.1 / STAND A.09 www.tirisi.com Further information; IBB Amsterdam +31 20 3428080

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H A L L 1 . 1 S TA N D C - 0 9

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ITALIAN SPRING

Ponte Vecchio Gioielli, bracelet from the Armonia collection. Gold, diamonds, sapphires.

I TA L I A N, F L E X I B L E, O H S O F E M I N I N E by Roberto Chilleri

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little girl plays with a rubber band, wrapping it around her wrist. In her imagination it becomes the most beautiful jewel in the world, and the gesture will stay with her forever, even when she is a grown woman. Several Italian jewellery brands seem to have understood that perfectly and lately have begun producing flexible or stretch jewellery. We could mention Ponte Vecchio Gioielli, Roberto Coin, Giovanni Ferraris, Mattia Cielo, and above all Fope, which patented a flexible chain in 2007, calling it Flex’it, a masterpiece of technology at the service of design. Comfortable and practical, Flex’it bracelets and rings conceal a soft microscopic spring in 18 karats, without any other metal content. Certainly the dream of a comfortable stretch jewel must have been in the sights of Ponte Vecchio Gioielli when they designed their latest collection Armonia – a complete line, including bracelets that are just like a rubber band to wrap around a wrist, once, twice, many times. In the case of the Florentine brand, the elasticity of the gold spiral is entrusted to a core in titanium, which is very flexible and has excellent shape memory. Embellished with white diamonds and coloured stones, the Armonia collection is the quintessential jewel – oversize, lightweight, precious, elegant, and easy to wear. But if there is

Roberto Demeglio, high-tech ceramics for bracelets from the Aura collection.

Roberto Coin, bracelet in gold and diamonds, Falco collection, limited edition.

Fope, rose and white gold, and diamonds in rings from the Flex’it Solo collection.

a goldsmith who has dedicated himself to the dream of a jewel that models itself around the wrist then it has to be Roberto Demeglio. The idea of elastic jewellery came to him like a bolt of lightning in 1996, when he saw friends wearing “simple coloured steel springs on their wrists,” as he says. For this he decided to dress them up with “something more precious

but equally captivating”, by creating comfortable, easy-to-wear jewellery. And that is why all of his bracelets are engineered with special micro springs, so they are neither too soft nor too hard, with stretchy joints and elastic sections that are a feature not only of his gold and diamond collections but also of the high-tech ceramic line introduced in

2002. The latest is Aura, created with ceramic modules coated in gold for bracelets not just mounted on stainless steel springs with shape memory but also with an extension locking system for the springs so they are even sturdier. A star of flexible jewellery, a bracelet will have different features and techniques depending on the brand. It may

also be made using the hollow tube process, in which case the stretch comes from the shape of the gold. They can be affordable and masterpieces, too, as proved by jeweller Roberto Coin, who has a real bestseller on his hands with his Primavera collection, in basketweave gold, also vaunting all his expertise in a bangle with flexible joints, studded with precious stones.

ETERNAL RINGS FOR UNFORGETTABLE MOMENTS FURRER- JACOT PRESEN T S AN HOMAGE TO I T S OWN HIS TORY IN BASEL by A x e l H e n s e ld e r

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urrer-Jacot is one of the most exclusive wedding ring manufactures in the world. The Swiss brand has been producing unusual designs to the highest quality since 1858. This year in Basel the company is presenting, among other pieces, four new engagement ring designs under The Lucienne Collection, named after

Lucienne engagement ring from Furrer-Jacot.

Lucienne Jacot, the wife of the manufacture founder, Fritz Furrer. These complement the Lucienne wedding rings and solitaires. “Love is a glowing, intensive, indescribable feeling, an invisible, powerful band between two people. And each love story is unique in its way, some sometimes even incredible,” says Walter Häusermann, proprietor and Managing Director of Furrer-Jacot. “Our designs are therefore highly personal and reflect the individuality of each couple. In the Lucienne collection, too, the crea creations extend beyond mere tech technical perfection. With these we aim to make the highest quality and outstanding designs that last a lifetime available to the most discerning customers.” As one of the few jewellery manufactures to master all disci disciplines of artistic craftsmanship, Furrer-Jacot designs and produces all jewellery pieces in its own studios in Schaffhausen, Switzerland. Here a modern, fresh design approach and state-of-the-art technology meet centuries-old craftsmanship. The Lucienne collection contains solitaire

rings from 0.30 to 2.0 carats. On request the designs can also be adapted to larger diamonds. They are available in luxurious platinum 950 and 750 gold. Furrer-Jacot also offers eternity rings to match the engagement rings. Häusermann says: “The eternity ring has always been very present in the USA and United Kingdom. Now they are also growing increasingly significant in Europe. Particularly fashionable are eternity rings that have the same profile as the engagement ring, without curves and without a transition, the so-called wet fit. Furrer-Jacot is one of the only firms at the Baselworld to offer such eternity rings.” Furrer-Jacot is convinced of the quality of its jewellery. As a consequence, the Swiss manufacture also issues a lifetime guarantee. Each piece of jewellery is marked with a serial number. Buyers can use this to register on the Furrer-Jacot website and subsequently enjoy an unlimited guarantee on material and workmanship. Lost diamonds up to 0.05 carat are replaced free of charge. After the second year there is a free size adjustment, as there is with the handover of the jewellery to the 1.1, B01 next generation.

Walter Häusermann, Managing Director of Furrer-Jacot.

DISCOVER THE COLLECTION. HALL 1.1 STAND A63.

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62 JEWELLERY TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015

DA I LY N E W S Large fish with tourmaline and 305 brilliant-cut diamonds, small fish with beryl and 127 brilliant-cut diamonds, both in white gold.

NOBLE NATURE FRIEDEN INTERPRE TS ANEW THE PRIMAL FA S C I N AT I O N O F A N I M A L S Y M B O L I S M by Christel Trimborn

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he world of mythological beasts inspired new collections of jewellery from the Frieden AG, which is headquartered in Thun, Switzerland. Noble materials and skilled craftsmanship give new interpretations to the ancient yet eternally lively symbolism of snakes and fish. The elegant piscine pendants glitter with a coat of fish scales formed from numerous white diamonds, while an opulently gleaming coloured gem serves as each fish’s eye. The larger pendants derive their appeal from red tourmaline, while the smaller ones showcase yellow beryl. The serpent, which is simultaneously revered and feared, has played an important role in religion and mythology for thousands of years. Diamonds and the graceful

motions of the reptiles form the focal points of a tastefully sinuous jewellery set with a serpentine motif. Ear stud, finger ring and pendant reflect the elegant shapes of the bodies of these fascinating creatures. Coloured gems are Frieden’s greatest passion. This brand’s designers and goldsmiths work in-house to create distinctive and one-ofa-kind pieces from particularly rare or especially radiant gemstones. These pieces, too, can be admired at Baselworld this year. Among them are new creations in the Thomas Frieden jewellery line, which underwent further development since its launch two years ago. This line’s salient feature is the exclusive use of diamonds in all their variants: from raw crystals to brilliant-cut gem and from

radiantly colourless to cognactinged diamonds. This still rather young label presents three collections: “Feuille Divine”, “Œil Magique” and “Fleur Céleste”. Unveiling new items in Basel is more than just a good tradition for Frieden. Domestic jewelry manufactories established the Swiss Pavilion in the context of the “Mustermesse Basel” or “Muba” (“Basel Sample Fair”). The Thun-based company was one of its founding members and has annually exhibited at the fair 2.1, C21 ever since.

Patrick Steiner, Head of International Sales and Marketing of Frieden AG.

CALL OF THE WILD D E S I G N E R S D R A W O N N AT U R E T O A D O R N CUSTOMERS WITH BE AU TIFUL BE ASTIES by Christel Trimborn

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utterflies, beetles, swans, horses, tigers, etc. – they have all been a trend and continue to be so. With pretty birds flapping here, dragonflies buzzing there and snakes weaving around, the fauna here serves as an endless source of inspiration for elaborate designs which reproduce symmetrical fur markings or feather patterns, striking shapes or fascinating colour gradients. Fashion and jewellery designers draw on the seemingly endless ingenuity of nature which extends far beyond the popular leopard print patterns. An enthusiasm for the strength, beauty, elegance, lightness and numerous intelligent details presented by nature provides designers with endless new ideas for their collections. During this season in particular, the animal world is proving very wearable in fashion. These charming animals sometimes feature alone and other times as a herd or swarm. Despite this they demonstrate exemplary restraint, whether featuring as a charming detail or in subtle colour tones.

CHARMING, SHIMMERING, MAJESTIC

ArtyA presents a truly special in its Farfalla collection. Under the strict control of the relevant authorities and with their full consent, for the first time artist Dominique Arpa-Cirpka incorporated genuine butterfly wings into the dial of a watch. The Farfalla’s subtle butterfly wings from the Lepidoptera family are enhanced with gold leaf. The blend of green, orange and black hues amid the gold leaf creates a unique colour balance. The interplay of matching shades makes it look as if the gold is actually part of the wings themselves.

The beauty, nobility, elegance and resilient character conveyed by horses serves as a source of inspiration for the design team at Magerit. Wild Spirit is the name of the hand-made collection from the Spanish label which comprises a necklace, bracelet, ring and matching earrings. Black rhodium is an exceptional player in this collection, giving it a unique contrast of colours between the two horse figures. The set is available in 18 karat white and yellow gold with white and black diamonds. Lydia Courteille’s striking earrings are characterised by great attention to detail and an array of colour. Realistic yellow gold shimmering beetles are shown climbing droplet-shaped phosphosiderites, sapphires and beryls. The rose and black gold Ricchio ring from Roberto Coin`s Animalier Collection is as cute as precious. The hedgehog seems to sit quietly on the hand of the wearer and shows its quills made of black sapphires and brown diamonds. A smile on the face of the charming frog from jewellery manufacturer Stenzhorn captivates the observer. In its swing, this white and yellow gold frog looks out without a care in the world. After all, he is lavishly decorated with diamonds, tsavorites and rubellites.

1) Aspire 2) Airfield 3) Magerit 4) Stenzhorn 5) Sicis 6) ArtyA 7) Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen 8) Roberto Coin 9) Lydia Courtaille

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HYMNS TO ETERNITY S C H R E I N E R H A U T E J O A I L L E R I E S TA N D S F O R T H E G R E AT E S T C O N C E I VA B L E L U X U R Y by A x e l H e n s e ld e r

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Handmade diamond jewellery suite Waterfall collection, in 18 carat yellow gold with 925 multi-coloured and multi-shaped diamonds (total 170,17 ct.).

NEWS

ime is greatest gift of all”, once said Gerhard Schreiner, who owns the company. Perhaps that is why his jewellery is designed to radiate its breathtaking beauty for all eternity. Many things pass, but these wearable artworks never fade. His opulent pieces highlight the finest gems and embody the greatest imaginable luxury. So it is not surprising to learn that his clientele is the global elite, i.e. royal houses, the highest-ranking European nobles, sheiks from the Emirates, billionaires from Eastern Europe and prosperous individuals from the U.S.. His jewellery recalls bygone epochs when jewels were passed from generation to generation for centuries and treasure chambers bore witness to their owners’ incalculable wealth. Gerhard Schreiner’s fascination with precious stones led him in the late 1980s to Colombia, where he personally unearthed the finest emeralds in mines delved 1,000 metres below the Earth’s surface. This self-made man’s unconventional career began in Colombia, but he is now headquartered in Munich. The plans for his haute joaillerie are drawn by designers in Italy and Spain, where his jewellery is manually fabricated by masterful craftsmen who uphold the highest quality standards. Schreiner presently employs a staff of

Gerhard Schreiner, CEO Schreiner Haute Joaillerie.

more than 300 people. A native of Austria, Schreiner remains inquisitive and restless because he still has many ideas for pieces of jewellery that are intended for all eternity. He spends most of the year travelling. He constantly searches for the best rubies, the most opulent emeralds and the most intensively coloured sapphires. This search grows progressively more difficult because many mines are exhausted and purchasers have already bought practically every top-quality gemstone on the market. But thanks to his good relationships with mine operators and local dealers, Schneider repeatedly gains access to rarities that are essentially no

longer available. When he’s not travelling to suppliers, he visits customers to offer them advice with the utmost discretion. Despite all the crises, he sees a return to true luxury that retains its value. People love beauty – and Gerhard Schreiner delivers it. His jewellery is unique, as are his gemstone objects. He consciously integrates new trends such as tassels or floral motifs into their designs, and he transforms these fashions into eternally valid beauty. No connoisseur of haute joaillerie should visit Baselworld without viewing Gerhard Schreiner’s glorious treasure 1.1, D05 chamber.

WITH CHI AS THE KEY ELEMENT BE T W EEN M O D E R NI T Y A ND T HE CL A S SI C S, HULCHI BELLUNI COMBINES ROMANCE WITH FENG SHUI by N i n a H a ld

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SCHOFER – Numerous ideas are required to create variety in chains. The designers at Schofer have these ideas and develop them – with heart and soul and state-of-the-art technology – into exclusive designs for discerning customers. Traditional hand craftsmanship, old techniques, modern technologies and fully-automated production complement each other perfectly at the company site in Pforzheim. The result is over 1,000 chain patterns. One example of the innovativeness are the delicate chains in yellow, red and white gold, combined with laser-cut elements in every desirable form. Whether it is symbols or logos - there are no limits to the imagination. The elements are produced individually to customer require2.1, J01 ments. (ahe)

hen Martine Hul launched her jewellery brand Hulchi Belluni back in 2001, she was inspired by three elements: her own last name Hul, the oriental philosophy Feng Shui (the ‘chi’ part of ‘Hulchi’) and the beautiful moon (in Italian ‘bella luna’), which in many cultures is considered a source of inspiration. Today, the successful jewellery brand is sold all over the world, and the look of the pieces is one of appealing divers modernity and a classic feel.

White gold in combination with colourless and black diamonds.

For many years, it was the A butterfly and ultimate dream of Mara tiny flower set tine Hul to establish her in diamonds. own brand, and with creativity as one of her strongest talents, the company has since then been widely recognised on the international jewellery scene. Each jewel portrays personal emotions and provides balance to both body and personal environment. Steeped in the old Visitor enjoying the look of Hulchi Belluni. oriental philosophy of Feng Shui, in which “chi” – a posiof flowers and butterflies, to name but elements of nature (fire, water, tive life-force – is the key eletwo of the motifs. earth, metal and wood) are ment, the finely executed Hulchi Belluni has a collection for brought to balance, and furthercraftsmanship and exclusive everyone, for every taste, and for every more how women and nature aesthetic together form fine occasion. Young women preparing to eventually will be strongly unitcreations that exceed that which enjoy the summer will fall in love with ed – and what better way to achieve meets the eye. Feng Shui literally means the fresh colours and playful designs of just that, than to wear these precious “wind and water”: this ancient Eastern the Aiko and Fiji collections. A business pieces on the body? philosophy describes the influence of woman might prefer to go for the more The jewels are so much more than ambient conditions on personal wellsophisticated feel of the Blackberry coljust preciousness. They are also romanbeing. The way of life is based on the lection or the subdued Crystal Rose tic fairy-tales of a most feminine gathergeneral perception that nature is in fact collection. And for the woman with a ing of positive energy and harmonious an organic entity and life-force is its penchant for classic elegance, the Grace equilibrium. This year’s news is delicate vital element. Feng Shui points out how collection will be sure to capture her pieces, made of white gold with colour2.2, G80 chi originates, how the five essential imagination. less and black diamonds – in the shape

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ALWAYS AN ACE FOR EACH SLEEVE

NEWS

AT B A S E L W O R L D, T H E B R O T H E R S H E N R Y A N D J A M E S D E A K IN PR E SEN T T HEIR C O L L EC T I O N O F CU F F L INK S, W H I C H I N C L U D E S A T O TA L O F 5,0 0 0 M O D E L S . by Christel Trimborn

GUCCI – The Running G motif is highly popular in the Gucci brand identity. Based on the GG initials of founder Guccio Gucci, Running G has been continuously reinterpreted and has formed the basis for countless designs – circular, back to back, reversed or even in abstract form. The new pieces of the Running G collection comprise a complete set, consisting of necklace, bracelet, droplet-shaped earrings and rings created in two variants: with a warm radiance in 750 yellow gold or a cooler look in white gold with diamond accents. One of the most distinctive models of the collection is the Running G ring. Its sculptural design combines the characteristic GG with an unusual octagonal form. The piece looks as if two intertwined rings are being worn, connected to one another via the initial motif. Their form lends the rings a particular significance, as in numerous Oriental cultures eight is traditionally considered to be a lucky number. (ahe) 1.0, D49

The bumblebee’s bright colours were the inspiration for this set of cufflinks.

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ailboats, footballs, polo players. Diverse motifs adorn the cufflinks that well-dressed individuals use to keep their sleeves’ cuffs closed. But the British brothers Henry J. and James F. Deakin offer an absolutely unique selection of cufflinks with motifs so imaginative that one can never see enough of them. To name only a few of the designs, the palette includes: little crabs, cutlets, surfboards, rubber boots, ducks that waddle their webbed feet and sharks that can open their toothy jaws; classical models with surfaces artistically enamelled in a choice of more than 1,000 colours; and a selection of gold cufflinks ranging from gem-studded models to three-dimensional, hand painted, crystal cufflinks. “All our cufflinks are made from 9 and 18 karat gold or sterling silver and we only use genuine quality gemstones in our designs“, say the brothers, who belong to the seventh generation of family business, which was founded in 1786.

Part of the MechAnimals collection, each of these brushed-satin waddling duck cufflinks has a moveable tail and moveable leg.

James F. and Henry J. Deakin, owners and managers of Deakin & Francis.

Hardly any other company in the jewellery-making industry can look back on a similarly long and successful history. This family business has been producing some of the finest, handmade cuf-

flinks in Birmingham for nearly 230 years. Deakin & Francis returns to Baselworld this year after a five-year hiatus. The brothers, who are graduated gemologists and designers, are back at

A NEVER-ENDING STORY OF FABULOUS COCKTAIL STYLE

the show now and they are expectantly looking forward to visitors’ responses. Thanks to their family’s uncommonly long history and many years of experience, the brothers can optimally cater to their customers’ needs. “We have thousands of products in stock for next-day delivery,” say the Deakins, who are proud that their clientele not only includes business people and cufflink enthusiasts, but also celebrities and 2.1, L91 members of royalty.

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L ARGE COLOURFUL GEMS TONE JA Z Z UP OU TFIT S by N i n a H a ld

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ifferent aesthetics will come and go, but the cocktail style is always a sure staple in the world of jewellery. Humoristic, colourful and oversize, the rings tell a never-ending story of fabulousness as the absolute toast of the town. Like small sculptures we wear on our bodies, the cocktail style is one of the longest-surviving in the fashionable spotlight – maybe not centre-stage at all times, but ever present since the 20th century. Current fashions favour the cocktail style, with its use of large colourful gemstones. When mademoiselle Coco Chanel’s famous little black dress conquered women’s wardrobes during the 1920s, the dress was in grave need of colour. The cocktail jewellery met this need. During the end of the 1930s and beginning of the 1940s, the bright playfulness of the motifs in the cocktail style enlivened the mood of female clothing, dampened by restrictions and rations of all sorts. And once in a while, when fashion

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1) Italian Design 2) Schreiner Fine Jewellery 3) de Grisogono 4) Chopard 5) Tamara Comolli 6) Ivy 7) Autore 8) Allessio Boschi

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takes a nosedive into a black and white Hollywood movie with special focus on precision in silhouette and cut, nothing compares to a fresh splash of colour. The senses are accordingly delighted and the mood brightens. Relatively robust pieces with generous golden curves set with coloured gemstones were originally the characteristics of the cocktail style. The impression was one of a cocktail – hence the name – of motifs and themes from the beginning of the 20th century. Everything, from cartoon-inspired animals to ballerinas, fruits and vegetables, hands and faces, swords and butterflies, and abstract large centre stone, was used as motifs. The name was also related to the fact that especially the rings were popular during illegal cocktail-parties during the

8 American Prohibition (1920-1933). Cocktail rings were worn on a woman’s right hand, on her index or middle finger, as a symbol of feminine independence and playful glamour. Not only did women drink cocktails, they did it in style with accessories to match. And the rings were always sure conversation starters by their sheer sizes. The cocktail rings are a sure-fire way to instantly jazz up any outfit. Usually, more than a few cocktail rings will be seen on the fingers of Hollywood celebrities at award shows, because of the ease with which an elegant, abstract cocktail ring can be paired with clothes, so much easier than finding the right necklace. And bigger is definitely better, when the purpose of the ring is to glitter and catch the attention of the crowd as an actress waves her greetings to the crowds.

From a world where men controlled machines. Not the other way around.

Grand Flieger Classic The Grand Flieger Classic is an officially certified chronometer. A new development which derives directly from the legendary Tutima Flieger Chronograph of the 1940s. And created with exactly that perfection which has made the predicate “Made in Glashü e” into a world-famous promise of quality. Grand Flieger Classic · sweep minute stop chronograph · 6402-01 MADE FORTHOSEWHODO

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and Bulova are registered trademarks. © 2015 Bulova Corporation.

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NEXT STOP: MIDTOWN Joseph Bulova founded his watch company in 1875 on Maiden Lane, eight stops from 350 Fifth Avenue, where the Empire State Building—the place we now call home—would eventually rise. Over the past 140 years, as we’ve sold millions of watches throughout the world, our roots have always been planted firmly in New York, our home town and constant source of inspiration. BULOVA.COM

A HISTORY OF MODERN

HALL 1.1 BOOTH B83

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TECHNOLOGY OF TODAY CAD PROGRAMMES WITH NUMEROUS NEW FUNCTIONS IN HALL 4 by Markus Strehlitz

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orking with CAD software (Computer Aided Design) has become a mainstream activity for jewellers. At least this is the belief of Christopher Burger, Vice President of Operations at Gemvision (4.U, C61). “It is no longer the technology of tomorrow, it is the technology of today,” says Burger. The software facilitates the complete design process. “The question is no longer if such programmes are used, but how,” adds Uwe Wolfram Erdei of Design Engineering. His company markets the CAD programmes of Gemvision. At Baselworld, the manufacturer is presenting the latest version of its CAD software Matrix. The upgrade improves upon its predecessor in designing, pricing, ordering, selling, and manufacturing functions. These include mesh repair and computer-assisted manufacturing tools for swift model production, and the integration of gem ordering and processing tools of the jewellery supplier Stuller, based on the day’s precious metal prices and gemstone availability. Users can also browse through finished libraries of bridal and fashion designs, along with jewellery findings for easy access to advanced designs. With Counter Sketch, Gemvision has also developed a visualisation tool for Matrix. This enables jewellery pieces to be designed very easily. The users need not have extensive design knowledge. Using the

Listening to the customers is important for Type3.

CAD files are the basis for designing complex pieces.

software they can combine prototype jewellery samples and flexible designs from a digital library, provided by Counter Sketch. Thanks to this tool, the jeweller can join with the customer in designing the corresponding jewellery. Burger places great value on the fact that his company not only offers software, but a complete solution. This also includes corresponding training. This is just as important as the software, says Burger. “We offer training courses, including online, at our own centre, via our dealers and also at 56 universities,”

Burger reports. A new version of its 3Design CAD software is also presented by Type3 (4.U, C10), a Gravotech brand. 3Design offers numerous new functions. These include reports offering a broader spectrum of information such as price lists, technical diagrams and product galleries. In addition, design changes are simpler to implement. One function even enables rendering in real time. “Feedback from our customers is very important to us,” says Emilie Balsamo, International Sales Executive at Type3. “Many of the new functions of 3Design

The software called Matrix is shown at the Gemvision stand.

are the result of talking to users.” Users of RhinoGold can also look forward to new functions. A new update is also available for this CAD software. A new user

ONGOING INNOVATION

FLEXIBLE ON FIVE A XLES

NE W BADECO MOTOR CON T ROLLED USING A SMAR TPHONE APP

BENZINGER MACHINE PROCESSES WORK PIECES ON BOTH SIDES

by Markus Strehlitz

by Markus Strehlitz

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adeco is celebrating its 70th anniversary this year. Ongoing innovation has enabled the company to stay at the forefront of developments. It has been producing hand-held motors and control units enabling easy and flexible working for many years. Over time,

the technology has undergone many developments and has been constantly adapted to the ever-changing requirements of jewellers and watchmakers. This year, Badeco is presenting a new product at Baselworld in the form of the M5-Connect. The special thing about this device is that the control unit can be connected to a tablet computer or smartphone. Using a specially developed app, users can control the handheld motor via their own mobile device. “This is a step into the future,” says the Badeco CEO Amir Hoveyda. The target groups are individual goldsmiths rather than large-scale manufacturers. The hand-held items have also been revised. They are now smaller and easier to handle, according to Hoveyda. The M5-Connect will be launched onto the market at the end of the year. Visitors to Baselworld will have a chance to see the device for themselves. So Badeco is not only taking a step into the future, it is also providing a glimpse of 4.U, E25 the future right now. Amir Hoveyda, Director of Badeco, uses the M5-Connect.

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his year, once again, the 5@ work processing centre is the focus of attention at the Benzinger stand. The machine is designed for the processing of a wide range of work pieces in the jewellery and watch

A piece produced with the 5@work.

segment. For the handling of work pieces such as rings, bracelets or bezels the user can turn to a number of different automated solutions. The 5@work processing centre uses five axles to mill, set stones, apply matte and diamond finishes, decorate and engrave. Benzinger has equipped its flagship product with a new function, which is on display on the stand, in Hall 4. The work pieces can now be processed on both sides. This serves to further speed up the complete process. Specifically for the 5@work, Benzinger provides its own CAD-CAM system, Benzinger Creative. According to the manufacturer, the software offers numerous options and benefits when creating and programming complicated patterns, defining tools and processing strategies and the subsequent creation of the numerecally controlled programme. The interest of the show visitors in such technology is considerable, confirms Dieter Wentz, head of Sales and Development at Benzinger. “Quality and reproducibility are the most important criteria for users, when they buy machines 4.U, C13 like ours,” says Wentz.

interface means that RhinoGold 5.0 is now even simpler to operate. Those looking for further details can find these on 4.U, B34 the stand of Artsupport.

NEWS

Gianni Pavone, Marketing Director, Bergeon

BERGEON – is presenting a patented system at Baselworld 2015 which combines a screwdriver with a special ribbed profile and a barrel to control the torque movement. Controlling the torque prevents screws being overtightened during watch assembly or repair. The barrel is simply attached to the screwdriver – two barrels can be attached one behind the other, one for unscrewing and one to control the screwing process. All of the barrels are bi-directional. Around a dozen different torques are available from 10 mNm to 60 mNm. Additional torques are available on request. The individual barrels have a colour code which indicate the torque and this is also engraved onto them. The tools have been tested at 100,000 rotations and during the tests, no deviations were identified 4.U, C34 outside of the tolerance.

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GEMSTONES 75

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TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015

Fish-shaped Chinese fresh water pearls by Australia Pearls.

Stunning necklace featuring a Brazilian Paraíba tourmaline by Henn of London.

OF WILD BOARS, FISHES AND GLOWING RUBIES

Wild Boar, Pigs and Flowers by Herbert Klein.

T H E R E A R E M A N Y W AY S O F P R O C E S S I N G G E M S T O N E S – SOME TIMES PRODUCING SOME TRUE WORKS OF AR T by Christoph Hoffmann

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enn Gems (3.1, E27) is all about producing works of art from gemstones. Each display case at the stand of this Idar-Oberstein-based company offers another reason to be amazed. These include the Homage to Dalí sculpture which is based on a model made by Salvador Dalí. The body in 750 yellow gold is set with diamonds weighing 34.45 carats and towers on a powerful rock crystal, rearing a tsavorite of 33.50 car-

“If God created it big, we do not want to grind it down until it is small.” ats. It has been decorated with enamel. In another display case, a work of a completely different nature can be viewed: a 180 x 140 x 135 mm bowl made from one single ruby. Virtually unimaginable efforts were required to produce this. “Processing rubies is very, very difficult. When we hollowed out the ruby, it generated so much heat that our drill melted. The work only really began when the basic form had been created – the ruby actually glowed as it was being polished,” says Hans-Jürgen Henn. 20 grinding stones were used up. But these efforts also reflect the company philosophy: “If God created it big, we do not want to grind it down until it is small,” says Axel Henn, son of Hans-Jürgen Henn.

Homage to Dalí sculpture sitting atop a huge rock crystal made by Henn.

Despite all this passion, he knows that this form of craftsmanship could easily soon be lost. The exclusive raw materials used at the Henn company are becoming increasingly rare. And Hans-Jürgen Henn is worried about the next generation. “There are lots of good engravers but few excellent ones. And of the top ten excellent engravers, maybe one of them comes out on top. And that one is hard to find…” His other son, Ingo Henn, adopts a different approach to the world. Under the brand of ‘Henn of London’, he creates some extremely exclusive items of jewellery. His philosophy is to integrate the stones harmoniously. He therefore continues the lines of the cut into the jewellery piece and incorporates the colours of the jewellery into the enamel, thereby creating a fascinating colour gradient. One of his latest works which is ready just in time for Baselworld is a necklace in 750 white gold, diamonds and a large 54.87-carat Brazilian Paraíba tourmaline.

FLORA AND FAUNA CUT INTO STONE

The engravers at Herbert Klein (3.1, B01) always succeed in eternalising beautiful figures from the world of flora and fauna in their gemstones. Delicate flower arrangements, loose blossoms and leaves, and different animal figures await visitors at the company stand, including cats, pigs, rhinoceroses, monkeys and polar bears. Stefan Klein, who manages the company with his sister Gabi Klein, produces some impressive and life-like animal sculptures. His work involves the highest

levels of care and attention to detail: each individual cut needs to be exact because even a slight deviation could adversely affect the realism of the figures. Achieving this requires great skill as well as a good eye for the many subtleties and special characteristics of the animals depicted. And it also involves a great physical effort: one of the latest creations, a charming wild boar made from obsidian with cacholong teeth and onyx eyes, is brought to life with a weight of

“You create characters and you hope that they end up in good hands.” around 3 kilograms. The stone comprising the body weighed between 6.5 and 7 kilograms at the outset. “You really feel this in your wrists over the weeks,” says Stefan Klein. And over the course of the work, which can take several months, he develops a personal connection with the works. “You create characters,” he explains “and you hope that they end up in good hands.” Another speciality of Herbert Klein are flowers and blossoms made from gemstones such as rubellite or tanzanite. Only the highest quality materials are used. “Only then can we guarantee the highest quality,” says Gabi Klein. In addition to a broad selection of gemstones in all colours and sizes, facet-

ted in the form of cabochon or organically formed ‘character stones’, there are also lots of delicate engravings to admire at Paul Wild (3.0, D05), featuring maritime motifs in particular. In addition to many larger objects, there are also smaller works on display which can be processed either individually or in combination with equally luxurious or lively jewellery items. One real highlight is ‘Thalassa’s Necklace’, named after the Greek goddess of the sea. The set consists of fish, starfish, shells and snails, all carved from Paraíba tourmaline. And, of course, there are endless other works of art to discover at Baselworld too. Noor Gems (3.0, D30), for example, is displaying some genuine and exceptional stones in its display cabinet, including a 116.90-carat alexandrite which has been artistically carved into the shape of a wolf and lizard. Gustav Caesar (3.1, B33) is presenting ducks, penguins and bears while the Diasqua India company (3.1, N21), specialising in loose diamonds, is exhibiting various sculptures set all over with diamonds. And the Australia Pearls (3.1, D41) stand shows that nature has endless works of art to offer which only need a touch of refinement: baroque pearls are transformed here into small yet distinctive fish with delicate accents of gold. There are some spectacular discoveries to be made in many of the display windows too. Anyone with an interest in art and craftsmanship is highly recommended to visit Hall 3!

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THE QUEEN OF ALL GEMS

Gabriel Ammar of Joseph Gad is seen here holding a fabulous 115 carat Colombian emerald. You can see this and many more Colombian emeralds in the Hall of Elements.

O PA L O F A L L T Y P E S I S E X C I T I N G A N E W G E N E R AT I O N O F J E W E L L E R S by Deborah Yonick

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or in them you shall see the living fire of ruby, the glorious purple of the amethyst, the sea-green of the emerald, all glittering together in an incredible mixture of light.” Pliny the Elder, back in the 1st century AD eloquently described what makes opal the most highly prized of all gemstones. Magical, mysterious, full of colour and sparkling with life, opal is captivating new swathes of buyers who are discovering the variety of material available on the market today. Throughout history, opal has been regarded as the stone of good fortune, and many opal dealers are feeling quite fortunate that sales have been stronger than ever these days. Black, boulder and light opal to Mexican fire and Ethiopian opal are showing up in designs gracing the showcases from Place Vendôme in Paris to anywhere USA. “We’re roaring at the moment,” hails Andrew Cody of Cody Opal (3.1, E41). “The major fashion houses in Paris have really been pushing opal in recent years, influencing people worldwide to design around the most amazing gem in the world. There are no boundaries in working with opal. You can look into it and see a beautiful landscape. It’s such an exciting stone.” Cody says that in the last one to two years he has sold out of everything priced over $50,000. In the more moderate price range, he

Assorted boulder opal matrix by Cody Opal.

Ethiopian opal necklace, 463 carats, by Paul Wild.

E M E R A L D S T O T H E L E F T, E M E R A L D S T O T H E R I G H T, A N D D O W N T H E E M E R A L D A I S L E by Gary Roskin

reports seriously going into boulder matrix, a designer favourite that provides a nice opal look that won’t break the bank. “We must have sold over 100,000 carats of boulder matrix in the last few of years.” Jürgen Schütz of Emil Weis (3.1, D43) quips that opal is not a new phenomenon as gem houses like his have been surviving on this gem for more than 100 years. “Opal has never really been out of fashion, but certainly when major jewellery brands, up and coming designers, and the global press are showing a lot more of it, everyone is buzzing around the gem.” He cites the U.S. market as very strong for opal, particularly black, boulder and doublets. The next huge market is China, where black and Mexican fire opals are very popular. And, Europe has steady business for all types across the board. He notes that five years ago the Chinese knew very little about opal. Now it has become one of their favourite gems, as companies like Weis and Cody have invested time there nurturing the market. A number of gem houses, including Paul Wild (3.0, D05) are enjoying the success of Ethiopian opal.

Until recently, it hadn’t carried opal before. However, Markus Wild, company president, was fascinated by the warm shades of the Ethiopian material and its noticeably lively shimmering play of colours, and began processing it in 2012. “We had expected these wonderful stones to be well-accepted, but we were surprised that the worldwide demand is so strong. The play of colours of the Ethiopian opal ranges from delicate pastel to strongly luminous neon. This opal suits every woman. It has become a superstar.” Francesco Mazzero of Opalinda (3.0, A05) expects that Ethiopian opal will be the most sold opal on the market, in terms of quantity, in the years to come. First discovered 25 years ago near Mezezo, Shewa Province, the most recent discovery in 2008 in the Wegel Tena, Wollo Province, is producing beautiful material that has gotten a lot of attention. While the mine is producing mostly white, translucent opal – a majority of which boasts vivid play-of-colour – Mazzero is seeing nice variations of body tone from perfectly crystal (transparent) to yellow, orange and dark. He describes Ethiopian opal as a boon for the opal market, as production is stable with great potential for the future. “The market is writing a new story with this opal that is big, bright and exciting.”

SEDUCTIVE RARITY I M P E R I A L T O PA Z O F F E R S MOST DESIRABLE COLOUR by Deborah Yonick

20-carat cushion cut bi-colour Imperial topaz.

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he most valuable colours of topaz are the golden orangeyellow type, called Imperial Topaz, and the dark pinkish-red and orange-red colours. Value increases with a deepness of colour in orange and reddish hues. Constantin Wild cites as an example a magnificent 20+ carat cushion-shaped star cut that unites two natural colours: orange, and the combination of red and shocking pink. “The mines in Brazil, homeland of this stone, have long since been exhausted. No one knows how long top quality specimens will continue to be available on the mar-

WE GIVE YOU THE GREEN LIGHT!

GEMTASTIC DIAMONDS

F Constantin Wild promotes Imperial topaz.

ket. So, it is also suitable as a sparkling investment. This year, red tones are on trend, with Pantone hailing ‘Marsala’ its 3.1, A13 colour of the year 2015.”

ancy colour diamonds are everywhere in Hall 3 but these were exceptional discoveries. A pair of matched Fancy Red square emerald cuts, half caraters each, from Manak (3.1, E29), and incredible blues at Scarselli Diamonds (3.0, A21), one caraters each, set into mother-of pearl, and accented by pink diamonds. It comes with matching necklace. (gr)

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hether from Colombia, Brazil, Zambia, or elsewhere, the lure of the emerald is all about the color. “Generally speaking, Colombian colour is the finest,” says Sam Livian, of Neli Gems (3.1, D13). “I prefer ‘Old Mine’ colour,” referring to the Muzo mine of Colombia. “The best description might be that it has a rich soft green colour, with a very slight hint of yellow. Not oversaturated.” Livian brought out two emeralds, both rich dark green with a slight hint of blue. “Yes, green is made up of blue and yellow. Some people will see a slight hint of yellow, others a slight hint of blue.” Let’s just call it Colombian emerald green. Neli is at the front of what we will call the emerald aisle 3.1. as there are so many emerald suppliers all in a row. Walking down this aisle, upstairs in the Hall of Elements, you’ll walk by emerald specialists 4G (3.1, D21) on your left before you

get to Henn (3.1, E27) on your right which has jaw-dropping matching emerald drops, 56.44 carats total weight. Directly across from Henn is Crown Color (3.1, D29) on your left where Hans Pfister showed us a design-inspiring emerald bracelet layout, a feast for the eyes, with 31 pieces, rectangular step cuts, all matching deep rich extremely fine Colombian emerald green. FEI (3.1, D33) on your left is your next stop on the emerald aisle before you make the left turn to go see Joseph Gad (3.1, D39) at the top right of the escalator. You’ll find that there are many emerald suppliers, and especially Gad, who carry only the classic Colombian sources. Michael Gad, also strong in Colombian emeralds, is just to the left of the escalator. Every emerald supplier in the hall knows the material, and they know the colour. And when it comes to emeralds, it is all about the colour.

SUGARLOAFS – HOW SWEET ARE THESE ROUNDED FOUR SIDED PYRAMIDS U P S I D E D O W N O R A R E T H E Y TA L L C A B O C H O N S ? by Gary Roskin

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o matter how you look at it, the sugarloaf gives colour gems that unique look your customers may just be looking for. It doesn’t matter what gem you are looking for, you can probably find them polished into a sugarloaf. Shailesh Jhalani, Prompt Gem Importers (3.1, E43) handed us a magnificent necklace set with sugarloaf amethysts, surrounded by Matching graduated sugarloafs, with demantoids and demantoid garnets, and fancy intense fancy yellow diamonds, from Prompt Gem Importers. yellow diamonds. “While amethyst isn’t rare, a suite of fine colour amethysts, hard to find a very clean sugarloaf. But beautifully matched and graduated sugwhen you, they are very special.” arloafs is an exceptional find.” François Garaude, Garaude (3.1, “For me, it’s the charm, the softness A09) has been a Parisian stone dealer for and beauty of a sugarloaf that really sets more than 30 years. “We work excluit apart from all other cuts,” says Ankit sively with natural unheated stones,” Jain, FEI (3.1, D33). “The sugarloaf has notes Garaude. “Sapphires cut as a ‘pain this femininity that you just don’t find de sucre’ (sugarloaf) cabochon, polished in faceted stones.” Check out some so that the stone culminates in a roundsugarloaf emeralds at FEI. ed point at the very apex as well as four “And you see more colour because faces and an overall finish smooth as they are upside down,” says Jain. “They silk, are highly coveted for their ability stand out, and are aesthetically unique. to enhance the already lush blues of the There’s nothing quite like them.” gemstone. The depth of the sugarloaf “The more clean they get, the more intensifies the rich and vivid royal blue beautiful they get,” says Jain, “And it’s colours so sought after in sapphires.”

TIMES THE WORLD

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80 WORLD OF BASEL

DA I LY N E W S

TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015

BOOKS THE EDUARD JOSEF GÜBELIN STORY

One of the world’s leading experts on gemstones and photomicrography, Eduard Josef Gübelin (1913-2005) acquired an outstanding international reputation in the field of gemology with his scientific work and his remarkable collection of precious stones. His lifelong studies of inclusions in gemstones changed the science of gemology and his work laid the foundation for the microscopic identification of gemstones of all kinds. Written by several of his family members, ‘The Eduard Josef Gübelin Story’ delves deeply into Gübelin’s life and explores how his early years laid the foundation for his extraordinary career as a gemologist, as well as providing insights into his research and his legacy. The Gübelin Foundation, The Eduard Josef Gübelin Story – The Art and Science of Gems, Unicorn Press, 306 pages, 245 x 170 mm, English (ISBN 978-1-910065-40-2), German (ISBN 978-1-910065-43-3) and Mandarin (ISBN 978-1910065-44-0), CHF 60.00

KICK-OFF

H

In your opinion, what does the world of football have in common with the world of watches? Most football players love Hublot. I think it’s terrific that Hublot is committed to the sport. That further strengthens my bond with the brand.

BWDN: When did you wear your first Hublot watch? And what do you associate with it? Xherdan Shaqiri: I first wore one when I won my first championship with FC Basel. I was 19 years old. I wanted to treat myself to a little gift. I’ll always associate Hublot with my first professional success.

You trace your roots to Kosovo, but you grew up in Switzerland, you’ve played for FC Bayern Munich, and now you live in Italy and play for Inter Milan. Where in the world is ‘home’ for you? That’s hard to say. I’ve always felt very much at home everywhere, but ultimately I always return to Switzerland. My friends and my family are here.

ublot’s new brand ambassador is Xherdan Shaqiri, a member of the Swiss national football team who is currently under contract with Inter Milan.

Do you have a moment when you would have liked to have stopped time? Naturally, one doesn’t want life’s beautiful moments to pass. And sometimes I wish I could see one of my goals in slow motion and from a side view. 1.0, A05

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele (Co-President of Chopard) and former racing driver Jacky Ickx.

E 360 DEGREE VIEW GL ASHÜT TE ORIGINAL S H O W S 170 Y E A R S O F W AT C H M A K I N G

ntitled ‘360° Glashütte Original – Our Facets’, yesterday’s exhibition at the Swatch Group Plaza illuminated the watch brand’s history from various perspectives. 170 years after the very beginnings of the watchmaking industry in Glashütte, Saxony, the exhibition represents the start of its international roadshow, which will travel from city to city in the coming months. Its concept is based on three pillars: its rich heritage, the exciting present and the 1.0, C25C brand’s promising future.

WATCHES INTERNATIONAL

A THOUSAND MILES

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he Belgian former racing car driver Jacky Ickx paid a visit to Chopard’s stand. The brand has been the official timekeeper of the legendary Mille Miglia race and has cultivated its exclusive Mille Miglia collection since 1988. Only automobiles that raced in historical races are eligible for the next Mille Miglia, which takes place from 14 to 17 May 2015. 1.0, D15

The sixteenth edition of ‘Watches International’ features the newest watches from the world’s most sophisticated watchmakers. Hundreds of beautiful photographs reveal the watches’ movements, functions, cases and dials, accompanied by detailed editorials and technical descriptions. As the A to Z of who’s who in the watch industry, the 2015 edition features everyone from Audemars Piguet to Blancpain, Breguet, Hublot, Patek Philippe and Zenith.

AS YEARS GO BY

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Watches International XVI, Rizzoli, 512 pages, 229 x 279 mm, English, ISBN 978-0-8478-4554-5, CHF 35.00 Jörg Heinz (founder and CEO of the company).

Didier Gottardini is signing his book on Masonic clocks and watches at the bookshop on Tuesday, 24th March from 11am to 12pm. The book is entitled ‘De Midi à Minuit – Les Maîtres Horlogers’ [From Midday to Midnight – The Master Watchmakers].

BOOKSHOP All books are available at the bookshop in Hall 2.0, W25 and on www.watchprint.com

STRONG VOICE

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he Canadian-German opera and musical singer Anna Maria Kaufmann appeared at the stand of Groh + Ripp. She has performed leading roles in ‘Phantom of the Opera’ and is well known for her numerous classical singing roles. 3.0, B09

örg Heinz, the German jewellery brand, celebrated its 40th year at Baselworld with a party in the German Finest Lounge on Sunday. Company founder Jörg Heinz first exhibited at the show in 1975, when the fair was still called MuBa (“Mustermesse Basel”). Friends, companions and customers were invited to a get2.1, B31 together on Sunday.

84 WORLD OF BASEL

DA I LY N E W S

TUESDAY, MARCH 24.2015

IMPRINT

“TIME IS A FRIEND IF YOU USE IT THE WAY YOU WANT TO”

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arion Bartoli is a French former professional tennis player. She won the Wimbledon Championships Ladies’ Singles title in 2013 and this year, she visited Saint Honoré as a friend of the brand. BWDN: After your surprising retirement from professional tennis in 2013, what are your current projects? Marion Bartoli: Actually, my own jewellery line is about to arrive. I collaborated with a French jewellery brand to design my own pieces. I have always been passionate about creating and crafting something, so I am glad

CHF 60.– CHF 150.–

CATALOGUE BASELWORLD 2015 The World Watch and Jewellery Show CHF 40.– PRESS CENTRE Hall 1, entrance South on the 1st floor NEWSCORNER On the Exhibition Square Providing all the international daily newspapers, economic journals and selected fashion and lifestyle magazines, as well as the complete spectrum of publications revolving around the watch and jewellery industry. BASELWORLD SHOP On the Exhibition Square Catalogue Centre, Book Shop, SBB Swiss Federal Railways, Läckerli-Huus RAIL SBB Swiss Federal Railways Baselworld Shop, on the Exhibition Square Swiss railway SBB, tel. +41 900 300 300 French railway SNCF, tel. +33 892 35 35 35 German railway DB, tel. +49 1805 99 66 33 AIR TRAVEL SERVICE Swiss International Air Lines Reservation Swiss International Air Lines, tel. +41 848 700 700 Information EuroAirport Basel-MulhouseFreiburg: tel. +41 61 325 31 11 Zurich Airport: tel. 0900 30 03 13

Editorial Management: Mathias Menzel, Caroline Schiedt tel. +41 61 699 80 57 [email protected] Editors: Watches: William George Shuster (wgs), Iris Wimmer-Olbort (iwi), Sabine Zwettler (sz)

Looking back at your past and the hard decisions you have taken, you must have a special relationship to time. Do you consider time to be an enemy or a friend? Time is a friend as long as you use your time the way you want to. And for me, I’ve been extremely lucky with the past ten years of my life. To be 30 years’ old and to have done so much but to also feel that I still have a lot to do.

GENER A L INF ORM AT ION

PRICES OF ADMISSION Day ticket Eight-day ticket

Managing Director: Dr. Christian Jürgens

Where does your affinity for watches and jewellery come from? I think it’s because my mum used to wear so much jewellery. And also it gives more personality to who you are. So I just love to dress and add pieces. Sometimes, people want to be minimalist, but I am the opposite – the more the better.

Marion Bartoli with Olivier Birault, CEO of Saint Honoré.

OPENING HOURS Daily: 9 am – 6 pm Last day (Thursday, March 26): 9 am – 4 pm

BASELWORLD Daily News A publication by Untitled Verlag und Agentur GmbH & Co. KG

to start a new career in designing products around my name.

AIRPORT EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg (10 km from Basel city centre) and Zurich Airport (90 km from Basel city centre). A shuttle bus service is available which takes you directly to the Basel Exhibition Centre from EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg (daily from 8.15 am to 7.15 pm) as well as from Zurich Airport (daily from 7.30 am to 7 pm). LOST PROPERTY Hall 2.0 tel. +41 58 206 26 12, fax +41 58 206 20 70 TRAM Tram stop “Messeplatz” Trams no. 2 and 1 to SBB and SNCF railway stations (8 min.) Trams no. 2 and 6 to German railway station “Badischer Bahnhof ” (2 min.) BASEL TOURISM Tourist Information/Hotel reservation in the Stadtcasino at Barfüsserplatz, CH-4010 Basel tel. +41 61 268 68 68 fax +41 61 268 68 70 [email protected] www.basel.com EXHIBITION CUSTOMS OFFICE Hall 2, Foyer tel. +41 58 206 21 22 BANK – CHANGE – SAFE Basler Kantonalbank: Congress Center branch UPCOMING DATES FOR BASELWORLD March 17 – March 24, 2016 March 23 – March 30, 2017

Jewellery: Dr. Roberto Chilleri (rc), Nina Hald (nh), Axel Henselder (ahe), Christel Trimborn (cete) Gemstones: Christoph Hoffmann (ch), Gary Roskin (gr), Deborah Yonick (dy) Markets: Axel Henselder (ahe) Innovations: Pia Grund-Ludwig (pgl), Markus Strehlitz (ms) World of Basel: Viktoria Beidinger (vb) Contributors: Pooja Agarwal (pa), Gloria Belloni (gb), Carol Besler (cb), Kyra Brenzinger (kb), David Brough (db), Elizabeth Doerr (ed), Annalisa Fontana (af), Roberta Naas (rn)

R AISE YOUR GLASS!

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wiss sports watch manufacturer Certina does not only know how to speed up but also how to party! Brand director Tony Sulkey, Swatch Group UK, (right) enjoyed a relaxed time with many guests at the Certina stand, winding down with an aperitif. 1.0, A25C

FREE SHOW GUIDE FOR SMART PHONES

Art Direction: Janina Demiana Roll, Kerstin Vorwalter Layout: Eva Börger, Martin Tubbesing, Heike Wahnbaeck Picture editors: Tobias Indermühle, Andre Weinberg Photos: Hannes Magerstaedt, David Matthiesen, Volker Renner, Yvonne Schmedemann, Bernd Wackerbauer Translation and Proofreading: Ad Rem Sprachdienstleistungen, Amy Brooke, Prisca DeGroat, Howard Fine, Kenneth Ross

Get the free Baselworld App for your iPhone, iPad, BlackBerry and other smart phones! It contains an interactive 3D map of the show, visitor information, detailed information on the exhibitors as well as a selection of articles from the current Daily News issue.

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BASELWORLD VILLAGE: HIGHLIGHT THE NIGHT Great atmosphere, delicious food, cocktails and live music! WHEN Thursday, March 19, 2015 to Wednesday, March 25, 2015 6 pm to 2 am WHERE Binningerstrasse 14 CH-4051 Basel

RESTAURANTS Osteria Acqua – Italian culinary elixir in a unique setting www.acquabasilea.ch Baracca Zermatt – Enjoy Swiss food in a chalet-style atmosphere www.baraccazermatt.ch

We will be pleased to accept your table reservations on tel. +41 61 564 66 66

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NEW LINE SPIRIT BY ELLE ELLE COLLECTION IS PART OF THE HOUSE OF

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WE DIDN’T INTRODUCE THE TOURBILLON TO THE WORLD. WE INTRODUCED THE WORLD TO THE TOURBILLON. AMAZE WITH THE STUHRLING TOURBILLON. PERPLEXING AND INTRICATE IN DESIGN, IT PROVIDES A TRULY MYSTIFYING EXPERIENCE. IT IS AN EXHIBIT OF BRILLIANT CRAFTSMANSHIP AND FINE ENGINEERING. A WATCH REVERED BY ALL AND RECOGNIZED AS A SYMBOL OF PRESTIGE. THIS IS NOT A TIMEPIECE THAT IS MERELY ADDED TO A COLLECTION, IT IS ONE THAT DEFINES IT.

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BASELWORLD 2015

120 years of Swiss watchmaking 1895 It was in 1895 that M. Dreyfuss opened his factory in the Swiss town of La Chaux de Fonds. Demand for good value, quality merchandise ensured the business grew quickly.

1940 Rotary appointed official watch supplier to the British Army.

2009 Rotary introduces two significant initiatives - Waterproof Standard and Lifetime Guarantee

2013 Rotary becomes the Global Official Timekeeper for Chelsea FC

2014 Rotary is awarded the Queen’s Award for Enterprise in International Trade

Pacific An all gents, Swiss made collection inspired by the original Pacific models from the Rotary archive collection

THE DREYFUSS GROUP HALL 1.2. STAND D09

2015 Rotary celebrates 120 years of family heritage and Swiss watchmaking

THREE TIME ZONES AT A GL ANCE

PATRAVI TRAVELTEC FOURX Selected rose gold, precious titanium, extra-hard high-tech ceramic and tough natural rubber give time a new material form. Globetrotters will find that the Patravi TravelTec FourX brings them the perfect combination of luxury and high-tech. It displays three time zones at once and jumps across time zones at the touch of a button. With Carl F. Bucherer’s engineering on a miniature scale, your journey through time can begin. BOUND TO TRADITION – DRIVEN BY INNOVATION

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