Development of a novel method for natural dyeing of ...

Journal of Natural Fibers

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Development of a novel method for natural dyeing of cotton fabrics using ultrasonic radiations and acacia bark Assad Farooq, Muhammad Azeem Ashraf , Ayesha Rasheed, Jawairia Umar Khan & Farida Irshad To cite this article: Assad Farooq, Muhammad Azeem Ashraf , Ayesha Rasheed, Jawairia Umar Khan & Farida Irshad (2017): Development of a novel method for natural dyeing of cotton fabrics using ultrasonic radiations and acacia bark, Journal of Natural Fibers To link to this article: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/15440478.2017.1354743

Published online: 06 Sep 2017.

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JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS https://doi.org/10.1080/15440478.2017.1354743

Development of a novel method for natural dyeing of cotton fabrics using ultrasonic radiations and acacia bark Assad Farooqa, Muhammad Azeem Ashraf and Farida Irshada

a

, Ayesha Rasheedb, Jawairia Umar Khana,

a

Department of Fibre and Textile Technology, University of Agriculture, Faisalabad, Pakistan; bInstitute of Home Sciences, University of Agriculture, Faisalabad, Pakistan ABSTRACT

KEYWORDS

Natural dyeing has been the focus of many previous researches as a substitute for synthetic dyeing, which is a known hazardous process. However, the limitations in the color range and poor fastness properties are the main obstacles in the further development of natural dyeing processes. This work corresponds to the inclusion of ultrasonic energy to enhance the color yield and color fastness properties of fabrics dyed with natural dyes. Cotton fabrics were dyed with acacia dye using conventional infrared exhaust and ultrasonic assisted procedures. Moreover, the effects of different processing factors like temperature, time, and liquor ratio were also investigated, in order to optimize the process. The ultrasonic assisted dyeing shows promising results in terms of both shade depth and washing fastness.

Acacia; color fastness; cotton; natural dyes; sonochemistry; ultrasonic dyeing technique 关键词

阿拉伯树胶; 色牢度; 棉; 天然染料; 超声波染色技术

摘要

天然染料染色作为一种已知的危险染色方法，已成为许多研究的热点。然而，染色范围的限制和牢度差是天然染色工艺进一步发展的主要障碍。这项工作对应于加入超声能量以提高天然染料染色织物的色牢度和色牢度。棉织物与相思染料使用常规的排气和超声波辅助程序。此外，还研究了温度、时间、液比等工艺因素对优化过程的影响。超声波辅助染色在染色深度和水洗牢度方面均取得了良好的效果。

Introduction Today’s natural dyes are produced all over the world due their environment-friendly nature. Natural dyes are derived from the natural sources, so that is why they are ecofriendly in nature in contrast to synthetic dyes. Natural dyes obtained from plants are taken from leaves, roots, bark, fruits, and flowers and from animals they are taken from cochineal and clay sources (Guinot et al. 2006; Manhita et al. 2011). In these days, natural dye application rate increases in the textile industries due to the developing knowledge about natural dyes and because they are nonallergic to skin, have low toxicity, good biodegradability than synthetic dyes (Mirjalili, Nazarpoor, and Karimi 2011; Sarkar and Dhandapani 2009), and had antibacterial and therapeutic importance (Siva et al. 2012). In malice of their poorer fastness, natural dyes are extra suitable to environmentally conscious people around the world. The manipulation of nontoxic and ecofriendly natural dyes on textiles has become a concern of notable importance because of the upswing environmental knowledge in order to refrain from some dangerous synthetic dyes. Natural dyes also have some problems as follows: a complex process is used for dyeing, result reproducibility is low, and they have limited shades and blending issues. Natural dyes are nondurable CONTACT Muhammad Azeem Ashraf [email protected] Department of Fibre and Textile Technology, University of Agriculture, Faisalabad 38000, Pakistan. Color versions of one or more of the figures in the article can be found online at www.tandfonline.com/wjnf. © 2017 Taylor & Francis

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and difficult to apply. For enhancing the washing and light fastness properties, natural dyes need a mordant. Natural dyes on exposure to light, air, and perspiration fade. Dye applied on the fabric surface remains on the top of the fabric and can easily be washed out and becomes dull (Kulkarni et al. 2011). There are around 1300 species associated with acacia all over the world, and 950 are domestic to Australia while the remaining grow all over the dry tropical-to-warm temperature regions of Africa, America, and Southern Asia. Its bark is mainly used for making dye and contains many phenolic components such as acacetin, quercetin, tannins, and epigallocatechin (Saleh, Ya, and El-Badry 2013). It usually gives brown or blackish shades. It also has a medicinal value and cures rabies and diarrhea. The coloring parts of acacia dye are presented in Figure 1 and their reaction with cotton fabric is presented in Figures 2 and 3. Textile wet operations assisted by ultrasound are of great demand for the textile industry. Ultrasound seems to be a very bright alternative technique to give a far more quick stirring/mixing mechanism for the instant, frontier layer of liquid at the fiber’s surface. Sonication of liquid creates two main effects, which are cavitation and heating. When microscopic cavitation bubbles collapse at the surface of the solid substrate, they produce powerful shock waves that create efficacious stirring/mixing of the modified layer of liquid (Yachmenev, Blanchard, and Lambert 2004). The advantages of ultrasound in textile wet processing areas follows: lower cost, less energy consumption, less duration, and environment-friendly process. Ultrasound uniformly disperses the molecules in the bath, expels air molecule from the capillaries of fiber, and eliminates air by cavitation (Fakin et al. 2005). The ultrasound technique enhances the dye ability as well as improves the fastness properties of the dyed cotton fabric (Kamel et al. 2007).

Figure 1. Coloring parts of the acacia dye (Saleh, Ya, and El-Badry 2013).

Figure 2. Bonding of acacetin portion of acacia dye with cotton.

Figure 3. Bonding of quercetin portion of acacia dye with cotton.

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The effect of ultrasonic technique on the durability of the natural dye, shade depth, and fastness properties was studied and compared with conventional dyeing method with respect to physical and mechanical properties.

Materials and methods Materials For this study scoured and bleached cotton fabrics having specifications as given in Table 1 were used to study the effect of ultrasonic and conventional dyeing on natural dyes. Acacia bark was used as a source of natural dye for this purpose. Sodium hydroxide of analytical grade was used for experiments. Dyeing experiments were performed on high-temperature IR dyeing machine (Advance System Logic, Faisalabad, Pakistan), Datacolor Spectraflash SF600 CT-Plus was used for color strength measurement while washing fastness tests were carried on Launder-o-meter (SDL Atlas, South Carolina, USA). Extraction of natural dye To extract the natural dye colorant, the dried bark was crushed into powder form. The crushed acacia powder was sieved to get the uniform size. This dried powdered acacia dye was used to get the desired color. Then, 40 g acacia dye powder was taken in round-bottom flask to prepare a solution in 500 mL of 0.30 M NaOH. The mixture was refluxed for 75 min at 100°C. After this, filtration was carried out with muslin fabric, and the filtered solution was used for dyeing of cotton fabrics. Dyeing of cotton fabrics Cotton samples were dyed with conventional and ultrasonic assisted dyeing techniques according to research variables as given in Table 2. Conventional dyeing of the samples was done using IR dyeing machine with the exhaust (high-temperature) method, whereas ultrasonic assisted dyeing was carried out in an ultrasonic bath. The same variables as in case of conventional dyeing were selected for this procedure also. After dyeing, all the samples were taken out from the machine, washed with water, and dried. Testing of fabric characteristics The following fabric properties were measured as per standard testing methods: Shade depth Color strength (K/S) of the dyed fabric samples was measured on Datacolor Spectraflash SF600 CT-Plus spectrophotometer (Datacolor, NJ, USA). A spectrophotometer is a device used to measure the extent of Table 1. Specifications of fabrics. Composition 100% cotton

Weave type 1 × 1 Plain weave

Ends/picks 76/68

Yarn count 30/30

Table 2. Research variables. Dyeing technique Conventional Ultrasonic

Liquor ratio 1:10 1:12.5 1:15

Temperature (°C) 30 60 90

Time (min) 30 60

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light a sample (liquid or solid) absorbs. Light is passed through the sample and a detector measures the intensity of that light that passes through the sample. Tensile strength The tensile strength of the dyed fabric samples was measured according to ISO 13934–2 standard test method based on the constant rate of extension principle. A test sample clamped in the center area of the jaws in a given dimension was extended until it breaks. Then, the maximum force was recorded. Washing fastness Color fastness to washing test was performed according to ISO 105-C06 test method. The change of color of the dyed samples was evaluated by using the standard gray scale.

Results and discussion Shade depth (K/S) The color strength of the fabric samples dyed with acacia dye by ultrasonic assisted as well as conventional method is presented in Figure 4. The overall results showed that the color strength of ultrasonic assisted dyed samples is higher than conventionally dyed samples. The color strength of ultrasonic assisted dyed samples showed a decreasing trend with increase in time, i.e., higher color strength was observed at 30 min as compared to 60 min. The color strength of conventional dyed cotton fabric showed an increasing trend with time. So, it shows a higher color strength at 60 min rather than 30 min. At 30°C, the ultrasonic assisted dyed samples show optimum color strength, but at 60 °C, the samples show higher color strength; then again at 90°C the color strength decreases because at high temperature the degradation of dye starts. On comparison, ultrasonic assisted dyed samples show 20% higher color strength than the conventional dyed samples. These results get full support from the work of Merdan et al. (2004) who examined the ultrasonic effect on dyeing and reports about the dye uptake, percentage of exhaustion, and shade depth with different dyeing techniques. Dye transfer rate is higher in ultrasonic than the conventional method. The research of Lee, Chung, and Kim (2003) concluded that the larger molecules are diffused into smaller particles by ultrasonic energy. It helps to increase the dye uptake and dyeing rate.

Figure 4. Color strength of fabrics dyed at different processing conditions.


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These results also confirm the findings of Sivakumar and Rao (2001) who declared that ultrasonic assisted dyeing improved the dye penetration, shortens process time, makes low-temperature dyeing possible, and enhances the fastness properties in comparison to conventional processing.

Tensile strength The tensile strength of fabric samples dyed with acacia dye is presented in Figure 5. The overall results showed that the tensile strength of conventionally dyed samples is slightly higher than the ultrasonic assisted dyed samples. The tensile strength of ultrasonic assisted dyed samples showed a decreasing trend with increase in time, i.e., higher tensile strength was observed at 30 min as compared to 60 min. The tensile strength of conventional dyed cotton fabric also showed a decreasing trend with the time. So, it shows a higher tensile strength at 30 min rather than 60 min. At 30°C, the ultrasonic assisted dyed samples show a normal tensile strength, but at 60°C samples show a higher tensile strength; then at 90°C the tensile strength becomes low because the exposure of heat damages the fabric strength. On comparison, ultrasonic assisted dyed samples show a 5% lesser tensile strength than the conventional dyed samples. It may be due to the long processing duration at high temperature which weekend the fibers of the fabric (Arora et al. 2012).

Color fastness to washing The results for washing fastness of acacia dyed cotton fabrics are presented in Table 3. The overall results showed that color fastness to washing of ultrasonic assisted dyed samples is slightly higher than conventionally dyed samples. In washing fastness evaluation, the ultrasonic assisted samples show excellent or very good rating, while the conventional dyed samples show very good to good rating. So the ultrasonic assisted dyed samples have a higher washing fastness than the conventional dyed samples. These results get full support from the work of Akalin et al. (2004) who demonstrated the ultrasonic energy effects on the wash fastness properties and concluded that this method gives better wash fastness results than the other conventional methods.

Figure 5. Tensile strength of fabric dyed with acacia dye at different processing conditions.

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Table 3. Color fastness to washing of acacia dyed cotton fabrics. Time (min)

Material:Liquor ratio 1:10 1:12.5 1:15

Temperature (°C) 30 60 90 30 60 90 30 60 90

30

60

Washing fastness

Washing fastness

Ultrasonic 3–4 3–4 4 3–4 3–4 4 3–4 4 4

Conventional 3 3–4 4 3 3 3–4 3–4 3–4 3–4

Ultrasonic 3–4 4 3–4 3–4 3–4 4 4 4–5 4

Conventional 3 4 4 3 3–4 4 4 4 3–4

Note: Excellent = 5 Very Good = 4 Good = 3 Ordinary = 2 Poor = 1.

Conclusions Natural dyes extracted from acacia bark can be applied successfully on the cotton fabric via ultrasonic assisted bath and have the following advantages ● Eco-friendly, nontoxics, and noncarcinogenic ● Ultrasonic assisted method can save process time and energy. ● Ultrasonic energy-assisted dyed fabric showed a higher color strength as compared to con-

ventionally dyed fabrics ● It gives better results of fastness properties even at low temperature and in less time. ● Ultrasonic assisted dyeing technique performed well at minimum time. ● Ultrasonic assisted dyed samples have a comparable tensile strength with respect to conven-

tional dyed samples.

ORCID Muhammad Azeem Ashraf

http://orcid.org/0000-0002-8716-4029

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