Exploring cosmetics advertising in southern China

International Journal of Advertising The Quarterly Review of Marketing Communications

ISSN: 0265-0487 (Print) 1759-3948 (Online) Journal homepage: http://www.tandfonline.com/loi/rina20

Exploring cosmetics advertising in southern China Bradley R. Barnes, Noel Y.M. Siu, Qionglei Yu & Sally S.Y. Chan To cite this article: Bradley R. Barnes, Noel Y.M. Siu, Qionglei Yu & Sally S.Y. Chan (2009) Exploring cosmetics advertising in southern China, International Journal of Advertising, 28:2, 369-393, DOI: 10.2501/S0265048709200606 To link to this article: http://dx.doi.org/10.2501/S0265048709200606

Published online: 07 Jan 2015.

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Date: 06 November 2017, At: 17:49

Exploring cosmetics advertising in southern China

An investigation of Hong Kong and Shenzhen Bradley R. Barnes University of Kent

Downloaded by [Hong Kong Baptist University] at 17:49 06 November 2017

Noel Y.M. Siu

Hong Kong Baptist University

Qionglei Yu

Zhejiang Gongshang University

Sally S.Y. Chan

Leeds University Business School

China is now one of the largest and fastest-growing advertisement markets in the world. This research provides insights to assist advertising executives in their bid to target cosmetics consumers in Hong Kong and Shenzhen. Despite a tendency to retain certain traditional values, we find that Chinese women in these cities have increased their status and independence, and are inspired by western brands, music and images. We discover some significant differences between these markets, which suggest that some adaptations may be required in terms of advertising appeal, model selection and media focus, when designing advertising campaigns that will influence the consumer groups in these cities.

Introduction China is rapidly emerging as a highly attractive advertising market. Due to a combination of foreign direct investment and high economic growth, advertising expenditure has exceeded US$7.2 billion, resulting in China overtaking South Korea to become the second-largest advertising market in Asia. With an estimated 76,200 advertising agencies and a 14.8% growth rate (2003–04), China is one of the largest and fastest-growing advertisement markets in the world (Harney 2004; China Advertising Yearbook 2005). International Journal of Advertising, 28(2), pp. 369–393 © 2009 Advertising Association Published by the World Advertising Research Center, www.warc.com DOI: 10.2501/S0265048709200606

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International Journal of Advertising, 2009, 28(2)

The infrastructure surrounding China’s mass media is well developed and integrated, and the 1995 PRC Advertising Law provides guidance on all forms of media (Liu 2002). Along with economic reforms, Chinese people’s perceptions of advertisements are changing rapidly, and are made ever more complex by the socio-economic disparities that exist among communities from the many different geographical regions within China. Despite modernisation, traditional Chinese values have persisted, posing dilemmas for advertising executives to develop creative campaigns that can work within a Chinese cultural context (Zhou & Belk 2004). The research carried out by the authors is designed to assist international cosmetics companies by providing a framework for an effective advertising strategy in targeting women in Hong Kong and Shenzhen. We consider the two cities to be of significant interest to warrant such research, because they are simultaneously alike, yet are also distinct from one another. There is no dispute that Hong Kong and Shenzhen residents share common cultural traits, speak the same Chinese dialect and, over recent years (since the handover of Hong Kong to China in 1997 and the establishment of CEPA – the Closer Economic Partnership Agreement – in 2004), the two cities have become more open in terms of the movement of goods and people. However, from a political and environmental perspective, both cities are quite different from one another. Hong Kong, under British colonisation for over 150 years, has developed into a multicultural, highly sophisticated free market economy, where western ideology and lifestyles coexist within the greater framework of a Chinese work ethic culture (Tam & Redding 1993). This has resulted in high economic status and educational levels for Hong Kong residents, which compares well with other major cities in the world. In sharp contrast, the same cannot be concluded of Shenzhen, which has been subject to a historic state-controlled system and has yet to reach the same level of economic prosperity associated with Hong Kong. For example, although Shenzhen’s GDP per capita is the highest in China, it represents only a quarter of that associated with Hong Kong (Shenzhen Yearbook 2005). In summary, the two cities provide for an interesting comparative study as their close geographical proximity, social convergence from internal migration, yet different political-economic backgrounds (Hong Kong as a

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former British colony) combine as the main factors that may explain some of the common cultural traits that these communities share, as well as provide insights as to how the aspirations and lifestyles of consumer groups in these cities differ. The study aims to explore the notions of advertising appeals, the use of endorsers, and the reliance on product information and media selection between the two cities. Specifically, the objectives are fourfold: (1) to compare Hong Kong and Shenzhen female consumer perceptions of global and local advertising appeals in cosmetics advertising; (2) to analyse the use of global and local endorsers in Chinese cosmetics advertisements; (3) to investigate the reliance on product information contained within cosmetics advertisements by Hong Kong and Shenzhen female consumers; (4) to consider the influence of different media vehicles in promoting cosmetics to both groups of consumers. Based on our objectives, to help structure the research and provide a rationale for integrating the areas outlined above, a framework has been developed as shown in Figure 1. This diagram is Figure 1: Research framework structure not suggesting any particular association between the Standardisation/ Reference adaptation groups items, it is merely used here to provide a template of Advertising academic attributes that can decisions be of use at a practical level, i.e. for firms to consider when Media Product making advertising decisions selection information relating to the two markets.

Background Having the largest number of female consumers in the world, the cosmetics industry in mainland China has boomed during the past two decades, with total retail sales exceeding US$6 billion in 2003 (Euromonitor 2004). There are approximately 3000 cosmetics companies on the mainland, and most of these are national, targeting rural workers and residents in the smaller cities. The major players in China represent global cosmetics suppliers, and account for around 90% of market share (Lee 2004). In Hong

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Kong, the picture is very much the same, with over 95% of the supply being imported by global cosmetics companies (Cheong 2002). The Hong Kong market for cosmetics is estimated to be worth in excess of US$700 million. Japanese companies have a 19% share of the market, followed by North American (17%), mainland Chinese (17%) and French (12%) suppliers (Cheong 2002). Hong Kong’s GDP per capita is in line with the world’s leading economies, with high employment salaries. Sales of cosmetics have remained buoyant over time, even during periods of recession. On average, per capita spending on health and beauty products in 2003 among women was approximately US$69 per month, representing a 10% growth rate from the previous year (Lam 2004). The city also operates as an important entrepot for the regional trading of cosmetics products, and as a gateway to China. As China is now a member of the World Trade Organization (WTO), import duties for cosmetics are set to reduce. Hong Kong companies, with their geographical proximity to China, will be able to take advantage of the increased trading opportunities for cosmetics. Another key factor in the market for cosmetics is the improved status of Hong Kong women over the years, with many undertaking further and higher education. The proportion of women employed in managerial and professional occupations has also increased steadily (Keating 1989; http:// www.women.gov.hk). With financial independence and an improved socio-economic status, Hong Kong women have an increasingly stronger purchasing power than ever before and are more concerned with enhancing their health and beauty. Along with rapid economic growth and a well-developed media infrastructure, Shenzhen’s cosmetics industry is thriving. The city’s residents have the highest disposable income in the country, with cars being the most popular commodity desired by the burgeoning middle-class urbanites (Murphy 2003; EIU ViewsWire 2004a). Unlike many women from other cities on the mainland, women in Shenzhen have higher levels of disposable income, tend to be more assertive and have fewer family ties/ responsibilities. These changes may explain why cosmetics advertised using international or Hong Kong celebrities have achieved continued success in Shenzhen, despite their high price and premium positioning (Keating 1989; http://www.szonline.net).

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Literature review


Standardisation and adaptation One of the main issues for firms operating globally is whether to standardise or localise their strategy, and there have been long debates over such issues in international advertising. Advocates of standardisation put their faith in the premise that wants and needs are universal to all people, and that a carefully conceived and executed appeal can strike responsive chords with consumers (Peebles 1978). In contrast, a localised approach considers markets to be culturally distinct, and the company must adapt to accommodate such differences (Cateora & Graham 2002). A combination strategy or contingency approach (Agrawal 1995) holds to the belief that the most effective advertising strategy varies depending on the situation (Kotler 1986; Walters 1986). Supporters of this hybrid approach often believe that, although human wants and needs may be universal, the way to address these frequently varies among different cultures (Kanso 1992). Research by Yin (1999) discovered that 140 out of 186 international companies (76%) used a combination strategy. This approach is becoming increasingly popular in China, with many focusing on the language used, product attributes or the choice of models (Zhou & Belk 2004). Language reflects a particular culture since the spoken language manifests beliefs and attitudes. The main issue concerning language in terms of brand name is widely discussed in international advertising (Terpstra & Sarathy 1997). Language is one of the most important factors influencing international advertising in China (Hite & Fraser 1988), and because the Chinese language is a complex and distinctive one, the translation of international brand names by sounds or by meaning has been widely discussed (Chan & Huang 1997). In Hong Kong, English is frequently spoken, and the city’s cosmopolitan population implies that people are more exposed to foreign culture compared with those on the mainland. Product information and reference groups Although concepts surrounding product attributes are often universal, Hornik (1980) discovered that specific attribute perceptions vary

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significantly between different societies of people. Advertising content should therefore aim to match with these perceptions for any given society. The content of advertisements consists of both verbal and visual aspects, where pictures and images are often just as important as written or spoken material (Dyer 1999). Pictures present culture-specific association norms, and their use in advertisements often has a great influence on the perception of products (Hung & Marshall 1995). In cosmetics advertising, images featuring attractive models represent the genre convention that can be effective in influencing the audience’s desire for the products being advertised by encouraging them to emulate the models. Perceptions of what constitutes beauty/attractiveness are also changing in China, and although foreign/western models may be associated with high fashion status, some companies may prefer to employ Chinese models in order to project a more traditional image in the minds of Chinese consumers (Zhou & Belk 2004). Apart from models, other factors may appeal that influence consumers. According to Kilbourne (1993), advertisements can portray values, images, concepts of success, love and sexuality, popularity and normality to consumers. Cheng’s (1994) research into advertising in China discovered that softsell, traditional and collectivism appeals frequently appeared and proved to be effective in advertisements. He also found that, among the younger generation, an increased spirit of individualism and independence played a greater role in influencing attitudes. According to Stewart et al. (1990), music in advertising can be more memorable than words. Therefore, using music that suits the tastes of people in a particular culture may help in creating a positive image that enhances consumer interest. Research on the use and influence of global/local endorsers deserves particular attention since it affects the credibility of products being advertised. In Hong Kong, the trend is for companies to use celebrity endorsements in advertising as a perceived winning formula for corporate image building and product marketing. For example, the models featured in Oil of Olay advertisements have varied from ‘girl-next-door’ themed campaign formats, to the use of well-known Chinese celebrities, such as Maggie Zhang, in a bid to enhance the popularity of the brands being advertised. The use of celebrity endorsements in advertising or as spokespeople has become increasingly popular as companies recognise the added value and increased sales that such a practice may bring to their products,

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irrespective of the fact that some products may not have a clear link with the celebrities concerned (Leung 2003).


Media selection Difficulties may also arise in the selection of appropriate media for international advertising because of its availability, technical quality and capability to deliver the right message to the required target audience (Jones 2000). The mass media market is well established in both Hong Kong and Shenzhen, where the latest telecommunications technology has been available for some time. Although subjected to stringent censorship, TV is a particularly effective tool for its opportunities to reach target audiences, and two national TV channels provide free programmes to the populations in Hong Kong and the southern regions of mainland China (Chiu 2003). Aside from TV, print media is the second most common media vehicle in China, accounting for 31.3% of all advertising expenditure, with over 8000 types of magazine (Liu 2002). Two main categories, namely women’s magazines and leisure/fashion magazines, have high circulation figures – the latter provide news about celebrities, fashion and cosmetics, and shopping/entertainment guides that can reach over 500,000 Hong Kong readers per week. Although women’s magazines have a relatively lower circulation rate of 170,000 people per month, they offer a more focused approach, with the readership representing women aged 20–40, in the medium- to high-income categories (http://www.hkacu.com.hk). Between 1983 and 2004, the average annual growth rate of advertising on mainland China was: TV 40%, radio 30%, magazines 30% and newspapers 33%. In contrast, the growth of advertising in Hong Kong has been less significant (TV 25%, newspapers 3%, magazines 10% and radio -8%) (Euromonitor 2003; China Advertising Yearbook 2005).

Methodology A research instrument was designed based on the research objectives and strands of the literature. The questions were categorised into the following four areas: media selection, standardisation and adaptation, reference groups and endorsers, and product information (see the Appendix). Fivepoint semantic differential scales were developed to measure consumer

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preferences. Although due to Confucian values, 5- or 7-point scales may bias the Chinese towards mid-point responses, a pilot test with ten Chinese women did not reveal any tendencies to centrally respond. Neither was this recognised as being a problem when the instrument was pre-tested with a further 30 respondents. Therefore it was decided to retain the five item measures, as the mid-point was considered to represent a valid measure. Overall the pilot and pre-test proved worthwhile, and several modifications relating to an improved structure, layout and wording content of the instrument were implemented. After comparing different data collection methods, and considering some of the obstacles identified by Roy et al. (2001) when undertaking primary research (particularly China’s vast size and problems relating to obtaining access), four research assistants were employed in the data collection process. Because the majority of consumers of international cosmetics brands in Hong Kong and Shenzhen represent women aged 18–40 years with mid to high earnings (Lam 2004), a mall-intercept survey was undertaken in eight major shopping malls throughout both cities, whereby one in every 20 passing female shoppers in this age category was approached and asked to take part in the survey. A combined sample size of 300 was achieved, 150 from the two cities, which was judged appropriate and exceeded that in similar research (see Barnes et al. 2004). In terms of respondent demographics, no fundamental differences were apparent between the two groups in terms of their occupations. Most respondents from both cities were engaged in either administrative or clerical positions, management or professional posts, the civil service, as well as retail and sales. The Hong Kong respondents were marginally younger than the Shenzhen women – 94% of them were between 18 and 25 years of age. A significant number of respondents from Shenzhen and the majority of Hong Kong women sampled were university graduates. While the vast majority of the Hong Kong respondents originated from Hong Kong, the Shenzhen women, as expected, came from different regions throughout China.

Findings In terms of respondents’ ability to pronounce western brand names, translated brand names and the importance they attached to the meanings from

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the translations, it was discovered that both Shenzhen and Hong Kong respondents had mixed opinions (see Table 1). The p-values indicate significant differences between Hong Kong and Shenzhen respondents in terms of the importance they attached to their ability to pronounce translated brand names, and the level of importance associated with the meanings attached to the translation. Thus, Shenzhen women (compared with the Hong Kong respondents) consider their ability to pronounce the translated brand name and its associated meaning to be more important (p < 0.01). This could be because Shenzhen women have had relatively less exposure to foreign language and culture than their Hong Kong counterparts, and interpret brand messages differently. The ability to pronounce the western brand, however, was considered to be significantly more important to the Hong Kong than the Shenzhen respondents (p < 0.05). With regard to the preference for an original or translated brand, the data indicate that both Shenzhen and Hong Kong respondents have preference for the original (western) brand of cosmetics, compared with a translated brand name. A total of 45% of Shenzhen respondents prefer the original or western brand name, while 28% have a preference for a translated brand name. A total of 77% of Hong Kong women prefer the original or western Table 1: Brand names Variables measured

Level of importance (%)

t-statistics

Unimportant … Neutral … Very important

Mean

SD

t-values

p-values

29 20

3.43 3.70

1.27 0.94

–2.086

0.038

32 3

3.42 2.26

1.34 1.06

8.363

0.000

Importance attached to the meaning of the translated name Shenzhen 13 9 32 16 30 Hong Kong 23 28 33 11 5

3.41 2.49

1.34 1.12

6.481

0.000

Ability to pronounce the western brand name Shenzhen 10 8 40 Hong Kong 2 8 28

13 42

Ability to pronounce the translated brand name in Chinese Shenzhen 12 9 37 11 Hong Kong 30 27 34 6

Level of preference (%) Variables measured

Strong preference for original brand … Strong preference for translated brand

Preference for original/translated brand names Shenzhen 39 6 27 Hong Kong 52 25 17

t-statistics

5 5

23 1

Mean

SD

t-values

p-values

2.66 1.79

1.58 0.99

5.733

0.000

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brand, while just 6% prefer a translated brand. Based on our sample, this may suggest a converging trend in the two cities in terms of similar preferences for western branded cosmetics. The associated p-value indicates there is a statistically significant difference between the two samples of respondents (p < 0.01), suggesting that Hong Kong women have a significantly greater preference for the original or western-branded cosmetics than the Shenzhen respondents. This finding could relate to Hong Kong women’s greater exposure, familiarity and receptiveness to the western language and foreign brands. Regarding the preference of eastern or western female models featured in ads (see Table 2), a large number of respondents from Shenzhen reported a preference for eastern-looking models, while many respondents from Hong Kong reported a preference for western-looking models. One reason for this could be that Hong Kong people tend to develop a mindset to appreciate foreign things and models – since the influence of western culture on Hong Kong people is great due to its status and history as a former British colony. However, Shenzhen respondents may have a greater sense of Chinese tradition, thus models of a similar ethnic origin may appeal due to their association among consumers, and may portray an image to which they can aspire. The p-values suggest there is a statistically significant difference between the two respondent groups. Female consumers from the two cities are shown to prefer different ethnicities of the models featured in the ads. This may imply the need to develop some form of localisation among international cosmetics suppliers in their design of advertising to appeal specifically to Shenzhen consumers, with

Table 2: Preference of model and music Level of preference (%) Variables measured

Preference for western/eastern models Shenzhen 16 1 Hong Kong 17 23

41 36

6 14

Preference for western/eastern music Shenzhen 23 9 Hong Kong 23 26

45 40

7 11

378

t-statistics

Strong preference for western … Neutral … Strong preference for eastern

Mean

SD

t-values

p-values

35 11

3.43 2.78

1.40 1.20

4.342

0.000

17 1

2.87 2.42

1.31 1.00

3.296

0.001



a more standardised approach featuring western models being perhaps more suitable in Hong Kong. In terms of music preference, a large percentage of Shenzhen and Hong Kong respondents have no preference for western or eastern music. However, by and large, a greater number of respondents from both cities (particularly Hong Kong) expressed preference for western, rather than eastern music in cosmetics ads. This signals some intent among respondents towards a westernised approach in music, despite both cities sharing a long history of traditional Chinese music. The p-value suggests that a significant difference emerged between the two groups of women regarding their preference for music in cosmetics advertising – a larger number of women from Hong Kong preferring western to eastern music than in Shenzhen. The finding suggests that it may be possible to standardise music themes and styles in cosmetics ads in Hong Kong, but more caution may be required in Shenzhen. In terms of their level of importance, cosmetics experts/specialists, celebrities and models are among the top three reference groups that influence Shenzhen and Hong Kong consumers (see Table 3). It is particularly evident from the study that only 13% of Shenzhen and 14% of Hong Kong respondents felt it was very important to see everyday people in cosmetics advertising. The p-values indicate significant differences

Table 3: Importance of reference groups Variables measured Celebrities Shenzhen Hong Kong


t-statistics

Unimportant … Neutral … Very important 10 5

Mean

SD

t-values

p-values

8 9

56 29

13 44

13 13

3.11 3.50

1.07 1.01

–3.210

0.001

Cosmetics experts/specialists Shenzhen 11 Hong Kong 5

12 10

40 32

19 39

18 15

3.22 3.51

1.19 1.02

–2.217

0.027

Everyday people Shenzhen Hong Kong

19 12

11 12

43 43

13 19

13 14

2.89 3.11

1.24 1.16

–1.583

0.114

Models Shenzhen Hong Kong

13 5

11 7

53 42

16 36

7 9

2.94 3.35

1.04 0.95

–3.590

0.000

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between the two groups sampled in terms of the importance attached to the use of celebrities and models in cosmetics ads (p < 0.01). Hong Kong respondents had greater affinity for the use of celebrities and models than the Shenzhen women sampled. By and large, both groups felt that it was relatively important to see cosmetics experts or specialists in cosmetics advertising, closely followed by celebrities and models. Women from both cities share different preferences in terms of the key advertising appeal (see Table 4). Shenzhen respondents prefer a sophisticated appearance most, followed by an outgoing/lively appeal. In contrast, Hong Kong women felt that ideal-looking was the most striking attribute, followed by a sophisticated appeal. An independent appeal appeared third for both Hong Kong and Shenzhen respondents, suggesting that this attribute is of considerable importance. However, the rank order of the other appeals for the two samples is totally different. Ideal-looking and Table 4: Importance of advertising appeals Variables measured

Level of preference (%)

t-statistics

Strongly dislike … Neutral … Strongly like

Mean

SD

t-values

p-values

Fashionable Shenzhen Hong Kong

14 4

10 6

53 31

8 44

15 15

3.01 3.60

1.17 0.95

–4.854

0.000

Sophisticated Shenzhen Hong Kong

5 1

5 11

15 23

16 36

60 29

4.22 3.81

1.15 1.02

3.298

0.001

Independent Shenzhen Hong Kong

7 1

6 11

29 19

22 48

36 21

3.75 3.77

1.20 0.95

–0.173

0.863

Sexy Shenzhen Hong Kong

17 5

9 15

35 45

17 26

23 10

3.20 3.21

1.34 0.98

–0.109

0.913

Carefree Shenzhen Hong Kong

8 5

7 12

40 32

17 38

28 13

3.51 3.41

1.20 1.03

0.747

0.456

Outgoing/lively Shenzhen Hong Kong

5 3

9 9

29 29

19 46

38 13

3.77 3.59

1.18 0.92

1.506

0.133

Ideal-looking Shenzhen Hong Kong

8 1

6 3

35 14

15 36

36 46

3.65 4.23

1.25 0.88

–4.640

0.000

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carefree were ranked fourth and fifth by Shenzhen respondents, followed by sexy and fashionable attributes, while ads that featured fashionable and outgoing women were considered more relevant than carefree and sexy appeals among Hong Kong women. The p-values demonstrate that Shenzhen respondents had greater preference for a sophisticated appeal than the Hong Kong women sampled (p < 0.01). In contrast, the Hong Kong sample appeared to have significantly greater preference for fashionable (p < 0.01) and ideal-looking appeals (p < 0.01) than the Shenzhen women. The vast majority of respondents from both cities felt that product information in cosmetics advertising was to some extent important (see Table 5). Only 8% of Shenzhen and 6% of Hong Kong respondents considered such detail to be relatively unimportant. Product information in cosmetics advertising therefore appears to be essential. The statistics suggest that there is no significant difference in respondents’ perceptions associated with the importance of product information.

Table 5: Importance of information in cosmetics advertising Variables measured


t-statistics


Availability of product information Shenzhen 1 7 Hong Kong 3 3

25 23

17 40

51 30

Mean

SD

t-values

p-values

4.09 3.90

1.07 0.98

1.576

0.116

TV, magazines and outdoor advertising represent the three most influential media for cosmetics purchased in Hong Kong and Shenzhen (see Table 6). In Shenzhen, TV proved to be the most important, followed by magazines. Outdoor advertisements may also be considered for supporting ad initiatives in Shenzhen, since 23% of the respondents thought that it was relatively important. Newspapers and radio meanwhile seemed to exert little influence on the Shenzhen respondents. For Hong Kong women, magazines were considered to be the most important medium, followed by outdoor advertising. The descriptive statistics suggest that TV and newspaper ads may also be useful in Hong Kong for supporting magazines and outdoor. In contrast, radio offers very little influence.

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Table 6: Influence of media on cosmetics purchase


Variables measured


t-statistics


Mean

SD

t-values

p-values

25 11

3.37 3.32

1.17 0.98

0.391

0.696

3 12

5 2

2.26 2.27

1.16 1.08

–0.090

0.929

42 13

21 50

17 27

3.27 3.91

1.12 0.98

–5.332

0.000

19 18

42 40

7 24

9 7

2.59 2.99

1.18 1.07

–3.089

0.002

17 11

45 30

9 36

14 17

2.89 3.44

1.19 1.11

–4.091

0.000

TV Shenzhen Hong Kong

9 5

5 13

51 39

9 33

Radio Shenzhen Hong Kong

38 30

11 29

43 27

Magazine Shenzhen Hong Kong

8 3

12 7

Newspaper Shenzhen Hong Kong

23 11

Outdoor Shenzhen Hong Kong

15 7

The p-values indicate that significant differences exist between the two groups, with the Hong Kong sample of women having higher perceptions associated with the importance of outdoor advertising than the Shenzhen respondents (p < 0.01). Outdoor may therefore be more influential for Hong Kong women. In addition, magazine and newspaper ads also appear to be more important for Hong Kong, compared with the Shenzhen women sampled (p < 0.01).

Implications and discussion The findings from this study suggest that magazines are an influential advertising vehicle for cosmetics companies interested in communicating their brand benefits to target consumers in Hong Kong and Shenzhen. They represent an effective tool for companies to provide readers with detailed product information, and convey these with a sense of authority (Shimp 2003). Advertising space in magazines is comparatively easy to buy, and although the costs of advertising in different publications may vary greatly, the personal nature of the medium means that messages may have a longer-lasting effect than TV. Magazines also tend to attract a loyal

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readership, and the combination of visual art with heavy copy allows cosmetics companies to reinforce positive messages about their brands. Cosmopolitan, Elle and Ray would probably be the most appropriate magazines for such advertisements, as these publications attract a modern Chinese female readership, and allow companies to provide relevant product information that will appeal to both Hong Kong and Shenzhen female consumers. In particular, magazines are effective when used in conjunction with TV. According to Anderson (1982), television is particularly useful for activating consumer awareness as it enlivens the mind to receive sales messages. This is witnessed by the extensive use of television advertising by the likes of French cosmetics company L’Oréal and the Oil of Olay brand in accessing the cosmetics markets in both Hong Kong and Shenzhen. Although TV advertisements have relatively high associated costs, the ability to communicate persuasively and convince consumers using a mix of visual and audio effects make them a worthwhile investment (Shimp 2003). Multinational firms advertising cosmetics in the two Chinese cities should therefore consider adopting a media mix of TV and magazines for reaching their target audiences. Despite the technological revolution that is sweeping China and Hong Kong, advertisers must ensure that TV ownership is reflected in the population that they are targeting, as well as that the timing and frequency of campaigns achieve a high opportunity to see (OTS) from typical cosmetics buyers in both Shenzhen and Hong Kong. TV advertisements facilitate both emotional and rational choices in consumers, and there is plenty of scope for cosmetics companies to dramatise the brand’s benefits or focus on product performance when appealing to their target markets. In addition to TV and magazines, outdoor can help trigger and reinforce brand awareness, as well as provide support for particular campaigns. Despite the inherent problems of ‘noise’ arising from potential saturation of such media in the more densely populated districts of metropolitan cities like Hong Kong, the potential to reach target audiences quickly cannot be ignored. This research demonstrates that outdoor continues to be a relatively important communication tool for reaching a large number of Hong Kong and Shenzhen consumers. International cosmetics companies are therefore advised to consider such an approach. The use of newspaper advertising for the promotion of cosmetics in Shenzhen does not appear to reflect its more common usage in the

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West. Newspapers were not deemed an important medium for Shenzhen women and are therefore not the recommended medium for advertising cosmetics. In contrast, newspapers were considered more effective in Hong Kong, where the press industry is particularly well developed, and a broad mix of titles exists that appeal to different types of reader. Women here have access to a plethora of Chinese as well as English newspapers, such as Sing Tao and the South China Morning Post. Companies using newspapers would benefit from the flexibility that such a medium affords in terms of ad formats, and the opportunity to reinforce product-related information about specific brands at a relatively low cost. In contrast, companies are strongly recommended not to invest in radio as a medium for cosmetics advertising. The findings in this study suggest that this medium was not considered to be important among female respondents in either Hong Kong or Shenzhen. The research has highlighted that a large number of Hong Kong and Shenzhen women have a preference for original brand names when it comes to cosmetics. Foreign cosmetics companies targeting Chinese female consumers in Shenzhen and Hong Kong should therefore maintain the original brand name as far as possible. Despite this, a large number of women in Shenzhen also favoured translated brand names and this fact must not be ignored. When using a standardised brand to target different international consumer groups, it is recommended that the translated equivalent of the brand name be displayed clearly – particularly if the companies wish their products to appeal to those Shenzhen consumers that have a preference for translated brands. The translation could be derived from similar-sounding words or an equivalent meaning. This would be more effective for standardised international brands because they are closely linked to the original when pronounced. However, care must be taken to ensure that the meaning of the translated brand name does not cause offence or imply any negative meaning (McCarthy & Perreault 1987). This study has found that the meanings attached to brand names were deemed important for a large number of Shenzhen respondents, and this needs to be considered by advertising planners accordingly. Chinese cosmetics consumers were also found to attach more value to westernsounding brands, perhaps associating them with quality, high price and exclusivity. Shenzhen and Hong Kong women felt that it was relatively

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important to be able to pronounce a western brand name easily, and it is therefore recommended that short brand names be incorporated into advertising strategy (two-syllable brand names may be preferred, see Chan & Huang 1997). In addition to ensuring that western-sounding product brand names are easily translated/pronounceable, and therefore more appealing to the target audience, attention must also be given to below-the-line communication strategies required to support product sales. The notion of relationship building (guanxi) and trust that typifies personal selling in Chinese markets could be strengthened by ensuring that beauty experts provide effective consultation, and supply further information when promoting the products in store and over the counter. Free product trials and samples would probably help global brands obtain a foothold in these cosmetics markets. Likewise, the effectiveness of positive word of mouth and the tendency to reciprocate gifts for families and friends present further opportunities for well-packaged and well-designed cosmetics products. Although a large number of respondents held neutral views with regard to their preference for western or eastern music, overall the former was favoured among both groups of respondents. Companies are therefore recommended to maintain a consistent global image and continue with western music. Due to a convergent trend in music worldwide, countries such as China are increasingly exposed to and receptive to western musical styles. Moreover, western music would have particular appeal to the younger profile of cosmetics consumers in both Hong Kong and Shenzhen who aspire to be perceived as modern and fashionable. Shenzhen respondents indicate a preference for seeing eastern, rather than western, models in cosmetics advertisements. However, exposure to western influence and concepts, particularly among women in Hong Kong, is perhaps a reason why a large number prefer to see western models, or hold neutral views. Hong Kong respondents therefore tended to have a lower degree of eastern preference regarding the model’s country of origin, compared with Shenzhen women. This could be related to their longer and greater exposure to both western advertising messages and the many different cultures that typify Hong Kong’s cosmopolitan city. This finding is incongruous with research undertaken by Zhou and Belk (2004); these researchers discovered that western models were perceived by Chinese consumers as being more attractive in cosmetics commercials, and this

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was particularly evident for status-driven western brands. International cosmetics suppliers would be wise to take note of these statistics. Influenced by Hong Kong’s popular culture, most women sampled in both cities favour the use of celebrities in cosmetics advertisements. This result may help to justify why a high percentage of celebrities tend to appear in TV commercials in Hong Kong. Advertisers often make a concerted effort to select credible and attractive celebrities, who are well suited to particular products and the characteristics of the target audience (Miciak & Shanklin 1994). With the majority of Shenzhen and Hong Kong respondents considering celebrities to be their most important type of reference group, cosmetics companies should consider employing wellknown and popular celebrities who can transmit their advertising messages and create the desired affinity with the brands. Models also represent a good option, particularly in Shenzhen, as their attractiveness constitutes a reference group to which the audience can aspire (Kenrick & Gutierres 1980; Kenrick et al. 1989). The maturity and sophistication of the Hong Kong market, and the fact that Shenzhen women are increasingly opting for a more rational modern lifestyle, explains why the sample from these two cities (particularly Hong Kong) are willing to seek advice from cosmetics experts or specialists. Evidence also suggests that respondents are receptive to advice about skin care, which should be noted by cosmetics suppliers when targeting women from these two cities. While Hong Kong respondents preferred an ideal-looking and sophisticated model to be featured in cosmetics advertisements – which probably reflects interest in their own appearance – a sophisticated image and outgoing persona were highly appreciated among Shenzhen women. This may reflect rapid urban developments in Hong Kong over the last 20 years, the recent economic trajectory in Shenzhen, and the relatively high level of education associated with women in these two cities. A sophisticated appeal represents an attainable symbol to which both groups can aspire. Independence was a further aspect of image that was perceived to be important among the two groups, and is often associated with countries that have high ‘individualism’ – where people are expected to take care of themselves (Albers-Miller & Gelb 1996). The increasing pressure to earn a living and obtain a position in Hong Kong society has meant that many women are familiar with and value their independence. Similarly in

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Shenzhen, the young female generation is becoming less influenced by traditional Chinese values and associated collectivism, in preference for more individualism and greater independence. Furthermore, the prevalence of a growing feminist revolution in these two cities signals the need for a new independent image for women that international advertisers should recognise. Product information, packaging and design play a crucial role in cosmetics advertising for consumers in both cities. It appears that both groups of consumers prefer to be educated about the merits of different brands, and wish to reduce any perceived purchase risk. Product information typifies the nature of cosmetics products, and satisfies consumers’ concerns for health and beauty. Information should be provided regarding the product’s benefits and how consumers should contact the company for further product literature. Advertisements can also highlight any positive results associated with such products, provide information regarding the correct usage to obtain optimum results – as well as the main ingredients, hypoallergenic attributes and any other added benefits. Consumers may be directed to online and direct marketing channels, where they can easily obtain further product information. The research findings raise some important issues that may have broader implications in the future. What is evident since Hong Kong’s handover to China in 1997 is that the city has experienced significantly greater collaboration with the mainland. As an increasing number of workers from Hong Kong are now employed in, and are commuting to and from China, and similarly more mainland Chinese are visiting Hong Kong for business and leisure, this appears to have facilitated greater cultural convergence. Specifically – and something that probably relates to the growth in consumer power and individualism on the mainland – Chinese women are set to continue their quest for high-quality merchandise and western designer brands. Original brand names and western models will therefore continue to go hand-in-hand in appealing to Chinese women. The adoption and, importantly, the effective management of famous and popular celebrities, with the support of eye-catching product information, are therefore likely to become the subject of more practitioner and academic discourse in years to come.

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Conclusion This study has highlighted that the cosmetics markets for Hong Kong and Shenzhen are prima facie similar in terms of how products should be advertised, yet further cross-comparison has revealed that subtle differences do exist despite the close proximity of the two cities. Our findings indicate that there is an overwhelming influence from the West in terms of how cosmetics may appeal to Chinese consumers. Despite their tendencies to retain some of their traditional cultural values, women in Hong Kong and Shenzhen have achieved a good degree of financial independence, allowing them to make important decisions about particular brand preferences. Women from both cities, by and large, aspire to western-branded cosmetics, ads that feature western music, and formats with western image appeals – as they afford more status and modernity. However, this study has also revealed that the continued allure of Chinese-looking models and celebrities needs to be considered, particularly for the Shenzhen market. Although advertising preferences between the two cities remain relatively similar, the cosmetics markets are not identical. Our findings reveal that contrasting degrees of importance are attached to different elements when targeting cosmetics consumers. Although, to some degree, a standardised advertising theme could be adopted, some adaptation would also be required in terms of media focus, advertising appeal and model selection. In Hong Kong, cosmetics advertisements are more effective when magazines are used as the primary media, preferably featuring an ideal-looking model and detailed product information. In Shenzhen, cosmetics advertising should focus principally on TV campaigns that feature sophisticated models. Where Chinese models are used, a clear message about how the brand may achieve the desired results for Chinese consumers is essential. If western models are featured, consideration needs to be given to illustrate how the cosmetics may enhance the features of oriental women, as such ads must reflect what is important to a particular society at a certain point in time. What is deemed ‘fashionable’ in the West may not be applicable in Hong Kong and Shenzhen. For example, the western notions of a ‘modern woman’ would not necessarily encompass materialism but self-fulfilment, whereas in Hong Kong, materialism would go hand in hand with the notion of a ‘modern woman’.

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This study has highlighted that the adaptation of a global brand must be handled sensitively to ensure that cosmetics consumers can make informed choices about western products in Hong Kong and Shenzhen. The markets here require an appropriate level of product support for consumers, and for advertising appeals to be sympathetic to the aspirations of the modern Chinese woman. Successful cosmetics advertising campaigns must account for the genre convention, and feature ideal-looking and sophisticated models or celebrities, so that consumers may have a tangible outcome with which they can identify. Advertisements need to reflect the rapid societal changes and increasing sophistication of the respective cosmetics markets, as well as account for the subtle differences and challenges of communicating with these target consumers. The authors acknowledge that this research is limited to a relatively small sample of female consumers in both Hong Kong and Shenzhen (in view of the large population and demographic profiles associated with these major cities). As a result, some caution should be exercised in light of the findings and recommendations provided. The study could also be expanded in other major cities of China, such as Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou, to help develop effective national advertising campaigns. From an academic perspective, obtaining additional data from Chinese cosmetics consumers in Taiwan, Singapore and Malaysia would also help to draw comparisons between different nations with Chinese inhabitants. Such information could prove fruitful for helping international cosmetics suppliers develop pan-regional advertising, and may add to the existing body of literature on international advertising.

Appendix: Description of scaled items used in the instrument Media 1. To what extent do these sources influence your purchase of cosmetics? (TV, Radio, Magazines, Newspapers, Outdoor advertising: each scaled 1 – unimportant, to 5 – v. important).

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Standardisation/localisation 2. How do the following factors influence your purchase of cosmetics? (Ability to pronounce the translated brand name in Chinese, the importance attached to the meaning of the translated brand/product name, the ability to pronounce the western brand/product name: each scaled 1 – unimportant, to 5 – v. important). 3. When the brand name or product has been translated into Chinese, in general what is your preference? (Scaled 1 – strong preference for original brand, to 5 – strong preference for translated brand). 4. Concerning the music in advertisements, please indicate your preference: (Scaled 1 – strong preference for western, 5 – strong preference for eastern). 5. Concerning the type of model(s) used in cosmetics advertisements, please indicate your preference: (Scaled 1 – strong preference for western, 5 – strong preference for eastern). People of influence/reference groups 6. To what extent do these types of people that appear in cosmetics advertisements influence your purchase of cosmetics products? (Celebrities, Cosmetic experts/specialists, Everyday people, Models: Each scaled 1 – unimportant, to 5 – v. important). 7. To what extent do you like/dislike the following characteristics associated with female models in cosmetics advertisements? (Fashionable, Sophisticated, Independent, Sexy, Carefree, Outgoing/lively, Ideallooking: Scaled 1 – Strongly dislike, to 5 – Strongly like). Product information 8. To what extent do you feel that the availability of product information is important/unimportant in cosmetics advertisements? (Scaled 1 – unimportant, to 5 – v. important).

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Acknowledgements The authors would like to thank Ying Huang, Lai Nga Chi, Kwan Ka Wai and Kwan Nga Yu for their help in the data collection process.


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About the authors Bradley R. Barnes is Professor of International Management, University of Kent. Noel Y.M. Siu is Associate Professor, Department of Marketing, Hong Kong Baptist University. Qionglei Yu is Lecturer, Zhejiang Gongshang University. Sally S.Y. Chan is Senior Teaching Fellow in Marketing, Leeds University Business School. Address correspondence to: Dr Bradley R. Barnes, University of Kent, Kent Business School, Canterbury CT2 7PE, United Kingdom. Email: [email protected]

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