Food Practices in Transition

Routledge Studies in Sustainability Transitions SERIES EDITORS: JOHAN SCHOT, JOHN GRIN AND JAN ROTMANS

1 Transitions to Sustainable Development New Directions in the Study of Long Term Transformative Change John Grin, Jan Rotmans and Johan Schot In collaboration with Frank Geels and Derk Loorbach

Food Practices in Transition Changing Food Consumption, Retail and Production in the Age of Reflexive Modernity

Edited by Gert Spaargaren, Peter Oosterveer and Anne Loeber

2 Automobility in Transition? A Socio- Technical Analysis of Sustainable Transport Edited by Frank W Geels, Rem! Kemp, GeoffDudley and Glenn Lyons

3 Food Practices in Transition Changing Food Consumption, Retail and Production in the Age of Reflexive Modernity Edited by Gert Spaargaren, Peter Oosterveer and Anne Loeber

i~ ~~o~;!;n~~~up

NEW YORK LONDON

First published 2012 by Routledge 711 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017 Simultaneously published in the UK by Routledge 2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4RN

Rout/edge is an imprint ojthe Taylor & Francis Group, an informa business © 2012 Taylor & Francis

The right of the editors to be identified as the authors of the editorial material, and of the authors for their individual chapters, has been asserted in accordance with sections 77 and 78 of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. Typeset in Sabon by IBT Global.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers. Trademark Notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation without intent to infringe.

Library ofCongress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Food practices in transition: changing food consumption, retail and production in the age of reflexive modernity I edited by Gert Spaargaren, Peter Oosterveer, Anne Loeber. p. cm. - (Routledge studies in sustainability transitions; 3) Includes bibliographical references and index. 1. Food industry and trade. 2. Food industry and tradeEnvironmental aspects. 3. Food consumption. 4. Agricultural ecology. 1. Spaargaren, Gert. Il. Oosterveer, Peter. Ill. Loeber, Anne. HD9000.5.F59622011 338.1-dc23 2011031178 ISBN13: 978-0-415-88084-8 (hbk) ISBN13: 978-0-203-13592-1 (ebk)

To Ken Green

Contents

List of Figures List of Tables List of Acronyms and Abbreviations Preface 1

Sustainability Transitions in Food Consumption, Retail and Production

Xl

xiii xv XVll

1

GERT SPAARGAREN, PETER OOSTERVEER AND ANNE LOEBER

PART I Transitions In Consumer Practices 2

Changing Governments, Kitchens, Supermarkets, Firms and Farms: The Governance of Transitions Between Societal Practices and Supply Systems

35

jOHNGRIN

3

Healthy, Safe and Sustainable: Consumers and the Public Debate on Food in Europe and the Netherlands Since 1945

60

ANN EKE H. VAN OTTERLOO

4

Beyond the Industrial Paradigm? Consumers and Trust in Food

86

UNNI KjAen-and-egg dilemma: that the regime will only allow and nurture radical niche experiments if they are perceived to fit in a plausible future, yet the plausibility of this future is largely dependent on the perceived feasibility of radically new practices. By design we can escape this dilemma. Thus, designs may actually precede and facilitate the generation of a more common agenda on the strategic level. At least in the sector of animal husbandry, this opens up a route with a higher chance of success, given the relatively large number of independent entrepreneurs that cannot possibly become involved in a process of shared agenda-setting also given the heterogeneity of the challenges ahead.

NOTES 1. This chapter was funded by the Dutch Ministry of Agriculture Nature and Food Quality (LNV) as part of the KB7 program Transitieken~is en -kunde (KB-07-008-001), and the Knowledge Network on System Innovations (KSI). The authors wish to thank the other authors in this book for fruitful

254

2. 3. 4.

5. 6.

7.

8. 9.

A. P. (Bram) Bos et al. discussions, and the editors for their valuable suggestions to ameliorate the final draft of this chapter. By 2010, the Ministry of LNV became part of a newly formed Ministry of Economic Affairs, Agriculture and Innovation (ELl). This is done to prevent the meat from attaining a specific boar taint, which consumers don't like. Roep et al. (2003: 205-210) showed how this was done by the Dutch agricultural cooperatives Vel & Vanla, which effectively reformed structuring features of their environment (like governmental regulation) in order to apply and broaden their specific and novel practices towards land and mineral management. See also the chapter by Roep and Wiskerke in this volume. Originally 'Diergericht Keten Ontu/erp' in Dutch. The Dutch name for the project was 'Houden van Hennen', This Dutch title used the verb 'houden van' because it refers both to 'loving' and 'keeping/farming'. In the original English brochure of the project, the name was translated as 'Laying hen Husbandry', which we will use hereafter for reasons of readability. A third pilot project initiated in 2005 and 2006 by four farmers, who wanted to develop a system according to the Roundel principles while marketing the products together, came to a premature end. The failure was rooted in the numerous hurdles with local regulation and in the repeated refusals from the side of national innovation funds. More information can be found at http://www.rondeel.org/. (access date 22 September 2011) For an extensive discussion on the key elements of the RIO approach and its embedding in the innovation literature, we refer to Bos et al. (2009).

REFERENCES Anonymous. (2001) 'Scientists' assessment of the impact of housing and management on animal welfare', Journal of Applied Animal Welfare Science, 4: 3-52. Berkhout, F., Smith, A. and Stirling, A. (2004) 'Socio-technical regimes and transition contexts', in B. E. Elzen, F. W. Geels and K. Green (eds) System innovation and the transition to sustain.ability: Theory, evidence and policy, Cheltenham, UK: Edward Elgar. Bieleman, J. (2000) 'Landbouw', in J. W. Schot (ed) Techniek in Nederland in de tu/intigste eeuu/, Ill: Landbouui & Voeding, Zutphen: Walburg Pers. Bos, A. P. (2008) 'Instrumentalization theory and reflexive design in animal husbandry', Social Epistemology, 22: 29-50. Bos, A. P. (Bram) and Groot Koerkamp, Peter W. G. (2009) 'Synthesizing needs in system innovation through methodical design: A methodical outline on the role of needs in Reflexive Interactive Design (RIO)', in K. J. Poppe, C. Termeer and M. Slingerland (eds) Transitions towards sustainable agriculture, food chains and pert-urban areas, Wageningen: Wageningen Academic Publishers. Bos, A. P. (Bram), Groot Koerkamp, P. W. G., Gosselink, J. M. J. and Bokma, S. J. (2009) 'Reflexive Interactive Design and its application in a project on sustainable dairy husbandry systems', Outlook on Agriculture, 38 (2): 137-145. de Greef, K. H., Stafleu, F. R. and de Lauwere, C. C. (2006) 'A simple valuedistinction approach aids transparency in farm animal welfare debate', Journal of Agricultural and Environmental Ethics, 19: 57-66. de Greef, K. H, Vermeer, H M., Houwers, H W. J. and Bos, A. P. (Bram) (2011). 'Proof of Principle of the Comfort Class concept in pigs. Experimenting in the midst of a stake holder process on pig welfare' Livestock Science, 139 (112): 172-185.

Reflexive Design for Sustainable Animal Husbandry

255

Dierenbescherming. (2003) 'Dierenbescherming en LTO bedenken nieuwe varkensstal', http://www.dierenbescherming.nllnieuws/514. Access date 22 September 2011 European Commission. (2008) Communication from the Commission to the European P~r1iament and the Council on the various systems of rearing laying hens, m particular those covered by Directive 1999/74/EC. Europ.ean Union, ~. ,0. T. (1999) Council Directive 1999/74/EC of 19 July 1999, laying dowr: mirumum standards for the protection of laying hens, Luxembourg: Official Journal of the European Communities. Geels, F. ~. (2002) Understanding t le dynamics of technological transitions: A eoeuolutionary and socio-techniral analysis, Enschede: Twente University Press. Geels, ~. W. (2005a). 'The dynami~s. of transitions in socio-technical systems: A multl-Iev~l analysis of the transrnon pathway from horse-drawn carriages to automobiles (1860-1930)', Technology Analysis & Strategic Management 17: 445-476. ' Geels, F. W. (2005b) Technological transitions and system innovations: A co-euolutionary and socio-technical analysis (Doctoral dissertation, Rev. ed.), Cheltenham, UK and Northampton, MA: Edward Elgar. (Original work published 2002) Geels, ~. W. (2006) ~Major system change through stepwise reconfiguration: A multi-level analysis of the transformation of American factory production (1850-1930)', Techn,'logy in Society, 28: 445-476. Geels, F. W. (2007) "Tra.isformations of large technical systems: A multilevel analysis of the Dutch highway system (1950-2000)', Science, Technology & Human Values, 32: 123-149. Geels, F. W. and Schot, J. W. (2007) 'Typology of sociotechnical transition pathways', Research Policy, 36: 399-417. Geels, F. W. and Schot, J. W. (2010) 'The dynamics of transitions: A socio-technical perspective', in J. Grin, J. Rotmans and J. W. Schot (eds) Transitions to sustainable development: New directions in the study of long term transformative change, New York: Routledge. Grin,). (2010) 'Understanding transitions from a governance perspective', in J. Gnn, J., Rotman~ and J. W. Schot (eds) Transitions to sustainable development: New directions m the study of long term transformatiue change, New York: . Routledge. Groenestein, C. M. K., Schouten, W. G. P., de Greef, K. H., Ten Hoope, R. G. and de jong, M. (2003) Diergericht ontwerpen: Methodisch in plaats van intuitie] naar een ontwerf uoor een dieruriendeliik bouderiisysteem (IMAG-2003-06), Lelystad, WagenIngen and Den Haag: Wageningen UR. Groot Koe~kamp, P. W. G. a.nd Bos, A. P. (2008) 'Designing complex and sustainable agncultural production systems: An integrated and reflexive approach for the case.of ta?le egg production in the Netherlands', NJAS, Wageningen Journal of Life SCiences, 55: 113-138. Hekkerr, M. and Ossebaard, M. (2010) De innouatiemotor, Assen, Netherlands: Royal Van Gorcum. Hoijtink, J. (2004) Van geitenu/oilen sokken naar design jeans, Amsterdam: Kluwer. Ho~den van Hennen, P. T. (2004) Laying hen husbandry: Towards a happy hen lite, proud farmers and a satisfied society, Wageningen and Lelystad: Wageningen UR. Houden van Hennen, ~. T. (2005) Programme of demands: Based on the needs of poultry farmer, laying hen and citizen, Wageningen: Wageningen UR. Kemp, R., Schot, J.W. al1;d Hoogma? R. (1998) 'Regime shifts to sustainability through processes of niche formation: the approach of strategic niche management', Technology Analysis & Strategic Management, 10: 175-195

256

A. P. (Bram) Bos et al.

Klerkx, L., Aarts, N. and Leeuwis, C. (2010a) 'Adaptive management in agricultural innovation systems: The interactions between innovation networks and their environment', Agricultural Systems, 103: 390-400. Klerkx, L., Aarts, N. and Leeuwis, C. (2010b) 'Dealing with incumbent regimes: Deliberateness and serendipity of innovation agency', in 9th European IFSA Symposium, Vienna: Austria. Koch G. and Elbers, A. R. W. (2006) 'Outdoor ranging of poultry: A major risk factor for the introduction and development of High-Pathogenicity Avian Influenza', NjAS, Wageningen journal of Life Sciences, 54: 179-194. Loorbach, D. (2007) Transition Management: New mode of governance for sustainable development, Utrecht: International Books. Ministerie van LNY. (2005) Slotverklaring van de vervolgbijeenkomst toekomst intensieve veehouderij op 19 januari 2005 te Baarn, Ministerie van LNY. Rip, A. and Kemp, R. (1998) 'Technological change', in S. Rayner and E. L. Malone (eds) Human choice and climate change, Washington, DC: Batelle Press. Roep, D., van der Ploeg, J. D. and Wiskerke, J. S. C. H. (2003) 'Managing technical-institutional design processes: Some strategic lessons from environmental co-operatives in the Netherlands', NjAS, Wageningen journal of Life Sciences, 51: 195-217. Rotmans, J. (2003) Transitiemanagement: Sleutel voor een duurzame samenleuing, Assen, Netherlands: Royal Van Gorcum. Rotmans, J. (2005) Social innovation: Between dream and reality lies complexity, Rotterdam: ERIM, Erasmus Research Institute of Management. Rotmans, J. and Loorbach, D. (2007) 'Transition Management: Reflexive steering of societal complexity through searching, learning and experimenting', in J. van den Bergh and F. R. Bruinsma (eds) The transition to renewable energy: Theory and practice, Cheltenham, UK: Edward Elgar. Schot, J. W. (1998) 'The usefulness of evolutionary models for explaining innovation: The case of the Netherlands in the 19th century', History and Technology, 14: 173-200. Schouten, W. P. G. and Groenestein, C. M. K. (2003) Diergericht ontwerpen: Behoeften van vleesvarkens (IMAG-2003-05), Lelystad, Wageningen and Den Haag: Wageningen UR. Siers, F. J. (2004) Methodisch onturerpen volgens H.H. van den Kroonenberg, Amsterdam: Wolters-Noordhoff. Smith, A. (2007) 'Translating sustainabilities between green niches and socio-technical regimes', Technology Analysis and Strategic Management, 19: 427-450. Verburg, G. (2008) Toekomstvisie op de veehouderij: Brief aan de Tweede Kamer d.d. 16-01-2008, Ministerie van LNV. VofS, J.-P. and Kemp, R. (2005) Reflexive governance: Learning to cope with fundamentallimitations in steering sustainable development, Manuscript submitted to FUTURES, 16th Dec. 2005. Vos, M. and van der Ham, B. (2004) Toekomst van de intensieve veehouderij: Motie inzake actieve stimulering van initiatieven als Comfort Class, Tweede Kamer der Staten Generaal. https:/Izoek.officielebekendmakingen.nl/kst28973-5.html (access date 22 September 2011) Welzwijn/CC. (2003) Welzwijn in de toekomst, over varkenswensen voor uarkensstallen, Wageningen and Lelystad: Wageningen UR. Wijffels, D. (2001) Toekomst voor de veehouderij: Agenda voor een herontwerp van de sector. Denkgroep onder leiding van de heer H.H.F. Wijffels, Den Haag: Ministerie van LNV.

11 Out of the Factory and Into the Fish Pond Can Certification Transform Vietnamese Pangasius? Simon R. Bush and Ben Belton

INTRODUCTION This chapter examines pangasius catfish aquaculture in Vietnam in the context of changing social relations of production, European consumer trends and regulation. In particular we are interested in how the rise of 'sociotechnical' environmental regulatory networks in the form of quality standards and third-party certification have altered power relations between consumers and producers across global space (Mol 2002; Spaargaren and Mol 2008). We contend that the success of pangasius illustrates the 'double-edged' nature of globalization, and in doing so exposes the wider challenges of, sustainability transitions. This success is evident in the average annu.vl growth in production of 30 per cent per year over the last decade, which has been driven largely by the expansion into European white fish retail markets. However, penetrating these markets has subjected the fish to ever greater regulation, as civil society and industry actors have turned their attention toward food safety and sustainability. Our aim is to examine how the widely perceived transition to 'sustainable' pangasius aquaculture has been constituted by changing relations of consumption and production. We address this through a 'both ends' approach to the global pangasius chain by examining conflicting societal interests around sustainable pangasius in Europe and their influence over global regulatory networks such as quality standards and certification, and how these standards are then translated into practice by processors and producers in Vietnam. By linking the social and economic realities of multiple actors along the global chain, we open up some of the ethical challenges of working with sustainability standards and certification (Bingen & Busch 2007). More specifically, we critically reflect on the double-bind producers face when selling to a globally operating, retail-led system that is driving value addition through 'quality', while locally sourcing on the lowest prices and renegotiating provisioning arrangements strongly in their own favor (Morgan et al. 2006).