from hot, dry lands comes rich, precious frankincense oil earthy ...

summer edition 2014

from hot, dry lands comes rich, precious frankincense oil earthy, woody, fabulous patchouli oil specific gravity; the weight of the matter

this issue

summer summer edition 2014

Summer comes with bright sunshine and warm rays, it offers us longer days and treasured time with family and friends. It is definitely my favourite season and I hope you are looking forward to the end of year celebrations as much as I am. But before we say goodbye to 2014 there is one final Oily to enjoy. In this issue we highlight the fantastic achievements of One Health Organisation in Myanmar, read page 20, to find out more. Plus we travel to other exotic locations with Harvest in Somalia where rich Certified Organic Frankincense oil is produced in the harsh, dry climate. And in Up Close we learn about Patchouli oil and its South East Asian origins. A truly international issue is ready for you to start reading, so just turn the page … Lucille Wilson, Editor

Summer cover: Beeswax Beeswax The by-product of honey production, Beeswax is a popular cosmetic ingredient as it offers protective and humectants properties. It can help soothe and soften the effects of dry skin and is perfect in balms, creams or rich body butters. Available in Certified Organic (solid), Natural (pellets) or Refined (pellets) and in a fragrant Absolute that is ideal for perfumery. Visit www.seoc.com.au for more information.

04 Harvest: Certified Organic Frankincense From SEOC’s eco-friendly distribution partner, Lubanchem Ltd. 12 SME Forum: Understanding Specific Gravity and why it is important in cosmetic manufacturing 16 Up Close: SEOC’s Patchouli oil range Everything you need to know about these earthy, woody, fabulous oils 20 News: One Health Organisation International health care project update 22 Product Specification: Frankincense Olibanum oil (Somalia) – Certified Organic Specification for manufacturers 23 Formulation: Rejuvenating Face Serum Featuring Frankincense oil (Somalia) – Certified Organic

harvest

Certified Organic Frankincense Olibanum … a rich warm aroma with an ancient history

The Frankincense Tree is a hardy plant that can withstand soaring temperatures and dry conditions. Trees grow wild and are not harvested until they reach at least seven years old to ensure they are mature enough to produce quality sap resin. 4

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harvest

In the North Eastern corner of the African continent, Frankincense trees are scattered across the harsh, dry land. From Puntland and Somaliland in Somalia, across the Ogaden Region of Ethiopia and up into Eritrea, the Boswellia carterii species has been able to withstand the challenging climatic conditions for thousands of years. Certified Organic Frankincense Olibanum oil is produced by Sydney Essential Oil Co.’s supply partner, Lubanchem Ltd. Its warm, slightly spicy aroma is unequalled in its quality. It holds an important position in our portfolio, due to it being an excellent product for cosmetic, aromatherapy and perfumery applications.

Frankincense throughout History

For over 5,000 years, Frankincense has been traded from Northern Africa across the Middle East and around the globe. Ancient Assyrians and Babylonians are believed to have used it in religious ceremonies whilst Ancient Egyptians sought the resin for perfumes, incense and for treating skin conditions. It was also a key ingredient in their mummification process, for which they are so famous. There are many biblical references to Frankincense and it is a traditional incense commonly used by many Christian churches especially Orthodox and Catholic denominations. Its prominence in the story of the baby Jesus maintains a deeply spiritual connection to many different faiths. In its native continent, Africa, Frankincense is utilised as a traditional medicine to alleviate digestive complaints and to support skin health. Whilst in India, it is employed in Ayurverdic treatments for wound healing, and even reducing arthritic symptoms. Today, Frankincense continues to have a strong relationship with the church and the Vatican is one of the largest global buyers for Somali producers. > 6

A tapped Frankincense tree will slowly secrete sap which hardens and forms a resin. This solid sap is manually harvested in a three weekly cycle to allow optimal resin buildup. 7

harvest

The oil is a precious commodity that is also undergoing many research studies for potential medical applications, as the constituents offer exciting possibilities.

Wild Growth in an Unforgiving Environment

Approximately 100 kilograms of raw material is required to produce 1 kilogram of Frankincense essential oil. Clockwise from top: Resin is graded by colour as the different hues indicate the quality. Darker resin is a lower grade. Frankincense oil is steam distilled from the resin and is tested to ensure the highest quality is achieved. Family clans only harvest within their inherited land areas. The villagers sort and clean the resin in preparation for sale. Hand harvesting of Frankincense resin takes place from September to December. 8

The semi-arid state of Puntland in Somalia, experiences average daily temperatures in the mid 30˚C’s with little annual rainfall. It can have long periods of drought and during July through to September the temperatures regularly reach 40˚C. The difficult conditions make it hard to imagine how any plant could survive, but the Boswellia carterii tree is a resilient species that has made a home amongst the Somali hills. Preferring steep slopes of limestone soil, the Frankincense tree thrives in the hot climate and grows wild throughout the region. There is no identifiable farm infrastructure and the Frankincense is wild harvested by family clans that retain traditional collection rights. In Somalia, specific land areas have been handed down through generations and this determines where each clan can harvest. These areas and the trees they contain are inherited by the men in the family and are sustainably maintained as an important source of income. Harvest takes places from September through to December and during this time the men will leave the village to spend months in the hills. The trees are methodically tapped and as the sap flows from the resulting hole, it solidifies on the trunk. This solid sap resin is collected by hand on a three weekly cycle ensuring the trees are not over harvested. Once harvesting is completed, the women in the village clean and sort the resin into grades. Many factors impact the grade of the resin such as health and age of the tree, geographical location and time of harvest, but all grades are sold into different industries so there is zero wastage. > 9

harvest

Lubanchem Ltd. has a long standing relationship with many of the Frankincense collectors and they are deeply committed to supporting the industry well into the future. Certified Organic through Ceres, the company produces organic essential oil via steam distillation of the graded resin. Approximately 100 kilograms of raw material is required to produce 1 kilogram of essential oil.

Certified Organic Frankincense Essential Oil

The haunting aroma of Frankincense has the ability to connect on a spiritual level for many of its users. With warm, spicy, slighty balsamic notes, it has a truly distinctive scent profile that resonates in essential oil blends and perfumes. As it helps to regulate breathing patterns, it offers a calming effect on the mind and body and is the perfect accompaniment to a meditation session. It is an ideal choice for people who suffer from nervous or anxious tendencies as it comforts the soul with a peaceful mood. Aromatherapuetically, Frankincense is renowned for supporting the respiratory system. It can help clear the lungs and alleviate coughs, whilst also soothing inflammatory mucous conditions. For women, it is a useful uterine tonic and can even assist new mothers through bouts of post-baby blues. When incorporated in skincare products, the oil imparts a rejuvenating quality and can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is a celebrated anti-ageing ingredient making it great for serums, creams and target area treatments. Its astringent effect is also helpful for oily skin complexions and it can even minimise breakouts and redness. 1 Why not introduce Certified Organic Frankincense Olibanum oil to your collection today? For a bulk quote or more information contact our sales team on 02 9565 2828 or [email protected]. 10

Keep your youthful complexion by incorporating Frankincense essential oil into serums, creams and specialised treatments. You will be impressed with its rejuvenating qualities.

sme forum

Weighing up the facts … how specific gravity can impact your cosmetic manufacturing. Accurate measurement of ingredients is essential when striving to manufacture consistent products batch after batch. To ensure your formulations are correctly calculated it is best to use the most common method of measurement which is by weight. It is not recommended to combine measurements of weight and volume in the same formulation, as this can become particularly problematic when scaling batch size up or down, and also when combining liquid and solid ingredients. Liquid ingredients can be purchased by either weight or volume depending on the pack size and/or your supplier. It is therefore ideal to have an understanding of how liquids can be converted for calculation purposes into your formulation, and this is where the Specific Gravity value of each ingredient becomes important.

So what is Specific Gravity?

It is defined as the relative density of a liquid or solid when compared to water, or the density of a gas in relation to air. The figure itself is not measured by units, it is simply reported as a value and it is this value that can help you calculate a standard unit of measure across all ingredients. > Every essential oil and carrier oil has a different specific gravity value, and this value can change from batch to batch. It is important to always check the Certificate of Analysis we supply with your order for the most up to date information. 12

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sme forum

In our temperature controlled laboratory, we measure and report these values on our Certificates of Analysis so you have them at hand with every essential oil, carrier oil or other liquid ingredients you purchase.

Mass vs. Volume

Let us help you understand more by taking you back to basics for a moment. In simple terms, ‘Mass’ is the amount of matter held in a substance and this is determined by measuring the substance’s weight. This measure is presented in grams (g) and kilograms (kg) and is most accurately determined by using scales. For commercial manufacturing purposes, it is best practice to use Certified scales that are serviced regularly to ensure the calibration remains precise. Whereas, ‘Volume’ is a measurement of the space a substance occupies within a container. This is measured in millilitres (mL) and litres (L). The space defines the amount of liquid measured into the container, and most packaging is designed to leave some extra space to allow for the liquid to expand if exposed to heat. This particular measurement is very commonly used across many different industries in both wholesale and retail trade. Various types of ingredients have differing measurement requirements. For example, the Australian National Trade Measurement Regulations specify the permissible unit of measure for vegetable oils (carrier oils) must be measured in volume (mL/L) if the pack size is less than 5L. But if the quantity is over 5L, then either volume or mass are allowable. Sydney Essential Oil Co. chooses to sell its carrier oils in volumetric sizes for small packs up to 5L and anything greater is packaged by mass. It must be recognised that some ingredients that are classified as liquids are unable to have specific gravity tested due to their density and viscosity. These ingredients are often too thick to measure in volume and are therefore automatically supplied in grams and kilograms, for example glycerine. 14

Specific Gravity and Manufacturing

If you are producing small scale batches, it is common to find recipes that list some ingredients by volume, and others by mass. If tried and tested, there is no need to adjust the quantities. However, if you need to up-size your batch, it is worth taking the time to convert everything to weight, to enable better consistency. Alternatively, if your formulations are already presented by weight (gram/kilo) convert any ingredients packaged in millilitres (mL) and litres (L) to ensure you have adequate material. In both cases, use the following Specific Gravity equation: Mass (g) = Volume (mL) x Specific Gravity value For example, the specific gravity value of SEOC’s current Almond Sweet Pure stock is 0.9158. If you were to purchase 500mL of this oil we can calculate the mass in weight. Mass (g) = 500 x 0.9158 Therefore the weight of the 500mL of Almond Sweet Pure is just 457.9g.

To use this theory in reverse, if you are repacking bulk oils into 10mL retail bottles, use this equation to calculate the bulk oil you require to fill the quantity of small packs you need. Volume (mL) = Mass (g) / Specific Gravity For example, with 500g of SEOC’s current Lemongrass oil India you can calculate the volume using its specific gravity value of 0.8952. Volume (mL) = 500 / 0.8952 Therefore the volume of 500g of Lemongrass oil India is 558.53mL, producing 55 x 10mL packs.

Either application of the equation enables you to make an informed decision about the amount of product to purchase in order to achieve your desired outcome. If you have any further questions relating to Specific Gravity calculation please contact us at [email protected]. 1 15

up close

patchouli oil

… earthy, woody, fabulous

Popular in perfuming, cosmetic and aromatherapy

applications.

Patchouli oil comes from the leaves of the perennial herb, Pogostemon cablin. This species originated in the hot, tropical climates of South East Asia and India, and not surprisingly it has a strong history of use within the cultures of these regions. The fresh green, leafy plants have incredibly fragrant leaves, and once rubbed or pressed they release their unmistakable, earthy aroma. The word patchouli, in fact, was originally and fittingly derived from the Hindu words ‘green leaf’. Patchouli oil is known for having one of the ‘deepest’ base notes in aromatherapy, offering a long-lasting and luxurious scent. When blended with other essential oils, it lends itself to producing warm, grounding and somewhat mysterious aromas. Perfuming Patchouli oil is a popular fixative used in perfumes and soaps, and some other traditional applications include it being used to scent linen and clothes. Natural perfumes and essential oil blends featuring Patchouli oil offer a warm, earthy base note. It blends well with many precious oils such as Rose and Neroli, as well as complementing some of the more spicy oils such as Black Pepper, Ginger and Lemongrass.

The heavily scented leaves of the patchouli plant rich in colour and aroma. When crushed, they exude an unmistakable aroma that is loved around the world. 16

Cosmetics Patchouli offers many benefits to the skin when incorporated into skincare and personal care products. Patchouli is ideal > 17

up close

for cooling inflamed skin conditions and will help with many common ailments such as cracked skin, breakouts and scalp irritations. It is a popular inclusion in deodorants due to it deodorising action and usefulness is reducing perspiration. Aromatherapy / Holistic applications Aromatherapeutically, Patchouli oil offers a deeply grounding and supportive action on ones emotional wellbeing and psychological state. It can balance the spirit and help people find their cerebral centre. When used in meditation it may assist in reconnecting the mind to the physical body, whilst also encouraging problem solving thought processes. Incorporating Patchouli into a massage treatment can help those suffering from fluid retention. It is also an effective insect repellent and can help fend off mosquitoes, ants and even moths when used in body products or vaporised in the environment. SEOC’s Patchouli collection SEOC offers five Patchouli oils in a variety of grades, with something to suit every application and budget. 1. Patchouli oil Certified Organic is sourced from various countries including Sri Lanka, India and Papua New Guinea. It is certified through Australian Certified Organic (ACO) and also U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) depending on origin.

2. Patchouli oil Conventional’s origin is Indonesia and it is grown in the rich tropical climates of Sumatera, Java and Sulawesi islands. The leaves are harvested almost all year round with the peak production occurring from November to May. 3. Patchouli oil Iron Free, also from Indonesia, is Conventional oil that has been refined through molecular distillation to remove the minute particles of iron found in the oil. Its colour is slightly paler but the scent remains the same. 4. Patchouli Heart oil, produced by our distribution partner, LMR from France has a distinctive aroma. This is a result of the extra fractional distillation that takes place after the initial steam distillation process, to isolate the heart of the aroma. It offers a unique point of difference when developing a blend. 5. Patchouli oil Blended Natural is a blend of 100% Pure Patchouli oil and natural constituents, and is an excellent choice when formulation costs are a key consideration. SEOC Quality Guaranteed Our selection of Patchouli oils are all supplied with full quality control documentation, as our in-house laboratory produces batch specific Certificates of Analysis. We guarantee that the product you receive meets our grading criteria. 1

The word patchouli, was originally and fittingly derived from the Hindu words ‘green leaf ’. SEOC Grade* 100% Pure Essential Oil – Certified Organic

PRODUCT

AROMA PROFILE

BENEFITS

1. Patchouli Certified Organic

Full bodied, rich, warm aroma with exotic earthy notes.

Excellent consistency, ideal for all skincare, massage and aromatherapy applications. Perfect in organic formulations.

2. P atchouli (Indonesia)

Warm, earthy aroma with mild spicy notes.

Great for perfumery & blends, ideal for all skincare, massage and aromatherapy applications.

3. P atchouli Iron Free (Indonesia)


Great for perfumery & blends, ideal for all skincare, massage and aromatherapy applications. Slightly paler colour, no iron oxidation.

4. P atchouli Heart

Woody, with a clean camphor top note developing into a slightly smoky earth tone and full apple twist.

Unique, distinctive scent, ideal for perfumery and all skincare and aromatherapy applications.

5. Patchouli BN


Ideal for all skincare and massage applications. Suitable for use as a fixative in perfumery.

100% Pure Essential Oil – Conventional

Essential Oil – Blended Natural

* refer SEOC’s Product Portfolio page 14 for more information on our grades. If you have any questions regarding our oils or you wish to request a quote please contact our sales team at [email protected] or call 02 9565 2828.

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news

One Health Organisation ... dedicated to helping children around the world. One Health Organisation (OHO) and Sydney Essential Oil Co. have enjoyed a strong partnership for many years. Their dedicated professionals volunteer their skills to enrich the lives of those less fortunate. And during this time, we have witnessed many of the incredible results achieved by OHO’s holistic healthcare projects. One of the recent international projects that achieved outstanding results was the collaboration of MyKids Australia with the Andrew Youth Development Centre in Myanmar. The Centre offers a nurturing, stable environment for children displaced by war. Many of whom come from poverty stricken villages, or have been orphaned or abandoned with no family to care for them. OHO coordinated the delivery and implementation of essential oil and massage oil kits directly to the Centre. Carers were taught how to utilise the products in hygiene practices, as well how to provide massage and aromatherapy treatments for many of the children. The outcome of these treatment sessions has been a tremendous success for both the children and staff alike. Htet Ko Shine is one of the children that benefited from the aromatherapy 20

treatments. The 3 year old boy suffered from immune deficiency caused by inadequate nutrition, which meant his body was unable to fight common skin infections. But through the regular topical application of tea tree oil, his once blistered skin is now clear and he is enjoying a healthier, happier life. The emotional wellbeing of more than 100 children living at the Centre has also been supported through specially designed massage oil blends. Many of the children have experienced trauma and acute grief and suffer from stress, anxiety and sleeplessness. The OHO massage oils have offered relief from some of these symptoms and helped the children and carers improve the quality of their lives. It has also been reported that the director of the Andrew Youth Development Centre, Lian Thang, enjoyed some relief from his chronic back pain and headaches thanks to the application of OHO massage oil blends. We hope this improvement enables him to carry on the excellent work achieved by the Centre. 1 The team at SEOC is proud to continue supporting an organisation that truly makes a difference in the world. If you would like to find out more, visit www. onehealthorganisation.org

Left: From sad and unwell to smiling brightly (above), Htet Ko Shine is one of the lucky children helped by OHO’s dedicated team. 21

product specification

formulation

Rejuvenating Face Serum

Performance: deeply moisturising, skin smoothing and soothing oil. Appearance: orange coloured, medium consistency fluid. Aroma: rich, warm aroma with sweet, earthy notes. Stability: expected shelf life 12 months subject to manufacturing practice. Recommended use: daily use facial serum for dry and mature skin types.

Product

Frankincense Olibanum oil (Somalia) – Certified Organic

Botanical Name:

Boswellia carterii

Origin:

Somalia

Appearance:

Clear free flowing liquid

Colour:

Pale straw to light yellow

Odour:

Characteristic

Plant part used:

Gum resins

Extraction method:

Steam distillation

Physio-chemical properties Specific Gravity @ 20°C:

0.8500 – 0.8900

Refractive Index @ 20°C:

1.4600 – 1.4900

Optical rotation:

+10.00º to -25.00º

Flash Point:

≤35°C in closed cup

Oil components

Typical Analysis

a-Thujene

Trace to 18%

a-Pinene

20% to 55%

Camphene

Trace to 5%

b-Pinene

Trace to 6%

b-Myrcene

2% to 10%

d-Limonene

5% to 20%

Viridiflorol

Trace to 5%

Other Information Packaging: As required. Storage: Store in tightly sealed containers in a cool, dry place without direct sunlight or heat. Handling: Well ventilated area and avoid open flame or other sources of ignition. Shelf Life: Three (3) years from date of manufacture (when stored in appropriate conditions).

Phase Raw Material

% w/w

A

Frankincense oil (Somalia) – Certified Organic Orange Sweet oil – Certified Organic Patchouli oil – Certified Organic Rose Otto oil (Bulgaria) – Certified Organic

0.4 0.3 0.1 0.01

B

Camellia oil – Certified Organic Jojoba oil – Certified Organic Argan oil Refined – Certified Organic Plantasens Olive Squalane Rose Hip oil – Certified Organic Pomegranate oil – Certified Organic

46.19 25 9 6 5 5

C Vitamin E natural Seabuckthorn Berries CO2 extract – Certified Organic

2

100% w/w

1

Method of Manufacture 1. Combine ingredients in Phase A and mix well. Allow to synergise for 30 minutes. 2. Combine ingredients in Phase B and mix well. 3. Add Phase A to Phase B and mix well. 4. Add Phase C and mix well. 5. Bottle and leave for 24 hours to allow all ingredients to thoroughly combine prior to use. For ingredients contact Sydney Essential Oil Co. +61 2 9565 2828. Disclaimer Product formulations are included as illustrative examples only. Whilst all care has been taken in presenting example formulations, Sydney Essential Oil Co. accepts no responsibility concerning any product manufactured using such formulations. The responsibility for the performance for marketing claim and adequate testing for stability of any product prior to sale lies with the manufacturer thereof.

For more information contact Sydney Essential Oil Co. +61 2 9565 2828. 22

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Sydney Essential Oil Co. Pty Ltd. ABN 16 600 890 248 11 Burrows Road South, St Peters NSW 2044 Australia PO Box 226 St Peters NSW 2044 T: + 61 2 9565 2828 F: + 61 2 9519 8009 E: [email protected] Order online www.seoc.com.au Office hours: 9am-5pm Monday to Friday © Copyright 2014 Sydney Essential Oil Co. Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopy, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of the publisher. Contact [email protected] with any requests. Oily is printed responsibly by our Forest Stewardship Council® Chain-of-Custody certified printers. They use vegetable-based inks on Elemental Chlorine Free (ECF) pulp paper sourced from sustainable forests. Oily is also available to view online. If you’d prefer to opt-out of receiving a print copy, please let us know.