Mar 14, 2005 - used as mordants. Extractioll of Colorants. The Ocilllllln sanctulll leaves were dried below. 1 10°C for 15 min in laboratory oven and crushed.
I ndian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research Vol. 3 1 , September 2006, pp. 474-476
. Dyeing of polyurethane fibre with Ocil7lu11l sanctum
B H Patel" Department of Textile Chemistry, Faculty or Technology & Enginecring, The M S University of I3aroda, Vadodara 390 00 1 , I ndia
and P B Patel Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Technology & Engineering, M S University of I3aroda, Vadodara 390 00 I , I ndia Received 14 March 2005; revised received alld accepled 3 1 May 2005
Polyurethane tibre has been dyed with a methanolic extract from the leaves of Deilllll/ll 5(///CII/III contai ning ursolic acid as the mnjor colourant with or without various metal lic salts and di fferent mordanting techniques. The i mprovement in depth of colour without altering the tone i s observed. The colour of the samples has been evalunted on computer colotlr match ing system in terms of KIS and L* a* b* colour coordi nates. The dyeings show moderate to good fastness to wash i ng, l ight nnd rubbing.
Keywords: Dyei ng, Metallic salts, Natural dye, Deillllllll S(llIcllllll, Polyurethane fibre IPC Code: lnt. CI. 8 D06P3/24
Polyurethane fibre based on block copolymers was developed and patented by Dupont in 1 950, but i t was in 1 962 that first commercial fibre was marketed as ' Lycra' . The fibre due to its unique segmented structure is difficult to dye. H owever, it can be dyed with several synthetic dyes. A satisfactory medium to heavy shade on polyurethane fibre can be produced by acid or metal complex dyes, but heavy shades need after treatment with tannic acid and tarterematic to i mprove light fastness property of dyed material. 1 ,2 At present the textile i ndustry in many developing countries i s facing a serious i mpact of the famous German ban on 1 1 8 specifi ed azo dyes based on 20 carci nugenic arylamine including benzidine. These banned dyes also i nclude 26 acid dyes and 6 disperse dyes widely used in dyeing of polyurethane fibre. The industry is therefore in need of safe alternati ves. The use of natural dye can be one of the substitutes for many hazardous synthetic dyes, but much work has "To whom all the correspondence should be addressed. E Illni l : kemchhobh @ yahoo.com
not been reported in l iterature in the area of dyeing polyurethane fibre with natural dyes. This paper reports the dyeing of polyurethane fibre using methanolic extract from the leaves of Ocill/.lIl1l sanctum with or w ithout three metal lic salts and three mordanting techniques. The leaves of OCilll/1I1l sanctulIl yield an essential oil, ursolic acid, volatile oil, etc. Figure I shows ursol i c aci d (C 30H4 S0 32, mol wt. 456.7 1 ) , which is the active ingredient present i n about 75% w/w. The leaves also contain eugenol carvacrol, evgenol methylether. The B -ursolic acid (triterpenoid sapogenin) from the ursan group i nh ibits the growth of several strains of Staplzylacllcci. Numerous ursoli c acid containing plants from the L([Jllinaceae family exhibited antibacterial/fungal activity. 3 .6 Polyurethane single filament (denier, 40; di ameter, 70 f.l ), supplied by Bharat Vijay M ills, Ahemedabad, was used for the study. Raw material to extract colburants was OCilllll1ll sallctlllll leaves. Copper sulphate, ferrous sulphate and stannou s chloride were used as mordants.
Extractioll of Colorants The Ocilllllln sanctulll leaves were dried below 1 1 0°C for 1 5 min in laboratory oven and crushed. The leaves ( l O g) were extracted in 1 00 ml of methanol at 50°C for I h in soxhlet apparatus. The content was cooled at room temperature and filtered. Thi s dye solution was used for dyeing. In this dyeing, percentage shade was taken on the weight of fibre. Mardallting with Metallic salts Mordanting of polyurethane fibre with three metallic salts, viz. copper sulphate, ferrous sulphate
h O.CH3 OR
COOH
�
CHz-CH=CH2
R-H Eugenol R = CH). Mehyl b
eugenol
Fig. l --{a) Ursol ic acid -the colour component and (b) Eugenol of Dcillllllll SOlle111/1I
SHORT COMMUNICATION
and stannous chloride, was done by three different mordanting techniques, viz. premordanti ng, meta mordanting and postmordanting. In case of premordanting and postmordanting, lhe undyed or dyed samples were treated with different metallic salts (20/0 owm) at 60°C for 45 min. In the metamordanting process three metallic salts (20/0 owm) were also applied during the dyeing process.
Dyeing with Ocimul1l sanctum Polyurethane fibre was dyed at a material-to-liquor ratio of 1 :40 in open bath dyeing machine. The dyebath containing 1 5 0/0 (owm) concentration of methanolic extract of OcilllUI/l sanctul/l leaves was maintained at pH 4.5 by addition of acetic acid. The temperature was raised to 90°C over 30 m i n and the dyeing continued further Jor 1 h. After treatment The samples were rinsed with water and then treated with 2 giL non-ionic detergent at 80°C for 1 5 min. Finally, the samples were washed thoroughly with water, squeezed and dried. Evaluation of Dyed Samples The dyed samples were assessed for L * a * b * colour coordinates and KIS values (illuminant D65/ 1 0° observer) on spectra scan 5 1 00 (RT) spectrophotometer (premier colorscan i nstrument) The light fastness of the dyed samples was assessed on fad-O-meter after partially exposing the samples to the xenon arc lamp for 1 6 h and graded for the colour change with the ratings. 25
UJ
�
� .... a. Q) "0 ...
� 0
'0 0
20 15 10 5 0
Wi th Co p per Sul p hate 0 With Ferrous Sulphate
o With
•
Stannous Chloride
I
For wash fastness test, composite samples were made for dyed fibres using wool and cotton fibres, twisted with the dyed sample and then assessed for fastness according to ISO - 2 test. Samples were then separated, dried and evaluated for the rating in terms of colour change. Both dry and wet rub fastness tests were carried out using crock meter machi ne. The extract of Oci11luI/l sanctlllll leaves was obtained by methanolic extraction method. The green colour dye obtained from the natural resource was used for dyeing of polyurethane fibre alone as well as i n combi nation with various metallic salts.
Figure 2 shows the KIS values for untreated dyed samples as well as for those treated with copper sulphate, ferrous sulphate and stannous chloride. The KIS values are found to be max i mum for ferrous sulphate treated samples followed by copper sulphate and stannous chloride treated samples ; the lowest value being for untreated sample. Furthermore, it can also be seen that the h igh KIS values are obtained for Table I-Effect of mordants and mordanting techniques on colour characteristics of dyed polyurethane fibre Mordanting technique
Mordant
L*
a*
b*
Unmordanted
Nil
60. 22
- 1 .0 1
23.76
Premordanting
CUS04 FeS04 SnCl 2 CUS04 FeS04 SnCI 2 CUS04 FeS04 SnCI 2
4 1 .43 38.5 1 52 .2 1
- 1 1 .69 -6.04 -4.78
32.52 32. 1 9 36.66
4 1 .70 3 1 .94 45.67
-4.39 - 1 0.33 - 1 1 .7 7
35.49 24.55 3 1 .47
35.79 25.73 52.34
- 1 1 .63 -6.49 -9. 1 2
26.42
Metamordanting
Postmordanting
27.28 37. 1 3
Table 2-Effect o f mordants and mordanting techn iques on fastness properties of dyed polyurethane fibre
i
Without Mordanting
475
Mordanting technique
Pre
Meta
Post
Mordanting Mordanting Mordanting
Light
Fastness to Washing Rubbin1! Wet Dry
U nmordanted
Nil
4
4
4
3-4
Premordanti ng
CUS04 FeS04 SnCI 2 CUS04 FeS04 SnCI 2 CUS04 FeS04 SnCI 2
5 5 6-7
4-5 4-5 4-5
4-5 4-5 4-5
4 4 4-5
4 4-5 5
4-5 4-5 4-5
4-5 4-5 4-5
4 4 4
6-7 6-7 6-7
4-5 4-5 4-5
4-5 4-5 4-5
4 4 4-5
Mctamordanting
Postmordanting Fig. 2-Effect of mordants and mordanting techniques on KIS values of dyed samples
Mordant
INDIAN 1 . FIBRE TEXT. RES., SEPTEMBER 2006
476 postmordanting technique mordanti ng technique.
and
least
for
meta
Table I shows the colour characteristics of the natural dyed samples with and w ithout metallic salts. The dyed samples do not show any significant tonal variation on mordanting as is evident from the values of colour coordinates. Here, L * represents lightness/ darkness; a *, the red/green val ues; and b *, the yellow/blue value. Very slight variation is observed i n the a * and b* values o f unmordanted and the mordanted samples. These results show that all mordanted polyurethane samples show i ncrease in yellow content as well as green content as compared to unmordanted (dyed) sample. However, the samples mordanted with ferrous sulphate are duller in tone.
Table 2 shows that the fastness properties of the sample dyed with Ocimum sallctum and mordanted with copper sulphate, ferrous sulphate and stannous chloride are better than those of the only dyed samples. On comparing the fastness rati ngs of samples dyed by three mordanting techniques, the postmordanting technique always exhibi ts better l ight fastness properties than the metamordanting and pre mordanting techniques.
Polyurethane fibre can be dyed successfully with or without metall i c salts by methanolic extract of OCil1l1111l sanctulIl leaves. Postmordanting with metallic salts (within tolerable l i mit) should be preferred to achieve better KlS values. The fastness properties of various samples dyed with OCilllUIIl sallctulIl dye on mordanted polyurethane fibre are satisfactory and quite comparable with unmordanted and dyed samples. Polyurethane fibre is never used alone. It can be used along with any natural or synthetic fibre in 2-8 % proportion. Hence, the dyeing of polyurethane fibre with OCiJIIlllll sanctum dye appears as an effective eco-option and can be commercial ized. References Ultec A I 2
3 4 5 6
1, Encyclopedia of Polyurethane Science and Engineering, Vol. 6 (Wi ley I nterscience, New York), 1 980, 733. Noun D M, The Dyeing of SyntheTic PolYlI/er and Acetare Fibre (Dyers Company Publications Trust, B radford), 1 979, 32 1 . Ansari A A & Thakur B D, Colourage, 46 ( 1 999) 2 1 . Ko ate C K, Purohit A P & Gokhale S B , Pharlllacognosy, 1 2 ' edn (Nirali Prakshan, Pune), 1 990, 447. Liu 1 , Ethanoplwl"I/wcology, 49 ( 1 995) 57. Grover G S & Rao 1 T, Pelji/lne CosmeT, 5 8 ( 1 997) 326.
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