kaliningrad

guide

kaliningrad

2018

Welcome

to Kaliningrad

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KALININGRAD

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Free ride for

Fan ID

football fans,

FAN ID is a small

volunteers and

laminated form

FIFA accredited

with the holder’s

guests in urban

personal data.

and suburban transport (except taxi). Also free of charge are electric trains that run on the routes

FAN ID and the match ticket are

Addresses and opening

between sports

obligatory documents to show at the

hours of FAN ID collec-

events (including

entrance to a match. You should have had

tion points are

the metro)

it beforehand. It is issued for free

at www.fan-id.ru

FAN ID and the match ticket allow a free ride in transport in the cities and between them on the 2018 FIFA World Cup days

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FAN ID is a visa-free travel to the Russian Federation as well free of charge excursions and tourist routes

russia

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EXPECTATIONS Kaliningrad

Foreigners often think that an everlasting winter and snow hills two meters high are Russia. Even in summer it’s freezing cold and uncomfortable. May be there is no summer at all.

Amsterdam Rennes St. Petersburg

+20

Follow me! To be continued on the next page.

Moscow

Nizhniy Novgorod

Saransk

Rostov-on–Don Sochi

Volgograd

Kazan

REALITY

Samara Yekaterinburg

A lot of silly myths and legends are created about Russia, and foreigners believe them to be the truth. But sure enough it is an absolutely different country. And the Russians are not the people from those legends.

In fact in most parts of Russia summer is a warm and nice season. By comparison, Moscow summer is like Minneapolis (the USA) summer, the summer weather in Saint Petersburg is just like the weather in summer Copenhagen (Denmark), the weather in Kazan in summer resembles the weather in Chinese Harbin. It’s as hot in summer in Sochi as it is in Buenos Aires (Argentina) or Porto (Portugal). The country is so huge that there are practically all climate zones here: from the everlasting winter to the endless summer.

This tour guide will introduce you to real Russia and its people. Later you will see everything with your own eyes.

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russia

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For more than 1000 years of its existence Russia has left an enormous mark in the world history, culture and science. Our achievements are as great as the territory of the country.

Russian Ballet

Tolstoy

Same as the Russian history and culture… Yashin

Tchaikovsky

Mendeleev

The Russians were the first to launch a man into the space, we gave the world great writers, artists and music composers, we made outstanding discoveries in chemistry, phy­sics, mathematics and other sciences, we achieved considerable success in sports.

The country is so vast that it can’t be somehow limited 8

Gagarin

Dostoevsky

russia

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ma try

Ba

lal

RUSSIa... expectation

osh

ayk

a

ka

reality If you expect to see wild Russia, cities that look like villages, where bears walk along dirty paths, then you are terribly mistaken. Our country is in step with the time. The Russians love their culture, no less than modern technologies that became part of their life long time ago.

As far as bears are concerned, 99% of the Russians have seen them twice in their life at the zoo or in a circus. Matryoshkas and samovars are just souvenirs for fo­reign tourists.

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The Russians are kind, friendly and hospitable people, always ready to help. They are not aggressive. We are the same people like you are. And no, Russians don’t drink vodka all the time.

RUSSIan people...

reality

expectation

Traditional Russian breakfast?

There is no place for ra­cism or intolerance in Russia. People of more than 200 nationalities call Russia their home. It takes all sorts of people to make Russia and we are happy to be different.

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ABOUT THE CITY

KALININGRAD is geographically the westernmost city in Russia. The Kaliningrad region has no land boundaries with the main territory of the Russian Federation and is linked to it only via the Baltic sea. THE RUSSIAN CITY STATUS Kaliningrad obtained not long ago – after the end of World War II. One year later in 1946 it was named after the Soviet political leader Mikhail Kalinin. ITS FORMER NAME, Königsberg is translated from German as the King’s mountain. On the site of the Prussian settlement called Tuvangste, Teutonic Knights founded a fortress in 1255. Besides, Königsberg was once a Russian town when during the Seven Years’ War in 1758 the Russian soldiers entered the town and the locals swore allegiance to Empress Elizabeth. In 1862, after the treaty of piece had been signed, Königsberg again became a Prussian town. THE POPULATION of the city is about 460 000 residents and, 120 000-180 000 people more from other regions of the country come to Kaliningrad to work. Mass media claimed the city to be one of the best places to run business. The city is LOCATED on the River Pregolya, at its influx into the Vistula Bay of the Baltic Sea. THE CLIMATE is transitional from the marine to the continental. Due to the near position to the Gulf Stream the winter is quite mild here, whereas the summer is rather cool with average July temperature of about +20°C. TIME ZONE is GMT+2, that’s one hour behind Moscow.

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HOW TO GET TO THE CITY

From the airport The international airport Khrabrovo is located 24 kilometers to the north of Kaliningrad. You can easily get to downtown by one of the two modes of public transport.

Route taxi Route taxi № 244Э runs every 40 minutes from the airport to the city with the first vehicle from the airport at 8:20 am and the last - at 22:00. The coach journey to Yuzhny Coach station takes 45 minutes.

From the railway station Those who go to Kalinigrad by rail arrive at the main Railway station called Yuzhny Voksal. It is on Ploshchad Kalinina. The station links Kaliningrad to the other cities of the country.

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Taxi 24-hour taxi service takes you to Kaliningrad in half an hour. You can phone for a taxi at the information desk of the airport terminal. You can phone the operator yourself or use a mobile app. Wi-Fi is available in the main lounge of the terminal. The choice of cars is wide for the international, federal and local taxi services operate in Kaliningrad.

Car rental You can rent a car at the airport. Several companies provide the service. You need a passport and a driving license. Most likely, you will be asked for a breakage deposit.

Tens of buses and route taxis serve the Railway station. The Coach station is in a stone’s throw from the building of the Railway station.

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WHAT TO SEE Nowadays, Kaliningrad is a beautiful well-maintained city, comfortable for living and attracting for tourists. However, at the end of World War II it lay in ruins. Great work has been done to restore the city . Some of the architectural monuments survived, whereas others were fully reconstructed giving us a chance to learn the history of Kaliningrad-Königsberg.

must-see

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Kant Island It’s good to start your tour around Kaliningrad with Kant Island featuring some remarkable tourist destinations. The island is located at the junction of Ulitsa Oktyabr’skaya,

Lenina Prospect and Moskovsky Prospect. Kneiphof is its historical name meaning “surrounded by the water”. It is absolutely true for the place is washed with the waters of the River Pregolya. The pioneer settlers lived here. Interesting to know. There was a famous ageold “Seven Bridges of Königsberg problem” It was about the bridges across the Pregolya,

Jenny Izquierdo, student, Columbia Kaliningrad is a beautiful city for walking around many parks, near the lakes and, you can relax on the grass and play, or maybe go to some small towns in the suburbs and see the sea.

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five of which led to Kneiphof. The question was how to cross all the seven bridges without walking twice along each of them. The solution of the funny brain-teaser had brought to several scientific discoveries. In the 18th century the mathematician Leonhard Euler proved it to be impossible. And the Eulerian cycles were based on the solution of “Seven Bridges of Königsberg problem”. It’s rumoured that Emperor Bridge, the eigth in succession, was built in 1905 for a definite reason. Kaizer Wilhelm II, being at a party, couldn’t solve the problem of the seven 20

bridges and ordered to construct one more bridge to make it possible to solve the problem. Nowadays, Jubilee Bridge is found on the former site of Emperor Bridge ruined during World War II. The island was called after the most famous resident of the city – the outstanding German philosopher, Immanuel Kant. He lived in Königsberg all his life and was the professor of Könisberg University. The local people respected him greatly. The resting-place of the philosopher, the island, with his grave and the world’s largest

museum of Kant, is the attraction site of philosophy enthusiasts from all over the world. The Königsberg Cathedral, the gem of the island and the rare example of red-brick Gothic-style in Russia, is one of the symbols of Kaliningrad. The date of September,13th 1333 is considered to be the inception of the cathedral for the construction of it was approved on that very day. It’s difficult to say when exactly the cathedral was completed for it was under construction for more than 50 years. Initially it KALININGRAD 21

Worth seeing

was planned as a fortress-cathedral, but then the idea was declined and the walls were decreased in size and thickness. The earth floor had sunk in under the tower part, and the northern tower leaned for 45 centimetres from an axis, so it was dubbed the Baltic Pisa tower. Königsberg University, Albertina was founded in the 16th century and the cathedral became the university church. At that time the University bought a plot of land to bury the university professors. Kant was the last professor to find peace here. Somehow it saved the cathedral from its full 22

demolition after World War II. The building had been partially destroyed during the city assault and the local authorities decided to demolish the remnants. The fact that there was the grave of Kant prevented them from doing it. As it is known, the Communism ideologists highly respected the philosopher. In the 1990s the cathedral was restored to its original glory. Kant island with openair park of sculpures and lush greens is a nice setting for walking. At weekends Königsberg Cathedral hosts organ, piano and symphony concerts. The pipe organ here is the largest in Europe.

the Prussian cat looks marvelous inside the gate. It is not just a pet – it’s a guard of the keys. Stroking the cat brings good luck and fulfills wishes.

City’s gate The historic city centre is flanked by seven gates- the great guards to protect the city from all sides. They were erected in 17-19th centuries and are easily recognised by the red-brick Neo-Gothic style. Initially there were 10 gates but not all of them survived.

Nowadays King’s Gate is home to a branch of the Museum of World Ocean – the Great Embassy. The exposition tells about Königsberg, its foundation, its years as a fortress, and about its renowned guests.

King’s Gate is the grandest one and resembles a castle. It was reconstructed to the 750th anniversarry of the city in 2005. The reliefs of the governors, who played a significant role in the city’s life, grace the façade. Among them are Ottokar II, Duke Albrecht and Friedrich I. The venerable bronze of

Sackheim Gate is on the eastern side, not far from King’s gate. Very soon it had lost its military function and became somewhat a triumphal arch. Now it houses the art-platform “Vorota” – contemporary arts gallery. It’s a vibrant arts scene. Every month a

Victoria Korneva, producer Enjoy a walk around the former district Amalienau to feel the atmosphere of the old town and have a look at so different old mansions. The Port Embankment is not far from the district, and it’s where you realize that Kaliningrad is a sea city!

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The archway of Railway Gate, leading to Park Pobedy, is the only gate under the traffic way, Gvardeysky Prospect. Brandenburg Gate is the only one to be used as intended. Tram rails go through the two archways of the gate. The Gothicstyle elements grace the frontage.

new exhibition welcomes its guests, about 10-30 events are held here. Ausfaler Gate is in the western side and it was refurbished less than other gates. To fortify the gate, its walls were built into the earth mound. After World War II the gate was used as a warehouse and a bombshelter. Nowadays, it houses the Arts and History Museum.

The chapel to commemorate the soldiers, who died during the city assault, was erected in the late 20th century on the upper level of the Gate.

Friedland Gate, adjoining Park Yuzhny, houses the museum of the same name “Friedland Gate”,

dedicated to pre-war Königsberg. Friedrichburg gate is often added to the list of these iconic gates. It was the only gate that led to the fortress not the city. Due to the round turrets it looks like a small castle. It houses a branch of the Museum of the World Ocean – the Historical and Cultural Centre “The Ship Revival” displaying photos and drawings dedicated to the history of shipbuilding. Some boats are exhibited in the yard.

Rossgarten Gate in the south is one of the most beautiful. The frontage features seven vaulted niches, the central of which is topped with two turrets. There is a café inside the gate.

Alexandra Toropova, optician Are you planning a walk? You can start it with Rybnaya Derevnya, then, have a look at the Cathedral, stroll along Leningradsky Prospect up to Ploshchad Pobedy which opens onto Prospect Mira leading to Central Park with Luisenkirche.

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WHAT TO DO IF IT’S HOT Go to the beach in Yantarny If the day is hot there is no better way to spend it than to go to the village Yantarny. The first beach to get the Blue flag in Russia is here. This international award proves the fact that the purity of the sea water and the coast line comly with the highest standards of quality and safety. Being wide and long, the sandy beach doesn’t look crowded even at weekends. The Baltic Sea is a bit cool but it feels good in hot weather. The shallow waters make the beach childfriendly. Besides all the neccessary things for the seaside vacation are provided.

Stroll in Rybnaya derevnya Fine weather can tempt anyone into walking around beautiful places. The ethnographic complex “Rybnaya Derevnya” (fish village) is a perfect setting for it and there is no need to go out of town. Rybnaya Derevnya spreads along the River Pregolya (German: Pregel) between Vysoky Bridge and Medovy Bridge. The village encompasses several German-style buildings and a lighthousetower. Although the architecture of the village belongs to the early 21st century, the locals and tourists come here for the atmosphere of the old Königsberg.

You can photo the panoramic view from the observation platform on the top of the lighthouse-tower.

Relax in a park Central Park is one of the oldest in the city. In summer it is alive with concerts, films and municipal festivals. The Luisenkirche is the focal point of the park. It was built in an unusual for the city Romanesque style featuring some elements of Art Nouveau. The park enthusiasts will like Botanical Garden. The garden is a real nature reserve for it encompasses three thousand species of plants from different climatic zones. Some of them are registered in the Red Book. Park Yunost with a lot of different attractions: an in-door skating rink, a carting, a boat station, a rope park, a pavilion with butterflies offers a great choice for a family day trip. Yuzhny Park is a perfect place for slow walking. The recently opened Park of Minitures sports a collection of models of architectural monuments from all over Russia.

Check the charge of your camera for the cityscape is created right for photosessions. 26

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WHAT TO DO IF THE WEATHER TURNS NASTY It’s a well-known fact that Kaliningrad boasts a greater number of attractions for rainy weather than for the sunny one.

Visit the Museum of Amber The sunniest museum of the city – the Museum of Amber- is the right decision when the sky is overcast. You will find it in the city centre on the shore of Lake Verkhnee housed in the fortress tower. It’s not by chance that the whole building is given to one mineral. 90% of the world amber reserve is concentrated in the Kaliningrad region. 40 million years ago the territory of the present Baltic Sea was covered with coniferous trees. The resin had fossilized and turned into amber. The sea waves have been still washing ashore pieces of amber. Of course, in Kaliningrad you see amber everywhere, but the Museum’s collection displays the most interesting examples of it. Among them is the largest in Russia a 4-kilogram stone. There are some unique stones with insects or plants which got inside long ago when the resin was sticky and soft. Looking at them you understand why amber is called the first photographer.

during the days of the German General Lyash whose name the present museum bears – Lyash’s bunker. It was the initiative of Lyash to build the bunker and it was constructed in 1945 in recordinly short time – one month. Here during the city assualt the General made a decision to surrender in the presence of the Soviet representatives. The Bunker is rather spacious, 15 by 42 metres, with 21 rooms in it. It is fully equipped with the life-support system.

Visit Altes Haus A rainy day is a nice excuse for a home visit. Let it be even the house of the early 20th century owned by the West Prussia residents. The museum is housed in a flat of a dwelling house built in 1912. The carefully restored interior lets you step into the everyday life of the local people in the 1920s. All the wardrobes, lamps or cups are authentic – they were found in old attics or bought at European flee markets or auctions. The word “museum” doesn’t reflect the atmosphere of the place for you can touch any of the exhibits, sit in the armchairs and, nobody will reprove for it. We’ll put it simply, it’s utmost cordiality.

Get down to “Bunker” It’s not easy to notice the museum in the garden square adjoining Baltic Federal University named after Kant as it is located under the earth surface. The former German bombshelter, 7 meters deep, was converted into a museum. The interior was preserved as it was 28

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FURTHER AFIELD Kurshskaya kosa Please don’t save time on the trip to one of the most picturesque places in the Kaliningrad region, Kurshskaya kosa. This phenomenon of nature, a narrow hundred kilometer strip of land separates the salty Baltic Sea from the fresh waters of the Couronian Lagoon. From the bird’s eye-view it resembles a curved sabre. It’s the largest sand-dune spit with the width of 400 meters to 4 kilometers stretching from Russian Zelenogradsk up to Lithuanian Klaipeda. Being the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the 30

Spit is home to the national park. Coming here you feel like you are on a different planet covered with mysterious forests and sand dunes. It is washed from both sides by the endless mirror-like waters. The Couronian Spit has a unique ecosystem: the pine and birch forests as well as the moss lands are home for rare animal species. The Spit is especially interesting for bird watchers. The flyway of lots of birds go across it. Some of them are registered in the Red Book. The Fringilla ornithologi-

cal observation operates here every autumn and spring. You can get to the Spit differently: by car, by coach to the village Morskoye (it is located right on the Spit), by coach that goes from Kaliningrad to Klaipeda with a stop on the Spit; by train

or by coach to Zelenogradsk and then from it by bus or by taxi. The trip to the Spit takes about an hour.

Forts Nos. 5 and 11 If you got impressed by the seven Kaliningrad’s gates, then you would appreciate the fortifications in the suburbs. In

Natalya Andrusova, ebru expert (art of drawing on the water surface) Don’t be lazy and head to the Couronian Spit – this wonderful nature reserve with stunning views, animals, vast beaches, and fresh air! And then go to the Vistula Spit. The journey there is a real adventure: you go by ferry, get to old German airdromes, and see the hangars that used to shelter planes and other military machines. Here you can relax on absolutely wild beaches.

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And now you can have a guided tour of it. The excursion inside the fortress will be an interesting experience for lots of inner mechanisms remain intact, and you can even touch some of them. If the excursion seems a bit dull for you, there’s an escape room dedicated to the mysteries and secrets of Denhoff. the late 19th century 12 strong forts were erected to defend the road circling the city. They were called “The night feather bed of Königsberg”, and each fort was named after a glorified German military commander or a king. Though being erected as the fortifications, the forts for several decades stood far from the battles including of World War I. Its military function the ring of the forts fulfilled during the assault of Königsberg by the Red Army at the end of World War II. When fort by fort surrended after several hours of the battle, Fort № 5 “King Friedrich Welhelm III” was a place of fierce fighting which lasted for one day. It’s interesting to know that 32

the medal “For the Capture” was awarded to the soldiers of the Red Army only for a capture of a capital. The only exception - the medal “For the Capture of Königsberg” though it was not a capital city. Fort № 5 was ruined during the battle. For the last 40 years it has been known as the Museum of the Great Patriotic War. The fort is a six-sided construction of bricks and concrete. It is partially open for visiting and it houses the museum of fortification and military machines. You can also see the exhibition of rare military photoes called “Assault of Königsberg”. The Soviet machine-guns, torpedoes, battleship guns are displayed in the

Fort’s grounds. There is a memorial to commemorate the dead of the assault. War-historic reenactments are held here on holidays. Fort №11 “Denhoff”. Once the propery of RF Ministry of Defense, this fort was converted into a museum.

You can get to Fort №11 by bus or route taxi to “Mel’kombinat” stop. Then you walk for 20 minutes along Ulitsa Energetikov and turn at the direction sign. More lines of public transport reach Fort №5 and the stop is also called “Fort №5”. You can get to both of the forts by car.

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Zheleznodorozhny settlement Zheleznodorozhny is a destination for history lovers. This small town , formerly named Gerdauen lies in 70 kilometers from Kalinigrad. It was founded in the 14th century. In the middle ages a castle, a kirche and some fortifications were built here. Less than half of the constuctions survived World War I. Most of them were restored several years later and they were even not ruined during World War II. Alexander Bekker, writer, YouTube – bloger, translator Explore the castle-museum Nesselbeck, 3 kilometers from the city. The museum hosts knight tournaments and brews beer. You will like it here. You should also visit resort towns located on the coast of the Baltic Sea. Zelenogradsk is synonymous with beach volleyball, promenade, hotels and restaurants. Svetlogorsk, retaining the German character and architecture more than other towns in the region, boasts the best in the region concert hall “Yantar-hall”. Yantarny features the only in Russia beach with the Blue flag.

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Now in Zheleznodorozhny you can witness an architectural phenomenon which the specialists call “East Prussian reconstruction”. It’s when you can’t distinguish medieval buildings from the 19th-century ones. It’s interesting to stroll along the streets of residential houses, exploring the architectural elements and imagining the everyday life of the people who lived hundreds years ago. Coaches from Yuzhny coach station come to Zheleznodorozhny. The travel time is about two hours. KALININGRAD 35

I love Kaliningrad because it is so much like my home city Riga. The most appealing thing is seaside!

Immanuel Kant Baltic Federal University, Hotel service

I like it for friendly atmosphere, calm life, proximity to the sea and resorts. I like the city in general, its location in the centre of Europe, opportunities to build a prosperous future.

I really like Kaliningrad because of its European character, atmosphere, and architecture. The location of Kaliningrad is truly magnificent, being located in the heart of Europe and at the Baltic Sea. The Russians are very interesting; they are culturally and intellectually educated and have profound knowledge of their country’s rich history.

Immanuel Kant Baltic Federal University, student

radio physics, student

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WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK

good good fish fish

go od

The Baltic fish Scientists recommend fish three times a week. In Kaliningrad you can have it every day. It’s not only good for health but always very fresh here. Every day you can try something new: fried smelt with onions, salted,dried cod which is ideal with beer, light tender chops of pike; smoked or canned in oil Baltic herring and of other things. fishlots Some dishes present themselves as real local highlights. Lithuanian borshch When we ask what soup is considered to be the best for summer, many people name okroshka. But here in Kaliningrad they have their own version. Any local prefers to have Lithuanian borshch on a hot July day.

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The recipe goes back to the Soviet period when Lithuania was part of the USSR, and trips to Nida or Klaipeda didn’t need visas. This refreshing and nurishing dish is cooked with finely cut beet, cucumbers and radish. We pour the mixture with thick kefir and mineral water. Hot potatoes, fried or boiled, are served separately. In hot weather this borshch is a hit of the local cafés and restaurants.

Nikolajs Matushevs, radio physics, student, Latvia Tabasko, Burger-bar, Monte Cappuccino (one of the best cappuccinos in the city), On Fire – spicy food and Port-o-coffee on Chernyakhovskogo – great Americano.

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ShoUlD alSo be tRIeD

German-style meatballs The local cuisine is influenced by the neighbourhood with both the sea and Germany. At least, Königsberg klops have got German roots. Being a golf-ball size, they are cooked with pork and veal minced meat. Klops are boiled in broth with a whole onion, allspice, bay leave, parsley and lemon peel. They are served with cream source and a hearty portion of capers, which add some sour flavor to the dish.

Stroganina Almost any restaurant in the city offers stroganina – slices of frozen fish served cold. Its recipe goes down the ages. It’s difficult to name the source of the tradition.

and frozen fish. Anyway, stroganina is very popular among the locals. Kaliningrad is the only place where horsemackerel is used for this purpose. You must really try it.

Some people say that it was first cooked in Russia’s High North and the first settlers to the territory of the present Kaliningrad brought it with them. Other people claim that the sailors of floating factory ships were the first to slice fresh-caught

It’s not just a dish, it’s a ritual: you sprinkle fish with oil, add salt and pepper, some onion rings, squeeze a lemon on top of it and stir everything. Every eating place has its own ways of slicing fish ranging from fine chip to large rolls.

Boiled potatoes and pickled beet make a perfect garnish. Olga Ryabkova, bank manager For some tasty food in Kaliningrad hotfoot to restaurant “Chesnok” (garlic). Paying for admission you can buy food and drinks here at cost price. And the food is delicious here! The restaurant “DA” offers the modern Russian cuisine. Both the restaurants are in favor of the locals.

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Eel Don’t miss smoked eel while dining your way through Kaliningrad. A mere glance at this sea “snake” is enough to be terrified. Any local will say that to have a good eel you should go to the Couronian Spit. Of course, you can find

smoked eel in Kaliningrad, but there is a major risk to buy its Chinese brother. To buy the Baltic eels you need to travel 90 kilometers. Smokecured fish is preferable for its taste, however its storage life is rather short. If you get frightened by the sight of a whole eel, and you don’t feel a yearning to go out of town, then order ukha or shish-kebab of eel at a restaurant. But remember, it’s very fat.

Alexandra Marchenko, event-agency owner, bloger For some good and tasty food try “Parmesan”, an Italian restaurant. For beer head to the classical pub “Britanika”: the frothy drink, stroganina of horse-mackerel, sausages and other beer snacks. “Resto-Presto” offers a quick bite. This bistro is housed in the city administration building and servers good pizzas, pasta, burgers and grilles for reasonable prices including wine. You can have a cheap meal in “Patisson Markt”. It’s a café slightly resembling a canteen. “Bykov Bar” is a stylish place with the Scandinavian atmosphere and rock-dancing. “Nisha” is a premium-class restaurant. The club “City Jazz” hosts concerts of local groups.

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Drinks with buckthorn berries If there were no the Museum of Amber in Kaliningrad, it would be reasonable to open the Museum of Buckthorn. The region is amply rewarded by nature with the amber stones and the berries of the amber color. The berries provoke the local restorators to make some culinary experiments. Check the menu for some authentic Kaliningrad features – tea with buckthorn or buckthorn juice. Alcohol and nonalcohol

cocktails are also made with buckthorn here. Well, the berries are added not only to drinks but salads as well. Hot dish is often served with buckthorn mousse.

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Beer, brandy and something else The brandy “Old Königsberg” is an iconic drink of Kaliningrad. Aficionados mark its delicate aroma of vanilla and silky warming afterglow. The only drink that the locals love more than brandy is beer. It’s even impossible to enumerate all the breweries and sorts of beer here. If you are not for alcohol, then try some brewing syrop. It contains a great amount of vitamin B and is good for health. Drinking it is like investing in your immune system and brain.

MUST-HAVE Amber The Kaliningrad region is an undisputable leader in amber. You can find here a lot of different things made of it: jewellery, tableware, pictures and even cosmetics. It is believed that amber is good for health and helps cure people. For this purpose you need rough amber stones. You can find amber powder,masks, face and body scrubs based on it in pharmacies. How to avoid buying fake amber? The natural amber is light-weight and warm to the touch. Its plastic fake is cold and heavier. The natural amber has color variations in one piece, wheras plastic is entirely of one color. The natural amber is bubble and void free. 44

Marzipan Marzipan is the most popular dainty in the city. As legend has it, it appeared in Königsberg not due to “dolche vita”, but on the contrary, when people where suffering from famine. After the bakers of the city had run out of the flour they used what had left in warehouses: ground almonds and rose water. Instead of bread they made a new dessert. Now you can buy marzipan at every turn – in food and brand shops. The Museum of Marzipan is a mecca for a sweet-tooth. There they make this dainty by hand to the old recipe. You will trace the museum by the sweet flavour from Park Yunost, which is home to the museum. Buckthorn oil The branches of buckthorn grace the Coat of Arms of the settlement Yantarny in the Kaliningrad region. And it’s not by chance. The shrubs of this plant cover thickly the grounds of Yantarny. The buckthorn is ripe by the summer end, so now you can buy it as a preserve or buckthorn oil. Though being of specific taste, these berries are very good for health. We don’t recommend home-made buckthorn oil – there is a risk to have it blended with sunflower oil. The best place to purchase it is a pharmacy or a cosmetics shop. KALININGRAD 45

I am the first in Russia tour guide with a degree in this sphere and I ‘m a person with disabilities. I work at the development of the Accessibility in tourism in the region. I am the head of the Centre of Social and Educational projects “Aura”. Kaliningrad is a city of extraordinary destiny and history. Nobody stays indifferent to it. Our region is not large, but it’s made of natural beauty and breathes history. The magnificent Cathedral and the Museum of Amber (the sunny stone), the underwater mysteries in the Museum of the World Ocean or just a cup of coffee in Rybnaya derevnya – these are some of the pleasures accessible also for disabled people in our city. “It’s impossible to travel in a wheel-chair” –those were my thoughts seven years ago. I believed the world was closed for the people like me. It was available only virtually. For now I have visited 14 countries and more than 300 cities.

I can’t bear when one day is like another, one week is like the next one, and months look like dull twins. In travelling and guiding I feel the life. I color it bright depriving of mundanity. From my journeys round the world I bring new ideas and turn them into my Kaliningrad projects. Arranging tours to the Kaliningrad region I feel happy because I can realize somebody’s dream. It can be one of those, who come out of the house four times a year to have a look at the sea or, who loves football and can see one of the matches of the World Cup. It’s very important for me to teach physically- challenged people not to be afraid of their dreams, to obtain a goal for which they will get up in the morning. I want to help those wishing to make museums, hotels, parks, or entertainment centres accessible for everybody.

I love life for life itself – I love life in all its manifestations!

social activist

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KALININGRAD 47

WHERE TO STAY Useful advice There is no shortage of hotels in Kaliningrad. Practically, they are like anywhere in the world. However, the locals have taken over the European tradition to establish mini-hotels and guest houses. It has made the choice of accomodation much wider. You can stay in a comfortable room and recieve a cordial welcome for a rather reasonable price. You find hostels everywhere in Kaliningrad: in 48

residential districts, on the bank of the Pregolya or in the city centre, nearer to the main sights. All the hotels and hostels provide free Wi-Fi. For a quicker travel to any city destination try hotels in the vicinity to the transport hub on Ploshchad Pobedy. Seeking extraodinary, then look out for a hotel housed in an unusual building or a historic city zone like Rybnaya Derevnya.

Seaside hotels and resorts, located not far from the city or on the Couronian Spit, are perfect accommodation for romantic people. They are also suitable for those travelling by car. It takes about half an hour to get to the city centre, depending on the chosen hotel.

Extra advice If you rent a flat, you should know that only cold water is supplied to the house. To make it hot there is a geyser which is switched automatically when you let the water

run and heats the water to the needed temperature. The weather is rather changeable: even on a sunny day it can suddenly start raining. When outing, take a jacket and an umbrella. There are three districts in Kaliningrad – Leningradsky, Moskovsky and Tsentralny. You can’t say which is more or less prestigeous among them. The price of accommodation depends on the house itself and the environment. KALININGRAD 49

TRANSPORT Kaliningrad has an extensive ground public transport system. Mostly buses and route taxis operate in the city. Tickets are bought on board the bus. In route taxi you pay when you get off. Several trolleybus lines serve the city. There is only one tram route 5. The public transport operates from 6am until 11pm. Practically all the lines, including the tram, pass through Ploshchad Pobedy in the city centre. The Square is one of the 50

main landmarks and the basic tourist orienting point of the city. Ploshchad Pobedy is a well-maintained and pleasant square for walking. The Triumphal Stela was erected here to commemorate the 750th anniversary of the city. The Church of Christ the Saviour was built 30 years ago, and some time later - the Chapel of Peter and Fevronia. The city administration is housed opposite it. There are also several shopping centres near the square.

Severny Railway station is in the vicinity of Ploshchad Pobedy. It’s the second most important railway station after the central one called Yuzhny Railway station which is near Ploshchad Kalinina. There are two Coach stations in the city : stary (old), located near Yuzhny Railway station and novy (new) – in the north-east on Moskovsky Prospect. KALININGRAD 51

DON’T MISS

The Königsberg Cathedral

Brandenburg Gate

King’s Gate

STADIUM

Stadium Kaliningrad will host the 2018 FIFA World Cup group stage matches.

Ploshchad Pobedy

The Dohna Tower (Dohnaturm)

Capacity: 35 000 Location: Oktyabrsky Island

Sackheim Gate

Fort № 11

Rybnaya derevnya

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KALININGRAD 53

USEFUL INFORMATION Useful telephone For fire service, call

For police, call

01

numbers For ambulance, call

02

03 HELLO

112

112

112

HI

GOOD GOOD MORNING

HI

MORNING

Europe-type sockets

220 V 50 Hz

Mobile telephony 3G, 4G, LTE

WI FI

WI FI

In all the cities of the 2018 FIFA World Cup you have an easy access to the Internet, free WiFi zones in hotels and in WI FI a great number RESTAURANT of cafes and restaurants.

HELLO

112 04

112 Electricity

24‑hour emergency call centre (mobile phone) – 112

Internet

For gas service, call

RESTAURANT

HOTEL

Money, currency exchange

WI FI

V

WI FI

HOTEL

WI FI RESTAURANT

WI FI You can exchange money in banks and RESTAURANT in bureaus de change located in large shopping centers. Never change money from private dealWI FI ers.

WI FI HOTEL

V

RESTAURANT

54

USEFUL INFORMATION 55

HELLO HELLO

HI

HI

MORNING MORNING

HELLO

OLLEH Foreign Languages IH

M

HI

Every city district in Russia has its post office where from you can send a parcel, a letter or a postcard.

Most of hotel staff and those in tourist business speak English. In case you need to ask a question in the street, address it to people under 30 – they are likely to speak English.

HELLO

GOOD MORNING

Post office

GOOD MORNING

HI

211 WI FI

WI FI RESTAURANT

WI FI WI FI

HOTEL

V

IF IW

In emergency

HOTEL HOTEL

In any unusual situations appeal to the police. With any problems and questions at the stadiums, fan-zones or railway stations appeal to the volunteers of the 2018 FIFA World Cup.

V

IF IW

Car rent

You can rent a car in most of the large citiesRin Russia. You need to have a regular passport and a valid driving license, no less than 1 year of driving experience.

TNARUATSER

RR

V V

V

LETOH

R

211 56

USEFUL INFORMATION 57

58

59

60

Federal Agency for Tourism