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board very busy. We finished the .... town of Colona sprang up and Ralph and Rose. Smith participated in ... In 1992, Rollin and Alyce sold their ranch to Vince ... year's parade by Paul Martin of the Black Canyon Auto. Club. ..... he could vote for Abraham Lincoln for president. ... and put in black powder and a fuse. Then they ...
“The horizon of the present cannot be formed without the past.”

Pullout Section

– Hans-Georg Gadamer Fall 2011

Experience living history at Open Ranch event

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ave you ever wondered what lies those beyond impressive log entrances to Colorado’s grand cattle ranches? Find out the weekend of September 24-25 when the Centennial Ranch, just south of Colona, Colorado, welcomes the public for an “Open Ranch” event. Spend a golden autumn day wandering through historic ranch buildings and pristine meadows. A conservation easement preserves the property in perpetuity, protecting wildlife habitat, riparian timber-frame the rancher’s ecosystems and the traditional 4Entrance to Theinclude Dashwood, Centennialstunning, Ranch’s main house. home, detailed with medieval-style, handranching lifestyle. The Open Ranch will run 11 a.m.-4 p.m. both days. A cowboy cookout forged ironwork. The line cabin is an authentic (includes chili and biscuits/hot-dog lunch) is cowboy shelter, complete with cast-iron cookincluded in the price of admission, $15 per stove and rustic furnishings. It is an authentic adult and free for ages 19 and under. All pro- replica of cabins often built on the perimeter of ceeds go to the Ouray County Historical large ranches. Visitors also will tour the calving shed and Society and Museum. The 400-acre property occupies a rugged the main barn, which houses draft horses and a stretch of the Uncompahgre River canyon. trove of western relics and implements. All Originally homesteaded in 1879, the buildings were constructed with salvaged or Centennial Ranch remains a family-owned recycled materials. The entire spread has been working cattle ranch. It was owned by one fam- featured in Architectural Digest. The event is made possible through the genily for over 100 years and purchased by the cursupport of sponsors including The erous rent owners in 1992. They have preserved the legacy of Western Slope ranching in every Double Shoe Cattle Company, The Double RL detail---from the spruce-log line cabin to the Ranch, Citizens State Bank, Edward Jones gleaming bits and spurs hanging in the tack Investments, and Phil Icke. The Centennial Ranch is located about two room of the Centennial barn. Visitors will be provided a 20- page handout miles south of Colona, CO and 12 miles south with self-guided tours that showcase meticu- of Montrose on Highway 550. Tickets may be lously restored and recreated structures. Those purchased each day of the event at the gate.

Smith family ranch: a 100-year legacy

When James Nelson Smith and Charlotte Eldridge arrived in the Uncompahgre Valley in a covered wagon, the Utes still roamed the Western Slope, Montrose was not yet founded, and miners swarmed the San Juans around the new communities of Ouray and Silverton. The couple chose a site for their homestead about two miles south of the Los Pinos Agency (present day Colona). The Smiths built a tiny log cabin with a dirt roof on the fertile banks of the Uncompahgre River surrounded by sandstone and shale cliffs. Chief Shavano raised a small garden on the north part of the Smith’s ranch. After the Utes were removed to Eastern Utah, the Smiths purchased other homesteads adding fields to their ranch. The couple raised nine children on their farm. They planted the fields with hay and raised apple and peach trees on the higher ground. After James’ death, their son Ralph continued operation of the lands. He bought Hereford cattle and grazed his herd on higher leased ground on family National Forest lands. The Smiths expanded their variety of crops to include barley, oats, wheat, and corn. The small town of Colona sprang up and Ralph and Rose Smith participated in community events. Eventually, their son Rollen assumed the position of running the ranch. He married Alyce Mae Soderquist and their children and grandchildren worked and played on the ranch, help-

ing with the haying and milking and riding ponies in their spare time. Ralph and Alyce Mae’s grandchildren were the fifth generation to call the Smith Ranch home. In August of 1988, the Smith Brothers Ranch was awarded a Centennial Farm Certificate from the Colorado Historical Society and the Colorado Department of Agriculture. This award signifies that a ranch or farm has been owned by one family for over 100 years. In 1992, Rollin and Alyce sold their ranch to Vince and Joan Kontny. The Kontnys honored the Smith family by naming their ranch “Centennial Ranch.” Vince and Joan have continued the tradition of maintaining the ranch as a working cow/calf operation. The ranch has been preserved in perpetuity with a conservation easement, and the Kontny’s intention is to keep the ranch in their family for another 100 years.

4Cowboys at work on Smith Ranch.

4Map to Centennial Ranch just south of Colona, where an Open Ranch event takes place Sept. 24-25.

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PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE

s the parent of a college bound student I can attest to the whirlwind of activities that surrounds the end of summer and the start of a new school year. The OCHS has had a similar spate of events and activities that have kept the staff and the board very busy. We finished the summer with By Kevin Chismire record attendance at our Evenings of History and our 4th of July weekend was an absolute success due in part to the presence of Joseph Gregory (great-grandson of Evalyn Walsh McLean) who not only rode in the parade, but gave lectures regarding the history of the Hope Diamond and the Walsh-McLean families. Our quilt show and our San Juan Memories photo exhibits also garnered rave reviews as did the very well received

“Dinner with Otto Mears” which still has people talking. The special exhibit depicting “One Hundred Years of Ouray County Ranching and Farming” was a wonderfully organized and displayed exhibit which was timely in that it ushers us in to our last major fundraiser of the year. We will be having an open house at the Centennial Ranch (Double Shoe Ranch) owned by Vince Kontny which is situated some two miles south of Colona. Lots of fun and interesting activities are planned for this two-day event on Sept 24 and 25. The Centennial Ranch celebration promises to be the final feather in our activities cap as the OCHS brings an end to the summer. As always, we strive to bring to you, our patrons, the best of our county’s history. Thank you all for your continued support. Kevin Chismire President Ouray County Historical Society

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NEWS & NOTES

Ross Moore Library receives donation

Board member George Moore, chief curator for the Ross Moore Mining History Library, has more work cut out for him, due the generosity of the library’s namesake. Early this summer, Ross Moore, of Fort Jackson, Texas, donated 21 boxes of minerals and nine boxes of books to the existing library. The Ross Moore library consists of more than 7,000 valuable items related to mineralogy, mining, and geology. It includes hard-back books, mining and geology publications, maps and mineral specimens. George, already has cataloged (via computer) more than 75 percent of the library’s books and articles and continues to update the online index. That can be accessed on the Ross Moore Library page

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QUILT RAFFLE DRAWING APPROACHES

4(Left to right) Ken Lawler and his wife Darlene Lawler, with Robert Stoufer and George Moore at the museum.

of the OCHS website, www.ouraycountyhistoricalsociety.org. Ross Moore’s nephew, Ken Lawler, coordinated delivery of the new donations with Board member Robert Stoufer. Both Robert and George are geologists and mining history experts.

Eves of History brings record crowds

The OCHS 2011 Evenings of History series proved more popular than ever this season. Most of the lectures attracted more than 100 people. Historic topics ranged from railroading to mining to the history of Log Hill. Some of the more unusual aspects of the area’s history included “Una Wheeler Whinnerah: Pioneer Ouray Photographer” and “On the Backs of Burros.” Historian and author P. David Smith’s presentation on

4The 2011 OCHS raffle quilt is entitled “Ouray Mining Memories. It features exquisite 4P. David Smith with burros.

the burro’s role in Ouray County history included a live illustration. He is pictured above with two gentle friends loaned from Maple Taylor for the occasion.

4Left: Debra & Gail Jossi. Right: Dana Ketterhagen, Debra Jossi & Suzanne Rondinelli.

Volunteers beautify outdoor exhibits

Thanks to a “lawn party” of volunteer laborers, the area around the cabins and Marie Scott barn is now lush and green. Board Member Gail Jossi assembled a crew of workers who laid sod throughout the museum grounds. The OCHS offers sincere thanks to those who donated time and materials to

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handi-work and 14 sepia-tone vintage photographs from the OCHS photo archive.

the project. Besides Gail, the list includes: Joey Fedel, Ryan Hein, Craig Hinkson, Phil Icke, Debra Jossi, Suzanne Rondinelli, Dana Ketterhagen, Cooper and Sam Rondinelli, Robert and Zachery Stoufer, Nick Sustana, Maple Taylor and Jerome Evans.

nly two weeks remain in the race to purchase the winning ticket for the Ouray County Historical Society’s 2011 raffle quilt. The drawing will be held at the Open Ranch event at 3 p.m., Sept. 25 at the Centennial Ranch between Ridgway and Montrose. A tribute to mining history in Ouray County, “Ouray Mining Memories” features a colorful, handappliquéd and embroidered depiction of the Yankee Girl Mine head frame. The head frame is surrounded by vintage photographs of Ouray County mining days in the 1880s. The sepia-tone photos were selected

from the OCHS photo archives. The 45-by-48-inch wall hanging was created by 15 local women under the direction of master quilter Sue Hillhouse. Perhaps because of the mining theme, this quilt particularly appeals to men. More raffle tickets have been sold to men this year than ever before! It is now on view at the Ouray County Historical Museum at the top of Sixth Avenue in Ouray. Tickets are two for $5 or five for $10 and may be purchased at the museum, at Buckskin Booksellers, and the Alpine and Citizen State Banks in Ouray.

MUSEUM ALERT! WISH LIST: n Swivel Desk Chair with Height Adjustment n Photoshop CS4 or CS5 for the MAC computer n Power Mower n Small TV with built in DVD player n Lockable Display Cases

n One female mannequin and one female (top) ? mannequin n Volunteers needed to: build window boxes for cabin, chink the log cabin, build 2 more benches for lawn area, stain/preserve Marie Scott Barn??

STORY OF HOPE DIAMOND INTRIGUES JULY 4 CROWD

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4Sue Hillhouse wears Hope Diamond replica.

ty to be photographed wearing the he museum’s 2011 4th of famous blue diamond. Joseph proJuly celebration was a vided a high-end replica of the record-breaking success. About 200 Hope Diamond necklace for the visitors stopped by after the parade occasion. for brownies, lemonade and museIn his presentation, Joseph traced um tours. But the main attraction the history of the Hope Diamond this year was Joseph Gregory, greatfrom its discovery in a mine in India grandson of Evalyn Walsh McLean. in the 17th Century to its current Besides signing copies of his home in the Smithsonian Institute book, “The Hope Diamond,” he where it is the world’s top museum explained the history of the famous exhibit. Joseph’s descriptions of gem---once owned by his greatcatastrophes supposedly related to grandmother---to rapt audiences. Joseph also showed vintage home 4Joseph McLean Gregory & Evalyn Strange. the gem elicited gasps from the audience. When he invited people movies taken by Evalyn when she to inspect the Hope Diamond repliwas a society queen in Washington D.C. Evalyn was the daughter of Thomas Walsh, dis- ca, Sydney Hipp, of Helotes, Texas, declared, “I’m not touching that thing!” coverer and owner of the Camp Bird Gold Mine. Despite the Hope Diamond’s reputation for bringing Joseph and his sister, Evalyn Strange, cruised in a 1955 Bel Air Chevrolet loaned to the museum for this extremely bad luck to owners, Joseph honors the legacy year’s parade by Paul Martin of the Black Canyon Auto of the jewel, now valued at $250 million. “The Hope Club. Topping off the festivities was a special “photo Diamond is making good things happen,” he told his op,” which gave ladies the once-in-a-lifetime opportuni- audience. “It brings people like you together.”

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REPORT FROM THE MUSEUM CURATOR

hings have been busy this summer at the Museum. Gail Jossi and her crew have finished a beautiful landscaping of the grounds to the west of the Museum. This includes new sidewalks, grading and resodding of the grass. The upstairs rooms in the museum have new fluorescent lighting which makes those rooms gleam. The museum’s VCR/TV combination finally died so we have added a small flat screen TV and DVD player to play the Hope Diamond DVD in the Walsh-Zanett Room. I keep finding unlabeled items in out of the way places in the Museum that turn out to be really fascinating. My favorite find By Don Paulson this summer was a heavy 12” by 12” by 2” cast iron horse tie. It has a handle on top for carrying it. A Ouray ice deliveryman used it in the late 19th century. The driver would throw the weight on the ground and then tie his horse to it while making a delivery. We have put up a new Water Fight exhibit using Jack Fay’s helmets from the 1970s. Jack made his helmets from old Ouray High School football helmets. This summer former Ridgway resident Jim Francis donated over 200 books on the history of southwestern Colorado. This is a remarkable collection including every book ever written about both the photographer William Henry Jackson and Otto Mears, the Pathfinder of the San Juans. This year we have put up more than 40 new information signs in the museum. Visitors keep telling me that they will need to come back for a second and even third time. George Moore and Robert Stoufer have contributed countless hours indexing and labeling with call information our nearly 5000-book library that continues to grow daily. Our staff, which includes Kate Kellogg, Susan Dougherty and our director Maria Jones, continue to amaze me with their innovative ideas and hard work. Susan, Maria and Kate check in visitors in between all their other duties. Kate writes our press releases; Susan is our graphics expert and Maria, who does everything imaginable for the museum, makes miracles happen in our hectic schedule. Stop by the Ouray Visitor Center and see the new Museum poster designed by Susan Dougherty. We have also put a sign on a railroad switch stand in front of the Ouray Visitor Center which tells the story of the D&RG Railroad in Ouray. We have a dedicated volunteer staff, including Marianne Zegers, Jane Haefner, Sharon Case, Madi Buske, Ginny Meunier , and Gaynelle Tellman, who check in visitors and do all sorts of odd jobs that Maria and I dream up for them. Sandra Swenson does our accessioning, Glenda Moore is our research paper archivist, and Sue Babcock is our photo archivist. There are also others who volunteer when we call on them. I should also mention that we have the hardest working Board I have ever seen. They also do countless hours of volunteer work. You can read about each Museum Board member on our museum web page: www.ouraycountyhistoricalsociety.org. Please stop in and visit our marvelous museum. It changes on a weekly basis and there is still time to visit our Ouray County Ranching and Farming Exhibit that runs through November.

OURAY COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY BOARD OF DIRECTORS:

Kevin Chismire, President Tom Hillhouse, Vice-President Joey Huddleston, Secretary Bud Zanett, Treasurer Phil Icke Gail Jossi

George Moore Don Paulson Walt Rule Gail Saunders Robert Stoufer Ted Zegers

NEWSLETTER COMMITTEE:

Maria Jones, Kate Kellogg and Gail Saunders. MISSION STATEMENT:

The Ouray County Historical Society (OCHS) is dedicated to preserve, protect, procure, exhibit, and interpret whatever relates to the natural, social, and cultural history of Ouray County and the adjacent San Juan Mountain Region of Colorado.

Ouray County Historical Society’s Newsletter

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OCHS JOURNAL ARTICLE WINS NATIONAL AWARD

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he OCHS Journal local history is important, and that the publications received national recognition in July when of local historical societies play an important part in Jim Pettengill’s article preserving the events and “The Marlow Brothers’ accomplishments of the Texas Ordeal and Life in Ouray County” won the people who made us who Outstanding Western we are. The Marlow brothers’ story of courage, History Article (Scholarly devotion to family, and and/or Historical community service speaks Publication) award from the Wild West History clearly to us today. The OCHS Journal is building Association. Jim’s article a reputation as a top-qualappeared in the Journal’s ity regional publication.” Volume 4, 2010 issue. The Journal is edited Jim received his by museum curator Don award at the WWHA’s 4Jim Pettengill receiving the WWHA Outtanding Western History Copies of national convention in Article (Scholarly and/or Historical publication) award in Cody, Paulson. Cody, Wyoming, where he Wyoming. Pettengill (left), WWHA President Pam Potter (center), Volume 4, 2010 are availalso signed copies at the WWHA Awards Chairman Carroll Moore (right). Daniel Patterson photo able at the museum, or Buffalo Bill Historical online at www.mtsneffelsCenter. “This award is a significant honor, both for me press.com. For information on WWHA and its proand for OCHS,” Jim says. “It shows that documenting grams and awards, visit www.wildwesthistory.org.

100 YEARS OF FARMING AND RANCHING

41940 Tractor is among the photographs on display in the exhibit “100 Years of Ouray County Farming and Ranching 1875-1975” which continues through Nov. 19.

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VOLUNTEERS ARE THE HEART OF THE MUSEUM

he museum’s top-notch volunteer corps continues to grow. Several new volunteers came on board this summer to contribute their energy and talents. Madison “Madi” Buske is a junior at the Colorado Virtual Academy, an on-line public school affiliated with Ouray Public Schools. She was looking for something different to do during her summer vacation when board member Gail Jossi suggested volunteering at the museum. “I’ve always been interested in history and read a lot of historical fiction,” she said. “I thought it would be interesting to hang out with historic artifacts.” Madi is learning procedures for the never-ending job of accessioning. She also admits visitors, assists with mailings and helped pull off the very successful “Dinner with Otto Mears fundraiser.” Sharon and Dudley Case moved to Ouray County from St. Charles, Illinois in 2009. A high school teacher for 30 years, Sharon is fascinated with history and the study of family ancestries. She and Dudley, a retired

attorney, are assisting Glenda Moore on research projects. Sharon also donates her proof-reading skills, mans the front desk, and helps keep the museum clean and orderly. Sharon and Dudley helped set up this year’s photo exhibit and helped hang quilts for the quilt show. Both served as efficient table attendants at “Dinner for Otto Mears.” Ginny Meunier, formerly of Edmond, Oklahoma, had visited Ouray for years and is now a permanent resident. In her former life, she was a registered nurse working in coronary and intensive care and also served as office manager for her husband’s CPA firm. Her longtime interest in local history inspired her to become involved with the OCHS. Ginny assembles museum guide books, keeps the sandwich boards around town up-to-date, greets visitors and lends her considerable computer skills to the museum’s office staff. The OCHS always welcomes additional volunteers. No special skills are necessary. Please call 325-4567 if you are interested in volunteering at the museum.

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BECOME A MEMBER!

lease join us and become a member of OCHS. Your financial and volunteer support is essential to the historic preservation of Ouray County. Members receive free admission to the Museum and 10% discount on items in the OCHS bookstore.

Membership dues are as follows: $25: Silver King Level (Individual only) $40: Guston Level (Family – in home) $50-$99: Revenue Level $100-$249: Grizzly Bear Level $250-$499: National Belle Level $500-$999: Yankee Girl Level 4Former hospital, at 420 Sixth

$1000 and above: Camp Bird Level

A ve nu e, hou s es Ou ra y C o un ty Museum.

$50 and above: Business Membership

4MUSEUM 4CITY HALL 4COURTHOUSE

Send checks to OCHS, PO Box 151, Ouray, CO 81427 or call 325-4576. Thank you! The Ouray County Historical Society (OCHS) thanks 550 Publishing, Inc., publisher of the Ouray County Plaindealer, for its assistance in designing, printing and distributing our newsletter.

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‘DINNER WITH OTTO MEARS’ OFFERS GLIMPSE INTO PATHFINDER’S LIFE

By Kate Kellogg t might as well have been Otto Mears in the flesh who appeared at the Ouray Community Center for the OCHS 2011 Vignettes of History on August 26. Speaking haltingly with a Russian accent, Steve Lee captivated the audience with his impersonation of Otto Mears, Pathfinder of the San Juans. Lee, as Mears, reminisced about the highlights of his multi-faceted life, from his early experiences as a young immigrant, to his final years as a retired widower in Pasadena, California. He also conveyed Mears’ human side---his many personal quirks and eccentricities. For example, who knew that the great pathfinder preferred his ice cream topped with Roquefort cheese? Lee, a retired teacher and history buff, brought his one-man act from Denver for the fundraising event, which was a huge success. More than 120 people attended the dinner and show, including, the real Otto Mears’ great-granddaughter, Julia Berens, of Rifle, CO. OCHS staff, volunteers and board members created Otto Mears-themed table arrangements and 16 area businesses and individuals contributed sponsorships. Colby’s Corner, of Ridgway, catered the prime rib dinner, which received rave reviews. “Otto Mears” addressed the audience from a set designed to represent the Maryland Hotel in Pasadena where he spent his retirement in the late 1920s. The diminutive road and railroad builder cut a dapper figure in his formal suit, pinstriped vest and bowler hat. Characteristic of an old-timer, his recounting of events was not entirely chronological but always colorful. s the “unlucky13th child” in his Russian family, Mears was shipped to the United States at the age of nine or ten to live with relatives. His work for a shopkeeper helped him learn to speak, read and write English. In California and Nevada, he tried his hand at gold prospecting. “I learned that if you want to make money in mining, don’t be a miner,” he said. At age 20, he became a U.S. citizen so he could vote for Abraham Lincoln for president. His citizenship earned him the right to serve in the Union Army during

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keep them close,” said Mears. He referred many times to his beloved late wife, Mary. “She had life in her,” he said. The couple were married for 54 years. They experienced family tragedy when their grown daughter, Laura, died of a brain tumor in 1915. “Mary was never the same after that,” he said, “and neither was I.” hey spent their last years together in California, where Mary became “a health fanatic.” Otto admitted to a little innocent deception on that subject. “Her idea of a meal was a little salad and a few nuts. After dinner, I might take a walk to a restaurant across the street and have steak or lobster. My favorite desert was two scoops of vanilla ice cream sprinkled with Roquefort cheese. Once, Mary found some ice cream on my tie. She changed it and never said anything.” Although he said a poker game was calling his name, Mears graciously answered questions from the audience. Asked about his role as Indian Commissioner for the Ute Indians, he admitted it was a touchy subject. Mears was charged with bribery when he offered each Ute $2 (from his own pocket) to sign the 1880 treaty that eventually removed them to Utah. Otto’s justification: “Better to for them to have some money in hand than be promised something from Washington that would never come. It was financial inducement---not bribery.” (Secretary of the Interior Samuel Kirkwood dismissed the charges and saw that Mears was reimbursed for his expenditure.) tto admitted to being involved in politics mainly to make sure the state legislature didn’t pass any regulations that would negatively impact his business interests. He offered a humorous definition of politics by deconstructing the word. “Poli means many,” he said. “And a tic is a bloodsucker.” Steve Lee received a standing ovation for his monologue. Besides his impersonations of historical figures, he is Operations Manager of the Rio Golden Railroad at Heritage Square in Golden, CO and heads up Educational Programming for the Colorado Railroad Museum.

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4Steve Lee with Julia Berens, Otto Mears’ great-granddaughter, and her husband, Rex Berens, of Rifle, Colo. Courtesy photo by Samantha Wright

the Civil War. As a soldier, he “learned to play poker and swear” and served under Kit Carson in New Mexico. After the war ended, Mears became a shopkeeper and wheat farmer in the San Luis Valley of Colorado. While carrying wheat across the Poncha Pass to sell at a mill in Nathrop, he drove his wagon too fast and spilled all his grain. Who should ride by but William Gilpin, then territorial governor of Colorado. Gilpin halfseriously advised Mears to build a real road across the pass. “When he said, ‘build a toll road that you could charge money for,’ that got my attention,” said Mears. he Poncha Pass road was Mears’ first toll road. He went on to build many others including the one between Silverton and Ouray. The toll gate was strategically placed at precipitous Bear Creek Falls. Mears charged $1.50 - $5.00 to pass, depending on the number of wagons, horses and stock. One rancher resisted paying the toll, Mears remembered. “I looked at the cliffs above us and below and said, ‘pay me or find your own way through.’ He paid the toll.” Mears described how the workers blasted out rock on Red Mountain Pass to build what is now the Million Dollar Highway. “They would lower a man down and he would drill holes in the rock

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ac cl a i m e d H is t or ic al

and put in black powder and a fuse. Then they would pull the driller up---fast. God took care of the leftover rock.” lways the entrepreneur, Mears became a mail contractor. Mail was delivered by dog sled and on skis. When one of his carriers refused to work in the winter, Mears strapped the mail pouch to his own back. On the way to Ouray, he waded through the Lake Fork of the Gunnison River. “About the time I got to Ouray, I couldn’t feel my feet,” he said. Fortunately, Mears saved both his feet and, for a time, the mail contract. The Denver & Rio Grande Railroad made what Mears’ considered an unsatisfactory offer to buy his toll road. So Mears decided to build four railroads through the San Juans himself. His favorite was the Rio Grande Southern--“a damn good railroad”---which ran from Dallas (later Ridgway) to Durango. Many folks doubted the feasibility of constructing the narrow gauge Silverton Railroad, due to the route’s steep grades and sharp curves. Mears’ ingenuity and gift for finding talented people proved them wrong. His chief engineer Charles Gibbs conceived of the Corkscrew Gulch turntable at a point on the mainline that was too tight for a standard curve. “The secret to success is to find people who are passionate about what they’re doing and

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