Lipids & Cosmetics instructions for preparation of abstract Spirulina platensis green lipid extracts and their vectorization for cosmetic use. L. Boudesocque-Delaye1, R. Boutin1,2, N. Renaudeau3, M. Girardot3, M. Pinault4, S Chevalier4, C. Imbert3, B. Clément-Larosière5, C. Enguehard-Gueiffier4, E. Munnier2. 1 EA SIMBA, UFR Sciences Pharmaceutiques, Université de Tours, 31 avenue Monge 37200 Tours, France 2 EA 6295 NMNS, UFR Sciences Pharmaceutiques, Université de Tours, 31 avenue Monge, 37200 Tours, France 3 UMR CNRS 7267, Laboratoire EBI, Equipe MDE Université de Poitiers, 86073, Poitiers, France 4 UMR INSERM 1069 N2C, UFR Sciences Pharmaceutiques, Université de Tours,10 boulevard Tonnellé, 37032 Tours Cedex, France 5 Société Denitral, Groupe COOPERL, 22400 Lamballe, France *Corresponding author e-mail:
[email protected]
Free fatty acid (FFA) are antimicrobial agents which are naturally occurring on skin. They are in charge of the microbiota regulation and exhibit wide antimicrobial spectrum (antibacterial, antifungal…) depending on carbon chain length and number of double bonds. FFA are well known metabolites authorized in cosmetic field. Two major factors limit the development of FFA as antimicrobial cosmetic ingredient: the toxicity of solvents used for their extraction and their low selectivity; and the FFA sensitivity to oxidation, especially considering polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA). Microalgal biomass represent a natural renewable source of FFA especially of PUFA. Long chain PUFA were found in higher rates, especially 6 or 3, depending on the microalgae [1]. Among all microalgae, Spirulina platensis, a blue cyanobacteria, is a good model, thanks to its richness in FFA and its easy cultivation. Lipophilic pigments, such as chlorophylls and carotenoids, were also found in microalgae and were usually co-extracted with lipids. In order to perform a green and selective extraction of microalgal FFA, four solvents and three extraction conditions were screened. Lipid and pigment amounts, combined with FFA profile were used to select the optimal conditions: 30 minutes of ultrasonic extraction using EtOAc or dimethylcarbonate (DMC) as extraction solvent. A vectorization using a nanocarriers was performed. EtOAc and DMC extracts were encapsulated using two types of lipid-based sub-micrometric encapsulation systems: lipid nanocapsules (LNC) [2] and alginate-based nanocarriers (ANC) [3]. Preliminary data did not show any degradation of lipid extracts during encapsulation process. Anti-biofilm activity of those extracts alone or encapsulated in nanocarriers was investigates against Candida albicans and gave promising results.
[1] Desbois AP and Smith VJ, Appl. Microbiol. Biotechnol. (2010) 85 : 1629-1642 [2] Nguyen H. T. P, Soucé. M., Perse X., Vial F., Perrier T., Yvergnaux F., Chourpa I. and Munnier E., Int J Cosm Sci (2017) 39 : 450–456 [3] Nguyen H T P, Munnier E, Souce M, Perse X, David S, Bonnier F, Vial F, Yvergnaux F, Perrier T, Cohen-Jonathan S, Nanotechnology (2015) 26: 255101
