thread samples, and I am like a kid in a candy store. There is, however, more to
picking the right embroidery thread than just picking the color. Thread choice is.
Machine Embroidery Thread Written by JoAnne of Garden Of Daisies
Give me an embroidery color card, especially one with real thread samples, and I am like a kid in a candy store. There is, however, more to picking the right embroidery thread than just picking the color. Thread choice is so important to the success of any machine embroidery project that familiarity with all of the choices available is essential. Knowing what to use when will prevent wasted time and supplies and ensure successful results. The main factors to consider when choosing thread are: thread weight thread fiber content project fabric care project end use
Thread Weight Embroidery thread comes in different sizes, or diameters, which is referred to as its “weight”. The lower the number, the thicker the thread; the higher the number, the thinner, or ‘finer’ the thread. The standard weight for embroidery is 40 weight. To give you a frame of reference, most general, all-purpose sewing thread is 50 weight. For embroidery thread, the most common size available is 40 weight. Most commercially-produced embroidery designs are digitized with this weight in mind. If a design is run with a thicker or thinner thread, adjustments to its density and details might have to be made. Other weights that are less common but still readily available are 30 and 35 weight threads. They are thicker than 40 weight and can give a ‘fuller’ appearance to the overall design. They are great for free-standing lace designs. They might be too thick, however, for designs with already-dense fills or tiny details.
Other available weights include 12 weight, which is almost yarn-like in appearance. 50, 60 and even 80 weight threads are finer and work well for delicate heirloom-type designs. As with any type of sewing or embroidery, proper needle selection is important. Match needle size to project fabric and thread used. A 30 weight, for example, would benefit from using a 14/90 embroidery or topstitching needle to accommodate its thickness.
Thread Fiber Content The most common fibers used in creating machine embroidery thread are polyester and rayon. Cotton thread is available, as are a number of ‘specialty’ threads. Polyester thread is strong and durable and colors stay bright and vibrant even after repeated washing. It is generally colorfast to bleach and sunlight, making it a great choice for projects that are laundered often. Rayon thread is shiny and a bit softer than polyester. It is composed of cellulose fibers allowing it to easily accept dyes. The colors are rich and the thread has a silk-like sheen. Rayon thread is not as color-fast as polyester, with sunlight and bleach being the top two offenders. Cotton thread is available and has a matte finish. It can mimic vintage hand-work and is great for heirloom-style projects. Cotton thread when used as a top thread and in the bobbin makes beautiful free-standing lace. Some of the specialty threads available are:
Variegated o Polyester, rayon and cotton threads can sometimes be found in variegated, ‘twisted’ or other multi-color varieties. Some are randomly variegated, adding colorful texture to your overall design. Some are rhythmically variegated, with can give a moiré (wave-like) or striped effect to your project. Metallic o Metallic threads are produced by twisting metallic fibers together, winding them around an inner core. They can also be cut as a continuous metal ‘sliver’ filament. They require a lowered tension setting and slower sewing speed to reduce stretching and breakage. A metallic or topstitching needle offers a slightly larger eye to accommodate this textured thread. Metallic threads generally spool off better from a
vertical spool pin. Horizontal delivery can lead to twists and kinks in the thread. Holographic o Holographic thread is a smooth, continuous plastic ‘sliver’ coated with a metallic finish. Again, a lowered tension and slower speed will prevent stretching, which can lead to puckering in the finished project. Like metallics above, vertical spool pins produce better results when using this thread. Glow-in-the-Dark & Solar-Reactive o Glow-in-the-dark thread offers an added design dimension to projects. It ‘re-charges’ by absorbing light and gives off a fun and intriguing glow when placed in the dark. Solar-reactive threads change color when placed in direct sunlight and can be an exciting design element on children’s clothing. Miscellaneous o Some other available threads include silk, wool-effect, mattefinish and others. Choosing a needle for specialty threads always requires finding a balance between the size of the needle itself and the size of its eye. The former must be compatible with the project fabric while the latter must accommodate the thread itself. Test stitching is always recommended before starting any project.
You can be sure textile technology will produce more interesting and creative thread varieties in the future. Be sure to test-stitch designs before running them on your actual project to fine-tune the handling of the particular thread you choose.
Bobbin Thread Bobbin thread is an important component of successful embroidery. It is light and strong so that it is durable without adding bulk to a design. (Most of what you will find is 60 weight.) It is usually a polyester filament and will come either on a spool or on pre-wound plastic or cardboard bobbins. If on a spool, wind it onto your own machine-specific bobbins. Before attempting to use pre-wound bobbins, check your machine manual to make sure they are compatible. Some homegrade machines require either a designated bobbin case or an adapter ‘pin’ to make a pre-wound fit the bobbin case properly. Embroidery thread can be wound onto an empty bobbin if the wrong side of the work will be visible. Some machines are a bit ‘fussy’ about this, however, so be sure to run a test stitch-out when attempting this.
Needle Choice
There is a wide range of needles available that are appropriate for embroidery use. Like in sewing, you need to consider your project fabric and thread choice when choosing the size and type of needle. Most vendors offer an ‘embroidery’ needle. These have a sharp point, a larger eye and a deep scarf (groove down the length of the needle that the thread runs through). This is a good place to start when doing your test stitching. There are needles made for special applications, such as ‘metallic’, ‘topstitch’ and ‘wing’ that might be beneficial when using textured or specialized threads. Keeping a notebook of what works with what is a great way to be ahead of the game when starting a new project.
Care of Thread Light, dust and moisture can all affect the shelf life of thread. Be sure to keep your thread supply protected from those elements that can lead to its deterioration or ‘failure’.
Spools and Cones Depending on the company, embroidery thread comes on a variety of spools and cones. Some are spiral wound; some are cross-wound. Some feed better from a horizontal spool pin while others feed better from a vertical one. You might find that your particular machine ‘prefers’ one to the other. Sizes can vary from small 250-yard spools up to 5500-yard cones. Cones that are too big for a machine’s spool pin can be seated on a spool stand next to the machine.
Color Choices and Conversion All embroidery thread companies offer color charts. They can be printed paper, online renderings or folders with actual thread samples. Some vendors offer cross-referenced lists of colors similar to those offered by other companies. Some companies offer lists of their closest Pantone® color matches. Many embroidery editing/managing/digitizing software programs offer company-specific thread charts to aid in ‘colorizing’ a design. Using these company-specific thread charts allows you to see what your design will look like when actually stitched out on your project.
Quality As with any consumer product, there is a wide range of ‘quality’ when it comes to embroidery thread. What may appear to be a real ‘deal’, may turn out to be a real headache. Before succumbing to the tempting desire to buy a complete collection – they look so darn pretty sitting there in all of their rainbow-ordered splendor – buy just a few spools or cones from different manufacturers and check them out by test-stitching on your own equipment. Ask me how I know that this is a good thing to do.
QUICK GUIDE
Thread Type Polyester
Rayon
Metallics
Cotton
Specialty & Miscellaneous
Considerations Color-fast, can withstand bleaching Ideal for frequently-laundered items Most commonly used weight: 40 weight Other available weights: 30, 60 Use an embroidery needle matched to project fabric Softer than polyester, cannot withstand bleach Smooth running, strong Most commonly used weight: 40 weight Use 60 weight for fine details & small lettering Other available weights: 12, 30, 35, 60 Use an embroidery needle matched to project fabric Available in 15, 20, 35, 40, 50 weight Use a metallic needle and a decreased sewing speed to avoid stretching and breakage A topstitch needle can be used with textured metallics as the larger eye can allow it to run more smoothly Soft sheen, can offer an “heirloom” look and mimic handwork Available in 30, 50 & 100 weight Use an embroidery needle matched to project fabric When using unusual threads, check for manufacturer’s recommendations for needle type and size, tension setting adjustments and any special considerations for that particular thread. Most commercially available designs are digitized for 40 weight thread. Changing thread weight can change appearance for design. Densities can sometimes be adjusted to accommodate change. Always run a test stitch-out before running design on project fabric.
