philadelphia, pa - Les Dames d'Escoffier International

WINTER

2010

Conference Review

2009 LDEI Annual Conference

PHILADELPHIA, PA

IN THIS ISSUE

FEAT U RES

5 2009

7 Keynote 8-9

Annual Conference in Philadelphia Presentations

Partner’s Lunch

10-11 Seminars

12 Enrichment

13 Trinity

Events

Home Reception

14-15 Chapter

Photos

16-17 Anniversaries

and the Celebratory Big Cake

20-21 Grande

Dame Award Dinner

D EPA RTMENTS

3 President’s

Message

22-25

Chapter News 26-29 Member Milestones

30

Submission Guidelines

On the Cover:

Philadelphia Chapter Photo –Donna Conner Philadelphia Photos – Lori Willis and Hayley Matson-Mathes

WINTER•2 O 1 0

Embracing the Past for a Promising Future When the first LDEI conference met in Philadelphia in 1988, attendees represented five existing chapters. It was history in the making! Dames from 27 chapters returned to the historic city for the 22nd annual gathering in October 2009. Thoughts, words and accomplishments from our past shaped the present; each new moment brings creative opportunities for future growth. Conference is a time to network; note the smiling faces in the photos. When Dames connect, it creates a ripple of energy that can result in a tidal wave of positive change. The photographs capture a moment in time but also help convey the stories. Special thanks to conference photographers who assisted me: Hayley MatsonMathes (Hawaii) and her husband Mike, Lori Willis (St. Louis), CiCi Williamson (D.C.), and Beth Allen (New York). It is a privilege to serve as Quarterly editor; with this issue, I begin a second term. Keeping you informed is a priority for the new Editorial Board: Advisor and LDEI 1st V.P. Sandy Hu (San Francisco), Advisor CiCi Williamson (D.C.), Chandra Ram (Chicago), Jane Mendelson (D.C.), Zola Nichols (Palm Springs) and Lori Willis (St. Paul). We enthusiastically welcome Mudd Graphic Design Resources, our new Quarterly design team. “Do well by doing good,” advised Ben Franklin, one of America’s most innovative Founding Fathers. He believed real success was measured by what one could give back to society so he “planted seeds” for the future by helping those around him. In this spirit, LDEI chapters impact their communities in a positive way through education, advocacy and philanthropy. Even better, they have fun while doing it.

Susan Fuller Slack, Editor

Teresa J. Farney C.H.E., C.C.P.

SUSAN FULLER SLACK, C.C.P.

Dorothy R. Koteski

Kathy Gottsacker

Sandra Matsukawa Hu

Marie G. Kelley

Mary S. Moore

Aliza Miriam Green

Food Editor The Gazette 7220 Delmonico Drive Colorado Springs, CO 80919 (719) 636-0271 (w) [email protected]

Principal Sandy Hu Food Marketing LLC 380 Roosevelt Way San Francisco, CA 94114 (415) 626-1765 (w) [email protected]

Food Writer/Culinary Educator Culinary Bouquets 116 Hurlingham Drive Columbia, SC 29223 (803) 736-7103 (w) [email protected]

President/Owner Kelley Productions International 2047 Caminito Capa La Jolla, CA 92037 (858) 456-6609 (w) [email protected]

Professor, Allied Health Department Community College of Philadelphia 27 Cooper Run Drive Cherry Hill, NJ 08003-2244 (856) 489-0052 (h) [email protected] Founder/CEO The Cook’s Warehouse 1095 Zonolite Road NE, Suite 104 Atlanta, GA 30306 (404) 492-9018 (w) [email protected]

Retail/Education/Television/Food Writer Schnuck Markets 12550 Falling Leaves Court St. Louis, MO 63141 (314) 994-2266 (w) [email protected] Chef/Author/Consultant 640 Green Briar Road Elkins Park, PA 19027 (215) 635-0651 (w) [email protected]

Mary Ellen Griffin Partner Continental Consulting Group 320 Strawberry Hill Ave., #58 Stamford, CT 06902 (203) 975 7610 (w) [email protected]

Suzanne J. Brown

Principal Brown Marketing Communications, LLC 5415 Northland Drive NE, #203 Atlanta, GA 30342 (770) 377-3488 (c) [email protected]

Greg Jewell

President AEC Management Resources P.O. Box 4961 Louisville, KY 40204 (502) 456-1851 x1 [email protected]

Staying Ahead of the Curve Through LDEI Dear Dames,

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or four days at the Sofitel Philadelphia hotel, the City of Brotherly Love became the City of Sisterly Love during the Les Dames d’Escoffier International annual conference in October. Conference co-chairs, Dottie Koteski and Anita Pignatoro and their committee, promised a conference that would inspire and energize, and they delivered. We enjoyed a bounty of rich, educational programs along with a diverse selection of historic tours. Speakers were exceptional starting with the keynote talk by Marion Nestle, Ph.D. who spoke about the new food revolution and events leading to the current push for a healthier and more sustainable food system. Her presentation was followed by an inspiring talk by Michael Whiteman, considered this country’s leading food and restaurant consultant. His talk “Preparing for Change” gave us a world view of an ever-changing food industry. Those talks revved us up for a series of seminars the next two days. You’ll find reviews about these seminars in the following pages. If you were not able to attend the meeting in Philly, you can visit ldei.org, log on at the Member login, click on Resources, and find all of these presentations as podcasts. Download the podcast of your choice to enjoy on your next trans-Atlantic flight. Also, please visit our Web site at www.ldei.org/ and read about this year’s Grande Dame Award recipient, Shirley Corriher (Atlanta) in the archived Spring Quarterly. She is a noted food scientist, culinary authority, chef, cookbook author, and problem solver. Plus she is one funny lady. I’ve heard it time again: When you attend the annual conference, “you get it” – meaning, you get what an extraordinary group of women comprise Les Dames d’Escoffier International. We truly are a sisterhood. As you glance through this issue of the Quarterly, I hope you will get a sense of the value that attending the annual conference brings to you professionally and personally. And if you take time to listen to the podcasts, you may be inspired to attend next year’s conference, Oct. 21 to 24 at the Hyatt Grand Champions Resort in Palm Springs, California.

Directors at Large Affectionately known as DALs, The Directors at Large hold one of the most important positions on the Board of Directors. Each chapter president is assigned to a DAL who will conduct six conference calls with chapter leadership during the year. These calls are important and are not optional. They are a way to build relationships among chapters and, more importantly the way of keeping strong communications open with the LDEI Board. Dates for all calls are scheduled. The schedule is available online at our Web site. If a chapter president is not available for the call, presidents, please, assign another member of your Board to dial in. I will be dialing in to as many of the calls this year as possible. Teresa Farney (Colorado)

F A L L Q u arterly 2 O O 9

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Meet the LDEI Staff

COOKING WITH LES DAMES D’ESCOFFIER Greg Jewell

LDEI Executive Director

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Nick Vaccaro Director of Projects

s LDEI grows, so does the staff necessary to handle all of the organization’s membership and business needs. Here is a snapshot of the staff members and their responsibilities for LDEI: Greg Jewell has been LDEI’s executive director since November, 2001. He is the president of AEC Management Resources, the management company of record for LDEI. His company is responsible for the management of four non-profit associations and one foundation. To learn more about the company, visit www.aecmanagement.com. Greg works with the LDEI board on all strategic issues and serves as a resource for the chapter presidents on all issues pertinent to running an organization. He also handles conference planning, the web site for both LDEI and Green Tables, and a host of other

by Marcella Rosene (Seattle)

Amy West

Data Input Specialist

responsibilities. Nick Vaccaro recently joined AEC Management and will be working with LDEI on its annual conference. Nick is a 15-year veteran of the association management industry and recently ended a seven year run as an independent restaurant owner in Chattanooga, TN. He currently serves as the executive director of the Meeting Professionals International Tennessee Chapter and the Kentucky State Parks Foundation. Amy West has served as the LDEI data specialist since 2002. Prior to joining the AEC team, she served as the data input specialist for the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Amy handles all of the roster update information, preparing the data for printing in the membership directory and processing conference registrations.

NYU Fales Library & LDNY Honor Grande Dame Carol Brock by Beth Allen (New York) n the beautiful fall evening of October 21, 2009, in the elegant New York University Penthouse on Washington Square in Manhattan, 80 Dames and guests joined to honor Grande Dame Carol Brock. The Champagne Reception was being held in celebration of the creation of the Les Dames d’Escoffier Carol Brock New Acquisitions Program at the esteemed Fales Library at New York University. The breathtaking 360-degree view of Manhattan from the wrap-around terrace set the tone for the grand evening ahead. President Deborah Mintcheff, Mistress of Ceremonies for the event, set the stage by describing the exciting new partnership between Fales Library and Les Dames New York, worked on over the past nine months. She and Dean Mandel of NYU presented Carol with a beautiful framed certificate in her honor. Carol Mandel, dean of the Division of Libraries at New York University, shared the University’s gratitude and expressed the significant impact that 4

Elena Olivo, Photographer

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Les Dames d’Escoffier is making to help Fales Library become one of the most important cookbook collections in the country. Marvin Taylor, Director of Fales Library and Special Collections, explained how this partnership is supporting his goal toward obtaining some key cookbook treasures and expanding the current collection of over 22,000 titles. He took us through, with great enthusiasm, the exciting history of the Fales collection during the past seven years. Next to speak: Arthur Schwartz, affectionately known as “The Schwartz Who Ate New York,” renowned cookbook author, food critic and radio personality. He shared humorous happenings and priceless memories of Carol Brock, during the time he was her boss and friend at the New

York Daily News. The evening’s formal program ended on an exciting note: the opportunity for Carol Brock to describe how she founded the first professional organization for women in wine, food and hospitality with fifty women in 1976. More champagne toasting followed, allowing all guests to share in Carol’s celebratory evening. Thanks to the LDNY Fales Committee for launching this initiative: Chair Rozanne Gold, President Deborah Mintcheff and Secretary Gale Steves— plus New York Dames, Dames from other chapters, and the chapters who have contributed toward our $50,000 goal. Special thanks Liz Neumark, Ariane Daguin and Mary Cleaver who contributed to this memorable reception.

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ow gratifying…to thumb through Cooking With Les Dames d’Escoffier and discover recipe after mouthwatering recipe from this distinguished group of professional women. Dallas Morning News And so, for over a year, publications around the country have been singing the praises of COOKING WITH LES DAMES D’ESCOFFIER. Just shy of 10,000 copies have been sold and it’s been gratifying to hear LDEI linked with words like “impeccable source,” “real food professional,” “mouthwatering recipes,” and “a must-have.” Surely this means that more people know about us than did a year ago. And with about a third of the sales being to LDEI chapters, estimates are that book revenues have put roughly $50,000 into chapter coffers. We’ve had the thrill and disappointment of being on numerous short lists: for GOURMET’S monthly cookbook pick; for a feature on the TODAY SHOW; for the IACP AWARD FOR BEST ANTHOLOGY (we were one of the three finalists, but alas, did not win). A big coup was being included in THE GOOD COOK catalogue and website under the headline: “A Culinary Dream Team: This cookbook is like getting into the kitchen with the greatest cooking teachers of all time.” All of us involved in managing the project take pride in its success, but we also know the book’s continued effectiveness depends upon each individual Dame who graciously and generously hauls cases of books near and far and who continues to sing of its virtues. Alice Gautsch Foreman (Seattle) suggests chapters consider donating several cookbooks to their local library system. She says, “It’s a positive opportunity for exposure. Every placement helps accomplish the original goal: to tell the world about Les Dames d’ Escoffier and the many good things for which we stand.“

Les Dames d’Escoffier International

LDEI TRAIN PULLS INTO

PHILADELPHIA by Suzanne Brown, Immediate Past President, LDEI

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he Reading Railroad is a property in the game of Monopoly, and that’s just what Les Dames had at the Philadelphia Conference – a monopoly on energy and inspiration. Although the real Reading Railroad no longer exists, the Reading Terminal Market lives on and represents the rich culture and international flavor Dames experienced in the City of Brotherly Love. Dames who toured the Market, or heard Aliza Green’s (Philadelphia) spice and herb presentation, can attest to the multi-cultural atmosphere found in this historic building. As anyone knows, a train needs engineers, and our Philadelphia Conference Co-Chairs Dottie Koteski and Anita Pignataro were the engineers who led the well-organized Philadelphia “crew.” The conference committee worked throughout the year to successfully orchestrate and (L-R) Conference Co-Chairs: Dottie Koteski implement the largest attended conference in LDEI history. and Anita Pignataro Conductors on the LDEI train were sub-committee Co-Chairs Eileen Talanian and Jennifer Linder McGlinn, Registration and Hospitality; Louise Ceccarelli and Deanna Segrave-Daly, Tours and Optional Events. Dining car managers were Lynn Buono and Vicky Pohl, Meal Functions and Gala Dinner; Logistics managers were Aliza Green and Nancy Miller who were in charge of Program Planning; Switch managers were Sandy Dych and Manette Richardson who coordinated public relations, photography, product tracking and the dine-arounds. Passengers were wined, dined and educated. Philadelphia Dames Claire Boasi and Julie Dannenbaum hosted a cocktail reception for presidents of chapters, past presidents of LDEI, and Board of Directors. Held in Julie’s historic townhome near Rittenhouse Square, Dames experienced colonial architecture appointed with timeless antiques while savoring delicacies from Julie’s cookbook. Later, during the conference, Claire Boasi commented about the turn-out this year. “These are difficult times financially and work wise for everyone. I was so proud that so many of our members had the confidence in themselves to take the time and spend the money to attend the conference. This shows a level of maturity and respect that our members have developed over the years.” While there were a lot of new highlights featured in this conference, some of the traditional reasons for attending are a continuum. Perhaps Peg Rahn (LA/Orange Co.) said it best, “Conference gives us the best opportunity to network and share chapter strengths and weaknesses. It was fun seeing old friends and meeting new ones. We really got a lot of bang for the buck.”

Les Dames d ’Es co ffier’s CO RN UCO PIA, 2009 by Suzanne DeGalan (San Francisco)

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rom October 1 through October 31, 2009, Les Dames d’Escoffier hosted its third online auction, Cornucopia 2009. We kicked off the auction during our national conference in Philadelphia from October 1 to 4. Dames generously donated dozens of wonderful items through their own businesses, as well as soliciting donations from colleagues and friends. This year, Cornucopia 2009 raised more than $16,000. For those of you who donated items or bid on gifts, your participation was an invaluable part of LDEI’s fundraising efforts. Many, many thanks for your generosity, creativity and service to LDEI. W II N NT T EE R R Q QU U AA R RT T EE R R LLYY 22 00 11 00 W

Suzanne DeGalan

55

Susan Slack

Board of Director’s Dinner & Meeting hosted by Past President Suzanne Brown Clockwise from top left: Outgoing board members Alice Gautsch Foreman and Wendy Taylor. Executive Director Greg Jewell shows off the latest business tools - a gift from Past President Suzanne Brown. Check out his shiny new whistle and cap with the logo, Chief Cat Herder, LDEI. Outgoing board members Katherine Newell Smith and Zola Nichols. Beef entree at the board dinner. (L-R): Teresa Farney, Sandy Hu, Toria Emas, Zola Nichols and Marie Kelley. Dinner guest Dianne Hogerty. Outgoing-incoming board includes: Aliza Green, Sandy Hu, Alice Gautsch Foreman, Mary Ellen Griffin and Kathy Gottsacker. Dinner guests LDEI Founder Carol Brock and Past President Dolores Snyder. Teresa Farney presents a farewell gift to outgoing President, Suzanne Brown at the Board of Director’s Meeting. Alice Gautsch Foreman and Suzanne Brown at the Board of Director’s Dinner. Dessert trio at the board dinner. Not pictured: Mary Moore, Dottie Kosenski and Susan Slack.

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The Opening Breakfast on Friday, October 2, featured an inspiring keynote speech by New Marion Nestle, Ph.D., followed by an entertaining and informative speech by

Keynote P

York Dame, Dr.

international trend expert, Michael Whiteman. They provided the intellectual nourishment that set the tone for the day’s seminars,

enrichment sessions and networking activities.

W I N T E R Q U A RT E R LY 2 0 1 0

“Today’s Food Revolution: Changing the Way We Cook and Eat from Farm to Table” by Gail Forman (Washington D.C.)

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eft wing, right wing, everyone is talking about food and food policy; even the food industry is gripped by concerns about obesity and chronic disease risks. All this adds up to a “food revolution,” said keynote speaker Marion Nestle, whose own main interests are public health, obesity, and food safety. Nestle suggests two approaches to obesity management: personal responsibility and corporate responsibility. We live in a society in which food companies, health professionals, and, sometimes, government, encourage people to eat more, she said. The ubiquity and proximity of food and the skewed agriculture subsidy system have resulted in people eating more junk food and larger portions. In our “gorge yourself environment,” where there has been a rise from 3,200 to 4,000 available calories per capita per day (twice the average need), people must learn to eat better and to exercise portion control. And the Wall Street “shareholder value movement,” which since the 1980s has required food companies to grow their profits, also needs to be changed. Food companies have responded by creating functional foods (e.g. adding immunity boosters), making health claims, printing endorsements, and marketing directly to children. However, if nutritionists were to set up nutrition criteria, a lot of foods wouldn’t qualify, Nestle said. Food safety has also become a burning issue—a wake-up call to the industry. Nestle’s solution: a combined FDA/USDA single food safety agency. On the local level, she suggested, people can become involved, for example, by improving school lunches and teaching food service personnel how to cook, prohibiting vending machines in schools, and establishing student gardens; by cooking at home from scratch; and by making better food choices.

“After the Downturn Turns Around: Preparing for Change” by Gail Forman

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ichael Whiteman, second keynote speaker, gave an amusing but serious talk about what the new consumer will look like when the good times return. People will have learned a new set of priorities, he said, and to be distinctive and successful restaurants will have to respond to the changes. They will need to focus on psychology and new consumer concerns such as economic survival, the desire for intimacy and friendship, and the “feeding” of knowledge and emotions. The key concepts will be handmade, neighborhood, local, authentic, real, comfort, and safety. Because sharing food has emotional resonance, restaurants will be re-sizing their plates, either with small plates or large, family-style platters. “Made-by-hand” foods respond to consumers’ desire to reconnect with the food past and the rituals of dinner. Restaurants will sell consumers experience through both visual involvement and active participation and by tapping into memory via meals. Downscaling will also be important by featuring, for example, offal, upscale burgers (hamburgers and lamb, shrimp, and bulgogi burgers), or hot dogs. This tactic enables consumers not to feel deprived and helps curtail unsustainable spending. A new plating strategy will include smaller portion sizes and placing vegetables on top of the protein. Additionally, Whiteman predicted the death of “cool” restaurant design, an urban and community garden movement with major social ramifications, the growth of consumption of fresh food, and merchandising to the next generation. In conclusion, he said, post-recession restaurants must appeal to consumers’ real needs in order to be successful.

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MANY THANKS TO OUR PARTNERS … by Susan Weinstein, Director of Development, (S. Florida)

Cima Collina Winery

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hank You, Merci, Gracias, Danke, Grazie, Obrigado…Whatever the language is, we want to express our appreciation to our Partners. This year, we came together to celebrate and share the heritage of our organization. We traveled to Philadelphia, “The City of Brotherly Love”, to be inspired and energized. And also to meet, see and network with our supporters……our dedicated partners. On Friday, October 2nd we had the opportunity to personally taste and talk one-on-one with those brands that have invested time and resources to connect with us. We enjoyed sampling creative ways and flavors presented by The Beef Checkoff, Mahatma Rice, Fresh Gourmet Salad Toppings (Sugar Foods) and Cabot Creamery Cheeses. Special treats were offered from Peter’s Chocolate, Häagen-Dazs and Kikkoman. We took pleasure in sipping extraordinary premium wines from the Wente Vineyards and the portfolio of DFV Wines; Gnarly Head, 337, Irony, Loredona, and Brazin. Unfortunately, Cima Collina was unable to be tasted due to a PABC issue, however, they were proud to showcase their winery. 360 Vodka returned to shake-up new flavors and recipes, which tickled many of our palates. Bartdorf & Bronson provided “Dancing Goats”; a blend offhand-crafted roasted coffee. And finally, All-Clad and Krups displayed their newest designs in culinary equipment. Our partnership program has grown throughout the years. Nevertheless, this year was most challenging as sponsorship and promotional budgets were slashed. We ask that you reach-out to their representatives throughout the year and invite them to participate on a local level. Embracing our partners and making their alliance fruitful is vital to the value of our LDEI “Program for Partners”. As accomplished women in culinary professions, it’s a win-win. And especially as culinary influencers, our partners can generate a world of opportunities for us too. A very special thanks to our committed partners that have returned; Wente Family Estates, DFV Wines, All-Clad, Krups, Sugar Foods, 360 Vodka, The Beef Checkoff and Peter’s Chocolate. We welcome Kikkoman, Häagen-Dazs, Cima Collina, Bartdorf & Bronson Coffee Roasters, Mahatma Rice, and Cabot Creamery to our roster of extraordinary brands/sponsors. And finally, to our “Saturday Supporter”, Strauss Veal….. Thank You! 8

Batdorf & Bronson

All-Clad/Krups

Top: Roy Chamberlin, husband of Dame Mary Chamberlin, represented winemaker Dame Annette Hoff and Cima Collina Winery, producer of fine California wines. Middle: During the conference, Dames enjoyed the Dancing Goats Coffee Blend, a dark, smooth, sweet signature coffee from Batdorf & Bronson Coffee Roasters. Bottom: Lisa Callaghan, Director of Culinary Relations with All-Clad/Krups, chats about the latest cookware with Dame Liesel Flashenberg.


athes

360 Vodka

Susan Slack

Hayley Matson-M

Häagen-Dazs

DFV Wines

The Beef Checkoff

Kikkoman USA Peter’s Chocolates Cabot Creamery

Sugar Foods Mahatma Rice

Top: Sandy Hu loves Häagen-Dazs ice cream. Everyone else at the conference did too. Middle: Dame Patricia Ward displays ice cream sandwiches made with Häagen-Dazs ice cream sandwiched between pairs of Brown Sugar Ice Box Cookies. Flavors of the day included Passion Fruit, Ginger and Vanilla Honey Bee. Patricia contributed the cookie recipe to the LDEI cookbook, COOKING WITH LES DAMES D’ESCOFFIER ( Jumbo Ice Cream Sandwiches with Fresh Raspberry Sauce....page 275) . Bottom: At the Mahatma Rice Station, Dames enjoyed several rice dishes including a creamy Jasmine Coconut Rice Pudding and Brown Rice Nut Salad.


Wente Family Estates

Top: Graham Kimura, the 360 Vodka Brand Ambassador, created a variety of amazing cocktails for the conference, like the Wasabitini, with spicy fresh wasabi.

Top: Holly Evans, Director of Public Relations, pours award-winning DFV Wines.

Middle: Amanda Frey offered Dames a variety of fine Peter’s Chocolates, which are made in the European tradition of quality, freshness and good taste.

Middle: Helen Roberts (in yellow), Marketing Director, Kikkoman USA, Inc., explains the advantages of Kikkoman soy sauce as a universal seasoning. In the background, Katherine Bertolani, Kikkoman Account Manager/Ketchum PR, chats with Dames.

Bottom(L-R): Lynn Hoopes and Dame Becky Minchew served the fabulous Wente Family Estates Premium Wines.

Bottom: Andrea Brule, Director of Product Management for Sugar Foods, offered a bountiful display of gourmet salad toppers.

Top: Beef -it’s what’s for lunch! Dame Michaele Musel of The Beef Checkoff served delicious faijitas with all the trimmings. Middle: Dames sampled a variety of delicious Cabot Creamery cheeses throughout the conference. Photo: Lori Willis. Bottom: Alice Gautsch Foreman offers samples of Cabot Creamery cheese.

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Susan Slack

Susan Slack Standing: Suzanne Brown. Seated (L-R): Dames Liesel Flashenberg, Margaret Kuo and Lourdes Castro

Low-Risk Entrepreneurship

Global Culinary Initiatives

Chris Hanks teaches the entrepreneurship curriculum at the Terry College of Business at the University of Georgia. He is Director of their Entrepreneurship Program, the only entrepreneurship program focused exclusively on the launch of successful ventures. He owns multiple businesses, including service, e-commerce, and publishing ventures. He earned a BBA in risk management from The University of Georgia and an MBA in finance from San Jose State University. Chris presented a well-received seminar on Low Risk Entrepreneurship in Troubled Times. You can listen to his seminar on a podcast at the LDEI website. ldei.org

By Braiden Rex-Johnson, Vice President, (Seattle Chapter)

Food 2020 – The Consumer as CEO Linda W. Eatherton is a partner and Director of Global Food & Nutrition Practice for Ketchum, a leading public relations firm. She graduated from the University of Missouri with a Bachelor of Journalism degree and is a member of PRSA, is president of the Society for Nutrition Education Foundation’s Board of Trustees. Linda discussed the chief food concerns of today’s consumers and how we can expect those concerns to change over the next decade? She revealed the findings of a ground-breaking survey from Ketchum Global Food & Nutrition Practice on what consumers want. Consumers in five countries took part in the survey: the U.S., the U.K., Germany, Argentina and China. Linda said,“ the consumer as CEO will be the driver for growth in all segments – food service; industrial food and ingredient sales; consumer commodities and branded food products. The question is whether you are prepared to sit in the front or back seat.” To find out more, a podcast of this seminar is available at the LDEI website. HYPERLINK “http://ldei.org/”ldei.org

Seminars 10

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rapt roomful of Dames listened as three of our own members discussed the creative ways they’ve used their cultural roots and business savvy to connect with people across the globe. Lourdes Castro (New York), a bilingual culinary expert of Cuban descent, has helped English-speaking people break through language barrier thanks to her recently published book, “Eat, Drink, Think in Spanish” (Ten Speed Press, 2009), a Spanish-English dictionary of culinary terms. Margaret Kuo (Philadelphia), who grew up in Taiwan and is the executive chef/owner of five Philadelphia-area restaurants, has incorporated Chinese and Japanese culinary traditions into her restaurants’ cooking classes, charitable events, and festivals. As president of Through the Kitchen Door International, Liesel Flashenberg (Washington, D.C.) has given new hope to thousands of low-income and recent-immigrant adults, women headsof-households, adolescents, and youth through culinary-training programs. Attendees were excited to learn that Global Initiatives is a new LDEI Standing Committee, another way our organization is branching out beyond borders and branding itself internationally.

Dennis van Engelsdorp

Colony Collapse Disorder in Bees by Janet Burgess

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very winter we are losing bees” according to conference speaker Dennis van Engelsdorp, Pennsylvania’s Acting State Apiarist. Why care? The world has had a rich association with bees for thousands of years. Cave paintings from 5,000 years ago show women collecting bees and honey. Before there was sugar there was only honey. Dennis said, “One out of every three bites of food we eat is directly or indirectly pollinated by honey bees.” Honey is also used for medicinal purposes in burn units because it contains moisture. Bees are very mobile. They live in a matriarchal society made up of worker bees and one queen. Bees leave the hive and return to jump around on their fellow bees to communicate. In recent years there have been losses up to 60% of bees who never returned to the hive. This phenomenon has occurred in Japan, Canada, EU and the United States and is called Colony Collapse Disorder. Trying to determine why this has happened has been difficult, since bees often relocate. One reason bees may die is that they get the flu. Other answers may involve pesticides and insecticides used near bee colonies. Scientists hope this trend will end and bees will thrive. Bees arrived with the colonists and are not native to the United States. Native Americans called them “White Man’s Fly.” Bees have compound eyes and lots of lenses. They love flowers, as the petals appear to them like landing pads. Truckloads of bees are moved across the country to pollinate. In California alone, 80% of the almond trees are pollinated by bees. Without bees there would be no almonds. One recommendation from Dennis was to plant more meadows instead of grass. You can also become a beekeeper and eat local honey, instead of sugar. Probably the most important thing to know if you want to get involved with bees is don’t bee keep in the nude!


CiCi Williamson (L-R): Lari Robling, Emma Weigley and Valerie Erwin

by CiCi Williamson (Washington D.C.)

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Geechee girl, a biographer, and a radio producer shared culinary histories spanning three centuries at the seminar “Inspirational Food and Culinary Histories.” Valerie Erwin, Owner of Geechee Girl Rice Café and a descendant of South Carolina Slaves related how rice became a staple and the cash crop of antebellum Low Country plantations. Valerie said that “Geechee is the name for the enslaved West African peoples who lived on the Sea Islands and coastal areas of the Carolinas, Georgia and Northern Florida. The Africans who were brought to South Carolina lived on West Africa’s rice coast and were expert in rice cultivation. Much of the success of the Sea Islands’ early rice industry can be attributed to a black rush basket called the fanner that was developed by the Geechee people. The fanner was used to toss (fan) threshed rice into the air to allow the wind to carry off the chaff.” www.geecheegirlricecafe.com Emma Weigley, a historian, researcher, and nutritionist and is the author of Sarah Tyson Rorer: The Nation’s Instructress in Dietetics and Cookery (1977). Emma told about this forward-thinking 19th century woman who was a columnist and co-owner of the Philadelphia magazine Table Talk. Rorer was also the founder (in 1884) of the Philadelphia Cooking School; and contributing editor to the Ladies’ Home Journal. Her work focused on the influence of food upon the body, especially upon the sick or malnourished, and she is considered to be America’s first dietician and influenced the field of hospital dietetics. Rorer authored numerous cookbooks and pamphlets but is best known for her collection Mrs. Rorer’s New Cook Book: A Manual of Housekeeping. Lari Robling, radio producer, researcher and author. Lari Robling, author of Endangered Recipes: Too Good to Be Forgotten, spoke about collecting endangered recipes and about World War II ration cooking. A regular contributor to the radio show “A Chef ’s Table,” she played some historic radio sound recordings including a Betty Crocker World War II clip. Lari believes that “the nostalgic memories created by food are, without a doubt, the most evocative and compelling of all.” Therefore, “all these recipes must be saved.” W I N T E R Q U A RT E R LY 2 0 1 0

Susan Slack

Inspirational Food and Culinary Histories

Seated (L-R): Green Tables panel Nancy Matheson-Burns, Dole & Bailey; Ann Karlen, Fair Food; Marilyn Anthony, Pa. Association for Sustainable Agriculture; Laura Sapienza-Grabski, Dole & Bailey and Brookview Farm. Standing behind: Moderator Carolyn Worthington, Chevelo Farm.

Dames Lead Food Systems Partnerships by Cynthia Nims (Seattle)

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oderator Carolyn Worthington, owner of Chevelo Farm in nearby Chester County, introduced this post-lunch audience to four Dames whom she described as among the “new pioneers” of sustainable, local food systems. The panel consisted of Marilyn Anthony (Southeast Regional Director of Pennsylvania Association for Sustainable Agriculture), Nancy Matheson-Burns (CEO of Dole & Bailey), Laura Sapienza-Grabski (Dole & Bailey and Brookview Farm) and Ann Karlen (Executive Director of Fair Food). Programs they champion include New England Family Farm (a consortium of local farms and artisanal producers) and Fair Food (supporting a humane, sustainable agriculture system in the region). Through their various enterprises, these inspiring, dynamic women help connect farmers to consumers and chefs; help farmers band together for greater marketing and distribution power; engage their communities to support local farmers and—overall—help protect the viability of running an independent farm today. They sent us off on a mission to consider the choices we make in our own daily lives and take whatever steps we can to increase support of those who work to bring wholesome, local foods to our tables.

Zola Nichols (Palm Springs) said the panel gave the listeners a whole new sense of what they, as women, could do to foster wholesome, locally grown and humanely raised food for our tables. “We Dames must be aware of the politics and economics of our food. It should be our mission to educate our chapters and communities to the importance of having a connection with our farmers and the food we serve. Much of the growth in farming is being fostered by women, like our Dames, who really care about standards and certification. As a result, we are providing the best food possible to an increasingly-aware buying public. This is a call to action! Lets make it happen in our communities. Be aware of what goes into your food and how it is prepared. Buy from your local farmer’s markets. Try to eat a more organic diet to eliminate preservatives. Support the principles of Green Tables and we will all be rewarded in the long run.” 11

The Art of Wine at the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts

Cooking with Uncommon Spices and Herbs

by Pat Ward (Philadelphia)

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by Sarah Graham (Charleston) liza (Al-eeza) Green is an acclaimed executive chef, prolific author (including The Field Guide to Herbs and Spices), QVC culinary commentator, culinary travel guide and ultimate cooking class teacher. Headset taped to her cheek and spatula in hand, Aliza was ready when the class streamed into La Cucina at The Reading Terminal Market. We were hardly in our seats before the imaginary spice train left the station and little did we, the unwitting passengers, realize what a great ride we were in for. We were whisked through the quaint suburbs of Mumbai, formerly home to employees of Britain’s East India Company, to introduce us to the Best East Indian Bottle Marsala, a recipe given to Aliza by a current resident and by which she structured the class. During the cooking class, Aliza guided, tempted and inspired us through the toasting, grinding, frying and tasting of 22 spices needed to create her favorite blend. She kept us on the edge of our seats for two hours with the

Susan Slack

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banter of cultural facts and tips on preparation and technique. So sure of her facts, so fond of her subject and so experienced as a chef, everything was organized down to the last detail. Each spice was cupped and labeled, foods plated and prepared to pass, utensils in place and a bevy of skilled assistants to keep things moving at a fun and furious pace. There were recipes for each prepared dish and detailed handouts describing each spice or flavoring agent. As we left with samples in hand or on fork we raved about the flavors of Australian lemon myrtle, masala on cauliflower and the fragrance of rosewater in the sesame cookies. The recipes are clear, uncomplicated and available on the LDEI website, as are the spice handouts. (www.ldei.com/)

o finer setting could be found than the exquisite Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts (PAFA) for a wine tasting. The Dames were welcomed by Judite Morais, Art Historian and Wine Event Director for PAFA, with a tour of several paintings that were paired with the wines. Shawn Dore, Wine Educator and Sommelier, AIWS/DWS, led the wine tasting. We tasted three California white wines from two LDEI partners—Loredona (DFV Wines) and Wente Wineries. We compared them with a Chardonnay from the Maconnais region of France. Lastly, we tasted four Pinot Noir wines from the Burgundy region. Shawn chose some vintages that retail up to $150/bottle and are in limited availability. Her expertise made this wine tasting a unique experience. Capital Wine & Spirits/The Charmer Sunbelt Group and PAFA sponsored the wine tasting.

TEA FROM A ZEN CUP by Susan Slack (Charleston)

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wenty Dames traveled to West Fairmount Park’s Horticultural Center to visit Shofuso (Pine Breeze Villa), a beautifully replicated upper-class, 17th century Japanese home. It was built in Japan in 1954 as an exhibit for the New York Museum of Modern Art; eventually, the structure found a permanent home in Philadelphia. Along the path to Shofuso’s teahouse, we admired the ornamental garden, the picturesque koi-filled pond and waterfall. Entering the serene world of the tea room, the sock-clad Dames settled comfortably on the floor of the 15-tatami-mat room. The open veranda provided a tranquil view, helping set the stage for our Zen experience. The ancient roots of Chanoyu (“hot water for tea”) lie in Zen Buddhism. The graceful, kinomo-clad tea host performed the ritual of boiling the water and making tea. It was soon evident the simple movements were carefully choreographed - designed to embrace the underlying principles of harmony, tranquility, purity and respect. There are many layers to the tea experience, spiritual as well as esthetic. Dames slowly sipped the astringent, frothy green tea (matcha) and nibbled on exquisite fresh tea sweets (namagashi). Courtesies were exchanged with the tea host as the handmade tea bowls and utensils were presented for closer inspection. The Japanese saying, Ichigo, Ichie, meaning “one meeting, one opportunity” best reflects the uniqueness of this special tea gathering.

Bartram’s Garden

by Susan Slack

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ENRICHMENT EVENTS 12

istoric Bartram’s Gardens is America’s oldest living botanical garden. The 45-acre, 18th century homestead is located on the Schuylkill River in Southwest Philadelphia. Astonishingly, the property remains nearly as it was 250 years ago, even though it is surrounded by Philadelphia’s urban bustle, Quaker John Bartram was inspired by a single daisy while plowing his fields and dedicated his life to exploring, collecting and understanding plants. Called “The greatest natural botanist in the world,” he introduced into cultivation more than 200 of our native American plants, vines and trees- the oldest specimens in America. Thomas Jefferson purchased Bartram’s plants for Monticello and the Continental Congress paid a visit to the gardens after adjourning a session. Bartram’s property includes the botanical garden, arboretum, parkland, meadow and a wetland. The stone house has been a National Historic Landmark since 1963. The Head Curator provided a private lecture on Quaker John Bartram and his amazing legacy to all Americans. Dame Rollie Blackwell (San Antonio) loved the historic visit and describing her experience, she said, “Fascinating and a good outdoor event. It was great to get out of the hotel; I could have stayed longer.” Les Dames d’Escoffier International

A Philadelphia “Trinity Home”

R e c eption

by Dottie Koteski (Philadelphia)

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ast presidents of Les Dames D’Escoffier, current LDEI Board Members and chapter presidents were treated to see one of traditional Philadelphia’s unique homes, while nibbling on hors d’oeuvres and Pennsylvania Blue Gin cocktails. Grande Dame Julie Dannenbaum and LDEI’s first President, Claire Boasi, hosted the reception at the home of Julie Dannenbaum. Julie’s home is located in the upscale and historic Rittenhouse Square neighborhood and only a short walk Square from the Sofitel. Many Philadelphia homes are referred to as “trinity homes,” which are row home that have at least three stories, with the kitchen in the basement or sub-basement, living quarters on the main floor, and one or two more levels for bedrooms. Another phrase for a trinity home is “Father, Son and Holy Ghost.” Both Julie and Claire were founding members of the Philadelphia Chapter, as was, Kathleen Mulhern, who also attended the reception. Philadelphia Dame Lynn Buono, owner of Feast Your Eyes Catering, catered the festive event. (L-R): Wendy Taylor, Debbie Marlowe, Zola Nichols and Tina Hills enjoy a glass of wine at Julie Dannenbaum’s home. (L-R): LDEI Founder Carol Brock, Katherine Newell Smith, Claire Boasi and (seated) Julie Dannenbaum. (L-R): Barb Pires and Mary Moore visit Julie Dannenbaum’s beautiful home. (L-R): Lucille Giovino and Beth Davis-Noragon. (L-R): Anita Pignataro, Kathleen Mulhern,Claire Boasi, Dottie Koteski, Lynn Buono and (seated) Julie Dannenbaum. Cocktail fare at Julie Dannenbaum’s home.

Editor’s Note: Everyone loved the festive, creative party nibbles served at Julie Dannenbaum’s home. Caterer Lynn Buono said, “We used Julie’s cookbooks and gave the menu a slightly modern presentation much like the New York Times Magazine does bringing back some of the classics...... And surely, Julie was ahead of her time when she was a proponent of using Photos by Cici Williamson

fresh ingredients......” For a taste of the party fare, visit the LDEI website. (www.ldei.org/) Lynn


provided a recipe for silky butternut squash soup served in espresso cups and topped with sweet potato marshmallows. The marshmallow recipe is from Philadelphia pastry chef Eileen Talanian. The dish actually showcases the work of three Dames. Lynn remarked,“It is rather cool to see Dames collaborating and working together.”

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Chapter photos Outgoing board

Back row (L-R): Susan Slack, Marie G. Kelley, Wendy Taylor, Zola Nichols, Alice Gautsch Foreman, Sandy Hu. Front row (L-R): Katherine Newell Smith, Teresa J. Farney, Suzanne J. Brown, Mary S. Moore

First Row of photos

Second Row of photos

Third Row of photos

Atlanta Chapter

British Columbia Chapter

Colorado Chapter

Charleston Chapter

Dallas Chapter

Back row (L-R): Gena Berry, Dana Dabruzzi, Angie Mosier, Gina Hopkins, Becky Minchew, Barbara Petit, Virginia Willis, Cathy Conway, Gloria Smiley, Tamie Cook, Andrea Case, Gaye Anderson, Debi Loftis. Front row seated (L-R): Doris Koplin, Mary Moore, Barb Pires, Shirley Corriher, Suzanne Brown, Kathleen Perry.

Austin Chapter

(L-R): Johanna Brown and Beth Pav .

Boston and Northeast ChapterS (L-R): Lucille Giovino, Kelly Delaney, Emily Schwab, Betsy Ross (Toria Emas), Ben Franklin, Laura Sapienza-Grabski (Northeast), Barbara Spencer, Nancy Matheson-Burns (Northeast).

(L-R): Colleen Wilkinson, Betsy Ross (Toria Emas), Tina Hills, Ben Franklin and Wendy Taylor. Susan Slack, Betsy Ross (Toria Emas), Debbie Marlowe, Ben Franklin and Sarah Graham.

Chicago Chapter

Back row, (L-R): Karen Levin, Sharon Olson, Brenda McDowell, Veronica Hastings, Diane Sokolofski. Bottom row: (L-R) Ina Pinkney, Nancy BarocciBrussat, Toria Emas (Betsy Ross), Eleanor Hanson.

Cleveland/Northeast ohio Chapter

(L-R): Joan Zach, Teresa Farney, Ben Franklin, CiCi Williamson and Michaele Musel. Back Row (L-R): Shelby Schafer, Tina Wasserman, Kris Ackerman, Karen Cassady. Front Row (L-R): Lynn Mattie, Dolores Snyder, Sharon Van Meter.

Hawaii Chapter

Hayley Matson-Mathes

Houston Chapter

(L-R): Debbie Jamarillo, Betsy Ross (Toria Emas), Judy Henrichsen, Ben Franklin and Julie Hettinger.

(L-R) Beth Davis-Noragon and Carol Hacker. (L-R): Executive Director Greg Jewell, Marie Kelley and Nick Vaccaro

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First Row of photos



Fourth Row of photos

Kansas City Chapter

New YOrk Chapter

Phoenix Chapter

Seattle Chapter

(L-R) Kathy Pelz, Ben Franklin, Jane Zieha and Dianne Hogerty.

Los Angeles/Orange County Chapter (L-R): Phyllis Ann Marshall, Betsy Ross (Toria Emas), Peg Rahn, Ben Franklin and Nancy Eisman.

Minneapolis/st. Paul Chapter

(L-R) Barbara Strand, Cindy Jurgensen, Ben Franklin, Mary Bartz, and Nancy Maurer.

Monterey Bay Area Chapter

Mary Chamberlain and Ben Franklin.

Back row (L-R): Jonell Nash, Lynn Fredericks, Rozanne Gold, Nancy Jessup, Liz Young and Renee Marton. Front row (L-R): Grand Dame Carol Brock, Beth Allen, Deborah Mintcheff and Mary Ellen Griffin.

Philadelphia Chapter

Front row (L-R): Anita Pignataro, Lynn Buono, Mummer*, Nancy Miller, Claire Boasi, Dottie Koteski. Second row (L-R): Beth Adonno, Sandy Dych, Eileen Talanian, Adrienne Abramson, Kathy Gold, Pattie Klein, Linda Geren, Pat Ward. Back row (L-R): Kystra Scully, Marie Stecher, Manette Richardson, Aliza Green * Member of the Polish American Mummers Band.

Palm Springs Chapter

(L-R) Zola Nichols, Joy Lavitt, Kara Nichols and Francine Robertshaw.

Betsy Ross (Toria Emas), Pamela Hamilton and Ben Franklin.

San Antonio Chapter

Back Row (L-R) Cynthia Nims, Ben Franklin, Betsy Ross (Toria Emas), Nancy Lazara. Front Row (L-R) Beverly Gruber, Alice Gautsch Foreman, Braiden Rex-Johnson.

(L-R) Marty Gonzales, Rollie Blackwell and Di-Anna Arias.

South Florida Chapter

San Diego Chapter

St. Louis Chapter

Back row (L-R): Marie Kelley, Glennalie Coleman, Vickie Armour Magiluer. Front row (L-R): Carol Blomstrom, Maria Gomez-Laurens, Janet Burgess.

San Francisco Chapter

(L-R): Sandy Hu, Amy Hoopes, Betsy Ross (Toria Emas), Marie Simmons, Ben Franklin and Fran Gage. Not pictured: Suzanne De Galan and Paula Hamilton.

(L-R) Arianna Kumpis, Susan Weinstein and Marianne Langan . (L-R) Roberta Capshaw, Kathy Gottsacker and Lori Willis.

Washington D.C. Chapter

Back row, standing (L-R): Nancy Tringali Piho, Cynthia Glover, Bonnie Benwick, Liesel Flashenberg, CiCi Williamson, Linda Joyce Forristal, Connie Jones and Gail Forman.Front row, sitting (L-R): Teresa Farney, Katherine Newell Smith, Phyllis Frucht, Karen Vartan and Dolores Kostelni.

Incoming Board

Back Row (L-R):Marie G. Kelley, Kathy Gottsacker, Ben Franklin, Betsy Ross (Toria Emas) Mary Ellen Griffin, Dorothy R. Koteski, Aliza Miriam Green. Front row (L-R): Sandy Hu, Suzanne J. Brown, Teresa J. Farney, Susan Slack, Mary S. Moore

Chapter photos and anniversary party photos taken by conference photographer Donna Connor on Friday evening, October 1st can be purchased through her website. Instructions to access images are: 1) Go to www.PhotoFace.com 2) On the homepage, click the blue “Buy Now” words at the top of the page. 3) In the middle panel of the page scroll and select LDEI in Philadelphia 4) Password for event is “Ben Franklin” (USE - the apostrophes and space between Ben and Franklin) W I N T E R Q U A RT E R LY 2 0 1 0

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“Our cake is a celebration of all the achievements of women professionals in the culinary, beverage and hospitality field. Our design centers around the emblem of Les Dames d’ Escoffier because it symbolizes the heights that we have reached not only this year, but throughout the past decades as a driving force in the American food industry “ From the winning entry of Hannah Lane and Kelli Payne

Happy Anniversaries

Ed. Notes: Thanks to Alice Gautsch Foreman, Dottie Koteski and Marie Stecher for their contributions to the spectacular anniversary party and for assistance with this article. And to professional photographer Donna Connor who made posing for the chapter photos fun. She kept us all laughing and certainly knew how to capture the moment! And to Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii) and her husband Mike, who graciously shared their photos of the anniversary party. 16


Drawing by Heather Flemke

nniversaries!

Congratulations to the seven chapters of LES DAMES D’ESCOFFIER who are celebrating anniversary milestones this year. The Cleveland/ Northeast Ohio Chapter is celebrating its fifth anniversary. The Houston Chapter celebrates its 15th anniversary. The Seattle and San Francisco Chapters are celebrating their 20th anniversary, 1989 -2009. The Dallas Chapter and the Philadelphia Chapter are celebrating a silver anniversary, 1984-2009. The Boston Chapter is celebrating its Golden Anniversary. It was originally founded in 1959 and joined LDEI in 1991. What an achievement! Congratulations, Boston Dames. Happy Anniversary to you all! On Friday evening, October 1, LDEI honored the anniversaries of seven remarkable chapters at a “Philly PHUN” evening at the Sofitel during the organization’s annual gala. The event was hosted exclusively by DFV Wines. A focus of the anniversary party was the Celebratory Big Cake, commissioned by Seattle Dame and former Director-at-large, Alice Gautsch Foreman. Her generous donation and request for a special tiered cake germinated into a competition at The Restaurant School at Walnut Hill College. Alice’s donation, in memory of her husband, Bill, not only covered the cost of W I N T E R Q U A RT E R LY 2 0 1 0

the cake but provided a scholarship award for the two students toward their education at the Restaurant School. Pastry Chef Instructor, Dame Marie Stecher organized the “Big Cake” competition involving pastry students in the bachelor program. Students were asked to design a three-tiered cake celebrating the anniversaries of the seven chapters. It needed to be creative and embrace what the association stood for, yet represent each of the 7 chapters. Most importantly- could it be delivered? Students Hannah Lane and Kelli Payne came up with the winning design. They successfully showcased city symbols for each chapter, such as: Philadelphia’s Liberty Bell; San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge; Seattle’s Space Needle, a Boston tea cup, the Dallas lone star, a Houston oil rig and for Cleveland/Northeast Ohio, a symbol to represent rock and roll. Their design also showcased the Les Dame d’ Escoffier International emblem and featured a chef hat as the top of the cake. The photos tell the story of the festive event. Guests admired the intricacy of the celebratory cake, discovering more and more details from every angle. After the grazing dinner with fabulous Philadelphia fare, the “big cake” was served with Häagen-Dazs ice cream. Highlights of the evening included a surprise visit from Benjamin Franklin and Betsy Ross and a Mummers parade and string band. The entertainers, dressed in colorful, flamboyant costumes, have traditions that date back at least to the Middle Ages. 17

Dames Who Farm

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he 2000 Green Tables showcased farmer Dames whose various agrarian enterprises include heirloom vegetable production, fruit and livestock. We should get to know the Dames who work as growers and in related food professions. Moderators included Green Tables Co-Chairs, Hilary Baum (New York), Barbara Petit (Atlanta). Dame farmers on the panel were Linda Geren (Philadelphia) of Highview Farms, Melissa Smith (Philadelphia) and Jennifer Verrill (Boston), who couldn’t be present but a knowledgeable representative took her place.

BREAKFAST LUNCH Our A ging S enses and Cuisine by Brenda McDowell (Chicago) Presented by: Sanne Boseveldt, PhD Postdoctoral Fellow Monell Center (Philadelphia, PA)

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he Monell Center was founded more than 40 years ago, dedicated to basic research into the senses of taste and smell. The US Census predicts that within 10 years, for the first time in history, old people will outnumber young people across the globe. And with aging, comes a decline in all senses. Smell and taste are the main senses that affect flavor, with smell being the predominant component as evidenced by a simple exercise: Hold your nose and put a jelly bean in your mouth; it’s difficult to identify the flavor. When you release your nose, the flavor is immediately more pronounced. As we age, we are less sensitive to odors; we perceive them as less intense. However we are more able to identify food odors than nonfood odors, even in older age. And, women are better at identifying odors than men. Our taste buds are also less sensitive as we age, but sensitivity to sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami receptors does not decline equally. For example, the sweet receptors remain stable throughout life while sour receptors decline most. Flavor perception also changes with age: Pleasant flavors become less pleasant while unpleasant flavors become less unpleasant. We shift to a more neutral flavor perception, and we’re inclined to enjoy foods less and eat less which can lead to weight loss and nutritional deficiencies (also called anorexia of aging). Caloric needs decrease with aging, therefore the intake of nutrients decreases. So as we age, food intake should be modified to be lower in calorie density, higher in nutrient density, and include more aromatics.

Top: Phyllis Frucht donated some of the proceeds from her jewelry sales to LDEI projects. Botom: Dianne Hogerty, Eileen Talanian, Lynn Fredericks

“Use it or lose it!” by Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii) This popular adage, as the research from the Monell Taste Center explained at the Philadelphia LDEI conference, really does impact -- positively or negatively -- one’s sense of taste. Sadly, our sensory functions begin to decline at the ripe young age of twenty. One of the consequences of aging is a reduced sense of smell and we need smell for the taste experience. Not exactly what the baby boomer Dames at my table wanted to hear. The Taste Center experts, however, point out that their message is not one of gloom and doom. Much like going to the gym, conducting physical exercise, or doing Sudoku brain teasers, our palates also benefit from a sensory workout. The good news -- our sensory acuity can be modulated by repeated exposure. Science speak for just do it! You now have the perfect excuse to try new and exciting tastes, but just remember to call it training. If you have more questions on this important topic, visit the Monell Chemical Senses Center at www.monell.org.

Susan Slack

Sanne Boseveldt, Ph.D. spoke about the inherent problems of our aging senses after the elegant lunch. Dames dined on succulent pasture-raised veal. (L-R) Marie Kelley and Lori Dunn of Strauss Veal. Grand Dame Shirley and Archie Corriher having a grand time. In back: (L-R) Toria Emas and Alice G. Forman. Seated (L-R): Allison Awerbuch, Abigail Kirsch and Chef Rebecca Troelstra (BC) - one of LDEI’s first Legacy Award winners.

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LDEI Council of Delegates Meeting by Greg Jewell, Executive Director

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DEI’s annual business meeting (the Council of Delegates) took place on October 3 as part of the Philadelphia conference. Approximately 90 members took part in the two-hour meeting, which featured a review of the year’s successes, an approval of the 2010 budget and the ratification of a new chapter charter. Here are the highlights: The Council of Delegates approved the budget for 2010. The most controversial issue within the budget was the decision to eliminate the biography section from the LDEI Membership Directory starting in 2010. The biographies are available online at www.ldei.org. The move will cut the cost of directory production by one third. There was significant discussion around the issue of an online directory versus a printed one. The decision was made to continue with the printed directory. A newly formed chapter in the northeast region petitioned the board and the Council of Delegates for an LDEI charter. The group, known as the Northeast Chapter, is an outgrowth of the Boston chapter. The Council of Delegates unanimously approved the new charter, bring the total number of LDEI chapters to 27. Also of note… The Legacy Awards, which had an inaugural run in 2009, will continue in 2010. The Global Culinary Initiatives Committee will try to connect LDEI to the diverse communities it serves as it moves forward. There is a movement to create a forum for cross-chapter issues. Paula Hamilton made a presentation on this need and used the San Francisco Chapter’s work with the reformation of the school lunch program as an example. She also noted that LDEI should leverage relationships with other professional organizations. Zola Nichols invited all to join her and the Palm Springs Chapter for the 2010 LDEI Annual Conference, October 21-24 in Palm Springs at the Hyatt Grand Champions Resort and Spa.

(L-R) Margaret Kuo, Cynthia Glover, Gail Forman, Karen Vartan, Liesel Flashenberg, CiCi Williamson. Photo: Susan Slack (not pictured)

While commuting back to Washington D.C. after the conference, 7 Dames detoured to Wayne, Pa. to enjoy a special lunch at Margaret Kuo’s Dragon’s Lair, where the famous restaurateur joined her guests in the elegant first floor dining room. Everyone raved over the exquisite Chinese dishes: juicy Shanghai Steamed Buns, Hot & Sour Shiitaki Mushroom Soup, seafood dumplings, Shanghai noodles and fried Chinese crullers with sweet soymilk, to name a few. Dame Margaret, a trained chemist, was called “a one-woman dynasty” by the Philadelphia magazine. She has been the featured chef at a James Beard Foundation’s Chinese New Year dinner.

A Brunch to Remember! by Louise Ceccarelli (Philadelphia)

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Beth Allen

he two dozen conference attendees and their guests who attended the Post Conference Brunch at Di Bruno’s on Sunday, October 5th were treated to extra-ordinary fare, which followed the personal tour and history of the original family business and current enterprises. The story of the Di Bruno Brothers was presented by Emilio Mignucci, a current generation of the Di Bruno Family. The chefs didn’t plan your typical brunch menu. It consisted of eight small plate courses, each compelling and creatively composed. Each plate of food was highly sophisticated with a fusion of ingredients that invited delight and tasting. Each course was unique and delicious. Among the courses, were: steak and quail egg, luscious French toast, lobster salad, duck pate, homemade fresh cheese, and unique fresh fruit pizza for desert. For more about Di Bruno Brothers– Culinary Pioneers Since 1939, visit www.dibruno.com

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S H IRLEY CORRIHER H O N O R ED AT T H E

GRANDE DAME AWARD DINNER

by Lori Willis (St. Louis)

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xcitement grew each day of the Philadelphia 2009 annual conference, leading up to the culminating event, the Grande Dame dinner honoring Shirley Corriher of Atlanta, Georgia. In typical Les Dames fashion, the drama of this evening was played out on two very different stages. The evening began with a reception at the Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts. Dressed in evening finery, Dames were transported to the Center’s glass domed Rooftop Garden, offering a panoramic view of the historic Philadelphia skyline and later, bathed everyone in the glow of sunset. It was a cue for the well-heeled guests to start the short walk down Broad Street to the next venue. It seemed only fitting that the Les Dames event was the first to be held in the newly renovated Ballroom of the Academy of Music. The blue and gold appointed room had the air of a grand theater. Dames, including outgoing President Suzanne Brown, took the opportunity to move from table-to-table to greet friends and congratulate the evening’s honoree. Following the elegant dinner and into the dessert, the lights dimmed and a video biography of Shirley allowed friends and colleagues an opportunity to retrace the steps of her lifetime of contributions to the food community and to analyze her impact on culinary arts. Shirley floated up to the podium and used her time to

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share thoughts of those who inspire her to do all that she does in service to others. Suzanne Brown then took the stage and, after recapping the past year of challenges and successes, passed the gavel to Teresa Farney, the international organization’s new president from Colorado Springs, Colorado.

As everyone emptied out of the banquet and into the waiting buses, the room echoed with laughter as the joyful Atlantans jumped from their seats and cheered. Photos by Susan Slack and Lori Willis. Special thanks to Lori, who contributed many of the great photos in this feature.


LDEI Past Presidents at the Grande Dame Dinner. Back row (L-R) : Claire Boassi (Philadelphia), Katherine Newell Smith (Washington, D.C.), Nancy Brussat Barocci (Chicago) and CiCi Williamson (Washington D.C.). Front row (L-R): Dolores Snyder (Dallas), Toria Emas (Chicago), Dianne Hogerty (Kansas City).


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Compiled by Chandra Ram (Chicago)

AT L A N TA

Barb Pires, President

The Atlanta Chapter held a culinary yard sale at the Peachtree Farmers Market on Saturday, Oct. 17, to benefit the Farmers Flood Relief Fund that will assist the many local farmers that have suffered devastating losses from the recent rains in Georgia. The total estimated loss of income and farm damage price tag on the farms is over $50,000. $2280 will go to the farms that were affected from LDEI Atlanta. Thanks to all the Dames that donated cookbooks, kitchenware, linens and time for this worthy cause. Will Harris of White Oak Pastures, hosted a group of Dames on Sunday, Oct. 25, for a tour of his family’s cattle farm and lunch on the “patio”. We were treated to steaks cooked on the grill by Will and listened to his great stories of how he has taken White Oak Pastures to the success it is. White Oak Pastures works in cooperation with nature to produce premium quality beef that is healthy, nutritious, and good to eat. Care is given to ensure that all of the production practices are economically practical, ecologically sustainable, and that the animals are always humanely treated. (L-R) Barb Pires, Tamie Cook, Stacy Zeigler, Liz Cipro, Because of the timing of our Left: Mary Reynolds Kneeling: Beverly Seckinger trip, we saw many of the new calves that were born Right: (L-R) Gena Berry, Barb Pires, Will Harris, Andrea Denise Quigley, Jenna Quigley, within the past 10 days. Case, Sumner Calhoun, Elizabeth Lee, Gina Hopkins

Au stin

Mary Margaret Pack

With sleeves rolled up and lots of projects in the works, the Austin Dames’ 2009-10 officers have assumed their positions. Co-Presidents Gina Burchenal and Beth Pav take over leadership duties from Past President Aimee Olson; they’ll be aided by Cathy Strange, First Vice-President; Denice Woods, Second Vice-President; Kitty Crider, Secretary; Karen 22

Farnsworth, Treasurer; Paula Biehler, PR and Marketing; Maribel Rivero, Programs Director; and Paula Angerstein, Webmaster. At the annual Escoffier Dinner at The Carillon on November 2, the Austin Chapter welcomed Austin Dames “Cook with the Book” at Central Market Cooking School its newest mem- on October 9, 2009 (L-R): Dawn Orsak, Pamela Nevarez-Fisher, Gina bers: Toni Tipton- Burchenal Martin, Margaret Vera, Marla Camp, and Jane Nickles. For the terrific dinner prepared by The Carillon’s Executive Chef Josh Watkins, Cathy Strange provided cheeses, Jackie Gulledge supplied meze, Teresa Wilson provided quail, and Aimee Olson prepared dessert. Austin Dames are extremely proud of Austinite Erin Taylor, one of the two national recipients of the 2009 LDEI Legacy Award in Culinary and Wine, open to non-Dames in the industry. Taylor traveled to Washington State in September for a weeklong grape-harvest internship with Kay Simon of Chinook Vineyards and Tris Gelles of Klipspan Vineyard. Taylor, a Texas Culinary Academy (TCA) graduate with an AOS degree in Le Cordon Blue Culinary Arts, has been director of career services for TCA since 2005. She’s completed Wine Fundamentals Levels One and Two from the International Sommelier Guild and has a Wine Basics degree from the Wine School of Philadelphia. On Oct. 9, at the Central Market Cooking School in Austin, 32 students learned and tasted recipes from the Cooking with Les Dames d’Escoffier cookbook. Dawn Orsak, who contributed to the book, along with Pamela Nevarez-Fisher and Gina Burchenal, presented a menu that included Seasonal Mushroom Galette in a Cornmeal Crust, Creamy Roasted Parsnip Soup with Chevre Walnut Crostini, Salmon Fillets baked in Grape-Leaf Wraps, Roasted Brussels Sprouts, Swedish Meatballs with Eastern European Sauerkraut, and Peach Tree Country Kitchen’s Bread Pudding with Jack Daniel’s Caramel Sauce. Proceeds from class enrollment, along with cookbook and apron sales, earned approximately $1700 for the Austin Dames’ scholarship fund. The Dames are very grateful for Central Market’s support.

B oston

Emily Schwab, Board member (Public Relations)

In May the Boston Chapter celebrated Ana Costa’s 90th birthday. The Dames presented Ana with a saber to commemorate the evening, which was also used to demonstrate the dramatic “sabering of a magnum of Les Dames d’Escoffier International

champagne.” Two of the most prestigious Boston gastronomic organizations also honored Ana and her accomplishments: the Boston Baillage de la Chaine des Rotisseurs named her an Officier and a Commandeur XX Annees; Les Amis d’Escoffier Society Boston, founded in 1938, named her its first ever Honorary Member. Kelly Delaney was interviewed by Pat Whitley for his restaurant show that airs every Sunday on local radio. It can be found at www.nedine.com by following the link for past radio shows and then Cakes for Occasions, the name of Kelly’s shop. She also did a segment in October on Fox 25 (Boston) Morning News and showed the public how they too can create delicious and ghoulish Halloween treats.

C harleston

Right (L-R): Stacey Denaux of Crisis Ministries’ Family Center accepts a contribution of $1,500 from Deidre Schipani on behalf of the Charleston Chapter. Bottom: The Charleston Chapter welcomes eight new Dames. Back Row (L-R): Kathleen Rogers, Angela McCravitz, Rachel Byrne. Middle Row (L-R): Teresa Taylor, Donna Gustafson. Front Row (L-R): Peg Moore, Danielle Wecksler and Sarah O’Kelley and Past President Deidre Schipani

IACP/Julia Child cookbook award winner Susan G. Purdy (New York) with her latest of 30 cookbooks, Pie in the Sky: 100 Cakes, Pies, Cookies, Breads, and Pastries Home-Tested For Baking at Sea Level, 3,000, 5,000, 7,000, and 10,000 Feet and Anywhere in Between; IACP/Julia Child award winner Beverly Cox (Colorado), the food editor of Native Peoples Magazine and co-author of 13 cookbooks, including her latest, Eating Cuban, 120 Authentic Recipes from the Streets of Havana to American Shores; Rebecca Rather (San Antonio), proprietor of the Rather Sweet Bakery and Café with her cookbook Pastry Queen Parties: Entertaining Friends and Family, Texas Style; Jerry Anne Di Vecchio,(San Francisco), a food-wine authority and writer, who co-authored You‘ve Got Recipes with Francoise Kirkman and was part of the team that created Cooking with Les Dames d’Escoffier.

H awaii

Hayley Matson-Mathes New Members Welcomed with Sweet Jazz

Chef Abigail Langlas welcomed 25 members to Sweet Jazz at CAKE WORKS. Sweet jazz was complemented by Dame Abi’s sweet creations; a selection of gourmet pupus from Soleil Fusha, Foodland; a coffee presentation by Shawn Steiman, author of “The Hawaii Coffee Book,” and a wine tasting. Twelve new members were welcomed.

C olorado

Kuvy Ax

Dames d’Escoffier from all over the U.S. came to sign copies of their cookbooks at the fifth annual Denver Food & Wine Classic at the Metropolitan State College of Denver on September 12, 2009. Copies of Cooking with Les Dames d’Escoffier were available for sale. Marlys Connor organized the book signing portion of the event, which included several Dames from around the country: Grande Dame Shirley O. Corriher, (Atlanta) has won multiple James Beard and other awards for her cookbooks, CookWise and Bakewise; Top (L-R): Denver Food & Wine Classic: Rebecca Rather (San Antonio); Mary Mino and Rebecca Pasquariello (Denver). Bottom: Denver Food & Wine Classic: Michaele Musel (Denver ); Jerry Anne Di Vecchio (San Francisco); Shirley O. Corriher (Atlanta Chapter); and Susan Purdy (New York).


Photo 1: The Hawaii Chapter gathered at the Halekulani Hotel on October 28 for their annual Escoffier dinner. The event was hosted by Halekulani Food and Beverage Director, Dame Sabine Glissmann, Photo 2: Hawaii Dames visited CAKE WORKS. Photo 3: Hawaii’s new Dames enjoyed the CAKE WORKS event. Photo 4: Hawaii Dames Dorothy Colby, Hayley Matson-Mathes, Jean Hull, Fern Tomisato and Kay Tokunaga and guests enjoyed a social evening by attending the Julie & Julia movie and dinner at James Beard award-winning Chef Mavro’s Restaurant. Dinner menu . . . Boeuf Bourguignon and Tarte Tatin, but, of course!

23

Palm S prings

Zola Nichols

Several members of the Palm Springs Chapter and their guests enjoyed the film Julie & Julia along with a sell-out crowd of local chefs, restaurateurs, food writers and self-proclaimed gourmets. Inspired by the martinis that Julie and Julia imbibed, the group headed to a nearby lounge after the film for cocktails and appetizers and to discuss the fabulous performance of Meryl Streep.

chapter should be published in the November/December issue. Thanks to June Hayes, Pat Mozersky and Tracey Maurer for moving and shaking and planting the seed about our chapter. We voted to have a continued presence at the 18th Annual Herb Festival on October 17. Participation has been a tradition, but this year we used this opportunity to heighten awareness of our chapter, it’s mission, vision and information about our second annual 2010 Olives Ole’ fundraiser to be held March 27th. With a prime location for our booth, Diana Barrios Trevino, Nichole Bendele, Nancy Fitch and Di-Anna Arias handed out all of the 1500 beautiful postcards with mixed herb packets attached. Dames were able to tell visitors how to mix the herbs into Extra-Virgin Olive Oil for dipping, marinating, grilling and roasting. The board of directors conducted a retreat on October 25 at Stony Ridge Ranch, home to Rollie Blackwell. The purpose was to finalize new Bylaws and Policies and Procedures that will be presented to the membership in January. Of course, we did not do all this hard work without eating! We feasted on a flavorful Moroccan inspired lunch prepared by Rollie. That evening, Naylene Dillingham prepared her signature Mac and Ernie’s Cabrito Burger at the end of a long workday. Left: Dame Tracey Maurer snapped a shot of the hard working SA Chapter board of directors enjoying a glass of wine after a hard day at revising Bylaws & Policies and Procedures. Right: Dame Rollie Blackwell at home in her Stony Ridge Ranch B & B kitchen. While the BOD worked, she also worked tirelessly on her roasted chicken with homemade preserved lemons and olives, zucchini & new potatoes with charmoula, cannellini bean salad with nigella seeds, Turkish salad, cherry tomato ice cream with white chocolate cranberry cookies. Arias.

S eattle

Photo 1: (L-R): Palm Springs Vice President Nikki Bianchi, Treasurer Zola Nichols and Secretary Gail Nottbert stand in front of a Julie & Julia movie poster on the film’s opening day. Photo 2: (L-R): Palm Springs Dames Donna Curran, Gail Nottberg, Zola Nichols, a guest and Francine Robertshaw attend the Julie & Julia movie.

S an A ntonio

Linda Triesch, Corresponding Secretary

The San Antonio Chapter celebrated fellow Dame Julia Child at the opening of Julie & Julia on August 7. Members and guests attended the movie followed by a private French-inspired after-party at WineStyles wine bar. French cheeses, pastries and wine were featured with the help of Nancy Fitch and Chapter President Di-Anna Arias. Door prizes were given to the best Julia Child/French inspired outfit. On September 21, we held the first New Member Orientation at Linda Triesch’s home. She and her husband Tom, along with Susan Johnson, prepared a delicious meal of marinated grilled red fish tacos - caught, cleaned and cooked by Tom. Well-attended by 24 Dames, the orientation proved to be educational to new and current members. Jasmina Wellinghoff, senior writer for the San Antonio Woman magazine, attended to interview several members and learn about LDEI. The article on our 24

Susy Davidson and Braiden Rex-Johnson

In May, Dorene McTigue opened her home overlooking Lake Sammamish for a program titled, “Getting to Know the Dames,” which honored new inductees Pamela Montgomery, Anne Nisbet, and Joanne Herron. Members new and old discussed the chapter’s history, fundraising and scholarships, members’ commitment and involvement, educational programs and meetings, recognition of current chapter leaders, and the role of LEDI. Dorene fired up her wood-burning pizza oven and encouraged fellow Dames to create their own –accompanied by wine made by Terry McTigue and authentic gelato created by Maria Coassin, owner of Gelatiamo. In June, the Seattle Chapter celebrated the Northwest’s iconic fish, salmon, at Christine Keff’s Flying Fish restaurant in downtown Seattle. Keff shared her considerable knowledge about this legendary fish – its lifecycle, the impact of the Keff displays an environment and of politics on Pacific Christine 18-pound King salmon. Les Dames d’Escoffier International

species, and its culinary importance – while filleting an 18-pound King. A spirited discussion was followed by a tasting of four of the five Pacific species (King, Sockeye, Coho, and Chum) and dinner, which included Salmon Cakes and Crispy Skin Salmon with Citrus-Olive Oil. In September, Seattle Dames and guests learned about the healing power of foods at a program hosted by Lisa Dupar at her Pomegranate Bistro in Redmond. Nutritional therapists led a discussion about foods which naturally support individuals’ metabolic needs, as well as what can be learned from traditional diets of healthy, non-industrialized peoples. Dames learned about optimal growing and preparation techniques and feasted on nutrient-rich dishes such as organic pasture-raised beef broth simmered for 60 hours to extract maximum minerals and gelatin, zingy kimchi, and coconut kefir.

S o u th F lorida

Irene Moore

The South Florida Chapter hosted an Escoffier Celebration Dinner on Friday, Oct. 16, to commemorate the October birthday of Auguste Escoffier. The dinner was held in the ballroom of Florida International University’s Kovens Center in conjunction with the Florida International University School of Hospitality and Le Cordon Bleu, with 72 guests in

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attendance. The beautifully decorated room featured Provencal theme centerpieces and an impressive Les Dames d’Escoffier ice sculpture. The spectacular dishes were prepared by Cordon Bleu Chef Morgan Nims, assisted by her students, and were paired with fantastic wines. Associate Dean Mohammad Qureshi and the students of the FIU Hospitality and Management Program participated in serving the guests. Dinner Committee included organizers Dorothee Rubin and Ariana Kumpis; Marianne Langan, Silent Auction Chairperson; Irene Moore, Silent Auction Committee and PR Chairperson; Teena Borek; Priscilla Bittson; Diane Campion; Simone Diament—who donated wines for the event—Marguerite Gil, Virginia Godoy, Juanita Plana, Denisse Schnebly—who donated the dessert wine—and Terri Wallman, a sommelier who guided guests through the wine pairings for the dinner. Dinner guests included an attaché of the French consulate, a representative of the Miami-Dade County Farm Bureau, and members of several French organizations. Assistant Dean Qureshi accepted a scholarship check for $2,000 for an FIU student, in memory of late Professor Marcel Escoffier, nephew of Auguste Escoffier, who was a professor at FIU. In September, Simone Diament, Carole Kotkin, and Irene Moore were invited as guests of the Italy America Chamber of Commerce in Miami on a “Buy FVG,” press trip to Friuli-Venezia Giulia in Italy. It was sponsored by the Agencia Regionale Turismo Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The press trip was organized by FVG’s Agencia Regionale. There were150 attendees from all over Europe, but only five from the U.S., all from Miami. The Miami attendees, all members of the media, were selected for their wine and culinary credentials, and their portion of the press trip focused on the Friuli-Venezia Giulia area’s wine and food.

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www.cabotcheese.coop 25

HAWAII Abigail Langlas, Chef/Owner of Cakeworks Honolulu, created a ‘59 Cadillac Eldorado, for the 50th anniversary of the Hawaii Auto Dealers Association. (HADA). The front of the car was lemon buttercake with Lilikoi filling and the back portion was chocolate decadence. The caddy was 4 feet long. Abigail is the treasurer of the Hawaii Chapter.

Compiled by CiCi Williamson (2003 LDEI President) BOSTON Maria Speck, veteran journalist and food writer, is currently working on a whole grain cookbook, forthcoming from Ten Speed Press. In addition, Eating Well and Cooking Pleasures will publish whole grain feature stories and recipes of hers in the spring of 2010. Having been raised in Germany and Greece, Maria’s cooking is inspired by the ease and appeal of Mediterranean cuisine and the centuries-old traditions of preparing whole grain foods in Northern Europe. 

Maria Speck

CHICAGO Carrie Nahabedian, chef-co-owner of Chicago’s Naha, was inducted into the Chicago Culinary Museum Chefs Hall of Fame at a ceremony September 22. Chicago Mayor Richard Daley upped the ante even more, making the official proclamation that September 22, 2009 was Carrie Nahabedian Day, in recognition of her culinary skills and contributions to Chicago’s food community. DALLAS Carrie Nahabedian Tina Wasserman (Dallas) seated with Bonnie Benwick. Standing left to right: CiCi Williamson, Beverly Brockus, Phyllis Frucht, Katherine Newell Smith, Sheilah Kaufman, Gail Forman and Jane Olmsted (all Washington, D.C.). Photo by CiCi Williamson. Tina Wasserman visited Washington, D.C., on the tour for her new book Entrée to Judaism: A Culinary Exploration of the Jewish Diaspora. The Washington, D.C. Chapter held a potluck dinner in her honor at Beverly Brockus’ home.

A pink Cadillac cake made by Abigail Langlas (R), Hawaii

LOS ANGELES Carrie Kommers, Director of dineLA, launched the first ever dineLA Restaurant Week Food Truck this fall. The truck traveled throughout LA County with a different celebrity chef on board each day doling out free tastes. Chefs included Eric Greenspan of The Foundry on Melrose, Jason Johnston of Dakota at the Hollywood Roosevelt, and Alain Giraud of Anisette Brasserie. MIAMI Larry Dunagan, president of the Dade County Farm Bureau, presents an Agricultural Advocacy Award to Ariana Kumpis. Ariana Kumpis was awarded an Agricultural Advocacy award by the Dade County Farm Bureau in October 2009. Ariana volunteers her time teaching cooking and nutrition classes to farm workers at the Everglades Community Association in Florida City. She actively promotes South Dade growers to media, restaurants, and chefs. Dade County Farm Bureau represents over 4, 000 members, and over 900 agricultural operations. Dade County farmers provide an economic impact of over $2.57 billion to the local and state economy. www.dade-agriculture.org.

LEFT: Ariana Kupis receives an Agricultural Advocacy award. RIGHT: Simone Diament, Carole Kotkin and Roberta Klugman had lunch at Taste of Sonoma.They picked up Chef/Owner Amryll Schwertner of Boulettes Larder and stopped off at the Cowgirl Creamery to visit Dame owner/cheesemakers Sue Conley and Peggy Smith. Front row (L-R): Dames Carole Kotkin (Miami), Roberta Klugman (SF), Simone Diament (Miami); back row Sue Conley (SF) and Peggy Smith (SF) in the San Francisco Ferry St. Building.

NEW YORK Eileen Yin-Fei Lo announces the November 2009 publication of her 11th cookbook, Mastering the Art of Chinese Cooking. The “Cantonese Julia Child” was featured in a documentary filmed in and around New York’s Chinatown markets and kitchens and in the China Institute in America to honor the occasion. Eileen and her husband visited Hong Kong to celebrate their 50th anniversary in the city where they were married. She also reported on Hong Kong’s food scene for Food Arts magazine for which she is an Asian authority. 26


Lucy Wing has opened an Asian restaurant in her hometown of Superior, Arizona. The New York City food writer and editor owns Jade Grill Asian BBQ, but other family members have been involved. The unique building was by Lucy’s brother David, a San Francisco architect in. A niece designed the logo and menus. Two sisters in Portland and Seattle helped develop menu recipes. A San Diego dietitian sister helped make the menu as healthy as possible. The restaurant project took 4 1/2 years. The varied foods and balancing of sweet, savory, spicy and sour flavors of Southeast Asia, reinterpreted, mingle in Jade Grill’s offerings to create an exceptional and refreshing experience in the Arizona desert on U.S. Highway 60.

SAN Francisco Georgeanne Brennan announces the fall publication of two new cookbooks, Gather - Memorable Menus for Entertaining Throughout the Seasons (Sasquatch, 2009) and Williams-Sonoma The Essentials of French Cooking (Oxmoor, 2009). In November her ‘Provence in California’ culinary weekends were featured in Gourmet magazine. Jeannette Ferrary read from her food-filled memoir, Out of the Kitchen: Adventures of a Food Writer, Georgeanne Brennan at the food and community center, 18 Reasons, at San Francisco’s 2009 Litquake festival The Saturday evening session was devoted to the food writing genre from sustainable agriculture to eclectic food blogs to memoir.

SAINT LOUIS Julia M. Usher is pleased to report that her new book, Cookie Swap: Creative Treats to Share Throughout the Year (released August 2009), is already in its third printing as of September. Julia is a 2008 James Beard Media Awards Finalist, a Director of the International Association of Culinary Professionals, and Contributing Editor at Dessert Professional. Julia M. Usher

Lori Willis, Kathy Gottsacker and Vicki Decker-Smith are pleased to announce that their company, St. Louis-based Schnuck Markets, Inc., is the 2009 winner of the International Association of Food Protection’s Black Pearl Award for Food Safety. According to Dianna Pasley, Schnucks Director of Food Safety, this prestigious award is an honor for the entire Schnucks team. Pasley said, “It is a direct result of the decision of company leaders to make food safety an integral part of the Schnucks culture by making training and education materials available to customers and to 15,500 associates across seven states.” SAN ANTONIO Sandy Winokur owner of Sandy Oaks Olive Orchard, will host the San Antonio Chapter’s major fundraiser, “Olives Olé,” on March 27, 2010. On September 2nd, workers and friends brought in the first of this year’s olive harvest on large tarps, in baskets and even in their pockets. Olives were pressed in the brand new olive press flown into Texas from Italy. After the bright green oil began streaming from the spigot, staff, friends and fellow Dames got tastes of this year’s first pressing. The harvest was a result of 11 years of hard work building a healthy, 10,000 tree olive orchard that is bearing fruit and oil. www.sandyoaks.com W I N T E R Q U A RT E R LY 2 0 1 0

SEATTLE Nicole Aloni launched a new blog, consciousfeast.com. It joins nicolealoni. net, where she continues to share her experiences as a food writer, media spokesperson and culinary tour guide. The blog’s focus mirrors her book in progress and takes a sustainable approach to cooking and entertaining. It contains recipes, essays, entertaining tips and living-green articles. Holly Smith was chosen as one of ten contestants this season on the Food Network’s “The Next Iron Chef ”, which premiered on October 4, 2009, and was tied as the number one show in cable that evening. Holly won the 2008 James Beard Foundation award for Best Chef Northwest. Her Kirkland, Wash., restaurant, Cafe Juanita, was nominated for the Foundation’s national “Best Restaurant Service” in 2009. WASHINGTON, D.C. Nora Pouillon accepted the Genesis Award from Women Chefs & Restaurateurs-- which just might be her favorite honor to date. She has earned kudos from the International Association of Culinary Professionals, the American Horticultural Society, the Campaign for Better Health, the Organic Trade Association, and from D.C. Mayor Adrian Fenty for environmental excellence. Ann Yonkers was named by Washingtonian magazine as one of the 100 most powerful women in Washington, D.C. Ann is Co-Director of nine Freshfarm Markets -- the newest one is near the White House. The Dupont Circle market has a customer base of more than 100,000 and was named by The Wall Street Journal and The Financial Times of London as one of the top farmers’ markets in the country. Ann’s Co-Director is Bernadine (Bernie) Prince (also Washington, D.C.). 27

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LDEI Ad Final.pdf

8/26/09

7:45:22 AM

In M emoriam Dame Lee Wooding (NEW YORK CHAPTER)

What’s the secret to boosting

umami

in chocolate?

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

Soy Sauce, naturally.

by Eileen Talanian (Philadelphia)

I

t is with profound sadness that I write this memorial for Dame Lee Wooding. Lee was a woman of immense generosity both intellectually and emotionally. She was the first to welcome a new face, with a smile and friendly chatter that made even the shyest people feel comfortable, never forgetting a name or the important details of those she met. She was passionate about food and wine and everything culinary. An ardent cooking teacher, Lee enthusiastically educated and informed her students with culinary insights and luscious recipes, inviting them to share her passion and learn from her exquisite palate. But the most striking features of her personality were her loyalty and support, both for her close friends and for the organization to which she was fully committed, Les Dames d’Escoffier. Lee served on the board for the Philadelphia chapter, and when she moved to Connecticut, for the board of the New York chapter, and volunteered for international committees. Lee requested that there not be a fuss made when she died, no funeral or memorial service, and her family has honored that request. But they have found a method for us to remember her in a way that she would have accepted and embraced. An organization in New Brunswick, where Lee grew up, provides food for the homeless, and also teaches indigent people how to perform in the kitchen, providing them with job-seeking skills. The organization has agreed to apply any funds donated in Lee’s name to the kitchen skills program. Donations may be made in Lee’s name to: Elijah’s Promise, 211 Livingston Ave., New Brunswick, NJ 08901. This is truly a fitting way to remember Lee. dfvwines.com http://www.elijahspromise.net/index.htm

It’s true.

A splash of naturally brewed Kikkoman Soy Sauce can boost the umami factor of just about anything. Not just Asian. Not just savory. Even chocolate. No wonder it’s the flavor enhancing secret of chefs and home cooks worldwide.

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LDEI Ad Final.pdf

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7:45:22 AM

What’s the secret to boosting

umami

6]\Sg ^ZSOaS R]\¸bU]

in chocolate? Deadlines SPRING QUARTERLY, 2010.. .................. JANUARY 15, 2010   SUMMER, 2010.................................. APRIL 15, 2010 AUTUMN, 2010.. ................................. JULY 15, 2010

Photography/Images E-mail photos must be properly focused and in color with a minimum resolution of 7\Q

dfvwines.com 30


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Atlanta Austin Boston British Columbia, Canada Charleston Chicago Cleveland/Northeast Ohio Colorado Dallas Hawaii Houston Kansas City/Heart of America Los Angeles/Orange County Minneapolis/St. Paul Monterey Bay Area New York Northeast Palm Springs Philadelphia Phoenix San Antonio San Diego San Francisco Seattle South Florida St. Louis Washington, D.C.

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CONFERENCE 2010 OCTOBER 21-24

The Palm Springs Chapter invites you to our beautiful oasis in the California desert for the 2010 LDEI Conference. Our desert destination has many unique features that encompass the village ambiance of Palm Springs, restaurants of the River Mall in Rancho Mirage, luxury shops on El Paseo in Palm Desert and the fabulous Hyatt Grand Champions Resort, Villas and Spa in Indian Wells - our conference location. In the midst of a stunning desert landscape, the opulent 45 acre resort features lush gardens, sparkling fountains, a celebrated art collection and a 30,000 squarefoot, state-of-the-art Agua Serena Medical and Skin Spa. The fertile valley is surrounded by a majestic alluvial plain, banked by steep ravines and lofty mountain peaks that soar over ten thousand feet above the oasis floor. There are ancient palm groves, hot springs and an abundance of plants and wild life. Nature provides the perfect setting for a ride to the top of the mountain in a tram, a hike through the Living Desert Park, golf, tennis, hot-air ballooning or a midnight swim. The area’s cultural heritage is a blend of the old and the new. Native American Indians laid claim to this desert paradise but established the tradition of coexistence when the first settlers arrived in the 1880s. Today the tribal governments work hand in hand with the city governments to ensure the protection of resouces that created the valley, while building for the future. Their casinos and hotels provide entertainment, and are a source of revenue for their tribal members, local schools, hospitals and charitable organizations. The area abounds with museums and examples of mid-century modern architecture, recognized by the National Trust for Historic Preservation. Plan to be with us in 2010. We truly have something for everyone to enjoy. Zola Nichols