Jan 5, 2012 ... To see an educational video on Framcolor Glamour, ... Framcolor Glamour
ensures a uniform result on roots, lengths and ends. ◇ 100% gray ...
Technical Manual
TECHNICAL MANUAL
All you need to know . . .
2
Simple. . . 100% gray coverage with each of the 49 shades
(no intermixing)
Easy. . . same formula root to ends, never browns out Creative. . . pure tone results from pre-blended formulas
The Technical
To see an educational video on Framcolor Glamour, visit www.framesiglamour.com! Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
Table of Contents Introduction
5
Protective Coverage Technology
6
Features & Benefits
7
Client Consultation
9 - 11
Basic Color Theory
12
The Color Wheel
13
European + International Number System
14 - 15
Steps to Successful Color Formulation
16 - 22
Table of Series / Bases
19
Shades and Where They Fall in the Color Wheel
20
Reflexes (tone)
21
Activators
22
Performing a Patch Test
23
24
Mixing, Measuring & Application of a Strand Test
Mixing, Measuring & Application
25 - 27
Processing Time - Resistant Gray Processing Time
28
Refreshing Faded Ends
29
Blonding - Ultra Lift Shades
30
31 - 36
Blonding / Toning
Toning
37
Low-Lighting
38
Color Correction
39 - 43
Service Stabilizers
44
The framesi System of Products
45 - 67
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL 4
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
The professional haircolor that gives the hairstylist the ability to create hair fashion with great simplicity and with the best possible attention in terms of healthy hair. The system that protects both hair and color.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Introduction
5
Protective Coverage Technology Framcolor Glamour ensures a uniform result on roots, lengths and ends. 100% gray coverage achieved with each of the 49 shades Easy to use - no need for intermixing One formula, root to ends… never browns out Pure tone results from pre-blended formulas 50% longer lasting color Up to 5 levels of lift
The science Framcolor Glamour guarantees a defensive and restorative treatment for the scalp and hair thanks to a special combination of: 18-MEA lipid - protects the hair shaft 18-MEA lipid is a fatty substance naturally present in hair. During normal daily flat iron use, brushing, blow drying and chemical services, it tends to decrease, causing keratin scales to open. Framcolor Glamour replaces depleted 18-MEA lipid guaranteeing:
Stronger color adhesion Deeper color penetration Restructuring of the hair fiber Hair is returned to a healthy, shiny, natural state
Boswellia Serrata extract - protects and conditions the hair and scalp Boswellia Serrata is a plant that grows in Africa and Asia. Its extract is used to condition and protect the hair and scalp during the coloring process, while inhibiting any client discomfort.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
Framcolor Glamour ensures a uniform result on roots, lengths and ends. Its secret is the perfect balance between the primary color molecules responsible for the color intensity and coverage – and the secondary ones, which give the hair its light reflection. (Glamour shades are pure base colors, calibrated with the perfect amount of neutral, creating the depth and coverage, needed on 100% gray hair while maintaining ultimate vibrancy.)
The results are extremely soft and shiny hair, from root to ends, with NO brown-out after repeated applications.
SECONDARY MOLECULES
PRIMARY MOLECULES
100% GRAY COVERAGE
COLOR REFLEX (Tone)
TECHNICAL MANUAL 6
Protective Coverage Technology
GLAMOUR BALANCED COLOR MOLECULES Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
FEATURES 100% coverage with all shades with no intermixing
Innovative Protective Coverage technology
18-MEA lipid
Boswellia Serrata extract
soft cream consistency
true conditioning cream base with low ammonia perfectly calibrated level system with pre-blended bases that offer vivid results pleasant fragrance 49 shades
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Features & Benefits BENEFITS ready to use haircolor that ensures perfect coverage for gray hair in a full range of shades easy, quick ensures a uniform result from roots to ends, with no build-up protects hair during color process, reducing fadage replaces fatty substance naturally present in hair reduces damage and prevents color loss protects and conditions the hair and scalp during color processing reducing any discomfort easy and quick to mix easy spreadability during application outperforms all competition in gray coverage, conditioning, shine, fadage and beautiful true to base tones integrity of hair protected for future successful chemical services natural, vibrant results even on white hair provides pleasant experience for stylist and client ease of formulation unlimited creativity predictable results
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
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TECHNICAL MANUAL 8
The simple formulating system you will learn in this manual will inspire you to reach new levels of artistry and creativity. In its simplicity, we offer you the most predictable, permanent color system.
If you have any questions about the framesi system, call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323.
The Importance of a Client Consultation In today’s market, professional stylists deal with some major competition – not from neighboring salons, but rather from neighboring drugstores and supermarkets. With a barrage of user-friendly hair color products and simple, foolproof instructions, it is now easier than ever for your clients to walk into these stores and find everything they need to color their own hair. Thanks to this accessibility and the billion dollar marketing budgets behind these products, the perception among many is that they can do just as good a job at home. That is why it is now more important than ever to highlight the personalized service that only you can provide. Through a client consultation, you use your professional training and skill to recommend the right color tone and level – something the friendly clerk at the supermarket simply cannot do. The client consultation is an important first step with every service, whether you’re working with a first-time client or with a faithful client who has been with you for years. As a trained professional, you probably have mastered your own techniques for conducting a consultation. The following are just a few suggestions from framesi.
Five Steps to a Client Consultation
The Client Consultation - the first step for any salon procedure/service There are five steps to a successful Client Consultation… Listen, Share, Clarify, Ask Permission and Action.
Step 1 – Listen Listening to clients requires asking the right questions to not only evaluate their needs but to create a plan of action and support the retail of professional products. Listening is one of the toughest steps for us, because we are so eager to share our knowledge, but it is so important.
Try the following steps for attentive listening 1. Sit on the same level as the client and face them eye-to-eye. Curb the tendency to perform Client Consultation looking at the client totally through the mirror. 2. When the client is expressing themself, encourage them by some sort of acknowledgement, either a verbal “uh-huh” or “I see” or non-verbal cues such as a smile or nod. Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
The Client Consultation
9
TECHNICAL MANUAL
The Client Consultation 3. Do not interrupt what the client is saying. Paraphrase what your client has said in your own words to ensure an accurate understanding of your client’s perception of the situation.
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4. Provide feedback but avoid negative feedback. Here are some questions to help you communicate successfully while gathering information. As you gather this information, it will help you properly analyze your client’s hair type to successfully proceed with the color service. Use a client file to record all information gathered for future reference.
Questions - A listening checklist: 1. What is your past experience with haircolor? 2. Has the hair been chemically treated with a perm or relaxer? 3. What do you want this new color to do for you? 4. What kind of color tones do you like? 5. What is your occupation? 6. What is your lifestyle? Personality? 7. Home maintenance and styling needs?
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
The Client Consultation Step 2 – Share After hearing your client’s impression, it is time to share your professional expertise. Take your time. This is the most important step, because this is where your expertise as a professional comes into play. Analyze your client’s face. Is it Oval… Pear… Heart… Round… Square… Oblong… Diamond? Analyze your client’s features: Eye placement… nose shape… mouth size… etc. Hair should act as arrows, pointing toward good and away from poor features. Proper color highlights the positive and compensates for the negative. Remember that darker colors enclose. Lighter colors open and enlarge.
Be honest with your client. This is the time to discuss the following: 1. The service and in-salon treatments – what it is going to cost and how much time is involved. 2. Advanced booking and how often they need to visit the salon to maintain their new look. 3. Home maintenance – recommend or prescribe the necessary framesi products for the client to maintain their color and for you to guarantee the service.
Step 3 – Clarify Confirm that the client is in agreement with the service they desire.
Step 4 – Ask Permission When the client’s expectations match your own, simply ask, “May we proceed?”
Step 5 – Take Action The service begins!
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
11
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Basic Color Theory All color is based on the Universal Law of Color.
12
The Universal Law of Color states that every color you can imagine can be created by mixing any of the three primary colors: Red, Yellow & Blue. Mixing color and achieving desired results requires a basic understanding of the Universal Law of Color. Haircolor may be warm or cool, based on the amount of Red, Yellow or Blue contained in each color. When you combine primary colors (Red, Yellow & Blue), you create secondary colors (Orange, Green & Violet). When you combine a primary color with a secondary color, you create tertiary colors (Red-Orange, Red-Violet, Yellow-Orange, Yellow-Green, Blue-Violet & Blue-Green).
Primary Colors Red Yellow Blue
Secondary Colors Orange Green Violet
Tertiary Colors Red-Orange Red-Violet Yellow-Orange Yellow-Green Blue-Violet Blue-Green
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
The Color Wheel The color wheel is a tool used to help visualize color theory. The three primaries are arranged around the wheel, with their secondary and tertiary colors between them. Colors directly across the wheel from each other are complimentary colors (opposites). Notice that the complimentary color of a primary color is always a secondary color. Mixing a color with its opposite always results in “browning out”. By mixing a primary with a complimentary secondary color, you are really mixing all three primary colors. When coloring hair, you must determine whether you want to enhance or refine the color remaining in the hair. To enhance remaining color, use colors in the same sector on the color wheel. To counteract or refine remaining color, choose a color from across the color wheel.
YELLOW
GREEN
Y/G
.3
ORANGE
Y/O
.1
.4
B/G
R/O
.5
.2 BLUE
B/V
.6
R/V
RED
VIOLET Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
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TECHNICAL MANUAL
European + International Number System Framesi uses both the European and International Numbering System to identify the shades of Framcolor Glamour.
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Numbering System ._ = Natural .1 = Green .2 = Blue .3 = Yellow .4 = Orange .5 = Red .6 = Violet
The coding of Framcolor Glamour consists of 1, 2 or 3 numbers.
Example: 7.34 The number preceding the “.” designates the level of the color.
Example: 7.34 = Level 7
Level System 1. Black 2. Black/Brown 3. Dark Brown 4. Medium Brown 5. Light Brown 6. Dark Blonde 7. Medium Blonde 8. Light Blonde 9. Very Light Blonde 10. Platinum Blonde Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
European + International Number System The numbers following the “.” designates the tones of the color.
Example: 7.34 = Level 7, gold-copper (Yellow-Orange) The first number following the “.” designates the primary tone of the color.
Example: 7.34 = gold (Yellow) (see pg. 14) The second number following the “.” designates the secondary tone of the color.
Example: 7.34 = copper (Orange) (see pg. 14)
PRIMARY TONE
7.34
LEVEL
Level 7, gold-copper (Yellow-Orange)
SECONDARY TONE
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
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TECHNICAL MANUAL
Steps to Successful Color Formulation 1) 2) 3) 4)
Determine the Natural Level Determine the Level of the Desired Haircolor Determine the Tonal Value of the Desired Level Determine the Correct Developer / Activator
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Step 1: Determine the Natural Level The Natural Series on the framcolor Glamour swatch chart will assist you in determining the client’s natural level. Simply match the correct color swatch with the hair at the back of the head nearest the scalp. The hair should be lifted slightly off of the scalp. Be careful not to push it flat against the scalp as this will make it appear darker. The level is the determination of how light or how dark the natural hair is. It does not determine the tone. Tone is how warm or cool the color is.
Step 2: Determine the Level of the Desired Haircolor During the consultation phase, you and your client will have discussed the new haircolor you wish to achieve. During this phase you will choose the following: The level of the desired color. Before you can proceed to step 3, you need to understand remaining color, color chemistry and theory, and the lifting process.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
Remaining Color and Lifting: Most haircoloring involves lightening or lifting from a darker to a lighter level. The degree of lift is determined by the strength of the framesi activator you use and the time you allow for processing. In a single process color service, the hair is lifted and color is deposited simultaneously, so you never actually see the lifting process take place. However, at each level of lift, color always remains in the hair. For each level of lift that color is always the same. (See the remaining color chart below.) Because there is always some color remaining in the hair after lifting when you apply the new color, you're actually combining two colors.
Remaining Color Chart Levels
framesi Levels
Remaining Color
10
Platinum Blonde
Yellow-White
9
Very Light Blonde
Yellow
8
Light Blonde
Yellow-Orange
7
Medium Blonde
Orange
6
Dark Blonde
Red-Orange
5
Light Brown
Red
4
Medium Brown
Red-Violet
3
Dark Brown
Violet
2
Black-Brown
Blue-Violet
1
Black
Blue
Refer to the color wheel to determine the base to choose for the best tone results.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Steps to Successful Color Formulation
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TECHNICAL MANUAL
Steps to Successful Color Formulation GUIDING PRINCIPLE OF HAIRCOLOR: Remaining color at lift level + the framesi color base = the final color.
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Your final color is achieved by mixing one of the framesi color bases with the remaining color at the desired level. Note: Remember, when lifting color, there will always be warm tones remaining, never cool tones.
Step 3: Determine the Tonal Value of the Desired Level (warm or cool) True success in mixing color and achieving predictable results lies in understanding and applying simple color concepts inherent in the Universal Law of Color. Remember that all hair (except gray) contains all three primary colors – red, blue and yellow. When hair is lightened, the warmer red and yellow tones are exposed. This occurs because the blue pigment leaves the hair first during the lightening cycle. The tone of the desired color is achieved by combining the remaining color at the lift level with the proper selection of one or more of the framesi bases.
Numbering System ._ = Natural .1 = Ash (green) .2 = Ash (blue) .3 = Gold (yellow) .4 = Copper (orange) .5 = Red .6 = Violet
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
Series
Reflex
Base
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Table of Series / Bases Suggested Uses
(Tones) The Naturals The Ambers
1 - 10
.46
Blue-Violet
Orange-Violet
1. Create neutral, full-bodied browns and blondes 2. Can be used alone for 100% gray coverage 1. Warm brown and blonde shades with a soft, natural copper tone 2. Excellent warm champagne tones on pre-lightened hair 3. Can be used alone for 100% gray coverage
The Natural Ashes
.12
Green-Blue
1. Create cool, natural ashes while controlling unwanted warmth 2. Can be used alone for 100% gray coverage 1. Natural, soft golden tones
The Golds
.33
Yellow
2. Excellent tones on pre-lightened hair 3. Can be used alone for 100% gray coverage
The Copper Golds
1. Warm, golden-orange tones
.34
Yellow-Orange
3. Can be used alone for 100% gray coverage 1. Bright orange tones
The Auburns
.4
The Reds
.52 .56
Red-Blue Red-Violet
.65 .66
Violet-Red Violet
The Violets
The Sands
2. Excellent for low-lighting and toning
Orange
2. Can be mixed with other series to reduce intensity 3. Can be used alone for 100% gray coverage
.36
Yellow-Violet
1. Intense red tones 2. Can be mixed with other series to reduce intensity 3. Can be used alone for 100% gray coverage 1. Intense violet (plum) tones 2. Can be mixed with other series to reduce intensity 3. Can be used alone for 100% gray coverage 1. Cool, sandy browns and blondes that create reflective gold tones, without the brassiness 2. Perfect for toning highlights 3. Can be used alone for 100% gray coverage
The Ultra Lifts
(12)
12 - Neutral 12.12 - Green-Blue 1. Intended for use on virgin hair, levels 6 and higher 12.3 - Yellow 12.31 - Yellow-Green 2. Can be used as toners on pre-lightened hair 12.62 - Violet-Blue
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
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TECHNICAL MANUAL
Shades and Where They Fall in the Color Wheel
20
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Reflexes (Tones) 3
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1
4
2
5
6
REFLEXES (Tones) NATURAL NATURAL ASH GOLDEN GOLDEN COPPER SANDS COPPER AMBERS RED VIOLET ULTRA LIFTS
FROM 1 TO 10 .12 .33 .34 .36 .4 .46 .56 .52 .66 .65 12.
(see pg. 19) Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Activators Step 4: Determine the Correct Developer / Activator
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Framcolor Glamour’s Activators (available in 20, 30 & 40 volume) are formulated with coconut oil derivatives designed to work seamlessly with Framcolor Glamour color. It is the combination of the coloring cream and the activator that grants a perfect result, both in coverage and vibrancy.
20 volume (6%)
100% gray coverage darkening tone on tone 1 level of lift
30 volume (9%)
100% gray coverage 2 levels of lift
40 volume (12%)
100% gray coverage 3-4 levels of lift up to 5 levels of lift with 12 series
All Activators 100% gray coverage
Example: Client's natural level:
5 with 50% gray
Client's desired level:
7 (remaining color at level 7 = orange) [see pg. 17]
Client's desired tone:
cool, very little warmth
Determine activator:
30 volume for 2 levels of lift
Client's formula:
7.12 with 30 volume
Processing time for any Framcolor Glamour shade from level 1-10 is 35 minutes. Resistant gray is 45 minutes. Processing time for any Framcolor Glamour Ultra Lift shade is 45 minutes. Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
Prior to the application of color, the FDA requires that you perform a simple patch test to determine if the person is allergic to the color dye. This test is performed 24-48 hours prior to each application. Patch test procedures: 1. The hair dye contained in the package must never be used for dyeing the hair unless a preliminary skin test has been made. The skin test must be performed each time before the hair is to be dyed, regardless of whether a skin test has been performed previously. 2. The dye used for the preliminary skin test must be a portion of the article intended to be used for dyeing the hair. 3. The sample of dye to be used for the preliminary skin test should be mixed and prepared in exactly the same manner and according to the directions applicable to the use of the hair dye itself. 4. By means of a suitable applicator (clean camel hair brush, cotton-tipped applicator or other applicator) a streak of dye not less than a quarter of an inch wide and at least one-half inch long is made on the skin and scalp behind one ear or inside of the elbow. 5. The streak of dye should be permitted to remain for at least 24-48 hours. The test area should not be covered with any type of dressing, and contact with combs, hats, spectacles or other objects should be avoided. 6. WARNING: If redness, burning, itching, small blisters or any other type of eruption appears in the general area used for the skin test during the first 24-48 hours, the individual is sensitive to the dye, and under no circumstances should it be used for dyeing the hair. Hair dyes should not be used when there is any disease or eruption present anywhere on the skin or scalp. DO NOT USE FRAMCOLOR GLAMOUR ON EYE LASHES, EYEBROWS, BEARDS OR FACIAL HAIR. Mixing a Patch Test Follow the directions for mixing a patch test according to each framesi product and formula to be applied. Note: 5cc of cream color equals 4 ribbon inches across the bottom of a framesi bowl. Framcolor Glamour: 5cc Framcolor Glamour color 5cc Activator Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Performing a Patch Test
23
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Mixing, Measuring & Application of a Strand Test Performing a Strand Test Prior to the application of any color service, a strand test is recommended to:
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1. Determine if the client has used any cosmetic or coloring substances that are not compatible with framesi coloring products. 2. Assist the stylist in achieving accurate results by determining processing time and color selection. Mix To mix a strand test, follow the same directions as for the patch test (see pg. 23). Application 1. On a small section of hair, apply formula from scalp to ends. 2. Process according to product directions. 3. Remove color and allow to dry. 4. Check end results.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Mixing, Measuring & Application Framcolor Glamour is measured with the metric system. Measurements are made in units called cubic centimeters or “ccs” (Cee-Cee’s), separated in units of 10. Each tube of Framcolor Glamour is clearly marked in (5) 10cc increments (the 6th is understood as the base of the tube), for ultimate ease of measuring. 1 oz.
10cc ¹/³ oz.
10cc 10cc 10cc ¹/³ oz.
¹/³ oz.
10cc = ¹/³ oz. 1 tube = 60cc
¹/³ oz.
10cc
10cc
¹/³ oz.
¹/³ oz.
30cc = 1 ounce 60cc = 2 ounces
MIXING 1. Squeeze 60cc (2oz.) of Framcolor Glamour cream into bowl. When intermixing colors, use lines on the side of the tube for accurate measuring. 2. Measure 60cc (2oz.) of Framcolor Glamour Activator into a beaker. 3. Pour activator into the bowl. 4. Mix thoroughly with a brush.
1:1 mix ratio with Framcolor Glamour Activator The special texture of the coloring cream base allows for immediate blending. It only takes a few seconds to obtain an ‘easy’ cream that perfectly adheres to the hair when applied.
Color Application Application is the most important step in achieving professional results. Even the best formulation can result in spotty color, poor gray coverage and uneven lift due to improper application. All of the framesi color products are designed for a brush-and-bowl application. The color should be gently applied to the hair, taking very thin partings. This gives the stylist more control of the color placement. Proper placement results in even color, superior gray coverage and even lift. The result is professional color achieved through professional application. Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
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TECHNICAL MANUAL
Mixing, Measuring & Application The three basic types of application are: A. Virgin going lighter B. Virgin going darker C. Retouch
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The type of application is determined by the desired end result. Standard Method: Virgin Application Going Lighter 1. Perform a patch test (see pg. 23). 2. Section hair into four quadrants. 3. Using 1/4 ” partings, apply the color 1/2” from the scalp to where the ends show damage. Apply the color to both sides of the strands, being careful to stay away from the scalp. 4. Process half the amount of the total processing time. framesi does not recommend the use of heat for processing. 5. Using 1/4 ” partings, apply color to scalp area. 6. Process for the full amount of time. 7. When processing is complete, rinse thoroughly with tepid water. 8. Shampoo with Shampoo Go, then rinse. 9. Apply Post Color. Retain 2-3 minutes. Rinse. 10. Finish with any framesi conditioner of your choice and style with your favorite framesi styling product. Alternate Method: Virgin Application Going Lighter 1. Perform a patch test (see pg. 23). 2. Section the hair into four quarters. 3. Using 1/4 ” partings, apply the product 1/2” from the scalp to where the hair ends show damage. Apply the product to both sides of the strand, being careful to stay away from the scalp. The activator for mid-shaft application should be 10 volume higher than volume for scalp area. Example: 30 volume for scalp area 40 volume for cold shaft 4. Mix new color for scalp area with required activator and apply (using 1/4 ” partings) immediately to scalp area. 5. Process for the full amount of time. framesi does not recommend the use of heat for processing. Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
6. When processing is complete, rinse thoroughly with tepid water. 7. Shampoo with Shampoo Go, then rinse. 8. Apply Post Color. Retain 2-3 minutes. Rinse. 9. Finish with any framesi conditioner of your choice and style with your favorite framesi styling product. Virgin Application Going Darker 1. Perform a patch test (see pg. 23). 2. Section the hair into four quadrants. 3. Apply the color to the section parts for control. 4. Using 1/4 ” partings, apply the color to the scalp area, then immediately work through entire hair. 5. Process for the required amount of time. framesi does not recommend the use of heat for processing. 6. When processing is complete, rinse thoroughly with tepid water. 7. Shampoo with Shampoo Go, then rinse. 8. Apply Post Color. Retain 2-3 minutes. Rinse. 9. Finish with any framesi conditioner of your choice and style with your favorite framesi styling product. Retouch Application 1. Perform a patch test (see pg. 23). 2. Section the hair into four quadrants. 3. Apply color to section parts for control. 4. Using 1/4 ” partings, apply the color to regrowth. 5. Process for the required amount of time. framesi does not recommend the use of heat during processing. Refer to Refreshing Faded Ends (page 29). 6. When processing is complete, rinse thoroughly with tepid water. 7. Shampoo with Shampoo Go, then rinse. 8. Apply Post Color. Retain 2-3 minutes. Rinse. 9. Finish with any framesi conditioner of your choice and style with your favorite framesi styling product.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Mixing, Measuring & Application
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TECHNICAL MANUAL
Processing Time Processing time for any Framcolor Glamour shade from level 1-10 is 35 minutes. Processing time for any Framcolor Glamour Ultra Lift shade is 45 minutes.
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Resistant Gray Processing Time At times, clients with resistant gray hair will require additional processing time. We recommend the following:
1. Increase processing time from 35 to 45 minutes or 45 to 50 minutes for Ultra Lifts
OR
2. Apply a plastic cap and process under heat for 5 minutes. Remove cap and process for the full 35 minutes.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
At times, we may have to balance or refresh the clients’ midshaft and ends due to fadage. In most cases, Framcolor Glamour allows you to use the exact formula used on the regrowth to refresh faded ends.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Refreshing Faded Ends
Please take into account: 29
1. Ends that are darker than your target shade must be decolorized to 1 level lighter than your target shade (see page 39). 2. Ends that are "ashy" may need to be purified prior to a color service (see page 40). 3. Ends more than 2 shades lighter than the desired color may need to be repigmentized (see page 42). For more than 1 level of color loss: Apply the regrowth formula and process 10 minutes Pull the same formula through the ends of the hair and process the remaining 25 minutes For 1 level or less of fadage: Apply the regrowth formula and process 20 minutes Pull the same formula through the ends of the hair and process the remaining 15 minutes
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Blonding Ultra Lift Shades Framcolor Glamour offers a superior, single-process blonding system - ULTRA LIFTS. The Framcolor Glamour “12 series” is our Ultra Lift Series. This series has been specially formulated to achieve the following:
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The highest lift possible with a single process color. This series will achieve 4 - 5 levels of lift when mixed 1:1 with 40 volume activator. This series is recommended for use on a natural level 6 and above for best results, as it has less deposition or toning of remaining color than other Framcolor Glamour shades.
12 12.12 12.3 12.31 12.62
Neutral - No Tone Green-Blue Yellow Yellow-Green Violet-Blue
Balancing faded ends when blonding When working with Ultra Lift shades, porosity and tonality must be taken into consideration before pulling the formula through the ends.
Mixing ratio for Ultra Lifts: 1:1 Timing for the Ultra Lifts: 45 minutes
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Blonding Bleaching - framesi Makes it Safe and Easy to be Blonde As we’ve seen, the keys to any successful color service are an in-depth Client Consultation and your knowledge and application of the framesi system and products. The same applies to the bleaching process.
The Seven Stages of Bleaching Quite simply, hair bleaches are designed to decolorize hair. They contain ingredients that break down the melanin granules. As we know, melanin is the pigment in the hair, and it must go through seven stages to reach its lightest level - pale yellow. Appropriately, these are called the Seven Stages of Bleaching. They are: 1. Red 2. Red-Orange 3. Orange 4. Orange-Yellow 5. Yellow-Gold 6. Yellow 7. Pale Yellow Hair must be pre-lightened to the proper stage to achieve the true, desired end results. Not all hair will require toning after pre-lightening, so lightening to the proper stage is very important.
framesi Offers the Ideal Bleaching Systems Our bleach products decolorize evenly and readily without leaving hair dry and unmanageable. We offer three excellent bleaches: 1. DeColor B Diamond Powder Bleach, an off-the-scalp, ultra-refined powder bleach with Diamond Technology. 2. DeColor B Cream, the no-dust cream bleach for on or off the scalp. 3. DeColor B Powder, an off-the-scalp powder bleach.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
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TECHNICAL MANUAL
Blonding DeColor B Diamond Powder Bleach DeColor B Diamond is an ultra-refined powder bleach with a texture like confectioners sugar. When mixed, the bleach takes on the consistency of creamy whipped frosting.
32
This bleach offers several advantages: Added oils for. . . a 25% heavier formula that intensifies lightening - faster than any other powder bleach a higher moisture content with NO DUST Vegetable based powder for. . . natural moisture in the hair ultimate conditioning and protection DeColor B Diamond Powder can be mixed with any framesi activator, depending on: the lift desired Amount of Volume of resistance of the hair Desired Result DeColor B Developer / Activator speed of the hairstylist Diamond Mixing DeColor B Diamond Powder
5 levels of lift
2 scoops
100cc 20 volume
6 levels of lift
2 scoops
100cc 30 volume
7 levels of lift
2 scoops
100cc 40 volume
8 - 9 levels of lift
3 scoops
100cc 40 volume
Processing For off-the-scalp use only. After DeColor B Diamond is applied, strand test frequently. Process at room temperature. Heat sources are not recommended. Creamy consistency allows for ease of application. No swelling; won’t dry out. Remove When the desired lift is achieved, rinse and shampoo with Shampoo Go. Tone Prepare the hair for toning if so desired.
Process at room temperature. Heat sources are not recommended. Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Blonding DeColor B Cream All of the advantages of DeColor B Powder in a no-dust cream: Gentle, decolorizing cream that can be used on or off the scalp Leave hair shining and in superior condition Achieve up to 9 levels of lift Bluing agents refine unwanted warmth Creamy consistency allows for more controlled application Special Precautions DeColor B Cream expands when mixed with 40 volume activator. The higher level of activator with the higher ammonia content of the cream causes expansion of the product, which can lead to bleeding and overlap with retouch application. Careful attention must be paid to application, especially if using the cream with foils. Please keep this in mind when highlighting with DeColor B Cream.
Process at room temperature. Heat sources are not recommended.
Directions for Use For Highlighting / Bleaching Desired Lift
Amount of DeColor B Cream
Amount of Developer / Activator
5 levels
20cc
40cc 20 volume
6 levels
20cc
40cc 30 volume
7 levels
20cc
40cc 40 volume
8-9 levels*
20cc
20cc 40 volume *This mixing ratio is not recommended for use on damaged or previously treated hair (tinted, permed, highlighted or relaxed).
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
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TECHNICAL MANUAL
Blonding DeColor B Powder
34
This bleach offers several advantages: Conditions and protects the hair from damage Less swelling for more control Keeps hair healthy so it can accept other color services Stays moist longer for even results Bluing agents refine unwanted warmth Mixing DeColor B Powder 1. Put desired amount of DeColor B Powder in a bowl. 2. Add your choice of framesi activator. A thicker bleach mixture works faster than a thinner bleach mixture. The addition of more peroxide dilutes the ammonia content of the bleach, resulting in a slower lift. 3. Mix thoroughly with a brush to the desired consistency. 4. For off-the-scalp use only. Process After bleach is applied, strand test frequently, removing all traces of bleach to ensure an accurate result.
Process at room temperature. Heat sources are not recommended. Remove When the desired lift is achieved, rinse and shampoo with Shampoo Go. Tone Prepare the hair for toning if so desired.
DeColor B Powder can be mixed with any framesi activator, depending on: the lift desired resistance of the hair speed of the hairstylist
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Blonding / Toning Toning - The Beauty of Depositing Color on Pre-Lightened Hair Once hair has been pre-lightened, toning can create an even more exciting look by depositing new color on the hair. Pre-Formulation for Framcolor Glamour Toning 1. Review Framcolor Glamour Series/Bases (pg. 19) and the Remaining Color Chart (pg. 17). Framesi recommends using levels 8, 9, 10, or 12 for toning purposes. 2. Determine tonal result. Choose a color base that will either enhance or counteract the final stage of lift to achieve desired results. Permanent Toning Formulation Virgin Application 1. Perform a patch test (see pg. 23). 2. Section clean, dry hair into four quadrants in preparation for application. 3. Apply color to section parts for control. 4. Using ¼” partings, apply color mixture to entire strand. 5. Processing time will be determined by the activator chosen. Check frequently. 6. When processing is complete, rinse thoroughly with tepid water. 7. Shampoo with Shampoo Go, then rinse. 8. Apply Post Color. Retain 2-3 minutes. Rinse. 9. Finish with any framesi conditioner of your choice and style with your favorite framesi styling product. Retouch Application 1. Perform a patch test (see pg. 23). 2. Section hair into four quadrants. 3. Apply color to section parts for control. 4. Using ¼” partings, apply the color mixture to regrowth area only. 5. Processing time will be determined by the activator chosen, porosity of the hair and the desired end result. Check frequently. 6. When processing is complete, rinse thoroughly with tepid water. 7. Shampoo with Shampoo Go, then rinse. 8. Apply Post Color. Retain 2-3 minutes. Rinse. 9. Finish with any framesi conditioner of your choice and style with your favorite framesi styling product.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
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TECHNICAL MANUAL
Blonding / Toning Double Process Blonding Problems and Solutions Problem
36
Causes
Solutions
Uneven Color Results
Pre-application stage was uneven before application of toner.
Train your eye to differentiate between yellow-gold, yellow and pale yellow.
Gold Bands
1. Uneven pre-lightening of regrowth. 2. Regrowth over ½”, application should have been treated as virgin.
Apply bleach mixture to gold band when regrowth is ¾ developed.
Previous application on regrowth processed too long.
Lighter bands may need to be repigmentized.
Bleach mixture was applied to pre-lightened hair.
Apply BY Masque for Color-Treated Hair or any framesi conditioner to previously pre-lightened hair for protection.
Lighter Bands
Breakage
Toning Highlights where Natural Hair is Present For toning highlights without lightening the natural base color, the following formulation is recommended:
60cc color 10cc 20 volume activator 50cc water
Processing 5-15 minutes, depending on porosity and desired color results. Adding water to the activator will decrease the activator strength, while still maintaining the same amount of color deposit. The water in the above formula may be replaced with shampoo to produce a color shampoo toner that processes quickly at the shampoo bowl. However, the final color result will be lighter than if the color is processed on dry hair without shampoo.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Toning Suggested Formulations for Toning with Framcolor Glamour Highlighted Tone Pale Yellow / White Pale Yellow / White Pale Yellow Pale Yellow Yellow Yellow / Orange Yellow / Orange Orange
Desired Result Soft Beige Blonde Light Caramel Blonde Cool Sandy Blonde Light Golden Blonde Cool Blonde Bright Red Copper Rich Warm Brown Cool Light Brown
Framcolor Glamour Formula 9.46 9.34 9.36 8.33 8.12 7.4 6.34 6.12
Framcolor Eclectic, a no-lift, deposit-only, ammonia-free, demi-permanent cream haircolor is also an excellent choice for toning highlights. See page 48 for more information on Framcolor Eclectic.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
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TECHNICAL MANUAL
Low-lighting Low-lighting with Framcolor Glamour
38
Low-lighting can be created by using Framcolor Glamour, even on the most damaged, porous hair. The special formulation of 18-MEA lipid and vegetable extract (Boswellia Serrata), assures long lasting, rich, even tones. The hair will feel silky smooth and shine from root to end!
Instructions 1. Choose a Framcolor Glamour shade based on the tonal results desired. 2. (a) When desiring a color darker than 2 levels on hair that has been pre-lightened, framesi recommends repigmentizing the hair for optimum results. Refer to page 42. (b) If warmth is already present in the hair, low-lighting can be achieved in one step by adding red or gold to the final formulation. 3. Process for 35 minutes. 4. When processing is complete, massage scalp lightly before rinsing to prevent staining. 5. Rinse thoroughly with tepid water. 6. Shampoo with Shampoo Go, then rinse. 7. Apply Post Color. Retain 2-3 minutes and rinse. 8. Finish with a framesi conditioner of your choice and style with your favorite framesi styling product.
Suggested Formulations for Low-lighting Level Desired
Desired Result
Framcolor Glamour Formula
8
Champagne Blonde
8.46
8
Natural Golden Blonde
8.33
7
Red Head
7.4
6
Sandy Brown
6.36
6
Reddish Warm Brown
6.34
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Color Correction Color Correction with Framcolor Glamour Open up a world of profitable color possibilities
Perhaps no color service you perform will be more appreciated by your client or, even more importantly, generate more revenue for your salon. This fast growing category encompasses everyone from the client who changes her mind about her desired haircolor or who wants to eliminate too much red to the client who wants to take a double processed blonde back to brown. You and your client will be amazed how easy framesi makes it to bring hair back to a beautiful, consistent color. Types of Color Correction The two major types of color corrections are: 1. Decolorizing – to remove artificial color when going lighter. 2. Repigmentizing – replacing lost pigment prior to going darker.
Decolorizing - When to Decolorize Because tint does not successfully lift tint, decolorizing is needed when the client has darker artificial color on ends than the desired end result (Decolorize 1 level lighter than desired level). Note: Prior to decolorizing, refer to the Remaining Color Chart (pg. 17) in The Art of Color section and find the remaining color at the desired level. Example: Client is tinted level 4. Desires a level 7 color. (Decolorize to a level 8 remaining color.) Formula: add 1 scoop DeColor B Diamond Powder Bleach to 75cc 20 volume activator + 25cc water, or 20cc DeColor B Cream to 100cc 20 volume activator, or 1 scoop of DeColor B Powder, to 100cc 20 volume activator.
NOTE: If the hair has been previously colored with direct dyes, henna, metallic dyes or any other coating haircolor, DO NOT attempt to decolorize the hair.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
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TECHNICAL MANUAL
Color Correction When to Purify Client desires a brighter shade at the same previous tinted level of color.
40
What is Purifying? Purifying is designed to “clean off” the existing pigment from previously tinted hair. When a client desires a brighter shade at the same level, the existing color pigment can affect the tonal results of the new formula. Purifying ensures the tonal results of the new color formula you are about to create. To purify, use the following decolorizing formula: 1 scoop DeColor B Diamond or DeColor B Powder + 25cc 20 volume activator + 75cc water This procedure is always recommended when changing the intensity of tone at the same level of previously tinted hair. Example: Client is tinted level 6 brown. Desires a level 6 red. Formula: 1 scoop DeColor B Diamond or DeColor B Powder + 25cc 20 volume activator + 75cc water
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Color Correction Special Precautions for DeColor B Diamond Powder Bleach and DeColor B Cream When decolorizing previously colored hair, the DeColor B Cream and DeColor B Diamond formulas work much quicker than the DeColor B Powder; therefore, strand testing is very important, and application must be quick to avoid uneven results.
41
DeColor B Powder Decolorizing Formulas DeColor B Cream Decolorizing Formulas
Application Section in four quadrants. This gives you more control over the hair. Work quickly but neatly. 1. Starting at the nape work one section at a time. 2. Apply decolorizing formula and work towards the crown (if there are any darker spots, apply to those first). 3. Repeat with the other quarter section in the back. 4. Do not always apply to the scalp area right away. This ½” will lighten faster due to body heat. 5. Start at the nape (or the darker areas). If the decolorizing formula has been applied there first, theoretically, it will be removed from there first. It is much easier to lay the client in the sink and remove the back while the front is still on versus the other way around. 6. Due to different porosities that may exist in the hair, some areas may lighten faster than others. When any section reaches your desired remaining color, rinse and shampoo that section. This is a normal occurrence. Spot bleach darker areas. What you want to aim for is the most even remaining color possible.
For Decolorizing Tinted Hair
DeColor B Diamond Powder Decolorizing Formulas
Application for De-colorization STRAND TEST TO SEE IF RESULTS ARE WHAT YOU EXPECT before the decolorizing formula is applied all over the head. 1. Determine existing level 2. Determine the desired level 3. Decolorize to remaining color (see pg. 17) 1 level lighter than desired level
Desired Lift
Amount of DeColor B Powder
Amount of Activator
1 level
1 Scoop
25cc 20 volume 75cc water
2 levels
1 Scoop
50cc 20 volume 50cc water
3 levels
1 Scoop
75cc 20 volume 25cc water
4 levels or more
1 Scoop
100cc 20 volume
For Decolorizing Tinted Hair Desired Lift
Amount of DeColor B Cream
Amount of Activator
1 level
20cc
25cc 20 volume 75cc water
2 - 4 levels
20cc
50cc 20 volume 50cc water
4 levels or more
20cc
75cc 20 volume 25cc water
For Decolorizing Tinted Hair Desired Lift
Amount of DeColor B Diamond Powder
Amount of Activator
1-2 levels
1 Scoop
25cc 20 volume 75cc water
3 levels
1 Scoop
50cc 20 volume 50cc water
4 or more levels
1 Scoop
75cc 20 volume 25cc water
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Color Correction Repigmentizing with Framcolor Glamour
42
Also called “filling”, this technique is designed for the following: 1. Tint Backs (going from a lighter color back to a natural, darker color). 2. Extreme color loss on ends of previously tinted hair. * Filling is an essential step in producing a natural-looking color with minimal fading. By mixing tint, water and activator, the tint will oxidize in the hair shaft, resulting in permanent, consistent haircolor. Repigmentizing Steps for Tint Backs 1. Determine desired level of end result. 2. Choose 2 levels lighter to repigmentize. 3. Refer to the Repigmentizing Formulas chart (left) as a guideline for color selections, for most natural results. See mixing guidelines for Repigmentizing on the next page. Example: Client lightened to a level 8. Client desires level back to natural 6. Repigmentizing formula used: 8.4 Final formula: 6 with 20 volume activator. Strand test for accurate results. * Special Note: For optimum results and longevity of color, framesi recommends repigmentizing formulas for tint backs. However, if there is warmth present in the hair, the addition of red and gold colors to final color formula may be utilized to achieve desired results in one step.
Repigmentizing Formulas Natural Level Desired
Repigmentizing Formula
Level 8
50cc 9.33 10cc 9.4 +
60cc 20 Vol Activator 60cc Water
Level 7
60cc 9.4
+
60cc 20 Vol Activator 60cc Water
Level 6
60cc 8.4
+
60cc 20 Vol Activator 60cc Water
Level 5
60cc 7.4
+
60cc 20 Vol Activator 60cc Water
Level 4
60cc 6.4
+
60cc 20 Vol Activator 60cc Water
60cc 5.56 +
60cc 20 Vol Activator 60cc Water
Levels 3 or Darker
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Color Correction Repigmentizing Steps for Extreme Color Loss on Ends of Previously Tinted Hair 1. Determine desired level and intensity of tone of end result. 2. Choose 2 levels lighter to repigmentize. Refer to mixing and application instructions below. 3. Usage of the Copper Gold Series is recommended, depending on intensity of series desired.
Mixing and Application Instructions 1. Mix 60cc Framcolor Glamour 60cc 20 volume Activator 60cc Water 2. Apply mixture to required area. 3. Process 7-10 minutes. Strand test for best results. 4. When processing is complete, shampoo with Shampoo Go. Rinse and dry hair. 5. Proceed with color formula using 20 volume activator. Check frequently while processing.
Example Client was previously tinted to a Level 7 Golden Red. Formula Used: 7.4 Activator - 30 Volume Problem: Ends have become gold and will not hold red. Repigmentizing Formula: 9.4 Final Ends Formula: 7.4 Activator - 20 volume depending upon hair’s porosity Strand test is always recommended for best color results.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
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TECHNICAL MANUAL
Service Stabilizers Service Stabilizers Shampoo Go
44
A gentle after-color shampoo for salon use only. Minimizes color fadage with a blend of four surfactants specifically designed to cleanse the hair and remove color residue and alkalinity to stop oxidation and neutralize chemicals after a color service. Restores proper pH.
Post Color Conditioning after-color sealer that totally closes the cuticle to seal in color and provide exceptional shine and finish. Contains peroxide scavengers that remove peroxide residue to reduce color fadage. Its pH of 3.5 restores hair to its natural pH. Specialty Products
Supersmak A mild liquid solution that removes unwanted haircolor stains from the skin.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
The framesi System of Products framcolor 2001 Constantly updated with the latest technology & ingredients, framcolor 2001 is the most technologically advanced permanent color line in the world - Beyond 21st Century haircolor Vegetable Coconut Oil Cream Base - Coconut oil is superior to all vegetable oils in penetrating the hair fiber to minimize protein loss during a chemical service Superior gray coverage Resilience / shine More user friendly Vitamin C Anti-oxidant Fights against free radicals Stabilizes color, preventing fading Preserves youthful vitality of hair Perfectly calibrated level system (11 levels) - Light to dark between each level is more accurately calibrated. More accuracy in formulating Amaranthus Oil Exalts the color of the hair Enhances shine and intensifying light reflection Perfectly calibrated percentage of ammonia and dye required at each level Less damage during color service Less fadage More precise, true to tone shades at each level Pure base colors & Pre-blended colors Unlimited creativity True cream base colors with perfect consistency Superior gray coverage More control of application Over 80 shade selections with 23 base colors Less intermixing Unlimited creativity Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
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TECHNICAL MANUAL
The framesi System of Products framcolor futura® revolutionized the world of professional cream based tube permanent haircolor
46
Vegetable Coconut Oil Cream Base - Coconut oil is superior to all vegetable oils in penetrating the hair fiber to minimize protein loss during a chemical service Superior condition Resilience / shine Less damage (even after repeated chemical services) Pre-blended Xtra Natural Series Extra series & bases for gray coverage Perfectly calibrated percentage of ammonia and dye required at each level Less damage during color service Less fadage More precise, true to tone shades at each level Pure base colors Unlimited creativity True cream base colors with perfect consistency Over 50 shade selections with 11 base colors Less intermixing Unlimited creativity
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
The framesi System of Products Ossidorr® - Developers Ossidorr® is a cream developer rich in vegetable coconut oil and castor oil for maximum protection of the hair and scalp Cream developer Rich consistency Smooth application with shine and condition Vegetable Coconut Oil Cream Base - Coconut oil is superior to all vegetable oils in penetrating the hair fiber to minimize protein loss during a chemical service Superior condition Less damage (even after repeated chemical services) Multiple volumes - 5, 15, 20, 25, 30 and 40 volumes Less intermixing Peroxide stabilizer Longer lasting shelf life and less waste
Proxima™ - Developers Proxima is a liquid cream developer rich in vegetable coconut oil and castor oil for maximum protection of the hair and scalp Liquid cream developer Rich consistency and condition of a cream with the mixing ease of a liquid Vegetable Coconut Oil Cream Base - Coconut oil is superior to all vegetable oils in penetrating the hair fiber to minimize protein loss during a chemical service Superior condition Resilience / shine Multiple volumes - 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, and 40 volumes Less intermixing Peroxide stabilizer Longer lasting shelf life and less waste Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
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TECHNICAL MANUAL
The framesi System of Products framcolor Eclectic the next generation of no-lift, deposit-only, demi-permanent cream haircolor
48
Encapsulation Technology - A revolutionized haircolor delivery system for active ingredients, which are: Color pigments Conditioners Protectants Capsulate Complex Color pigments captures active ingredients for a more efficient and effective delivery • Sugar Derivatives - Moisturize • Vitamin E - Defends against environmental factors to reduce fadage • Fatty Acids - Assist in Vitamin E absorption • Amino Acids - Restructure - Assist in keratinization - Protect damaged areas of the hair for even color results
NO Ammonia Will not lift natural haircolor No odor 32 intermixable colors, true to tone Ease of formulation with unlimited creativity Predictable results Soft cream conditioning base Very quick and easy to mix Can be mixed using the Framcolor Eclectic shaker, a bowl and brush, or even a bottle NO Fragrance Ultimate client comfort
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
The framesi System of Products Mixcolor Crema
framesi’s Deposit-Only Color System Tone-on-tone activator - Transforms framcolor futura® or framcolor 2001 permanent color bases into long-lasting, no-lift, deposit-only color 5 perfectly balanced vegetable proteins Exceptional shine, conditioning and manageability Over 50 intermixable shades with framcolor futura® Over 80 intermixable shades with framcolor 2001 Single inventory required for permanent and deposit-only services Better inventory control
Shampoo GO - Color Stabilizers Contains a sophisticated blend of 4 types of surfactants Reduces alkalinity which forms during coloring process pH 7 Gentle cleansing while balancing hair’s natural pH Professional only Designed to use only on day of color service
Post Color - Color Stabilizers Acidic after color sealers Closes cuticle to ensure oxidation is stopped pH 3.5 Brings hair back to natural pH
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
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TECHNICAL MANUAL
The framesi System of Products DeColor B Diamond Diamond Technology Exfoliation Polishing Light reflection
50
Added Oils 25% heavier formula for intense lightening Faster than any other powder bleach Higher moisture = NO DUST Vegetable Based Powder Natural moisture in the hair Ultimate condition & protection
DeColor B Cream On or off scalp bleaching cream Gentle enough on scalp yet effective in lightening Conditioning cream formula Stays moist and does not swell during processing More control of application Protective oil Moisturizes hair through complete lightening process while minimizing scalp irritation Bluing agents Assist in refining unwanted warmth while lifting
DeColor B Powder Conditioning thickener Mixes to a very thick consistency Stays moist throughout application and processing Bluing agents Assist in refining unwanted warmth while lifting
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
NOTES
51
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
The Perfect Harmony of
Nature
Science
&
52
A Lifetime of Fulfilling Performance Promises . . . JUST FOR YOU The Framesi Hair Treatment line is a collection of product-based programs so performance driven that results are often immediate and, even more often, life changing. Created by the framesi Research Laboratories in Milano, Italy, Framesi Hair Treatment line is another fulfillment of our promise to you – a promise of predictability, integrity and innovation JUST FOR YOU, the hairdresser.
The perfect harmony of science and nature Framesi combines unmatched formulation expertise with nature’s most healing, beneficial ingredients to create Framesi Hair Treatment line, a collection of product-based programs that offer superior solutions to repair scalp and hair problems, and products for the daily maintenance of color-treated hair. Undiluted formulas contain high concentrations of vital ingredients from the Mediterranean basin, shea butter, Vitamins H, B, C and E, royal jelly and propolis, all meticulously blended with a unique and acclaimed know-how. This is how framesi fulfills its promise to you.
The Framesi Hair Treatment Line Promise Our promise to you: The Framesi Hair Treatment line will perform with a higher efficacy than any treatment product you have ever tried. Experience the legitimacy of the first treatment line backed by the framesi promise and provide your clients with real solutions for problems of the scalp and hair. Finally, a treatment line that actually works, or your money back. Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Framesi Hair Treatment Line Programs Targeted programs that offer superior solutions to repair all scalp and hair problems, and daily maintenance of color-treated hair. 53
INTENSIVE CARE TREATMENT Program Designed for itchy, irritated scalp. DRY SCALP TREATMENT Program Designed for dry, flaky scalp. HAIR FOLLICLE RELEASE TREATMENT Program
Exfoliating Treatment Stress Relieving Treatment Dry Scalp Shampoo Dry Scalp Drops Dry Scalp Fluid Hair Follicle Release Shampoo Hair Follicle Release Drops
Designed for fragile, weak, thinning hair.
Hair Follicle Release Fluid
OILY HAIR & SCALP TREATMENT Program
Oily Hair Shampoo
Designed for oily hair and scalp. RESTRUCTURING TREATMENT Program Designed for damaged, dehydrated hair.
COLOR TREATED HAIR Program Designed to protect and prolong the color of color treated hair. VOLUME RICH Program Designed to give exceptional volumize to fine, thin, color treated hair. SUBLÌMIS ARGAN OIL Liquid gold that nourishes the hair.
Restructuring Shampoo Restructuring Mask Restructuring Oil Corrective Moisturizing Fluid Shampoo for Color Treated Hair Mask for Color Treated Hair Serum for Color Treated Hair Volumizing Shampoo Volumizing Mousse Conditioner Volumizing Thermal Spray
Sublìmis Argan Oil
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Intensive Care Treatment Program
54
Two products that prepare the scalp and hair for all other treatment programs. Formulated with Mediterranean Pomegranates to calm, detoxify and cleanse.
Exfoliating Treatment A gentle emulsion enriched with microgranules, that remove the tiniest residues of products, sebum and dandruff. Can be used on all clients for prevention of scalp problems and as an anti-aging treatment.
Stress Relieving Treatment A moisturizing mask with an immediate soothing effect on irritated skin. Instant relief from burning and itching. Ideal treatment after a haircolor service. great for added in-salon massage services.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Dry Scalp Treatment Program Formulated with Mediterranean Sicilian Blood Oranges to offer natural antiseptic and astringent properties along with antioxidants to prevent dry scalp. 55
Dry Scalp Shampoo A mild shampoo that effectively alleviates symptoms of dry scalp. Restores the scalp’s natural moisture balance and keeps scalp and hair free of dandruff.
Dry Scalp Drops Intensive treatment drops that focus on the underlying causes of dry scalp and its symptoms. Immediately visible results while refreshing the scalp.
Dry Scalp Fluid A maintenance treatment fluid, effective in delaying the reoccurrence of dry scalp and its symptoms, and prolongs the beneficial results of the Dry Scalp Drops.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL 56
Hair Follicle Release Treatment Program Formulated with Mediterranean Blueberries to nourish and stimulate bulb metabolism and cellular activity, creating an environment for thicker, stronger hair and hair growth. Effective for strengthening fragile, thinning hair. Hair Follicle Release Shampoo A gentle cleanser that nourishes and fortifies the hair and scalp. Keeps scalp and hair free of residues (sebum, DHT, etc.) that can build up and block hair follicles, which inhibit hair growth.
Hair Follicle Release Drops An intensive, energizing treatment that delivers essential nutrients to the scalp and creates an environment conducive to hair growth and thicker, stronger hair with less hair loss.
Hair Follicle Release Fluid A maintenance treatment fluid which assists in hair follicle release and prolongs the beneficial effects of the Hair Follicle Release Drops.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Oily Hair & Scalp Treatment Program Formulated with Mediterranean Sorrento Lemons, rich in vitamin P, amino acids and natural acids. Astringent, refreshing, volumizing.
Oily Hair Shampoo A cleansing shampoo that regulates oil (sebum) secretion without drying the scalp. Hair stays cleaner longer, with volume and bounce.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
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TECHNICAL MANUAL
Restructuring Treatment Program Formulated with Mediterranean Sunflowers, offering deep-down nourishment and moisturization to damaged hair, while fortifying the hair from inside and enhancing shine.
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Restructuring Shampoo A specific fortifying shampoo for fragile, damaged hair. Restores and strengthens hair. begins initial phase of hydration.
Restructuring Mask A moisturizing and deep restructuring mask that restores strength and resilience to hair. Strong age-defying and antioxidant properties. For intense recovery, mix with the Restructuring Oil and process with heat.
Restructuring Oil A highly nourishing oil for badly damaged hair, that works on the inner part of the hair. The action is amplified when used together with the Restructuring Mask. Excellent as a conditioning oil for extremely damaged ends prior to haircolor. Corrective Moisturizing Fluid A revolutionary fluid that instantly envelops the hair in a protective layer of shine and condition. Immediate effect of reconstruction and manageability.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Color Treated Hair Program
Shampoo for Color Treated Hair
Formulated with Mediterranean Corallina Officinalis, natural coral algae effective in protecting hair from UV rays and thermal radiation (which damages haircolor and keratin).
Gentle sulfate-free formula offers the utmost care of the delicate structure of color treated hair.
Mask for Color Treated Hair Nourishing mask specially formulated to enhance shine and protect haircolor. “Intelligent” formula: hydration intensity is regulated according to the hair’s absorption capacity.
Serum for Color Treated Hair Lightweight serum with natural nourishing and hydrating ingredients wrap color treated hair in a protective film.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
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TECHNICAL MANUAL
Volume Rich Program
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Formulated with Mediterranean Sericina Silk Protein, a natural protein that adheres perfectly to the hairshaft, creating a protective, volumizing and shine enhancing overlay, that protects haircolor from fading.
Volumizing Shampoo Gentle sulfate-free formula that cleanses fine hair, with balanced conditioners and thermal protectants that will not add weight or build up on the hair.
Volumizing Mousse Conditioner Revolutionary rinse-out volumizing foam emulsion that nourishes hair with its specialized light-weight formula.
Volumizing Thermal Spray A volumizing thermal protective spray that reduces humidity loss during drying, preventing dehydration.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Sublìmis Argan Oil SUBLÌMIS ARGAN OIL combines the incomparable virtues of Argan Oil with a blend of vitamins, conditioners and protective filters. This make its formula universal and perfect for the diverse needs of the hair: • dry, fragile hair regains flexibility and hydration • treated hair is restructured and revitalized • mature hair finds a powerful anti-ageing ally
Sublìmis Argan Oil Amber-colored, transparent and scented, SUBLÌMIS ARGAN OIL instantly bestows an enveloping sensation. In just a few minutes, its rich and valuable formula leaves the hair exceptionally soft and shiny thanks to its deep-down regenerating effect on the hair fiber.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
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There is a new Generation – one that’s constantly moving, changing & expressing who they are each and every day. When fashions change fast and every new look requires its own unique support, what you need is an up-to-date & diversified range of color safe products. I.Dentity offers all this and more in 5 dynamic communities!
Care Community get defensive Jump.Start Shampoo
Get the party started with this gentle, daily, sulfate-free, moisturizing shampoo that preps the hair for the next style. Gentle yet super effective at removing residue of styling products. It leaves color treated hair rich, vibrant & manageable. Grape Stem Cell Extract is a natural ingredient to protect hair & delay the ageing process.
A community is an interactive space where individual desire becomes a shared reality. Whether you choose a single community or dare to mingle within a few communities, I.Dentity has what you are looking for, for any given style.
Restore.It Conditioner
A quick fix for a hair hangover. A lightweight, yet powerful conditioner, designed specifically for hair that is constantly styled & over-played. Recover from last night’s style. Bring hair back to life with the Grape Stem Cell Complex. Hair will be hydrated & ultra smooth. Weightless.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Volume Community full blown
Curl Community killer curves
Look@Me
X.Alt
Volumizing lotion
Curl exalter
Bigger is better. Amp it up with this indulgent volumizing & bodifying lotion that screams “Look at me”! Hair volume is amplified & static eliminated, to leave the hair pumped up with touchable texture. Grape Stem Cell Complex provides ultimate shine. Weightless, will not build up.
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Bend the rules! Entice those knotty curls to be well behaved. A silky texture cream to define, separate curls & tame the frizzies. Unruly ringlets find killer definition without stiffness. Grape Stem Cell Complex creates silky, sultry locks that stay smooth all day. Provides lift if applied at the roots. Humidity resistant.
X.Pand Volumizing cream
Xs.Twist Curl enhancer
Expand your hair-rizon. An extreme volumizing cream with a medium hold. Moisturizes, adds massive volume & leaves hair tossable. Boosts fine & lifeless hair, giving fierce support at the roots for lasting, full blown volume. Grape Stem Cell Complex introduces moisture to instantly score younger looking tresses.
When killer curves crash... a fab fluid that embraces natural curly textures, leaving it soft, light & manageable. On dry hair it regenerates & re-defines curls the day after . . . styling. Grape Stem Cell Complex energizes & tightens exhausted curls the day after washing. Can also be used before styling for bold, exciting definition, eliminating frizz. Works on all types of hair.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Smooth Community smooth moves Protect.It 64
Thermal protector
Be smart, use protection. Don’t get yourself into a hot mess. This leave-in conditioning spray is designed to shield hair from the heat of flat irons & other hot styling tools. Fight the fade & add sheen while Grape Stem Cell Complex gives ultimate protection. Lock in natural hydration & shield from humidity.
Hair.Force Instant straightener
Force defiant hair to straighten up. This instant straightening fluid transforms unruly hair. Smooth things over with Grape Stem Cell Complex so the hair is glossy, revitalized & totally frizz free. Humidity resistant, so fiercely straight styles last all day & into the night.
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Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
Shape Community show off
Shape Community tough enough
Shine.on
Stay.Stuck
Dual purpose wax
Mousse wax
Flaunt the fringe & piece out the perfect strands & quench super thirsty hair with this hydrating wax. Steal the spotlight with radiant shine & condition. Grape Stem Cell Complex projects ultimate glitz & glam. Tames frizzy ends.
Hard core texture with maxxxed out hold. This unique mousse wax rocks any style, adding shine & definition. Creativity fuzed with Stay.Stuck, results in tricked out shapes & styles. Ideal for straight or curly hair. Grape Stem Cell Complex creates radiant shine without build-up.
3D.Show Molding wax
Rock out the inner drama queen. Shape & re-mold with this medium hold elastic strand pomade. Dramatize the look with moveable texture & definition. Grape Stem Cell Complex hydrates the hair while creating a dry, matte finish. Set.Up Clay styling paste
Set the style up with intense texture & fierce dimension. A clay styling paste with a semi-matte finish & hold of epic proportion. Perfect for blunt cuts, angular lines & spiky styling. Grape Stem Cell Complex maintains healthy hair with a solid yet pliable hold.
Hold.Up Super hold hair spray
Get a grip. Fasten the perfect style & don’t flake out. This non-aerosol, super hold spray maintains the look & shine of any hairstyle, without the tacky feel. Toughen up & show hair who’s boss. Take control, the more you pump, the harder the hold. Guard the hair with Grape Stem Cell Complex which protects from daily & environmental villains. * 55% VOC
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
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BY framesi™ BY framesi is a collection of the best, most performance-driven, color safe styling products on the market today. Eleven unique formulas can be used alone or combined, for limitless possibilities. Two shampoos and two conditioners for color-treated hair complete the line. With advanced technologies, pearl protein and volcanic ash have been worked into each product, providing the most sophisticated formulas.
PEARL
PU R E A G I L I T Y framesi has taken luminous pearl protein, providing shine and enhancing hair’s natural beauty, to create pure agility. Hydrolyzed pearl protein contains amino acids and vital trace minerals that stimulate the formation of keratin, the hair’s structural protein. The hair is left moisturized and protected from UV rays.
SHAMPOO for color treated hair
• moisturizing shampoo - will not strip color • thermal & UV protectants • weightless
A rich moisturizing shampoo that gently cleanses color treated hair with nourishing pearl protein, which stimulates the formation of keratin.
CONDITIONER for color treated hair
• weightless • prevents color fadage • daily, nourishing conditioner
A unique combination of vitamins and pearl protein that work in synergy, leaving hair youthful and shiny.
WIO STRAIT BALM™ straightening lotion
• blocks humidity • smoothes even the most rebellious hair types • thermal protectant
A unique formulation with pearl protein and vitamins, which soften and moisturize the hair while adding incredible shine.
GLAZE thickening fluid
• adds body and shine • gives hair soft, touchable definition • anti-static
An alcohol free thickening fluid that contains pearl protein, which moisturizes and adds luminous shine.
SPARKLING MOUSSE LIGHT light hold mousse • adds body and volume • alcohol free • moisturizing
A protective, moisture-rich foam with pearl protein, that adds lift and control to even the most lifeless hair.
MIST HAIR SPRAY LIGHT light hold hair spray • 55% VOC • fast drying • no flaking
An ultra fine working hairspray with pearl protein, rich in restructuring amino acids. Will not build up.
OPULENCE creative wax
• enhances shine • paraben free • thermal protectant
A versatile modeling wax, with pearl protein and natural fixatives which offer great depth and definition.
Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
VOLCANIC WAX matte sculpting wax
A styling and sculpting gel with pearl protein, that enhances texture and manageability, locking in volume, shine and bounce.
A dry, yet workable matte sculpting wax, with volcanic ash, which offers extreme hold and texture without build-up.
• alcohol free • creates natural, flexable hold • will not build up
• powerful hold • dry, matte finish • alcohol free
MIST HAIR SPRAY STRONG strong hold spray
SLUSH GLOSS shine serum
• smoothes split ends and frizz • alcohol free • adds softness, manageability and shine
A shine enhancing serum rich in pearl protein, taming fly-aways and easily blends with other products.
LAVA
UNCOMPRO M I S E D S T R E N G T H framesi has harnessed volcanic ash protecting and holding style with distinction, to provide uncompromised strength. Volcanic ash preserves regenerating powers that stimulate cell renewal. The essential minerals in volcanic ash fortify, remineralize, and restructure the hair to leave it healthier while enhancing natural shine.
SULFATE FREE SHAMPOO for color treated hair • will not strip color • a rich, lathering shampoo • weightless
A sulfate free shampoo offering a thick, luxurious formula with volcanic ash and vitamins, leaving the hair shiny, healthy and in superior condition.
• 55% VOC • will not build up or flake • provides ultimate hold
A fast-drying aerosol with an extra-firm hold. This ultra-fine spray contains vitamins and volcanic ash which fortifies the structure of the hair.
HYDRO-GEL STRONG Strong hold gel
• ultimate hold • remineralizes the hair, leaving no residue • volumizes and enhances shine
An exclusive, easy to apply formula that moisturizes, restructures and restores shine during setting, thanks to the efficacy of volcanic ash derivatives.
SPARKLING MOUSSE STRONG strong hold mousse • exceptional hold, volume and shine • alcohol free • preserves integrity of the hair
A moisture-rich foam, formulated to protect & moisturize while creating ultimate hold, volume and shine. Volcanic ash fortifies the hair, providing extra strong hold & support.
MASQUE for color treated hair
• rebuilds damaged hair • improves manageability • thermal and UV protectants
An elegant formulation of rich proteins, vitamins and volcanic ash restructure and rebuild damaged hair, providing it with body, strength and shine. Questions? Call our toll-free Technical Assistance at 1.800.245.6323 or visit www.framesiglamour.com.
TECHNICAL MANUAL
HYDRO-GEL LIGHT light hold gel
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©2012 framesi North America 17 Avenue A Leetsdale, PA 15056 framesi Technical Assistance 1.800.245.6323 www.framesiglamour.com 026325-000 · 01/05/2012