The amande dress

1 downloads 174 Views 8MB Size Report
The Amande dress with its bohemian and chic style is THE summer dress par excellence. This dress with two different fabr
Creative sewing

The amande dress Size 6 to 20

craftinebox.co.uk

To know... The Amande dress : The Amande dress with its bohemian and chic style is THE summer dress par excellence. This dress with two different fabrics will suit every morphology. Its jersey yoke will enhance the bust and the lower part of the dress is lightly flare so that it could hide some curves. The knotted top at the shoulders, the triangular yokes and the rickrack at the bottom of the dress make this dress trendy and irresistible.

For assistance or advice, to follow our latest news, find our fabrics and our boxes…

Boutique : www.craftine.com

Box :

Blog : mail :

Facebook:

craftinebox.co.uk/blog [email protected]

Don’t forget to share your creations and follow up with our community on social networks #craftinebox

craftinebox.co.uk

facebook.com/craftineuk

Getting ready Tools and supply Fabric : 39 x 55 in (possibly 49 x 55 in depending of the fabric)

Yoke fabric : 23 x 57 in

Sewing machine

The yoke has to be done with Jersey, and a cotton one preferably. The rest of the dress is to be done with a non extensible fabric.

Pins

Scissors

Iron

PDF PATTERN : HOW TO ASSEMBLE Open the pattern file with Acrobat Reader and check the “Real Size” box before you press print (do not adjust to the printing area). Once the pattern is printed out, check the testing square and assemble the sheets according to the picture next by. Cut out the frame around the sheets before you stick them together.

mEASUREMENTS To know your size, use a measuring tape to measure your own body and compare them to the measurements in inches in the following grid:

Matching thread

Measuring Tape

Getting ready Plan de coupe

Tissu principal 53 in

Once you know your size, cut out the pieces of the pattern following the line that matches your size. The seam allowance is INCLUDED (0,27 for the attaching stitches, the neckline and armholes — 0,19 in for the hem at the bottom) Fold the fabric according to the arrows. Place and pin the pieces of the pattern according to the cutting map. Cut the fabrics at the edge of the pattern. Mark out the assembling landmarks (either with tailor chalk or by cutting short notches).

39 in

Tissu empiècement 14 in

28 in

14 in

20 in

NB : Ecru stripes perpendicular to the edge appear on the weaving of the viscose linen from the Summer Box 2018. That’s why we decided to position the B pieces this way. In you are using other fabrics for this dress, it might be wise to position the B pieces parallel to the edge.

Get to know technical terms To serge

To empty the angles

Zigzag stitch

To clip

By hand or with the sewing machine, create an oblique finishing stitch on the edge of the fabric to avoid them fraying and thus obtaining a nice finishing touch. Sewing machine technique that allows oversewing the edge of a fabric. The seams can be more or less wide.

To topstitch Horizontal machine stitch

realised on the right side, very close to the edge.

Landmarks Lines written on the different pieces of the pattern to help with the tacking of the pieces together, to mark the place of buttons, folds...

To pintuck Sewing a tuck, very close to the fold.

Cut the angles diagonally. It allows you to obtain nice angles once your work is inside out and to avoid fabric thickness. Make clips in the seam allowance when curvy to release the tension of the fabric when turning the right side out.

grainline Orientation of the fabric

when parallel to the finished edge on the roll of fabric. This orientation is materialised by an arrow on the pattern.

Attaching the sleeves When sewing up the

sleeves, it may seem like there is too much fabric to match the armhole. This excess of fabric needs to be dispatched at the top of the shoulder harmoniously. This excess of fabric is necessary because without it, the fabric will be deformed due to the arms pressure on the armholes.

Step 1 : Beforehand 1. Preparing the pieces This dress needs two different fabrics. The back up and right front up pieces (A pieces) as well as the straps (C pieces) have to be made in a cotton jersey fabric. Its particularity is to be extensible. The back bottom and right front bottom have to be made with a non extensible fabric. The pieces in jersey don’t fray so there is no need to oversew. The edges of the pieces cut in the non extensible fabric can be oversewn or stitched with zigzag stitch for a clean finishing touch.

2. sewing notions

But, jersey is an extensible fabric that must keep its elasticity. It is mandatory to do an extensible stitch such as the zig zag stitch with the sewing machine or with an overlock machine. Concerning the zigzag stitch, we advice you to adjust the width to 4 and the length to 1. You will get a small zigzag stitch that will preserve the fabric’s elasticity. This adjustment can change from one sewing machine to another. Don’t forget to test it beforehand in order to obtain the wanted result. The non extensible pieces can be attached with a simple straight stitch. It is also the case for the sewing of a non extensible piece with an extensible one.

Step 2 : Sewing the body 1. Attaching the upper part and the bottom Pin the right sides together one right front up (A piece) with one front bottom (B piece). Help yourself with the A landmarks and attach at 0,27 in from the edge with a straight stitch. Attaching these two parts includes an embedding at the tip. To do so, make a clip of a few millimiters on the A piece at the tip in order to facilitate the tacking witht the front bottom. Start by stitching one side then when you arrive at the tip lift up the presser foot. The notch allows you to pivot and to go on easily without doing any fold.

Do the same thing to tack together the back up (A piece) and the back bottom (B piece). Iron the stiches to the bottom.

2. Attaching the back and the front Pin the right sides together the front and the back and attach them with side stitches at 0.27 in from the edges. Start the tacking of the garments by the upper part of the jersey with a zigzag stitch to keep its elasticity. Stop the stitch once you get to the linen. Fix the sewing machine so that you can sew with a straight stitch. Press the seam open on the bottom part of the dress with the non-extensible fabric.

Step 3 : the neckline and the armholes 1. Finishing the neckline Make a tuck of 0,27 in to the inside for the front and back neckline. Pin it potentially. Do a little zigzag stitch to preserve the fabric’s elasticity. Be careful not to loosen the fabric by pulling it when sewing.

At the middle of the back and front neckline, fold in two places the right sides together and do a little pinch on the wrong side at 45°. This will give a V form to the neckline on the right side.

2. Finishing the armholes Do the same thing for the armholes.

Step 4 : the straps 1. Preparing the straps Fold each of the 4 straps (C pieces) the right sides together in the length. Pin and attach on one of the smaller sides and on the length at 0.27 in from the edges with a zigzag stitch. Let a gap of 0,98 in around one of the end.

gap

2. Attaching the straps to the body Pin the straps to the upper side front and back. To do so, insert each upper ends inside of one of the straps by the gap left, the other side of the strap to the exterior. Pin and attach the three-ply together with a straight stitch.

Turn the strap on the right side, iron well and do a discreet hand stitch.

Step 5 : finishing stages 1. putting the rickrack in place Pin the rickrack all around the bottom part of the dress by positionning it very close to the edge and stitch at 0,19 in from the edge (it corresponds to the middle of the rickrack).

2. Making a tuck Then fold all around the bottom of the dress on 0,19 in and maintain with a stitch at 0,11 in from the edge.

Well done, your dress is now ready !