A Home Full of Fragrance. David Pybus. Chapter 2. The History of Aroma
Chemistry and Perfume. 3. David Pybus. Early Use of Fragrance. 4. The Age of ...
RSC Paperbacks
THE CHEMISTRY OF FRAGRANCES
Compiled by
DAVID PYBUS and CHARLES SELL Quest International Ashford, Kent, UK
RS»C ROYAL SOCIETY OF CHEMISTRY
Contents Glossary
xiv
Chapter 1 A Home Full of Fragrance David Pybus
Chapter 2 The History of Aroma Chemistry and Perfume David Pybus Early Use of Fragrance The Age of Chivalry The Age of Alchemy The Age of Discovery The Age of Revolution The Age of Empire Technique Structured Perfumes, and Use of Synthetics Industrialization and 'Massification' The Age of Fashion
Chapter 3 Perfumery Materials of Natural Origin Charles Sell Perfumes and Odours in Nature Introduction Biosynthesis vn
3 4 9 9 11 15 17 18 19 19 23
24 24 24 26
viii
Extraction of Natural Perfume Ingredients Expression Distillation Solvent Extraction Adulteration of Natural Perfume Ingredients From Natural to Synthetic References
Chapter 4 Ingredients for the Modern Perfumery Industry Charles Sell Economic Factors Affecting Perfume Ingredient Production Perfume Ingredients Derived from Terpenes Introduction Five Key Terpenes Hemiterpenes Acyclic Monoterpenes Cyclic Monoterpenes Bicyclic Monoterpenes Sesquiterpenes Cedarwood Sandalwood Diterpenes Ambergris Ionones and Related Compounds Musks Nitromusks Polycyclic Musks Macrocyclic Musks Perfume Ingredients Derived from Benzene Perfume Ingredients Derived from Toluene Perfume Ingredients Derived from Phenol Perfume Ingredients Derived from Naphthalene Perfume Ingredients Derived from Aliphatic Materials Perfume Ingredients Derived from Cyclopentanone Perfume Ingredients Derived from Dicyclopentadiene Conclusions References
Chapter 5 The Structure of an International Fragrance Company David Pybus Introduction The Business-getting Chain The Supply Chain References
125 125 127 127 130
Chapter 6 The Fragrance Brief David Pybus
131
Brief for 'Eve', Prepared by Business Scents Ltd Background Product Range General Fragrance Time-scale Brief Recipients Price Production
133 133 134 134 134 135 135 135 135
Chapter 7 Perfume Creation: The Role of the Perfumer Les Small
137
Perfumery Degrees of Freedom The Alcoholic Fragrance Development of Other Products Soap Shampoo Shower and Bath Gel Antiperspirant Conclusion Reference
*
137 139 141 141 142 143 144 144 144
Contents
Chapter 8 Measurement of Fragrance Perception Anne Richardson Introduction Market Research Focus Groups Quantitative Descriptive Analysis Sensory Analysis Threshold Intensity Quality Statistical Techniques Psychology of Perfume The Business Scents Brief Definition of the Appropriate Odour Area Analysis of Ingredients to Convey the Appropriate Odour Characteristics Creating Fragrances for the Future
Chapter 9 The Application of Fragrance Judi Beerling The Role of an Applications Department Product Formulations Fine Fragrance Vegetable Soap Aerosol Antiperspirant Shampoo Shower and Bath Gel Stability Testing Humidity Testing Light Testing Assessment and Reporting of Results Bibliography
Chapter 10 The Safety and Toxicology of Fragrances Steve Meakins Introduction
Chapter 11 Volatility and Substantivity Keith D. Perring Perfume Creation and Physical Chemistry Perfume Ingredient Volatility Perfume Polarity Substantivity and Retention Conclusions References
Chapter 12 Natural Product Analysis in the Fragrance Industry Robin Clery Introduction Natural Product Analysis The Traditional Approach The Headspace Approach Analytical Techniques Used in the Fragrance Industry Extraction Gas-Liquid Chromatography Preparative Liquid Chromatography Positive Identification Headspace Collection References
xi
174 177 178 179 182 183 185 186 186 186
188 188 189 193 197 200 201
202 202 202 203 204 206 206 207 211 212 213 215
xii
Contents
Chapter 13 Chemoreception Charles Sell
216
Background Theories Biological Facts Misconceptions Conclusions References Further Reading
216 217 220 223 225 226 226
Chapter 14 Electronic Odour Sensing Jenny Oliver Introduction Electronic Aroma-sensing Systems Possible Uses of an Electronic Odour-sensing System Conclusion References
Chapter 15 The Search for New Fragrance Ingredients Karen Rossiter Introduction The Need The Search Clues from Nature Serendipity Synthesis of Analogues Structure-Activity Relationships The Hansch Approach The Osmophore Approach Pattern Recognition Ligand-Olfactory Receptor Modelling Summary
Chapter 16 The Brief Submission David Pybus and Les Small Marketing Platform Djinni Concept Fragrance Description of 'Djinni' Head and Top Notes: Fruity-Citrus Middle and Heart Notes: Watery Muguet (Lily of the Valley) Base and Foundation Notes: Powdery Amber Overall Composition Epilogue Appendix I
