Sep 22, 2013 - Barcelona, June 16-20, 2014 ... Cava & Hotel MasTinell, Vilafranca del Penedès, Catalunya, España .... 2014), so referring plays the main part. ...... una pos experiencia, en la mayoría de ellos, a la vuelta a su lugar de origen ...
3rd INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS UNESCO CHAIR UNITWIN Network "Culture, Tourism, Development" - TOURISM AND GASTRONOMY HERITAGE. FOODSCAPES, GASTROREGIONS AND GASTRONOMY TOURISM Barcelona, June 16-20, 2014 http://tourismandgastronomycongress.weebly.com/ Working Group 3 Groupe de Travail 3 Grupo de Trabajo 3 Grup de Treball 3
WINE TOURISM - OENOTOURISME ENOTURISMO - ENOTURISME
ABSTRACTS – RÉSUMÉS - RESÚMENES – RESUMS Dr. Juan Carlos MATAMALA, Zaida SEMPRÚN & Dr. Jordi TRESSERRAS (Coord.) Org:
With the support / Avec la collaboration / Con la colaboración / Amb la col·laboració :
WG 3 - WINE TOURISM – OENOTOURISME - ENOTURISMO – ENOTURISME ENGLISH – INGLÉS - ANGLÈS Cultural landscapes of the vine and wine in the Mediterranean Dr Antonella Pellettieri, Dr Giuseppe Chiurazzi, Marcello Corrado & Nicola Ruggieri, IBAM -CNR Institute for Archaeological and Monumental Heritage - National Research Council , Tito Scalo (PZ) , Italy Wine tourism service encounters: factors around the purchase amount in a small winery Yury Ustrov, Mireia Valverde & Gerard Ryan, “Human Factor, Organisations and Markets” research group, Universitat Rovira i Virgili, Tarragona, Catalonia, Spain Shaping cultural identity: intangible cultural heritage and wine tourism in Southern Balkans Teodora Konach, Jagiellonian University Cracow, Cracow, Poland Heritage and gastronomy tourism in the context of the future food and wine events and festivals: the case of Istrian “Malvasia Festival” Dr Aleš Gačnik & Dr Simon Kerma, University of Primorska, Faculty of Tourism Studies – Turistica, Portoroz, Slovenia Wine tourism in Poland – determinants and development trends Dr Joanna Poczta, Department of Cultural Foundations of Tourism, Faculty of Tourism and Recreation, University of Physical Education in Poznan, Poznan, Poland Between Vineyards, Wine and Wine Tourism: Enhancing Regional Tourism through a ”Service Network” Yoel Mansfeld & Noa Shor, Centre for Tourism, Pilgrimage and Recreation Research and Department of Geography & Environmental Studies, University of Haifa, Israel Wine Tourism: A Case Study of Red Mountain American Viticultural Area, Washington Dr Barbara Masberg, Recreation and Tourism Program, Central Washington University, Ellensburg, WA, USA In search of authenticity in an emerging wine tourism market: Europeans in Myanmar Jacqueline Dutton, University of Melbourne, Australia FRENCH – FRANCÉS – FRANCÈS Effets performatifs du patrimoine vinicole sur l’expérience narrative perçue du territoire Laurent Sempé, IUT Périgueux-Bordeaux 4 – Gestion Urbaine, Laboratoire Markirgo Bordeaux 4, Bordeaux, France Jean-Paul Seloudre, IUT Périgueux-Bordeaux 4 – Gestion Urbaine, Laboratoire MICA Bordeaux 3, Bordeaux, France La construction d’une destination oenotouristique au sein du Val de Loire Patrimoine mondial : les vignobles de Chinon, Bourgueil et Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil Xavier Decelle & Sébastien Jacquot, EIREST, Université Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne, Paris, France
2
Les retombées économiques du label « Vignobles et Découvertes » dans le Val de Loire Nathalie Avallone & Christine Ferrer Klajman, Université François Rabelais, Tours, France Le train, outil de promotion territoriale. Traverser le Penedès et les vignes Soazig DARNAY, Paysagiste DPLG ITALIAN – ITALIANO – ITALIÀ Il vino parla nei calici e racconta l’identità di un territorio: un viaggio tra le Strade del Vino del Friuli Venezia Giulia Consuelo Parlato, Scuola Dottorale "Andre Gunder Frank" in Conoscenze e Innovazioni per lo Sviluppo, Dipartimento di Scienze Politiche e Sociali, Università della Calabria, Italia PORTUGUESE - PORTUGUÉS - PORTUGUÈS O Enoturismo no Vale do São Francisco, Brasil Tereza Cristina de Oliveira e Oliveira &Walison Fábio Rogério, Universidade Federal da Bahia (UFBA), Salvador, Bahia, Brasil. Novos hábitos para uma nova classe média: um estudo sobre o aumento do consumo de vinho nas comunidades pacificadas do Rio de Janeiro Ivan Bursztyn, Cláudia Mesquita Pinto Soares, Camila Carvalho Ferracioli & Eduardo Rocha Gama, Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, Brasil
SPANISH – ESPAÑOL – ESPANYOL El valor del enogastroturista como embajador de marca Zaida Semprún, Cava & Hotel MasTinell, Vilafranca del Penedès, Catalunya, España Paisajes culturales de la viña y el vino. Aportes para su protección y desarrollo sostenible en la Argentina.
Susana Malnis, María Susana Pataro & Carmen María Ramos, Cátedra Unesco de Turismo Cultural Untref-Aamnba, Buenos Aires, Argentina VINSEUM, Museo de las Culturas del Vino de Cataluña. El proyecto de renovación del antiguo Museo de Vilafranca – Museo del Vino y su adecuación como entidad cultural museística y recurso (eno) turístico Cecilia Jané Durbán, responsable de comunicación y enoturismo de VINSEUM, Vilafranca de Penedès, Catalunya, España
3
ENGLISH – INGLÉS – ANGLÈS Cultural landscapes of the vine and wine in the Mediterranean Dr Antonella Pellettieri1, Dr Giuseppe Chiurazzi2, Marcello Corrado3 & Nicola Ruggieri4, IBAM -CNR Institute for Archaeological and Monumental Heritage - National Research Council , Tito Scalo ( PZ) , Italy
The wine, over the centuries, has been characterized both as food and drink. Besides, due to its iconographical characters is inserted in both representations of "sacred" and "secular and civil" episodes. The "sacredness" of a food means thinking about the close relationship that the man in history has had with elements of livelihood and the total value they play. The importance of the vine and wine is revealed- in an exemplary manner - from the deep bond that the food has in connection with the sphere of the sacred since ancient times. The Mediterranean basin is full of places where the sacred memory of the wine becomes a reason for the story of the men and for men. Therefore, the research work is set on the study of ancient and post-ancient cultural landscapes of wine through a reading that starts from philological, archaeological, artistic and architectural sources . The data set will lead to analyze the importance of the religious value of wine and vine in diachronic and topographical key. In Egypt, where it is certain the spread of the vine and its nectar already during the ProtoDynastic (Dynasties I and II, ca. 3200-2686 BC) the sacred value of the drink goes hand in hand with the expressions of renewal and immortality attested in artistic field in funerary contexts. In the Near East, the Sumerians, in addition to the wine that was very popular and was a symbol of celebration, of joy, of reconciliation and homage to the gods, his fruit and the representation of the vine itself were the result of a divine matrix: it was necessary venerate the plant called "herb of life" and deified as the "Mother Vine."
1
Director of Research CNR- IBAM of historical sciences for Cultural Heritage IBAM -CNR , former director of Institute for Archaeological and Monumental Heritage, former director of the international project of the Department of Cultural Heritage and the National Research Council entitled Territory settlements in Europe and the Mediterranean , a former member of the National Research Council Commission of Experts for the scientific evaluation of proposals for cooperation in the framework of bilateral agreements with foreign counterparts research institutions , scientific coordinator for Italy in the international project Comendas das Ordens Militares : perfil nacional and inserção internacional , scientific coordinator of the project PO FESR 2007/2013 Basilicata MenSALe , Winner of the 2013 international award Universum Donna for the Culture section. 2 Archaeologist , he has, since 2007, a research grant at IBAM–CNR, Institute for Archaeological and Monumental Heritage, the National Research Council, Italy. He has worked with the Archaeological Superintendency of Basilicata, of Calabria, of Campania and of South Etruria. For two years he is working on MenSALe Project, Historical and Artistic Canteens of Lucania (a PO-FESR 2007-2013 project financed by Basilicata Region, Italy) 3 Architect, he has, since 2007, a research grant at IBAM–CNR, Institute for Archaeological and Monumental Heritage, the National Research Council, Italy. He conducts research for the conservation, reuse and enhancement of historic architecture, with surveys and three-dimensional reconstructions of artifacts of historical and artistic interest, with development of platforms for virtual fruition. For two years he is working on MenSALe Project, Historical and Artistic Canteens of Lucania (a PO-FESR 2007-2013 project financed by Basilicata Region, Italy), for the rediscovery of ancient architectures related to the transformation of products such as wheat, olive and grapes for the production of bread, oil and wine, in order to recompose part of the Stories and Representations of Regional Alimentation Culture. 4 Art historian, conducts research, reconnaissance, classification (attributions, dating) and digitization of paintings and plastics. In the present research work has produced a catalog of the iconographic iconological representations of canteens and related food products represented in Lucan artistic cycles, with particular reference to the representation of the bread and its derivatives as well as wine and olive oil .
4
The direct relationship with God is attested in many passages of the Old Testament, the Jewish culture refers to the vine and wine concepts of everyday life lived in relationship with the creator, as evidenced by the "praise to God" from Salm 104(vv.14-15): “14). He makes grass grow for the cattle, and plants for the service of man brings out food from the earth: 15) wine that makes glad the heart of man ... " The world of classical Greek is the one that more than any other has confirmed the supremacy of the wine and its religious value compared to other foods: the figure of the god Dionysus is the one that contains most of all the ambiguity and the sacred value. If you look, then, at the scene of the gods of Greece, immediately perceives that Dionysus is a god different from all the others. He is a god to the side of the Greek pantheon, as evidenced by its representation on the sidelines in the divine procession depicted in the famous Francois vase. The current of research will be to analyze the absolute value of cultural origin and the varied nature of Dionysus, manifested in large number of epithets, which relate to its many forms and divine characteristics: epithets related to its animal and plant vitality, to events and invocation rituals, to places of worship, to issues related to the myth, to its prerogatives and duties of his complex divine figure. The next step is marked by a reading of the archaeological data: going through the iconographic material depicting the god, coming from the richest museums of Basilicata, will give testimony to the value of wine as supremacy over other beverages. The scene then shifts investigating in the Christian world and the Middle Ages, up to contemporary times. Not surprisingly, the "nectar of the Gods", the wine is substantiated in the "Blood of Christ" and due to its iconological character is basically inserted in both representations episodes of "sacred" and "secular and civil." It will trace the history of wine in Christian representations through a survey of paintings with Christian subject: “Nozze di Cana”, “Ultima cena”, “Cena a casa Levi”, in addition to different hagiographic scenes, in which wine plays a fundamental role. The wine, therefore, in the reading of cultural landscapes occupies a privileged position in Christian iconography, not only from a religious point of view but also secular, increasing of significant values across the western art scene. Even in Basilicata, in this regard, there are several traces at the various monastic communities that over the centuries have inhabited the territory. This is the case of Tursi, where in the cycle the Old Testament of the fourteenth century, is depicted drunkenness of Noah, or the representations of the wooden stalls in the choir of S. Anthony Convent in Rivello (seventeenth century). Wine tourism service encounters: factors around the purchase amount in a small winery Yury Ustrov, Mireia Valverde & Gerard Ryan, “Human Factor, Organisations and Markets” research group5, Universitat Rovira i Virgili, Tarragona, Catalonia, Spain
Research into the raison d’être of wine tourism for wineries has demonstrated that revenues from tourist activities can make significant business sense (Hall, 2000; Dodd, 1995; O’Mahony et al., 2006). This revelation incited both academics and practitioners to look into the nature of 5
http://fhom.net
5
the wine tourism service encounter, which typically ends in an onsite sale of wine and winerelated products. Previous studies have tried to identify service encounter factors that predict the purchase amount at the winery. Some of them (Dodd and Gustafson, 1997; Mitchell, 2006) demonstrated that, unlike the apparent importance of the wine quality (product and packaging) and of the servicescape (premises), it is the service encounter quality and product involvement that can be decisive for customers’ purchase behaviour at the winery. Similarly, a group of studies has shown the impact of service quality on customer loyalty (intentions to recommend, revisit and/or rebuy; Thach and Olsen, 2006; Bruwer et al., 2013). However, little evidence is provided on the relationship of declared loyalty and the actual purchase amount. Further highlighted factors to consider are frequency of wine consumption (e.g., daily vs. seldom; Woods et al., 2013) and the group size (Kolesnikova and Dodd, 2008). Service encounter literature offers some other characteristics that we considered opportune to factor in: share-of-wallet (percentage of money spent on wine at this winery out of the whole tour; Perkins-Munn et al., 2005) and transaction busyness that affects service quality (Pugh, 2001; Pareigis et al., 2011). In this pilot study we proposed to extend the current research by testing these factors in one framework via structure equation modelling. The hypotheses to test were based on previous literature (see Table 1).
A total of 253 visitors were approached during the period of January-May, 144 of which provided usable responses (57%). 53% of respondents were women. 53% visitors were from Catalonia, 35% from the rest of Spain, 10% were from the USA, 1% were Swedish and 1% Russian. The average group size was 4 (SD=3.01). The average spend per visitor was €8.68 (SD=€10.55). All respondents tasted the same combination of wines, and, for the purpose of this study, we had asked the guide not to
6
stimulate the sale at the end of the visit (Kolesnikova et al., 2007). For the service encounter quality and behavioural intentions constructs scale reliability, convergent and discriminant validity were demonstrated. Afterwards, the structural model was tested (see Figure 1) with the EQS 6.1 software (Bentler, 2004). The results give support to all hypotheses but H5: the share-of-wallet exerted no significant effect on the spend per visitor. During the model tests we found that two out of three items of the behavioural intentions did not fit in well with the model. The only item that had a significant impact on the spend was the intention to recommend. After this the model achieved a very good fit. This empirical evidence gives support to previous research in face-to-face service delivery, but for the share-of-wallet as predictor of the amount spent on wine and accessories. The pilot study is limited to only one winery, so further onsite studies are necessary to test its external validity, including larger producers. The size of the business may present another bias owing to the intimate ambience created during the visit to a small winery (Charters et al., 2008). Structural equation modelling has allowed us, though, to bring together several variables in one model thus uniting and contrasting the achievements of the previous research. Another problem can be seen in the fee that can detract from the amount of purchased wines (Kolesnikova and Dodd, 2009). For small and not famous winery owners, there are a number of distinct conclusions that can be drawn from this study. In the first place, it does not seem dangerous whether your guests visit only your winery or add more cellar experiences to their travel agenda. Secondly, what does matter is the group size. Consistent with previous research, the larger the group, the thinner the guide’s attention is spread, therefore visitors perceive lower service quality. On the other hand, larger groups give their participants more chance to avoid the purchase (Kolesnikova and Dodd, 2008). Thirdly and nearly classically, better service builds up customer loyalty, particularly their intention to refer your winery. The intention to recommend affects customer’s own imminent loyal behaviour, i.e. the buy. Fourthly, high service quality evaluation or loyalty does not imply revisiting (Dolnicar et al., 2014), so referring plays the main part. And finally, the purchasing behaviour is positively affected by your guest’s wine drinking frequency. Remember about the hedonic nature of the wine tourism (Bruwer and Alant, 2009), so different onsite sales approach is necessary to those visitors who get through your doors for the sake of the mere wine tour experience at your place.
7
Shaping cultural identity: intangible cultural heritage and wine tourism in Southern Balkans Teodora Konach6, Jagiellonian University Cracow, Cracow, Poland
In the last decade the concepts and models of tourist consumerism have become increasingly complex to interpret, mainly because there is a wide variety of reasons which motivate tourism. Since the term ‘sustainable tourism’ entered the economic development lexicon important growth is taking place in this sector in many countries. Currently, agriculture has taken on a multifunctional role and link with tourism is required to protect and exploit its historical resources as a tool of interconnection between local products, countryside, intangible cultural values, their interpretation and re-creation, but also to place emphasis of the communities and the presentation and safeguarding of their traditions. In this context, wine tourism is one of the most dynamic and significant new forms of tourism. Oenotourism obviously links the traditional techniques passed from one generation to the next, it provides people with a sense of identity and continuity, and promotes respect for cultural diversity and human creativity. New concepts have given another dimension to wine tourism, using such terms as ‘authenticity’ or ‘exclusivity’, that have added value to the product and have created a new public and consumer profile. It includes routes through which one can visit different cities, cellars and museums, archaeological sites, and institutions, and also restaurants and different kinds of accommodation that have an impact in the economy of the areas where they are located. The questions which are addressed in this research paper are whether consumption and conservation can coexist, and, specifically, whether the safeguarding of the intangible cultural heritage can be combined with its exposure to and exploitation by tourists. In exploring these challenges, the article will consider such issues as ownership of intangible cultural heritage, rights and responsibilities in respect of intangible cultural heritage, and the preservation of wine 6
PhD student at Institute of Culture, Department of Management and Communication, Sciences and Intellectual Property Law Faculty, Jagiellonian University Cracow. Chancellery of the President of the Republic of Poland. Expert in cultural policy and cultural cooperation for the Chancellery
8
culture as cultural and biological intangible heritage drawing mainly from the experience in Southern Balkans. The direction of this study expects that specific and targeted destination management policies can be an essential tool for the transformation of wine-growing areas into successful wine tourism destinations. On this basis, the starting point of the present research is an investigation into the systems and management structures which wine-growing areas can use to build successful oenoturism behaviours - protecting the physical environment from damage, transmitting knowledge and understanding of cultural heritage and, on the other hand, building a successful tourist industry. Heritage and gastronomy tourism in the context of the future food and wine events and festivals: the case of Istrian “Malvasia Festival” Dr Aleš Gačnik7 & Dr Simon Kerma8, University of Primorska, Faculty of Tourism Studies – Turistica, Portoroz, Slovenia
Slovenia, the land on the crossroads of the Alpine, Mediterranean and Pannonia cultures, is increasingly developing into an important gastronomy tourism destination with fast growing number of food and wine events. Since 1991, when Slovenia became an independent state, a rising interest in local traditions and celebrations, connected mostly with food and wine culture, can be traced. In many Slovenian villages inhabitants believe in heritage tourism development, closely linked with local specialities, local / regional heritage and culture. Following the increased media interest, gastronomy and heritage tourism have acquired a wider dimension. Events have become larger, more complex and more interesting for the media and tourism industry. Due to the lack of knowledge on cultural heritage and gastronomy tourism, the food and wine events are marked by nostalgic and romantic attitude towards the understanding of gastronomy heritage. Uncritical folkloristic approach that focuses on the times of our “grandfathers and grandmothers”, offers no alternatives for the contemporary way of life and future development. Nevertheless, it is the enthusiasm of the local communities that helped protect and develop a number of gastronomic specialities, fests and celebrations in connection with food and wine. The Slovene membership in the EU (2004) influenced another expansion of food and wine festivals. In addition to Slovenians, other Europeans began do discover the beauties of the country, not only the green landscape, spas and monuments, but also rich and diverse wine and culinary heritage and culture. “Taste of Slovenia” has become an important brand and medium of state visibility, with a fast growing trend of food and wine events and festivals. This is clearly reflected in the country’s gastronomy and its national strategy (2006), which provides 24 gastronomic regions of Slovenia with approx. 200 representative dishes, 3 wine regions divided into nine wine districts with their own identities and distinct terroirs, 20 wine tourist routes and many food and wine events and festivals. Many hotels, associations, local communities and others organize classic wine events. Moreover, in the last years we have witnessed a lot of innovative forms of contemporary gastronomy events and festivals, which are based on the culinary heritage, culture of wine and contemporary art. The paper presents the typology of food and wine events and festivals in Slovenia. Food and wine events and festivals connect people – local producers and inhabitants, visitors and tourists. In the rural areas, people still celebrate agricultural products (onions, potatoes, 7
Assistant professor, Head of Department of Cultural Tourism and Cultural Heritage, University of Primorska, Faculty of Tourism Studies – Turistica, Portoroz, Slovenia 8 Senior lecturer, University of Primorska, Faculty of Tourism Studies – Turistica, Portoroz, Slovenia
9
wheat, salt, vine plant etc.) and their use through food and wine events. These celebrations are transforming the public image of the villages and their positioning on the regional, national or international gastronomy tourism map. Foodscapes, with intangible and tangible elements of gastronomy heritage, are becoming an important developmental force, a brand of Slovenia as gastronomy tourism destination and the media of international visibility and recognition of wine regions and wine districts in Slovenia. Slovene Istria represents a unique wine district, where alongside internationally established varieties such as Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, two local varieties, namely Refosco and Malvasia thrive. The culture of winegrowing in the area was introduced as early as the Greek and Roman times, however, it was probably the Venetians who brought Malvasia to Istria where it was first mentioned in the 13th century. The variety saw its ups and downs in popularity, but in the last two decades it has become the most widespread and popular variety and wine of Istria, the Slovene as well as the Croatian part of the region. Among the most important factors contributing to its reputation and popularity are precisely wine and culinary events and festivals where Malvasia is presented with other varieties, or the theme wine festival that focuses on Malvasia alone. The aim of the Malvasia festival, which takes place in various Slovene coastal towns every year since 1998, is to present the quality of Malvasia, grown and made in vineyards of Slovene and Croatian Istria, Goriška Brda, the Karst, the Vipava Valley and the neighbouring regions in Italy. The festival contributes significantly to its visibility and popularity as well as its promotion on the regional, national and international level. Malvasia is becoming a medium of communication and modern-day symbol of Istria as a cross-border wine region and a cross-border tourist destination. Moreover, it is becoming a prototype of cross-border integration of European nations where we will not talk of Croatian and Slovene Malvasia, but simply of Istrian Malvasia. Tourism and gastronomy heritage of Europe not only represent the diversity of European cultures and the history of Europe, but also have an important role in shaping the European identity. Its protection, communication and sustainable development are closely associated with the future mission of creative and innovative food and wine events and festivals, based on gastronomy heritage and culture. Keywords: gastronomy heritage, gastronomy tourism, heritage tourism, food events and festivals, wine events and festivals, Malvasia, Istria, Slovenia
Wine tourism in Poland – determinants and development trends Dr Joanna Poczta9, Department of Cultural Foundations of Tourism, Faculty of Tourism and Recreation, University of Physical Education in Poznan, Poznan, Poland
Rural areas are not only obliged to produce and supply food for the cities. Their image is now created by a tourism product, which includes: natural environment, natural and cultural landscape and local culture. Over the last years wine tourism has become more and more
9(PhD)
Assistant Professor in the Department of Cultural Foundations of Tourism, Faculty of Tourism and Recreation in The University of Physical Education in Poznan. In March 2011, gave a series of lectures on cultural tourism in CETA University College of Tourism in Barcelona as a part of the Erasmus program for teachers. She is the author of several publications in the field of tourism and recreation. Her research interests include ecotourism, agritourism and its social and cultural impact, research work deals with determinants of natural and cultural tourism activities, sociocultural aspects of tourism development especially in rural areas. He is also interested in exploring the Polish countryside in the context of rural tourism and wine tourism.
10
popular, even in those countries, which were not traditionally considered wine countries. In Poland wine tourism is a new and dynamic phenomenon copying successfully the resolution from the West. Setting up particularly oriented agro-tourism farms (e.g. wine agro-tourism farms) can be a means to transform and modernize the rural households and, equally, a great opportunity for the owners to improve their financial situation and status of life. Wine tourism defined as enotourism provides the opportunities of local development, especially for the areas of natural predispositions to wine making. It also constitutes an integral part of culinary tourism. As the number of participating tourists is not high and as those tourists have influence on tourist activation of rural areas, the term ‘sustainable tourism’ is also sometimes used to define this branch. Those who are keen on wine-tourism not only look for an opportunity to taste wine but also want to know local wine traditions such as cultivating grapevines, picking grapes and producing wine. They expect a comprehensive tourist product to satisfy their ‘enotourist’ curiosity and guarantee pleasant leisure time. Being in fashion and enjoying longrunning fame are two main determinants to affect the choice of a destination. This kind of tourism has been developed particularly in Western Europe, in highly developed countries in the scope of wine production and drinking (Spain, Italy, France, Portugal, and Germany). In recent years, also in Poland, a growth of interest in wine making has been observed, which is mainly connected with development of wine tourism. One of the regions of high predispositions to develop enotourism is the province of Podkarpackie, Lubuskie and the west of Poland (Jelenia Góra). There are regions in which are favourable conditions for keeping vineyards. But, there are still fiscal regulations which make the development of small family vineyards impossible to flourish. It causes lack of profitability of wine to production on a small scale. However, the fact of planting new grapevines in Poland is not prohibited till 2010 is an additional incentive for European investors. The aim of this study is to present the significance of development of enotourism in the context of activating rural areas in Poland. Along with the theoretical considerations, predispositions of Poland to development of wine production have been presented. Its development is based on wine production which has been of greater and greater importance. As the example of wine tourism development in Poland and case study of the research work is the province of Podkarpackie, Lubuskie in the west of Poland (Jelenia Góra) which has been playing a significant role in the revival of Polish contemporary wine making. In recent years, many initiatives been observed, including marketing ones, stimulating development of enotourism in the regions where mentioned. Wine tourism in Poland is growing at a very fast pace. Poland currently has more than 300 hectares of vineyards. They found it not only farmers, but also businessmen, politicians, professionals, and even universities. Between Vineyards, Wine and Wine Tourism: Enhancing Regional Tourism through a ”Service Network” Yoel Mansfeld & Noa Shor, Centre for Tourism, Pilgrimage and Recreation Research and Department of Geography & Environmental Studies, University of Haifa, Israel
In pursuit of added economic value, regions associated with food production have been using “rural tourism” (also termed “agro- tourism”) as a preferred economic strategy. Within this framework, many regions around the world specializing in viniculture have implemented a strategy for the development of wine tourism. This process has involved both a transformation of wineries into wine tourism centres and the creation of regional wine routes and wineoriented special events for tourists. In regions such as Tuscany in Italy, the Napa Valley in the US, and Stellenbosch in South Africa, this strategy has contributed substantially to the regional 11
economy and added not only economic wealth but has also created new jobs while reducing urbanization. In these regions the benefits yielded by introducing wine tourism were gained to a large extent due to a large-scale wine production industry that is based on relatively big wineries. There is, however, a question whether such benefits can be also attained by rural regions specializing in viniculture composed primarily of small-scale wineries accompanied by rural tourism facilities operated by small family-based businesses. Apparently, in such circumstances, dis-economies of scale have placed various obstacles and constraints in the way of such a regional development strategy. The aim of the paper is, therefore, to present an alternative solution to this problem – one that can overcome the small-scale family-oriented nature of tourism services and facilities catering for tourists in such rural regions. The proposed economic strategy to be presented in the paper is based on a destination management system (DMO) that is structured around an intensive and collaborative engagement of Small and Medium Tourism Enterprises SMTEs) as business partners in a wine tourism regional corporate. This innovative solution would encourage those small tourism businesses to act as a one-stop-shop, selling all tourism services in the region using an integrated marketing, sales and management system. This system, transparent to all network members, would be owned by all tourism and hospitality providers in the region, allowing regional wine tourism to expand beyond the conventional DMOs known today. Since wine tourism has a proven potential to significantly expand existing and future tourism business, using this proposed DMS platform may create an advantage for wine tourism regions in three possible ways: (a) expanding sales of the individual tourism business; (b) gaining commission from selling services of other tourism business; and (c) shared dividends derived from the successful operation of the regional DMS itself. The paper will use a pilot project that is now being implemented in a wine production and rural tourism region of the Galilee in northern Israel. The Galilee Vineyards Region (GVR) will be used to illustrate the proposed application model of this “service network” system and will describe its planning and implementation process. Finally, the case of the GVR will allow for the elaboration of lessons for an effective implementation of such a regional development model and strategy elsewhere. Wine Tourism: A Case Study of Red Mountain American Viticultural Area, Washington Dr. Barbara Masberg, Recreation and Tourism Program, Central Washington University, Ellensburg, WA, USA
Wine tourism has been described as visitation to vineyards, wineries, and wine festivals to taste wine and experience the attributes of the wine region. However, the basic premise of wine tourism is providing other amenities, events, activities, and facilities to attract visitors for more than “just” wine tasting. Various development and destination marketing organizations pursue complementary business development (i.e. lodging, restaurants, retail, and recreation) and seek ways to diversify the activities of the area (i.e. trails, rafting, or golf) attracting more visitors. Wine tourism has evolved over time as wineries have gone from only offering wine tasting to the development of facilities and activities strictly to attract visitors to the winery. A significant number of wineries depend on visitors to generate all or some of their revenue through sales from their “cellar door”. The purpose of this presentation is to discuss the evolving nature of wine tourism focusing on one area, the Red Mountain American Viticultural Area (AVA) in Washington state and report results identifying attributes preferred by visitors. 12
Washington state has the second largest wine production in the United States and boasts 2.4 million winery visits a year at 739 bonded wineries. The State contains thirteen AVAs (An AVA is similar to an appellation). The Red Mountain AVA is located in southeastern Washington, a 31/2 to 4 hour drive or 200 miles (321km) from the Seattle-Puget Sound area. The AVA includes 4,040 acres (1,635 ha) with 2,200 (891 ha) currently under cultivation. Red Mountain gained its AVA designation in 2001 and currently has 15 wineries. The wine made has earned many awards and has become very well known. The price of Red Mountain grapes is usually three times higher than grapes grown elsewhere. (Maps and photographs will be shown during the presentation) The increasing pressure for development of Red Mountain stimulated a planning process to embrace wine tourism in order to maintain the “agricultural nature of grape growing and wine production while providing facilities and amenities to facilitate tourism”. Red Mountain AVA is seeking the visitor who will travel and stay in the area more than 1 day. As part of the process visitors were surveyed in order to identify attributes they prefer in a winery destination. A survey instrument was developed and distributed via the wineries and on-line using Survey Monkey. Responses were analyzed using SPSS and qualitative analysis techniques. The majority of the respondents were 51 to 60 years old (36.6%) and 41 to 50 years old (22.5%). The respondents were sixty percent (60%) female. The level of education held by the majority was a bachelor’s degree or higher (72.1%). When asked about his/her profession, Management (19.3%), Retired (16.8%) and Technical (16.1%) type positions were the more frequent responses. The majority of the respondents had an income over $100,000.00 (54.1%). The respondents were asked to indicate the importance of items when choosing a wine region or winery. The five (5) most important items were 1) knowledgeable winery staff, 2) desirable lodging options, 3) clear directional signage, and 4) wineries open daily with regular hours, and 5) open year round. There is, however, a discrepancy between this list and the reasons the respondents provided on why they chose a wine region. This was an open ended question. After analysis the top five reasons given were: (a) an event (10.2%), (b) proximity (9.3%), (c) visiting a specific winery (9.0%), (d) visiting the region because of a particular wine (8.4%), and (e) visiting family and friends (8%). The comments reflected other factors that perspective wine tourists considered. These included (a) personalized and unique experience (e.g., uncrowded), (b) quality of the product and the perception that the cost matched the price (e.g., specialty wine, free or limited wine tasting, fees), (c) having additional amenities which create a complete experience (e.g., food and wine pairings, local and unique charm, scenic/ rural atmosphere, chance to talk to knowledgeable winery person, adequate parking), and (d) choice of wines as well as experiences. Respondents indicated that a consistency of a personalized experience of knowledgeable and friendly staff, free to low costs of tastings, and quality wine were the primary reasons for repeat customers. Comments involved wanting choices between a variety of wines paired with amenities (food, quality lodging, and opportunities to do other activities) yet, they wanted to keep the personalized non-commercialized atmosphere. Conflicting results attest to the diverse visitor. Wineries are the core built attraction, but related facilities and amenities are necessary. Red Mountain wineries do not offer accommodations, some of the wineries offer space for events and some offer gifts and souvenirs. The approved plan suggests a “viticultural park” in which a wine village would contain visitor services meanwhile maintaining the vineyard and winery motif. However parsing the results it is seen that some user-friendly changes could be implemented quite easily such as signage, uniform hours and availability, and a well trained staff. The dominant visitor to Red Mountain is a member of the Baby Boom generation. As this generation ages, Red Mountain wineries and the wine industry overall must seek out younger 13
generations who have different expectations. The younger and newer wine drinker should be the focus for marketing and tourism development. Younger wine tourists want more of an experience thus there is more dependence on amenities and regional appeal. Festivals and a more social convivial atmosphere would be a more attractive introduction to wine and a wine region.
In search of authenticity in an emerging wine tourism market: Europeans in Myanmar Jacqueline Dutton10, University of Melbourne, Australia
Myanmar's tourist figures have skyrocketed from 300,000 in 2012 to 2 million in 2013. The country's military regime has slowly been opening its doors not just to tourists but also to foreign businesses, with most interest located in the hospitality and tourism industries. Gastronomically speaking, Myanmar does not (yet) have the status of Thailand, Vietnam or Laos, as most of the better restaurants in the tourist diamond - Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan and Inle Lake - serve European style or fusion cuisine. Its two wineries - Red Mountain Hill and Aythaya - are also built on French and German expertise respectively. Using ethnographic observational strategies and interviews with the winemakers and visitors, this paper will analyse how the message of authenticity is conveyed and confused by the competing traditions - Burmese, French and German. The incongruity of vines in Myanmar is juxtaposed against the intrepid resolve of the European winemakers to market a unique product and experience that draws European travellers into its web. Drawing on theories of authenticity (Dean MacCannell), nostalgia (Svetlana Boym, John Frow), salvage (Michel Butor) and utopia (Debbie Lisle), I will examine the experiences, ideals and interpretations of the emerging wine tourism market in Myanmar, with a view to determining potential neocolonial and/or "disneylanding" (Augé) tendencies. References Augé, M. (1997). L'Impossible voyage, Paris: Rivages. Butor, M. (2007). "Travel and Writing" in Defining Travel: Boym, S. (2001). The Future of Nostalgia, New York: Basic Books. Frow, J. (1991). “Tourism and the Semiotics of Nostalgia”. October, vol 57 (Summer), 123-151. Lisle, D. (2012). The Global Politics of Contemporary Travel Writing, Cambridge University Press. MacCannell, D. (1973). “Staged Authenticity: Arrangements of Social Space in Tourist Settings”. The American Journal of Sociology, vol 79, November, 589-603.
FRENCH – FRANCÉS – FRANCÈS Effets performatifs du patrimoine vinicole sur l’expérience narrative perçue du territoire Laurent Sempé11, IUT Périgueux-Bordeaux 4 – Gestion Urbaine, Laboratoire Markirgo Bordeaux 4, Bordeaux, France 10
Associate Professor French Studies.. Associate Dean Engagement, Faculty of Arts, University of Melbourne, Australia; Director, Australian Festival of Travel Writing &Travel Research Network @ Melbourne. Jackie is a leading researcher and writer on French culture and identity, teaching various courses in French on food and wine, travel writing, cinema, and literature. She has published widely on contemporary French literature, culture, ideas and issues, as well as on cross-cultural French-Australian relations. 11 Enseignant-chercheur en Sciences de Gestion, IUT Périgueux-Bordeaux 4 – Gestion Urbaine, Laboratoire Markirgo Bordeaux 4, Bordeaux, France
14
Jean-Paul Seloudre12, IUT Périgueux-Bordeaux 4 – Gestion Urbaine, Laboratoire MICA Bordeaux 3, Bordeaux, France La gestion de l’image des territoires se fonde sur des éléments de gouvernance tant narratifs et fictionnels que patrimoniaux et objectifs. L’identité qui en résulte se gère aujourd’hui comme une marque, pour des territoires en très forte concurrence sur le marché touristique. Le management public se confronte à des situations de plus en plus complexes : -
Parties prenantes nombreuses (Maunier, 2007) : touristes, résidents, acteurs des territoires, etc. Produit touristique de nature hautement expérientiel (Frochot et Legohérel, 2007 ; Quan et Wang, 2004 ; Amirou, 2012; Le ménestrel, 2002 ; Ladwein, 1995). Nécessité d'une « mise en récit » du territoire (Noisette et Vallérugo, 2010 ; Bourdin, 2005) qui évoque l'expérience de Stendhal (1817) « J’étais dans une sorte d’extase, par l’idée d’être à Florence, et le voisinage des grands hommes… ».
Cette étude portera sur la comparaison de deux scénarios (avec vin / sans vin) de « mise en récit » du territoire bergeracois. L’efficacité du scénario sera mesurée par l’échelle « d’expérience narrative réflexive perçue » (Sempé, 2012 ; 2013) : entre récits des territoires (avec / sans vin) et récits des touristes potentiels. Intérêt du champ narratif Cette recherche se conduit au sein d’un cadre « systémique ». Les « parties prenantes » s’organisent pour la « mise en récit » dans un couple « émetteur / récepteur » (Kahane, 2005). Les acteurs du territoire y « feront sens collectivement » (Orr, 1990) en produisant une identité partagée qui pourrait être manipulée par les gestionnaires de territoires. La question se pose alors de l’identification du MEILLEUR RECIT. De nombreux territoires ont dû optimiser cette « mise en récit » : les villes nouvelles comme Cergy par exemple se sont « narrées » dans le croisement entre récits officiels (une colère de De Gaulle) et fictions (de Saint-Pierre, 2003). Evolution pour le marketing expérientiel La « mise en récit partagée » est prise en compte par le marketing expérientiel. Carù et Cova (2006) donnent le récit, l’histoire et l’intrigue comme un des piliers de la production expérientielle, tandis que Roederer (2012) rappelle la nature proustienne de l’expérience de la madeleine, exaltant la rhétorique nostalgique… Pour le marketing du tourisme, la production d’un récit partagé constitue le socle des éléments fondateurs de mémoire (Arnould et Price, 1993 ; Ladwein, 2005 ; Amirou, 2012) : mais quel récit ? Le vin ? Problématique Nous allons nous intéresser à la mesure de l’impact du choix du récit vinicole sur l'expérience narrative partagée d’un territoire. Nous posons la question suivante : L’utilisation de référents au patrimoine vinicole améliore-t-il la performative narrative pour des touristes ? Nous aurons recours au concept de « d’expérience narrative perçue » entre le récit portés par les territoires et les récits produits par les parties prenantes. Nous chercherons à mesurer l’effet 12
Enseignant Sciences de l’information, IUT Périgueux-Bordeaux 4 – Gestion Urbaine, Laboratoire MICA Bordeaux 3, Bordeaux, France
15
du patrimoine gastronomique territorial sur l’expérience narrative des parties prenantes. Dans le cadre d’un modèle PLS à variables latentes (PLS-SEM) nous comparerons deux scénarios d’étude : 1/ patrimoine monumental seul 2/ patrimoine vinicole seul. Background théorique Nous verrons que deux dimensions apparaissent en toile de fond de la littérature sur la mise en récit des territoires dans le cadre du marketing des destinations : - D’abord des approches qui confrontent les constructions imaginaires des parties prenantes du système touristique pour en étudier la convergence. Kahane (2005) propose un modèle émetteur / récepteur de récits pour lequel aucune des parties-prenantes n’est jamais limitée à un rôle unique. Il s’agit d’une véritable « interchangeabilité des rôles audience / narrateur ». - Ensuite des approches centrées sur le niveau d’intensité expérientiel : la résonnance de la marque territoriale. Quels éléments objectifs et symboliques d’un territoire vont-ils produire un puissant effet de transe ? Bourdin (2005) évoque pour la sociologie urbaine l’absolue nécessité d’une « résonnance des communications » avec l’histoire et la culture des lieux. En marketing, Keller (2010) dans son modèle CBBE, décrit ce principe d’optimum quand des marques parviennent à entrer en résonnance avec leurs clientèles cibles. Hypothèse de travail Cette recherche vise à tester l’effet du patrimoine vinicole sur la construction de l’imaginaire territorial. Nous posons l’hypothèse suivante : La situation « avec » information vinicole territoriale devrait amener « l’expérience narrative partagée » du territoire à un niveau supérieur. Validation empirique Un échantillon de 400 étudiants dans une formation universitaire en « Gestion urbaine » être retenu. La moitié se verra présenter le scénario « patrimoine monumental » du Périgord (autour de Bergerac), l’autre moitié sera soumise au scénario « avec patrimoine viti-vinicole ». Cinq variables latentes vont définir le modèle de structure : -
la résonnance et la congruence des récits pour l’expérience narrative partagée perçue, la puissance, l’intérêt du récit, et l’attitude vis-à-vis du récit (Kahane, 2005) L’authenticité perçue (Camus, 2004) et la différence culturelle perçue (Peñaloza, 1994) L’intention de recommander.
Nous utiliserons le logiciel Smart-PLS (Ringle et al., 2005) pour l’estimation des paramètres du modèle à variables latentes avec la méthode PLS-PM (PLS path-modeling). Un bootstrapping non-paramétrique de 500 réplications (Tenenhaus et al., 2005) pour l’estimation des erreurs standards sera utilisé. Les critères de performance des modèles de mesure et de structure seront évaluées (fiabilité, convergence, discriminance, GOF, R²). Nous comparerons les causalités obtenues pour chaque scénario Nous suivrons précisément l’effet du scénario sur la résonnance et la convergence qui sont les deux dimensions essentielles de l’expérience narrative partagée sur un territoire. Discussion Les managers des territoires doivent aujourd’hui gérer l’expérience narrative des touristes : les deux dimensions « convergence » et « résonance » permettent de valider la qualité des actions 16
entreprises. L’objectif est clairement d’obtenir la situation qui combine de forte valeurs sur les deux dimensions. Figure 1 – Typologie narrative des managements publics
Cette recherche souhaite montrer dans quelle mesure cette performance narrative est manipulable par le choix amont des types de récits racontés sur le territoire. Le vin constitue aujourd’hui un vecteur puissant de « mise en récit », mais cela est-il réellement efficace du point de vue de l’expérience narrative partagée perçue par les parties prenantes ?
La construction d’une destination oenotouristique au sein du Val de Loire Patrimoine mondial : les vignobles de Chinon, Bourgueil et Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil Xavier Decelle13 & Sébastien Jacquot14, EIREST, Université Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne, Paris, France
Le Val de Loire a été inscrit au Patrimoine mondial en 2000, et s’étend sur 200 km, de Sully à Chalonnes sur Loire. Ce bien a été inscrit en tant que paysage culturel vivant, notamment en raison de ses paysages viticoles le long du fleuve. La dimension viticole a été un élément structurant de la candidature, et à ce titre le Val de Loire intègre l’association des bien viticoles Patrimoine mondial, aux côtés par exemple de la Juridiction de Saint-Emilion, des Cinque Terre, de la région viticole de Tokaj, etc. Toutefois, en dépit de ce patrimoine viticole, le tourisme viticole y demeure peu développé. Parallèlement en France des politiques publiques nationales (Atout France) et territoriales tentent de structurer des destinations oenotouristiques, par le biais d’une labellisation des domaines viticoles engagés dans des démarches d’excellence de l’accueil de touristes. La Bourgogne, le Bordelais, constituent à présent des destinations oenotouristiques, reposant là
13
Maître de conférences en sciences de l’économie, à l’Université Paris 1 Panthéon Sorbonne, IREST, et chercheur à l’EIREST. Ses travaux portent sur les stratégies touristiques des opérateurs privés, et les rationalités économiques mises en œuvre. 14
Maître de conférences en géographie, à l’Université Paris 1 Panthéon Sorbonne, IREST, et chercheur à l’EIREST. Ses travaux portent sur les articulations entre tourisme et territorialisation, notamment via la métropolisation, ainsi que sur les politiques du Patrimoine mondial, aux échelles globale et locale.
17
aussi sur des démarches de patrimonialisation (Saint-Emilion au patrimoine mondial, les climats de Bourgogne sur la liste indicative). Notre communication interroge alors le développement de l’oenotourisme sur un tronçon du Val de Loire, entre Saumur et Tours, sur les vignobles de Chinon, Bourgueil et Saint-Nicolas-de Bourgueil. Traditionnellement tournés vers le négoce, ces vignobles s’orientent de façon croissante vers l’oenotourisme. Nous serons attentifs aux interactions entre des politiques de structuration de l’offre oenotouristique (label Vignoble et découvertes, politiques incitatives des collectivités et syndicats viticoles) et les stratégies des vignobles, pour questionner la mise en place d’un cluster oenotouristique. En effet, en dépit des territoires dessinés par les politiques publiques, un tel cluster demeure soumis à des éléments de tension : concurrence entre des appellations appelées à coopérer, rapport centre – périphérie au sein de chaque appellation, territoire inégalement mis en tourisme, stratégies variables des vignerons, etc. Quels territoires sont dessinés par ces différentes modalités du développement de l’eonotourisme ? Notre communication vise à questionner les logiques de structuration de l’offre oenotouristique et ses imbrications avec les enjeux territoriaux patrimoniaux (délimitation patrimoniale) et touristiques (promotion et structuration des destinations). Ce questionnement est croisé avec les logiques Patrimoine mondial. L’oenotourisme se structure-t-il de façon cohérente le long du fleuve Loire Patrimoine mondial ? Les logiques viticoles constituent-elles un cadre structurant de la valorisation touristique, reconduisant les logiques d’appellation ? Enfin, nous examinerons les hésitations entre une logique strictement viticole et une logique qui intègre l’oenotourisme au sein d’une offre plus large, notamment couplé au développement du tourisme gastronomique, cela aussi à la double échelle de la structuration de la destination et des microréseaux constitués par des partenariats entre vignerons et restaurateurs. Les retombées économiques du label « Vignobles et Découvertes » dans le Val de Loire Nathalie Avallone15 & Christine Ferrer Klajman16, Université François Rabelais, Tours, France
Le développement de l’oenotourisme est une réalité dans tous les pays du monde. Cependant, la France, qui est la 1ère destination touristique mondiale (83 millions de touristes internationaux en 2012 selon l’Organisation Mondiale du Tourisme) mais aussi l’un des 1ers pays producteurs de vin, accuse un certain retard dans ce type de tourisme. Isabelle Frochot (2000) a d’ailleurs bien mis en évidence ce « paradoxe français ». En effet, l’organisation historique de la filière en France ne possède pas de tradition touristique (Lignon-Darmaillac S. 2009). L’oenotourisme, ou tourisme vitivinicole (« wine tourism ») embrasse l’ensemble des activités touristiques permettant la découverte des vignobles. L’oenotourisme peut être défini par l'ensemble des prestations relatives aux séjours des touristes dans des régions viticoles : visites de caves, dégustations, hébergement, restauration et activités annexes liées au vin, aux produits 15
Maître de Conférences en Sciences Economiques, Université François Rabelais – IUT de Tours. Responsable de la Licence Professionnelle Commerce, Mention « Commercialisation des vins ». Membre du Programme de Recherche VitiTerroir – Région Centre. Chercheur LEO-Tours UMR CNRS 7322 et chercheur associé GERCIE. IUT de Tours, Département Techniques de Commercialisation des Produits Agroalimentaires. 16 Maître de Conférences en Sciences Economiques, Université François Rabelais, Tours. Responsable de la Licence Professionnelle Commerce, Mention « Responsable d’Activités Import-Export ». Membre du réseau « Tourisme : recherches, institutions, pratiques ». Université François Rabelais, Faculté de Droit, d’Economie et des Sciences Sociales.
18
du terroir et aux traditions régionales (Dubrule P. 2007). Il doit mettre en place une offre touristique intégrée alliant des hébergements, des lieux de restauration et des services dans des lieux spécifiques de la viticulture et de la commercialisation du vin. Hall et al. (2000) vont plus loin en indiquant que l’oenotourisme ne pourra se développer que si des liens sont tissés entre le vin et d’autres activités touristiques comme la gastronomie, la culture, le design, la nature, les festivals, l’art… Il existe un intérêt croissant pour le tourisme vitivinicole en France, et notamment dans le Val de Loire, pour au moins trois raisons essentielles : - au niveau de la filière viticole en raison de la crise du secteur depuis quelques années et de la concurrence très vive des vins étrangers. L’oenotourisme est perçu comme une opportunité commerciale pour le vin afin de développer les ventes et fidéliser les clients. - au niveau de la filière touristique en raison de la baisse de la fréquentation des châteaux de la Loire mais aussi de la concurrence très importante entre les destinations touristiques. L’oenotourisme est considéré comme une opportunité pour le développement touristique régional, en accord avec une des tendances actuelles de la demande touristique, en quête d’authenticité et d’expériences uniques dans un environnement de qualité. Il permet à certains territoires d’inscrire leur différence sur la scène internationale en créant une offre touristique spécifique et originale. - au niveau des territoires, dans une optique de dynamisation économique de l’espace et de levier pour le développement local. L’oenotourisme permet ainsi de diversifier l’activité économique locale, de créer de la valeur ajoutée, de développer des emplois durables, et d’accroitre le rayonnement national et international de la région. Selon l’étude d’Atout France (2010), le nombre d’oenotouristes en France est estimé à environ 7,5 millions par an dont 1/3 d’étrangers. Les trois régions les plus prisées pour le tourisme œnologique sont le Bordelais, l'Alsace et la Champagne, puis viennent le Languedoc-Roussillon, la Vallée du Rhône, le Sud-Ouest autre que le Bordelais, le Val de Loire, et enfin la ProvenceCorse. Ainsi, l’attractivité touristique des vignobles du Val de Loire est moins importante que ceux de Bordeaux ou d’Alsace par exemple. Pourtant, le Val de Loire possède la Route des Vignobles la plus longue de France (un parcours de 800 kilomètres). En outre, le Val de Loire est la 3ème région viticole de France, en volume AOC (Chinon, Coteaux du Loir, Ménetou-Salon, SaintNicolas-de-Bourgueil, Sancerre…) et le vignoble est inscrit depuis 2000 au patrimoine mondial de l’UNESCO. Malgré d’indéniables atouts viticoles (le Val de Loire compte 69 AOC, des caves creusées dans le tuffeau, des coteaux plantés de vigne…) et culturels (châteaux de la Loire et leurs jardins, des personnages historiques, des artistes, Rabelais, Ronsard, Balzac, Léonard de Vinci…), le vignoble du Val de Loire souffre d’un déficit de notoriété - notamment au niveau international puisque la clientèle française est largement majoritaire - qui doit être corrigé. Dans ce cadre, les ministères du Tourisme et de l'Agriculture ont lancé en 2009, le label « Vignobles & Découvertes ». L'objectif de ce label est d'une part, de développer l'efficacité touristique de ces destinations viticoles et touristiques par une meilleure mise en valeur de leurs richesses et la mise en réseau de leurs acteurs, et d'autre part, d'améliorer l'image, la notoriété et les ventes pour tous les acteurs de la filière vitivinicole et touristique. Dans le Val de Loire, ce label s’est appuyé sur l’important réseau des Caves touristiques du vignoble de Loire. Il est attribué pour trois ans à des destinations qui proposent une offre de produits touristiques multiples et complémentaires : hébergements, restauration, visites de caves, musées, événements… Différentes études ont été menées sur la fréquentation des 300 Caves touristiques du Val de Loire (InterLoire 2008, InterLoire 2010) afin d’évaluer l’impact économique de cette clientèle au 19
sein de la filière viticole et au sein de la filière touristique. L'analyse de l'état des lieux montre la réalité et le poids économique du tourisme vitivinicole dans le Val de Loire. Dans le prolongement de ces études, et à l’aide d’une étude de terrain ciblée dans les vignobles des AOC Chinon et Vouvray d’Indre-et-Loire labellisés « Vignobles et Découvertes », nous avons pu montrer l’apport de ce label en terme de notoriété, en terme de diversification des clientèles, mais aussi quantifier la progression des ventes dans ces exploitations viticoles ayant entrepris une diversification touristique. L’oenotourisme apparait comme un levier à la consommation de vins régionaux puisque la plupart des clients indiquent vouloir consommer plus de vins de la région à l’avenir. En effet, leur opinion sur la région s’est améliorée et affinée grâce à leur séjour, et l’impact en terme d’image est très important. Les retombées économiques de ce label sur les territoires sont réelles mais apparaissent plus diffuses, notamment car l’offre touristique liée au vin reste encore très largement atomisée, à l’image des exploitations viticoles dans le Val de Loire. L’un des principaux points d’amélioration concerne le travail sur la circulation des clients entre les différents domaines viticoles. Ainsi, le réseau touristique reste encore à améliorer, notamment à travers une meilleure mise en relation des différents acteurs des deux filières, viticoles et touristiques. Dans le Val de Loire, il ressort que la découverte des vins et des vignobles, et le patrimoine culturel sont les deux principaux facteurs d’attractivité du territoire. D’ailleurs, selon Anne Gombault (2011), « il ne faut pas considérer l’oenotourisme comme une forme spécifique du tourisme mais bien comme une forme générique du tourisme culturel (patrimonial et créatif) ». C’est dans cet axe que doit se faire la réflexion pour améliorer l’offre de services aux oenotouristes, en combinant les atouts patrimoniaux de la région et les vins. Bibliographie citée Atout France (2010) « Tourisme et vin. Les clientèles françaises et internationales, les concurrents de la France. Comment rester compétitif ? », Collection Marketing Touristique, Ed. Atout France. Dubrule P. (2007) « L’oenotourisme : une valorisation des produits et du patrimoine vitivinicoles », Paris, avril. Frochot I. (2000) « Wine tourism in France : a paradox ? », in Hall M.C., Sharples L., Cambourne B., Macionis N. (dir.) (2000) « Wine Tourism Around the World. Development, Management and Markets », Butterworth-Heinemann. Gombault A. (2011) « Oublier Bacchus. Pour un tourisme créatif. », in Les Cahiers Espaces « Vin, vignoble et tourisme » (2011), n°111, décembre. Hall M.C., Sharples L., Cambourne B., Macionis N. (dir.) (2000) « Wine Tourism Around the World. Development, Management and Markets », Butterworth-Heinemann. InterLoire (2008) « Oenotourisme. Fréquentation des caves en 2008 », Synthèse de l’étude menée par l’OE2T – Observatoire de l’Economie et des Territoires de Touraine, la SEM Régionale des Pays-de-la-Loire et InterLoire. InterLoire (2010) « Le tourisme viticole en vignoble de Loire en 2010 ». Lignon-Darmaillac S. (2009) « L'oenotourisme en France. Nouvelle valorisation des vignobles. Analyse et bilan. », Ed. Féret.
Le train, outil de promotion territoriale. Traverser le Penedès et les vignes Soazig DARNAY17, Architecte paysagiste libérale, Catalogne, Espagne 17
Paysagiste DPLG (ENSP Versailles). Membre du comité de suivi de la Charte de Fontevraud (charte internationale des paysages viticoles mandatée par l’Institut Français du Vin). Membre la commission paysage du cluster INNOVI, dans le Penedès. Membre fondateur de l’association CepVi (groupe organisateur du Congres d’Art i Paisatge Vitivinícola de Subirats / Vilafranca del Penedès). Membre ICOMOS France. Particulièrement engagée dans la compréhension du monde rural et dans la gestion des espaces agricoles en milieu périurbain. Elle propose une vision transversale grâce à ses permanents aller retour entre des études territoriales (étude d’impact, analyse de site et de situation territoriale) et des aménagements à différentes échelles (intégration paysagère de bâtiments, projets d’oenotourisme et de mise en valeur de lieux, mise en scène de vignoble).
20
Le train est un moyen de transport qui se décline de l’utilitaire à l’agrément. Longtemps symbole de développement et de modernité, aujourd’hui c’est un élément clé de l’histoire d’un territoire qui nous invite à la découverte. En Catalogne, nous connaissons tous le train du Val de Nuria (Pyrénées Catalanes), lieude fantasme car inatteignable en voiture. Le train, unique véhicule, nous emmène vers un site « vierge », « intouché », « caché »… Nous sommes obligés de nous adapter aux horaires, impossible de maitriser notre déplacement. L’évasion commence au moment où l’on gare la voiture sur le parking. Dès lors, nous sommes attentifs, réceptifs, et notre voyage, scénarisé, devient plus important que le but en lui même (un sanctuaire, bâtiment neutre et moderne, dans une vallée de montagne isolée et quelques pistes de ski ou de randonnées). Dans les vignes, le train qui part de Porto pour longer le Douro permet de contempler les reliefs accidentés des terrasses bien mieux que depuis la route. Ce sont les gares qui signent le caractère spécifiquement portugais du voyage. Les scènes traditionnelles peintes sur les azulejos anciens témoignent d’un passé glorieux. En Suisse, entre Genève et Lausanne, le train est un service urbain pratique et régulier. Il permet là aussi de longer le lac et de découvrir les terrasses de vignes d’un point de vue inaccessible aux voitures. Le train du quotidien y gagne une valeur patrimoniale. Vu depuis les champs viticoles, le rythme et le son de son passage anime le paysage et rappelle son attachement urbain. En Champagne, fin 2013, une ligne de TER (service régional) a été intégrée à une démarche de candidature UNESCO. On y a rebaptisé le trajet Epernay-Reims comme « ligne des bulles », distinguant ainsi un service et un voyage qui s’était banalisé. Dans le Penedès, aux portes de Barcelone, un processus de réappropriation du « tren de cercanías » R4 est en marche à travers d’un projet de paysage mené par des caves locales et la RENFE. La ligne est historiquement liée au commerce du vin mais elle est devenue un service de transport sans charme et peu valorisé. On ne peut pas dire que l’on y découvre les plus beaux paysages locaux, au contraire : on circule dans le fond de vallée, lieu de transit par excellence où s’accumulent les infrastructures et leurs services associés, dont un certain développement industriel et urbain. Le train associé au tourisme, ici en particulier l’Oenotourisme puisque le Penedès est une des plus importante région de production viticole de Catalogne, devient alors une expression d’un positionnement identitaire volontariste pour une région et un secteur d’activité dynamique. Le train se veut vecteur de développement durable, associé à des propositions de tourisme vert ou s’appuyant sur les réseaux locaux, lui même vitrine d’un vignoble en forte conversion écologique où fleurissent les petites et moyennes entreprises d’élaboration artisanale.
ITALIAN – ITALIANO – ITALIÀ Il vino parla nei calici e racconta l’identità di un territorio: un viaggio tra le Strade del Vino del Friuli Venezia Giulia Consuelo Parlato18, Scuola Dottorale "Andre Gunder Frank" in Conoscenze e Innovazioni per lo Sviluppo, Dipartimento di Scienze Politiche e Sociali, Università della Calabria, Italia
18
Dottoranda presso la Scuola Dottorale "Andre Gunder Frank" in Conoscenze e Innovazioni per lo Sviluppo al Dipartimento di Scienze Politiche e Sociali dell’Università della Calabria. I miei interessi di ricerca si concentrano nell’ambito delle tematiche cibo e territorio, nonché nell'analisi del settore del turismo enogastronomico e in particolare dello strumento delle Strade del Vino con particolare attenzione al territorio friulano e calabrese in comparazione con altre realtà Italiane ed Europee.
21
Questo paper presenta i primi risultati di ricerca, aventi per oggetto lo studio di tre Strade del Vino - Strada del Vino Pordenonesi, Strada del Vino dei Colli del Friuli e la Strada del Vino del Goriziano – nella regione del Friuli Venezia Giulia, come espressione di un sistema territoriale frutto dell’azione collettiva. L’obiettivo è quello di esplicare le modalità di organizzazione e le caratteristiche con cui si sono strutturate, nonché il contributo che hanno fornito nel creare un unico sistema integrato di offerta turistica, confluito nelle Strade del Vino e Sapori Friuli Venezia Giulia che, per garantire omogeneità tra gli attori coinvolti, viene coordinato dal Movimento Turismo del Vino FVG. Questo sistema, nato dalla volontà unanime di comitati promotori (composti da imprenditori ed enti locali) è, basato sulla condivisione delle strategie e su una netta distinzione delle competenze tra i vari soggetti, che operano in sinergia tra di loro, allo scopo di valorizzare il vino e i prodotti agroalimentari del territorio, senza trascurare i valori ambientali, storici e culturali che ne costituiscono l’identità. La Mission delle Strade del Vino e Sapori Friuli Venezia Giulia è quella di realizzare un prodotto enoturistico organizzato capace, di rispondere alle nuove aspettative del “viaggiatore consapevole” che ricerca un Total Leisure Experience (Censis Servizi, 2013) e d’incrementare lo sviluppo del territorio abbinando le potenzialità del turismo regionale – caratterizzato anche da siti Unesco – con il vasto territorio enogastronomico. Compito del sistema Strade del Vino e Sapori Friuli Venezia Giulia è strutturare il prodotto enoturistico attraverso due aspetti fondamentali: la sinergia e la coerenza (Berti G., Ara A., Brunori G., 2011). La prima si realizza attraverso la costruzione di una rete tra attori eterogenei, e potrebbe implicare un processo lento e complesso a causa della poca predisposizione alla collaborazione e da altri fattori esterni. Il secondo si riferisce al grado di coerenza che si realizza tra gli elementi materiali e il capitale simbolico (Bourdieu, 1987): cioè la realizzazione di un prodotto tipico deve essere coerente con gli elementi del territorio in cui è prodotto. Questo aspetto è fondamentale nel costruire l’immagine verso l’esterno. Facendo riferimento alla costruzione del “black box” di Latour (1987, citato da Brunori), la Strada tematica rappresenta un’attività d’interesse collettivo dove i singoli soggetti locali (fase individuale) - aziende agricole e agrituristiche, enoteche, cantine, ristoranti, operatori turistici, gli amministratori pubblici ecc., s’impegnano a costruire legami d’interconnessione (fase di costruzione tematica interna) allineandosi alla realizzazione di un obiettivo comune. Una volta stabilito il prodotto chiave che più li caratterizza e da cui generalmente ne prendono il nome, nascono le Strade dell’Olio, del Vino, del Pane etc (fase di rappresentazione simbolica) che posiziona la Strada come attore collettivo verso l’esterno. Infine, si giunge all’estensione tematica, cioè l’apertura verso altri prodotti tipici, verso le attività storiche, culturali, naturalistiche ecc., a diversi livelli di gestione (Berti G., Ara A., Brunori G., 2011). Perciò, la sinergia non è immediata e la coerenza non è scontata. Di contro è ipotizzabile che, non tutte le 170 Strade dei Vini e dei Sapori tracciate tra i territori di circa 1.300 comuni italiani (Forum Marsala, 2013) sono il risultato di una coerenza e di un’integrazione tematica, capace di giungere alla fase della rappresentazione simbolica o dell’estensione tematica e creare un certo dinamismo sul territorio. Lo sguardo sul Friuli Venezia Giulia si allarga, all’interno di questo studio, a diverse Regioni italiane, in particolare al territorio Calabrese, dove la capacità del "terroir, milieu, territorio, paesaggio" (Croce, Perri,2008) di trasformarsi in una destinazione turistica risulta molto limitata. A queste prime considerazioni, pensate alla luce di un approccio comparativo tra diversi luoghi, ne consegue che per la promozione, la valorizzazione e la tutela del vasto patrimonio enogastronomico italiano – inserito fra i patrimoni culturali immateriali dell’UNESCO – è necessario un costante coordinamento tra gli attori locali coinvolti. In particolare, le Strade tematiche possono rappresentare, se si attivano relazioni costruite dal basso (Magnaghi, 2000), uno strumento utile per ricomporre il lagame tra cibo, comunità locale e risorse del territorio, generare sviluppo socio economico e rispondere alla richiesta di fattori attrattivi legati a contenuti “esperienziali” e a “specifiche caratteristiche dei contesti” sociali (Di Vittorio, 2010), come forma di resistenza alla globalizzazione del gusto (Zago, 2009).
22
PORTUGUESE - PORTUGUÉS - PORTUGUÈS O Enoturismo no Vale do São Francisco, Brasil Tereza Cristina de Oliveira e Oliveira &Walison Fábio Rogério19, Universidade Federal da Bahia (UFBA), Salvador, Bahia, Brasil
O Enoturismo é um segmento do turismo que se caracteriza pelo deslocamento de pessoas para regiões produtoras de vinhos. Apesar do vinho ser o produto turístico fundamental para o Enoturismo, não só dele se faz um destino enoturístico. Os visitantes buscam também degustar e conhecer o processo de produção do vinho, vivenciar a cultura local na qual as vinícolas se estabelecem. Segundo Getz (2000), o destino enoturístico ideal engloba um conjunto de benefícios para os consumidores de vinho, tais como: cultura e gastronomia local, custo/benefício das acomodações, belezas naturais e opções de lazer. Desde o início da década de 1990, o enoturismo está presente em todos os continentes e nas mais diversas regiões vinícolas. A região na qual predomina o Enoturismo no mundo ainda é a Europa. Este segmento integrou-se aos roteiros turísticos europeus a partir da década de 1980 devido ao enfraquecimento da economia rural francesa. Os produtores de vinho passaram a realizar a venda direta ao consumidor como forma de diversificar suas receitas. As rotas do vinho europeias são definidas e registradas de forma oficial em cada país e recebem turistas tanto pela qualidade de seus vinhos quanto por outras atrações turísticas locais (Kroguer, 2012). No “Novo Mundo”, as vinícolas enxergam na visitação direta uma possibilidade de divulgação de seus vinhos. Atualmente, este mercado se encontra em expansão na Austrália, Nova Zelândia, Estados Unidos, Argentina, Chile e Brasil. No Brasil, o segundo maior polo de produção de viníferas encontra-se na região nordeste, especificamente no Vale do Rio São Francisco, os quais se encontram os municípios de Santa Maria da Boa Vista, Lagoa Grande e Petrolina no Estado de Pernambuco, e os municípios de Casa Nova e Juazeiro no Estado da Bahia. A região do Vale do submédio São Francisco está situada no semi-árido nordestino. A área dista das faixas tradicionais temperadas de produção de vinhos, no entanto, situa-se num microclima que tem se mostrado extraordinário para a produção de uvas de mesa, as quais são amplamente exportadas, além de estar surpreendendo os apreciadores de vinho com vinhos de excelente qualidade. Este fenômeno ocorre devido ao baixo índice pluviométrico aliado ao sistema de irrigação com as águas do Rio São Francisco, alto grau de insolação, temperatura média anual (27 °C), sistema de condução das videiras e período de repouso vegetativo curto por interrupção da irrigação. Este conjunto de fatores permite que os produtores da região tenham duas ou mais colheitas anuais de uvas extremamente doces. (Amarante, ano). Nestas regiões, as principais castas de uvas cultivadas pelas sete vinícolas instaladas são as variedades Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah e Alicante Bouschet, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay e
19
Professores Assistentes do curso de Bacharelado em Gastronomia da Universidade Federal da Bahia (UFBA). Salvador, Bahia, Brasil.
23
Sauvignon Blanc sendo que os vinhos espumantes e os tintos da variedade Shiraz tem se destacado no Brasil e no mundo. O Enoturismo na região do Vale do São Francisco iniciou-se no ano de 2008. Atualmente, duas vinícolas aceitam visitantes, no lado Pernambucano a vinícola Santa Mari-Rio Sol e no lado baiano, a vinícola Miolo, antiga Ouro Verde. A paisagem do semiárido brasileiro, a qual corresponde ao bioma da caatinga, chama a atenção dos turistas devido a suas peculiaridades, sobretudo, quando as associa com extensos vinhedos, típicos das regiões de clima temperado, e pelas plantações de outras espécies de frutas tropicais. Na região, a cidade de Petrolina do Estado de Pernambuco se destaca como potencial turístico, a qual possui organização urbana diferenciada comparada às demais cidades da região. A rede hoteleira da cidade conta com 9 hotéis (986 leitos), 10 agências de turismo e 11 guias de turismo de acordo com o CADASTUR (Sistema de Cadastro de pessoas físicas e jurídicas que atuam no setor do turismo do Ministério do Turismo brasileiro). Quando somado às outras cidades da região, o quantitativo de leitos disponíveis sobe para aproximadamente 2.900. Além da oportunidade de degustar os “vinhos tropicais” obtidos a partir de castas europeias, o turista tem a oportunidade de apreciar as belezas naturais do Rio São Francisco e seu potencial para esportes náuticos, bem como, se deliciar com as comidas típicas do sertão nordestino brasileiro. A Gastronomia local destaca-se pelos pratos a base dos peixes de água doce “Surubim” (Pseudoplatystoma corruscans) também conhecido como “Pintado”, com carne de cor branca, gosto agradável, textura firme e ausência de espinhas. Além dos pescados, destacam-se os pratos à base da carne de “Bode” (Capra aegagrus), de sabor semelhante ao do carneiro (Ovis aries), no entanto, com um rendimento menor e com sabor mais marcante. As guarnições mais utilizadas são as leguminosas típicas da região, que incluem, o feijão de corda (Vigna unguiculata) ou feijão verde (Vigna radiata), e a macaxeira (Manihot utilissima), também conhecida como aipim ou mandioca, geralmente servida cozida ou nas formas de farinha, pirão ou purê. Na cidade de Petrolina, desde o final da década de 1980 há um centro gastronômico denominado “Bodódromo”, no qual estão instalados 10 restaurantes e 22 quiosques especializados em pratos a base do caprino. Este lugar tem recebido investimentos para realização de melhorias no espaço de quase 30 mil metros quadrados para atrair apreciadores da Gastronomia local. Para o consumo de pescados, existem inúmeros quiosques e restaurantes na orla do Rio São Francisco. O roteiro turístico ofertado pelas empresas do setor, conhecido como “Vapor do Vinho” inclui uma visita técnica a Vinícola Miolo acompanhada por um enólogo, nas quais se podem observar as “quatro estações” da uva em um só local devido às características climáticas, irrigação, plantio e manejo das videiras, além de observar todas as etapas da produção de vinhos, bem como a degustação de alguns produtos. Após a visita a vinícola o roteiro segue com um passeio de barco com música ao vivo e vinhos a preço de custo pelas águas do Rio São Francisco, passando inclusive por uma eclusa importante para a região, denominada “Sobradinho”. A região demostra ter um alto potencial para o desenvolvimento do Enoturismo, no entanto, ainda deve ser melhor explorada e apoiada pelo Estado e pela iniciativa privada. Referências bibliográficas AMARANTE, J. O. A. Os segredos do vinho para iniciantes e iniciados. 2. ed. São Paulo: Mescla, 2005.
24
GETZ, D.; BROWN G., Critical success factors for wine tourism regions: a demand analysis. In:Tourism Management, v. 27, ano 1, 2006. p.146-158. KROGER,L.P. Enoturismo na Bahia: Uma Análise sobre o Potencial do Enoturismo na Região do Vale do São Francisco/BA. Dissertação (Mestrado Acadêmico) - Escola de Administração, Universidade Federal da Bahia, Salvador, 2012.
Novos hábitos para uma nova classe média: um estudo sobre o aumento do consumo de vinho nas comunidades pacificadas do Rio de Janeiro Ivan Bursztyn20, Cláudia Mesquita Pinto Soares21, Camila Carvalho Ferracioli22 & Eduardo Rocha Gama 23, Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, Brasil
A história do Brasil com o vinho começou desde a sua colonização, em que diversas castas eram trazidas com a tentativa de estabelecer um cultivo no país, que muitas vezes eram fracassados, até que o encontro de um melhor clima e solo, associado a técnicas e auxilio de tecnologias, fizeram com que a viticultura vingasse. Atualmente, o Brasil é considerado o quinto maior produtor vitivinícola do hemisfério sul e é um dos mercados que cresce mais rapidamente no mundo (MONTECINOS, 2010). O Brasil é um país em que a cerveja é dominante entre as bebidas alcoólicas, não possuindo uma cultura enraizada de consumo de vinhos como o de países europeus e até mesmo de vizinhos como a Argentina. Apesar desse fato, o Brasil vem apresentando um crescimento no consumo de vinhos ao longo dos anos. Uma pesquisa feita no Instituto de Assessoria Mercadológica & Mercadométrica (ARAÚJO, 2013), mostra que em um período de dez anos, de 2002 a 2012, houve um aumento de 117% no volume consumido no país, passando de 81 milhões de litros para 2176 milhões de litros, uma média de crescimento de 8% ao ano, o consumo per capita deu um salto de aproximadamente 7%, passando de 0,71litro para 1,26 litro por ano. Apesar de as classes sociais A e B1 serem os maiores responsáveis por esse consumo de vinhos, observa-se que nos últimos anos o vinho tem sido “descoberto” pelas classes C e D que apresentou um aumento de 23,8% no consumo entre 2002 e 2012 (ARAÚJO, 2013). 1 Renda familiar das classes sociais brasileiras: Classe A: acima de R$9.745,00 (aproximadamente USD 4.000,00); Classe B: R$7.745,00 a R$ 9.745,00 (aproximadamente entre USD 3.000,00 e USD 4.000,00); Classe C: R$1.734,00 a R$ 7.475,00 (aproximadamente entre USD 900,00 e USD 3.000,00); Classe D: R$1.085,00 a R$1.734,00 (aproximadamente entre USD 500,00 e USD 800,00); Classe E: abaixo de R$ 1.085,00 (aproximadamente entre USD 0 e USD 500,00). Preços de julho de 2011. (Centro de Políticas Sociais, Fundação Getúlio Vargas (FGV). 2 UPP Um dos mais importantes programas de Segurança Pública no Brasil. Pequena força da Policia Militar com atuação exclusiva em comunidades. Trabalham com os princípios da polícia de proximidade, e tem sua estratégia fundamentada na parceria entre a população e as instituições da área de segurança pública.
20
Designer, doutor em Engenharia de Produção pela COPPE/UFRJ e professor do curso de Gastronomia da UFRJ. Mestre em Análise regional e bacharel em turismo pela Universidade Salvador. Estuda a hospitalidade na vertente empresarial gastronômica e é professora do Curso de Gastronomia da UFRJ 22 Estudante de Gastronomia da UFRJ 23 Estudante de Gastronomia da UFRJ 21
25
Atualmente, a nova classe média, como tem sido chamados os novos consumidores das classes C e D, vem crescendo mais nas favelas do que no restante do país. No Rio de Janeiro, a população das comunidades somam 1,7 milhões de pessoas em cerca de mil comunidades, que movimentam 13 milhões de reais por ano e grande parte desse consumo é atribuído à classe C das favelas, que cresceu de 45% para 66% da população, em 10 anos (COELHO et all., 2010). Esse crescimento permite que o morador da favela tenha acesso a produtos antes inacessíveis e cria possibilidades para que o morador da comunidade seja um empreendedor, abrindo seu próprio estabelecimento, estimulado pelo foco turístico que as favelas veem ganhando atualmente, sendo atrativo turístico de estrangeiros, brasileiros e até moradores residentes na mesma cidade. Com a instalação das Unidades de Policia Pacificadora2 (UPP’s) em diversas favelas do Rio de Janeiro com o objetivo de promover o desenvolvimento urbano, social e econômico desses territórios e contribuir com o processo de pacificação, foi possível estreitar a distância entre a favela e a cidade e a prática do turismo nessas localidades se espalhou e vem crescendo nos últimos anos. Medeiros (2006) apresenta que os turistas procuram, mais e mais, experiências inusitadas, interativas, aventureiras e autênticas em destinos cujo apelo reside na antítese daquilo que se convencionou comercializar como “turístico". 3 Como consequência do crescente movimento turístico, os estabelecimentos de alimentos e bebidas localizados nas comunidades vêm se ampliando e apresentando diferentes opções para o público. A fama antes interna de diversos estabelecimentos se espalhou e atualmente existem muitos Guias destinados a orientar o visitante na Favela. Um dos mais famosos é um livro que contém indicações de bares e restaurantes para se frequentar nas comunidades, intitulado Guia Gastronômico das Favelas, escrito pelo cineasta Sérgio Bloch. A partir desse cenário de mudanças sociais e culturais nas favelas, esse estudo objetivou investigar se o vinho passou a ter lugar entre os estabelecimentos de alimentos e bebidas nas comunidades cariocas pacificadas, como se deu a sua inserção e qual é o perfil de consumo de vinho nessas localidades, investigando sua relação com o turismo e os moradores dessas comunidades. A escolha do espaço a ser estudado foi delimitado pela atratividade turística, levando-se em conta que as escolhidas fazem parte da área conhecida como Zona Sul da capital carioca, área com maior apelo turístico da cidade. Foram visitados três estabelecimentos de alimentos e bebidas em diferentes favelas cariocas, sendo eles: o Bar do Davi, localizado no Chapéu Mangueira, no bairro do Leme, que oferece almoço durante o dia e petiscos à noite, com capacidade de lotação de cem pessoas e cinco funcionários; o Las Empanadas, localizado no Vidigal, com especialidade em empanadas argentinas, que conta com 6 funcionários e capacidade de 30 pessoas; e por ultimo, o Restaurante do Glimário, localizado na Rocinha, em São Conrado, que conta com um funcionário além do dono, tem a capacidade de atendimento de 21 lugares e possui fama pela venda de pratos com carnes exóticas. A pesquisa seguiu o método exploratório em seu primeiro momento. Em seguida, foi realizada uma pesquisa de campo onde foram entrevistados e gestores dos estabelecimentos na busca de dados que apontassem para a inserção do vinho e seu consumo nesses espaços. A pesquisa tem caráter descritivo e foi realizada com apoio de dois alunos de graduação em Gastronomia, sob a supervisão de dois professores da Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro na modalidade iniciação científica.
26
A pesquisa revela que o vinho vem tomando lugar dentre as favelas cariocas, mesmo que de maneira singela e o público de consumo nessas localidades se apresenta de forma 4 plural, estando presente desde turistas estrangeiros e nacionais, moradores da cidade até moradores da comunidade. Outra reflexão fruto deste trabalho diz respeito à função social do vinho. As classes C e D consumidora de vinhos não desejam apenas a bebida, mas sim o status que o vinho aparenta passar, por ser uma bebida de maior consumo nas classes mais altas. A escolha da bebida diferenciada representa, também, um sinal de mudança de patamar, o aumento do poder de compra observado na classe média que proporciona a esses consumidores maiores regalias e novas experiências sob a ótica enogastronômica. Referências bibliográficas ARAÚJO, Pamela, Consumo de vinho no Brasil dobra em dez anos e é preferência. Publicada em 22/09/2013.Disponível em: Instituto de Assessoria Mercadológica & Mercadométrica (IAM&M) http://www.iamm.com.br/. Capturado em 30 novembro de 2013. COELHO, Maria Francisca Pinheiro, TAPAJÓS, Luziele. Maria de Souza e RODRIGUES, Monica(Org).Políticas sociais para o desenvolvimento: superar a pobreza e promover a inclusão; Simpósio Internacional sobre Desenvolvimento Social. Brasília: Ministério do Desenvolvimento Social e Combate à Fome, UNESCO, 2010. 360p. COPELLO, Marcelo. Revista BACO.Uruguai, bom no copo e no bolso.Ano 2. No.7. 2013, pág 106. FREIRE, Bianca Medeiros. A construção da favela carioca como destino turístico. Rio de Janeiro: CPDOC, 2006. IBRAVIN - Instituto Brasileiro do Vinho. Avaliação setorial. 2013. Disponível em : http://www.ibravin.org.br/dadosestatisticos. Capturado em 4 de janeiro de 2014. JORGE Tonietto, IVANIRA Falcade. Vinhos regionais: regulamentação no Brasil x Congresso Brasileiro de Viticultura e Enologia. Anais do Congresso disponível em: http://www.cnpuv.embrapa.br/publica/anais/cbve10/cbve10inicial.pdf. Acesso em 1 de dezembro de 2013. MONTECINOS, Antônio. A importância do planejamento gastronômico para o turismo. Turismo em Pauta / Confederação Nacional do Comércio de Bens, Serviços e Turismo – N. 10 (2012) – Rio de Janeiro: CNC, 2012. SILVA, Ana et al. Percepções, atitudes e comportamentos de jovens face ao consumo de vinho. Associação Portuguesa dos Nutricionistas. 2010.
SPANISH – ESPAÑOL – ESPANYOL El valor del enogastroturista como embajador de marca Zaida Semprún24, Cava & Hotel MasTinell, Vilafranca del Penedès, Catalunya, España
El Turismo enogastronómico como herramienta para el conocimiento, comunicación y disfrute de la intangibilidad inherente en la elaboración de productos agroalimentarios. El Patrimonio Enogastronómico, como paisajes, conjunto de espacios, objetos, actividades, manifestaciones orales y costumbres relacionadas con la actividad productiva en el sector primario que conforman recursos turísticos. El vino y la gastronomía como ejes de transmisión de conocimiento, transmisión de la cultura, generador de sensaciones, vivencias, experiencias y disfrute.
24
Politóloga de carrera y experta en relaciones internacionales que ha encontrado en el sector agroalimentario y en las experiencia y relaciones que se generan entorno al mismo, una gran pasión que intento contagiar de forma más profesional a mi entorno laboral y de forma más sentimental a mi familia y amigos. El agroalimentario y mi experiencia profesional en la Bodega Eguren Ugarte primero y Heretat Mastinell en la actualidad me han proporcionado un master vital no solo de aprendizajes sino también de experiencias sensoriales, pero sobre todo me han proporcionado la oportunidad de conocer otros productos y regiones y de hacer grandes amigos. Todo lo que he aprendido entorno al Enogastroturismo ha venido precedido de la necesidad real de toma de decisiones y puesta en práctica de las mismas en los cargos que he venido desempeñando en ambas Bodegas, la necesidad ha sido en estos casos la mejor Universidad.
27
El vino y la gastronomía como reflejo del mimo y la selección de la materia prima, del buen hacer, del respeto al entorno y del esfuerzo. Redescubrimiento de la Enogastronomía por revalorización de los alimentos de calidad y como símbolo de la calidad de vida. El vino y la gastronomía como saber y sabor, como tradición e innovación. El enogastroturismo como fuente de valor económico generando nuevas formas de negocio entorno a los productos agroalimentarios y como “experiencia “que acerca al turista a los valores ciertos y diferenciales de los lugares que visita. El enogastroturista como Embajador de Marca en los Mercados de Origen. La primera elección de un turista al uso, paradójicamente no suele ser el destino que quiere visitar, si no quien le acompañará en el viaje y ello determinará en gran medida la elección del destino, durante el viaje en el que beberá y se alimentará como necesidad fisiológica. La primera elección de un Enogastroturista, de un “food and wine lover”, será que quiere beber y comer durante su viaje, el disfrute enogastronómico como motivación para emprender camino y visitar zonas geográficas directamente relacionadas con la producción de productos agroalimentarios de calidad, como hilo conductor para zambullirse y conocer el patrimonio enogastronómico de cada destino. El viaje para el enogastroturista se convierta en una experiencia entorno a los productos, durante el mismo, precedida de una pre experiencia en algunos de los casos y generadora de una pos experiencia, en la mayoría de ellos, a la vuelta a su lugar de origen de inestimable valor, tanto para las marcas comerciales como para las marcas paraguas, muy valiosa e imposible de medir ni trasladar a un balance de resultados. El enogastroturismo es la herramienta mediante la cual una región y las compañías que en ella se hayan representadas tienen a su disposición para dar a conocer, comunicar y “hacer sentir” al consumidor toda la intangibilidad asociada al Patrimonio Enogastronómico, que como productores no somos capaces de trasladar ni comunicar mediante una etiqueta en un lineal de cualquier establecimiento del mundo. Si una región y las empresas que la componen son capaces de generar experiencias exitosas entorno a sus productos y a sus valores ciertos y diferenciales, cada enogastroturista que la visite, se convierte en un Embajador de Marca en su Mercado de Origen, que mediante la recreación de lo vivido, es decir mediante la pos experiencia, transformándose en la mejor y más barata de las herramientas de comunicación y marketing que puede tener cualquier destino, cualquier marca paraguas y cualquier compañía, el boca oreja. La experiencia vivida, el sentimiento placentero del deguste durante el viaje crea una fidelidad hacia los destinos y sus marcas que superan el factor precio en las decisiones de compra posteriores, consiguiendo preferencias sostenidas en el consumidor de los productos agroalimentarios independientemente de dónde estos residan. Se da por lo tanto en términos económicos no fácilmente medibles, un aporte de valor desde el sector terciario al primario muy a tener en cuenta a la hora de diseñar las políticas y estrategias de desarrollo del Turismo Enogastronómico por parte de las Instituciones y las Empresas que implica conocimiento del Heritage, conocimiento del sector y productos pero sobre todo mucha generosidad “entre vecinos”.
28
Paisajes culturales de la viña y el vino. Aportes para su desarrollo sostenible en la Argentina Susana Malnis25, María Susana Pataro26 & Carmen María Ramos27, Cátedra Unesco de Turismo Cultural Untref-Aamnba, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Dentro de la diversidad de ecosistemas naturales que posee la República Argentina existen una serie de regiones propicias para el desarrollo de la vid que se extienden a lo largo de una vasta franja al oeste del territorio, ubicadas de norte a sur desde los 22 hasta los 42 grados de latitud. La superficie de viñedos en Argentina se calcula en 217.750 ha (2011) de las cuales las variedades tintas cubren el 47,19 por ciento y las blancas el 19,70 por ciento. A escala mundial se ubica como quinto productor, noveno exportador, séptimo consumidor mundial y registra la presencia de 1.300 bodegas distribuidas a lo largo de tres regiones vitivinícolas bien diferenciadas por su altura y condiciones de clima: Norte, Cuyo y, más recientemente, la Patagonia. En la Argentina el cultivo de la vid se practica desde el siglo XVI hasta la actualidad y se ha desarrollado en estrecha vinculación con la historia industrial y el aporte masivo de inmigrantes europeos que tuvieron un impacto decisivo en el surgimiento de las bodegas más importantes. Así se fue configurando una actividad dotada de un rico acervo cultural material – patrimonio arquitectónico – e intangible – festividades, leyendas, música – que más recientemente – y como ha sucedido en otras regiones del planeta – sirvió de estímulo al turismo enológico que comienza a tomar auge en la década de los 90. Fue justamente en esos años, que el Comité del Patrimonio Mundial de la UNESCO integró a las categorías de sitios – culturales, naturales y mixtos - los paisajes culturales como obras conjuntas del hombre y la naturaleza que representan la evolución de la sociedad y el uso del espacio a lo largo del tiempo, bajo la influencia del medio ambiente y de los colectivos sociales y culturales. Desde 1997 hasta la fecha se han inscripto varios paisajes culturales vitivinícolas, localizados por el momento todos en Europa. Fuera del ámbito europeo, también en América del Sur se ha comenzado a trabajar sobre los paisajes vitivinícolas. Tal el caso de Chile y Brasil. En Argentina estos debates han comenzado a darse a nivel académico sin producirse aún un acercamiento entre los actores que comprenden una actividad tan compleja y dinámica como la vitivinicultura, con una larga historia marcada por distintas formas de producción, en la que se han ido incorporando cada vez más sectores, convirtiéndola en un potenciador de industrias culturales asociadas (hotelería, gastronomía, publicaciones, programas televisivos). Hasta época muy reciente, y a pesar de la inscripción del Paisaje Cultural de la Quebrada de Humahuaca en la Lista del Patrimonio Mundial (julio 2003) no existía en la Argentina experiencia en la identificación y manejo de paisajes culturales. Esta situación ha progresado paulatinamente gracias al proyecto del Camino Principal Andino, Qhapaq Nan – que comprende seis países latinoamericanos y siete provincias argentinas – y, cabe señalar, transita por varias provincias vitivinícolas (Mendoza, Salta, La Rioja, Catamarca…) lo que ha contribuido
25
Arquitecta por la Universidad de Mendoza. Posgrado en Patrimonio y Turismo Sostenible, Cátedra Unesco de Turismo Cultural Untref-Aamnba. Colaboradora de la Cátedra en la organización de seminarios, investigación y publicaciones. 26 Antropóloga y diplomática de carrera. Desempeñó funciones en Francia, Grecia, Italia, UNESCO y en Nigeria como Embajador (2009-2013). Colaboradora de la Cátedra UNESCO de Turismo Cultural Aamnba-Untref desde sus comienzos en el dictado de conferencias y la organización de seminarios. 27 Periodista y gestora cultural. Directora vocal del Ente de Turismo de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires (2007-2011). Coordinadora de proyectos de investigación e impacto del turismo sobre las políticas culturales de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires (2012- ). Directora ejecutiva de la Cátedra UNESCO de Turismo Cultural Untref-Aamnba (2007- ).
29
a la gestación de equipos pluridisciplinarios y a la reflexión sobre la complejidad del manejo de los paisajes culturales. El presente trabajo se propone describir la riqueza y potencialidad de los paisajes vitivinícolas en la República Argentina, pero también analizar las potenciales amenazas que se ciernen sobre las distintas regiones y que ponen en riesgo los componentes identitarios, materiales e inmateriales de este patrimonio: parcelamiento de terrenos, alteración del paisaje y de los oasis de riego, avance de la urbanización sobre tierras productivas, entre otras. Se parte de la base de que la identificación, caracterización y puesta en valor de los paisajes culturales de la viña y el vino en la República Argentina contribuirán a la difusión de formas de turismo sostenible favorables al desarrollo regional y a su proyección internacional como país vitivinícola VINSEUM, Museo de las Culturas del Vino de Cataluña. El proyecto de renovación del antiguo Museo de Vilafranca – Museo del Vino y su adecuación como entidad cultural museística y recurso (eno) turístico. Cecilia Jané Durbán28, responsable de comunicación y enoturismo de VINSEUM, Vilafranca de Penedès, Catalunya, España
El antiguo Museo de Vilafranca _ Museo del Vino, cuyo origen se remonta a 1935 es el primer museo del vino abierto en el estado español. Sus amplias colecciones (más de 18.000 piezas) son muy heterogéneas, siendo la colección sobre las culturas del vino la más importante de todas y la que da nombre al museo. A finales de los 90, la entidad quedó fuera de la ley de museos de la Generalitat. Esto motivó una profunda reforma de la entidad, que cambió desde su forma jurídica a su denominación, VINSEUM, Museo de las Culturas del Vino de Cataluña e inició una profunda reconversión (arquitectónica y museográfica) para adecuar un vastísimo patrimonio a una normativa y unas necesidades propias del siglo XXI. Los esfuerzos tuvieron su recompensa en 2011 con la entrada del museo en el registro de museos oficiales de la Generalitat de Catalunya. En la actualidad, y pese a que la totalidad del proyecto aún está por finalizar, se puede comprobar cómo el esfuerzo de esta entidad se ha traducido en la profesionalización de su equipo, en unas instalaciones que cumplen con todas las necesidades de un museo, en unas propuestas de actividades educativas y culturales de calidad dirigidas a diferentes sectores de público y en una atención especial hacia el sector turístico puesto que VINSEUM es un recurso (eno)turístico atractivo y complementario para los interesados en el mundo de vino. El Museo quiere equilibrar la orientación hacia el público de proximidad con sus propuestas culturales pero no puede dejar de lado el sector turístico, para ello trabaja en alianza con diferentes organizaciones y diseña productos encaminados a satisfacer las necesidades del turista.
28
Barcelona, 1975. Licenciada en Historia del Arte por la UB y Máster de Gestión Cultural por la UB. Ha trabajado en diversas empresas y entidades vinculadas con la cultura y el turismo cultural (Àgora Serveis Culturals, A FAD, artistes i artesans del FAD, Associació d’Exalumnes d’EINA o Fundació Història del Disseny entre otras). Desde 2010 es la responsable de comunicación y enoturismo de VINSEUM.
30