winter 2013 - Libsyn

WINTER 2013

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Menno Boermans

Departments 6 5

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Letter From the Publisher Exposed

Dog Sledding Ice Climbing Gloves Whistler | Blackcomb Beginner Snowboarder

Front cover: Our founder Erick tackles the ice Photo: ????? This Page: Whistler, BC: 7th Heavan from Blackcomb Photo: Shane Williams

Letter From the Publisher We’re very excited to publish the Winter 2013 issue of Adventure Insider Magazine. You may have noticed a few changes with this issue, primarily that our founder Erick Pound has stepped down from daily operations due to his USAF Deployment. About 5 years ago Erick and I brainstormed during a backpacking trip to discuss an online adventure blog & magazine, which is how Adventure Insider was born. I’m exited to bring AI into the Zaxyn Media family, joining our other publications FJC Magazine and Tacoma Magazine, and our other site OffRoadTrailerInfo.com. In order for AI to continue to thriv though, we need your help. The only way we can continue to bring you great content is if you share our stories with others. Through e-mail, social networks, or word of mouth, please tell your friends, family, and anyone you think may find our content useful about our publication and website, and help us grow so we can continue to serve you. We all look forward to seeing you on the trail and in the back country, and hope you enjoy this issue! Shane Williams Publisher [email protected]

EDITORIAL PUBLISHER SHANE WILLIAMS FOUNDER ERICK POUND ASSOCIATE EDITORS JORDAN KESSLER ERIC CEDRIC ABBIE MOOD PHOTO EDITOR NATE BURGESS K-9 EDITOR NIXON 12/13/2003 - 1/26/2011 STANLEY BUSINESS OFFICE ZAXYN MEDIA, LLC ADVENTUREINSIDER.COM 7248 MIDNIGHT ROSE DR COLORADO SPRINGS, CO 80923 Adventure Insider Magazine is published by Zaxyn Media, LLC on a semiannually basis in. Although Zaxyn Media, LLC strives for accuracy and confirms information at the time of publishing we cannot be held responsible for errors. While participating in any outdoor or recreational activity you do so at your own risk. Zaxyn Media, LLC cannot be held liable for any damages, injury or death that occurs as a result of your participation, even in such cases of error or omission. Copyright© Zaxyn Media, LLC, 2013. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without prior consent is strictly prohibited.

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Exposed

36.879, -111.514 By Nate Burgess

38.513, -106.346 By Shane Williams

8 Adventure Insider Magazine • Winter 2013

Each issue we showcase some of our photos and those of our readers. Have something you think can make the cut? E-mail us at [email protected]

-44.605,167.819 By Shane Williams

Get outfitted. Get trained. Get inspired. Get going . . . The world is waiting.

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Mushing is not something most people will get to do in a lifetime. There is a large curiosity and romance associated with the sport to warrant a little primer about the gear, dogs and techniques used to be an effective musher. The first thing to know is that there is so much more to it than simply the dogs.

A Dog sledding Primer – Experience from Bush Alaska by Eric Cedric

There is some basic gear associated with mushing. Obviously, the first big item would be the sled. Sleds come in various styles and sizes. Around here we use mostly basket sleds. These are sleds that are assembled with a wicker-weave for the basket. On most sleds you will find universal parts, such as: Handlebar, footpads, runners, brake, snow-hooks, bow, bridle, safety-line, mainline, tug-line (or gang-line), neckline, and the double leader-line. On the sleds there are two types of mechanisms designed to slow, stop and keep the sled static. These are the brake and snow-hooks. There is also a leader line, which has a snow-hook, but this is used to keep the dogs from doubling back into themselves when stopped. Snow-hooks are used to keep the sled in place when you are off it and tending to tangles, animals in the trail, or other such mishaps. We use two snow-hooks to keep the dogs from taking off on us, leaving us miles from nowhere in subzero temperatures. Never use the snowhook to slow down or stop the sled. The brake is used for that purpose, along with the command ‘Whoa’ to


The Dog Lot and Sleds

As we run commercial dog mushing trips we are always traveling with several dog teams. When starting out never pull your snow-hooks until the team in front is moving. The most egregious of mushing errors is over-running the team in front of you causing tangles, fights and chaos. Always ride the brake when pulling snow-hooks and prepare yourself for a big tug and jerk. “Riding the brake” consists of stepping down and onto the flat brake-matt between the runners, using your dominant foot. Add pressure or release it as necessary to control the speed of the sled and dogs.

bring the dogs to a stop. While moving, it is very typical to ride the brake the entire time you are on trail. It is also important to remember to always walk on the opposite side of the snow-hooks when they are set. It is possible for the snowhooks to pop out and rip into a leg or worse. The sheer force of the dogs’ sudden start and jolt is enough the rip a leg clear through.

On trail a series of hand signals helps the team behind you. Raise your hand if you need to stop, and keep it raised until you have slowed your team and set your snow hooks. Again, once stopped, go to your leaders and drop the leadhooks to prevent them from doubling back on the team. One thing that will happen to every musher is a crash. The important thing in a crash is never let go of the sled. It sounds easier than it is, but you must not let go of the sled unless you want to walk to your destination. Also, remember this credo; love your dogs and they will love you. A well cared for and loved dog gives rewards worth gold. The common commands we use are standard mushing commands. Here is the basic list:

Sleds, dog lot and St. Michael, Alaska in the background

Harnessing the dogs is another important part of mushing, and often the most time consuming and difficult. There are many types of harnesses. We use the cross-back style. These are used for distance and touring mushing. When harnessing the dog, care must be taken to keep the dogs collar above the harness. When harnessing and hooking into the gang-line, you always start with the leaders. Once your leads are in place, the leader line is put on and the lead-hook placed.

“All Right!” - to start. “Hike” is also commonly used. “Line Out” - when stopped, keeps gang line taut “Get Up There (dog’s name)!” - Keeps dog from slacking and not pulling her/his weight - Not pooping on the run - Hesitating through portages “Whoa!” - To stop “Haw!” - Left “Gee!” - Right Most good leaders are referred to as ‘Gee/Haw’ Leaders. A good lead will know the ‘Gee/Haw’ commands and respond perfectly to them on trail. This is especially important when breaking new trails or if there are distractions around the dogs. This is a small bit on the basics of dog mushing. There are so many little nuances and details associated with this sport and backcountry exploration method that it takes years to master them all. Even after all this, you still need to have exemplary backcountry technique as most mushing trips are done in very hostile and adverse conditions. You have to know how to keep you and your dogs alive as well as warm and comfortable when on trail.

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Stopping Point on the Trail - mid October

For those of you curious how we stay warm when standing on the back of a sled for three-hours in sub-zero temps, let me tell you what we wear: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Two layers of mid-weight polypro underwear One layer of expedition weight long underwear Windproof running tights Two pairs of wool socks, with a foot warmer packet between the layers of socks A fleece vest A fleece pullover Ski-bib pants Down Jacket Arctic Parka Light weight fleece gloves Arctic Over mitts with hand warmers between glove layers Fleece hat Polar face wrap Fur hat Arctic boots

You can see how you become immobile. You also need to make sure all bodily functions are taken care of before you toss on the togs. Other issues of the body wrapping include overheating as you move between in- and outdoors; reduced visibility and not knowing who are men and who are women. Fortunately, in regards to the last issue, we all know each other and are not exactly crawling with people we don’t know, so at least there is that. It is incredibly important to cover all exposed flesh on all parts of the body, face included. It doesn’t take long to get frost-nip or worse on the face and cheeks should you not cover up. I have already had some frost-nip this season and don’t wish for any more. When frost-nip begins to form on the skin, it feels like a light burn. The skin numbs well before you realize there is a problem and can lead to frostbite. Frostbite is when the skin and tissue freezes completely, leading to necrotic flesh. Eric Cedric lived and worked as a dog-sledding guide and expedition leader in Alaska’s sub-arctic. The excerpt above was from “North By Southeast – Life in the Far North” – Cedric’s book of the experience. The book is available through Amazon.com for Kindle eReaders and through Apple iTunes, iBookstore for iPad readers.

Self Portrait at -40 13

By Jordan Kessler & Erick Pound

Avoiding “Screaming Barfies”

There’s a lot of fun to be had when ice climbing, but one aspect that is never enjoyable is the Screaming Barfies. The barfies feel like no pain you have ever experienced before. It’s a fire in your veins that makes you want to puke and scream at the same time - hence the name. This phenomenon is brought on by the function of warm blood moving throughout your body and picking up lactic acid build up at from the exerted extremities. The blood returns to the heart laden with this poison and delivers a shock to the circulatory system. It mixes with the warm blood of the heart and sends it back out to the where it can cause sharp hot needles in the feet, hands and at the core. It can make you feel as sick as a two day hangover densely concentrated into 2min, oh and you might not be able to breathe also. It’s pure agony. Recently, a fellow climber new to the world of ice remarked that he would be purchasing an expensive pair of warm gloves in order to avoid this horrible experience. That’s the exact opposite of what one should do, and entirely the wrong thought process to apply (no offense). Although it may seem counter-intuitive, larger, warmer gloves do not improve the ice climbing experience.

Here is a link to the gloves he was intending to purchase: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/ climb/climbing-gloves/enforcer-glove

Right off the bat an experienced ice climber will notice that these gloves are much too thick to be doing the work required. Although these may be marketed as ice gloves, they are more akin to ski gloves. In ice climbing, a certain amount of dexterity is required of the hands in order to


place screws for protection into the ice. Clipping and tool use would also be a pain in these gloves. Then comes time to build an anchor and you either have to remove the gloves entirely and work with frozen, numb fingers or bumble your way thru the anchor while your second continues to freeze his ass off below you. All this makes for a miserable experience and amounts to one thing; you’re doin it wrong! The rules for ice gloves are pretty simple: Thin, dexterous, contains a keeper loop and since you’ll be buying several pairs, cost less than $65. Don’t get fooled by gadgetry or glossy photos. Be prepared to try out several cheap pairs to find the type that is right for you and don’t ever believe the marketing hype or the sales pitch from the store associate. Here is a link to what I would recommend as your primary pair of ice gloves: http://marmot.com/products/glide_softshell_glove_ fall_2010?p=204,216

or http://marmot.com/products/evolution_glove (although the older version of this glove was much better)

These gloves are thin and light, allowing you to do your work with ease while not having to waste time removing them at every stance. In these gloves you can place a screw, add a quick draw, clip it and grab hold of your tool again within 90seconds. This saves time not having to don/doff a big beefy glove in order to place protection and you can swap hands to shake out

You don’t just climb at one steady temperature

the supporting arm (keeping the temperature in that hand a little closer to core constant and removing lactic acid build-up). Two minutes is a lot of time for acid to build up in the calves and the body to lose heat which you then need to replace. Can you imagine taking off your gloves every time you need to place pro and then having to stand around warming your hands again before you can carry on? That’s about 5mins per screw and with at least six screws placed per pitch it amounts to an extra half hour that you are subjecting yourself and the belayer to the elements. Your secondary pair can and should be of a different brand, weight and thickness. The reason being, you don’t just climb at one steady temperature. Temps will change throughout the day depending on your location, output of energy and of course the season. Whether you are a coastal climber or Rockies climber doesn’t matter. You’ll want one pair for the approach, one pair for the climb, one for the belay and another as spares in case you drop or soak your main pair. Here’s a tip: Keep that spare main pair of gloves inside your jacket; either close to the chest in a pocket, on your shoulders held by the weight of your pack or at the waist just above your harness. This will keep them warm and allow you to switch them out at every belay which gives the used ones time to dry off via body heat. Ice climbing is a game of anticipating the elements while regulating body heat and using it to your advantage. Getting to the top is secondary to systems management. Similarly, don’t over dress like you’re going to the ski hill: no parkas and no ski pants!

So how does one prevent the dreaded build up of lactic acid and what does that have to do with gloves? Remember that barfies occur when warm blood flows into cold hands picking up lactic acid and returning it to the heart for re-distribution. There are two aspects to this: heat and acid. You can mitigate the heat by regulating your core temp. Don’t over dress/sweat, don’t climb when it’s psycho-cold out and don’t overheat on the climb itself. I.e., Dress down on the climb and wear light layers. To reduce acid built up in the muscles you want to shake out often and don’t over-grip. Having big gloves will cause you to over-grip in order to ‘feel’ the tool more securely and this will be doubly apparent when you get tired or in over your head. just like in rock, when we get scared or pumped the first thing we want to do is grip really hard for security but this reduces blood flow to the hands and causes oxygen in your cells to deplete leaving an over abundance of lactic acid. As soon as you get thru the troubles (ie a top- out or rest ledge) you will typically drop your hands to your side and this will invite the warm blood back in, picking up the acid and starting the barfies.

Don’t climb when it’s psycho-cold out

So regulate the core, shake out often and don’t over grip - big gloves will always cause you to over grip. Here is an excellent article that reiterates my comments and also explains why it’s silly to wear waterproof gloves: http://www.spadout.com/a/chasing-the-holy-grail-winter-climbing-s-glove-pro/ The link to his glove comments section is here: http://kellycordes.wordpress.com/extras/glove-system-replies/

Happy Climbing!!


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Panorama from 7th Heaven

Glacier Chair

EPIC

Synphony Bowl

Killer view from Peak to Peak

Into Harmony Bowl

Shredding 7th Heaven

Great view of Whistler Village

Beginner’s Guide to Snowboarding By Abbie Mood

Living in a place like Colorado, it’s pretty much a given that you will participate in some sort of winter sport. Having grown up in the flat state of Delaware, my snow sport experience was somewhat limited, but I when the snow started falling and the psyche about snowboarding was building up around me, I knew I had to check it out. Yes, my first time out, I fell on my tailbone and couldn’t sit down without cringing for a week, but I still forked over the cash for a season pass. I was hooked.

powder. If you decide to buy your own after going out a couple times, you will probably want to consider starting with a rocker style board as well. If you get hooked and want to buy a board after your first couple times, do some research and check out sales and Craigslist. Your beginner board doesn’t have to be top of the line – use it, abuse it, and when you advance in your skills, invest in a good board.

So whether you are a complete newbie like I was, or you just haven’t been on a board in a few years and want a refresher, this article is for you. I’ve got everything you need to get started and get going, so you won’t have any excuse to not get out there!

You can also rent a helmet, but if you think you will be riding often, you might want to buy your own helmet for sanitary reasons. Renting a helmet costs around $8, and buying your own will set you back anywhere

Goggles are also highly recommended, because the sun reflecting off the snow can actually burn your retinas. Sunglasses are a good alternative, but can fall off and aren’t likely to be as protective. You can get goggles on sale for as cheap as $20 or less, while a super nice pair can cost $100 or more. The average seems to be around $80. Gear

Equipment

The weather on the mountain can be difficult to plan for, so layers are always good. One day can be 30 degrees and you can be hot, while another day can be 30 degrees and windy and you could be freezing. Wear more than you think you will need – you can always take things off.

When you are first getting started, I suggest renting a board, bindings, and boots. This will allow you to try out different styles to see what works best for you and for the kind of snowboarding you will be doing. Renting a board, binding, and boots will cost around $30/day depending on where you go. Many stores will also let you rent a board for the whole season as well. As a novice, you will likely be fitted for a rocker style board, which is upturned slightly at both ends to make it easier to cruise on the

from $60-100+. Not everyone out there will be wearing a helmet, but it’s definitely becoming more common and it can be a lifesaver.

The Author & friend


Good snow pants are an essential investment. They will keep your butt warm and dry. You can pair them with long johns to make them a little warmer, but the key is that you do not get wet. Wet = cold, and regular pants are not good enough!

A waterproof jacket is another thing that you should have, but you don’t necessarily need a “snow coat” in this case. If you have a waterproof shell and can layer up with a shirt and a decent fleece underneath, you could be okay with that. Going along with the do not get wet theme, get a decent pair of waterproof gloves. I have a pair of liners in mine to keep my hands extra warm, and because it can be difficult to get your boots in and out of the binding with your gloves on, liners can be helpful.

Getting out there So all to

now you have the gear, and you’re ready go – what next?

While butt pads aren’t technically an essential item, they can give you a little extra padding just in case you happen to fall often. I just throw on a pair of bike shorts under my snow pants, and they give that extra padding that can be the difference between sitting like a normal human being or wincing every time you sit down after a session in the snow.

You can usually get lift tickets cheaper if you plan ahead and buy them online, or if you decide to take a lesson, a lift ticket is often included. Even if you aren’t a “lesson person” taking a lesson even once can be really helpful in helping you figure out the mechanics and getting feedback from a pro. The instructor will also help you figure out your stance (just like skateboarding – regular or goofy) and can usually switch your boots to adjust to that stance, though sometimes you have to go to the lodge to get anything like that done. They can also make recommendations and adjustments to the angle of your bindings if necessary. Taking a lesson from an instructor is not just great for basic instruction on riding, you also get some instruction on getting off the lift, which can be the most difficult part of the whole experience.

For days when it’s really cold and windy out there, a scarf, mask, or balaclava can really help keep your face warm.

Once your lesson is done, you are on your own. If you are ready to move beyond the bunny hill, look for the green trails first – they will be the easiest. Blues are intermediate, and black is the most difficult.

Get some wool socks that are designed for snowboarding. Wool is much better at keeping you warm than other materials, and the ones designed for snowboarding vs. skiing have padding in all the right places.

Remember to take breaks and hydrate. You will be at elevation, and you can get tired and dehydrated more quickly than at home, even if you live at elevation. Taking breaks also allows you to replenish your energy so you can go longer. Your first few times will be very tiring, so try to pick shorter trails and take frequent breaks.

Wrist guards aren’t just for kids learning to skateboard. There’s a chance you will fall a lot, and wrist guards are an easy way to protect your wrists if you fall on packed snow, if you fall on the icy snow at the end of the lift, or if you just fall the wrong way in the regular snow.

Tip: If your feet are really cold once you get out there, loosen your boots a little bit. Wearing two pairs of socks will not make a difference; you need to get some blood flow going down there.

After you go out a couple times, you may be hooked, like I was. If you know you will be going boarding often throughout the winter, you might want to consider a season pass. Lift tickets increase in price over the season, so a $400-500 pass quickly becomes a much better option than spending $100 on a lift ticket every weekend.

Lastly, don’t forget sunscreen! The sun is bright and you can get sunburned pretty easily.

So there you have it, everything you need to get started and get snowboarding! Hope to see you out there!

Learn more about what Abbie is up to at AbbieMood.com

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