dyeing & printing

Exclusive Silicones! Ultimate Everytime

ULTRASIL-SX

“Ultrasil-SX” the ultimate for comfort finish

“Ultrasil-SX” a glycol modified epoxy silicone offers high level of softness and resilience to knits. Robust product, Stable to high pH and optical brightners.

BRITACEL SILICONES LTD. F-18, ‘F’ Block Road, MIDC, Marol, Andheri (East), Mumbai-400 093. Tel.: 022- 4009 4000 Fax : 022-4009 4003 Email: [email protected]

BUSINESSNEWS

INTERNATIONAL Monforts at the Filtech 2018

Monforts will once again be the only manufacturer of finishing and coating equipment exhibiting at the forthcoming Filtech 2018 filtration show which takes place in Cologne, Germany, from March 13-15, 2018. As it goes from strength to strength, the Filtech show has attracted over 140 new exhibitor companies, including some of the industr y's biggest players such as Mann+Hummel, Pall Corporation and Por vair, for the first time. Also making its debut at Filtech 2018 is Monfor ts customer BWF, a leading provider of filter media for industrial filtration and solid/liquid separation, with manufacturing sites throughout the world. BWF produces over nine million readyto-install filter media annually under the brand names Needlona and PM-Tec. Some of the chief areas where its nonwoven media are employed are in biomass or coal-fired power stations, in the chemical and pharmaceutical industry and in asphalt, steel and cement plants. Of specific interest to BWF when selecting the latest Montex 8500TT

A Monforts stenter at BWF in Germany

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 8

Mr Jürgen Hanel, Head of the Technical Textiles Division at Monforts

stenter was its ability to thermally set PTFE fabrics without oil greasing in the stenter chain and in the width adjustment. ‘This protects workers and the environment from harmful oil vapours and keeps the filter material clean,' explains Jürgen Hanel, Head of Technical Textiles at Monforts. ‘The guarantee of reaching 320oC with a ver y low temperature tolerance and with an excellent housing insulation is a major advantage, so that an outside temperature over 60oC is never reached at any position.' Jürgen Hanel and his colleagues will be on hand at the Monforts booth, T8 in Hall 11.1, to provide information and advice on the wide range of production

machines for filter materials made by the company - all of which are developed and manufactured in Europe. A Montex 8500TT stenter in special execution is ideal for the preparation of filter materials for the drying and finishing of both wovens and nonwovens. It is characterised by high stretching devices in both length and width of upto 10,000 N, and can accommodate operating temperatures of upto 320oC. In addition, the company offers coating and printing heads for the application of chemical compounds together with padders and foam-padders for foam and liquor applications. Calenders for the flattening and compaction of the filter materials can be added for lines with working widths from 80 cm upto 7 m. Explosion-proof dryers are also available for the riskfree application of solvents. According to the latest analysis from BCC Research, the market for global nonwoven filter media was worth US$ 4.3 billion in 2017.

Archroma at the ISPO 2018 in Munich, Germany

Archroma, a global leader in colour and speciality chemicals, recently showcased advanced innovations and solutions to enhance active and sportswear at the ISPO 2018.

BUSINESSNEWS Under the motto ‘The ingredients to enhance your gear, its our nature', Archroma invited visitors to discover actual solutions to achieve this aspiration across all its core areas. The company's purpose is to bring colour and performance while minimising environmental impact at all stages in a product's life cycle.

Expert ingredients for outdoor, urban and active wear Archroma strongly believes, based on its extensive experience in textile processing, that sustainability can generate innovation, performance and even lead to cost reductions for customers. z Color effects - with solutions ranging from high-fast dyes Foron S-WF, Nylosan S, Printofix TF, Drimaren HF, and the new-in-range Foron S luminous dyes, to EarthColors nature inspired biomass-waste based dyes, supported by Archroma's Color Atlas to boost creativity; z Thermo-control and protection solutions to help make one’s gear more resistant to extreme weather conditions from heatwaves to rain pours: Coldblack, HyDry, Smartrepel Hydro, Appretan S and Sanitized; z Care effects solutions to bring softness and comfort to one’s gear whilst looking good at all times, Siligen, Solusoft, Ceralube and Arkofix. Archroma also demonstrated to ISPO visitors how its ONE WAY Process Simulator allows brands, retailers and textile manufacturers to take sustainability to a whole new level. The new, online software can be used to mimic and compare products and processes, and thus calculate the ecological and

economical profile of the final endproduct. Archroma displayed its solutions at the booth with 4 experiential spotlight areas:

Earthcolors

Archroma displayed its solutions at

EarthColors the booth with experiential Spotlight is a range of Areas to encourage visitors to explore their ideas and uncover products new ways to enhance their gear created from sustainably. agricultural and herbal waste, and embracing the latest in polyester textiles, Sanitized Odoractiv, communication technology to enable to prevent the formation of odours and transparency and traceability through the in particular the persistent smell supply chain to consumers - from nature (permastink) heavily criticised by to fashion. Archroma's EarthColors were consumers. This technology has been selected for the ISPO Textrends Forum awarded the Swiss Technology Award. for Fall/Winter 2019/20, Eco Era Color Atlas category, by an independent jury of textile experts. The ISPO Textrends Eco The Color Atlas by Archroma is a Era features innovations with a strong physical and online colour library sustainability element. system comprising over 4300 colour references. Smartrepel Hydro Archroma sponsored the ISPO Smartrepel Hydro is a natureAcademy Masterclass, which gathered friendlier protection agent based on about 30 young designers selected from distinctive micro-encapsulated, non-PFC the best design schools and universities based technology offering exceptional, around the world to participate in an exdurable water repellency to polyester, clusive training program. Participants polyamide and cotton-based textiles. utilised the Color Atlas by Archroma to preAt the show, Archroma introduced pare their work and presentations at ISPO. its brand new Smartrepel Hydro AM, a Easy-to-use Outdoor Solution ‘universal' addition to the range, Navigator touchscreens were available allowing seamless application on at the booth to encourage visitors to all fibres with the same high level explore their ideas and uncover new of per formance as the rest of the ways to enhance their gear sustainably. Smartrepel technology.

Sanitized Odoractiv Archroma introduced, for the first time, to ISPO visitors a new active-odour-control technology for

ISPO Munich: Digitalisation drives growth in the sporting goods industry

At the ISPO Munich held recently, the snowy setting boosted interest in winter sports products and filled the corridors during the four-day event. In addition to the latest winter sports equipment, the 2,801 companies at the fair showcased

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 9

BUSINESSNEWS

innovations and trends in the areas of outdoor, and health and fitness. The focal point was the increasing digitalisation of the sporting goods industry, a topic that was explored in the new format ISPO Digitize.

Klaus Dittrich, Chairman and CEO of Messe München, said: ‘With ISPO Digitize, we have pointed the way to the future for the sporting goods industr y and sports retailing. The next step will be to apply this positive momentum and

Atlas Material Testing Technology launches redesigned website Weathering technology is a mix of science and experience. Atlas Material Testing Technology is bringing both to its newly redesigned website - www.atlas-mts.com. As a global leader in materials testing, Atlas, used extensive customer research to simplify site navigation and deliver information-rich content that users are seeking. Visitors can now access an expanded Knowledge Center offering in-depth product information, videos and recorded webinars. They can also sign up for a full calendar of educational events including webinars, seminars and workshops. There is also a calendar listing conferences that Atlas hosts throughout the year on material testing trends and advancements in weathering testing. A newly added Applications section provides detailed content for vertical industry applications, such as automotive, textiles and pharmaceuticals. ‘Our customers told us that they Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 10

were looking for more product and testing information that applied to the needs of their particular industries,’ said Andreas Riedl, Director of Marketing. ‘The navigation, content and organisation of our redesign reflects their input.’ In Q2, 2018, the redesigned website will also be available in Chinese, Japanese, Korean, French, German and Spanish, in addition to the current English version. For over 100 years, Atlas has been a leader in materials testing, offering a complete line of weathering testing instrumentation, laboratory and outdoor testing services. Its markets include automotive, paint and coatings, plastics and additives, textiles, pharmaceutical and consumer products, architecture, aerospace, photovoltaics, and packaging. In addition to lightfastness and weathering instruments, Atlas also produces corrosion and flammability testing instruments and provides client education and technical consulting services worldwide.

to get more people excited about sports.’ Representatives of sports retailing and the sporting goods industry had an opportunity to learn about digital solutions in product development, manufacture, marketing and sales. With the help of the Digital Readiness Check, they could see just how fit their own business is. The winter spor ts segment attracted a large number of visitors this year. Powered by new trends and the use of new technologies in winter sports products, this area is generating huge amounts of interest. ‘We intend to respond to this dynamic development and will intensify our collaboration work with ski manufacturers,’ announced Klaus Dittrich, the Chairman and CEO of Messe München. The ISPO Munich Sports Week brought the excitement about the products to the city of Munich and spoke directly to end consumers. ‘We intend to expand this concept further.’ The outdoor segment at ISPO Munich has continually grown. ‘The understanding about what outdoor is has changed over the years,’ Dittrich says. ‘In addition to water sports, running and fitness, the segment now includes fashion as well.’ More than 84,000 industry visitors from 120 countries came to Munich (2017: 86,841). ISPO Munich enhanced its international character once again. The largest growth was produced (in this sequence) by Austria, Japan, Turkey, the Czech Republic, Great Britain and the United States. A total of 2,801 exhibitors showcased their products and innovations. This represents an increase of 2% as compared to 2017.

Archroma joins the UN Global Compact Initiative

Archroma, a global leader in colour and speciality chemicals, has become a signatory of the United Nations Global Compact, joining the world's leading voluntary corporate social responsibility initiative, with more than 9,500 participating companies from 160 countries. As part of its deep-rooted commitment to lead the way toward making its industry more sustainable,

BUSINESSNEWS Archroma formally pledges to support and promote the UN Global Compact's 10 principles in the areas of human rights, labour, the environment and anticorruption. This is fully aligned with Archroma's Sustainability Policy and Code of Conduct. In its 4 years of existence, Archroma has already made a recognised contribution to its commitment to make its industry more sustainable. The company introduced several innovations aiming to make textile or paper manufacturing more sustainable, such as its biomass-based EarthColors range or non-fluorinated Smartrepel waterrepellent finish. Archroma also implemented advanced, resource-saving manufacturing processes at several of its production facilities, such as its zero discharge facility in Jamshoro, Pakistan. ‘Archroma shares the UN Global Compact goal to contribute to a more stable and inclusive global market and help build prosperous and thriving societies. We also believe that advancing the cause of sustainability is an ongoing effort, and that being a participant to the UN Global Compact will help us to walk further down this path and to convince those in our sphere of influence to join along,' comments Alexander Wessels, CEO of Archroma.

Breakthrough in bulk production of indigo spray dyeing by DyStar DyStar and RotaSpray successfully developed their indigo spray dyeing procedure for production on a bulk level which allows denim producers to significantly reduce their environmental impact. The solution was first introduced at ITMA Milan in 2015. Since then, DyStar and RotaSpray have been working together to develop it further and make it available for bulk

production in important Denim markets like Turkey, India and Pakistan. With the recent breakthrough, they are now announcing a salt-less dyeing solution for the denim industry. This new technology is awarded important ECO cer tificates and offers high flexibility for dyeing small lot sizes, reduced water usage and effluent discharge lower impact on yarn in the dyeing process and simplified recipe changes. The new Spray dyeing technology combines DyStar Indigo Vat 40% solution, Sera Con C-RDA (a unique organic reducing agent) and the effective optimisation of spraying parameters of the EPO patented RotoDyer and the RotoCoater spraying technology. Although rotary atomizers have been established for several decades in the textile industry, they were mainly used for rewetting textiles with moisture. But, recent cost pressure and a global demand for more sustainable solutions were motivators for the R&D of the industr y, and led to the recent technology leap. On sheet dyeing ranges (slasher), with process and layout modifications, coatings including DyStar Indigo Coat, Cassulfon, Remazol/Levafix and Imperon dyes can be applied by spray dyeing as well. The spray application of fixing agents and oxidation chemicals can be integrated into sheet dyeing (slasher) as well as rope dyeing machines. DyStar Indigo Vat 40% solution has always been a step ahead of the

cleanest dyeing process on the market for the denim industry. This is another innovative step to offer best available technology to the industry.

Italian textile machinery a major player at Techtextil Russia

A total of 22 companies will be on hand at Italy’s exhibition space, including the following ACIMIT associated members: Beta, Bombi, Bonino, Cibitex, Cognetex, Durst, Fabotex, Fadis, Ferraro, Guarneri, Mcs, Cosmatex, Pugi, Ratti, Reggiani, Salmoiraghi, Sariel, Santex Rimar Group, Smit, Sicam, Tessil Gomma etc. The trade fair event arrives at a time of growth for Russia’s textile sector. Indeed, the Russian authorities have initiated pilot projects specifically targeting the modernisation of existing technology in the textile sector, and increasing the supply of local products on the Russian market. The production of technical textiles, in particular, is deemed by competent government authorities to constitute a driver in reviving the fate of Russia’s textile industry. As ACIMIT president Alessandro Zucchi explains, ‘This restructuring phase provides an opportunity to further strengthen existing relations between Russian textile manufacturers and Italian technology suppliers, which are already in good stead, thanks to the promotional initiatives launched by ACIMIT and the ICE-Agency over the DyStar and RotaSpray successfully developed their past few years.’ indigo spray dyeing procedure for production on a ‘The result of this interaction bulk level for denim production between Italy’s textile machinery manufacturers and Russian producers,’ adds Zucchi, ‘is the Russian market’s constant presence among primary destinations for Italian exports of textile machinery.’ In 2016, Italy exported 22 million worth of textile Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 11

BUSINESSNEWS which are used in road marking, resurfacing and roofing applications. The investment is the latest in a series of recent investments at the Los Reyes site by the company's Polymer Chemistry business. In January 2017, it finalised a 22 million organic Italian textile machinery exports to Russia (million Euro) peroxides expansion, followed in May 2017 by the completion of a project which increased overall peroxyester capacity in North America by 40%. The latest expansion project is expected to be completed by May 2019. ‘We have a growing portfolio of customers, so continued investment Italian textile machinery exports to Russia by categories (Jan-July 2017) to increase production capability at Los Reyes is critical to ensure we continue machinery to Russia, whereas figures to meet demand while positioning updated to the first seven months of ourselves for sustainable growth,' 2017 show a 51% increase as explains Johan Landfors, Executive compared to the same period for 2016, Committee Member responsible for for a corresponding value of 11 Polymer Chemistry. ‘Mexico is an million. important market for us. Expanding our AkzoNobel launches operations in Los Reyes also means we will need to hire more people, which is 12 mn expansion good news for the local economy.' in Mexico Over the last three years, the AkzoNobel Specialty Chemicals is investing more than 12 million to expand production capacity and upgrade its organic peroxides facility in Los Reyes, Mexico. Organic peroxides are essential ingredients in the manufacturing of a wide range of polymers. The project involves construction of a new facility to make Perkadox CH-50 organic peroxides, which are sold primarily into the thermoset resin market, where the company is a global market leader. One of the key growth segments for this market is ambient temperature curing of acrylic resins, Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 12

Polymer Chemistry business has invested more than 100 million to better serve its customers in the polymer industry, upgrading technologies, increasing capacity and repositioning its global manufacturing footprint.

Clariant expands operations at its Mexican facility

Clariant, a world leader in speciality chemicals, completed the project to expand its industrial facility in Coatzacoalcos, Veracruz, and increased production capacity by around 15%. This investment in the expansion of the plant was made to strengthen the group's ability to serve industrial and consumer markets - not only in Mexico, but around the world, especially in the Americas. Hariolf Kottmann, CEO of Clariant, said: ‘To make progress on our way to becoming a leading speciality chemicals company, Clariant focuses on the allocation of investments in areas with excellent growth potential. One of these important strategic markets in the Americas is Mexico, particularly due to its growth potential, its export strength and our highly motivated and qualified workforce'. Fernando Hernandez, Country Head of Clariant Mexico, added: ‘We have a strong presence in Mexico, with production plants, laboratories, and sales offices located in Santa Clara (Mexico State), Puebla, and Coatzacoalcos, which provides solutions to multiple industries, and we continuously invest in new technologies to better meet the needs of our customers'. The expansion project in Coatzacoalcos took approximately two years to complete, concluding within the planned timeframe and budget and with zero accidents. Since its opening in 2002, the Coatzacoalcos plant

BUSINESSNEWS has continuously been expanded over the last 15 years. It currently occupies an area of 76,000 m2, has over 100 employees and manufactures a wide variety of Clariant products. With more than 50 years of operations in Mexico, Clariant continues to have a long history of being a preferred provider of speciality chemicals and relies on a strategy of continuous growth. Clariant's facilities have grown over these 50 years and employ more than 600 people in its operations in Santa Clara (Mexico State), which is the national headquarters, Puebla (Puebla State) and Coatzacoalcos (Veracruz).

The online fast fabric sampling tool 'Heiq it!'

The textile brands' product and fabric innovation development and verification process is usually cumbersome and lengthy, especially the sourcing of functional fabric samples used for reallife wearer trials. The Swiss textile innovator, HeiQ, surveyed dozens of fabric and innovation managers at textile brands to get an in-depth insight into the daily life processes of innovation and was confronted with a major unmet need: rapid verification of innovation ideas. Repeatedly respondents experienced a lead time of upto three months, from the first contact until receiving viable samples for prototyping and verification. Long sample verification times carry the risk of failure and missing the annual timeline for new innovations to launch. In order to provide verified functional fabric samples quicker, HeiQ has developed ‘Heiq it!', a one-of-its-kind Fast Fabric Sampling Tool. ‘heiq it!'is an online fabric configuration platform, enabling fabric managers at textile brands to get functional fabrics within two weeks. Once registered online, brands will have the possibility to choose a suitable fabric type and structure from HeiQ's premium fabric library for their target garment. In a next step, the desired functionality combination is added from HeiQ's wide range of textile technologies, like

dynamic cooling, advanced UV protection and durable odour control. In a further step, the testing and specifications are selected. And finally, ‘Heiq it!' provides the option to either order dozens of metres of treated functional fabric or ready-to-test assembled half-side or fully treated tech-shirts to per form real-life wearer trials. Once the desired functional fabric sample has been configured and ordered, HeiQ's application specialist in Switzerland starts to produce the sample and coordinates its performance verification testing. Altogether, ‘Heiq it!' is going to accelerate, simplify and standardise the functional fabric sample ordering process, leaving more time for the essential wearer trial testing and performance evaluation of brands' next textile product innovation. Fabric managers at brands are empowered to fast-track the creation of novel and enhanced garments while reducing the risk of failures. HeiQ constantly strives for providing its brand partners with a firstin-class innovation and differentiation service support. The backbone of the ‘Heiq it!' fast fabric sampling tool is, on the one hand, a strong partnership and collaboration with some of the world's leading premium fabric manufacturing mills like Sitip (Italy), Pontetorto (Italy), Tessitura Taiana Virgilio (Italy), Borgini Jersey (Italy) and E Schellenberg

Textildruck/Greuter Jersey (Switzerland) equipping the ‘Heiq it!' fabric librar y, and, on the other hand, an advanced online product configuration system and a continuous Swiss pilot finishing line. End of March 2018, ‘Heiq it!' is going to go live and will be available to innovation managers and fabric managers from textile brands globally. At ISPO Munich, interested fabric managers already received an exclusive preview into the unique Swiss Fast Fabric Sampling Tool and tested the prototype at the HeiQ booth.

BRÜCKNER finishing lines for textile mega project

BRÜCKNER supplies the dry finishing lines for stage 1 of a joint venture between the state-owned Algerian companies Groupe C&H, TEXALG, SNTA and the Turkish Group TAY with more than forty years of experience in the textile area, founded to build one of the biggest textile mills of the world. This mega project comprises of several stages which will be realised within the next years. The project has far-reaching and multi-purpose aims: Algeria shall become as independent as possible of the textile imports in medium terms and this project will create a great number of jobs. On a ground of about 2,500,000 m2

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 13

BUSINESSNEWS

View of the planned TAYAL mega project

and with an investment volume of US$ 800,000,000, several vertically structured textile plants will be built in

the next years, specialising in various categories of textile end products. What is especially great is that the new

DuPont introduces heated clothing technology at ISPO DuPont Advanced Materials (DuPont) recently announced the newest offering from DuPont Intexar a powered smart clothing technology for on-body heating. Intexar Heat is a

DuPont Intexar

thin lightweight and durable heating solution for outdoor clothing designed to be easily integrated into garments. DuPont highlighted Intexar Heat in partnership with the Formosa Taffeta Company (FTC) at the ISPO 2018 at Munich, Germany. ‘Intexar Heat is a revolutionary stretchable ink and film that, when powered, creates a comfortable warmth,' said Michael Burrows, global Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 14

business manager, DuPont Advanced Materials. ‘Our team has worked hard to develop a heater that feels like fabric, does not rely on cables, thick wires or big batteries, and can stand up to very cold environments. From outdoor enthusiasts to industrial workers, Intexar Heat can help conquer the elements in comfort, increasing focus and improving performance.' FTC is the first textile manufacturer to take advantage of Intexar Heat technology as par t of its Permawarm line. Permawarm delivers clothing brands, a complete garment heater system, including the Intexar heater, connectors and control software. ‘With Permawarm, clothing brands can focus on garment design and brand engagement. We are taking the guesswork out of bringing their customers safe and comfortable heated garments,' said James Lee, president of FTC. Intexar materials also can enable biometric monitoring in smart clothing. Pulse rate, respirator y rate, muscle activity and form awareness are all measurable using sensors and conductive pathways built from Intexar.

company will also have a huge internal service and training centre for many new workers. It was a long way before BRÜCKNER was awarded the contract for the supply, installation and commissioning of so many machines for dry finishing. The coordination team for the project was selected very carefully. The result was a highly experienced and competent crew, compiled with the aim to select the suppliers according to many different criteria and always striving for the highest standards. The selection of possible machine suppliers was made according to three main criteria: productivity, quality of the products, and highest possible energy efficiency. In addition, the team focused on the available local service as well as on fast and flexible after sales services. BRÜCKNER was chosen in dr y finishing as the best option in all the above mentioned points and could convince the coordinators with a long-lasting and reliable cooperation in the past. The first step of the project has been divided into a denim, a non-denim and a knitwear section. The machinery in question are complete, fully integrated production lines for the production of 12 million trousers, 6 million shirts and 12 million t-shir ts each year. The scope of supply comprises several stenters, sanfor ranges, thermosol dyeing and highly flexible denim finishing lines. All these machines are custom-made and provided with many options. The preparations to realise the next stage, which comprises the production of home textiles, are already under way.

Beaulieu launches multi-colour solution dyed yarns

Beaulieu Yarns, the global supplier of high-quality synthetic polyamide and polypropylene yarns, unveiled exciting potential for the high-end carpet tile market to fulfil its boldest colour and multilevel design desires with its series of multi-colour solution dyed yarns. Featured at Domotex 2018, the extra-resilient polyamide (PA) yarns

There’s a fine line between colorfast and failure Will your textile’s color stand up to the test? Atlas instruments help you get accurate and dependable information about your product’s color fastness to sunlight. Designed to meet the most common industry lightfastness standards such as ISO 105-B02 and AATCC 16.3, the Ci3000+ Fade-Ometer® and Xenotest® 220 provide best-in-class performance for uniform test conditions and instrument reliability. Both models feature multiple language options for easier programming. The Ci3000+ may be equipped with an optional spray system for exterior textile testing, while the Xenotest 220’s generous 38 sample test capacity and efficient utility usage make it today’s most economical textile testing instrument available. Download the Xenotest 220 and Ci3000+ brochures at www.atlas-mts.com

Test it before you tout it.

Asian_Dyer_April-Nov_2017.indd 1

3/8/2017 10:24:44 AM

BUSINESSNEWS meet the highest standards (Class 33) for the strongest and heaviest contract applications, such as in commercial offices, hospitality and leisure, education and healthcare premises. The yarns are produced as multi-colour solution dyed yarns from 2600 to 3200 dtex. Beaulieu Yarns' in-house masterbatch department offers customers access to endless colour and contrast possibilities, implying that yarns are fully customisable to suit latest trends and the incorporation of novel design patterns. To demonstrate the design flexibility, the team focused on ‘Biophillic Designs', a trend in the market related

our key accounts is a great example of our industry-exclusive approach to development support, with customers able to explore colour choice and finalise their collections on-site at our global development centre.'

OEKO-TEX new regulations for 2018

In 2018, the OEKO-TEX Association endeavours to provide further targeted support on issues relating to consumer protection and sustainability throughout the textile value creation chain. The existing guidelines of the OEKOTEX product portfolio were updated on 2 January 2018. The new regulations come into effect on 1 April 2018 for all certification systems and other services, following a threemonth transition period. The updates of OEKO-TEX standards and guidelines are based on the continuous exchange of experience with The pull of nature, magnificently captured by yarns. Beaulieu industry Yarns, passionately replicating nature. stakeholders, to the magnificence of nature, creating cooperation with initiatives and two proprietary designs inspired by the monitoring of legal regulations. The work coast of Normandy, France and the of OEKO-TEX expert groups thus takes Australian Barrier Reef. Beaulieu Yarns worked closely with key customer TAPIBEL on a project to test out the feasibility and resilience of the new yarns on the new tufting technology machines favoured by tufters serving the high segments of contract carpet. Within the INCATI brand, TAPIBEL launched the resulting new carpet tile range at Domotex 2018. ‘Supporting our customers' innovation in new tufting technology is very important to us and we are therefore delighted to offer a broad series of yarns for high-end carpets that really paves the way for them to expand their creativity in tile design and structure,' comments Emmanuel Colchen, Global Sales Director Beaulieu Yarns. ‘The development project with

into account current scientific innovations and knowledge as well as latest market developments.

DETOX to ZERO Thanks to the comparability of the DETOX TO ZERO MRSL with the valid MRSL for the STeP by OEKO-TEX certification, DETOX TO ZERO can be fully integrated into STeP. DETOX TO ZERO customers can convert to STeP at any time. The restructuring of the DETOX TO ZERO assessment tool and status report improves usability and clarity.

ECO PASSPORT The ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) initiative accepts the ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX as an indicator of conformity with their MRSL (harmful substance exclusion list for textile production). Upon approval, companies can have their products certified by ECO PASSPORT. Bisphenol A is among the new substances to be recorded by ECO PASSPORT. Other new included substances are additional alkylphenols (pentyl- and heptylphenol) and the aromatic amine aniline. One can now list upto five products from different categories on an ECO PASSPORT certificate. Previously, an individual certificate had to be issued for every product category. Now, not only manufacturers of chemicals receive an ECO PASSPORT certificate for their products, but also retailers and

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 17

BUSINESSNEWS

ASEAN & South Asia dyestuff for textile markets to reach US$ 1,938.9 million The apparel industry is witnessing tremendous growth in the current scenario, owing to the surge in demand for apparels such as outerwear, jeans, t-shirts, innerwear, shorts, dresses, trousers, children’s wear, and socks, across the world.

For example, as per NDP Group Inc., in 2016, the apparel sales in the US, increased by 19% for men’s, women’s, and children’s apparels. Accordingly, the demand for dyestuff (black colour) used in the manufacturing process of these wide range of apparels is also growing. On the basis of type, the ASEAN and South Asia dyestuff for textile market is segmented into reactive dyes, disperse dyes, vat dyes, direct dyes, acid dyes, sulphur dyes, and others. Reactive dyes held the largest share of the ASEAN and South Asia dyestuff for textile market, in terms of both value and volume, in 2016. The main characteristic of reactive dyes is the formation of a covalent bond with cellulose, which is the key component of cotton fibres, making it the most permanent of all dyes. This makes reactive dyes a preferred choice over other dyes in the ASEAN and South importers of chemicals distributed by them can certify their chemicals under certain conditions. From 2018, chemical manufacturers are no longer obligated to disclose secret formulas. In such cases, however, more extensive Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 18

Asia dyestuff for textile markets. India held the largest share of the ASEAN and South Asia dyestuff for textile market, in terms of both revenue and volume, in 2016. There has been a significant growth in the dyestuff industry during the last decade, which has created an export opportunity for India in the ASEAN and South Asia dyestuff for textile market. Due to the enforcement of strict pollution control norms, several units in countries such as the US, Germany, France, and the UK, has resulted in a closure of units, which has given rise to capacity building in India and has, hence made the country a largest market in dyestuff for textiles. Bangladesh held the second largest share of the ASEAN and South Asia dyestuff for textile market, in terms of both revenue and volume, in 2016. Bangladesh is emerging as an exporting nation of textile products. The demand of dyes in the country has increased significantly in recent years. Low-wage labour and easy raw material availability are some of the prime factors driving the country’s dyestuff for textile market. The dyestuff sector is one of the important segments of the chemical industry in Bangladesh. The country imports almost 95% of the textile dyestuff, majorly from China, India, Thailand, Taiwan, Korea, Sri Lanka, US, Germany, Italy, Spain, Singapore, Switzerland and Turkey. analytical testing is required to obtain an ECO PASSPORT certificate.

MADE in GREEN The minimum requirements and criteria for awarding the MADE IN

GREEN by OEKO-TEX product label have been updated. Advantages of the new definition are improved comprehensibility and less time for label attainment.

STANDARD 100 The newly recorded harmful substances in the STANDARD 100 criteria catalogue are phenol, bisphenol A, the aromatic amine aniline as well as the additional alkylphenols, pentyland heptylphenol. The OEKO-TEX Association henceforth places the substance quinoline under observation. Amended limit values also apply for short-chain chlorinated paraffins (SCCP) and ortho-phenylphenol (OPP). As of 1 April 2018, OEKO-TEX plans to integrate the testing of organic cotton products for genetically modified organisms (GMO) into STANDARD 100.

STeP The scope of STeP assessments for the survey of required company data is significantly reduced by condensing the questionnaire. The integration of DETOX TO ZERO allows now to issue the STeP certificate and the status report additional with information on DETOX TO ZERO.

Croda acquires Finnish technology company IonPhasE

UK’s speciality chemicals firm, Croda, has acquired IonPhasE, a technology supplier of static electricity protection products headquartered in Tampere, Finland. Operating in some of the fastest growing segments within the plastics market, IonPhasE has developed and supplies a unique range of antistatic additives that help to prevent damage to electrical components, increase the safety of chemical and food packaging and improve the long-term appearance of consumer appliances. Focused on Electrostatic Discharge Protection (ESD) and Inherently Dissipative Polymers (IDPs), IonPhasE’s products are said to use the most advanced technologies in the static electricity protection market, which work to release static electricity in a controlled way. Croda said that the acquisition will

BUSINESSNEWS support its growth strategy within high technology, consumer driven markets and meets the increasing demand for polymer additives that control the static electricity in automotive parts, household appliances as well as personal electronic devices and other sensitive components.

Filtration textiles evolve to meet performance demands

With technical textiles innovation evolving apace, the sector’s headlines are often dominated with industry firsts, ranging from developments in smart wearables through to the cuttingedge fabrics that end up in space. But when it comes to high performance textiles, filtration media often goes under the radar. Andy Smith from Arville, a leading technical textiles specialist, shined the spotlight on this commonly overlooked area of technical textiles. ‘Rolls goods, sleeves, socks, bags, cloths and sheets, are just some of the various types of media that make up the large family of wet and dry filtration products,’ he said. ‘These bespoke micron-rated fabrics can be designed to a specified particle size and flow-rate, giving customers exacting filtration materials across a wide arena of applications.’ The company is a specialist in

providing a fully integrated solution for bespoke technical textiles used across a wide range of industries for wet and dry separation and filtration purposes, providing both roll-stock fabrics and pre-

fabricated textile components. ‘And the market is not standing still. As refinement processes become more complex and demanding, filtration media has to advance in parallel, in terms of everything from the fibres used, to the weave construction, and the consistency of the resulting filtration process itself. Per formance criteria will only become more multifaceted over time, and that is before any thought is given to sector-specific legislative frameworks that the filtration media has to work within,’ Mr Smith explained.

Chemetall becomes BASF's new global brand for innovative surface treatment technologies

It is just over an year since BASF's Coatings division acquired Chemetall, a leading global surface treatment supplier. Being well-known within the industry for its high-quality products and solutions, Chemetall will operate as a brand of the Surface Treatment global business unit of BASF's Coatings division. During festive events at its headquarters in Frankfurt, Germany and facilities worldwide, the new brand image of Chemetall was officially introduced. Martin Jung, Senior Vice President, Surface Treatment, BASF's Coatings division, recognised this milestone: ‘Our new brand image reflects the impressive know-how of BASF in chemistr y and coatings applications with the market-leading expertise in applied surface treatment from Chemetall. Together, the businesses will offer unmatched solutions competence to customers.' BASF has long been recognised as a global innovation leader. Chemetall enjoys a great history of global recognition for providing its customers

with high-performance products and individual solutions. The combination of expertise and innovation power of these two global market leaders will accelerate innovation and drive even more customer success. Julia Murray, Global Marketing Communications Surface Treatment, said: ‘The Chemetall brand is recognised for its technology leadership, and we take a great deal of pride in our customer-focused and customer-centric approach, locally and globally. Being part of BASF's Coatings division creates opportunities to increase customer benefits from our combined expertise and commitment to continuous innovation. We expect to further advance our customers' access to best-in-class technologies, systems, and solutions across the value chain, always with the goal of enhancing efficiencies and value for our customers.' Under the Chemetall brand, BASF develops and manufactures customised technology and systems solutions for applied surface treatment. The products protect metals from corrosion, facilitate forming and machining, allow parts to be optimally prepared for the painting process and ensure proper coating adhesion. These products are used in a Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 19

BUSINESSNEWS wide range of industries and endmarkets, such as automotive, aerospace, aluminum finishing, and metal forming.

Hohenstein restructures its operational areas

To fulfil current market demands more effectively, the Hohenstein Group in Bönnigheim has restructured their divisions. ‘We have streamlined our organisational structure and closely merged our operational areas that focus on similar issues’, says owner Prof Dr Stefan Mecheels. Dr Christof Madinger was appointed as the COO for the testing and cer tification of clothing, home textiles, technical textiles and raw materials as well as the evaluation of production facilities and product quality during inspections. Dr Stefan Droste assumed responsibility for the international subsidiaries of the Hohenstein Group alongside his duties as managing director. Thus, the company is accounting for the increasing importance of their global laboratory sites. To offer the same reliable ‘Hohenstein quality’ to customers across the globe is the aim of this constant expansion.

BRÜCKNER sets the course for the future Due to the strong demand for BRÜCKNER lines in the last years, an expansion of the production capacity was indispensable for the German technology supplier. There were no possibilities for expansion at the previous production site in Tittmoning (Bavaria), so the company came to the decision to build a completely new site near Tittmoning, at a distance of a few kilometers from the previous site. The company management never even thought of moving the production abroad since, by doing so, the company would lose invaluable employees and thus decades of experience and know-how. The ground breaking in September 2016 was followed by a one-year

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 20

Archroma’s Ultraphor KCB optical brightening agent finds use in water free CO2 dyeing process Archroma, a global leader in colour and speciality chemicals, recently announced that Tong Siang Co Ltd has chosen to use Archroma's Ultraphor KCB optical brightening agent to colour its white, highperformance sportswear. Thailand- based Tong Siang, a member of the Yeh Group, is making these products using what is

considered by the industry as the world's first water-free and process chemical-free dyeing solution. The technology in question is based on carbon dioxide instead of water, and was developed and patented by Dutch process engineering company DyeCoo Textile Systems B V. Textiles produced by Tong Siang, using this technology, are branded as DryDye fabrics. When pressurised, CO2 becomes ‘supercritical' (SC-CO2), a phase between a liquid and a gas. In this state, CO2 has a very high solvent power, allowing the dye to dissolve and be transported easily and deeply into fibres, creating bright whites and vibrant colours. The CO2 is reclaimed from existing industrial processes, recycling 95% of it in a closed-loop system. The technology uses 100% pure dyes with more than 98% uptake, and uses no process chemicals and no water, and produces no wastewater. With increased scrutiny by construction period. In November 2017, BRÜCKNER began step by step to move the production to the new production site. In spring 2018, the moving will be completed. The new plant comprises of 25,000 m2 of construction hall area and is

consumers and environmentalists alike, textile manufacturers are eagerly seeking new, sustainable dyeing techniques that do not harm the environment. Archroma's range of optical brightening agents (OBAs) for polyester - the Ultraphor series - is a perfect solution to meet this need. Ultraphor KCB is a high-quality concentrate manufactured at Archroma's dedicated OBA plant in Germany, and is proven to be ideally suited for this waterfree, CO2 dyeing technology. Tong Siang has extensively tested Ultraphor and is successfully using it in bulk production, with the resulting products meeting Tong Siang's customers' demanding needs related to colour, performance and environmental friendliness. Ultraphor KCB represents Archroma's first entry into the CO2 dyeing field, and the company is looking to introduce further colouration and finishing effects in the future. ‘While humans have used water to dye fabrics for more than 2000 years, today water is an increasingly scarce resource that needs to be conserved. DyeCoo's CO2 dyeing process offers an important step for ward and we, at Archroma, are pleased to be able to help advance broader use of this ecofriendlier approach,' comments Andrew McDonald, Global Head of Business Development, Synthetic & Wool, Archroma's Brand & Performance Textile Specialties Business. provided with the latest production technology. Since this is a completely new building, all optimisation potentials regarding material flow and workplace design could be used. The increasing sales success during the last years and the

BUSINESSNEWS systematic expansion of BRÜCKNER's nonwovens sector had a significant influence on the decision to build this new site. In 2017, BRÜCKNER sold the TECHNO-LINE NONWOVENS product line, several lines for the production of geo-nonwovens, light nonwovens consolidated with bonding agents for the medical sector, voluminous thermo-fusioned filler nonwovens for the furniture industr y and thermo-fusion ovens for ADL, topsheet and backsheet for the hygienics industry. Par ticularly in the field of hygienic nonwovens, a trend shows towards products of a better quality with a smoother hand and of more uniform texture. With the development of a new generation of air-through oven, BRÜCKNER created the preconditions to provide customers all over the world with the technology to produce these high quality end products. The successful sales of the new oven generation SUPRA-FLOW BA to renowned nonwovens producers all over the world confirms once again the innovation power of BRÜCKNER. Particular attention was given to a gentle transport of the not yet bonded web, a particularly uniform air flow through the web as well as a constant temperature distribution across the complete working width. Important findings from ver y different thermal treatment systems of related BRÜCKNER product lines could be integrated into the construction design. The continuously increasing number of inquiries for this new type of oven shows that the extensive development effor ts were definitely justified and that the new belt oven corresponds absolutely to the market requirements.

HeiQ launches world's first 100% bio-based, nonantimicrobial, nonsilver odour control technology The Swiss textile innovator HeiQ launched HeiQ Fresh FFL (Fresh For

Long), a 100% bio-based odour control technology at ISPO 2018 recently. The product targets the sportswear and intimate segment, with application especially suitable for seamless garments made of synthetics that are prone to permastink. HeiQ Fresh FFL is a non-antimicrobial alternative to traditional odour control in textiles. This sustainable, fully biomass-derived amino-sugarpolymer functions by binding proteins and other sweat components that can cause odour. The HeiQ Fresh FFL biopolymer supports ready removal of these sweat components during home laundering. As a non-antimicrobial solution to odour control, the regulatory obligations normally associated with biocides are of no relevance when applying HeiQ Fresh FFL on garments and other textile products. ‘Odour control efficacy is maximised with the correct technologyfibre match, as well as the right application of the technology in the textile finishing process. While most odour-control textile finishing target polyester, the application is often limited to padding, which is not utilised for textiles that seamless garments are made of. HeiQ Fresh FFL can be used

on both cellulosic and synthetic fibres. The flexibility of application of HeiQ Fresh FFL - can be done through either exhaust or padding - means that brands can apply it freely on different fibre and product design, including seamless garments,' says Ralf Mundinger, HeiQ's Head of Technology Application, ‘We see this as a clear advantage for our brand partners in the sportswear and intimate segment.' Par ticipants in a multi-day wear trial confirmed that the odour control efficacy of HeiQ Fresh FFL is much better than the best silver antimicrobial textile finishing on the market (control).

BASF to acquire Solvay's global polyamide business

BASF and Solvay have signed an agreement related to the sale of Solvay's integrated polyamide business to BASF. According to applicable laws, the intended transaction is subject to consultations with the relevant social bodies of Solvay, following which both companies will enter a binding purchase agreement. Solvay and BASF aim to close the transaction in the third quarter of 2018, after customary

BASF SE with its main site in Ludwigshafen is the heart of the BASF Group. With around 250 productions facilities, hundreds of laboratories, technical centres, factories and offices in an area of approximately ten square kilometers, the site is the largest integrated chemical complex in the world. As the headquarters of BASF, it is also the cradle of the Verbund concept, where production facilities, energy flows and logistics are linked together intelligently in order to utilise resources as efficiently as possible.

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 23

BUSINESSNEWS regulatory approvals have been obtained and the formal consent of a joint venture partner has been received. The partner has already committed to grant its consent subject to the deliver y of definitive documents with BASF. The acquisition would complement BASF's engineering plastics portfolio and expand the company's position as a solution provider for the transportation, construction, industrial applications and consumer industries. Regionally, the transaction would enhance access to key growth markets in Asia and South America. At the same time, the purchase would strengthen BASF's polyamide 6,6 value chain through increased polymerisation capacities and the backward integration into the key raw material ADN (adipodinitrile). Solvay has approximately 2,400 employees globally, thereof approximately 1,300 in France. Worldwide, it operates 12 production sites, 4 R&D locations and 10 technical support centres. The business would be integrated into BASF's Performance Materials and Monomers divisions.

INDIAN Grasim gets approval for expansion of viscose staple fibre

Grasim Industries has received green nod for expanding the production of manmade fibre VSF (viscose staple fibre) at Bharuch, Gujarat, that will entail an investment of 2,560 crores. The company has four VSF plants in India, of which two are located in Gujarat, one each in Kharach and Vilayat in Bharuch district. Grasim’s VSF plant

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 24

RIL to push polyester business with RElan Mukesh Ambani’s Reliance Industries (RIL) is set to increase its presence in the polyester space after the launch of its new brand, RElan, through which it will get into cobranding of apparel. The largest

manufacturer of polyester in the country, it has an annual capacity of 2 million tons (mt), almost half of the countr y’s 4.5 mt. The firm expects 5% yearly growth in this segment. China, with 45 mt manufacturing capacity out of 70 mt globally, is much ahead of India. As per the proposal, the company’s Grasim Cellulosic division wants to expand its Vilayat plant. In a letter issued to Grasim Industries, the Union Environment Ministr y has said it has given the environment clearance to the company’s proposal on expansion of Vilayat unit subject to compliance of certain conditions. The company’s proposal is to increase the production capacity of VSF from 1,27,750 tons per annum (tpa) to 2,55,500 tpa. ‘The board has approved a brownfield expansion of 3,523 crores at the Vilayat facility which will get commissioned by 2021,’ said Dilip Gaur, managing director of Grasim Industries. ‘Coupled with the existing expansion

For RElan, the new portfolio of speciality fabric, the firm has tied up with VF Corporation of America, owner of the world’s largest denim brand, Wrangler, to launch soon the Inficool denim range. ‘We are in talks with at least five leading domestic and international apparel brands to co-brand with the RElan brand. The co-branding will give RIL a foothold in the 250,000 crore Indian apparel industry, almost a 50-50 share of menswear and womenswear,’ said a senior firm official. The move might help to reduce India’s fabric import, averaging 500 million m2, valued at US$ 1.2 billion, in each of the past three years. The industry estimates that a little more than 90% of the fabric is from China, with the rest from Malaysia, Indonesia and South Korea. ‘The move will help India to reduce dependence on import of speciality fabrics, especially from China,’ said the official. and debottlenecking plan of 802 crores, the total capacity for VSF will be increased by 58% to 788 KTPA from the current 498 KTPA,’ he said. Grasim is the only producer of the fibre in the country. The company already has expansion projects worth 2,900 crores in process for both its VSF and chemicals business, taking the total spends on expanding capacities to more than 6,400 crores. The money will be spent over the next two and a half years.

Surat textile industry affected

Surat textile industry is still reeling under the GST impact. According to industry sources, especially in weaving and trading, capacity utilisation at most of the powerlooms and trading units is still down by 50% or lesser. While spinning units are finding takers in the knitting industry - which is currently doing better due to

BUSINESSNEWS the winter season - the other verticals in the textile chain, such as weaving and trading, are still finding business unsustainable, especially among smaller players. Against 40 million metres per day of production in the 500 billion synthetic textile hub of Surat, the current production is down to 2.5 million metres per day. Similarly in the weaving sector, against a 600 million daily turnover in the pre-GST era, the same is still down by 50%, said Mr Ashish Gujarati, president of the Pandesara Weavers’ Association. ‘Smaller traders are still hit. The matter is not just about the 5% GST the traders have to pay, it is about the additional costs of hiring accountants and investing in technology that is hitting the smaller traders’ pockets. This has led to a 50% decline in business,’ said Mr Hitesh Sanklecha, one of the traders leading the demands on changes in GST in the Surat textile trading industry. He added that at least three different industry associations, including silk weavers and textile processors, have made representations to the centre for relief from the impact of the GST on businesses.

Shree witnesses unprecedented growth of garments made with Liva

The company, Shree - the Indian avatar, has observed almost 1500% growth in demand for its garments made from Liva fabrics. Owing to the rise in demand of Liva, the new age fluid fabric from the Aditya Birla Group, Shree now boasts a production of 250,000 garments per month made from Liva from just 15,000 garments per month. Talking about the collaboration with LIVA, Sandeep Kapoor, an expert in textile and apparel Industry and Director of Shree - the Indian Avatar, stated, ‘Our success has a lot to do with the unique way in which we operate our business. We create, innovate and introduce 5 new trend collections

Visitors at the LIVA stall

Liva supports Shree in cobranding activities, with a focus to spread awareness for both Shree and Liva.

Colorant Ltd sponsors SDC technical seminar at Thane

Mr Subhash Bhargava, Technocrat & Founder, Colorant Ltd was the guest of honour at the half day seminar based on ‘Automise, Optimise or Perish’ held at Thane, Maharashtra recently. He explained how this theme is vital to any industry. He emphasised more on textile and dye industries and that those industries have survived till date who have introduced more of automation and optimised the process parameters and thought more about innovation. He also emphasised on being an SME. Colorant has introduced from time to time new innovative reactive dyes to become a consistent supplier of reactive dyes and caters to 650 end users and exports to about 15 countries. Dr Mahapatra, President, Colorant Ltd spoke about the ‘Reactive Dyes Past, Present and Future’ in which he mentioned the new range of reactive dyes launched by Colorant Ltd since the last few years which save time, energy, water etc in dyeing of cotton fabrics.

everyday, which is unlike any other garment manufacturing company in the countr y. This is a fast fashion model.’ Mr Kapoor further added, ‘We get immense support from Liva with respect to innovative fabrics and modern trends. With increasing popularity of Liva, we now have almost 98% of our collection made from Liva fabric.’ Shree gets good consumer insights from 24 EBOs and 1000 MBOs. These insights help to create new innovations on a daily basis. This also indicates that the supply chain has to be robust and fast. Liva Accredited Partner Forum (LAPF) has understood the requirement ver y well. LAPF has worked in close coordination with its partners and brought down the lead time of supplying the fabrics from 75 days to almost 25 days. According to Mr Manohar Samuel, President - Marketing, Birla Cellulose, ‘We are looking for partners who can understand consumers well, innovate continuously and also understand fabrics. Shree fits in all requirements ver y well. They have the ability to connect with every stratum, be it value chain or end consumers’. Mr Subhash Bhargava delivering his speech To fuel growth,

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 25

BUSINESSNEWS

Fineotex awarded at 2nd IPF Industrial Excellence Awards Fineotex is delighted to win an award at the 2nd IPF Industrial Excellence Awards 2017. ‘It is the acknowledgement of our DNA of

quality and commitment. We accept this award with sincere gratitude. The award gives us a sense of realisation of our vision and drives us to pursue He emphasised on using Colron CN and Colron SF dyes for light/medium shades and Colron GLX/Colron CES dyes for dark/heavy dark shades. All these dyes are give very good results. The seminar was arranged by SDC India officials and attended by Bhiwandi process house owners and technicians. There was technical interaction between the audience and the Colorant technical team led by Dr Mahapatra, Mr Chetan Mulani and Mr Sunil Jadhav.

Solidaridad, Stahl & PUM launch tannery project for effluents

Solidaridad, Stahl and PUM Netherlands senior experts and a number of Indian partners officially launched a public-private partnership to clean up the Ganges. The project endeavours to make the Kanpur leather cluster more sustainable by implementing new working methods and Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 26

higher goals in our future endeavours,’ according to the company. With over 38 years in the industry and having plants in India and Malaysia, Fineotex Chemical company is a public listed company in both the National Stock exchange and Bombay Stock Exchange, and is also a cer tified Star Export House. With a production capacity of over 22,000 mt/year, it is one of the fastest growing companies to be recognised in their field. In India, Fineotex is catering to the top corporate customers for specialised products and has an intensive distributors (channel partners) network, making their presence felt in all segments of the textile Industry. state-of-the-art technologies with a lower environmental impact. This fiveyear project aims to address several challenges related to overall water use and pollution from the Kanpur leather cluster, which is partly responsible for pollution loads in the Ganges. The overall objective of the fiveyear project is to reduce the effluent water discharged by at least 40% and to introduce alternative technologies and processes at tanneries with a reduced environmental impact. Solidaridad, Stahl and PUM are working together with the local partners Uttar Pradesh Leather Industry Association, Small Tanners Association, Central Leather Research Institute and Ganga Pollution Control Unit. The latter is part of the wider ‘Clean Ganga' initiative launched by the Indian government several years ago. Together, these partners will introduce environmentally cautious production methods and train tannery

staff on best practices. A Stahl Center of Excellence will be established to demonstrate more sustainable technologies. In addition, there are activities for downstream communities about efficient water use for irrigation and livestock farming. ‘Solidaridad sees cooperation with tanneries and governments as the key to a cleaner Ganges', says Gert van der Bijl, International Programme Manager, Livestock & Leather at Solidaridad. ‘Together we work on sustainable work practices for these tanneries. Solidaridad will introduce new technologies, business processes and trainings at all levels to diminish water use and pollution. Improving working conditions is an important focus.' With this project, Stahl reaffirms its commitment to achieving a more sustainable leather industry via transparency. ‘At Stahl, we believe in actively promoting safe usage of chemicals around the world,' says Michael Costello, Director Sustainability at Stahl. ‘We are well aware of the complex issues in the Kanpur leather cluster where some 400 tanneries discharge 50 million litres of waste water each day. We also understand that we alone cannot change the situation, so we have joined forces with industry partners and local authorities to contribute to the cleanup already underway of this iconic and sacred river,' he adds. The project is supported by The Sustainable Water Fund programme (FDW), a public-private partnership facility of the Dutch Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Solidaridad is the overall project coordinator and consortium leader, Stahl is the main private contributor and PUM provides technical assistance and training support from senior experts.

Textile park attracts 3000 crore investments

Korea-based Youngone Corporation, Welspun group and Gujarat-based Nandan Denim of Chiripal group have proposed to invest about 2,450 crore in the newly inaugurated Kakatiya textile

BUSINESSNEWS park in Warangal, among others. While the Korean company has proposed to invest about 1,000 crore, Welspun and Nandan Denim will be investing 750 crore and 700 crore, respectively. The State government has signed memorandum of understanding (MoUs) with 13 companies, which will invest in the Kakatiya Mega Textile park, Warangal. The investments will create 22,350 jobs through direct employment and 66,000 jobs indirectly. Claimed to be the country’s largest textile park, the park is betting on the fibre-tofashion concept. It is spread across 1,200 acres in its first phase and in total 2000 acres at Shyamapet, Chintapalli village.

The park has plug-and-play factory sheds for production of clothes. An advanced level testing laboratory will be setup in the park. To control the pollution levels, the textile park will ensure zero liquid discharge facilities. The companies which signed MoUs with the Telangana government include Suryavanshi Spining, Surya Uday Spinning Mills, Urbaknitt Fabs, Shivani Group, Ginni Filaments, The Swayamwar, Welspun Group, Youngone Corporation (overseas), Gokaldas Images, Nandan Denim (Chripal Group), Shahi Exports, Jaycot Industries and GK Threads. Meanwhile, eight other companies Suryalatha Spinning Mills, Seetharam Textiles, Suryalakshmi Cotton Mills, Sri Ram Spinning Mills, GMR spintex, Vijayalaxshmi Spintex, Ashtalakshmi Spinning Mill and GTN Industries - have also signed MoUs to invest 380 crore

in other districts of Telangana. These eight companies are expected to create 1,450 jobs.

India offers a onestop textiles sourcing hub for ASEAN : Textile minister

Ms Smriti Irani, India's Minister for Textiles, recently underlined India's strengths in all textile products, offering to the ASEAN countries a onestop sourcing destination for a diverse range of products. ASEAN industr y could take advantage of this by setting up manufacturing bases in India to cater to the domestic market and exports. Addressing the IndiaASEAN : Weaving Textile Relations show, celebrating 25 years of India-ASEAN relations, organised by FICCI in association with the Ministries of Textiles and Commerce and Industry, Ms Irani said that partnership between India and ASEAN was crucial for improving the standard of textile manufacturing and providing wage opportunities in both regions. The Minister, in the presence of ASEAN Ministers, released a coffee table book titled, ‘India ASEAN Textiles: Weaving Relationships'. Mr. Sandip Somany, Senior Vice President, FICCI and Vice Chairman & MD, HSIL Ltd, stated that FICCI, in partnership with the Ministry of Commerce and Industry, conceived of a project to celebrate India-ASEAN relationship with special focus on the traditional textiles industry, coinciding with the celebration of 25 years of India-ASEAN relationship during the commemorative summit. The project is a part of official programme of the Government of India. Mr Anant Kumar Singh, Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, stated that India was strong and competitive across the entire value chain starting from raw materials to finished

products. With a strong multi-fibre base and an abundant supply of raw materials like cotton, wool, silk, jute and manmade fibres, India enjoyed a distinct advantage of backward integration which many countries do not possess. Mr Singh noted that despite the operation of the FTA in goods with the ASEAN, India's exports of textiles and apparels to ASEAN have virtually been constant in the last few years and have not shown much traction. ‘Though India has the unique advantage of having the presence of the entire textile value chain, its most exported items to ASEAN consisting of cotton fibre, cotton yarn and fabrics have not grown to the desired extent. This makes it evident that we have not been able to explore and leverage the strengths of our textiles industry to the fullest,’ he noted. He also stressed the need for a robust framework for export of textiles and apparels between the two sides to give a fillip to trade. Dato Ramesh Kodammal, co-chair, ASEAN India Business Council & Chairman, Goldtex, Malaysia, said that the strength of textile bonds between ASEAN and India could be gauged from the fact that whatever was used by the people in the ASEAN region had an input from the Indian textile industry. This relationship was not just limited to cloth but extended to yarn, weaving, dyeing, machinery and the people connect. He urged the textile industry on both sides to work together and cash in on the demand from the huge middle class in the two regions. Mr Shishir Jaipuria, Chairman, FICCI Textiles Committee and CMD, Ginni Filaments Ltd, said that India-ASEAN relations in textiles cannot be limited to just trade and investments, and have multi-dimensional facets. Both India and ASEAN have some of the oldest weaving styles that need to be preserved and nurtured. ‘We need to have a more structured arrangement for our institutes and designers to have fusion of our traditional textiles. We also need to harness and pool the resources of our designers and work towards providing such talents the opportunity to move seamlessly between ASEAN countries and India to share their expertise and knowledge for the mutual betterment of our economic prospects.’ ¤ Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 29

DYEING & PRINTING

Discharge printing of compound shades from natural dyes using mordants M D Teli and Pradnya Ambre

T

extile printing is an ageold traditional craft and is also known as localised dyeing. It is the process of applying colour to the fabric in definite areas with the help of thick paste. As, in dyeing the whole textile material is immersed in the dye bath, the printing is done on the sur face of the fabric. The beginning of this art of ornamenting textiles by printing is believed to have originated in India and China where people practised hand printing by blocks of wood or metal. But, later on, discoveries found that even Egyptians were acquainted with the similar type of craft1. Technique of stencil printing originated in China and Japan, but the Japanese developed it to a high level of skill. The modern screen printing is nothing more or less

Fig 1 : (a) Direct style; (b) Resist style; (c) & (d) Discharge style

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 30

than an adaptation of the stencil printing2,3. The three main styles of printing are Direct, Resist and Discharge. Direct style of printing (Fig 1a) is a widely used technique wherein design or pattern is directly applied on the white or coloured textile fabric. In resist style of printing, the part of fabric is resisted from dyeing either by chemical resist or mechanical resist. As far as chemical resist is concerned (Fig 1b), the fabric is first printed with the print paste Natural dyes are recovering containing a chemical which their lost importance apart would resist the from giving safe providing printed portion while colouration property dyeing. Mechanical resist involves the tying of the fabric before dyeing either with thread (as in tie and dye) or other object (as in Shibori technique). The tied portion of the fabric resists the penetration of the dye, hence remains undyed. In case of discharge style of printing, the fabric is

DYEING & PRINTING

Fig 2 : Alizarine

first dyed and then printed with the paste containing a discharging agent (e.g. Rangolite C) which destroys the ground colour. Thus, the discharge printing signifies the process which can

other fabrics when applied in conjunction with a suitable mordant7,8. Marigold flower (Tageteserecta L), abundantly grown in India, is a rich source of carotenoids and lutein (Fig 3) which is a major constituent used as a yellow colour pigment for dyeing of fabrics9-11. Marigold is a herb of ancient medicinal repute. In traditional and homeopathic medicine, it has been used for skin complaints, wounds, burns etc, and recently on textiles its been proved to be giving antimicrobial property12,13. In India, marigold flowers are offered to the deities in the temples

Fig 3 : Lutein (Carotenoid)

produce white or coloured effect on a previously dyed ground4. The discharging agents (Fig 1c & 1d) may var y from oxidizing substances such as potassium chlorate, reducing agents such as sodium bi-sulphite or its stabilised compounds such as sodium sulphoxylateformaldehyde5. Discharge printing enables to produce printed materials with large areas of ground colours with good depth, levelness and penetration which would be difficult to obtain by a direct style of printing process. Intricate patterns with a clarity and sharpness on grounds of any depth is another important feature of this style. Though the production cost of discharge style is higher due to the extra processes involved, the aesthetically superior results give the product a higher value6. Natural dyes used in this study are Indian madder and marigold. Rubia cordifolia commonly known as Indian madder (manjistha in ayurveda), is cultivated extensively in regions of Asia, Africa and Europe. The plant' roots contain an organic compound called as Alizarin Fig 2 which is used as colorant for textiles since ancient times, reported to be imparting shades of red, scarlet, brown and mauve on cotton and

and also used for decorations (household and outdoor) at religious occasions. These flowers are just dumped as wastes after fulfilling their purpose. The extract obtained from these flowers can be used as dye. As natural dyes cannot be readily applied on textile materials, the mordant is required to be used with a suitable moradanting technique. Though chemical or metallic mordants used earlier produced bright shades, they can be harmful to the environment. Therefore, researchers have been finding the various natural resources, especially from natural wastes, to be used as mordant for natural dyeing14. As far as synthetic dyes are concerned, the mixing of two or more dyes to obtain a

desired shade is a very common practice. But the data on mixed or compound shades of natural dyes along with discharge printing is rare. Therefore in this study, effort was taken to develop compound shades of Indian madder and marigold on 100% cotton and cotton/viscose blend fabrics which were later subjected to discharge printing for value addition.

Materials and methods Materials 100% cotton woven fabric of 126 GSM and cotton/viscose blend fabric of 109 GSM were purchased from local market, Mumbai and used for the study. Indian madder in powdered form was sourced from Shital Ayurvedic, Mumbai. Marigold flowers were collected from household and temples as waste, dried in shade, grinded and used for extraction. Natural mordants such as amla, harda and pomegranate rind were sourced from Shital Ayurvedic, Mumbai and used for the study. Commercially available discharging agent Rangolite C and guar gum as thickening agent for print paste were sourced from local market, Mumbai.

Extraction of dye 5% stock solution of dye was prepared by boiling 5 gm of dye powder (Indian madder and dried marigold flowers in powdered form) in 100 ml of water for 1 hour by reflux method; extract was filtered, centrifuged, made to original volume and used for dyeing.

Fig 4 : Natural mordants used for the study

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 31

DYEING & PRINTING

Table 1 : Dye ratio for compound shades Dye

Dye ratio (in parts)

Indian Madder (30% shade) Marigold (30% shade)

100 P

70 P

50 P

30 P

0

0

30 P

50 P

70 P

100 P

Extraction of natural mordant (amla, harda and pomegranate rind)

centrifuged, made to original volume and used for mordanting (Fig 4).

Mordanting and dyeing of compound shades

5% stock solution of mordant was prepared by boiling 5 gm of mordant powder in 100 ml of water for 1 hour by reflux method; extract was filtered,

The mordanting of cotton and cotton/viscose blend fabrics was

carried by premordanting technique. This process was carried out in rota dyer (Rota Dyer machine, Rossari Biotech, Mumbai) keeping the material to liquor ratio of 1:30.The fabrics were introduced into the mordant solution at 20 % level (owf) at room temperature and slowly the temperature was raised to 95oC. The mordanting was continued at this temperature for 60 min. The mordanted samples were then dyed using a combination of two dyes which were Indian madder and marigold for the 30% shade calculated as per the dye ratio mentioned in Table 1. The mordanted fabrics were introduced in dyebath at room temperature and dyeing

Table 2 : K/S values and fastness data of 100% cotton dyed with compound shades of Indian madder and marigold using various mordants

Mordant used

Amla 20%

Harda 20%

PR 20%

Dyed ratio used for compound shades

Colour coordinates

Rubbing fastness

Indian madder

Marigold

K/S

L*

a*

b*

Discharge Wash (%) fastness

100 P

-

76.192

10.994

15.914

19.13%

70 P

30 P

76.798

4.132

20.133

50 P

50 P

77.609

2.229

30 P

70 P

77.712

-

100 P

100 P

-

70 P

30 P

50 P

50 P

30 P

70 P

-

100 P

100 P

-

70 P

30 P

50 P

50 P

30 P

70 P

-

100 P

0.5648 (0.4567)* 0.7752 (0.6564)* 0.9029 (0.8037)* 1.0132 (0.8419)* 1.1724 (0.9966)* 0.6542 (0.5682)* 2.5238 (1.7422)* 3.044 (2.3778)* 3.5432 (2.4639)* 4.6851 (3.8192)* 0.7335 (0.5875)* 1.8584 (1.501)* 2.5076 (1.8088)* 3.4331 (2.4753)* 4.2158 (3.3746)*

Wet

Dry

3

4

3

5

15.32%

3-4

4

3

6

21.685

10.98%

3

4

3

6

0.356

21.855

16.90%

3-4

4

3-4

6-7

79.192

-2.598

24.102

14.99%

4

4

3-4

6

76.108

12.884

18.168

13.14%

3

4

3

4

85.13

2.968

16.308

30.96%

3

4

4

5

86.596

0.946

16.147

21.88%

3

4

4

6

87.542

-0.352

16.238

30.46%

3

4

3-4

6

88.825

-2.3

16.414

18.48%

3-4

4

3-4

6

75.626

12.257

16.965

19.90%

3-4

4

4

5

82.344

4.441

16.159

19.23%

4

4

3

5

84.764

1.829

16.618

27.86%

4-5

4

3-4

5

86.028

0.33

16.707

27.89%

4

4

3-4

5

87.516

-2.297

16.461

19.95%

4-5

4

4

6

Note: PR = Pomegranate; P = parts;( )*K/S values of discharge printed area; L*: lightness (0 = black, 100 = white); a*: red-green coordinates (positive values = red, negative values = green); b*: yellow-blue coordinates (positive values = yellow, negative values = blue).

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 32

Light fastness

DYEING & PRINTING

Table 3 : K/S Values and fastness data of cotton/viscose dyed with compound shades of Indian madder and marigold using various mordants Mordant used

Amla 20%

Harda 20%

PR 20%

Dye ratio used for compound shades

Colour coordinates

Rubbing fastness

Indian Madder

Marigold

K/S

L*

a*

b*

Discharge Wash (%) fastness

100 P

-

76.04

8.178

11.622

19%

70 P

30 P

88.10

0.403

14.915

50 P

50 P

89.02

-0.76

30 P

70 P

90.28

-

100 P

100 P

-

70 P

30 P

50 P

50 P

30 P

70 P

-

100 P

100 P

-

70 P

30 P

50 P

50 P

30 P

70 P

-

100 P

0.5662 (0.4586)* 3.2601 (2.5516)* 3.9577 (3.2535)* 4.4714 (3.8831)* 5.5287 (4.5278)* 0.7623 (0.5781)* 5.2986 (4.1423)* 5.8138 (5.0255)* 8.5284 (7.1661)* 8.8486 (7.049)* 0.6463 (0.4409)* 2.8829 (1.9023)* 3.7075 (2.5294)* 4.4685 (3.031)* 6.692 (5.2542)*

Light fastness

Wet

Dry

3

4

3

6-7

21.73%

3-4

4

3

6

15.452

17.79%

3

4

3

6

-2.46

15.837

13.15%

3-4

4

3-4

6-7

91.46

-3.64

15.965

18.10%

4

4

3-4

6-7

77.32

9.448

17.752

24.16%

3

4

3

6

87.92

0.235

18.005

21.82%

3

4

4

6

89.05

-1.21

17.957

13.55%

3

4

4

6

90.32

-2.59

18.199

15.97%

3

4

3-4

6

90.82

-3.74

18.66

23.33%

3-4

4

3-4

6-7

78.28

8.503

15.131

31.78%

3-4

4

4

6

87.92

-0.51

17.711

34.10%

4

4

3

6

88.65

-0.85

17.974

31.77%

4-5

4

3-4

6

89.52

-1.34

17.815

32.16%

4

4

3-4

6-7

91.39

-3.26

17.96

21.48%

4-5

4

4

6-7

Note: PR = Pomegranate; P = parts; ( )*K/S values of discharge printed area; L*: lightness (0 = black, 100 = white); a*: red-green coordinates (positive values = red, negative values = green); b*: yellow-blue coordinates (positive values = yellow, negative values = blue).

was continued at 95oC for 60 min. After dyeing, the fabrics were squeezed and rinsed with cold water.

Discharge printing 10% stock thickening paste was prepared using guar gum (10 gm of guar gum + remaining water = 100 gm). Discharge printing paste was prepared as per the following recipe: Rangolite C - 15 % NaOH Pellets - 10% Stock Thickening (10%) - remaining The above mixture was continuously stirred under a high speed mechanical stirrer until the smooth paste was

obtained with desired viscosity. Then, the discharge printing was carried out on compound shades dyed fabrics using screen printing method. Samples were then dried at 80oC and then subjected to steaming at 102oC for 10 min in the laboratory steamer. After steaming was complete, samples were removed from the steamer and then washed thoroughly with water to remove the traces of the discharge paste.

Testing and analysis Evaluation of dyeing The dyed and printed samples were

evaluated for the depth of colour by reflectance method using 10o obser ver. The absorbance of the dyed samples was measured on Rayscan Spectrascan 5100+ equipped with reflectance accessories. The K/S values were determined using expression:

where, R is the reflectance at complete opacity; K is the Absorption coefficient; and S is the Scattering coefficient. Dyed fabrics were simultaneously evaluated in terms of CIELAB colour space (L*, a* and b*) values using the Rayscan Spectrascan Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 33

DYEING & PRINTING

Table 4 : Fastness data of discharge printing Mordant used

Amla 20%

Harda 20%

PR 20%

Dye ratio for compound shades Indian Madder

Marigold

100 P 70 P 50 P 30 P 100 P 70 P 50 P 30 P 100 P 70 P 50 P 30 P -

30 P 50 P 70 P 100 P 30 P 50 P 70 P 100 P 30 P 50 P 70 P 100 P

100% cotton Wash fastness

3 3-4 3 3-4 4 3 3 3 3 3-4 3-4 4 4-5 4 4-5

5100+. In general, the higher the K/S value, the higher is the depth of colour on the fabric. L* corresponds to the brightness (100-white, 0-black), a* corresponds to the red-green coordinate (positive-red, negative-green); and b* corresponds to the yellow-blue coordinate (positive-yellow, negativeblue). As a whole, a combination of these entire coordinates enables one to understand the tonal variations. Dischargability was determined by taking K/S of dyed ground and K/S of printed ground with the use of following equation:

Wash fastness Evaluation of colour fastness to washing was carried out using ISO 105 II method. The test samples were subjected to 5 gm/l of soap solution for 45 min at 50oC temperature using liquor to material ratio of 50:1 in launder-o-meter. After rinsing and drying, samples were evaluated for the Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 34

Rubbing fastness

Cotton/viscose Light fastness

Dry

Wet

4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4

3 3 3 3-4 3-4 3 4 4 3-4 3-4 4 3 3-4 3-4 4

5 6 6 6-7 6 4 5 6 6 6 5 5 5 5 6

change in shade using respective standard rating scales (Rating 1 - 5; where 1 - poor, 2 - fair, 3 - good, 4 very good and 5 - excellent).

Light fastness Test method AS 2001.4.21.2006 was used for determination of colour fastness to light15. An artificial light source (mercury vapour, tungsten filament, internally phosphor-coated lamp) was used for assessment of light fastness. Assessment was done using blue wool scale (Ratings 1-8; where 1 poor, 2 - fair, 3 - moderate, 4 - good, 5

- better, 6 - ver y good, 7 - best and 8 excellent).

Rubbing fastness Evaluation of colour fastness to rubbing (dry and wet) was carried out by AATCC 8:2005 Crock-o-meter method, (Crock-o-meter consisting of a circular rubbing surface finger measuring 16

Wash fastness

3 3 3 3 3-4 3 3 3 3 3 3 4 4 4 4

Rubbing fastness Dry

Wet

4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4

3 3 3 3-4 3-4 3 4 4 3-4 3-4 4 3 3-4 3-4 4

Light fastness

6-7 6-7 6-7 6-7 6-7 6 6 6 6 6-7 6 6 6 6-7 6-7

mm in diameter exerting a downward force of 9N when moving back and forth along a straight line track of 100 mm on the specimen). Standard rubbing cloth is rubbed against the dyed test specimen with 10 strokes (back and forth) in 10 sec16.

Results and discussion Compound shades of marigold and Indian madder on cotton and cotton/viscose fabrics Initial attempt was made to develop compound shades of Indian madder and marigold by mixing the extracts of both dyes in proportion after pre-mordanting the fabric with various natural mordants namely, amla, harda and pomegranate rind. The data of K/S values of compound shades on cotton is presented in Table 2. The results clearly indicate that there was increase in K/S values as the concentration of marigold increased at the cost of Indian madder. It is to be noted that a* values were shifting from positive to negative; as a result, one of the shades changed from redder to greener. This is mainly

DYEING & PRINTING

because the yellow component in the marigold is proportionately increased in the dye bath. As 100% of Indian madder produces the red shade and 100% of marigold gives the yellow shade, when these two dyes are mixed in certain proportions to obtain compound effect, a beautiful range of reddish orange to yellowish orange shades were obtained. It is also observed from the data that harda gave the best results in terms of K/S values followed by pomegranate rind and amla as far as compound effect was concerned. The data of K/S values of compound shades of Indian madder and marigold on cotton/viscose blend is presented in Table 3. The results clearly indicate that there was an increase in K/S values as the concentration of marigold increased at the cost of Indian madder, as observed in case of cotton too. Similarly, harda gave the best results as far as performance of mordant was concerned on cotton/viscose fabric. The trend of a* and b* values observed on cotton/viscose blend were also similar to that in case of cotton.

Effect of discharge printing In order to study the effect of dischargability, samples were printed with process mentioned in Discharge Printing section. The data of K/S values of discharge printed area are also summarised in the Tables 2 & 3. It is obser ved that the discharge percentage of self as well as compound shades of Indian madder and marigold varied from shade to shade. However, in general, it could be said that when pomegranate rind was used, the dischargibility extent was higher as compared to when amla and harda mordants were used. The dye mordant complex and their stability to alkaline reducing conditions govern the dischargibility. Thus, it indicates the effective destruction of the chromophore under alkaline reducing conditions. Both the dyes possess the property of dischargability in self as well as mixed shades forms when dyed with natural mordants such as amla, harda and pomegranate rind.

Fastness properties The fastness properties of the compound shades were estimated and presented in the same Tables 2 & 3. For discharge printing, the fastness data is presented in Table 4. The wash fastness ratings for dyed and printed samples were found to be in the range of good to excellent. The rubbing fastness was found to be in the range of good to very good; and the light fastness ratings obtained ranged between ver y good to excellent. Fastness ratings for printed samples were not found to be affected after discharge printing.

Conclusion Compound shades of Indian madder and marigold using various mordants were developed successfully on 100% cotton and cotton/viscose fabrics. As natural dyes are characterised to produce soothing shades, the results of this study were encouraging as a wide range of shade gamut (red, reddish orange to yellowish orange and yellow) was achieved. Moreover, discharge printing was effectively carried out on compound shades with the help of alkaline reducing discharging agent and it definitely adds the beauty to the shades. Thus, it can be concluded that Indian madder and marigold dyes have discharging property, though to a limited extent, which indicates its potential for such style of printing on self as well as compound shades of natural grounds. This study in itself is unique because of the use of natural mordants while completely replacing the harmful chemical mordants.

References 1 Knecht E, The principles and practice of textile printing, pp 3 (1924) 2 Clarke W, An introduction to textile printing, pp 29 (2013) 3 Kafka F J, Batik, tie dyeing, stenciling, silk screen, block printing: The hand decoration of fabrics, Courier Corporation (1973) 4 Teli M D, Valia S P & P radhan C, Discharge style printing of natural dyes on cotton, Asian Dyer, Dec-Jan, pp 30-34 (2014-15)

5 P rayag R S, Technology of Textile Printing, Published by Mrs L R Prayag, Dharwad, Karnatak, 3rd edition (2000) 6 http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2011/05/ discharge-style-printing-process_ 7450. html 7 Siva R, Status of natural dyes and dyeyielding plants in India, Current ScienceBangalore-, 92(7), 916 (2007) 8 Devi Priya M, & Siril E A, Traditional and modern use of indian madder (Rubiacordifolia L) : an overview Int J Pharm, Sci, Rev Res, 25(1), pp 154-164 (2014) 9 Teli M D, Valia S P & Kolambakar D, Coloration Properties of Indigo Dyed Wool Top Dyed with Marigold, Journal of the Textile Association, Sept-Oct pp 175177 (2014) 1 0 Asmamani S, Development of ecofriendly anti-microbial finish on cotton fabric using Calendula Officinalis (marigold). Man-made Textiles in India, XXXVIII (10): pp 373-376 (2010) 1 1 Gulrajani M L, Present Status of Natural Dyes. Indian Journal of Fibre &Textile Research, (26): 191-201 (2001) 1 2 Ali S S, Kasoju N, Luthra A, Singh A, Sharanabasava H, Sahu A, & Bora U . Indian medicinal herbs as sources of antioxidants. Food Research International, 41(1), pp 1-15 (2008) 1 3 Asmamani, S Development of ecofriendly anti-microbial finish on cotton fabric using Calendula Officinalis (marigold), Man-made Textiles in India, XXXVIII (10): pp 373-376 (2010) 1 4 Teli M D, Sheikh J, & Shastrakar P, Exploratory investigation of Chitosan as mordant for eco-friendly antibacterial printing of Cotton with Natural dyes. Journal of Textiles (2013) 1 5 Teli M D, Annaldewar B N & Thorat S L, Sun protective dyeing and finishing of cotton fabric with marigold. Asian Dyer, Oct-Nov, pp 41-44 (2016) 1 6 http://www.texanlab.com/documents/ downloads/4.pdf

Prof (Dr) M D Teli is a Professor of Textile Chemistry, Member of Board of Management (ICT), Former Dean & Head of Textile Department at the ICT Mumbai. E-mail: [email protected]

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 35

WET PROCESSING

Preparation and processing of Seaweed fabrics Subrata Das, Sanam S and Savitha S

S

eaweed is a renewable, cellulosic fibre taken from the ocean. When blended with other fibres, it can be used to manufacture woven fabrics. Traditionally used in Chinese medicine seaweed to protect the skin, seaweed boasts of antiinflammator y qualities and is said harness deep sea minerals - even in fabric form. Since the early 2000s, advanced technologies in seaweed production have made this fibre more usable in the production of apparel - seen mostly in knits, underwear and sportswear. Sterols are the major nutritional components found in seaweed, they are the most important chemical constituent of microalgae. Mainly, sterols are present in plant, animal and fungi, with the most famous animal sterol known as ‘cholesterol’. Cholesterol is vital to cellular function and affects the fluidity of animal cell membrane; it also acts as secondary messenger in developmental signalling. Various species of seaweeds have different sterols, like green seaweeds contain 28 ucocholesterol, cholesterol, 24 methylene cholesterol and β-sitosterol; while brown seaweeds contain fucosterol, cholesterol and brassicasterol. Red seaweeds contain sterols like desmosterol, cholesterol, sitosterol, fucosterol and chalinasterol. Different seaweeds have different carotenoid Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 36

pigments e.g. green seaweeds species have β-carotene, luetin, violaxanthin, neoxanthine and zeaxanthine; while red seaweeds contain mainly α and β carotene, luetin and zeaxanthin. In brown seaweeds, βcarotene, violanxanthine and fucoxanthine are present. Several specific changes in the basic structure of caratenoids are found in natural algal caratenoids, including variation in the number of carbon atom and also the presence of unusual groups such as allene groups and lactones found in peridinin and fucoxanthin. Agar is the sulphated polysaccharide mainly extracted from phaeophyceae; it is also extracted from red seaweeds such as gelidiumsp Seaweed fibre was converted and gracilariasp. The use of this into yarn by spinning, compound is mainly woven into fabric and wet in commercial and processed scientific areas because of its gelling, emulsification and viscosity property. Agar has industrial applications which include paper coating, adhesives, textile printing dyeing, impressions, casting etc. Alginate is used in the textile industry for sizing cotton yarn and also used as a gelling

WET PROCESSING

agent. It is available in both forms that is acid and salt; the acid form of alginate is a linear polyuronic acid and is called asalginic acid; whereas the salt form is an important cell wall component of brown seaweeds, consisting of 40% - 47% dry weight of algal biomass. Seaweeds show antibiotic activity. The interesting list of compounds present in macro algae are halogenated compound such as halogenated alkanes, haloforms, alkenes, alcohol, aldehyde, hydroquinone and ketone. Compounds such as sterols, heterocyclic and phenolic compounds show antibiotic property. Many of these compounds show antiseptics as well as cleansing property, but their antibiotic activity in vivo is often only achieved at toxic concentration. Though seaweed has been investigated for various applications, studies on the preparation and processing of seaweed fibre are limited for textile applications. Thus, it was thought worthwhile to investigate the preparation and processing of seaweed fibre in order to explore the possibility of its application in different areas of textiles and fashion industry.

Materials and methods Seaweed fibre was procured from Breitscheidstr, Germany and the photomicrograph of the fibre is shown in Fig 1. The seaweed fibre was soaked in distilled water containing 2 gm of Na2CO3 for 8 hr at room temperature. Gel formation in the fibre was noticed, which indicates the presence of alginate in seaweed fibre. The processing of seaweed fibre into yarn was carried out and the resultant yarn count of this conversion is 30s. The process flowchar t for the fibre to yarn conversion is given below: Process Flow Chart for Spinning Opening of fibres Carding Drawing

Roving Ring Frame Winding

Preparation of fabric sample The seaweed yarn was woven into fabric in Tifac Core laboratory at Kumaraguru College of Technology, Coimbatore, India by using Rapier weaving machine. Woven fabric details are shown in Table 1. The flowchart for construction of seaweed fabric is given below: Flow Chart for Weaving Yarn from spinning department Warping Drawing-in Weaving Grey Fabric

Wet processing Bleaching The bleaching of seaweed fabric sample was carried out to improve the whiteness index and absorbency. The recipe for bleaching is mentioned below: z NaOH = 4% z Na2CO3 = 1.5% z Na2SiO3 = 0.6 gm z H2O2 = 0.6 ml z Time = 30 min z Temperature = 90oC z M:L ratio = 1:40 z pH = 8 - 10 The fabric sample was weighed and the chemicals required for the process are calculated on the weight of the fabric. Bleaching bath was set up and required chemicals added to the bath. The temperature was raised to 90oC. Once the required temperature was reached, the process was carried out for 1 hr. During the process, the temperature and pH are maintained and continuous agitation was done for uniform bleaching. After the completion

of this process, the bath was drained, followed by cold and hot wash.

Dyeing The recipe for dyeing is given below: Remazol dye (Jakazol Orange 2R) = 2% z NaCl = 50 gm/l z Na2CO3 = 20 gm/l z Temperature = 50oC z Time = 1 hr The bath was set up with the required M:L of 1:40. Then, the required amount of dissolved dyestuff was added to the dye bath. The sample was wetted out and squeezed, then entered into the dye bath. After 10 min, the required quantity of salt was added. After 20 min exhaustion, the soda ash was added for fixation and worked for 30 min. Then, the material was removed and the bath was dried. After treatment was carried out to remove the unfixed (hydrolysed) dyes and to improve the colour fastness. Dyed fabric sample was rinsed thoroughly with cold water and followed by hot water. Soaping was carried out with 2 gm/l non-ionic soap solution and 2 gm/l soda ash. Finally, the material was dried in hot air oven at 100oC for 15 min. z

Discharge printing on reactive grounds Vat colours require reduction for fixation under solubilised conditions, whereas reducing agents destroy

Fig 1 : Seaweed fibre

reactive colours. By printing vat discharge on reactive grounds, the ground colour was destroyed and, on Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 37

WET PROCESSING

subsequent oxidation, after seaming the original vat colour was formed in printed area. The selected dischargeable reactive colours can be applied by exhaust method as below: Print (flat screen printing) Dry (temperature not exceeding 60oC -80oC) Cooling (upto 25oC) Immediately steam for 45 min at 102oC - 103oC

Wash sequence: Cold wash Hot wash (60oC -80oC) Hot soap (1-2 gm/l - non-ionic soap at 80oC -90oC) Hot wash (60oC -80oC) Cold wash Dry

Testing and evaluation Seaweed yarn strength was determined by following IS:1671-1973 test method. The machine worked in Constant Rate of Extension (CRE). ASTM D 2255-96 Test Method was used to grade seaweed spun yarn for appearance. The standard has 4 master photographs: A, B, C and D in each spacing, and the specimen was compared with the different ASTM Cotton Yarn Appearance Standards. Yarn Appearance Board Winder was used to compare the appearance of irregularities against standard rating photographs which carry out visual determination of unevenness along the length of a yarn. Evenness rating of the yarn was done by comparing the board against the master photographs of the same spacing and assigning to the specimen the grade designated for the photograph for which it was equal to or better than, without being equal to the next higher grade. Seaweed fabric weight was Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 38

Table 1 : Fabric specifications Parameters

Result

Type of weave EPI PPI Count

Plain weave 60 64 Warp Weft 118

GSM

determined following the ASTM Test Method D3776-96. Bursting strength of seaweed fabric was evaluated by using Diaphragm Bursting Strength testing method (ASTM D3786 / D3786M2013). Tearing strength of seaweed fabric was measured in Elmendorf tearing strength testing machine by following ASTM D1424-2013 test standard. Pilling resistance of seaweed fabric was evaluated by using Pilling Box Method (IS 12945-1:2000). Grade was assigned against standard photographic standards. Abrasion resistance of seaweed fabric was done by Martindale Abrasion Tester and ASTM D 4966-2012 Test Method was used. Stiffness of seaweed fabric was measured by Cantilever Test Method and IS-6490-1971 Test Method was followed. Determination of recovery from creasing of seaweed fabric was done by measuring the angle of recovery by using crease recovery tester and IS-4681-1981 Test Method was used for the study. Air permeability testing apparatus was used to test the air permeability of seaweed fabric by following ASTM D737-96 test standard. Tensile strength of seaweed fabric was measured on Instron tensile strength tester. ASTMD 5034-95 was followed for this test. A spray tester was used to measure the resistance of seaweed fabric to wetting by water which determined water repellence property by ISO 4920 Test Method. Spray test rating was assigned to the sample by

30s 30s

following a rating chart for spray test. The bleached seaweed samples were tested in a reflectance spectrophotometer (Gretag Macbeth) with D65 light. The CIE Whiteness Index value (CIE WI) was determined for the bleached fabric using AATCC Test method 110-1995. Whiteness Index was measured by using the CIE Whiteness index using D65 for 10o observer. The calculation for CIE Whiteness is: WCIE = Y+800 (xo- x) + 1700 (yo - y) where, Y is the tri-stimulus value for the sample; x and y the colour coordinates for the sample as calculated using the illuminant/observer condition and xo and yo are the colour coordinates of the achromatic point. Absorbency of the bleached seaweed fabric was assessed as per AATCC Test Method 79-1986. Rubbing fastness test method used was ISO 105 X12. Lengthwise and width wise samples were tested for dry and wet rubbing in a crock-o-meter. Samples were rated by using gray scale for staining on 1 to 5 grade scale. Colour fastness to washing was determined by using ISO 105 C06 test method. Test was performed in Launder-o-meter where different parameters like temperature during wash, time of wash etc were being controlled. Rating of the samples was done by using gray scales of change in colour and staining. Colour fastness to perspiration test procedure used was ISO 105 E04. Colour fastness to

Table 2 : Yarn characteristics Name of yarn sample

Lea strength (lb)

Appearance Test (Grade)

Seaweed yarn

91.29

A

WET PROCESSING

seaweed fabric are shown in Table 3. It is observed that the seaweed fabric has abrasion resistance of 3000 and pilling resistance of 4 which indicates that this fabric can be used as a material for apparel industry. Tearing and tensile strength values in warp and weft direction are also indicative of the potential use of seaweed fabric in tops and bottoms. The tensile strength of wet seaweed fabric is greater than that of dry seaweed fabric. This is due the formation of hydrogen bonds between water molecules in hydroxyl groups in the cellulosic rings of the seaweed yarn in wet stage. This increases crystalline region in seaweed yarn, which subsequently increases the wet strength of the fabric. With similar nature of behaviour in cotton fabric, it can be corroborated that seaweed fabric is similar in properties with that of cotton. Bursting strength, bending length, flexural rigidity, bending modulus and crease recovery properties have also closer resemblance with that of cotton fabric. Air permeability and surface wetting properties indicate that seaweed fabric is breathable and it can be used as a dress material in fashion industry. Bleached seaweed fabric exhibited whiteness index value as 70 which is moderate. Absorbency of 5 sec indicates that bleached seaweed fabric becomes highly absorbent after removal of impurities in preparatory processes as similar to that of cotton and it is suitable for subsequent application of dyes during dyeing and different print recipes in printing.

Table 3 : Physical properties of seaweed fabric Parameter Abrasion resistance (no. of abrasion cycles) Pilling resistance (grade) Tearing strength (lbf) Warp Weft Tensile strength (lbs) Warp (dry) Weft (dry) Warp (wet) Weft (wet) Bursting strength (lb/sq inch) Bending length (cm) Warp Weft Flexural rigidity (mg/cm) Warp Weft Bending modulus (kg/cm 2) Crease recovery angle (degrees) Warp Weft Warp + weft Air permeability (cc/sec/cm 2) Surface wetting (grade) Whiteness Index Absorbency (sec) Tensile strength (lbs) Warp (dry) Weft (dry) Warp (wet) Weft (wet)

perspiration was done in both alkaline and acidic condition in Perspirometer. Change in colour and staining were assessed by using gray scales. AATCC Test Method 16, option 3 was used for determining the colour fastness to light. Water cooled type machine and xenon arc light source was used for this testing. A standard (blue wool reference) was also exposed with the sample and the colour fastness was assessed by comparison of the colour change of the exposed portion to the unexposed portion of the test specimen using blue references.

Characterisation Characterisation of seaweed yarn was done for lea strength and appearance grade and depicted in Table 2. It is obser ved from Table 2 that seaweed yarn has lea strength of 91.29

Result 3000 4 11.62 9.64 26.06 22.08 32.64 27.54 183.33 1.165 0.97 18.657 10.7695 6.539x10 -6 59.33 53.36 112.69 86.53 50 70 3 26.06 22.08 32.64 27.54

lbs which is at par with cotton lea strength for similar count range. Appearance grade of seaweed yarn has been determined based on factors like yarn evenness, fuzziness and neppiness. In comparison with ASTM yarn appearance photographs, the highest appearance grade A is obtained. This corroborates the fact that seaweed yarn is highly recommended for its use as a dress material in fashion industry to produce high end fashion apparel. The physical properties of the

Colour fastness The colour fastness to washing, perspiration, rubbing and light of the dyed and printed sample has been evaluated and the results are depicted in Table 4.

Table 4 : Colour fastness properties Colour fastness to Washing

Perspiration (acid and alkali)

Rubbing (lengthwise and widthwise)

MF

CC

MF

CC

Wet

Dry

3-4

4

3-4

4

3-4

4

Light

4

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 39

WET PROCESSING

The seaweed fabric shows moderate rating i.e. 3-4 to good rating for colour fastness properties towards washing, perspiration, rubbing and light. This indicates that seaweed fabric can be wet processed easily, and different aesthetic properties can be improved by dyeing and printing.

Conclusion The seaweed fibre procured from Germany was converted into 30s count yarn by using ring spinning system. The seaweed spun yarn was characterised for lea strength and yarn appearance. Good lea strength and excellent yarn appearance grade was obtained. z Characterisation of different physical properties such as tearing strength, tensile strength, crease recovery, abrasion resistance, pilling resistance, bursting strength, air permeability, stiffness, surface wetting, whiteness index and absorbency reveal that seaweed fabric is quite similar in properties to that of cotton and can be suitably used in apparel industry for varieties of product development for high end fashion demand. z The tensile strength of wet seaweed fabric is greater than that of dr y seaweed fabric. z Moderate to good colour fastness to rubbing, washing, perspiration and light of dyed and printed fabrics was found in z

dyed and printed seaweed fabrics.

References

13

1 Hussain Lone Irfan, E Kowsalya and L Jeyanthi Rebecca, Der Pharm Lettre, 8 pp 68-71 (2016) 2 Pal Archana, Chandra Kamthania Mohit, Kumar Ajay, Open Access Lib J , 104 pp 3245-3255 (2007) 3 Gill I and Valivety R, Trends in Biotech, 15 pp 401-409 (1997) 4 Sanchez-Machado D I, Lopez-Hernandez J, Paseiro-Losada P, and Lopez-Cervantes J, Biomedical Chromatography, 18 pp 183190 (2004) 5 Polivka T, and Sundström V, Chem Rev, 104 pp 2021-2071 (2004) 6 Andrade L R, Salgado L T, Farina M Pereira M S, Mourão P A and Amado Filho G M, J of Str Biology, 145 pp 216-225 (2004) 7 Hemmingson J A, Furneaux R H, and Murray-Brown V H, Carbohydrate Res, 287, pp 101-115 (1996) 8 Potin P, Bouarab K, Kupper F, and Kloareg B, Current Opinion in Microbiology, 2 pp 276-283 (1999) 9 Kolender A A, Matulewicz M C, and Cerezo A S, Carbohydrate Res, 273 pp 179-185 (1995) 1 0 Lincoln R A, Strupinski K and Walker J M, ‘Bioactive Compounds from Algae, Life’, Chemistry Reports (1991) 1 1 Stefanov K, Konaklieva M, Brechany E Y, and Christie W W, Phytochemistry, 27, pp 3495-3497 (1988) 1 2 Church F C, Meade J B, Treanor R E, and

14

15 16 17 18

19

20

21 22

Whinna H C, J Biological Chem, 264, pp 3618-3623 (1989) Trento F, Cattaneo F, Pescador R, Porta R, and Ferro L, Thrombosis Res, 102, pp 457-465 (2001) Rose M, Lewis J, Langford N, Baxter M, Origgi S, and Barber M, Food and Chem Toxicology, 45, pp 1263 (2007) Shin H, Hwang H J, Kang K J, Lee B H, Arch Pharm Res, 29, pp 165 (2006) Burges Watson D J Appl, Phycol 20 pp 505 (2008) Anon, Intl J of Innov, Res in Sc, Eng and Tech, 3 (2014) Safi S, Morshed M, Hosseini Ravandi S A, and Ghiaci M, J Appl Polymer Sc, 104 pp 3245-3255 (2007) Zhou F-L, Gong R-H and Porat I, Surface and Coatings Tech, 204 pp 621-628 (2009) Avella M, Pace E D, Immirzi B, Impallomeni G, Malinconico M, and Santagata G, Carbohydrate Polym, 69 pp 503-511 (2007) A ATCC Technical Manual, Vol 75, Research Triangle Park: AATCC (2000) A ATCC Technical Manual, Vol 66, Research Triangle Park : AATCC (1991).

Dr Subrata Das is a Professor (Fashion Technology), Bannari Amman Institute of Technology, Sathyamangalam, Erode Dist, Tamil Nadu, India. [email protected]

GTTES 2019 to be held in Mumbai Prominent and key textile machinery manufactures from across the globe such as ITEMA Weaving, Dornier, Staubli, Weavetech, Lifebond, Inditec International, Prashant Gamatex, LUWA, LCC, Yamuna, Colorjet, DCC, ATE, Elgi Equipments, SIMTA, Inspiron Jay Instruments, Texfab, Eastern Engg, Menzel/ Bianco etc are participating in next edition of GTTES to be held from 1st to 3rd Feb 2019 in Mumbai, India. It is of utmost important for textile machinery manufacturers that their presence be ensured in the biggest buyer-seller interaction in India for Textile Machineries & Accessories at GTTES 2019. India today is one of the world's largest producers of textiles and thus the biggest market for textile machinery as well. Other than that, India is also one of the few countries in world which has production at every level of textile manufacturing viz. fibre manufacturing, spinning, weaving, knitting, processing and garmenting. The most significant change in the Indian textiles

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 40

industry has been the advent of manmade fibres (MMF). Except spinning, the majority of the textile and apparel machinery demand of India is being catered by imports. The potential size of Indian textile and apparel industry is expected to reach US$ 223 billion by 2021. The size of the textile machinery demand and the market opportunity is US$ 75 billion in India. GTTES 2019 offers sourcing solution to this market demand in India by focusing on weaving, knitting, printing, garmenting, embroidery and technical textiles. GTTES 2019 is supported by Make in India, Ministry of Commerce & Industry, Ministry of Textiles, Dept of Heavy Industry, Government of Maharashtra, Textile Department, The National Small Industries Corporation Ltd (NSIC) etc. This prestigious event attracts participation from 32 countries and has live display of machinery in weaving, processing, and garmenting from the 13 chapters across the textile segment.

STENTERS

Cost savings for continuous dyeing with Monforts E-control / T-CA & Eco-Line finishing Hans Gerhard Wroblowski, Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH

M

onforts Textilmaschinen GmbH has been active in the textile machiner y sector since 1884 and has continuously developed, together with well-known industrial partners including Dystar, Achroma, Huntsman and Pleva, new technologies, par ticularly for

Dyeing line

continuous dyeing and finishing of woven and knit fabrics. In this era of globalisation, it is more important than ever before to optimise work processes in the textile industry. Today, attention

must be paid to quality and production costs without neglecting environmental aspects. The expected high standard of quality required by the textile market has reached a completely new dimension. This applies to export and domestic markets alike.

The ECO Line concept for finishing and dyeing of woven and especially knit goods using Eco Applicator, within the wet-in-wet technology, is a modern technique which meets these requirements. Helping the textile finishing industry to achieve maximum results with the minimum use of resources is absolutely fundamental to the Monforts Eco-Line concept.

Eco line - ECO Finishing

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 42

STENTERS

Graphical results of T-CA and E-Control

This technique offers sustainable cost savings over a wide range of the production work. It also further improves the quality of the fabric at the same time. To achieve these goals, ‘state of the art' techniques of production and technologies need to be exploited to secure market shares in today's world, plus being able to withstand the pressure of price cutting within international competition. Monforts R&D offers solutions for new products, new and optimised technologies, opening and creating new perspectives in modern fashion as well as highlighting the needs and demands for sustainable production within the industry.

Dyeing The Eco-Line concept together with the further developed and refined

process E-Control and T-CA Dyeing techniques enables varied colour solutions from light to real dark colouration for knit and woven fabrics.

Eco Applicator for various finishing and dyeing applications These techniques and processes offer unique effects, improving colour depth and fastness, and assures reproduction of shades (tone in tone) Typical features of the textile industry's environment are greater challenges, but also a lot of

opportunities. Machinery manufacturers have to comply with customers' increasing ecological awareness and have to meet the objectives related to sustainability and environmental protections. The ECO Line technology offers a real potential for reducing processing time and costs, and the initial investment outlay of this innovative system can be recouped very quickly. Mr Hans Gerhard Wroblowski is associated with Monforts Textilm a s c h i n e n GmbH, D-41017, Mönchengladbach, Germany www.monforts.de

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 43

DYEING & PROCESSING

Sustainability aspects and carbon footprint in denim manufacturing - II T Karthik and R Murugan

Carbon footprint in denim manufacturing Levi Strauss & Co has classified LCA of denim in seven different independent systems as given below: z Cotton production z Fabric production z Garment manufacturing z Transportation and distribution z Consumer use z Recycling, which then goes back to step (2); or z Waste stream in a landfill. The carbon footprint in lifecycle of denim with respect to the percentage is shown in Fig 2. It is evident that the consumer care phase (use phase) governs highest impact on the climate change (driven by high use of non-renewable energy) followed by fabric manufacturing and transportation.

Fig 2 : Climate change impact in lifecycle of denim jeans by percentage

Cotton cultivation and harvesting Cultivation of natural fibres involves several factors like field preparation, planting operations like irrigation, weed control, pesticide, and the type of harvesting which needs to be considered for reduction of carbon footprint. Cotton cultivation and harvesting process is indispensable for denim manufacturing, though it is resource intensive and involves political and social aspects. Cotton culti- vation and harvesting is usually known for its unsustainable nature, owing to utilisation of pesticides, fertilisers and water. Cotton production can be considered for both a contributor to and a ‘victim' of climate change and contributes around 0.3% to 1% of total global Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 44

Fig 3 : GHG emissions from cotton farming

GHG emissions. Current cotton The sustainable denim growing methods manufacturing, in near future and practices are will be always a process, not considered involving all single steps of the sustainable as they damage water, soil complete denim manufacturing and allied value chain ecosystems, as well as contribute to high social costs and are a threat

DYEING & PROCESSING

consumption of electricity to regional economies depending on iv) Transportation to spinning industry cotton farming and associated textile v) Conversion of fibre to yarn industries. consists of mainly electricity and To manufacture a pair of jeans, water for humidification approximately 1.5 pounds of cotton is vi) Packaging. essential which, in turn, requires about The GHG emission distribution 1,500 gallons of water. In order to study conducted by CITS (Clothing cultivate and harvest the cotton, numIndustry Training Authority) in erous stages of transport are necescotton ring spinning industry is sary, and based on the number of steps shown in Fig 4. From the figure, it each supplier can do in one facility, the is observed that the ring spinning quantity of carbon emissions will process and ring frame machine change. By taking into consideration the contributes to a larger extent of use of insecticides in cultivation, the GHG emission and electricity cotton growers use 25% of chemicals consumption, followed by the applied worldwide, including highly toxic winding process and machines. organophosphates. In total, the energy Incorporating the energy efficient consumption will be around 60 MJ/kg. processes and materials in these Fig 3 shows the GHG emissions from processing stages could offer cotton farming. The study reveals that potential carbon reduction the cotton farming stage has 2.1076 opportunity. The auxiliary production CO2 eq/kg cotton yarn without allocation facilities used in production process and 0.8430 CO2 eq/kg cotton yarn on such as air compressor, lighting, mass basis and 1.8336 CO2 eq/kg cotton yarn on economy basis. From the figure, it is obser ved that the major contribution is from the use of synthetic fertilisers. It is well known that as much as 60-70% of seed is available from seed cotton during ginning. Manpower required to process 1 kg of cotton is calculated to be 0.002 man h/ kg. Electrical energy required for Fig 4 : GHG emission distribution in spinning by the processing of 1 kg of yarn is processes 0.5863 MJ/kg. Based on electric fan, humidification systems and electrical energy consumed for ginning, automatic waste extraction, plays a GHG emissions are calculated to be vital role in energy consumption and 0.1310 CO2 eq/kg cotton yarn. hence potential opportunity to reduce carbon emissions in this area. Cotton spinning The value chain for cotton yarn production involves the following processes: i) The cotton cultivation and harvesting phase which includes fuels or energy intensive material inputs such as fertilisers, herbicides, seeds, diesel fuel and electricity for irrigation, machinery and labour used for agriculture. ii) The transportation for moving of agricultural product from farm to the ginning site iii) Ginning process which comprises

Dyeing and sizing The rope dyeing method is most commonly used in denim manufacturing due to the better uniformity of dyeing achieved in this method as compared to slasher dyeing. The most commonly used dye for denim dyeing are the Indigo dyes. These are commonly known as vat dyes which are insoluble in water and have less affinity towards cellulose fibres. Hence, the indigo dyes are converted into leuco form which forms a coating on the outer layer of yarn. The

indigo is then made insoluble through oxidation by exposing the yarn to the air. During sizing process, size addon of 8% - 12% is applied over the warp thread to improve the strength and frictional

Fig 5 : GHG emissions in cotton dyeing by processes

resistance characteristic of warp yarn. The average pair of jeans has around 3/ 4th of a pound of chemicals in it. Though natural indigo dyes could be produced, most of the indigo dyes are synthetically produced over the globe. The GHG emission distribution in cotton dyeing and sizing process-by-process during denim process is shown in Fig 5. From the figure, it is obser ved that the dyeing and sizing process itself consumes around 95% of the total energy. Analysing the energy source on each process and behaviour of machines during the process could provide the possibility of reduction of cabon footprint in these processes. Any kind of a dye is basically a polluting process. Textile processing units needs a nearby water source for breaking down dyes, washing, and treating the fabrics. Synthetic indigo dyes are normally sulphur based, which have serious detrimental effects to both, the people that work with them as well to natural environments where they are discharged. In addition to sulphur based dyes, sodium hydroxide, hydrosulfate, and formaldehyde are chemicals used in the manufacturing processes of synthetic dyes. Even if the colour is removed from wastewater, this does not necessarily mean that the water is clean: sulphur dye residues tend to remain in wastewater even after treatment. Use of natural indigo dyes Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 45

DYEING & PROCESSING

could minimise the carbon footprint level.

Denim fabric weaving and finishing The GHG emission distribution in denim fabric weaving and finishing by process and emission source during denim process is shown in Fig 6. From the figure, it can be noticed that

finishing processes. The GHG emission distribution in garment manufacturing by process and emission source is shown in Fig 7. From the figure, it is observed that the final ironing of garments before packing contributes about 58% of GHG emissions as compared to other processes. The main garment manufacturing processes such as cutting and spreading account for about 17% of total GHG emissions. Ironing, which uses electric power as well as steam to make the fabric without any creases or wrinkles, consumes huge amount of energy. The low production rate of cutting process leads to higher GHG emission.

Denim washing

Fig 6 : GHG emissions in fabric weaving and finishing processes

weaving process alone contributes to about 50% of GHG emissions in the entire process. Fabric finishing processes such as preshrinking, singeing, desizing, washing and heatsetting contributes around 40% of GHG emissions. Hence, weaving and finishing processes have to be thoroughly analysed including auxiliary production facilities to reduce the carbon footprint.

Garment manufacturing Garment manufacturing is otherwise known as make-up process, where two dimensional denim fabrics are converted into three dimensional garments. It involves pattern making, cutting, assembling, sewing and

Fig 7 : GHG emissions in denim garment manufacturing process

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 46

In order to make the jeans show distinctive visual effects, a unique washing process will be done after the garment or fabric stage, such as standard wash, stone wash, enzyme wash, chemical wash, bleach wash and

Fig 8 : GHG emissions in denim washing process

destroy wash. The jean washing effect design is an important step of jeans development which attracts the consumers. The washed products will be sent back to garment manufacturing factor y for final inspection and packaging steps. This is the end of the assessment of jean carbon footprint in the manufacturing sector. The GHG emission distribution in garment washing by process is shown in Fig 8. From the figure, it is observed that only four simple processes are involved in denim washing, out of which main washing process contributes more than 60% of the total GHG emissions. The second one is drying and followed by drying process. These two processes are majority of the whole GHG

emissions with a total share of about 80%, which should be considered as the possibility for carbon reduction opportunities.

Carbon footprint of denim in consumer use phase The highest energy use and GHG emissions in lifecycle of denim come from the consumer use phase of the jeans. Though the overall water consumption in a jean lifecycle is accounted in the cotton growing stage at around 68%, the consumer care comes in a second at 23%. Based on these figures, it would seem that the consumer use phase could have the greatest impact on the environment than any other phase. The impact of change in climate due to consumer washing and drying of jeans varies significantly based on method of washing, washing frequency, and washing equipment. Fig 9 shows the influence of frequency of washing of jeans, type of washing machine and washing condition on the carbon footprint of jeans during consumer use phase. From the figure, it is evident that washing the jeans with energy efficient washing machines accounts for the about 30% lower carbon footprint compared to conventional washing machine, and further 30% reduction in carbon footprint was noticed by washing the jeans in cold water compared to warm water. Similarly, washing the jeans bi-weekly reduces the carbon footprint to around 50% as compared to washing it weekly and a further reduction of 50% by washing it monthly. Washing the denim garment after wearing it ten times instead of washing it after it is worn two times reduces energy use, climate change impact and water intake by upto 80%.

Strategies to reduce carbon footprint in denim manufacturing A global paradigm shift toward cleaner, greener processes and products is in progress. A systematic approach with a continuous impro-

DYEING & PROCESSING

equipments for manufacturing, and use of optimised process parameters in the manufacturing stages.

References

Fig 9 : Climate change impact of jeans from one year of consumer care

vement process can minimise the carbon footprint of textiles. Textile industries have realised the benefits of increasing the energy efficiency processes and thus reducing the cost of fuel and electricity. The following activities should be considered to reduce total life cycle GHG emissions: z Product design for environment: The decision on most significant lifecycle GHG emissions has to be done in the designing stage of the product, so consideration of GHG and other environmental impacts should be incorporated in design decisions. z Care requirements: Product care requirements and labels should be considered and consumers have to be educated so that garments are washed no more than necessary. z Enhancing product durability: More hard-wearing products minimise the GHG emissions substantially by spreading the ‘sunk costs’ of manufacturing emissions over a longer product life. z Review raw materials and engage with suppliers: Consider greater use of plant-based fibres where garment specifications permit, engaging with suppliers to reduce emissions, and shifting toward organic fibres to reduce GHG types. z Transpor t: If air freight is used at any point in the supply chain, consider options to reduce it. Once the magnitude of a carbon footprint is known for a product, a strategy can be developed to reduce it through development of new technologies, improved process and product management, changed Green Public or Private Procurement (GPP), consumption strategies that carbon capture etc. The strategies that can be used for

reduction of carbon footprint are: Adopting 3R concept z Development of standards and labels, and z Educating the consumers. z

Conclusion As a rule, in future, innovative as well as ecofriendly processes and products should be attractive and economical if the calculations related to the environmental protection initiatives and treatment of wastewater are carried out realistically. Most significant for the ecological assessment and comparison of denim manufacturing concept is its features, as the whole denim manufacturing process is compared. Therefore, only a total process comparison can offer a real comparison. The total sustainable denim production approach was highlighted by DyStar in its Econfidence denim concept. The Econfidence concept for the production of sustainable denim recommended by DyStar are: electrochemical dyeing on slasher and rope dyeing ranges; use of minimal application processes in the denim manufacturing value chain; electrochemical bleaching (ECB) in garment dyeing/finishing machines (laundry machines); combination processes and recycling concepts in denim laundries and garment finishing mills; eco-efficiency evaluation of denim processes etc. The sustainable denim manufacturing in the near future will be always a process, involving all single steps of the complete denim manufacturing value chain. The optimal solution comes from balanced use of recycled materials, advanced and energy efficient machinery and

1 Gardetti M A, Torres A L, Sustainability in Fashion and Textiles: Values, Design, Production and Consumption, Greenleaf Publishing, UK (2013) 2 Karthik T, Gopalakrishnan D, Impact of textiles in environmental issues and environmental legislation, Part - I, Text Rev; 7(3): pp 14-21 (2012) 3 Prakash C, Maruthavanan T and Parvathi C, Environmental impacts of textile industries. Indian Text J; 23:22-26 (2009) 4 Karthik T, Gopalakrishnan D, Impact of textiles on environmental issues, Part - I, Asian Dyer; 9:52-58 (2012) 5 Karthik T, Gopalakrishnan D, Impact of textiles on environmental issues, Part - II. Asian Dyer, 9: 45-51 (2013) 6 Karthik T, Gopalakrishnan D, Impact of textiles on environmental issues, Part III. Asian Dyer; 9:40-43 (2013) 7 Karthik T, Gopalakrishnan D Impact of textiles on environmental issues, Part - IV, Asian Dyer; 9:43-46 (2013) 8 Subramanian Senthil Kannan Muthu, Yi Li, Jun Yan Hu, and Li Ze, Carbon Footprint Reduction in the Textile Process Chain: Recycling of Textile Materials, Institute of Textiles & Clothing, Fibers Polym, 13: 1065-1070 (2012) 9 Harshita Chaudhar y, Assessment of carbon footprint in textile sector - A case study based on garment manufacturing unit, Pak Text J; pp 44-45 (2011) 1 0 Muthu S S, Li Y, Hu J Y, Carbon footprint reduction in the textile process chain: Recycling of textile materials Fibre Polym, 13:1065-1070 (2012) 1 1 Hasanbeigi A Energy-efficiency improvement opportunities for the textile industr y, LBNL-3970E, Ernest Orlando Lawrence Berkeley National Laborator y, Berkeley, CA, (2010) 1 2 Bevilacqua M, Ciarapica F E, Giacchetta G and Marchetti B, A carbon footprint analysis in the textile supply chain, Int J Susta Eng; 4:24-36 (2011) 1 3 Roshan Paul, Denim Manufacture, Finishing and Applications, Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge, UK (2015) 1 4 Iqbal S, Kolhatkar A W, Denim fabrics: ring vs rotor spun yarns, Indian Text J, 120(1): pp 28-32 (2009)

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 47

DYEING & PROCESSING

1 5 Cotton Incorporated, Denim Fabric Manufacturing. Technical Bulletin, North Carolina, USA (2004) 1 6 Megan McGill, Carbon Footprint Analysis of Textile Reuse and Recycling. https:// workspace.imperial.ac.uk/environmental policy/publicMcGill09_textiles_ Exec%20 Summary.pdf. [accessed 21.08.16] (2009) 1 7 Bahareh Zamani, Carbon footprint and energy use of textile recycling techniques http://publications.lib.chalmers.se/record s/fulltext/146872.pdf.[accessed 23.08.16] (2011) 1 8 Levi Strauss & Co, Life Cycle of a Jean. http://www.levistrauss.com/sustainability/product/life-cycle-jean.[accessed 22.09.16] (2010) 1 9 Scott Camp, Gordon Clark, Laura Duane and Aaron Haight, Life Cycle Analysis and Sustainability Report - Levi Strauss & CoJeans, http://www.uvm.edu/~shali/Levi. pdf. [accessed 13.08.16] 2 0 Ajootian, Angela. Saving Natural Color-How An Organic Cotton Breeder Changed the World, Organic Consumers Asso

21

22

23

24

ciation,http://www.organicconsumers .org/clothes/color090804.cfm. [accessed 11.08.16] (2010) Clothing Industr y Training Authority (CIAT), Apparel Supply Chain - Carbon Assessment about Jeans Producing. http:/ /www.cita.org.hk/wp-content/uploads/ 2013/10/Fty_rpt_Eng_20130912.pdf. [accessed 11.09.16] (2013) Benjamin Fitzgerald, How Textile Manufacturers Are Making Denim More Sustainable, http://www.lesouk.co/articles/ material-inspiration/how-textilemanufacturers-are-making-denim-moresustainable. [accessed 3.09.16] American Chemical Society, Sustainable denim manufacturing process creates 'green' jeans. http://phys.org/news/201206-sustainable-denim-green-jeans.html. [accessed 29.08.16] (2012) Wolfgang Schrott, Sustainable Denim Eco-Labeling and Environmentally Friendly Denim Production. http://www.denimsandjeans.com/environment/sustainable-denim-ways-to-environmentally-

friendly-denim-production/3563.2011. [accessed 29.09.16] (2011) 2 5 Tyler Michael Cole, Sustainability is the new premium jeans, https://baumwoll boerse.de/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/ SI-Cole-Sustainability.pdf.2016. [acces sed 02.08.16] (2016) 2 6 DuFault, Amy. Sustainable Denim Round Up. EcoSalon - Conscious Culture and Fashion. http://ecosalon.com/sustainabledenim-round-up-17brands-we-love. 2010. [accessed 11.08.16] (2010) 2 7 Levi Strauss & Co, A Product Life Cycle Approach to Sustainability. http://www. levistrauss.com/sites/default/files/librarydocument/2010/4/Product_Lifecyle_ Assessment.pdf.2010.[accessed 22.09.16] (2010). T Karthik is an Assistant Professor (Senior Grade) at Department of Textile Technology, PSG College of Technology, Peelamedu, Coimbatore - 641 004, Tamil Nadu, India. E-mail : [email protected]

Meet us at

ITMA 2019 Barcelona 20-26 June 2019 Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 48

SPECIAL REPORT

Heimtextil 2018

A

round 70,000 visitors from 135 countries experienced design innovations by 2,975 international exhibitors at Heimtextil from 9 to 12 January 2018. Urban design in the context of architecture and the hotel industry became the top topic of the international trade fair for home and contract textiles.‘With growth on both the visitor and exhibitor side, Heimtextil has convinced across the board and underpinned its unique position as a world-leading trade fair’, says Detlef Braun, CEO of Messe Frankfurt. Around 70,000 visitors, including representatives from the retail and wholesale trade, interior decorators, design, architecture and interior design, the hotel industry and industry, benefited from the fair’s unique range of products and inspiration. The quality of the visitors was outstanding. Trade representatives included top buyers from major mail order companies, furniture stores

and retail chains, including BAUR, Bruno Bader, Cotonis, Erwin Müller, Industrias Spring, Objektund Hotelausstattung Felbermayr, Hornbach, Otto, QVC, Unimasa, Witt Weiden XXXLutz and York Furnishing Textiles FZE. Heimtextil also offers ideal conditions for the medium and small retail trade segment and interior decorators. They benefit from tailor-made offers and exclusive benefits programmes such as Heimtextil Insider and Bed n Excellence.

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 49

SPECIAL REPORT

For the eighth time in a row, the trade fair increased the number of participating companies; these now total 2,975 international exhibitors. In addition to global market leaders and industr y leaders, Heimtextil also provided an international platform for more than 50 young designers and star tups with its newcomer programme ‘New & Next’. One of the focal points of the trade fair was contract furnishing and the associated focus on the target group of architects and property planners. With the ‘Theme Park’ trend area, Heimtextil gave an outlook on the design and furnishing trends of the future. Under the title ‘The Future is Urban’, international design experts visualised the megatrend of urbanisation. Based on the statement that more than half of the world's population already lives in major cities, the area not only showcased the colour and material trends of the coming

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 50

season, but above all real future prospects in the field of textile interior design. Approximately 1,500 suppliers of finished products from the home textiles sector showed off their best side with an incomparable range of topics and areas of application, whether relating to sustainability, healthy sleep or international design. In the Green Village in Hall 8, exhibitors and visitors to Heimtextil were able to find out more about environmentally and socially responsible textiles and get in touch with seal

awarders and certifiers. At the same time, the Green Village was the starting point for the Green Tours, i.e. tours of selected exhibitors for sustainable textiles. The varied lecture programme in the Green Village offered insights into current topics and developments in the green segment. Based on discussions with exhibitors and visitor surveys, Messe Frankfurt has developed a new Heimtextil concept for 2019. ‘From the perspective of buyers in particular, we are repositioning Heimtextil 2019 and grouping themes and product groups according to target groups. In this way, synergies can be better recognised and exploited’, says Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies at Messe Frankfurt. In addition, the demand for stand space on the exhibitor side has grown sharply in some product groups in recent years. The next Heimtextil, International Trade Fair for Home and Contract Textiles, will be held in Frankfurt am Main from 8 to 11 Januar y 2019. z

YARN DYEING

Combined dyeing of different polyester sewing threads Harshal I Patil, V S Shivankar and P P Raichurkar

T

extile is one most important sectors in world and provides most fundamental necessities to the people. Textile wet processing is one of the most necessary processes for making the textile product useable. In wet processing, several processes are carried out, which improve the handle and appearance of fabric. In today's competitive market, manufacturers shows more interest in use of manmade fibre rather than the use of natural ones, as development in manufacturing technology of manmade fibre makes manmade fibre more viable quality wise in comparison to natural fibre. The dyeing of manmade fibre is difficult compared to natural, as polyester fibre is dyed at higher temperature at 135oC in exhaust The textile wet processing dyeing method. In industry concentrates sewing threads, the polyester spun yarn on conservation of energy is used in large and water quantity; it is dyed in yarn dyeing process. The requirement of garment manufacturer is less in quantity with same shade of different thread counts. So, dyeing of such a small quantity material is affecting the production rate and

machine utilisation. This is the main problem of sewing thread dyeings. Proper utilisation of

s

machine will help to increase production rate. The dyeing of different threads count with same shade in one vessel helps to increase the production rate with higher machine utilisation.

Materials and methods The material used here is polyester spun yarns, generally used as sewing threads. Three different yarn counts (2/19, 2/30, 2/47) are used for the study. The material is dyed in the form of yarn packages by yarn dyeing machine. The weight of above yarn count packages is 1.4 kg, 1.3 kg, 1.4 kg. The density of package also plays an importance role in dyeing. If any variation Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 53

YARN DYEING

all chemical and unfixed dyes from fabric. The recipe of dyes and chemical is shown in Table 3.

in package density occurs, it directly affects the colour shade due to improper dyeing. The package density for yarn dyeing process is in the range of 0.4 to 0.45 gm/cm3.

Dyeing

Dyes and chemicals

The machine used for dyeing is package dyeing machine made by Fongs. The capacity of machine is 1 to 2 kg and used for yarn packages

The dye used for experiment is disperse dye, manufactured by

Table 1 : Dyes used Dye

% (owf)

Coralene Yellow Brown 2RFL CBENE Red F2BL CBENE Navy VS2G Total

2/19

Weight (gm) 2/30 2/47

Combined

0.93823

13.135

12.196

13.135

38.476

0.53750 1.80428 3.28001

7.525 25.259 45.919

6.987 23.455 42.638

7.525 25.259 45.919

22.037 73.975 134.476

Table 2 : Chemicals used Chemical

Concentration

Green acid DFT 40 Levelgel DLP Caustic soda Sodium hydrosulphite Trinowax WS

0.75 gm/l 0.8% 0.8 % 0.75 gm/l 1.5 gm/l 1 gm/l

Colourtex Industries, Ahmedabad, India, and Colorband Dyestuff. The pH of the 10% dye solution is 6 to 8. The dye recipe for individual and combined dyeing is given in Table 1. The dyeing shade for the experiment is dark i.e. 3.28%. The chemical for dyeing is given in Table 2. The role of the chemicals is to assist the dyeing process. The green acid is used as acid buffer for maintaining pH of dyeing in the range of 4 to 4.5. DFT 40 and Levelgel DLP is a levelling agent which help to improve the level of dyes on the fabric; due to this, the variation in shade is avoided. Sodium hydroxide and sodium hydrosulphite is used for reduction clearing, process. In reduction clearing the dye present on the sur face of fibre is removed; it helps to improve the fastness properties by removing of unfixed dyes. Trinowax WS is used as soaping agent for final soaping which removes Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 54

dyed separately, and 3 to 5 kg for combined dyeing. The packages are loaded into the machine and water is filled at 70oC. Add the chemical in preparation tank and check that pH is in the range of 4 to 4.5. Prepare colour solution by adding dye powder in 60oC water and mix it homogeneously. Then, add this solution in dossing tank, circulate it and finally send it to main dyeing vessel. Then, run the machine at 135oC with temperature increase rate of 3oC/min for 30 min. After this, drain liquor and take fresh

water for reduction clearing process. Add chemical for reduction clearing in dossing tank and send to main vessel. Then run the machine at 90oC with temperature increase rate of 1.5oC/min for 20 min. After reduction clearing, drain liquor and take fresh water for soaping, add soap solution in dossing tank and send to the main vessel. Then run the machine at 90oC with temperature increase rate of 1.5oC/min for 10 min. After soaping, drain the liquor and rinse the material. Then, remove the packages from vessel and the water from package by hydro extractor machine, and finally dr y the packages at RF dryer. The sample is then tested for colour difference ΔE and washing fastness.

Testing For testing of any dyed material, the two main properties are colour value and fastness of material. In this project, we tested washing fastness. The colour value or colour difference of dyed material is checked by spectrophotometer in various light sources as shown in Table 4. Wash fastness of dyed yarn is checked by standard method of ISO 105 CO3. Specimen of testing is dyed yarn lea with white adjacent yarn lea. The chemicals for testing are 5 gm/l soap and 2 gm/l soda ash at 60oC for 30 min.

Table 3 : Process parameters for dyeing Parameter

Dyeing

Reduction clearing

Soaping

Temperature Temperature rate Time pH

135oC 3 oC/min 30 min 4.5

90oC 1.5 oC/min 20 min 10.5

90oC 1.5 oC/min 10 min 5

Table 4 : Δ E and wash fastness rating of sample Count

2/19 2/30 2/47

Method

Separate Combined Separate Combined Separate Combined

D65 (10 o)

Light source F11 U3500 (10o) (10 o)

A (10 o)

0.89 0.95 0.32 0.59 0.85 1.00

0.95 1.08 0.32 0.66 0.83 1.05

0.88 0.98 0.36 0.64 0.98 1.03

0.94 1.08 0.32 0.66 0.84 1.05

Average ΔE

Wash fastness rating

0.91 1.02 0.33 0.63 0.87 1.03

4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5

YARN DYEING

separate

separate

combined

Fig 1 : Average ΔE of yarn dyed in separate and combined vessel

Results and discussion Table 4 shows the colour difference (ΔE) and wash fastness properties of sample dyed by separate and combing dyeing methods. Fig 1 shows the average ΔE of dyed sample. The yarn counts 2/19 and 2/47 have very less difference in ΔE of separate and combined dyed sample; whereas, in case of yarn count 2/30, the difference is more as compared to the other count. The acceptable limit of colour difference (ΔE) is 1 to 1.5. The ΔE value of above dyed samples is within the acceptable limit, so there is no problem to dye different yarn counts with same shade in one vessel. This combined dyeing method is used for sewing threads dyeing industry, where the different yarn count is dyed with same shade in small quantity. So, due to this method, the time required for the process is reduced by efficient machine utilisation. The cost of production is reduced by reduction in energy consumption and reduction in labour requirement. Due to proper machine utilisation, wastage of chemical and water is reduced; it helps to reduce the load of effluent treatment of wastewater. Fig 2 shows the wash fastness of dyed sample; there is no change in fastness properties of the sample. All the samples show the same colour fastness properties.

Conclusion From the above results, we conclude that the yarn with different linear

combined

Fig 2 : Wash fastness of yarn sample dyed in separate and combined vessel

density dyed in separate and combined dyeing methods does not have much colour difference. The yarn counts dyed in separate vessel have small colour difference as compared to combined dyed sample. The combined dyed sample has more colour difference as compared to separate dyed sample, but it is within the acceptable limit. So, there is no problem for combined method of dyeing of different yarn count packages with the same shade in one vessel. Due to this method, the rate of production is increased by more machine utilisation, and the cost of production also reduces. There is no change in wash fastness of dyed yarn sample. This method is mostly applicable in sewing threads dyeing industry.

References 1 P R Kulkarni, S P Kallulkar, Improvement In Dyeing Process Parameters - A Case Study Of Solapur Based Textile SME, Avishkar - Solapur University Research Journal, Vol 3 (2014) 2 Tsui, Tak Ming William Method and apparatus for flow control in a package dyeing machine European Patent Specification, Patentno EP 2000573 B1, January 1st (2012) 3 Kuldip A Rade, V A Pharande and D R Saini Energy optimization in Dyeing Process by Using Controlled parameters International Journal of Innovative Research in Science, Engineering and Technology Vol 3, Issue 6, ISSN: 23198753, June (2014) 4 ChoudhariAsim Kumar Roy, Textile preparation and dyeing, Oxford and IBH Publishing, New Delhi, (2006)

5 Shenai V A, Chemistry of dyes and principles of dyeing, Sevak Publications, Mumbai (2006) 6 Karmakar S R, Chemical technology in pretreatment process of textile, Elsevier Science Publisher (1999) 7 Trotman E R, Dyeing and chemical technology of textile fibres, Charles Griffin & Company Ltd, 6th Edition, England, (1984) 8 NITRA, Norms for Textile Industr y, Chemical Processing, ATIRA, BTRA, NITRA, SITRA, 2nd Edition, Ghaziabad, India, (2000) 9 C R Meena, Abhinav Nathany, R V Adivarekar, N Sekar, One-bath Dyeing Process for Polyester/Cotton Blend using Physical Mixtures of Disperse/ Reactive Dyes, European International Journal of Science and Technology, Vol 2 (2), March pp 6-16 (2013) 1 0 Vijay S Shivankar, Amarjeet Daberao, Navnath Karche, Effect of Various Parameters on Dyeing of Polyester Cotton Blend, International Journal on Textile Engineering and Processes, pp 9-13, Vol 1, Issue 4, October (2015) 1 1 Harshal I Patil, Dr Vishnu A Dorugade, V S Shivankar Single and double bath dyeing of polyester/cotton blended fabric using disperse and reactive dye International Journal on Textile Engineering and Processes ISSN 23953578 Vol 2, Issue July (2016). The authors are associated with Mukesh Patel School of Technology Management & Engineering, SVKM’s NMIMS, Shirpur Campus, Shirpur, Dist Dhule, Maharashtra, India E-mail : [email protected]

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 55

NANOTECHNOLOGY & FINISHING

Synthesis of nano ZnO particles and multifunctional finishing on cotton fabrics P Senthilkumar

A

unique aspect of nanotechnology is the vastly increased ratio of surface area to volume present in many nanoscale materials which opens new possibilities in surface-based science, such as catalysis. A number of physical phenomena become noticeably pronounced as the size of the system decreases. Nanotechnology, though still very early in its infancy, is already proving to be a useful tool in improving the performance of textiles. With increased performance comes added value and additional revenue. This paper reveals the synthesis methods of nanoparticles and their applications to textiles. Nanocoating the surface of textiles, clothing, and textiles for footwear is one approach to the production of highly active surfaces to have UVblocking, antimicrobial and self-cleaning properties. A fabric treated with nano-silver could provide effective protection against bacteria, while that treated with nano-sized titanium dioxide and zinc oxide were more efficient at absorbing and scattering UV radiation than the conventional size, and were thus better able to block UV. Besides these, nanoparticles can also provide stain resistance, water repellency, abrasion resistance etc. Nanoparticle application in textile field is widely regarded as one of the most important sources of new technology and its development in textile finishing area will impact upon a broad range of industries and end users. However, there are also ethical, legal, policy and social issues that need to be considered if the potential benefits of nanotechnology are to be realised in a safe and effective way.

Synthesis of nanoparticles There are two ways for synthesis of nanophase Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 56

materials. They are: z Top down approach z Bottom up approach There are six widely used methods to produce nanomaterials. They are: plasma arcing; chemical vapour deposition; electro deposition; sol-gel synthesis; ball milling and use of natural nanoparticles. In the first two methods, molecules and atoms are separated by vaporisation and then allowed to deposit in a carefully controlled and orderly manner to form nanoparticle. The third method, electro deposition, involves a similar process, since individual species are deposited from solution. The fourth process, sol-gel synthesis, involves some prior ordering before deposition. In ball milling, known macro crystalline structures are broken down into nano crystalline structures, but the original integrity of the material is retained. Being in the nanometre range, the particles are transparent, so they do not blur colour or alter brightness of textile substrates. Nanoparticles can be applied on textiles by two-stage process. Initially, there is the manufacture of new, stable nano-material, which must, in the first instance, be protected against properties defined by Use of nanotechnology in the the size of the textile industry has increased particles. The second rapidly due to its unique and step sees the valuable properties creation of the foils, emulsions and dispersions that can be applied to the final textile product, in the most favourable case, by means of conventional finishing processes. Large sur face area to volume ratio makes it easy for them to attach to the textile and increase the durability of the functions imparted by the particles. In addition, the coating of nanoparticles

NANOTECHNOLOGY & FINISHING

does not affect the breathability and hand feel of the textile. The most common functions are wrinkle resistance, stain, soil and water repellency, and anti static, anti bacterial and anti ultraviolet protection. There are several potential advantages of sol-gel technique for functional finishing of textiles, such as ordinar y processing conditions, fast throughput and no damage to the substrate materials. Nanoparticles such as metal oxides and ceramics are also used in textile finishing, altering surface properties and imparting textile functions.

antibacterial effect on all specimens against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria. It is considered that part of the oxygen in the air or water is turned into active oxygen by means of catalysis with the metallic ion, thereby dissolving the organic substance to create a sterilising effect with the use of nanosized particles; the number of particles per unit area is increased and thus antibacterial effects can be maximised. In addition, nano-silver can be applied to a range of other healthcare products such as dressings for burns, scald, skin donor and recipient sites.

Self-cleaning textiles

UV protection

The German researcher Wilhelm Barthlott of the Bonn Institute of Botany discovered, in 1990, that the lotus plant, admired for the resplendence of its flowers and leaves, owed this property of self-cleaning to the high density of minute surface protrusions. These protrusions catch deposits of soil, preventing them from sticking. Nano-sized silver, titanium oxide and zinc oxide are used for imparting selfcleaning and anti-bacterial properties. Metallic ions and metallic compounds display a certain degree of sterilising effect. With the use of nano-sized particles, the number of particles per unit area is enormously increased. This is the best method to overcome the ecological problems which can occur due to traditional finishing. Negation of textile fabrics due to stain and dirt problems will be overcome with the help of self-cleaning effect.

The most important function per formed by a garment is to protect the wearer from the weather. However, it is also to protect the wearer from harmful rays of the sun. The UV-blocking property of a fabric is enhanced when a dye, pigment, delustrant or ultraviolet absorber finish is present that absorbs ultraviolet radiation and blocks its transmission through a fabric to the skin. Metal oxides like ZnO as UV-blocker are more stable when compared to organic UV-blocking agents. Hence, nano ZnO will really enhance the UV-blocking property due to their increase surface area and intense absorption in the UV region. The use of nanometre titanium dioxide or other nanometre materials as the catalyst was investigated for many years to enhance the catalytic effect on the improvement of some properties of the treated materials.

Anti-microbial effect Nanotechnology is concerned with materials whose structures exhibit significantly novel and improved physical, chemical, and biological properties, phenomena, and functionality due to their nanoscaled size. For imparting anti-bacterial properties, nano-sized silver, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are used. Silver is useful as an antiseptic and disinfectant. Silver is skin friendly and does not cause skin irritation. Nanosized silver par ticles in colloidal solution had excellent

Odour control finish Odour control is a hot topic in the apparel and hosiery arenas. Odours are formed as a result of bacterial growth, and can be controlled by applying an antimicrobial finish, removing the odour molecules as they are formed or covering up the odour with a fragrance. Cyclodextrins can be incorporated into a fabric finish to remove odour. Cyclodextrins have a unique molecular structure, composed of a hydrophobic cavity with a hydrophilic exterior. The odour molecules, being hydrophobic, become trapped in the cavities of the

cyclodextrins and are removed during laundering. A Taiwanesse nanotech firm Greenshield has created an underwear that fights odour. This is achieved through nanotechnology. In the present work, ZnO particles were synthesised at nano level and applied on cotton woven fabrics with a view to study their anti-microbial activity and UV blocking property.

Experimental Synthesis The zinc oxide (ZnO) nanoparticles were prepared by wet chemical method using zinc nitrate and sodium hydroxide as precursors and soluble starch as stabilising agent. First, using soluble starch, a solution of 0.5% concentration was prepared. Then, 14.874 gm (0.1 mol) of zinc nitrate was added to the above solution. A magnetic stirrer was used to dissolve the zinc nitrate. After it dissolved completely, 4 gm (0.2 mol) of sodium hydroxide solution was added in drops and the solution was kept under constant stirring for 2 hr. The solution was then allowed to settle overnight and the supernatant solution was discarded carefully. The remaining solution was centrifuged at 10,000 xg for 10 min and the supernatant was discarded. Thus obtained nanoparticles were washed three times using distilled water. Washing was carried out to remove the byproducts and the excessive starch bound to the nanoparticles. After washing, the nanoparticles were dried at 80oC overnight. During drying, complete conversion of Zn (OH)2 into ZnO takes place.

Characterisation of nano ZnO particles The x-ray diffraction (XRD) pattern of the synthesised nano-ZnO particles was obtained using Shimadzu-Model XRD 6000 X-ray Diffractometer. The nanoparticle size was determined using the Scherrer equation, Dh,k,l = kλ/ B cos θ, where k is a constant (0.89 for ZnO), λ the wavelength of Cu Kα radiation (1.5419 Å) and B is the ‘full width half maximum' (FWHM) of the XRD peaks. Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 57

NANOTECHNOLOGY & FINISHING

Table 1 Effect of nano-ZnO treatment on mechanical properties of cotton fabrics Breaking strength Average breaking load (lb)

Fabric sample

Air permeability

Strain (%)

[m/(k.Pa.s)]

Untreated 0.5% nano-ZnO coated 1.0% nano-ZnO coated

Warp

Weft

Warp

Weft

90.5 ± 1.83 82.0 ± 1.83 75.0 ± 3.10

62.5 ± 2.19 61.0 ± 1.20 60.0 ± 1.55

38.54 ± 0.56 33.13 ± 1.50 28.78 ± 2.25

16.56 ± 1.84 12.50 ± 1.37 8.44 ± 1.84

Coating of cotton fabrics with nano ZnO particles 100% cotton woven fabric (plain weave; 150 gm/m2; EPI = 72; PPI = 64) was used for the study. The cotton fabrics were immersed in solution containing nano-ZnO (0.5% and 1.0%) and acr ylic binder for 5 min. The material to liquor ratio was 1:20. The fabrics were then passed through a padding mangle (double dip) running at 2.5 cm/sec with a pressure of 3.5 kgf/ cm2 to remove the excess solution. A wet pickup of 65% was maintained throughout the process. After padding, the fabrics were air-dried followed by curing at 140oC. Finally, the fabrics were rinsed with sodium laur yl sulphate solution (2 g/l) to remove the unbound par ticles from the fabric sur face after which they were washed and air-dried.

Characterisation of nanoZnO coated fabrics The nano-ZnO coated fabrics were characterised by testing for some of its basic physico-mechanical parameters. The samples were conditioned at 65 ± 2% relative humidity and 27 ± 2oC before testing. All the tests were carried out for untreated and treated (0.5% and 1.0%

nano-ZnO coated) fabrics. The breaking strength was carried out as directed in ASTM D5035 in Fabric Tensile Strength Tester by Strip Method. Air permeability was tested in Automatic Air Permeability tester KES-F8 AP1 designed by Kato Tech Co Ltd, Japan. To test the antibacterial activity of cotton fabrics both before and after nano-ZnO treatment, assessment was carried out with Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC 6538), a gram-positive bacterium and Klebsiella pneumoniae (ATCC 4532), a gram-negative bacterium. The qualitative assessment was carried out as directed in AATCC Test Method 1472004 and the quantitative assessment was carried out as directed in AATCC Test Method 100-2004. The percentage reduction of bacteria by the cotton fabrics is reported as R, where R = 100(B - A)/B. Here, A is the number of bacteria recovered from the inoculated treated test specimen incubate over 24 hr while B is the number of bacteria recovered from the inoculated treated test specimen immediately after inoculation (at ‘0' contact time). For UV blocking test, the ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) values were calculated according to AATCC Test Method 183-2004. The test was done in UV-Vis 2100 Shimadzu Corporation,

Table 2 : UV transmission (%) of untreated and nano-ZnO treated fabrics Nanometre range

200 250 300 350 400

nm nm nm nm nm

Untreated fabric

0.5% nano-ZnO treated

1.0% nano-ZnO treated

10.32 8.30 9.19 11.56 6.77

8.71 5.12 5.32 8.08 4.48

6.55 4.67 4.18 5.17 3.93

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 58

46.10 ± 0.12 48.12 ± 0.27 50.02 ± 0.25

Japan, UV-visible spectrophotometer. The percentage blockings of UV-A (315400 nm) and UV-B (280-315 nm) were calculated from the transmittance data. The UPF was calculated from the following equation: ...(1) where Eλ is the relative erythermal spectral effectiveness, Sλ is the solar spectral irradiance, Tλ is the average spectral transmission of the specimen, and Δλ is the measured wavelength interval (nm).

Results and discussion By using the Debye Scherrer equation, the particle size was obtained as 92 nm. The tensile strength test conducted on the fabrics showed that there is a significant reduction in the tensile strength in the warp direction of nano-ZnO coated fabrics while no significant change was noticed in weft direction. The results are shown in Table 1. The strain % was significantly less in both warp and weft directions of the coated fabrics when compared with the untreated fabrics. The air permeability of a fabric is a measure of how well it allows the passage of air through it. The nano-ZnO coating was found to have improved the air permeability of the fabrics due to the uniform and very thin uniform distribution of nano-ZnO. The antibacterial tests showed that, in the control fabric, the growth of both S aureus and K pneumoniae was found on the fabric as well as surrounding the fabric sample. In both the nano-ZnO coated fabrics, no bacterial growth was found either on

NANOTECHNOLOGY & FINISHING

or the fabric periphery. The novelty here is, in spite of the presence of soluble starch and acrylic binder, ZnO showed excellent antibacterial property. The percentage blockings of UV-A (315-400 nm) and UV-B (280-315 nm) regions are 11.56 and 9.19 for the untreated fabric; 8.08 and 5.32 for 0.5% nano-ZnO coated fabric; and 5.17 and 4.18 for 1.0% nano-ZnO coated fabric (Table 2). The nano-ZnO coated cotton fabrics showed efficient blocking of UV radiation in both the regions. The UPF factor for the control cotton fabric is calculated to be 1.74; while it is 3.05 and 3.98 for 0.5% nano-ZnO treated and 1.0% nano-ZnO treated fabrics, respectively. In spite of the low concentration of ZnO, the enhanced efficiency of UV protection can be attributed to the uniform spread of nano-ZnO and enhanced absorption of ZnO nano particles in the UV-A and UV-B regions.

Conclusion Nano-ZnO particles synthesised by the wet chemical method were characterised by x-ray diffraction analysis. The peaks showed the presence of ZnO and average of the particle size was estimated to be 92 nm. Cotton fabrics were then coated with the nano-ZnO particles by pad-drycure method to get a uniform coating on the fabric surface. The nano-ZnO coated cotton fabrics showed a significant reduction in breaking strength and elongation. It was also found that the nano-ZnO impregnated cotton fabrics had higher air permeability and breathability than the untreated fabrics. When tested for antibacterial activity, the nano-ZnO coated fabrics showed excellent antibacterial activity against two representative bacteria, Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumonia. This was shown by the percentage bacteria reduction in the treated fabrics. The nano-ZnO treated fabrics also showed better UV protection with a higher ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) than the untreated fabric. A pH test of the treated fabrics showed that the nanoZnO treated fabrics were alkaline in

nature. Based on this work, it is concluded that nano-ZnO treated cotton fabrics can be used for antimicrobial and UV protection applications.

References 1 Stewart Wallace, Nanotechnology in Textiles. Retrieved Feb 20, 2009, from http://www.nanotextiles.netNanotechnology_in _Textiles. pdf (2004) 2 AATCC Test Method 100, Assessment of Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials pp 147-149 (2004) 3 AATCC Test Method 147, Antibacterial Activity Assessment of Textile Materials: Parallel Streak Method, pp 260-261 (2004) 4 AATCC Test Method 183, Transmittance or Blocking of Er ythemally Weighted Ultraviolet Radiation through Fabrics pp 349-351 (2000) 5 ASTM D 5035 (7.02), Standard Test Method for Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Strip Method) 6 Kanokwan Saengkiettiyut, Pranee Rattanawaleedirojn and Supin Sangsuk, A study on Antimicrobial Efficacy of Nano Silver containing Textile, Journal of Natural Science - Special Issue on Nanotechnology, 7(1), pp 33-36 (2008) 7 Patel B H and Chattopadhyay D P, Nanoparticles & their uses in textiles. Retrieved Feb 20, 2009, from http:/www.india ntextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetail s.asp?id=693 (2007) 8 Seshadri Ramkumar and Mohammad Munin Hussain Nano: the next wave in nonwoven textiles: the latest development in nanotechnology applied to textiles. Retrieved Jan 16, 2009 from www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_hb 6618/ is_4_37/ai_n29262200 (2006) 9 Yadav A, Virendra Prasad, Kathe A A, Sheela Raj, Deepti Yadav, Sundaramoorthy C and Vigneshwaran N, Functional finishing in cotton fabrics using zinc oxide nanoparticles. Bulletin of Materials Science 29(6), pp 641-645 (2006) 1 0 N Taniguchi, ‘On the Basic Concept of ‘Nano-Technology’,’ Proc Intl Conf Prod Eng, Tokyo, Part II, Japan Society of Precision Engineering (1974) 1 1 D Gopalakrishnan ‘Functional nano finishes for textiles’ www.fiber2fashion.com 1 2 Mick Wilson, Kamali Kannangara Geof Smith, Michelle Simmons, ‘Nano Techno-

13

14 15

16

17

18

19

20

21 22 23 24 25

26

27 28

logy, Basic Science and Emerging Technologies’, Overseas Press (2005) Y W Wang, C W M Yuen, M Y S Leung, S K A Kuand, H L I Lam: Textile Asia, Xxxv, 5,27 (2004) B Mahltig, Textor T, J Sol-Gel Sci Techn 39:111 (2006) David S Soane, Nanoparticle-based Permanent Treatments for Textiles, United State Patent, No 6, 607, 994 (2003) Y W H Wong, C W M Yuen, M Y S Leung, S K A Ku, And H L I Lam, ‘Selected Applications of Nanotechnology in Textiles’, AUTEX Research Journal, Vol 6, No 1, March (2006) H Craighead and K Leong, ‘Nanotechnology Research Direction: Biotechnology, Medicine, and Healthcare’ edited by M C Roco, R S, Williams and P Alivisatos (Kluwer Academic Publishers, Netherlands) pp 164 (2000) Sherman and Jonathan, Nanoparticulate Titanium Dioxide Coatings, and Processes for the Production and Use thereof, U S Pat No 736738 (2003) T K Joeger, R Joeger, E Olsson and C G Granqvist, Trades in Biotechnology 19,15 (2001) Lee H J, Yeo S Y, and Jeong S H, Antibacterial effect of nanosized silver colloidal solution on textile fabrics, Journal of Materials Science, 38 : pp 2199-2204 (2003) http://www.empa.ch Chen L C, Chou T C, Ind Eng Chem Res, 33:1436 (1994) Hung C H, Yang C, J Chin Inst Environm Eng 10:209 (2000) http://www.icongrouponline.com/PR/ Miyuki_Keori_Co_,_Ltd_JP/PR.html D V Parikh, T Fink, K Rajasekharan, N D Sachinvala, et al, Antimicrobial Silver/ Sodium Carboxymethyl Cotton Dressings for Burn Wounds, Textile Research Journal; Feb; 75, 2 (2005) Meredith Dodge, ‘The cleanest underwear in town’, The Taipei Times, Jun 23, pp 15 (2005) Nano Risk news letter (ISSN: 1931-6941), Issue 1, Vol 1, June (2006) www.nanorisk.org

Dr P Senthilkumar is an Assistant Professor (Senior Grade) at the Department of Textile Technology, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore Tamil Nadu, India. E-mail : [email protected]

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 59

QC & PROCESSING

Handmade silk stole Sankar Roy Maulik and Lina Chakraborty

I

ndia is the second largest lighter materials such as producer of textiles and silk and chiffon with garments in the world. The simple finishing. It is textile industry has made a major narrower than a shawl contribution to the national and of simpler economy in terms of direct and construction. indirect employment generation India is the second and net foreign exchange largest producer of silk in earnings. The textile sector the world and among the attracted foreign direct four varieties of silk investment (FDI) of US$ 230.13 mainly produced in the million in fiscal year 2015-16 countr y. Mulberry registering a growth of 16.55 % accounts for 74%, Tasar over the previous fiscal year. This 10%, Eri 16.0% and sector is amongst the largest Muga 0.5% of the total provider of employment and raw silk production1. Spun contributes 12% to the industrial silk is produced from production, 2% of GDP and 13% waste with long staples of the countr y's export earnings which gives yarn its in 2013-2014. The Indian textiles characteristic brilliance. and apparel industry is expected Short stapled waste from to grow to a size of US$ 223 the comber noil is used billion by 2021. for spinning noil or On the other hand, Indian blended yarns. Those handloom industry is one of the yarns are coarse and lack oldest cottage industries diffused the characteristic widely throughout the country and brilliance. The word eri contributes nearby 15% of the means castor plants, total cloth production. 95% of the which derives its name world's hand woven fabric comes from Sanskrit Fig 1 : Hand woven silk stoles from India and this sector has a nomenclature for this unique place in our economy. However, the plant, eranda. Castor leaf is the main food of the adoptions of modern technologies and economic eri worms. This is the only completely liberalisation have made serious inroads into the domesticated non-mulberry variety2. handloom sector. Competitions from powerloom Hence, this article is an attempt to utilise and mill sector, availability of cheaper imported different varieties of fabrics, changing consumer preferences and silk for producing The prime importance of alternative employment opportunities have hand woven stoles threatened the vibrancy of this rich heritage of the by amalgamation of handloom sector is its countr y. Hence, there is a need for enhancing the various designs and ability to introduce a variety value of handloom products through utilisation of traditional motifs to of aesthetic innovations different fibres to improve the livelihood of create a handloom weavers. contemporary design A stole is a woman's shawl made of expensive looks for the export markets. It may also protect fabric wrapped and carried around the shoulders the ‘economically' poor millions of rural ar tisans or arms over a par ty dress. It is typically made of who are in the imminent risk of losing the means

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 60

QC & PROCESSING

of earning their bread using the art of their forefathers.

Experimental Materials Cotton and silk yarn 100s Ne grey and dyed cotton yarn purchased from Nawadeep, Nadia, India was used as warp yarn, whereas 08 tex Eri, 48 tex noil and 32 tex spun, 32 tex bleached Doupion and 46 tex dyed Doupion obtained from Starling Silk Mills Pvt Ltd, Malda, West Bengal, India were used as weft yarns for producing the stoles.

Chemicals Laboratory reagent (LR) grade sodium hydroxide, sodium meta-silicate, sodium carbonate, hydrogen peroxide (50% w/v), sodium sulphate and acetic acid obtained from M/s Loba Chemie Pvt Ltd, Mumbai, India, and anionic wetting agent (T R Oil, i.e. sulphonated castor oil), non-ionic detergent of commercial grade obtained from the local market was used as and when required.

Dyestuffs Tulacid Green SEB, Metalan Scarlet 2-SLP, Tulacid Brill Red 3SBN, Metalan Orange SRLNIP, Tulalan Navy Blue RB and Metalan Brown SRP obtained from ATUL Ltd, India were used for dyeing of silk yarns.

Methods Combined scouring and bleaching In order to remove natural and added impurities from the grey cotton yarn, combined scouring and bleaching treatment was performed by conventional tub method. In this method, a solution was made with sodium hydroxide (3%), sodium carbonate (2%), anionic detergent (0.5%), Turkey Red oil (0.5%) and sodium meta-silicate (2%) and the liquor was heated upto a temperature of 60oC. At this temperature, the yarn was immersed into the solution and boiled for 2 hr. At the time of boiling, hydrogen peroxide solution (2%) was

added in two instalments and the process was further continued for another 1 hr. The scoured and bleached yarn was then washed thoroughly with hot water, followed by cold wash and finally dried in air.

supplied to the weavers of Nawadeep, Nadia, West Bengal. Different motifs were created through extra weft figuring and different varieties of silk yarns were used in the both end of the fabric to create different aesthetic appeal.

Dyeing with acid and metal complex dyes

Manufacturing of stole

Acid dyes are mostly sulphuric or carboxylic acid salts, essentially applied from an acidic bath and have an affinity for protein fibres. On the other hand, in order to avoid complications associated with reaction of metals with dye possessing chelating site, in many cases, the reaction is carried out in the dye manufacturing plant itself and the dye-metal complex is supplied directly to the textile industries for dyeing purposes, known as pre-metallised dye3. Dyeing of silk yarns with acid and/or metal complex dyes was started at 40oC temperature. Initially, 4% acetic acid was added along with 10% Glauber's salt to maintain a pH of 4-5, subsequently required amount of dye was added and dyeing continued at this temperature for 10 min. The temperature was then raised to 85oC at a gradient of 1oC/min and dyeing was continued at this temperature for another 45 min4. The superfluous dye was removed by washing the dyed yarns with 2 gm/l non-ionic detergent at 50oC for 5-10 min, followed by cold wash and finally treated with 5% acetic acid at room temperature for 5 min.

Fabric formation Both scoured and dyed yarns were used during the sectional warping process before the fabrics were produced. To produce 22" width stole, each section was made with a width of 24" so that the ultimate fabric width becomes 48". This handloom fabric was manufactured in fly shuttle type pit loom through various preparatory steps viz. bobbin winding, beam warping, drawing and denting, looming, pirn winding etc prior to weaving. In all the cases, cotton was used as warp yarn; whereas different varieties of silk were used as weft. The fabrics were produced according to the design and pattern (small and medium stripe design, buti design in between stripes etc)

After weaving, the fabric was cut vertically in order to get stoles of 22" width. For finishing purposes, in each stole edge, neatening seam (stitch 1/ 8" lock stitch) was given near the selvedge line and fringes were made at both ends through knotting process.

Quality evaluation Measurement of tensile properties Breaking strength (N) and extension (%) of different varieties of silk yarns were measured according to a method prescribed in IS: 1969 - 1968 in Instron, Model No. 5966. These tests were performed at Department of Jute and Fibre Technology, University of Calcutta. The results obtained were based on an average of 10 tests. The tests were performed with a traverse speed of 300 mm/min and the length of the test specimen was 500 mm.

Determination of fabric thickness The thickness of a specimen is measured as the distance between the reference plate on which the specimen rests and a parallel circular presser-foot that exerts a specified pressure on the area of the textile under test. Thickness of the hand woven stoles was measured following IS: 7702 - 20124 in a Paramount Digithick Tester, maintaining a circular pressure-foot diameter of 28.7±0.02 mm under an applied pressure head of 70.54 gm.

Assessment of fabric drape Drape is one of the subjective performance characteristics of fabric that contributes to aesthetic appeal. It is a complex property involving both, bending and shearing deformations. Fabrics drape, i.e. the extent to which a fabric will deform when it is allowed to Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 61

QC & PROCESSING

hang under its own weight, was measured as per IS: 8357 - 1977 in a Paramount drape tester with a specimen size of 250 mm diameter. This standard provides a simple method for the objective estimation of the extent to which a fabric drapes. Draping quality is expressed as drape coefficient, i.e. the area covered by the shadow of the draped specimen expressed as a percentage of the area of the annular ring of fabric, which theoretically varies between 0 and 100.

Measurement of thermal conductivity Sasmira thermal conductivity apparatus is essentially useful for comparing the thermal insulation properties of materials. The apparatus conforms to the standards of Niven's hot plate. The thermal insulation value of textiles is expressed in ‘clo’ values which, in turn, can be converted to the more frequently used ‘Tog’ value using formula 0.645 x clo = Tog.

Procedure z Switch on the guard box heater after setting the thermostat at 50oC. z Wait till the temperature stabilises at 50oC z Switch on the hot plate heater after setting the thermostat at 50oC. Once temperature reaches 51oC, the thermostat becomes operational and temperature drops to 45oC z Cut the sample to be tested using round plate template z Put the sample on hot plate and cover it with round plate once the temperature of hot plate falls to 45oC z Allow the temperature to rise to 51oC z Temperature starts falling down again. Measure the time taken for the hot plate to cool down from 50oC to 49oC using a standard stop watch Clo = (Time in seconds)/ 240

Determination of fabric stiffness Fabric stiffness, as expressed by the bending length, was measured as per IS: 6490 - 1971 (Cantilever test) in a SASMIRA stiffness tester with a specimen size of 25 mm x 200 mm. The principle employed is to measure a par ticular length of the fabric specimen Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 62

of specified dimensions which bends to a constant angle under its own weight like a cantilever. In this test, the rectangular strip is extended beyond the edge of the platform of the stiffness tester and the free edge of the fabric is allowed to bend under its own weight until the free edge makes an angle of 41.50 with horizontal platform. Higher the bending length, stiffer is the fabric. Bending length measurement was done in both, warp and weft directions of the fabric and the result obtained in each case was the average of 10 tests.

Measurement of wrinkle recovery angle The wrinkle recovery angle of fabric sample was measured using a SASMIRA crease recover y tester in accordance with IS: 4681-1972. Wrinkle-free rectangular specimen of prescribed dimensions is folded in half and compressed under a specified load for a specified time. Thereafter, the creasing load is removed and the specimen allowed to recover for a specified time. At the end of the recovery period, the crease recovery angle is measured. 10 samples for the selected fabric, each of size 15 mm x 40 mm, were cut out. Each cut out fabric piece was folded midway along the length and pressed with 1 kg load between two plastic plates for duration of 5 min. The pressed specimen was then transferred to a SASMIRA wrinkle recovery tester and the angle recovered by the folded specimen after 5 min of unloading was measured. Average crease recovery in each of warp and weft direction (for 10 specimens) was computed.

Colourfastness to washing

complex dyes was assessed in a launder-o-meter in accordance with a method prescribed in IS: 3361-1984 (ISO-II). Washing was done for 45 min at 50 ± 2oC at a yarn-to-liquor ratio of 1:50, employing a non-ionic detergent (5 gm/l), washed in cold tap water and finally dried in air. The change in colour of the original dyed sample and staining on adjacent fabrics were rated between 1-5 using five step grey scales (including half-step) for evaluating change in colour and staining respectively, where a rating of 5 indicates excellent and that of 1 indicates very poor fastness properties. The grey scale used for assessing change in colour and staining were ISO 105-A03:1993 and ISO 105A03:1993, respectively.

Colourfastness to light Colourfastness to light was assessed on a Mercury Bulb Tungsten Filament (MBTF) light fastness tester following a method prescribed in IS: 2454 -1984. One half portion of each sample measuring 1 x 4.5 cm was appropriately covered with a piece of opaque black paper (to provide a control section for visual assessment of photo fading) before placing the same in the light fastness tester. Eight blue wool standards with numbers 1-8 similarly covered and having progressively lower fading rate with increasing standard numbers were also exposed along with the test specimen. The rate of fading of the test specimen was visually compared with that of the standard samples for determination of colourfastness rating. Blue wool standard fabrics used for such purpose had the number ISO 105: BO1C LFS1 - LFS8.

Colourfastness to rubbing

Colourfastness to washing of the silk yarn dyed with acid or metal-

This was determined by employing

Table 1: Breaking strength and extension of silk yarns Type of yarn

Breaking strength (N)

Extension (%)

Eri Spun Doupion (bleached) Noil Doupion (dyed)

1.00 7.18 10.06 6.86 4.44

10.17 10.72 12.39 9.77 10.58

QC & PROCESSING

Table 2: Results of different fabric parameters - I Warp

Warp count

Weft

Weft Count (tex)

Ends/ inch

Picks/ inch

Fabric thickness (mm)

Drape coefficient (%)

Thermal conductivity (Clo value)

Cotton

100s Ne (06 tex)

Spun silk Noil silk Eri silk Doupion silk

32 48 08 32

72 72 72 72

34 32 64 30

0.34 0.46 0.22 0.45

53.90 59.35 38.15 60.12

1.33 1.29 1.39 1.21

Table 3 : Results of different fabric parameters - II Warp

Warp count

Weft

Bending length (cm) Warp Weft

Cross recovery angle ( o) Warp Weft

Cotton

100s Ne (06 tex)

Spun silk Noil silk Eri silk Doupion silk

1.5 1.3 1.2 1.4

95 95 100 95

1.7 1.6 1.4 2.1

100 104 120 98

Table 4 : Colourfastness to washing, light and rubbing

Dyestuff

Tulacid Green SEB Metalan Scarlet 2-SLP Tulacid Brill Red 3SBN Metalan Orange SRLNIP Tulalan Navy Blue RB Metalan Brown SRP

Colourfastness to washing Change Staining on Colourfastness Colourfastness in colour adjacent to light to rubbing fabric (Dry) 3-4 4 3-4 4 3 4

a crock-o-meter following the method prescribed in IS:766-1984. For such purposes, the dyed yarn was placed on the instrument and rubbed with a piece of white fabric of similar construction. The white piece of fabric having similar construction was mounted on the tip of a finger of 900 gm weight which moved to and fro along a track length of 10 cm. The test piece was subjected to the action of such rubbing for 10 cycles in each case, where one complete to and fro movement of the finger over the track constituted one cycle. The staining on adjacent fabrics was rated between 1-5 using five step grey scale (including half-step) for evaluating staining, where a rating of 5 indicates excellent and that of 1 indicates very poor fastness properties. The grey scale used for assessing staining was made in accordance with International Standard

4 4 4 4-5 4 4

5 5 5 5 4-5 5

4 4 4 4 4 4

Organisation (ISO) and had the number ISO 105-A03:1993.

Results and discussion The breaking strength and percentage extension of the silk yarns are repor ted in Table 1. The warp count, weft count, ends/ inch, picks/inch, fabric thickness, thermal conductivity and drape coefficient of different hand woven stoles were tested and the results are tabulated in Table 2; whereas bending length and crease recovery angle are reported in Table 3. Colourfastness to washing, light and rubbing of dyed fabric was assessed and reported in Table 4.

Conclusion Export of handloom textiles has

been identified as the major thrust area for the overall development of the sector. The ever changing consumer preference forces the industry to redefine their business strategies and the diversity of ideas ultimately decides the product lines. Therefore, exploration of new ideas through design innovation is continuously taking place for the survival of this rich cultural heritage. Making handloom fabric popular will give a fresh lease of life to this disappearing art and thus people involved in this industr y will be able to use their skills to maintain their families, while keeping alive the art form that would otherwise soon become a thing of the past.

References 1 Annual Report, Ministr y of Textiles, Government of India (2014-15) 2 Gulrajani M L, Production of Silk, Chemical processing of silk, Edited by M L Gulrajani, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi (1993) 3 Chakraborty J N, Fundamentals and practices in colouration of textiles, Woodhead Publishing India Pvt Ltd, New Delhi, India (2010) 4 Gulrajani M L, Dyeing of silk with acid dyes, Chemical processing of silk, Edited by M L Gulrajani, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi, p 113 (1993). Dr Sankar Roy Maulik has done M Tech in the field of Fibre Science & Technology from Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi and completed PhD (Engineering) from Jadavpur University, Kolkata and has almost 14 years of experience in the field of chemical processing of textiles. Presently he is Assistant Professor II with the Viswa Bharati University, West Bengal. E-mail : [email protected]

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 63

PRODUCTNEWS

Dyes, Auxiliaries and Polymers Devan’s new product line Devan Chemicals, a Belgianheadquartered developer of finishing technologies for textiles, recently launched a new product line. These revitalising agents enable textile manufacturers to boost their textiles and offer health and wellness to consumers. In our daily lives, we are confronted with energy loss, sleep deprivation, ageing, allergens, pollution, UV ‘damage', etc. Devan has found a way to boost the textiles we sleep on, so they can help to reduce negative impacts from ‘outside' and enhance our well being. The patented encapsulation technology enables Devan to create the right blend for the required purpose, it is environmentally safe and skin-friendly. With ageing, our bodies' natural protection against free radicals declines. R-Vital textile treatments can help to strengthen our bodies natural defenses against free radicals. Our skin is the largest organ in our

body; the treated textiles touch our skin. The revitalising ingredients enter inside our bodies and become active. Devan Rvital will boost textiles with a range of ingredients, such as anti-oxidants, that offer extra protection against free radicals, ageing, pollution, UV, etc. Our skin is the ideal means for the transport of revitalising solutions. The treated textiles contain encapsulated ingredients like Ubiquinol, the advanced CoQ10. The content of the capsules is set free through the movement of our bodies and can be absorbed by our skin and transported throughout our body where the antioxidants will disarm free radicals and complement other anti-oxidants.

OEKO-TEX helps parents choose human ecologically harmless textiles

With the STANDARD 100 by OEKOTEX and the new LEATHER STANDARD by OEKO-TEX, OEKO-TEX makes consumer labels available to retailers and manufacturers to help address the growing and affluent target group of health-conscious parents directly with Devan‘s new product line – revitalizing skin & body through textiles.

respect to effective product safety. During their young lives, babies, children and adolescents come into contact with many textile products and leather goods including bedding, towelling, baby sheepskins, play rugs, baby carriers and car seats, backpacks, pillows and blankets, strollers and, of course, clothing to name just a few. For many parents, in addition to the fashion and financial aspects, the question of health safety is important. To simplify this buying decision for parents, OEKO-TEX® offers three labels that communicate at a glance that the articles bearing them have been successfully examined for harmful substances.

Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX Since 1992, the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX label has been an independent certification for products throughout the textile value chain. The strictest criteria apply to Product Class I, which covers articles for babies and toddlers up to the age of 36 months, such as clothing, bibs or bedding. The more intensive the skin contact, the stricter the limit values, which cannot be exceeded. The tests for harmful substances comprise of legally banned and controlled substances and chemicals as well as chemicals for which the detrimental impact on health is known but not yet subject to any legal controls. The requirements of the STANDARD 100 go beyond the existing national legislation. Products are only marked with the STANDARD 100 label if all constituent parts, such as metal buttons or plastic zippers, fulfil the required criteria.

Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX : Supplement for special items So that parents can also be certain that other products with textile components have been tested for harmful substances, in addition to the standard textiles and garments, OEKOTEX also offers an addition to the Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 64

PRODUCTNEWS STANDARD 100 - a supplement for special items. These are products that cannot be covered by the OEKO-TEX testing system as a whole, but their textile components can be tested in accordance with the STANDARD 100 test criteria. Examples of this are outer fabrics and inserts of strollers, bassinets, school backpacks, helmets, heating cushions and heating blankets, chairs and loungers or toys and much more. As with the STANDARD 100 for textiles, with the supplement for special items, the prescribed limit values are also standardised, so that it does not make any difference where the products are manufactured or sold.

Leather Standard by OEKO-TEX The LEATHER STANDARD is the latest label in the OEKO-TEX portfolio and now also includes leather products in the demanding OEKO-TEX tests for harmful substances. Whether a children's article is made completely of fabric or leather or only contains textile components, OEKO-TEX has a comprehensive certification system in order to ensure higher product safety of textiles and leather goods used by children. Therefore, OEKO-TEX offers companies and retailers an entire ecosystem of labels and services - and thus a crucial sales tool for healthconscious parents.

HTE unveils TERATOP XKS HL inks for colourfast technical textiles

Huntsman Textile Effects has introduced a new range of reactive inks that deliver outstanding light- and weather-fastness for digital printing of polyester fibres. TERATOP XKS HL inks are designed to help mills produce technical textiles with the highest colourfastness performance for the automotive, outdoor furnishings and home textiles industries. Materials used in automotive interiors, outdoor furnishings and other demanding environments have to resist fading, yellowing or other colour change when exposed to light and high tempe-

rature. While digital printing is ideal for producing highly patterned and vivid high-value textiles in an environmentally sound way, current digital ink technologies do not meet the industry's weathering and sunlight-fastness demands. This is particularly true in the auto sector, where The unique, dual Odour Control Function of Sanitized Odoractiv 10 upholstery, seatbelt webbing and carpets are often subject to polyester textiles face the same intense sunlight and temperatures. challenge: freshly washed garments The TERATOP XKS HL inks are firstdevelop an unpleasant odour even after in-class disperse inks capable of a short wearing period. The cause of printing on technical textiles that this undesirable effect is not the human require extremely high colourfastness perspiration itself, but the bacteria that and tone-on-tone colour fading. Mills break down the perspiration,’ the can achieve the deepest black shades company explains. and a wide spectrum of colours, with The new, dual-action technology metamerism consistency to meet the from Sanitzed aims to address this needs of customers and endproblem. The surface of the textile is consumers. ‘coated’ with Sanitized Odoractiv 10 in In addition to helping mills produce the padding process. This creates a high-value textiles, the inks also help to protective film on the sur face of the improve mill competitiveness. textile. The bacteria use this antiFormulated for Kyocera print head adhesive protective film as the basis for technology, TERATOP XKS HL inks offer latching onto the garment. The bacteria excellent reliability, runnability and can therefore be completely washed out reproducibility. Mills benefit from faster in a normal wash cycle, consequently production, minimal ink consumption, preventing any biofilm from forming. An less wastage and reduced equipment anti-adhesion test method was maintenance. This helps them to developed in cooperation with EMPA to maximise their productivity while prove this wash effect. reducing the cost of digital printing.

Sanitized develops new Odoractiv 10 dual action technology

Sanitized presents a new dimension to odour-management for functional polyester textiles, with its newly developed wash-resistant Sanitized Odoractiv 10 that has a dual-action effect. On the one hand, it prevents the bacteria from docking on the textile, and, on the other, it adsorbs odours whilst the garment is being worn. ‘Manufacturers of functional

Clariant nanosilver inks

Clariant’s Prelect TPS water-based inks feature functional silver nanoparticles with specifically developed dispersants and capping agents from Clariant’s own portfolio. The inks, which the company says offer excellent product performance, enable manufacturers to print highly defined electric patterns directly onto any surface. From an environmental standpoint, manufacturers can eliminate hazardous chemical metallisation processes, which use toxic chemicals and

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 65

PRODUCTNEWS

Teijin introduces new thermal retention fabric Teijin Frontier, the Teijin Group's fibre-product converting company, has developed Solotex Thermo, a polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) fibre, which is said to offer excellent thermal retention and insulation. The company

Compared to conventional polyester fibre, it raises the wearer's wind-chill factor by 5%, as demonstrated in a sunlight heat-storage test conducted by Boken Quality Evaluation Institute. Teijin Frontier says that it is now

envisions a wide range of promising applications for the new product, including jeans, pants and bottoms etc. Solotex Thermo offers high comfortability, thanks to its softness, form-suitability and stretchability, the company reports. It absorbs near infrared sunlight and converts it to heat efficiently due to carbon-based inorganic particles mixed into the fibre's monocular structure.

exploring marketing opportunities for Solotex Thermo mainly for outerwear. Annual sales are expected to reach 500 tons by the fiscal year ending in March 2021. Teijin is a technology-driven group offering advanced solutions in the areas of environmental value, safety, security, disaster mitigation, demographic change and increased health consciousness.

generate contaminated wastewater. Productivity-wise, depending on the application; the direct printing of electrical traces in connection with additive manufacturing cuts down on the number of manufacturing steps compared with electroplating. ‘Customers choosing Prelect TPS benefit from an optimised solution, fit for industrial application, that draws on Clariant’s expertise in producing and combining particles and critical additives for functional inks’, says Carsten Schauer, Head of New Business Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 66

Project Electronic Materials at Clariant. ‘Our mass-production capabilities also mean we can respond quickly to individual customer deliver y requirements. These factors create added value for customers in the printed electronics segment.' Prelect TPS inks are already proving their value on a range of specialised devices and very thin surface layers requiring high conductivity, including printed cell collection grids in photovoltaics, printed cell phone antennae, radio-frequency identification (RFID)

antennae, printed touch sensor interconnects and electromagnetic interference (EMI) shielding layers.

Highly abrasionresistant and flame retarding material

An example of the high-tech textiles from C F Weber GmbH, Germany, is an extremely tough, highly abrasion resistant polyamide 66 fabric that is suitable for industrial washing at temperatures of upto 75oC. The material, which is available in contrasting colours (certified according to EN 20471), is particularly suitable as a trimming material for work clothing for paramedics, members of road maintenance depots etc, when there is a need for reinforcements at the knee and elbow areas and at pocket openings. In addition, the company has a fabric with a flame-resistant coating in the 2 basic options of polyester and polyamide 66 (both extremely tough, abrasionresistant and flame-retarding, according to EN 14116 Index 1), which can be used for workwear and military clothing (e.g. protective vests). The company also has fabric laminates with a polyester basis, which have been given flame-retardant features for use in mobile transport systems or for protective vests for the police or armed forces.

Revolutionary jacket - sweat without feeling wet

One year after the Swiss-Norwegian company OSMOTEX announced the innovative HYDRO_BOT technology, it is showcasing a jacket that is the sign of what is to come to consumers this year: clothing with embedded electronic moisture management that allows one to sweat without feeling wet. After a period of rigid testing with remarkable results, Osmotex promises HYDRO_BOT to be commercially available in sportswear in the course of 2018. Osmotex launched the technology with a group of partners last year. KJUS has been the primary product development partner and confirmed then that they will be the first brand to

PRODUCTNEWS take HYDRO_BOT to market in selected skiwear products planned for the 2018/ 19 season. Since the technology launch, Schoeller has signed a production agreement with Osmotex. The Swiss leading textile manufacturer will market HYDRO_BOT to its own clients, and Schoeller is showcasing HYDRO_BOT at ISPO. ‘We are very pleased with the progress towards commercialisation and this revolutionary technology will play a crucial role in our vision to stay at the forefront of the global textile industry,' says Schoeller CEO, Sigried Siegfried Winkelbeiner. At ISPO, Osmotex confirmed a new strategic partner for electronics. Applycon, a Czech-based developer and producer of electronics for clothing, will be their preferred supplier for all integrated electronics. ‘Applycon's more than 13 years of experience in wearable solutions and textile integration will be a strong contribution for how to bring a unique technology together with other products towards end-users. We have already delivered the first electronic units that work with the specially developed HYDRO_BOT application,' says Milan Baxa, Managing Director of Applycon. In all the tests, the jackets performed better than existing state-ofthe-art jackets and, when the electronics were switched on, the difference was remarkable.

Senior scientist Stephanie Say-LiangFat from Osmotex with the HYDRO_BOT prototype jacket being showcased at ISPO in Munich

Ancillaries Second WATson increases testing capacity for the textile industry

perspiration. The WATson technology only requires a textile sample measuring 20 x 25 cm to provide these data for product development, quality assurance and marketing purposes. With its additional WATson device, the Hohenstein Institute has doubled its measuring capacity. The properties of all kinds of materials can be investigated flexibly and quickly. The results are supplied within about ten days, so that customer enquiries can be

Modern textiles promise a great deal: some of them are strong performers when it comes to heat and moisture management. A huge amount of scientific research and development work lies behind this functionality. The Hohenstein Institute plays its part as a leading research institution in the field of clothing physiology for the textile industry. Hohenstein has developed innovative technologies for defining and measuring specific thermophysiological At the Hohenstein Institute, the cooling function of textile comfor t factors. materials is tested using the WATson device. Hohenstein works closely responded to promptly. In addition to with companies that want to develop or carrying out standardised measurement optimise textiles with respect to these processes, WATson can also be factors. The institute is able, on one customised to meet specific customer hand, to work out the best possible requirements. These two factors - the product properties and, on the other, to rapid availability of the results and the verify marketing claims about cooling customisation of the measurements effect and moisture management. offer manufacturers a way of measuring In order to cope with the high and optimising performance at every demand from its customers for reliable stage of textile development. WATson methods of quantifying cooling also makes an important contribution to performance, Hohenstein can now maintaining quality standards at the make use of a second WATson Heat production control stage. Loss Tester. This has doubled its capacity to measure the actual physical cooling per formance of MT UV/VIS sportswear and functional garments. spectrophotometer WATson clearly shows the dynamic interaction between textiles and the for colour human thermoregulation system, in measurements var ying climatic conditions and at Mettler Toledo's OneClick user different rates of sweating. The interface enables analysis of sample system analyses even the smallest colour and other qualities within changes in the cooling sensation that seconds; the addition of LabX software results from evaporation on the completes the toolbox, for a solution sur face of the skin and accurately that supports data integrity and determines the cooling effect that the regulatory compliance. textile actually delivers by vapourising

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 67

PRODUCTNEWS spectrophotometers, adds workflow flexibility and supports compliance with regulations such as 21 CFR Pt 11. Together, LabX 2018 and the permit the automation of a research group's custom UV/VIS protocols. With integrated calculations, reports and data management, operators' and lab managers' time is saved, and the risk of transcription errors minimised. Mettler Toledo InMotion sample changers are compatible with a diverse portfolio of analytical instruments. With the new version of Excellence spectrophotometers, InMotion sample changers can now also automate spectroscopic analyses of large numbers of samples. Samples are transferred to the spectrophotometer via peristaltic pump, then measured in a flow cell, providing the user with a fully automated workflow that includes cleaning steps. The release of LabX 2018, which accompanies the new Excellence

Processing and Machinery Monforts Eco Applicator now also for knits

As energy prices rise, textile mills welcome any process that can be introduced to reduce energy costs. This has certainly proved the case with the Eco Applicator from the manufacturer of textile machinery A. Monfor ts

New quick couplings for safe separation Temperature control units are usually connected to the application (e.g. reactor) with insulated hose lines. The separation points are usually equipped with metal-sealing glands. The quick couplings available on the market are usually neither

suitable for the temperature range nor for the broad range of temperature control media. High pressure drops often result in a poor performance of the overall system. Another problem Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 68

is disconnecting the temperature control unit from the application; so far, the circulator always had to be emptied. Huber Kältemaschinenbau, therefore, developed new quick couplings that meet the special requirements for temperature control applications and safely prevent the escape of thermofluid when disconnecting. The new quick couplings guarantee an optimum flow, low pressure loss and good heat transfer. All components are made of stainless steel and with high-quality, durable sealing compounds for safe operation. Minimum axial coupling forces are required due to a bayonet locking device.

Textilmaschinen Gmbh & Co. KG, Monchengladbach, Germany. The Eco Applicator is a soft coating unit which eliminates the need for conventional wet-on-wet padders, instead employing trough and roller techniques to apply the required amount of liquid/coating to the fabric. The unit itself does not actually save the energy, but by applying only the precise amount of functional finish, it ensures that the subsequent drying time is shorter. While being widely market-proven on woven and denim fabrics, major knitting manufacturers are now also reaping the benefits. The Eco Applicator for knits is fitted with an advanced guidance system specially adapted to the needs of delicate treatment and eliminating any possible ‘curling’ of the fabric edges prior to entering the stenter. Compared with a padder system, where the initial moisture content of the fabric entering the stenter is 60%, with the Eco Applicator, it is reduced to 40% and the knit fabric also has the shortest fabric path from the unit into the stenter.

Tropic Knits strikes new path with the Brückner line

German textile machinery producer Brückner Textile Technologies has worked with Tropic Knits Group, a producer of high-quality fine knit garments for brands from Europe, US and South Africa, to develop a completely new machine concept, which CDL Knits, a fully integrated knitting, dyeing and finishing plant of the Tropic Knits Group, bought for its production site in Mauritius. At Forest Side in Mauritius, CDL Knits is producing around 17 tons of knitted fabric (a variety of cotton fabric, cotton blends and viscose) every day, out of which 80% is assigned for Tropic Knits, which converts them into garments. For a long time, the operations and finishing team of CDL Knits has been looking for leaner production processes that would lead to further savings in terms of resources and energy. The finishing line the company operated at that time comprised of a relaxation dryer, a stenter and a compac-

PRODUCTNEWS

tor. The intention was to replace these three finishing machines by only one line without compromising on the quality. The new Brückner line for knitted fabric, which will in future replace CDL’s three finishing machines is a special design: a relaxation dryer with pre-arranged stentering zone. Scroll rollers in the entry of the line provide for the spreading of the fabric and skew straightening rollers for the reduction of spirality. After that, the fabric is pinned on precisely directly behind a special selvedge spreading unit, so that the selvedge waste is later reduced to a minimum. A non-lube vertical transport chain, developed particularly for knitted fabric, transports the fabric through a 10 m long stentering zone. It is provided with a selvedge gumming unit, comprising of several IR dryers and further hot air dryers for a complete dr ying of the gummed selvedges. Depending on the process and the fabric quality, it is possible to operate with upto 60% overfeed and a wet overstretching of 40% and more, according to the manufacturer.

Rapid acceptance for the versatile Eco Applicator from Monforts

One thing that is certain is that energy prices are only going to continue to increase. Monforts Eco Applicator ‘bucks' this trend for woven and knitted fabrics with retro fitting to existing finishing lines. In many textile mills globally, the cost of running integrated manufacturing lines - especially those for fabric finishing that can involve numerous

sequences of heating and subsequent drying - is now eclipsing the cost of paying people to operate them. As a consequence, any process that can be introduced to reduce energy costs is likely to find itself rapidly welcomed by the market. This has certainly proved the case with the Monforts Eco Applicator, which has been highly successful since its introduction, both integrated into new finishing lines or retro-fitted to existing ones. The Eco Applicator is a soft coating unit which eliminates the need for conventional wet-on-wet padders, instead employing trough and roller techniques to apply the required amount of liquid/coating to the fabric. The unit itself does not actually save the energy, but by applying only the precise amount of functional finish, it ensures the subsequent drying time is shorter; in some cases, dramatically so. While being widely market-proven on woven and denim fabrics, major knitting manufacturers are now also reaping the benefits the Eco Applicator provides. Knitted fabrics must never be stretched and need to be treated in a relaxed state. The Montex 8500 stenter with vertical or horiziontal chain return incorporates a TwinAir nozzle system that ensures that the relaxed fabric is kept at a suitable height in between the upper and lower nozzle system, allowing for the fabric's ‘bowing'. Similarly, the Eco Applicator, for knits, is fitted with an advanced guidance system specially-adapted to the needs of delicate treatments and eliminating any possible ‘curling' of the fabric edges prior to entering the stenter. Compared with a padder system, where the initial moisture content of the fabric entering the stenter is 60%, with the Eco Applicator, it is reduced to 40%

and the knit fabric also has the shortest fabric path from the unit into the stenter. The Eco Applicator's versatility also allows mills to apply finishes to just one side of the fabric, or both, and even to apply separate finishes to each side, or to specific areas of a fabric, for endless possibilities, whether treating wovens, denim or delicate knits.

New Qualitex 800 visualization now available for all Monforts textile finishing machines

Since the launch of the new Qualitex 800 visualization system for the advanced Montex 850 stenter, it has met the highest acceptance and appreciation by textile machine operators and mill managers worldwide due to its intuitive and easy operation. Due to the overwhelming success and as a further step towards harmonisation, Monforts has now launched this ‘child play' machine

operation tool for all its continuous dyeing ranges (Thermex) and Sanfor compressive shrinking ranges (Monfortex), as well as for all coating units (texCoat). Mill managers appreciate the optional data bank connection and the setup preprogramming. Qualitex 800 features the ‘slider' effect on a 23-inch screen for quick access to the relevant machine parameters and a free programmable dashboard for complete machine overview at a glance. ¤ Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 69

BOOKREVIEW

CALENDAR 2018

Performance of Home Textiles

March 09-10

Texcon 2018, SVITT, Indore www.events.svvv.edu.in/texcon/

13-15

Filtech 2018, Cologne www.filtech.de

13-16

Best of India Show, Baku, Azerbaijan www.bestofindiashow.com

14-15

Outlook Asia, Singapore www.edana.org

20-23

Techtextil Russia 2018, IEC Expocentre, Moscow. Contact : Marketing Manager : [email protected]

22-23

Intl Textile Conference on Textile 4.0, Mumbai. www.textileassociationindia.com

22-24

CAP India 2018, Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai www.capindiaexpo.in

April 14-17

ITM 2018, Istanbul www.itm2018.com

25-26

ChemProTech India, BCEC, Mumbai www.chemprotechindia.com

May 22-24

Techtextil North America / JEC Composites 2018, Atlanta GA www.techtextilna.com

June 06-08

ANEX 2018, Tokyo www.anex2018.com

17-20

Outdoor 2018, Friedrichshafen, Germany www.outdoor-show.com

July 23-26

ISPO Shanghai 2018, Shanghai www.ispo.com

Subrata Das

Publisher: Woodhead Publishing; Pages: 342

T

his book is aimed at industry professionals, domestic and international retailers, factory owners, buying institutions etc in home textile sectors. The emphasis of the book is on how to achieve the commercial success of desired end product through the knowledge of the key markets producing various home textiles, scope of development through sustainable and ecofriendly fibres, various industry specific standards, evaluation systems and, above all, safety aspects and environmental regulations. The author has a graduation degree in Textile Technology from Government College of Engineering and Textile Technology, Serampore, West Bengal, apart from Masters and PhD degrees from IIT Delhi. He has over 30 years of experience in production, quality assurance, technical and social compliance and R&D in reputed industries in India and abroad. At present, he is working as a Professor (Fashion Technology), Bannari Amman Institute of Technology, Tamil Nadu, India.

High Stakes Leadership

August 18-20

October 15-19

ITMA ASIA +CITME 2018, Shanghai www.itmaasia.com

25-27

Interdye&Textile Printing Eurasia 2018 Istanbul Expo Center www.interdyeprinting.com

2019 February 01-03

March 26-28

2nd Global Textile Technology & Engineering Show (GTTES), BCEC, Mumbai www.india-itme.com IDEA 19, Shanghai www.itmaasia.com

May 14-17

Techtextil/Texprocess, Frankfurt am Main www.techtextil.com

June 20-26

Constance Dierickx

GARTEX 2018, Pragati Maidan, New Delhi www.gartexindia.com

ITMA 2019, Barcelona www.itma.com

Asian Dyer z February - March 2018 z 72

H

Publisher: Routledge; Pages: 216

igh-stakes leadership does not require unnatural powers, nor is it predicated on a dangerous situation. The author describes high-stakes leadership in a simple, three-part model that illuminates the mindsets, strategies, and tactics leaders must draw upon to make tough decisions, take an unpopular stand, or ignore convention, providing real-world examples across a range of sectors and industries. This book helps leaders to sharpen their ability to act decisively, with clarity and focus; test ideas using reason, and course correct as needed; and be resolute and inspire others to continue, even in the face of challenges. The essential aspects of good leadership endure even as the environment and tactics change. Indeed, courage, judgment, and fortitude are not merely tools for survival, they are the means by which we sculpt the future.