RV-12_ Manual .pdf - VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC

VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. GETTING STARTED FUSELAGE KIT

1

INTRODUCTION

20 CENTER SECTION

OPTIONAL KIT 39 AUTOPILOT SERVO BRACKETS

22 FWD LOWER FUSELAGE 24 ROLLOVER STRUCTURE & F-1207 BULKHEAD

21 MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS 23 SIDE SKINS

2 DESIGN PHILOSOPHY 3 TOOLS AND WORKSPACE 5 CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS, PROCESSES & USEFUL INFORMATION

4 PARTS INDEX

25 TAILCONE ATTACHMENT 26 SEAT BACKS

EMPENNAGE / TAILCONE KIT

27 RUDDER PEDALS & BRAKE SYSTEM

28 FUEL SYSTEM

29 FWD UPPER FUSELAGE

6 VERTICAL STABILIZER 10 TAILCONE 7 RUDDER 11 EMP ATTACHMENT 8 ANTI-SERVO TAB 12 EMP FAIRINGS

FINISH KIT

OPTIONAL KIT 40 LIGHTING

30 WING ATTACHMENT 31 FUSELAGE WIRING HARNESS

WING KIT 32 FLIGHT CONTROLS 13 SPAR ASSEMBLY

33 MISCELLANEA

34 CANOPY

OPTIONAL KIT 41 INTERIOR PANEL KIT

9 STABILATOR

37 FUEL TANK

35 LANDING GEAR & ENGINE MOUNT

15 WING RIBS

38 COWLING

17 WING SKINS

14 REAR SPAR, STUB SPAR, HINGE BRACKETS 16 STALL WARNING 18 FLAPERON

AVIONICS KIT

OPTIONAL KIT 43 DUAL DISPLAY

42 AVIONICS & AVIONICS WIRING HARNESS

OPTIONAL KIT 36 GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS

OPTIONAL KIT

POWERPLANT KIT

44 AP-74 & AUTOPILOT SERVOS 45 ENGINE INSTALLATION 46 SPINNER & PROPELLER 47 EXHAUST SYSTEM 48 COOLING SYSTEM 49 ENGINE CONTROLS 50 FIREWALL FORWARD WIRING HARNESS

DOCUMENTATION KIT 51 PLACARDS AND CERTIFICATION DOCUMENTS DATE:

02/26/09

REVISION:

1

RV-12

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01-01

VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC.

SECTION 1: INTRODUCTION INTRODUCTION Welcome to the wonderful world of homebuilt aircraft. The project you are about to undertake (assuming that this is your first homebuilt airplane) will probably be the most frustrating, time-consuming, enjoyable, fulfilling, and rewarding that you have ever experienced. The ultimate success of this project is determined by many factors, the most important of which only you control. These include your skills, patience, willingness to learn, willingness to seek help when necessary, and a firm desire to create for yourself a very special personal airplane. The Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) allows us to build and fly experimental aircraft for the purpose of education and recreation. The education part is up to you. This instruction manual has been compiled to help you achieve your goal. Though we have made it as detailed and instructive as we feel is practical, it does not supply everything you need to know to complete an RV-12. These instructions tell you specifically how to build an RV-12, and presuppose that you already know (or will learn) the basics of aluminum aircraft construction. To assist your education, we have included a copy of the Standard Aircraft Handbook in your kit. Additionally, we have listed several other books and manuals that are helpful in this regard. Additional help during construction can be had by becoming a member of the Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA), reading their Sport Aviation and Sport Pilot magazines, and most of all, by being an active member of one of their 600+ chapters. Associating with other homebuilders, particularly RV builders, can be extremely helpful and can even make the difference between success and failure of your project. It can provide actual building assistance, technical knowledge, and moral support. In many places RV builders have formed their own organizations, often modeled on EAA chapters. They publish newsletters, hold regular meetings, and exchange techniques, information & tools. We have been highly impressed by the craftsmanship and camaraderie demonstrated by these Builders Groups and encourage any RV builder to join or form one whenever possible. (A list of Builders Groups and contact persons is available by contacting Van's Aircraft or by visiting http://vansaircraft.com/public/buildgrp.htm.) Building an airplane is a big undertaking, and a builder should never be too proud or individualistic to take advantage of what others have to offer. It is a rare person who is so skilled that he/she cannot benefit from others.

As a builder, it is up to you to check our website frequently. When you find a builders manual page with a later date or higher revision number than the one you have... IF it shows a portion of construction you have not reached... THEN simply print-out the new page and destroy the old one. IF it shows a portion of construction you have already accomplished... THEN there is NO NEED to re-do any step of construction to conform with a revision. In any situation, there is NO NEED to keep track of exactly what changed. Service Bulletins: will be issued if, for some reason, an already accomplished step must be re-done. The service bulletin will detail the steps that must be re-done along with any parts or hardware necessary to accomplish the required change. If/when a service bulletin is issued, we will contact all affected builders as well as post the service bulletin on our website and publish it in the RVator (available as a free download at vansaircraft.com). Given the potential need for us to contact you, the builder, it is important to keep Van's Aircraft informed as to your current e-mail address and mailing address. The builders manual not only guides you through the assembly process but also defines the exact configuration of your particular aircraft. For this reason the builders manual is considered a part of the aircraft documentation package and should remain with the aircraft if/when ownership is changed.

HELPFUL BOOKS AND MANUALS AIRCRAFT SHEET METAL CONSTRUCTION AND REPAIR

Sources for some or all of these include:

SHEET METAL, Vol. #1

Van's Aircraft, Inc.

VAN'S BUILDER ASSISTANCE Van's offers builders assistance on the telephone between the hours of 7:00 am to 9:00 am and 3:30 pm to 4:30 pm Pacific Time. You can also e-mail us at [email protected]. Please, for speedier answers when you call, have your builders manual with you and be ready with your 6-digit customer/builder number. When e-mailing questions please be sure to say that you are building an RV-12 and to specify the manual page(s) you are referencing.

A WORD ABOUT THE BUILDERS MANUAL When the kits are shipped, they have the latest revision of the builders manual. The builders manual matches the parts as shipped. Over time, we make changes, corrections and improvements to the builders manual. There is no need to request newer versions. New drawings may not match the parts that you have. Van's has decided that our website (www.vansaircraft.com) will be the mechanism for putting necessary revisions into the hands of builders, therfore it is essential that all RV-12 builders have access to a computer with an internet connection and an email account. The cost to builders should be minimal, as public access computers in libraries may be used, with a free gmail or hotmail account. These are essential for downloading manual revisions and are the primary means (with the Van's website) for us to stay in contact with RV-12 builders. Paper manual revisions will not be mailed out in order to reduce costs and maintain kit affordability. Most builders will also want a computer/internet access to become part of the online RV community. Here's how our revision system works: Change Memos: note changes to the build process or insignificant spelling/wording changes that do not in any way alter the configuration of the finished aircraft. Memo changes will NOT show a revision level change in the title block but will show a change to the revision date. Change Notices: note dimensional changes, change of parts/hardware, or any additional instructions or changes to the build process which result in a change in the configuration of the finished aircraft. Notice changes WILL show a revision level change in the title block as well as a date change.

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RV-12

REVISION:

3

DATE: 02/22/10

THE SPORTPLANE BUILDER FIREWALL FORWARD SPORTPLANE CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES THE AEROELECTRIC CONNECTION (A great source for wiring information)

Robert L. Nuckolls III (The Aeroelectric Connection) 6936 Bainbridge Rd Wichita, KS 67226 316-685-8671 Builder's Bookstore PO Box 270 Tabernash, CO 80489 970-887-2207 www.buildersbooks.com

BUILDING THE METAL AIRPLANE LIGHT AIRPLANE CONSTRUCTION FAA ADVISORY CIRCULAR 43.13

Avery Enterprises 411 Aviator Drive Ft. Worth TX 76179 phone: 817-439-8400 800-652-8379 fax: 817-439-8402 www.averytools.com Experimental Aircraft Association PO Box 3086 Oshkosh WI 54903-3086 www.eaa.org


SECTION 2: DESIGN PHILOSOPHY INTRODUCTION Before getting into the construction details of your RV-12, let's take a look at the design philosophy and goals that are the basis for this airplane. The goal was to achieve the maximum overall performance, flying enjoyment, ease of construction, building and flying economy, ease of maintenance, and pleasing appearance possible for a two-place airplane. Understanding how this was achieved might help you better appreciate many features of the RV-12 as you encounter them during construction. The formula for achieving maximum overall performance is amazingly simple: Maximize thrust, minimize drag; maximize lift, minimize weight. The implementation of this formula is a bit more complex, however. Thrust, for a given HP engine, has been maximized through use of a good propeller, streamlining of the engine cowl, and directing the engine outlet rearward. Drag was minimized by keeping the aircraft frontal area to a minimum and shaping all airframe components to reduce aerodynamic drag. Lift was maximized through use of a wing with adequate area and good airfoil. Weight is minimized by careful structural design, by using the best airframe materials, and by installation of only essential instrumentation and equipment. Most of the literally hundreds of features which comprise the overall RV-12 package have been determined in the design stage and involve no choices for the builder unless he chooses to make major modifications. There is little that a builder is likely to do which will have much effect on either thrust or lift of his RV. However, construction techniques and additional installed equipment can have noticeable effects on both drag and weight - the archenemies of performance.

A NEW AVIATION HORIZON In 2004, the FAA created sport pilot/light-sport aircraft (SP/LSA) regulations. The most significant change in FAA regulations in 50 years, it allows easier and lower-cost access for those wishing to participate in the joy of flight. With adoption of SP/LSA, flying has become less expensive and easier than ever before. You can become a sport pilot with as little as 20 hours of flight instruction. You can fly a one- or two-seat aircraft capable of speeds up to 138 mph. And in most cases, you can pass the medical requirements just by showing your driver's license. BASIC PARAMETERS OF LSA The FAA has defined light-sport aircraft as simple-to-operate, easy-to-fly aircraft that, since initial certification, has continued to meet the following performance definition:

Van's Aircraft, Inc.'s only option at this time (April 2008) is to license the RV-12 as an S-LSA. This will allow our customers to build an E-LSA from our kit when purchased. This limits aircraft "options" to those tested and approved by Van's Aircraft. We encourage builders to do this as it will minimize construction time and produce consistent airplanes. Builders may choose to build and certify their RV-12 aircraft under the Experimental - Amateur Built rules which allow greater latitude for deviation from the kit manufacturer's design standard. Van's anticipates that E-AB kit certification will be an option, but at this time (April 2008), E-AB certification will be on an individual basis and the sole responsibility of the builder.

RV-12 DESIGN FEATURES The RV's "traditional" configuration - tractor engine, monoplane, stabilizer in the rear, is an exercise in logic and not simply a concession to convention. There are many good reasons why light planes have been built this way for decades, other than the often heard arguments of "entrenched design mentality" from those seeking "technological breakthroughs". The bottom line is that this configuration has proven to offer the best compromise resulting in the best all around airplane. The constant chord wing planform chosen for the RV-12 offers the ultimate in construction ease, stability, and lifting ability. The possible drag and aesthetic penalties for the rectangular wing are negligible in light of its advantages. The airfoil used is a modified NACA 23014.1, an old wing section often maligned in "airfoil selection" articles and texts. However, this basic airfoil section has been used on some of the world's most successful airplanes ranging from the Taylorcraft and Helio Courier on one end of the scale, to the Turbo Commander and even the Cessna Citation on the other end. Others using it include the DC-3, all tapered wing Beechcrafts, and many of the Cessna twins. Given that low cost of ownership is a selling point for any Light Sport Aircraft and is a prime design goal of all RV designs, the RV-12 incorporates wings that are easily removable. Because the cost of hangar space is typically the single biggest aircraft ownership expense, removable wings mean that storage costs can be reduced (by sharing of 'on-airport' hangar space) or eliminated (by storage 'off-airport' at home). This design feature drove other features such as placement of fuel tank in the fuselage, selection of full-span drooping ailerons (flaperons) which automatically hook-up upon wing installation, and location of the pitot tube in the spinner. Because the RV-12 would possibly be trailered to and from the airport, the wings-removed width had to be sufficiently narrow to allow it to be legally trailered. This limited the span of the horizontal tail surface to 8 ft. The limited tail span requires that the RV-12 use a long fuselage placing the tail surfaces well aft for good control authority.

Maximum gross weight of 1,320 lb Maximum stall speed of 45 kt CAS Maximum speed in level flight with maximum continuous power of 120 kt CAS One or two person occupancy (pilot and one passenger) Fixed or ground adjustable propeller Fixed landing gear Single reciprocating engine Unpressurized cabin

Seating arrangements vary between the RV designs, depending on the primary mission envisioned. Side-by-side seating was chosen for the RV-12 because this arrangement is generally preferred for its primary mission: Sport Flying. Specific advantages of the side-by-side configuration include equal visibility for both occupants, more easily achieved dual control capability, lots of instrument panel space, minimized CG travel for various loading conditions, and a full cowling with room for engine accessories and plumbing. The RV-12 design places the occupants further forward than the other side-by-side RV designs. This seating position allows for excellent visibility even in the downward direction because the wing leading edge is far aft relative to the occupants' eyes. The potential down-side of this 'cab-forward' arrangement is a CG that is further forward than desired. The selection of the very light Rotax 912ULS engine enables the RV-12 to balance well even with two heavy occupants sitting forward of the wing spar.

The FAA has allowed manufacturers to market an aircraft that complies with S-LSA design, production, maintenance, and continuing airworthiness consensus standards as a kit that requires only minor assembly. The assembly, however, must be done in accordance with a factory-supplied, assembly manual that complies with the appropriate ASTM consensus standard. Only manufacturers that have already received an S-LSA airworthiness certificate are eligible to offer an E-LSA Kit. The E-LSA kit offers some advantages over traditional Experimental - Amateur Built kits, primarily that there is no "major portion" requirement limiting the allowed level of completeness of E-LSA kits.

Designers often use the term "Mission Profile" which simply refers to the function an airplane is designed to perform. The RV-12's mission profile is rather broad -- it is intended to fill nearly all sport flying needs - excellent flying qualities, maximum speed allowed under LSA rules, low stall speed, good visibility, simple assembly for the home-bulider, economical to own and operate. Meeting all these needs required a design "balancing act''. Favoring one need often adversely affects others. An example would be emphasizing cross country cruise performance by installing extra radios, instruments, and upholstery. The weight added would adversely affect all other performance parameters. This is not a "maybe", it is a certainty. Whether the trade-off is worthwhile is a decision that can only be made by the builder. (continued on next page...)

DATE: 02/22/10 REVISION:

1

RV-12

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02-01


We feel that an RV-12 in its basic form with fixed-pitch prop, modest instrumentation & avionics, and Rotax 912ULS engine represents the best compromise. Obviously, we could go on and on, covering every design decision, compromise, or concession. However, it should be obvious by now that every feature of the RV-12, whether major or minor, was the end product of much deliberation. In almost all instances, these features are so inter-related that altering one will affect several others; meaning that a builder should not consider making changes unless he is willing and capable of analyzing the overall impact of the change. NOTE: Van's Aircraft Inc. kits are carefully designed and tested. They will demonstrate performance very close to quoted figures with the engines and propellers recommended. Van's Aircraft recommends that the kits only be assembled according to the supplied plans. If the builder chooses to deviate from the plans and install a non-standard engine or to modify the aircraft to a configuration other than what is called out in the plans, he or she is assuming responsibility for the airworthiness of that modification and any effect it may have on the airworthiness of the airframe and/or powerplant. Technical support may not be available for modifications that deviate from the plans nor for installations that are not specifically recommended by Van's Aircraft. Keep in mind that insurance companies may not be willing to write a policy on an aircraft that has been modified to a configuration other than that recommended by the manufacturer. Prior to modification, the builder should check with their insurance provider regarding this matter. If a kit is modified in any significant manner, it should not be considered an RV (type) for registration purposes.

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RV-12

REVISION:

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DATE: 02/22/10


SECTION 3: TOOLS AND WORKSPACE While building an RV requires some investment in special tools, most builders with home workshops already own many of the basics. In addition, there are a number of tools which are nice to have, but not essential. The RV-12 has been specifically designed to minimize the need for an extensive tool list. See the RV-12 Required Tool List for the tools specifically required for RV-12 construction on Page 03-02. Tools marked with an "*" are on the required tool list.

*Hand Seamer: Required for bending small tabs and flanges, and for straightening or re-aligning major flanges.

Unless you live in a major metropolitan area, you probably have to order specialized tools by mail or online. Several mail order tool houses offer excellent quality and service. Van's surveyed RV builders about the quality and service provided by the various mail order tool houses. The results generally agreed with the old adage: "you get what you pay for." Inexpensive tools often proved to be of inferior quality, resulting in frustration and poor results. We have supplied a list of tool suppliers in our printed and online catalogs.

*Cleco Fasteners: Cleco is a trade name which has come into common use to mean Temporary Sheet Metal Fastener. This is a little cylindrical shaped device about the size of a 45 caliber bullet. It has a spring loaded barbed pin in the end which fits into a drilled hole in two or more thicknesses of sheet and locks them together. More is better....many builders measure them by the quart. *Cleco Pliers: As the name implies, this is a pliers-like tool used for installing and removing temporary sheet metal fasteners.

STATIONARY TOOLS

*C-Clamps: About 2'' size.

Grinder: a bench grinder with a Scotchbrite polishing wheel is extremely useful. While the edges of sheet metal parts can be deburred and/or sanded smooth, the grinder will save many hours. Grinders with totally enclosed motors will endure the abrasive dust better. Bench

Belt sander: many builders report that a benchtop 1'' belt sander is one of their most used tools. Most of the jobs it does could be accomplished with a file and sandpaper, so it is not essential, but it will save a lot of time. Air Compressor: Output and tank volume are not critical, but it should be capable of 75 psi. If you plan to use rotary air tools like air drills or die grinders, a larger tank (20 gallons or more) will keep the compressor from running continuously. Any 1 1/2 to 2 hp home shop compressor with enough volume to power a spray gun will be adequate. Band Saw: another non-essential but handy tool. Drill Press: One of the most useful auxiliary tools. Kit builders can manage without, but will find many uses if they have one.

HAND TOOLS *Hand Held Drill Motor: A 1/4 or 3/8 electric hand drill will do. A variable speed reversible drill is better. Battery drills can be convenient, and some of the high power, high rpm models do an excellent job. A minimum of 1100 to 1200 rpm are necessary. Two or more electric drill motors is a good idea. For instance, you might have a drill bit in one, and a machine counter-sink in another. They are cheap enough to make this convenience affordable. Air drills are preferred by many builders because of their small size, high speed, and variable speed feature. They do use a lot of air, however, so plan on having a compressor with a larger tank. *Drill Bits: the basic tool of RV building. We have found that High Speed Steel bits work well for small holes. "Split point" drill bits, either the 118 deg or the 135 deg, work especially well, giving a clean start and a round hole. Split points almost eliminate the ugly "worm track" left when a bit does not start cleanly and spins off across the workpiece. Plexi or plastic drilling bits are designed to minimize the risk of chipping or cracking. *Unibits: Also known as stepdrills. Drilling holes larger than 1/4" in thin sheet metal with a twist drill often results in distorted holes or parts. The Unibit cuts these larger holes in sheet aluminum cleanly and quickly, and also work very well in plexiglass. They are stepped in 32nds and 16ths. *Deburring bits: several styles are available. A hand swiveling type is inexpensive and works well. Adapters that fit deburring bits to slow turning electric screwdrivers and hand drills have become popular for large jobs, such as deburring big skins. Three flute deburring cutters are widely available and generally work well, but they do have a tendency to chatter. Single flute deburring bits work beautifully. *Dimple Dies Many of the skins are too thin to machine away metal for the countersunk rivets and screws, and dimpling is required. Dimple dies, made from high quality tool steel, come in male/female pairs. Used in a squeezer, they form rivet shaped depressions in sheet metal.

*MicroStop Countersink: or "machine countersink cage". This tool holds a piloted cutter and has a micro-adjustable sliding sleeve to set the depth of cut. Only one is necessary, but two, set up with different cutters, are a nice convenience.

*Other Clamps: You can never have too many spring clamps. They are a quick and inexpensive way of setting up and holding assemblies together. Do not trust them to hold parts in alignment when drilling -- the springs do not provide enough clamping pressure to resist power tools. There are many types of cam clamps, almost like mini-vice grips available from different manufacturers. They hold much better than spring clamps and are usually a worthwhile investment. *Metal Cutting Snips: Right hand and left hand offset snips are required. *Pop-Rivet Puller: Used extensively in RV-12 construction to set blind or pop-rivets. Most commonly available flush head Blind Rivets (often referred to as Pop-rivets, a trade name) have 120 deg. head angles rather than the 100 deg. for flush head AN rivets. Thus, special dimple die sets are needed for a perfect fit, although almost all builders we know use regular dimple dies and report acceptable results. We recommend using the "Pop" Riveter PRP-26A, USM Corp., not all rivet pullers will fit into the tighter spaces for RV-12 construction. Although not required, a pneumatic puller is highly recommended and can be run with a small air-compressor. Body File: Also known as a Vixen file or a SuperShear (Nicholson brand name.) Distinguished by the crescent shaped cutters across the width of the file. Not an absolutely essential tool, but is very useful for smoothing the edges of thicker gauges of aluminum. *Fluting Pliers: Used for crimping rib flanges, etc. to effectively shrink them and straighten the part. Several styles are available. We prefer pliers that leave a crisp indentation, and avoid the type with the large rubber tips. These make a wide shallow flute which gives less flat area for rivets. *Edge Deburring Tools: A selection of tools as listed in the required parts list. Deburring tools are used for rounding and smoothing the edges of sheet metal parts. *Hand Rivet Squeezer: Used for dimpling and setting rivets near material edges. There are cheap ones on the market, but they give poor results. Spend the money. Paint Spray Gun/Respirator : Priming of internal parts of an RV requires a spray gun. Almost any quality gun will do because primer finishes are not as critical as exterior painting. One of the biggest problems involved in priming is cleaning up. Often only a small amount of priming is needed. Small spray guns with disposable cup reservoirs are adequate for priming. Clean up of the spray nozzle is very simple, and the spray pattern quality is more than adequate for priming. Respiratory protection from primers and paints should not be taken lightly. Those warnings are on paint cans for a reason! A good respirator (not a dust mask) is essential. In the last year or two, "fresh air" spray systems, using an oil-less compressor to supply fresh air from a remote source to a respirator or spray helmet, have become affordable. *Files: A minimum of 3 or 4 will do. Small round, flat, and flat-face/round back. *Torque wrench: This is a must have tool. Get one calibrated in inch-pounds, a foot pound wrench will do you no good. Aircraft nuts and bolts have specific torque values (see the Standard Aircraft Handbook or the table reprinted in Section 5 of this manual) that can only be set accurately with this tool. It is very easy to over torque the small AN3 (10-32) bolts without one. DATE: 02/22/10 REVISION:

1

RV-12

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VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. RV-12 BUILDER'S TOOL REQUIREMENTS (CONTINUED) 1X 1X 1X

12' Tape measure Needlenose pliers Diagonal cutter

1X

Olfa RTY-2/G 45mm Rotary Cutter (or equivalent)

*Tubing Flaring Tool: Fuel lines need to have the proper 37° flare on the end in order to seal properly. Buy one or borrow one, but don't try to use an automotive 45° tool.

1X 1X

Left hand offset metal cutting snips Right hand offset metal cutting snips

*Heavy soft faced hammer: Select one between 12 and 24oz.

1X 1X

Wire crimper/stripper Multimeter (with continuity check capability)

1X

Carburetor Synchronizing Tool

*Taps: Used to add internal threads to drilled holes. See required tool list for specific sizes. *Tubing bender: Although there are not a lot of aluminum tubes in the RVs, those that are there need to be bent properly. Fuel lines, pitot lines etc. need to be kink free.

All required equipment can be purchased from one of the suppliers listed in our accessories catalog. While other suppliers are available, these have catalogs available which make shopping easier. These catalogs are also useful as a general information source about sheet metal tools. Several of the larger general parts suppliers such as Aircraft Spruce and Wicks publish extensive catalogs which are very valuable not only introducing the builder to the wide variety of hardware, tools, and parts available, but also including useful charts and table of aircraft standards. Following is a list of tools compiled specifically for building the RV-12. While we feel that those tools we have listed are sufficient, some builders (or groups of builders) might have the resources and desire to have a super well equipped shop and should be aware that there is practically no limit to the variety of tools available. Within reason, money spent on good tools is seldom regretted.

RV-12 BUILDER'S TOOL REQUIREMENTS 1X 6" Bench Vise 10X Small (2") "C" clamps 4X Large (3") spring or "pony clamps 1X

PAGE

1X 1X 1X 2X 1X

3/32 rivet dimple die set (should include a reduced dia. female die) 1/8 protuding head rivet set (tall, 1/2" thick) 1/8 rivet dimple die set (100°) #8 screw dimple die set Flush head rivet set (short, 1/8" thick) Flush head rivet set (tall, 1/2" thick)

1X 1X 2X 1X 2X 1X 3X 1X 1X 5X 1X 1X 1X 1X 1X 1X

#3 drill bit #11 drill bit #12 drill bit #16 drill bit #19 drill bit #27 drill bit #30 drill bit 12" extension drill #30 #36 drill bit #40 drill bit #52 drill bit 1/4" drill bit 5/16" drill bit Q or 11/32nd drill bit 3/8" drill bit 1/4" to 3/4" X 1/16 step drill (Unibit)

1X 1X 1X 1X 1X 1X 1X

100° machine countersink cutter with #12 pil ot 100° machine countersink cutter with #19 pil ot 100° machine countersink cutter with #27 pil ot 120° machine countersink cutter with #30 pil ot 100° machine countersink cutter with #30 pil ot 100° machine countersink cutter with #40 pil ot Countersink cage

03-02

RV-12

REVISION:

10

DATE: 02/17/11

1X 1X 1X 1X 1X 1X 1X 1X

1/4-28 tap 5/16-24 tap 3/8-16 tap 3/8-24 tap 6-32 tap 8-32 tap 10-24 tap T-handle for taps

350X #30 clecos 50X #40 clecos 1X Cleco pliers 1X 1X 1X 1X 1X

Deburring countersink tool with flute cutter Multi-burr deburring tool (Royal style) Screwdriver with #2 phillips bit Combination wrench set (1/4"-3/4" & 10mm-17mm) Allen wrenches, assorted (inch & metric)

1X

Feeler guages: .012-.016in.

1X

Fish scale (0-50lbs)

1X

Files (assorted)

1X

Fluting pliers

1X

Hacksaw with fine tooth (32 teeth per inch) blade

1X 1X

Hand blind rivet puller "POP" Riveter PRP-26A, USM Corp. Hand solid rivet squeezer with 3" yoke

1X

Hand Seamer

1X

Heavy soft faced hammer

1X

Torque wrench (inch pounds scale)

1X 1X 1X 1X 1X 1X 1X

1/4" drive socket set (with inch & metric sockets) Socket and ratchet handle for 1 1/4" nut (big!) Socket 19mm (3/4in) Allen Sockets: 4mm, 5mm, 8mm Aviation flaring tool (tube) Tubing cutter Tubing bender

1X

Battery powered drill motor

1X

Cable Tensiometer

RV-12 BUILDER'S SUPPLIES REQUIREMENTS SUB-KIT QTY ITEM All 1 box Sharpie pen - fine point; blue or black All 1 box Sharpie pen - extra fine point; blue or black

SUB-KIT QTY ITEM Finish 1X Balloon (Fuel tank test) Finish 1X 8 x 36 Protective paper

Emp 1 roll String Emp 1 tube Super glue Avionics 1 tube Boelube

Finish Finish Finish Finish Finish

1X 2X 2X 1X 2X

8 1/2 x 11 sheet of 60 grit sandpaper 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of 80 grit sandpaper 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of 100 grit sandpaper 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of 150 grit sandpaper 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of 220 grit sandpaper

Emp Emp

1X 1X

Rectangle sanding block Cylindrical sanding block; 1 - 1 1/4 Dia.

Finish Finish Finish

3X 1X 1X

1" wide paint brush (cheap, natural bristle type) 2" wide paint brush (cheap, natural bristle type) 3" wide paint brush (cheap, natural bristle type)

Fuse Fuse Fuse All Pwr Plnt Pwr Plnt Wing Pwr Plnt

1 can 1 can 1 tube 1 tube 1 tube 10 ml 10 ml 1 tube

Finish Finish Finish Finish Finish

3 yd 1 yd 1 qt 1 qt 25

Pipe Thread Sealant Fuel Tank Sealant Firewall Sealant RTV Sealant Clear Silicone Loctite 221 Loctite 243 Loctite Heavy Duty Anti-Seize

Finish Finish Finish

9oz/sq yd plain weave "E-glass" fabric Peel ply (optional) kit of epoxy resin & hardener Acetone (for clean-up) Mixing cups (Solo™ clear plastic cups recycle code #1 or #5) 50 Craft sticks (a.k.a. popsicle sticks) 1/4 lb flocked cotton fiber (a.k.a. "flox") 1/4 lb glass spheres (a.k.a. "micro-balloons")

All Finish Finish

1 roll Low-tack "painters" masking tape 1 roll Mylar Packing Tape 1 roll Duct tape

VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. PARTS DESIGNATION SYSTEM

WORKSPACE REQUIRED

All parts in an RV structure (other than standard aircraft hardware items or common vendor items) have a part number assigned to them. Here is a typical part number, followed by an explanation of the numbering system: W-606A

We rarely encounter builders who feel that they have too much workspace; it's about like having too large a bank account -- there is no such thing! The derivation of the word "Homebuilt'' is obvious, and most of us have heard stories of airplanes being built in basements or attics where the walls had to be knocked down to get them out when finished. We expect that some RVs will also be built, or partially built, in some rather strained quarters. However, we suggest that the desired building space be about that of a two-car garage (about 20 x 20 ft). While this is more than enough for building individual airframe components, it will come in handy for storing completed components while others are being built, and for final assembly, etc.

1. The first letter designates the major portion of the airframe in which the part is used. In this instance, "W'' denotes "WING''. Other prefixes are: W - Wing, F - Fuselage, HS - Stabilator, VS - Vertical Stabilizer, R - Rudder, A - Flaperon, FF - Firewall Forward, T - Tank, U - Undercarriage, WD - Weldment, C - Canopy. 2. The first number, for example, "6", usually refers to the model, RV-6. Numbers have been allocated in blocks of 100 for our various models and future models. Thus, most 300 series numbers are for the RV-3, 400 series numbers for the RV-4, 1200 series numbers for the RV-12, etc. In some cases, however, you will find 400 or even 300 series part numbers in RV-6 plans. In these cases, the part is common to more than one aircraft and to avoid the confusion of having one part with two possible part numbers, we will use only one number. 3. The last number, or last two numbers, refer to the specific part in that airframe component. The example W-606 is the wing spar. 4. The suffix letter is used when a part, such as the wing spar in this instance, consists of two or more assembled parts. In this example, the "A" designates the spar web, to which are riveted W-606B, W-606C, etc., parts.

One of the tougher problems is finding a place to spray paint. Some builders choose to corrosion proof their airplanes, and the two part epoxy primers usually used can be toxic, or, at best, unpleasant. A well ventilated spray area, partitioned or in a separate building from the work area is necessary. A corner of the shop cordoned off with plastic sheet and equipped with an exhaust fan is a common solution. A firm table with a smooth, level surface of about 3' x 6' is needed for RV-12 construction. You will probably want a larger table or tables than this to hold tools, hardware, and other completed or semi-completed surfaces. Did you ever see anything even vaguely resembling a table top which wasn't immediately cluttered beyond the point of use? Like shop space, you never seem to have enough table space either.

Raw materials use a different numbering system. AA Aluminum Angle AB Aluminum Bar AS Aluminum Sheet AT Aluminum Tube PS Plastic Sheet/Strip PT Plastic Tube SS Steel Sheet SSP Stainless Steel Pin ST Steel Tube The next number denotes the temper, condition or alloy: 0 Soft Aluminum 3 T-3 (aluminum) 6 T-6 (aluminum) 4130 Steel alloy The number following the dash shows the thickness of the material -025 0.025" -032 0.032" Next the size is specified: An example: AS3-032x15x20 shows a part of Aluminum Sheet, temper T-3, 0.032" thick, 15"x20" When referring to parts for re-ordering or technical assistance purposes, please use the full number so that confusion can be avoided. Standard aircraft hardware is listed by the most common designation, usually numbers with either AN, MS, or NAS prefixes. "AN" is for Army/Navy, "MS" is for Military Standard, and "NAS" is for National Aerospace Standard. The numbers and letter in an aircraft hardware designation all tell something about the part. For example, one of the most basic is that of aircraft bolts. One example would be an AN3-4A, which means that it is a 3/16'' diameter bolt (first number) which is 4/8 (1/2) inch long, has fine threads (std. for aircraft hardware), and has an undrilled shank (A suffix). It is not our purpose here to list information about all types of aircraft hardware used in an RV. We hope that one or more of the reference texts you purchase as construction aids will provide such listings. Catalogs from aircraft hardware suppliers listed in our accessories catalog usually have a wealth of general information of this nature, and are a valuable reference source even if they are old and prices are out of date. DATE: 02/22/10 REVISION:

2

RV-12

PAGE

03-03

VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. Center Line: Used for the center line of holes, tubes, discs, and any other part which is symmetrical on each side of the center line. This is a series of long and short dashes. Detail "X": Denotes that the portion of the drawing enclosed within the circle is shown elsewhere in greater detail.

MECHANICAL DRAWINGS AND MECHANICAL DRAWING READING While mechanical drawings are not a tool in the same sense of a hammer and saws, they indeed are tools in the contribution they make to completion of a homebuilt airplane. They are drawings which present a picture of parts and assemblies from one or more viewpoints. Like a written language, mechanical drawings are only useful if the viewer can read them. RV drawings have been prepared using a blend of accepted mechanical drawing practices and presentations which we feel can be most easily understood by the average homebuilder. The individual drawings of the respective views show what can be seen from that viewpoint plus all hidden lines and features. Looking at the front view shows the presence of hidden lines which can only be clarified by the addition of one or more views. The side view provides enough information to fully understand the shape of the part. The top view provides yet more clarification.

Dimensions: Holes and radius parts are dimensioned from the center of the hole or from the center point of the arc describing the rounded surface. Thus, the overall height of the part is the base to radius center plus the arc radius. The overall height dimension is not usually given, but if it is, would be listed as a reference dimension because the other is primary.

3 1 1/2 R1/8

Ø1/4

1 1/8

Ø1 1/8 Ø1 3/4

FIGURE 4: DIMENSIONED PART

Since a mechanical drawing is composed mostly of lines of one form or another, we must define them. Following is a description of some symbols and lines used. Solid Line: Represents a surface or an edge which is visible to the viewer. Hidden Line: Is a uniform line of short dashes representing an edge or surface which cannot be seen by the viewer but is important to present in the drawing. Phantom Line: A line of interspaced long and short dashes shows the position that another part will occupy at another state of construction or assembly. It is used to make the builder aware of the relationship of other parts of the structure, without the clutter of an assembly drawing.

TOP

TOP

PLANS PAGE TEMPLATE SCALING Some plans pages contain templates that are printed at a scale of 1:1. Double check that a plans page is scaled correctly by measuring the border before using the template! A properly scaled border is shown in Figure 5.

ISOMETRIC VIEW

Bend Line: Indicates the line about which a bend is to be made. Section Line: This is used to indicate a view of a part which could be seen if the part were cut in two and viewed from the direction of arrows at end of the line. The letters correspond to the view located elsewhere on the drawing.

FRONT SIDE 10 5/16 SIDE

FRONT

FIGURE 1: ORTHO VIEWS PAGE

XX-XX RV-12

REVISION:

0

DATE: 02/22/10

16

FIGURE 5: BORDER DIMENSIONS

PAGE

03-04

FIGURE 2: DRILLED HOLE

FIGURE 3: DRILLED AND THREADED HOLE

(NOTE THE POINTED TIP)

(NOTE DOUBLE LINE SEGMENT INDICATING DEPTH OF THREAD)

RV-12

REVISION:

2

DATE: 02/22/10

SECTION 4: RV-12 PARTS INDEX NOMENCLATURE

SUB-KIT SECT# PAGE# PART TYPE:

2A0R570EN-V

PART NUMBER

COMPOSITE PROP-12

POWERPLANT

47

3

MANUFACTURED

MAKE FROM MATERIAL: N/A

BUSHING AL .376 X .528 X 1.9

PART NUMBER

ENGINE MOUNT BUSHING

NOMENCLATURE

SUB-KIT POWERPLANT

SECT# PAGE# PART TYPE: 46

10

MANUFACTURED

2024-T351 ALUMINUM

MAKE FROM MATERIAL:

A-1201A-L

INBD NOSE SKIN

FLAPERON

18

6

MANUFACTURED

.016 2024-T3 ALCLAD SHEET

BUSHING BS .245 X .375 X 2

BRASS BUSHING

FINISH

32

5

MANUFACTURED

.065X.375 BRASS TUBE

A-1201A-R

INBD NOSE SKIN

FLAPERON

18

6

MANUFACTURED


C-1201

CANOPY

FINISH

34

5

MANUFACTURED

.150 ACRYLIC SHEET

A-1201B-L

MIDDLE NOSE SKIN

FLAPERON

18

6

MANUFACTURED


C-1202

CANOPY SKIRT

FINISH

34

6

MANUFACTURED


A-1201B-R

MIDDLE NOSE SKIN

FLAPERON

18

6

MANUFACTURED


C-1203A

CANOPY ATTACH ANGLE

FINISH

34

2

MANUFACTURED


A-1201C-L

OUTBD NOSE SKIN

FLAPERON

18

3

MANUFACTURED


C-1203B

CANOPY ATTACH ANGLE

FINISH

34

2

MANUFACTURED


A-1201C-R

OUTBD NOSE SKIN

FLAPERON

18

3

MANUFACTURED


C-1204

GAS STRUT BUSHING

FINISH

34

2

MANUFACTURED

.500 2024-T3 OR 6061-T6 ROUND

A-1202A-L

INBD FLAPERON SKIN

FLAPERON

18

6

MANUFACTURED


C-1205

LATCH BLOCK

FINISH

34

10

MANUFACTURED

.750 UHMW SHEET

A-1202A-R

INBD FLAPERON SKIN

FLAPERON

18

6

MANUFACTURED


C-1206

GUIDE PLATE

FINISH

34

8

MANUFACTURED


A-1202B

OUTBD FLAPERON SKIN

FLAPERON

18

6

MANUFACTURED


C-1207

GUIDE BLOCK

FINISH

34

8

MANUFACTURED

.750 UHMW SHEET

A-1203

SPAR

FLAPERON

18

3

MANUFACTURED


C-1208

CANOPY FOAM

FINISH

34

13

MANUFACTURED

POLYURETHANE FOAM 10 LB / FT^3

A-1204-L

OUTBD NOSE RIB

FLAPERON

18

2

MANUFACTURED


C-1210

LIFT HANDLE

FINISH

34

9

MATERIAL

.063X3/4X3/4 6061-T6 EXTRUSION

A-1204-R

OUTBD NOSE RIB

FLAPERON

18

2

MANUFACTURED


C-1211

ALIGN BLOCK

FINISH

34

3

MANUFACTURED

WOOD

A-1205

MAIN RIB

FLAPERON

18

5

MANUFACTURED


C-1212

GUIDE BLOCK

FINISH

34

12

MATERIAL

PS UHMW-750X1/2X2

A-1206

PIVOT BRACKET

FLAPERON

18

2

MATERIAL

AEX TIE-DOWN

C-1214

LATCH BLOCK

FINISH

34

11

MATERIAL

PS UHMW-125X1/2X2

A-1207-L

ACTUATION BRACKET

FLAPERON

18

2

MATERIAL

.125X1 1/2X2 6061-T6 EXTRUSION

C-1215

LATCH HANDLE STOP

FINISH

34

2

MANUFACTURED


A-1207-R

ACTUATION BRACKET

FLAPERON

18

2

MATERIAL

.125X1 1/2X2 6061-T6 EXTRUSION

C-1216

GAS STRUT

FINISH

34

2

MANUFACTURED

N/A

A-1208

BRACKET

FLAPERON

18

4

MANUFACTURED


C-656

CANOPY HANDLE

FINISH

34

7

MANUFACTURED

3/4 X 3/4 6061-T6 BAR

A-1210-L

INBD NOSE RIB

FLAPERON

18

2

MANUFACTURED


C-671

PLASTIC WASHER

FINISH

34

10

MANUFACTURED

N/A

A-1210-R

INBD NOSE RIB

FLAPERON

18

2

MANUFACTURED


CA SEAT SET-12

SEAT BACK & BOTTOM CUSHIONS

FINISH

33

4

MANUFACTURED

N/A

A-1211

PIVOT GUIDE

FINISH

30

4

MANUFACTURED

1.00 DELRIN ROUND

CAV-110

FUEL TANK QUICK DRAIN

FUSE

28

5

MANUFACTURED

N/A

A-909

AILERON COUNTERBALANCE

FLAPERON

18

3

MATERIAL

.065X1 3/8 304 STAINLESS TUBE

COWL 12 BOTTOM

BOTTOM COWL

FINISH

38

2

MANUFACTURED

E-GLASS / EPOXY

AN490HT11P-SDM 0.634

ROD END

FINISH

32

6

MANUFACTURED

N/A

COWL 12 COOLING DUCT

AIR DUCT

POWERPLANT

49

10

MANUFACTURED

E-GLASS / EPOXY

AN737TWT-24

HOSE CLAMP 3/4

FUSE

28

6

MANUFACTURED

N/A

COWL 12 DUCT INTERFACE

COWL DUCT INTERFACE

POWERPLANT

49

11

MANUFACTURED

E-GLASS / EPOXY

AV 127SNI135 (396, 496 ONLY)

GROUND LOOP FILTER

GARMIN X96

42

13

MANUFACTURED

N/A

COWL 12 DUCT SEAL A

COWL DUCT SEAL

POWERPLANT

49

13

MATERIAL

RUBBER P SEAL

AV AV-17

COM ANTENNA

AVIONICS

42

10

MANUFACTURED

N/A

COWL 12 DUCT SEAL B

COWL DUCT SEAL

POWERPLANT

49

13

MATERIAL

RUBEER P SEAL

AV AV-22

TRANSPONDER ANTENNA

AVIONICS

42

10

MANUFACTURED

N/A

COWL 12 DUCT SEAL C

COWL DUCT SEAL

POWERPLANT

49

13

MATERIAL

RUBBER P SEAL

AV FC-403-12

PANEL MT ST INTERCOM RV-12 UNIQUE

FLIGHTCOM 403 42

14

MANUFACTURED

N/A

COWL 12 GUIDE

OIL COOLER GUIDE

POWERPLANT

49

10

MANUFACTURED

DELRIN

AV GARMIN 296, 396 OR 496

GPS

GARMIN X96

42

14

MANUFACTURED

N/A

COWL 12 OIL DOOR

OIL DOOR

FINISH

38

7

MANUFACTURED

.040 2024-T3 ALCLAD

AV GARMIN GTX327

DIGITAL TRANSPONDER

GARMIN COM-TX 42

6

MANUFACTURED

N/A

COWL 12 TOP

TOP COWL

FINISH

38

2

MANUFACTURED

E-GLASS / EPOXY

AV GARMIN GTX328

DIGITAL MODE S TRANSPONDER

GTX328

42

7

MANUFACTURED

N/A

COWL HINGE PIN-LEFT

SIDE HINGE PIN

FINISH

38

3

MANUFACTURED

SSP-090X6';COWL-10-04

AV GARMIN SL-40

COM RADIO

GARMIN COM-TX 42

9

MANUFACTURED

N/A

COWL HINGE PIN-RIGHT

SIDE HINGE PIN

FINISH

38

3

MANUFACTURED

SSP-090X6';COWL-10-04

AV ME406-12

406 MHZ ELT

AVIONICS

42

16

MANUFACTURED

N/A

COWL-00100

HEAT SHIELD

POWERPLANT

49

12

BRAKE MAST CYL LEFT-1

LEFT BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER

FUSE

27

2

MANUFACTURED

N/A

CT A-740 BLACK

PUSH PULL CABLE

POWERPLANT

49

BRAKE MAST CYL RIGHT-1

RIGHT BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER

FUSE

27

2

MANUFACTURED

N/A

CT CHOKE CABLE-12

ROTAX CARB CHOKE CABLE

POWERPLANT

BUSHING AL .197 X .313 X .968

ALUMINUM BUSHING

FINISH

32

13

MANUFACTURED

N/A

CT THROTTLE CABLE-12

ROTAX CARB THROTTLE CABLE

POWERPLANT

BUSHING AL .197 X .313 X .968 (FIN)

ALUMINUM BUSHING

FINISH

32

2

MANUFACTURED

.058X5/16 6061-T6 TUBE

DOC 12 8130-15

BUSHING AL .197 X .313 X .968 (PP)

ALUMINUM BUSHING

POWERPLANT

46

3

MANUFACTURED

.058X5/16 6061-T6 TUBE

DOC 12 FTS

BUSHING AL .197 X .313 X 1.954

ALUMINUM BUSHING

FUSE

21

9

MANUFACTURED

.058X3/8 6061-T6 TUBE

BUSHING AL .252X.3125X.125

ALUMINUM BUSHING

FINISH

33

2

MANUFACTURED

BUSHING AL .252X.3125X.202

ALUMINUM BUSHING

FINISH

33

3

BUSHING AL .259 X .375 X .375

ALUMINUM BUSHING

FINISH

34

BUSHING AL .259 X .375 X 1.25

ALUMINUM BUSHING

FUSE

21

BUSHING AL .259 X .375 X 1.538

ALUMINUM BUSHING

FUSE

21

MATERIAL

EA EXHST/COWL SHIELD

7

MANUFACTURED

N/A

50

2

MANUFACTURED

N/A

50

2

MANUFACTURED

N/A

MFGR'S LSA STATEMENT OF COMPLIANCE CERTIFICATION

MANUFACTURED

8.5X11,3 HOLE PUNCH LFT SIDE

RV-12 FLIGHT TRAINING SUPPLEMENT

CERTIFICATION

MANUFACTURED

8.5X11,3 HOLE PUNCH LFT SIDE, DUPLEX, S

DOC 12 MM

RV-12 MAINTENANCE MANUAL

CERTIFICATION

MANUFACTURED


.058X5/16 6061-T6 TUBE

DOC 12 PAP

RV-12 PROD. ACCEPTANCE PROCEDURES CERTIFICATION

MANUFACTURED


MANUFACTURED

.058X5/16 6061-T6 TUBE

DOC 12 POH

RV-12 PILOT OPERATING HANDBOOK

CERTIFICATION

MANUFACTURED

8.5 X 11, TRIMMED TO 5.125 X 7 & SIX HOLE

3

MANUFACTURED

.058X3/8 6061-T6 TUBE

DOOR HINGE

HINGE X 6"

FUSE

29

6

MATERIAL

AN257-P3

4

MANUFACTURED

.058X3/8 6061-T6 TUBE

EA 22002-15

BARRY ENGINE MOUNT ISOLATOR

POWERPLANT

46

10

MANUFACTURED

N/A

4

MANUFACTURED

.058X3/8 6061-T6 TUBE

EA DYNON SENSOR KIT - R912 CARB

DYNON ENGINE SENSOR KIT

POWERPLANT

45

2

MANUFACTURED

N/A

Page 1 of 7

1/19/2011

PART NUMBER

NOMENCLATURE


EA EXH 12

EXHAUST SYSTEM

POWERPLANT

48

2

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1201R

ANTENNA SHELF

FUSE

29

2

MANUFACTURED


EA ROTAX 912 ULS 2

ROTAX ENGINE PACKAGE

POWERPLANT

46

2

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1201S

BATTERY CHANNEL

POWERPLANT

45

2

MANUFACTURED


EA RV-12 RADIATOR

EGW HEAT EXCHANGER

POWERPLANT

49

4

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1201U

FIREWALL SPACER

FUSE

22

2

MATERIAL

.020 2024-T3 ALCLAD SHEET 17/32X1 1/2

ES 205203-3

9 PIN D-SUB FEMALE

FINISH

31

12

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1201V

COOLANT BOTTLE STRAP

POWERPLANT

49

5

MANUFACTURED

.032 2024-T3 ALCLAD

ES 24115

MASTER RELAY

POWERPLANT

45

2

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1201W

FIREWALL SPACER

FUSE

23

8

MATERIAL

.020 2024-T3 ALCLAD SHEET 17/32 X 10

ES 25 PIN BSHELL

25 PIN D-SUB BACKSHELL

FINISH

31

7

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1201Z

RETAINING PLATE

AVIONICS

42

11

MANUFACTURED


ES 25 PIN BSHELL (AVIONICS)


AV-D180

42

5

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1202A-1

INSTRUMENT PANEL

FUSE

29

7

MANUFACTURED


ES 25 PIN BSHELL (POWERPLANT)


POWERPLANT

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1202B

PANEL BASE

FUSE

29

3

MANUFACTURED


ES 313005

5 AMP FUSE

POWERPLANT

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1202D

PANEL ATTACH STRIP

FUSE

29

4

MANUFACTURED


ES 37 PIN BSHELL


FINISH

31

14

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1202E-L

BULKHEAD SIDE CHANNEL

FUSE

23

4

MANUFACTURED




AV-D180

42

5

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1202E-R


FUSE

23

4

MANUFACTURED


ES 40105

FUEL PUMP

FUSE

28

2

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1202F

BULKHEAD

FUSE

21

14

MANUFACTURED


ES 5329517

RIGHT ANGLE 50 OHM BNC JACK-PLUG

GTX328

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1202H-L

CANOPY RIB

FUSE

29

4

MANUFACTURED


ES 9 PIN BACKSHELL 2


AV-D180

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1202H-R

CANOPY RIB

FUSE

29

4

MANUFACTURED




AV-D180

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1202J

INST STACK ANGLE

FUSE

29

3

MANUFACTURED


ES AS212

12V POWER OUTLET

FINISH

31

10

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1202K

INST STACK SUPPORT

FUSE

29

3

MANUFACTURED


ES CPU FAN

12V 80X80X25 40CFM

FINISH

31

4

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1202L

GUSSET

FUSE

23

6

MANUFACTURED


ES DIODE MASTER

MASTER RELAY DIODE

POWERPLANT

45

7

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1202M

CANOPY ATTACH DOUBLER

FUSE

29

3

MANUFACTURED


ES E22-50K

MICRO SWITCH

WING

16

2

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1202N-L

FWD SKIN STIFFENER

FUSE

29

3

MANUFACTURED


ES HST 3/16 X 2"

HEAT SHRINK

FINISH

31

12

MATERIAL

HEAT SHRINK 3/16

F-1202N-R

FWD SKIN STIFFENER

FUSE

29

3

MANUFACTURED


ES HST-3/32X1'

HEAT SHRINK

AV-D180

42

16

MATERIAL

HEAT SHRINK 3/32

F-1202S

GPS MOUNT BRACKET

GARMIN X96

42

12

MANUFACTURED


ES MSTS-T3-7A-2

PITCH TRIM SERVO

TAILCONE

11

6

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1202T

INST PANEL LEFT D-180

FUSE

29

7

MANUFACTURED


ES PC680

ODYSSEY BATTERY

POWERPLANT

45

2

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1202U

INST PANEL RIGHT MAPBOX

FUSE

29

6

MANUFACTURED


ES RS 279-374

PHONE CABLE

FINISH

31

3

MANUFACTURED

PHONE CABLE 12 FT

F-1202Y

STRUT ATTACH ANGLE

FUSE

29

4

MATERIAL

.125X1X1 6061-T6 EXTRUSION

ES ZC-210B

IN-LINE FUSE HOLDER

POWERPLANT

45

3

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1203A

BULKHEAD

FUSE

21

10

MANUFACTURED


F 1/4 PIPE PLUG

ALLEN HD PIPE PLUG

FUSE

28

5

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1203B

BULKHEAD FLANGE

FUSE

21

10

MANUFACTURED


F 1/8 PIPE PLUG BRASS

1/8 BRASS PIPE PLUG

FUSE

28

5

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1203C

STUB SPAR RECEPTACLE

FUSE

21

10

MANUFACTURED

.190 2024-T3 BARE SHEET

F-00001

CABLE SPACER

POWERPLANT

50

3

MATERIAL

EA HOSE H151

F-1203D

STUB SPAR RECEPTACLE SUPPORT

FUSE

21

10

MANUFACTURED


F-1017C

SEAT BELT ATTACH LUG

FUSE

21

4

MANUFACTURED


F-1203E

BULKHEAD DOUBLER

FUSE

21

11

MANUFACTURED


F-1048F

FACET PUMP BRACKET

FUSE

21

19

MANUFACTURED


F-1203G-L


FUSE

23

4

MANUFACTURED


F-1086

VENT BRACKET

FUSE

23

7

MANUFACTURED


F-1203G-R


FUSE

23

4

MANUFACTURED


F-1087

VENT SLIDE

FUSE

23

7

MANUFACTURED


F-1203H

ARM REST BRACKET

FUSE

23

4

MANUFACTURED


F-1092

VENT DOOR DOUBLER

FUSE

23

7

MANUFACTURED


F-1203J

BULKHEAD DOUBLER

FUSE

21

12

MANUFACTURED


F-1093

VENT DOOR

FUSE

23

7

MANUFACTURED


F-1204

CENTER SECTION ASSEMBLY

FUSE

20

2

MANUFACTURED

6061-T6| 2024-T3| BRONZE

F-1096

VENT DOUBLER

FUSE

23

7

MANUFACTURED


F-1204CL-L

FWD BULKHEAD SIDE ASSEMBLY

FUSE

21

9

MANUFACTURED


F-1200

INTERIOR LABEL SHEET

CERTIFICATION 51

2

MANUFACTURED

.003 ANODIZED ALUMINUM

F-1204CL-R

FWD BULKHEAD SIDE ASSEMBLY

FUSE

20

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1200B BLACK

FUEL PLACARD BLACK

CERTIFICATION 51

6

MANUFACTURED

VINYL

F-1204D

CENTER SECTION AFT BULKHEAD

FUSE

20

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1200B WHITE

FUEL PLACARD WHITE

CERTIFICATION 51

6

MANUFACTURED

VINYL

F-1204F-L

AFT SIDE BULKHEAD

FUSE

20

4

MANUFACTURED


F-1201A

FIREWALL UPPER

FUSE

29

2

MANUFACTURED

.0179 304 STAINLESS SHEET

F-1204F-R

AFT SIDE BULKHEAD

FUSE

20

4

MANUFACTURED


F-1201B

FIREWALL SHELF

FUSE

22

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1204H

BULKHEAD CAP

FUSE

21

9

MANUFACTURED


F-1201C

FIREWALL BOTTOM

FUSE

22

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1204M

ROLLER

FUSE

21

9

MANUFACTURED

DELRIN OR NYLON

F-1201D

BATTERY SPACER

POWERPLANT

45

2

MATERIAL

.058X5/16 6061-T6 TUBE

F-1204P

SKIN ATTACH FLANGE

FUSE

20

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1201E-L

OIL TANK SIDE BRACKET

FUSE

29

5

MANUFACTURED


F-1204R

RETAINER BLOCK

FUSE

20

2

MANUFACTURED

.750 UHMW SHEET

F-1201E-R

OIL TANK SIDE BRACKET

FUSE

29

5

MANUFACTURED


F-1204T

SKIN STIFFENER

FUSE

20

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1201F

BATTERY MOUNT BRACE

FUSE

29

5

MANUFACTURED


F-1204Y

WIRE RUN CONDUIT

FINISH

31

3

MATERIAL

DUCT NT5/8

F-1201G

OIL RESERVOIR BRACE

FUSE

29

5

MANUFACTURED


F-1204Z

BOTTOM STIFFENER

FUSE

21

15

MANUFACTURED


F-1201H

UPPER FWD FUSE DOUBLER

FUSE

29

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1205A

MID-FUSE BRACE

FUSE

23

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1201J

UPPER COWL HINGE

FUSE

29

2

MATERIAL

AN257-P3

F-1205B

ROLL BAR ATTACH PLATE

FUSE

23

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1201K

UPPER COWL HINGE

FUSE

29

2

MATERIAL

AN257-P3

F-1205C

MID-FUSE BRACE CLOSE-OUT

FUSE

23

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1201L

BRACKET

FUSE

22

3

MATERIAL


F-1205G

ELT BRACKET

AVIONICS

42

15

MANUFACTURED

.063 2024-T3 ALCLAD

F-1201P

FIREWALL SPACER

FUSE

29

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1206A

BULKHEAD

FUSE

21

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1201Q

BATTERY MOUNT ANGLE

FUSE

29

4

MANUFACTURED


F-1206B

REAR SPAR RECEPTACLE SUPPORT

FUSE

21

2

MANUFACTURED


42

18

MAKE FROM MATERIAL:

Page 2 of 7

PART NUMBER

1/19/2011

NOMENCLATURE

SUB-KIT

SECT# PAGE# PART TYPE:

MAKE FROM MATERIAL:

PART NUMBER

NOMENCLATURE


MAKE FROM MATERIAL:

F-1206C

REAR SPAR RECEPTACLE

FUSE

21

2

MANUFACTURED

.190 2024-T3 BARE OR ALCLAD SHEET

F-1213-R

STEP FLOOR

FUSE

21

18

MANUFACTURED


F-1206D

BEARING BRACKET

FUSE

21

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1214

STEP FLOOR COVER

FINISH

33

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1206E

BAGGAGE COVER

FINISH

33

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1215-L

SEAT RIB

FUSE

21

4

MANUFACTURED


F-1206F

BEARING BRACKET BRACE

FUSE

21

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1215-R

SEAT RIB

FUSE

21

4

MANUFACTURED


F-1206G-L

BAGGAGE RIB

FUSE

21

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1216

SEAT BELT ATTACH LUG SUPPORT

FUSE

21

4

MANUFACTURED


F-1206G-R

BAGGAGE RIB

FUSE

21

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1217A-L

TUNNEL RIB

FUSE

22

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1206H-L

BAGGAGE RIB

FUSE

21

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1217A-R

TUNNEL RIB

FUSE

22

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1206H-R

BAGGAGE RIB

FUSE

21

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1217B

RUDDER PEDAL ACCESS COVER

FINISH

33

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1207A

BAGGAGE BULKHEAD

FUSE

24

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1218

FLAPERON MIXER BRACKET

FUSE

21

4

MANUFACTURED


F-1207B

BAGGAGE BULKHEAD

FUSE

21

19

MANUFACTURED


F-1219

FLAPERON MIXER ARM

FUSE

21

4

MANUFACTURED


F-1207C

BAGGAGE BULKHEAD

FUSE

24

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1220A

FORWARD INTERCOSTAL

FUSE

21

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1207D-L

BAGGAGE BULKHEAD CHANNEL

FUSE

24

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1220B

AFT INTERCOSTAL

FUSE

21

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1207D-R

BAGGAGE BULKHEAD CHANNEL

FUSE

24

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1221-L

BAGGAGE RIB

FUSE

21

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1207E

SHOULDER STRAP LUG

FUSE

25

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1221-R

BAGGAGE RIB

FUSE

21

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1207F

BAGGAGE BULKHEAD CORRUGATION

FINISH

33

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1222-L

BAGGAGE RIB

FUSE

21

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1207J

ATTACH ANGLE

FUSE

24

4

MANUFACTURED


F-1222-R

BAGGAGE RIB

FUSE

21

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1207K

BRACE ANGLE

FUSE

24

5

MANUFACTURED


F-1223-L

BAGGAGE RIB

FUSE

21

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1208A

WEAR PLATE

TAILCONE

10

2

MANUFACTURED

.125 UHMW SHEET

F-1223-R

BAGGAGE RIB

FUSE

21

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1208B-L

MAG BRACKET

AV-D180

42

18

MANUFACTURED


F-1224-L

BAGGAGE FLOOR

FUSE

21

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1208B-R

MAG BRACKET

AV-D180

42

18

MANUFACTURED


F-1224-R

BAGGAGE FLOOR

FUSE

21

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1208-L

FUSELAGE FRAME

TAILCONE

10

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1225-L

SEAT FLOOR

FUSE

21

7

MANUFACTURED


F-1208-R

FUSELAGE FRAME

TAILCONE

10

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1225-R

SEAT FLOOR

FUSE

21

7

MANUFACTURED


F-1209-L

FUSELAGE FRAME

TAILCONE

10

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1226-L

SEAT RAMP FLOOR

FUSE

21

13

MANUFACTURED


F-1209-R

FUSELAGE FRAME

TAILCONE

10

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1226-R

SEAT RAMP FLOOR

FUSE

21

13

MANUFACTURED


F-12106

V-STAB SKIN RIB

TAILCONE

10

10

MANUFACTURED


F-1227

SEAT RAMP COVER

FINISH

33

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1210A-L

FUSELAGE FRAME

TAILCONE

10

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1228

SEAT FLOOR COVER

FINISH

33

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1210A-R

FUSELAGE FRAME

TAILCONE

10

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1229

BAGGAGE FLOOR COVER

FINISH

33

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1210B

PLATE

TAILCONE

10

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1230

TUNNEL COVER

FINISH

33

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1210C

ANGLE

TAILCONE

10

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1231A-AL

ROLL BAR FRAME

FUSE

24

2

MANUFACTURED

.063 6061-T6 SHEET

F-12114

CABLE-SHOULDER HARNESS

FINISH

33

3

MANUFACTURED

5/32" 7 X 19 GALVANIZED CABLE

F-1231A-AR

ROLL BAR FRAME

FUSE

24

2

MANUFACTURED

.063 6061-T6 SHEET

F-12115

SIDE HINGE

FINISH

38

3

MATERIAL

AN257-P3

F-1231A-FL

ROLL BAR FRAME

FUSE

24

2

MANUFACTURED

.063 6061-T6 SHEET

F-12116

MID COWL HINGE

FUSE

29

2

MATERIAL

AN257-P3

F-1231A-FR

ROLL BAR FRAME

FUSE

24

2

MANUFACTURED

.063 6061-T6 SHEET

F-12117

LWR COWL HINGE

FUSE

23

8

MATERIAL

AN257-P3

F-1231B

OUTBOARD ROLL BAR STRAP

FUSE

24

2

MANUFACTURED


F-12118

COWL ATTACH PLATE

FUSE

22

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1231C

INBOARD ROLL BAR STRAP

FUSE

24

2

MANUFACTURED


F-12119

TREAD KIT

FINISH

33

4

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1231D

ROLL BAR BASE

FUSE

24

2

MANUFACTURED

6061-T6 EXTRUSION

F-1211A

AFT BULKHEAD

TAILCONE

10

4

MANUFACTURED


F-1231E

ROLL BAR SPLICE PLATE

FUSE

24

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1211B

DOUBLER

TAILCONE

10

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1231F

LATCH PLATE

FUSE

24

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1211C

HINGE BRACKET

TAILCONE

10

3

MANUFACTURED


F-12328-L

BRACKET

GTX328

42

7

MANUFACTURED

.040 2024-T3 ALCAD

F-1211D

ATTACH BRACKET

TAILCONE

10

3

MANUFACTURED


F-12328-R

BRACKET

GTX328

42

7

MANUFACTURED

.040 2024-T3 ALCLAD

F-1211G

TAIL SKID BRACKET

TAILCONE

10

3

MANUFACTURED

AEX TIE DOWN 6061-T6

F-1232A

ROLL BAR BRACE

FUSE

24

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1211G-DT

DRILL TEMPLATE

TAILCONE

10

3

MANUFACTURED

.020 MIN. 2024-T3 OR 6061-T6

F-1232B

ROLL BAR BRACE BRACKET

FUSE

24

2

MANUFACTURED


F-12121

STANDOFF

GARMIN X96

42

12

MATERIAL

.058X5/16 6061-T6 TUBE

F-1233A

CONTROL COLUMN MOUNT SPACER

FUSE

21

10

MANUFACTURED


F-12122

ELT BRACKET

FINISH

31

15

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1233B-L

CONTROL COLUMN MOUNT BRACKET

FUSE

21

10

MANUFACTURED


F-12123A

FUSE HOLDER

AVIONICS

42

3

MANUFACTURED

WHITE DELRIN

F-1233B-R

CONTROL COLUMN MOUNT BRACKET

FUSE

21

10

MANUFACTURED


F-12123B

DOUBLE SIDED VELCRO TAPE

AVIONICS

42

3

MATERIAL

VELCRO TAPE 3/4" OR 1" WIDE

F-1234-L

CANOPY DECK

FUSE

23

4

MANUFACTURED


F-12123C

FUSE HOLDER LABEL

AV-D180

42

3

MANUFACTURED

N/A

F-1234-R

CANOPY DECK

FUSE

23

4

MANUFACTURED


F-12125

OVER RUDDER WIREWAY

FINISH

31

13

MANUFACTURED


F-1235A

INBD RUDDER PEDAL BLOCK

FUSE

27

2

MANUFACTURED

.750 UHMW SHEET

F-12125B

WIREWAY FOAM STRIPS

FINISH

31

13

MATERIAL

FOAM 1/16 X 1/4 V1110

F-1235B

OUTBD RUDDER PEDAL BLOCK

FUSE

27

2

MANUFACTURED

.750 UHMW SHEET

F-12125C

WIREWAY BRACKET

FINISH

31

13

MANUFACTURED


F-1236

STEP ATTACHMENT ANGLE

FUSE

21

17

MANUFACTURED

.125 X1X1.25 6061-T6 EXTRUSION

F-1212-L

STEP RIB

FUSE

21

14

MANUFACTURED


F-1237A

SEATBACK

FUSE

26

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1212-R

STEP RIB

FUSE

21

14

MANUFACTURED


F-1237BD

SEATBACK ANGLE

FUSE

26

2

MANUFACTURED

.063 6061-T6 SHEET

F-1213-L

STEP FLOOR

FUSE

21

18

MANUFACTURED


F-1237C-L

SEATBACK ANGLE

FUSE

26

2

MANUFACTURED

.125 6061-T6 SHEET

Page 3 of 7

PART NUMBER

1/19/2011

NOMENCLATURE

SUB-KIT


MAKE FROM MATERIAL:

PART NUMBER

NOMENCLATURE


MAKE FROM MATERIAL:

F-1237C-R

SEATBACK ANGLE

FUSE

26

2

MANUFACTURED

.125 6061-T6 SHEET

F-1270B

FUSELAGE SIDE COVER

FINISH

31

2

MANUFACTURED

F-1237E

SEATBACK HINGE

FUSE

21

6

MATERIAL

AN257-P3

F-1270C

TERMINAL BLOCK

FINISH

31

2

MATERIAL

PS UHMW SHEET .125X2X2 1/4

F-1237F

SEATBACK BRACE HINGE

FUSE

26

2

MATERIAL

AN257-P2

F-1271-L

FWD FUSE CORNER SKIN

FUSE

22

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1237G

SEATBACK BRACE

FUSE

26

2

MANUFACTURED

.040 6061-T6 SHEET

F-1271-R

FWD FUSE CORNER SKIN

FUSE

22

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1237H

SEATBACK HINGE

FUSE

26

2

MATERIAL

AN257-P3

F-1272

FWD FUSE FLOOR SKIN

FUSE

22

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1238

SNAP BUSHING BRACKET

TAILCONE

10

9

MANUFACTURED


F-1273-L

BAGGAGE CORNER SKIN

FUSE

25

4

MANUFACTURED


F-1239

RUDDER CABLE

FINISH

32

11

MANUFACTURED

1/8 7X19 GALVANIZED CABLE

F-1273-R

BAGGAGE CORNER SKIN

FUSE

25

4

MANUFACTURED


F-1240

UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE SKIN

FUSE

29

5

MANUFACTURED


F-1274-L

FUSELAGE CORNER SKIN

FUSE

21

15

MANUFACTURED


F-1240B

COVER PLATE

FUSE

29

5

MANUFACTURED


F-1274-R


FUSE

21

15

MANUFACTURED


F-1240C

CLIP

FUSE

29

5

MATERIAL

.025 2024-T3 ALCLAD SHEET .500X1.685

F-1275A


FUSE

21

15

MANUFACTURED


F-1247A

FWD STABILATOR CABLE

FINISH

32

13

MANUFACTURED


F-1275B


FUSE

21

15

MANUFACTURED


F-1247B

AFT STABILATOR CABLE

FINISH

32

13

MANUFACTURED


F-1275C


FUSE

21

15

MANUFACTURED


F-1248B

FUSELAGE PIN LATCH

FUSE

23

4

MANUFACTURED


F-1275D


FUSE

21

15

MANUFACTURED


F-1248-L

ARM REST

FUSE

23

4

MANUFACTURED


F-1275E


FUSE

21

15

MANUFACTURED


F-1248-R

ARM REST

FUSE

23

4

MANUFACTURED


F-1275F


FUSE

21

15

MANUFACTURED


F-1250

PULLEY BRACKET

FUSE

21

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1275G

COVER PLATE

FINISH

35

6

MANUFACTURED


F-1251

NUTPLATE BRACKET

FUSE

21

17

MANUFACTURED


F-1276

BOTTOM SKIN

FUSE

21

16

MANUFACTURED

.025 2024-T3 ALCALD SHEET

F-1252

FLAPERON STOP

FUSE

21

5

MANUFACTURED


F-1276B

COVER PLATE

FINISH

35

5

MANUFACTURED


F-1253

SEAT FLOOR SUPPORT

FUSE

21

7

MANUFACTURED


F-1276C

SYSTEMS BLOCK

FUSE

28

4

MANUFACTURED

.250 UHMW SHEET

F-1254-L

SUPPORT FRAME

FUSE

24

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1277A

AFT WINDOW

FUSE

25

5

MANUFACTURED

.125 LEXAN MARGUARD MR5000 SHEET

F-1254-R

SUPPORT FRAME

FUSE

24

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1277-L

FWD TURTLE DECK SKIN

FUSE

25

5

MANUFACTURED


F-1255-L

LONGERON

FUSE

23

2

MATERIAL


F-1277-R

FWD TURTLE DECK SKIN

FUSE

25

5

MANUFACTURED


F-1255-R

LONGERON

FUSE

23

2

MATERIAL


F-1278

TOP SKIN

TAILCONE

10

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1256

SKIN STIFFENER

FUSE

23

6

MANUFACTURED


F-1279-L

UPPER LEFT SKIN

TAILCONE

10

9

MANUFACTURED


F-1257

RUDDER PEDAL SUPPORT CHANNEL

FUSE

22

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1279-R

UPPER RIGHT SKIN

TAILCONE

10

9

MANUFACTURED


F-1257B

BATTERY ANTI-CHAFE STRIPS

POWERPLANT

45

2

MATERIAL

MS21266-1N

F-1280-L

LEFT SIDE SKIN

TAILCONE

10

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1258

RUDDER CABLE LINK

FINISH

32

10

MANUFACTURED

.050 4130 STEEL SHEET

F-1280-R

RIGHT SIDE SKIN

TAILCONE

10

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1259A

FUEL VALVE BRACKET

FUSE

28

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1281-L

LOWER LEFT SKIN

TAILCONE

10

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1259B

FUEL VALVE BRACKET CLIP

FUSE

28

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1281-R

LOWER RIGHT SKIN

TAILCONE

10

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1259C

FUEL LINE FLOSCAN - FWALL

FUSE

28

5

MATERIAL

.035X3/8 3003 TUBE

F-1282-L

BOTTOM LEFT SKIN

TAILCONE

10

6

MANUFACTURED


F-1259D

FUEL LINE VALVE-FLOSCAN

FUSE

28

5

MATERIAL

.035X3/8 3003 TUBE

F-1282-R

BOTTOM RIGHT SKIN

TAILCONE

10

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1259E

FUEL LINE PUMP - VALVE

FUSE

28

4

MATERIAL

.035X3/8 3003 TUBE

F-1283

J-STIFFENER

TAILCONE

10

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1259F

FUEL LINE TANK - PUMP

FUSE

28

3

MATERIAL

.035X3/8 3003 TUBE

F-1284

SHEAR CLIP

TAILCONE

10

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1259G

FUEL VALVE BRACKET HANDLE

FUSE

28

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1285

COWL BOTTOM CLOSE-OUT

FINISH

38

9

MANUFACTURED


F-1259H

FUEL RETURN LINE AFT

FUSE

28

6

MATERIAL

.032X1/4 3003 TUBE

F-1285B-1

COWL CLOSE-OUT BRACKET

FINISH

38

9

MANUFACTURED

304-18GA STAINLESS SHEET

F-1259K

PADS

FUSE

28

6

MATERIAL

EA HOSE H175

F-1287A

SERVO TRAY

TAILCONE

11

5

MANUFACTURED


F-1259M

FUEL RETURN LINE FWD

FUSE

28

6

MATERIAL

.032X1/4 3003 TUBE

F-1287B

DOUBLER

TAILCONE

11

5

MANUFACTURED


F-1260A

FLAP HANDLE TUBE

FINISH

32

7

MATERIAL

.035X7/16 6061-T6 TUBE

F-1287C

LINK

TAILCONE

11

6

MANUFACTURED


F-1260B

FLAP HANDLE FORK

FINISH

32

7

MANUFACTURED


F-1287D

CLEVIS BRACKET

TAILCONE

11

5

MANUFACTURED


F-1260C

FLAP HANDLE SPACER

FINISH

32

7

MANUFACTURED


F-1287E

PUSHROD

TAILCONE

11

7

MANUFACTURED

.035X.4375 6061-T6 TUBE

F-1261

SPACER (Includes 4 parts)

FINISH

32

8

MANUFACTURED

UHMW

F-1287F

THREADED INSERT

TAILCONE

11

7

MANUFACTURED

.375 6061-T6 ALUMINUM ROD

F-1262

FLAP HANDLE BLOCK

FINISH

32

4

MANUFACTURED

.750 UHMW SHEET

F-1287G

SPACER

TAILCONE

11

5

MATERIAL

.058X5/16 6061-T6 TUBE

F-1263

FLAPERON MIXER BELLCRANK

FINISH

32

3

MANUFACTURED


F-1287H

SPACER

TAILCONE

11

5

MATERIAL

.058X5/16 6061-T6 TUBE

F-1264

CONTROL STICK PUSHROD

FINISH

32

4

MATERIAL

.058X5/16 6061-T6 TUBE

F-1288

COOLER STIFFENER

FUSE

22

2

MANUFACTURED


F-1265

FLAPERON PUSHROD

FINISH

32

6

MATERIAL

.058X3/4 6061-T6 TUBE

F-1289A-L

RESERVOIR BRAKE LINE

FUSE

27

5

MATERIAL

.062X1/4 PLASTIC TUBE

F-1266AD

FLAP DETENT BRACKET/ STOP

FINISH

32

7

MANUFACTURED


F-1289A-R

RESERVOIR BRAKE LINE

FUSE

27

5

MATERIAL


F-1266B

FLAP DETENT BRACKET PLATE

FINISH

32

7

MANUFACTURED


F-1289B-L

CROSS-OVER BRAKE LINE

FUSE

27

4

MATERIAL


F-1266C

FLAP DETENT BRACKET ANGLE

FINISH

32

7

MANUFACTURED


F-1289B-R

CROSS-OVER BRAKE LINE

FUSE

27

4

MATERIAL


F-1267A

CROTCH STRAP BRACKET

FUSE

21

6

MANUFACTURED


F-1289C-L

MAIN BRAKE LINE

FUSE

27

4

MATERIAL


F-1267B

CROTCH STRAP BRACKET

FUSE

21

6

MANUFACTURED


F-1289C-R

MAIN BRAKE LINE

FUSE

27

4

MATERIAL


F-1268

DOUBLER

FUSE

21

15

MANUFACTURED


F-1289D-L

CALIPER BRAKE LINE

FINISH

35

4

MATERIAL

.032X1/4 3003 TUBE

F-1270

FUSELAGE SIDE SKIN

FUSE

23

6

MANUFACTURED


F-1289D-R

CALIPER BRAKE LINE

FINISH

35

4

MATERIAL

.032X1/4 3003 TUBE

Page 4 of 7

PART NUMBER

1/19/2011

NOMENCLATURE

SUB-KIT


MAKE FROM MATERIAL: .040 2024-T3 ALCLAD SHEET

PART NUMBER

NOMENCLATURE


MAKE FROM MATERIAL:

F-1290

PEDAL BLOCK

FUSE

27

3

MANUFACTURED

UHMW

HS-1217

AFT SKIN

STABILATOR

9

9

MANUFACTURED


F-1294A

UPPER TAILCONE FAIRING

FINISH

12

6

MANUFACTURED

FIBERGLASS-EPOXY

HS-1218A

AFT HINGE

STABILATOR

9

7

MATERIAL

AN257-P3

F-1294B

LOWER TAILCONE FAIRING

FINISH

12

6

MANUFACTURED

FIBERGLASS-EPOXY

HS-1218B

AST HINGE

STABILATOR

8

3

MATERIAL

AN257-P3

F-1294C

TABS

TAILCONE

12

5

MANUFACTURED


HS-1219-L

AST SPAR

STABILATOR

8

3

MANUFACTURED


FF-00002

FRICTION COMB

POWERPLANT

49

9

MANUFACTURED


HS-1219-R

AST SPAR

STABILATOR

8

3

MANUFACTURED


FF-1201

PITOT BLOCK

POWERPLANT

47

2

MANUFACTURED

.500 UHMW SHEET

HS-1220

AST CONTROL HORNS

STABILATOR

8

3

MANUFACTURED


FF-1202

PITOT TUBE

POWERPLANT

47

2

MANUFACTURED

.058X5/16 6061-T6 TUBE

HS-1221-L

LEFT AST SKIN

STABILATOR

8

2

MANUFACTURED


FF-1204A

COOLER BOX FACE

POWERPLANT

49

3

MANUFACTURED


HS-1221-R

RIGHT AST SKIN

STABILATOR

8

2

MANUFACTURED


FF-1204B

UPPER COOLER BOX RIB

POWERPLANT

49

4

MANUFACTURED


HS-1222

AST RIB

STABILATOR

8

2

MANUFACTURED


FF-1204C

LOWER COOLER BOX RIB

POWERPLANT

49

4

MANUFACTURED


HS-1223

DRILL GUIDE

STABILATOR

8

3

MANUFACTURED


FF-1205

COOLER BOX DOOR

POWERPLANT

49

3

MANUFACTURED


HS-1224

DOUBLER

STABILATOR

9

2

MANUFACTURED


FF-1205B

COOLER BOX BRACKET

POWERPLANT

49

3

MANUFACTURED


IE F-385B

FUEL SENDING UNIT

TANK

37

4

MANUFACTURED

N/A

FF-1206

COOLER BOX HINGE

POWERPLANT

49

2

MATERIAL

MS20257C4-4 STAINLESS STEEL HINGE

IF DYNON DEK 180-12

DYNON EFIS/EMS

AV-D180

42

5

MANUFACTURED

N/A

FF-1206C

HINGE PIN

POWERPLANT

49

2

MATERIAL

SSP-120

MAP BOX DOOR

ALUM SHEET

FUSE

29

6

MATERIAL

.063 2024-T3 ALCLAD SHEET 4.032X6.31

FF-1207

COOLING SHROUD

POWERPLANT

46

5

MANUFACTURED

E-GLASS / EPOXY

MAPBOX

MAP BOX HALF

FUSE

29

6

MANUFACTURED


FF-1207B

SHROUD HOSE

POWERPLANT

49

15

MATERIAL

2.5 INCH SCAT HOSE

MS21251-B5S

BARREL

FINISH

32

14

MANUFACTURED

N/A

FF-1208A

RADIATOR HOSE - INPUT

POWERPLANT

49

2

MATERIAL

EA HOSE H151

MS21266-1N

NYLON GROMMET

FINISH

32

9

MANUFACTURED

N/A

FF-1208B

RADIATOR HOSE - OUTPUT

POWERPLANT

49

2

MATERIAL

EA HOSE H151

MS24566-4B

PULLEY

FINISH

32

13

MANUFACTURED

N/A

FF-1208C

EXPANSION SPRING

POWERPLANT

49

2

MANUFACTURED

STAINLESS STEEL .120 WIRE DIA .750 PITCH

PLA ELSA DATA PLATE

STAINLESS DATA PLATE

CERTIFICATION 51

5

MANUFACTURED

N/A

FF-1209

SEAL FACE

POWERPLANT

49

4

MANUFACTURED


PLA EXPERIMENTAL 2"

2" DECAL 'EXPERMENTAL'

CERTIFICATION 51

3

MANUFACTURED

N/A

FF-1210

CABLE END

POWERPLANT

49

8

MANUFACTURED

.049X5/16 304WD SS OR 316 SS TUBE

PLA NO PUSH BLACK

NO PUSH PLACARD BLACK

CERTIFICATION 51

5

MANUFACTURED

N/A

FF-1212

OIL COOLER FRAME

POWERPLANT

49

9

MANUFACTURED

.032 2024-T3 ALCLAD

PLA NO PUSH WHITE

NO PUSH PLACARD WHITE

CERTIFICATION 51

5

MANUFACTURED

N/A

FF-1213

OIL COOLER FRAME BOTTOM

POWERPLANT

49

9

MANUFACTURED

.032 2024-T3 ALCLAD

PLA OPEN (RIGHT)

CANOPY OPEN DECAL CW

CERTIFICATION 51

6

MANUFACTURED

N/A

FF-1214

OIL COOLER FACEPLATE

POWERPLANT

49

9

MANUFACTURED

.063 2024-T3 ALCLAD

PT 1/2ODX2 CLEAR

PLASTIC TUBE

FINISH

35

5

MATERIAL

3/8X1/2X2" CLEAR TUBE

FF-1215

OIL COOLER SPACER

POWERPLANT

49

9

MANUFACTURED

.032 2024-T3 ALCLAD

R-1014

COUNTERBALANCE WEIGHT

STABILATOR

9

10

MANUFACTURED

LEAD

FF-1216

PITOT LINE

POWERPLANT

45

4

MATERIAL

.030X1/4 104-0250031 TUBE

R-1201

MAIN SKIN

RUDDER

7

5

MANUFACTURED


FF-1217

PITOT INTERCONNECT

POWERPLANT

47

2

MATERIAL

.062X3/8 104-0375062 TUBE

R-1202

SPAR

RUDDER

7

2

MANUFACTURED


FF-1218

OIL TANK VENT TUBE

POWERPLANT

49

5

MATERIAL

.062X3/8 104-0375062 TUBE

R-1203

MAIN RIB

RUDDER

7

3

MANUFACTURED


FF-1219

OIL VENT INTERCONNECT

POWERPLANT

49

5

MATERIAL

EA H177 HOSE

R-1204

SPAR CAP

RUDDER

7

2

MANUFACTURED


FF-1220

OVERFLOW BOTTLE HOSE

POWERPLANT

49

5

MATERIAL

EA HOSE H460

R-1205

HINGE BRACKET

RUDDER

7

2

MANUFACTURED


FF-1221

HOSE BRACKET

POWERPLANT

49

14

MANUFACTURED

.040 4130 STEEL

R-1206

RUDDER TIP FAIRING

RUDDER

12

2

MANUFACTURED

FIBERGLASS-POLYESTER

FF-1222

MANIFOLD PRESSURE HOSE

POWERPLANT

46

16

MATERIAL

EA HOSE H460

RV-12 DWG 1

3-VIEW DRAWING

V STAB

MANUFACTURED

24 X 36 WHITE PAPER

FLO-SCAN OR FT-60

FUEL FLOW TRANSDUCER

FUSE

28

5

MANUFACTURED

N/A

RV-12 DWG 2

CUT-AWAY DRAWING

V STAB

MANUFACTURED

24 X 36 WHITE PAPER

FUEL TANK TEST KIT

FUEL TANK TEST KIT

FINISH

33

7

MANUFACTURED

N/A

RV-12 MANUAL SECTION 42

AVIONICS KIT ASSY INSTRUCTIONS

AV-D180

MANUFACTURED

11 X 17, 3 HOLE PUNCHED LEFT SIDE, DUPL

FUEL VALVE 4161089

FUEL VALVE

FUSE

28

2

MANUFACTURED

N/A

RV-12 MANUAL SECTION 51

DOCUMENTATION KIT ASSY INSTRUCT.

CERTIFICATION

MANUFACTURED


GAS-5

GASCOLATOR

FUSE

28

5

MANUFACTURED

N/A

RV-12 MANUAL SECTIONS 1 - 5

GETTING STARTED INSTRUCTIONS

V STAB

MANUFACTURED


HS-1201

MAIN SKIN

STABILATOR

9

8

MANUFACTURED



WING KIT ASSY INSTRUCTIONS

WING

MANUFACTURED


HS-1202

FWD SPAR

STABILATOR

9

2

MANUFACTURED



FUSE KIT ASSY INSTRUCTIONS

FUSE

MANUFACTURED


HS-1203

AFT SPAR

STABILATOR

9

2

MANUFACTURED


RV-12 MANUAL SECTIONS 30-35, 37-38 FINISH KIT ASSY INSTRUCTIONS

WING

MANUFACTURED


HS-1204

FWD INBD RIB

STABILATOR

9

6

MANUFACTURED



POWERPLANT KIT ASSY INSTRUCTIONS

POWERPLANT

MANUFACTURED


HS-1205

FWD OUTBD RIB

STABILATOR

9

6

MANUFACTURED


RV-12 MANUAL SECTIONS 6-12

EMP/TAILCONE KIT ASSY INSTRUCTIONS

V STAB

MANUFACTURED


HS-1206

INBD MAIN RIB

STABILATOR

9

6

MANUFACTURED


RV-12 PG 34-PLY TEMPLATE

PLY TEMPLATE DRAWING

FINISH

MANUFACTURED

24 X 36 WHITE PAPER

HS-1207

OUTBD MAIN RIB

STABILATOR

9

6

MANUFACTURED


S-1201

SPINNER

POWERPLANT

47

3

MANUFACTURED

E-GLASS / EPOXY

HS-1208

AFT RIB

STABILATOR

9

9

MANUFACTURED


S-1202

SPINNER PLATE

POWERPLANT

47

3

MANUFACTURED

.063 2024-T0 (NO HEAT TREAT)

HS-1209

SPAR CAP SPACER

STABILATOR

9

2

MANUFACTURED


S-1202B

BACK PLATE

POWERPLANT

47

6

MATERIAL

.032 2024-T3 ALCLAD SHEET 1 1/4 x 7

HS-1210

HINGE STOP

STABILATOR

9

5

MATERIAL

.058X5/16 6061-T6 TUBE

S-1203

FRONT SPINNER BULKHEAD

POWERPLANT

47

3

MANUFACTURED

.063 2024-T0 (NO HEAT TREAT)

HS-1211

SPAR CAP

STABILATOR

9

2

MANUFACTURED


S-1207

BUSHING

POWERPLANT

47

3

MANUFACTURED

RULON

HS-1212

INSPAR RIB

STABILATOR

9

3

MANUFACTURED


S-1208

SPACER

POWERPLANT

47

3

MANUFACTURED

.688 6061-T6 ROD

HS-1213

HINGE BRACKET

STABILATOR

9

2

MANUFACTURED


SBH-6X

LAP/SHOULDER/CROTCH BELT SET

FINISH

33

2

MANUFACTURED

N/A

HS-1214

RIB CLIP

STABILATOR

9

5

MANUFACTURED


STATIC-KIT

STATIC KIT FOR ALL MODELS

TAILCONE

10

8

MANUFACTURED

N/A

HS-1215

SKIN SPLICE PLATE

STABILATOR

9

9

MANUFACTURED


T-1201

MAIN TANK SKIN

TANK

37

2

MANUFACTURED


HS-1216

AFT MAIN RIB

STABILATOR

9

6

MANUFACTURED


T-1202

FWD TANK BULKHEAD

TANK

37

2

MANUFACTURED


Page 5 of 7

PART NUMBER

1/19/2011

NOMENCLATURE

SUB-KIT


MAKE FROM MATERIAL:

PART NUMBER

NOMENCLATURE


MAKE FROM MATERIAL:

T-1203

AFT TANK BULKHEAD

TANK

37

3

MANUFACTURED


VA-263

OIL DOOR HINGE

FINISH

38

8

MANUFACTURED

.063 6061-T6 SHEET

T-1204A

TOP TANK SKIN

TANK

37

5

MANUFACTURED


VA-263C

OIL DOOR HINGE DOUBLER

FINISH

38

8

MANUFACTURED


T-1204B

FLANGE

TANK

37

5

MANUFACTURED

.055X1.750 5052-O TUBE

VELCRO X 5

DOUBLE SIDED VELCRO TAPE

CERTIFICATION 51

4

MATERIAL

VELCRO TAPE 3/4" OR 1" WIDE

T-1205

FWD TANK BRKT

TANK

37

2

MANUFACTURED


VS-1201

MAIN SKIN

V STAB

6

6

MANUFACTURED


T-1207

FWD BAFFLE

TANK

37

3

MANUFACTURED


VS-1202

FRONT SPAR

V STAB

6

4

MANUFACTURED


T-1208

BAFFLE

TANK

37

3

MANUFACTURED


VS-1203

REAR SPAR

V STAB

6

3

MANUFACTURED


T-1209

RES SENDER PLATE

TANK

37

4

MANUFACTURED


VS-1204

FWD SKIN

V STAB

6

6

MANUFACTURED


T-1210

FUEL WINDOW

TANK

37

5

MANUFACTURED

.100 RADEL R SHEET

VS-1205

TIP RIB

V STAB

6

5

MANUFACTURED


T-1211

FUEL NECK

TANK

37

5

MANUFACTURED

T-1211A AND T-406B

VS-1206

MID RIB

V STAB

6

5

MANUFACTURED


T-1212

FUEL NECK COLLAR

TANK

37

5

MATERIAL

RUBBER FUEL HOSE 1.75 I.D.

VS-1207

UPR MAIN RIB

V STAB

6

5

MANUFACTURED


T-1213-1

BACKING PLATE

TANK

37

5

MANUFACTURED


VS-1208

LWR MAIN RIB

V STAB

6

5

MANUFACTURED


T-1214

ATTACH ANGLE

TANK

37

3

MANUFACTURED


VS-1210

HINGE BRACKET

V STAB

6

2

MANUFACTURED


T-1215

TANK FUEL RETURN LINE

TANK

37

6

MATERIAL

.032X1/4 3003 TUBE

VS-1211

HINGE SPACER

V STAB

6

2

MANUFACTURED


T-407

RING

TANK

37

2

MANUFACTURED


VS-1212-L

SPAR CAP

V STAB

6

3

MANUFACTURED


TOOL ICM INSERT/EXTRACT

D-SUB TOOL

FINISH

31

7

MANUFACTURED

N/A

VS-1212-R

SPAR CAP

V STAB

6

3

MANUFACTURED


U 5.00 X 5 TIRE

TIRE

FINISH

35

2

MANUFACTURED

N/A

VS-1213

V-STAB TIP FAIRING

V STAB

12

2

MANUFACTURED

FIBERGLASS-POLYESTER

U 5:00X5-6IT

INNER TUBE

FINISH

35

2

MANUFACTURED

N/A

W-1201B-L

INBD UPR WING SKIN

WING

17

3

MANUFACTURED


U-1202

OUTBD MAIN GEAR ATTACH BRKT

FINISH

35

3

MANUFACTURED

.875 4140 COLD ROLLED STEEL BAR

W-1201B-R

INBD UPR WING SKIN

WING

17

3

MANUFACTURED


U-1202B

OUTBD WEAR PLATE

FINISH

35

3

MANUFACTURED


W-1201C-L

WING WALK DOUBLER

WING

17

4

MANUFACTURED


U-1203

INBD MAIN GEAR ATTCH BRKT

FINISH

35

3

MANUFACTURED

.875 4140 COLD ROLLED STEEL BAR

W-1201C-R

WING WALK DOUBLER

WING

17

4

MANUFACTURED


U-1203B

INBOARD WEAR PLATE

FINISH

35

3

MANUFACTURED


W-1201-L

INBD WING SKIN

WING

17

2

MANUFACTURED


U-1203C

DOUBLER PLATE

FINISH

35

3

MANUFACTURED

1 1/4 X 5/8 2024-T3511 BAR

W-1201-R

INBD WING SKIN

WING

17

2

MANUFACTURED


U-1210A

AXLE

FINISH

35

6

MANUFACTURED

1.25 2024-T3 or 6061-T6 ROUND

W-1202B

MID UPR WING SKIN

WING

17

4

MANUFACTURED


U-1210B

SPACER

FINISH

35

6

MANUFACTURED

1.25 2024-T3 or 6061-T6 ROUND

W-1202-L

MID WING SKIN

WING

17

2

MANUFACTURED


U-1210C

ANTI-ROTATION PLATE

FINISH

35

6

MANUFACTURED

.125 2024-T3 OR 6061-T6 SHEET

W-1202-R

MID WING SKIN

WING

17

2

MANUFACTURED


U-1220-L

GEAR LEG

FINISH

35

3

MANUFACTURED

1.00 7075-T6 ALUMINUM PLATE

W-1203B-L

OUTBD UPR WING SKIN

WING

17

2

MANUFACTURED


U-1220-R

GEAR LEG

FINISH

35

3

MANUFACTURED

1.00 7075-T6 ALUMINUM PLATE

W-1203B-R

OUTBD UPR WING SKIN

WING

17

2

MANUFACTURED


U-611

WASHER

FINISH

35

6

MANUFACTURED

N/A

W-1203-L

OUTBD WING SKIN

WING

17

2

MANUFACTURED


U-MHMHE51B

5" WHEEL & BRAKE, E SERIES 1.25

FINISH

35

2

MANUFACTURED

N/A

W-1203-R

OUTBD WING SKIN

WING

17

2

MANUFACTURED


U-WHLAXLE3A

AXLE ASSEMBLY, A3A

FINISH

35

3

MANUFACTURED

N/A

W-1204A-L

WING TIP FWD SKIN

WING

17

5

MANUFACTURED


U-WHLNW51CC.625

NOSEWHEEL, 5" .625 BEARING

FINISH

35

2

MANUFACTURED

N/A

W-1204A-R

WING TIP FWD SKIN

WING

17

5

MANUFACTURED


VA-104-3

KNOB RED KIT

FUSE

28

2

MANUFACTURED

N/A

W-1204B

WING TIP AFT SKIN

WING

17

5

MANUFACTURED


VA-107

BRAKE RESERVOIR

FINISH

32

2

MANUFACTURED

N/A

W-1204C

WING TIP BOTTOM SKIN

WING

17

5

MANUFACTURED


VA-110

FLAP KNOB

FINISH

32

7

MANUFACTURED

1.000 2024-T3 OR 6061-T6 ROD

W-1204D

WING TIP CLOSE-OUT

WING

17

6

MANUFACTURED


VA-114

COMPRESSION SPRING

FINISH

32

7

MANUFACTURED

N/A

W-1204E-L

FWD WING TIP RIB

WING

17

5

MANUFACTURED


VA-188

FLO-SCAN MOUNT BRACKET

FUSE

28

5

MANUFACTURED


W-1204E-R

FWD WING TIP RIB

WING

17

5

MANUFACTURED


VA-188B

STANDOFF

FINISH

31

3

MATERIAL

.058X5/16 6061-T6 TUBE

W-1204F-L

AFT WING TIP RIB

WING

17

5

MANUFACTURED


VA-195A

MOUNT PLATE

WING

16

2

MANUFACTURED


W-1204F-R

AFT WING TIP RIB

WING

17

5

MANUFACTURED


VA-195B

KEEPER PLATE

WING

16

2

MANUFACTURED


W-1204G-L

HAND HOLD

WING

17

5

MANUFACTURED


VA-195H

ACCESS HATCH

WING

17

4

MANUFACTURED


W-1204G-R

HAND HOLD

WING

17

5

MANUFACTURED


VA-196

STALL WARNING VANE

WING

16

2

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STAINLESS

W-1204H-L

WING TIP TRAILING EDGE

WING

17

6

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VA-204

SEAL STRIP

FINISH

33

4

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K40-250

W-1204H-R

WING TIP TRAILING EDGE

WING

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6

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VA-205

DRIP PAN

POWERPLANT

46

8

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W-1205B

TERMINAL BLOCK

WING

16

2

MATERIAL

.125 UHMW SHEET 2X2 1/4

VA-210

FUEL FLANGE

TANK

37

2

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ALUMINUM

W-1205B/F-1270C GUIDE

UHMW DRILL TEMPLATE

WING

16

2

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VA-213

OIL SUPPLY HOSE

POWERPLANT

49

14

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N/A

W-1205-L

TERMINAL BRACKET

WING

16

2

MANUFACTURED


VA-214

OIL COOLER HOSE

POWERPLANT

49

14

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N/A

W-1205-R

TERMINAL BRACKET

WING

16

2

MANUFACTURED


VA-215

OIL RETURN HOSE

POWERPLANT

49

14

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N/A

W-1206-L

SPAR ASSEMBLY

WING

13

2

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2024-T3 ALUMINUM

VA-216

FUEL RETURN ASY

POWERPLANT

46

11

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N/A

W-1206-R

SPAR ASSEMBLY

WING

13

2

MANUFACTURED

2024-T3 ALUMINUM

VA-219

RV-12 CONTROL CABLE BOLT

POWERPLANT

50

4

MANUFACTURED

N/A

W-1206T

ATTACH ANGLE

WING

13

2

MANUFACTURED


VA-221

4 X 6 VINYL ENVELOPE W/FLAP

CERTIFICATION 51

4

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N/A

W-1206V

ATTACH ANGLE

WING

13

2

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VA-261

FUEL STRAINER

TANK

37

2

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N/A

W-1206Y

MAIN SPAR BUSHING GAUGE PIN

CERTIFICATION

MANUFACTURED

6061-T6 BAR

VA-262

TERMINAL TAB

FINISH

31

2

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W-1207A-L

REAR SPAR WEB

WING

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PART NUMBER

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NOMENCLATURE

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MAKE FROM MATERIAL:

W-1207A-R

REAR SPAR WEB

WING

14

3

MANUFACTURED


WH-B170

AUTOPILOT WIRE

FINISH

31

9

MATERIAL

WIRE AUTOPILOT SERVO

W-1207B

REAR SPAR DOUBLER PLATE

WING

14

3

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WH-B179 (FINISH)

COCKPIT LIGHT POWER WIRE

FINISH

40

9

MATERIAL

WIRE #22 (WHT)

W-1207C

TIP ATTACH ANGLE

WING

14

2

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WH-B180 (FINISH)

COCKPIT LIGHT POWER WIRE

FINISH

40

9

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WIRE #22 (WHT)

W-1208B

STUB SPAR DOUBLER

WING

14

2

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WH-B183

WING GROUND WIRE

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WIRE #18 (WHT)

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STUB SPAR CHANNEL

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WH-B184

NAV-STROBE POWER WIRE

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WIRE #20 OR #18 (WHT)

W-1208C-R

STUB SPAR CHANNEL

WING

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2

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WH-B216

TERMINAL GROUND WIRE

WING

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MATERIAL

WIRE #18 (WHT)

W-1208-L

NOSE RIB

WING

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2

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WH-B217

GROUND WIRE

WING

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3

MATERIAL

WIRE #18 (WHT)

W-1208-R

NOSE RIB

WING

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2

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WH-B218

TERMINAL WIRE

WING

16

3

MATERIAL

WIRE #18 (WHT)

W-1210B

RIB DOUBLER

WING

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2

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WH-B220

ELT GROUND WIRE

AVIONICS

42

15

MATERIAL

WIRE #22 (WHT)

W-1210-L

MAIN RIB

WING

15

3

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WH-B54

POWER OUTLET GND

FINISH

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WIRE #18 (WHT)

W-1210-R

MAIN RIB

WING

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3

MANUFACTURED


WH-P149

BATTERY GROUND CABLE

POWERPLANT

45

3

MANUFACTURED

WIRE #8

W-1212A

FLAPERON HINGE PLATE

WING

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2

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WH-P150

BATTERY POWER CABLE

POWERPLANT

45

3

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WIRE #8

W-1212B-L

FLAPERON HINGE

WING

14

2

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WH-P151

ENGINE GROUND CABLE

POWERPLANT

45

3

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WIRE #8

W-1212B-R

FLAPERON HINGE

WING

14

2

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WH-P154

STARTER TO MASTER RELAY CABLE

POWERPLANT

45

7

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WIRE #8

W-1213-L

TIP RIB

WING

17

5

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WH-P155

STARTER POWER CABLE

POWERPLANT

45

7

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WIRE #8

W-1213-R

TIP RIB

WING

17

5

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WH-P30

TRIM WIRES

TAILCONE

10

8

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5 CONDUCTOR 24 AWG WIRE

W-1216B

HINGE RIB

WING

15

2

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WH-RV12-296-496

GPS WIRING HARNESS

GARMIN X96

42

13

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N/A

W-1216-L

FLAPERON HINGE BRACKET

WING

14

2

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WH-RV12-APDC

AUTOPILOT DISCONNECT

FINISH

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7

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N/A

W-1216-R

FLAPERON HINGE BRACKET

WING

14

2

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WH-RV12-DYNON

DYNON D-180 HARNESS

AV-D180

42

5

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N/A

WD-1201

NOSE GEAR ASSY

FINISH

35

6

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WH-RV12-EGT

EXHAUST GAS TEMP WIRING HARNESS

POWERPLANT

45

4

MANUFACTURED

N/A

WD-1204

ENGINE MOUNT BRACKET

FUSE

22

2

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WH-RV12-FLTCOM403

INTERCOM WIRE HARNESS

FLIGHTCOM 403 42

14

MANUFACTURED

N/A

WD-1205

RUDDER HORN

RUDDER

7

2

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WH-RV12-GTX327

TRANSPONDER WIRING HARNESS

GARMIN COM-TX 42

6

MANUFACTURED

N/A

WD-1206

RUDDER PEDAL

FUSE

27

2

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WH-RV12-GTX328

TRANSPONDER WIRING HARNESS

GTX328

42

8

MANUFACTURED

N/A

WD-1207

STABILATOR UPPER HORN

STABILATOR

9

3

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WH-RV12-HEADSET

HEADSET WIRING HARNESS

FINISH

31

10

MANUFACTURED

N/A

WD-1208

STABILATOR LOWER HORN

STABILATOR

9

3

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WH-RV12-IGNITION

IGNITION HARNESS

POWERPLANT

46

12

MANUFACTURED

N/A

WD-1209

BRAKE PEDAL

FUSE

27

2

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WH-RV12-MUSIC

MUSIC WIRING HARNESS

FINISH

31

10

MANUFACTURED

N/A

WD-1210

CONTROL COLUMN

FUSE

21

13

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WH-RV12-OAT

OAT WIRING HARNESS

FINISH

31

8

MANUFACTURED

N/A

WD-1211-L

BRAKE PEDAL TORQUE TUBE

FUSE

27

2

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WH-RV12-OPTIONAL

OPTIONAL WIRING HARNESS

FINISH

31

7

MANUFACTURED

N/A

WD-1211-R

BRAKE PEDAL TORQUE TUBE

FUSE

27

2

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WH-RV12-POWER

POWER WIRING HARNESS

POWERPLANT

45

4

MANUFACTURED

N/A

WD-1212

CONTROL STICK

FINISH

32

5

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WH-RV12-PTT-CP

COPILOT PUSH TO TALK HARNESS

FINISH

31

11

MANUFACTURED

N/A

WD-1213

FLAP HANDLE

FINISH

32

3

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WH-RV12-PTT-P

PILOT PUSH TO TALK HARNESS

FINISH

31

11

MANUFACTURED

N/A

WD-1214-L

FLAPERON TORQUE TUBE

FINISH

32

8

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WH-RV12-ROTAX

FWALL FWD WIRING HARNESS

POWERPLANT

45

4

MANUFACTURED

N/A

WD-1214-R

FLAPERON TORQUE TUBE

FINISH

32

8

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WH-RV12-SL40

COM WIRING HARNESS

GARMIN COM-TX 42

9

MANUFACTURED

N/A

WD-1215-L

FLAPERON TORQUE ARM

FINISH

32

6

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WH-RV12-SL-ANT

COM ANTENNA CABLE

FINISH

31

3

MANUFACTURED

COAX

WD-1215-R

FLAPERON TORQUE ARM

FINISH

32

6

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WH-RV12-TUNNEL

TUNNEL WIRING HARNESS

FINISH

31

4

MANUFACTURED

N/A

WD-1216

FLAP HANDLE PUSHROD

FINISH

32

3

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WH-RV12-TX-ANT

TRANSPONDER ANTENNA CABLE

FINISH

31

3

MANUFACTURED

COAX

WD-1217

FUSELAGE PIN

FINISH

30

2

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WD-1217C

FUSELAGE PIN STOPPER

FINISH

30

2

MANUFACTURED

.500 6061-T6 ROD

WD-1218

CANOPY LATCH

FINISH

34

7

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WD-1219

CANOPY FRAME

FINISH

34

2

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WD-1220

ENGINE MOUNT RING

POWERPLANT

46

10

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WD-1221

ENGINE MOUNT STANDOFF

FINISH

35

2

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WD-1221C-PC

WASHER

POWERPLANT

46

10

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WD-1222

COUNTERBALANCE BRACKET

STABILATOR

9

3

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WD-1223

COUNTERBALANCE ARM

STABILATOR

9

3

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WD-1230

NOSE FORK

FINISH

35

6

MANUFACTURED

6061-T6 | BRONZE

WD-1233-L

STEP

FUSE

21

17

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WD-1233-R

STEP

FUSE

21

17

MANUFACTURED

4130 STEEL

WEDGE TOOL

RIVETING TOOL

V STAB

6

2

MATERIAL

AEX WEDGE 11.9

WH-00007

SOFT START WIRING HARNESS

POWERPLANT

45

7

MANUFACTURED

N/A

WH-B148

POWER OUTLET +V

FINISH

31

10

MATERIAL

WIRE #18 (WHT)

WH-B167

SPAR PIN INTERCONNECT WIRE

FINISH

31

6

MATERIAL

WIRE #22 (WHT)

Page 7 of 7

PART NUMBER

1/19/2011

NOMENCLATURE

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MAKE FROM MATERIAL:

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SECTION 5: CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS, PROCESSES AND USEFUL INFORMATION This section is not intended to be a complete manual on aircraft construction. We are only hitting the high points here. You should supplement this information with some of the publications listed in Section 1. 5A ALUMINUM & PRIMING & PAINTING All non-alclad aluminum parts such as 6061-T6 must be primed. Tubing must be primed both inside and out. WARNING: When installing threaded fittings/rod ends into primed tube be sure that the primer has cured fully. Failure to do so could result in seized bearings. The aluminum skins used on RV aircraft are all 2024-T3 alloy. They are "alclad", meaning that both sides of the sheet are coated at the mill with pure aluminum. This forms aluminum oxide, a corrosion resistant material which need not be primed or painted for adequate service as an airframe material. However, if the airplane is to be kept in a salt-air environment, or if a greater margin of corrosion protection is desired, priming the entire inside of the airframe is a good idea. Remember that priming will add cost, weight and time to your project. The majority of the parts in the kit have been coated in our plant with vinyl to protect them during manufacturing. We suggest that you remove the vinyl as soon as practical after inventorying your kit. (See 5M)

CAUTION: When spray painting ANY primer, work in a well ventilated area and wear, at the very least, a UL approved respirator with carbon filters. Systems providing fresh filtered air have become more affordable in the last few years and provide the operator a superior level of comfort and safety. As the name "Metal Etching Primer'' implies, the catalyst component contains an acid which can be dangerous if breathed. Similar precautions must be taken for spraying any of the two -part primers and paints. Check with the paint supplier for exact precautions required. Primers like P60G2, Vari-Prime and others are relatively inexpensive, light and easy to apply. These characteristics make them appeal to many builders. They do need to be sprayed with a gun, which is awkward for some, but the pain can be minimized if you prepare large batches of parts to reduce set up and clean up time. Some aerosol primers are useful for small parts when you don't want to set up to spray a whole batch. Usually there won't be a problem with mixing and matching the type of primers used, but we don't know for sure. They are impractical for painting the whole airplane or large skins. Generally (not everyone will agree) it is accepted that two part epoxy primers provide the best corrosion resistance. However, they are expensive, toxic, heavy and dry slowly all of which makes them problematic for the home builder. If you can tolerate those issues and want your RV to be in good shape when your grandchildren inherit it, they may be "best" for you. Van's Aircraft does not have an "approved" primer. We use Sherwin Williams P60 G2. This is used on the QBs and prototypes made here. The QBs primer has no pigment so it just makes the interior surfaces slightly darker and less shiny. In the US, this primer has a green tint, so the two will not match exactly. We use this primer because It is inexpensive, dries fast, and is easy to apply. Sherwin Williams will tell you that the primer needs a top coat. True, for optimum corrosion resistance, but Vans feels that this is not necessary for the way in which most owners will maintain their RVs.

The pre-assembled spars are anodized and need no additional protection. All aluminum bar, angle, and tube used in the RV-12 is not alclad and must be primed to assure corrosion resistance. The traditional primer used on aircraft aluminum has been Zinc Chromate. With proper surface cleaning, this is still a good primer. However, there are many newer primers available which are superior. Most of these are two part, catalytic curing primers. DUPONT VERI-PRIME (PRIMER #615 and CONVERTER #616S) DITZLER DP-40/50 EPOXY PRIMER

Whatever you use, prepare the surface as per the manufacturers instructions. This can be as simple as washing with water, or as complex as acid etching and alodining. We have nothing to add to whatever they may advise. Historically, not many manufacturers primed the interior of their products, but there are still many flying 50 year old airplanes without corrosion problems. One favorite analogy round here is the car paint parable. Two cars leave the factory as identically primed and painted as is humanly possible. Five years later one looks the same as the day it left the showroom, the other, looks like it is fit for the wrecking yard. Same primer/paint, different result. How do you intend to look after your airplane? How you treat it has a much greater effect than the primer you choose.

TEMPO brand Chromate in a spray can PRATT & LAMBERT Vinyl Zinc Chromate, EX-ER-7 and T-ER-4 Reducer SHERWIN WILLIAMS WASH PRIMER #P60G2 and Catalyst Reducer #R7K44 MARHYDE self etching primer, available in a spray can as well as quarts


1

RV-12

PAGE

05-01


PAINTING An entire book could be written on the subject of aircraft painting and still leave many questions unanswered. There are many surface preparations, primers, and paints available, and more coming on the market every day. Paints range anywhere from the older enamels and acrylic lacquers up through the newer acrylic enamels, urethanes, and epoxy finishes. Which one is best probably depends on the end result desired by the individual builder. However, the urethanes seem to be favored by most builders now because of their relative ease of application and shiny, maintenance free finish. The purpose of this section is only to present some general ideas, not to provide the ''best way'' of applying the ''best'' paint.

Painting an airplane obviously adds to its weight. The amount of weight depends on the type and amount of paint, primer and surface filler used. The ''No-primer'' Imron process described above will weigh about 15 lbs; about minimum for a complete paint job. A really elaborate paint job with all the extras could add two or three times this weight. In addition, heavy paint jobs will tend to shift the Center of gravity rearward because of the paint weight on the empennage. Control surface balance on the RVs has not been found to be critical. A normal (light) paint application on the ailerons and elevator will not upset their balance to a noticeable degree. However, a heavy paint job will require that these surfaces be re-balanced and additional counter balance weight added if necessary.

COLOR SCHEME

MASKING

Before getting serious about the type of paint to be used and the method and technique of application, most builders spend many months (or years?) while building trying to decide their paint scheme. Toward this end, little can be offered other than the suggestion that conservative colors and paint scheme will always look good on the basically good lines of an RV. More daring combinations of colors and patterns may result in a ''fabulous'' paint scheme, or could result in an eyesore which is too ''busy'' or gaudy to be appealing. Unless you have a very good eye for colors and patterns, it may not be worth the gamble. We have provided a three-view drawing for you to practice on. Just run off a few dozen copies of these drawings on your office copier (when the boss isn't looking), buy a box of colored pencils and start sketching out your dream scheme. Aside from the aesthetic aspects of color scheme selection, you might also give serious thought to recognition; i.e.; how well will your combination of colors stand out from the background when in flight. How visible will it be to pilots of other aircraft in flight? With the dense air traffic and haze of air pollution encountered around many airports, see-and-be-seen should be a major safety concern to all pilots. Light colors are generally considered to be the most visible against typical backgrounds found while flying in the USA. Yellow is probably the most universally visible, and can also be trimmed to provide very attractive paint schemes.

Application of masking tape for color separation and pin-striping is perhaps the most time consuming part of painting. Masking a straight line is tough enough, but getting just the right curve or ''sweep'' to a line is an art. Common hardware store masking tape usually gives poor results for distinct line separation because it permits too much ''bleed under''. Plastic ''decorator'' tape yields a nice crisp edge, but is rather expensive. Plastic electricians tape works fairly well and is relatively cheap. ''Scotch'' tape also works well, but is hard to remove after painting.

The question of whether a painted or bare aluminum airplane goes faster is often raised. Experience with the prototype RVs has not provided a definitive answer, so it would appear that there is little difference in skin friction drag from a typical painted surface to a typical bare aluminum surface. PAINTING HEALTH HAZARDS Spray painting can present a health hazard, particularly with most of the newer two-part paints. Chemicals used in the hardeners of urethane, acrylic enamel, and epoxy paints cause them to be potentially very hazardous if breathed, and can be harmful even through excessive exposure to the skin. For this reason, the painting area must be well ventilated and a UL approved respirator must be used. A simple particle filter is just not good enough. Also, full coverage clothing should be used to prevent skin exposure. Builders sometimes disregard warnings on the likes of paint cans because they become indifferent after daily exposure to warnings on all sorts of relatively benign household items. But where modern paints products are concerned, the warning should be taken very seriously. WARNING: PLEASE TAKE PAINT CAN TOXIC WARNINGS SERIOUSLY!!! PAINTING (ONE EXAMPLE) While we are not presenting this to be the proven ''most ideal'' paint and procedure, it was used on the prototype RV-4 under ''home'' conditions and by amateur painters. It consists simply of preparing the bare ''alclad'' aluminum surface with an acid wash (DuPont 255S cleaner, Martin Senour 6879 Twin Etch, etc.), followed by an application of Alodine, and then directly by DuPont Imron Polyurethane paint. While a primer or primer/surfacer could be used between the Alodine and the Imron, it was left off as a weight saving measure. Only the minimum thickness of Imron was used to get the desired flow-out for a slick surface. After the Alodine application, the skins were completely dried to remove any moisture which might later contribute to filiform skins corrosion. This was done with an air nozzle and repeated passes over all metal seams and rivets. The RV-6 prototype was painted with a similar ''Minimum weight'' approach, but in this instance Ditzler Durethane paint was used.

PAGE

05-02

RV-12

REVISION:

1

DATE: 02/22/10

There is no doubt that a smooth, wave free surface offers less aerodynamic drag than an imperfect one, but it is not known how much effect this will have on the speed of an RV. Probably not much unless the entire airframe is filled and smoothed before painting, and then the paint is rubbed-out perfectly smooth. This would entail much work, would add weight, and would probably not be advisable unless the builder wanted a 100 % perfect airplane rather than a 98 % perfect one. The price for that last 2 % would be high in terms of added work required. For the typical paint job, the builder obviously should try to work in a dust free environment so the paint surface will be as smooth as possible without the need for rub-out. Spanwise trim stripes should be avoided very near the wing leading edge. Much is being written about the effects of spanwise surface irregularities on the boundary layer control on airfoils, particularly those on canard configuration airplanes. The concern is that any surface irregularity near the wing leading edge, particularly spanwise ones, can disrupt the boundary layer airflow, upset laminar flow, and cause an increase in drag and a decrease in lift. On canard airplanes this can seriously affect not only performance, but also stability and control. On an RV, with its conventional configuration and non-laminar flow airfoil, the effects of surface irregularities are relatively minor. However, a rough paint trim line within the first few inches of the wing leading edge would probably cause a measurable effect on stall and top speeds. Trim lines more than 8-9 inches from the leading edge have a minimal effect, but even then should be rubbed out as smoothly as possible.


5B EDGE FINISHING, HOLE DEBURRING, AND SCRATCH REMOVAL 2024-T3 aluminum sheet is a relatively hard, brittle aluminum. Maintaining the high strength of this material in use requires that care be taken in its cutting, bending, and finishing. Because it is a hard material, it is scratch and notch sensitive. This means that sharp or rough edges, corners, and scratches can cause stress concentrations which will greatly increase the possibility of local failure, usually in the form of a small crack. The problem with small cracks is that they soon become large cracks, one piece of aluminum becomes two pieces, etc. Obviously, we do not want this happening in our airframe, particularly when separated from solid earth by a lot of very thin air.

SHEARED ALUMINUM SHEET

FINISHED EDGES SHARP EDGE

Scratches in the surface of aluminum can have the same weakening effects as rough edges, corners and holes. The alclad sheet being used is very easily scratched because of the thin layer of very soft aluminum used on the surface. Scratches within this surface layer will have little effect on strength, but deeper scratches will. The greatest difficulty is deciding how deep a scratch can be before it is a potential problem. The best solution to this is to take extra care to prevent scratches, and then to sand or buff out all scratches, no matter how small. Very light scratches can be removed with #600 wet sandpaper. Deeper ones will require #400 (or perhaps more coarse) sandpaper, followed by #600 for finishing. One thing to remember when removing scratches is that you also remove the alclad surface of the aluminum and thus the corrosion protection. Any area that has been sanded for scratch removal must be primed.

5C MARKING PARTS WARNING: NEVER use a scribe to make layout lines or other marks on aircraft parts. The lines can cause failure of the part along the lines with the vibration of the engine. The use of an ordinary lead pencil will cause corrosion of the aluminum. We recommend that you use only an extra fine point "Sharpie" pen. For some unexplained reason the blue ones seem to last longer than other colors. The sharpie ink will bleed through primer, so you can still see the ID marks after priming the parts.

5D RIVETING

TEAR MARKS FROM SHEAR

Two types of rivets are used in the construction of an RV; "AN" rivets, and "blind" rivets. Blind rivets are often referred to as Pop Rivets (although "Pop'' is actually a brand name). See the blind rivet identifier on page 05-07. The RV-12 utilizes blind rivets to simplify and speed the construction process, and they are set using a pneumatic or hand-operated puller. See Figure 3 Page 05-05.

0.040 OR THICKER

0.016-0.032

BURR

Two styles of AN rivets are used; universal head (AN470) and 100° countersunk head (AN426). Three diameter rivets are used; AD3 (3/32),AD 4 (1/8), and AD6 (3/16). While all the numbers and letters may be confusing at first, they convey useful information, as shown in the sketches at the end of this section. AN rivets are set with either a rivet gun and a bucking bar, or a rivet squeezer. Driving universal head rivets requires a rivet set of a size corresponding to the rivet head size. 3/16'' rivets are used in the main wing spar construction, and require a very high setting pressure, necessitating a heavy-duty rivet gun or a fairly large rivet squeezer. The RV kits have pre assembled spars so builders don't have to set 3/16" rivets.

FIGURE 1: EDGES All aluminum edges and corners must be smoothed and radiused to prevent this stress concentration from occurring. Any sheared edge, whether sheared by hand or by machine, has sharp corners and has a burr on one edge as shown in Figure 1. This burr must be removed and the sharp edges rounded off. This can be done a number of ways; with a file, a Scotchbrite polishing wheel, sandpaper, or a burnishing (de-burring) tool. In most instances, the burnishing tool, followed by a pass or two over a Scotchbrite wheel mounted in a bench grinder, is the best and quickest method. A good test for the edge finish of aluminum sheet is to run your finger over it. If you can't feel any roughness and there is no chance of drawing blood, the finish is OK. You should not be able to see the original cutting marks on the material. In other words, if the sheet had been sawed (bandsaw or hacksaw), the saw marks should be removed in the process of smoothing.

Rivets must be the correct length. If they are too long they tend to bend over like a nail, or "cleat". If they are too short, there is not enough material to form a full shop head. While the plans usually call out the rivet length required, there will still be places where the builder will need to know the correct method of determining rivet length. The rule of thumb is that the length of the rivet shank should equal the thickness of the material being riveted, plus 1.5 times the rivet diameter. For example, if we were to rivet an .016 skin to an .032 rib, the material thickness would equal .048. If we are using a #3 rivet (3/32" diameter), 1.5 times the rivet diameter would be 9/64". Checking a decimal equivalent chart we find that 9/64=0.140. By adding 0.140 to 0.048, we arrive at a rivet length of 0.188. Rivets come in increments of 1/16", so the nearest rivet would be an AD3-3; 3/16 or 0.1875". This formula works well for rivet lengths up to about 1/2" For thicker material, such as the wing spar, a greater rivet length allowance is required.

Corners, particularly inside corners, must be cut with a radius to prevent cracking. See Figure 2.This radius can vary from 1/16'' for .016 thick aluminum to 1/8'' for .040 aluminum. The radius edge then must be smoothed just as the straight edges discussed above. A small round file works well for this. This is especially important where a bend line is intersecting the inside corner in question. Cracks are likely to occur at the sheet edge even if the bend radius is great enough.

A properly set rivet will have a shop head diameter of 1.5 times the shank diameter and a height of 1/2 the shank diameter. See Figure 3. A simple gauge is available from tool suppliers. As you gain experience, you will find that your eye is very accurate, and the gauge is needed only to "recalibrate" it.

All drilled holes should also be de-burred. This is an easy but time-consuming chore, and can be done with an oversize drill bit, either held between your fingers and twisted, or in a variable speed drill running very slow. Special swivel deburring tools are also available from tool supply houses. These work better and are much quicker. Burrs around holes are a problem mainly in riveting and dimple countersinking. The burr can prevent a rivet head from seating properly and can make dimple countersinking difficult and inaccurate. Be very careful deburring holes in .020 or thinner sheet. By the time you have deburred both sides, the hole could be enlarged. The finishing procedures just described will constitute a sizable portion of the total building time. However, they are important for structural reasons as well as cosmetic. Most of these holes, edges, etc. will be inside the airframe and out of sight when the airplane is finished. This is no reason to consider them unimportant. The need for good edge finishing is most difficult to impress on new builders not accustomed to aircraft standards. PAGE

05-04

RV-12

REVISION:

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DATE: 02/22/10

FLAT PATTERN

BEND LINES BEND RELIEF

AFTER BENDING

FIGURE 2: BENDING

NOTE: There are times when the correct rivet length is not available. Depending on the application a shorter rivet can be used or a longer rivet cut to the proper length. Using a longer rivet, as is, can result in the shank being bent over like a nail. We have chosen to use a rivet that may seem too short in some places, but will do the job adequately. Page 05-06 illustrates the riveting process, rivet nomenclature, and some of the problems builders may encounter. Artist Tony Bingelis has managed to include a great deal of information in a small space. Those new to riveting will benefit from careful study of these drawings. See also Page 05-05 Figure 3.

1 1/2 RIVET DIA. MIN 1/2 RIVET DIA. MIN

FIGURE 3: FORMED RIVET DIMENSIONS

VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. 5D (continued) DRILLING OUT RIVETS One of the common calls we get is "I had to drill out a bad rivet and now the hole is oversize. What do I do?". Sometimes this is done multiple times in the same hole and now the hole is so large that the builder has to use a bolt and nut instead of a rivet. See below. EXCERPT from Alcoa Aluminum Rivet Book, dated 1984. "The standards to which driven rivets should conform are frequently uncertain. In addition to dimensions and perfection of shape, inspection is concerned with whether the drive head is coaxial with the shank (not "clinched") and whether there is excessive cracking of the heads. It has been determined that even badly cracked heads are satisfactory from the standpoint of static strength, fatigue strength and resistance to corrosion. (Poorly set and cracked) rivet heads were tested in tension to determine how well formed a head has to be in order to develop full strength. The tensile strengths of all the rivets were within five percent of the strongest. The test indicated that minor deviations from the theoretically desired shape of head are not cause for concern or replacement. The second rivet that is driven in any one hole [is] likely to be more defective than the first because the hole is enlarged and [the] rivet will be more likely to buckle and form an imperfect head. Tests have shown that very small rivet heads are sufficient to develop the strength of the rivet shank, even when the rivets are subject to a straight tensile pull....where a large head is not needed for appearance, smaller sizes of drive head should be used to decrease the required driving pressures."

This recommendation is meant as a guideline, not an absolute rule. There may be instances where countersinking in 0.032" stock makes the job easier, and certainly can be used. One example is when a sheet is sandwiched between two other thicknesses. See Figure 2 . In this case, the sheet receiving the factory countersunk head is dimpled, the sheet underneath is machine countersunk to receive the dimple, and the third sheet is left full thickness. When countersinking the second sheet you must go slightly deeper than you would for a rivet. Use the appropriate rivet or screw as a gage when you machine countersink. When the rivet/screw is flush, you are done. If there is going to be a dimpled skin riveted onto the machine countersunk surface, adjust the machine countersink tool a few "clicks" deeper than flush. This will make the rivet/screw sit about .005" below flush when dropped into the hole .

FIGURE 3: SETTING BLIND RIVETS BELOW: HOW TO SET A BLIND RIVET IN A DIFFICULT LOCATION.

CORRECT

FOLLOWING ILLUSTRATIONS SHOW PROPERLY SET BLIND RIVETS, AS WELL AS SOME POORLY SET RIVETS.

USE PIECE OF VINYL CLAD SCRAP MATERIAL TO PROTECT FINISHED SURFACE.

LP4-X SET CORRECTLY

90°

AD3 RIVETS

SEE SECT 06-02 OF THE RV-12 BUILDER'S MANUAL FOR WEDGE TOOL. STEP 1: ALIGNING RIVET & PARTS

100° 0.020 0.032

0.032 0.032

3/32 1. TOP SHEET TOO THIN. COUNTERSINK ENLARGES HOLE.

0.050 0.040

3/32 2. MINIMUM ACCEPTABLE THICKNESS OF TOP SHEET.

3/32 3. MORE THAN ADEQUATE THICKNESS OF TOP SHEET.

FIGURE 1: RIVETS AND SHEET THICKNESS

SCRAP SHEET

CORRECT

RIVET PULLER WEDGE TOOL

5E COUNTERSINKING AND DIMPLING

CS4-X SET CORRECTLY

SURFACE PART DEFORMED AND PARTS UNDERNEATH SEPARATE, APPLY ONLY ENOUGH FORCE TO HOLD MFG HEAD FLAT ON PART

90°

DIMPLED SKIN

Flush riveting requires that a flat or "mushroom'' set be used and that the skin around the rivet hole be countersunk either by dimpling or machining. Be sure to remove any vinyl coating before machine countersinking or dimple countersinking the parts. Machine countersinking actually removes metal and is done with a stop countersink tool and a drill motor . Machine countersinking can only be used in areas where the skin thickness is sufficient. Caution: Check the machine countersink depth frequently, depths vary depending on part shape, hand pressure and tool sharpness. When countersinking for AD3 rivets, .032 is the minimum allowable skin thickness, and for AD4 rivets, .050 is the minimum thickness. Metal thicker than this is difficult to dimple, so it is common practice to machine countersink for AD4 rivets. Notice in Figure 1, example 1 where the skin thickness is insufficient, the countersunk hole for the rivet head enlarges the original rivet hole and no longer supports the shaft of the rivet. Only a portion of the rivet head is now contacting the skin, so it cannot achieve its design strength which is based on full head contact. In Figure 1, example 2, skin of minimum acceptable thickness is used. Note here that the full rivet head is supported and the original hole is not enlarged. Figure 1, example 3 shows not only the fully supported rivet head, but also contact with the rivet shank. Dimple countersinking, or simply "dimpling", is done with dimple die sets such as those shown on page 05-06. The dimple dies are installed in a standard hand rivet squeezer and has enough reach for all the holes in the RV-12 kit which require dimpling. While it is acceptable practice to machine countersink metal as thin as 0.032" for an AN426AD3 (3/32") rivet, we recommend dimpling in metal 0.040 and thinner. There are a couple of reasons. First, although RVs are designed so that a countersunk joint is acceptable, the interlocking nature of a dimpled rivet line is stronger. Second, dimpling leaves a thicker edge for the shop head of the rivet to form against, meaning that the metal deforms less and there is less chance of "working" rivets later.

STEP 2: RIVET PROPERLY SEATED 0.032

TO REPAIR GRIND EXCESS SHAFT FLUSH WITH MFG HEAD

MFG HEAD NOT FLAT ON PART, SET RIVET AT A 90° ANGLE TO PART

EDGE OF MACHINE CTSK HOLE GIVES POOR EDGE SUPPORT FOR RIVET HEAD AND BODY

STEP 3: RIVET PROPERLY SET 0.032

RIVT SWELLS BETWEEN PARTS, HOLD PARTS TIGHT AGAINST MFG HEAD

MFG HEAD NOT IN CONTACT WITH PART, HOLD MFG HEAD FLAT ON PART WHILE SETTING RIVET

MACHINE CTSK OK WHEN HELD BETWEEN SHEETS GOOD SUPPORT OF RIVET SHOP HEAD

FIGURE 2: DIMPLING DATE: 02/22/10 REVISION:

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RV-12

PAGE

05-05


PAGE

05-06

RV-12

REVISION:

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DATE: 04/02/08

ROD-END BEARING REFERENCE CHART

BLIND RIVET IDENTIFICATION

PART NO. STUD BEARING HOLE LENGTH THICKNESS

SEE VAN'S CATALOG FOR COMPLETE DESCRIPTIONS SCALE 1-1

MW-3M FEMALE 3/16 13/8 0.31

AACQ-4-3 AACQ-4-4

F3414M 1/411 3/16 13/4 7/16 FEMALE

AACQ-4-6 AD-41 -ABS

F3514M 5/16" 3/16 13/4 7/16 O o FEMALE

AD-41 H AD-42H

MM-3 1/8" MALE 3/16 11/4 5/16

^

AD-62-BS CM-4M 1/4" MALE 1/4 1.94 3/8

AK-42H

=1=^

CCR-246SS-3-2 M3414M 1/4" MALE 3/16 1.94 7/16 O

CR-3212-4-2 CR-3212-4-3 MD3616M

3/8" MALE 3/16 21/4 1/2

CR-3212-4-6 CR-3213-4-2

MD3614M 3/8" MALE 3/16 1 3/4 7/16

CR-3213-4-3 LP4-3

MD3616M

3/8"

MALE

3/16

21/4

1/2

M

CS4-4 MK-319-BS

GMM-4M-675 3/8" MALE 1/4 2 3/4 1/2 @

EMM

MSP-42 SD-42-BSLF N BSPQ-5-4

CM-4S 1/4" MALE 1/4 STUD 1.94 M QIC

0=^=^ 0=^=^

VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. 5F BACK RIVETING

The process used to manufacture the ribs may leave them slightly bowed. Before they are installed they must be straightened. This is done by "fluting", that is, putting small creases or "flutes" along the edge of the flange with special pliers. The flutes effectively shorten the flange and pull the rib into line.

(This section is not applicable to the RV-12 Construction)

5G FOLDED TRAILING EDGES

Fluting diagrams are shown on the plans where required. Otherwise the flutes are simply centered between the pre-punched holes in the flanges.

The RV-12 trailing edges come pre-bent. If necessary, finish or adjust the bend by hand. Use your fingers to squeeze along the length of the bend until the skin lies flush against the underlying structure without "pillowing" between ribs.

Straighten the ribs/bulkheads with fluting pliers and check for straightness by sighting down the web or by laying the part on a flat table top. Approach the fluting cautiously. Flute just a little at a time until the desired flatness is reached.

5H RIVETED TRAILING EDGES

Make sure that the flanges are perpendicular to the web, so that they will mate correctly with the skins Adjust with hand seamers as necessary. If you have overdone the flutes and curved the rib/bulkhead the other way, you can gently squeeze the flutes with the seamer to straighten the ribs.


5J ROLLED LEADING EDGES

5P ALUMINUM TUBING The RV-12 leading edges come pre-bent. If necessary, adjust the bend by hand until the skin lies flush against the underlying structure.

5K LAP JOINTS When riveting a lap joint, the expansion of the aluminum caused by the setting pressure and the expansion of the rivet causes the overhanging edge of the sheet to bend upwards slightly. This obviously makes the lap joint appear wider than it is, makes painting more difficult, etc. One easy method of minimizing this effect is by pre-bending the last 1/4 inch or so of the skin downward just a few degrees before it is clecoed and riveted. When the rivets are driven, the skin will be flattened and the pre-set in the skin edge will tend to hold it flush. There are several methods of making this slight edge bend. You can use a hand seamer, moving progressively down the sheet, making a very light bend to avoid bend marks between succeeding grips with the seamer. On long thin pieces you can put the sheet on an even-edged table with about 1/4'' overhang and draw a block of hardwood or plastic along the edge with just enough downward pressure to cause the slight bend as it moves. Some tool suppliers sell tools for the purpose, usually two small rollers mounted on an aluminum disc. The edge of the aluminum sheet is placed between the outboard set of bearings and a bending pressure is held as the tool is drawn down the edge. Use these with caution as they may tend to stretch a long edge and make it wavy. Avoid overbending the edge and causing a worse visual effect than before. Experiment with scrap material first.

5L FORMING ALUMINUM PARTS FROM SHEET


5M VINYL COATING Many of the alclad parts are supplied with a thin (usually blue) vinyl coating to prevent scratching during the manufacturing of the parts. The vinyl may be left on during drilling but should be removed for dimpling, priming and final installation. It is possible to remove strips of vinyl along rivet lines with a soldering iron. Carefully round and smooth the tip of the iron so it won't scratch the aluminum.

In RVs we use 3003 soft aluminum tubing in the fuel lines inside the cockpit and the brake lines. These lines must be bent with a tube bender to avoid kinking and get a professional looking installation. The flared ends of these lines are 37° and not the 45° that are found on automotive lines. A good quality flaring tool is a necessary tool to do the proper job. Properly installed, aluminum lines will last for many years. Here's a few tips on the "properly" part: Preparing the tube: Soft aluminum tube should be cut with a tubing cutter - not a hacksaw. The resulting end will be square. After making the cut, polish the end of the tube with fine crocus cloth, emery paper, or a Scotchbrite wheel. Mounting it in the flaring tool: First, put the AN-818 nut and AN-819 collar on the tube and push them out of the way. There's a little tongue on the rotary flaring tool that serves a stop. Make sure you've selected the right diameter (RV-12 uses 3/8 tubing for fuel lines, 1/4" tubing for brake lines), insert the tube from the far side of the tool until it hits the stop, then tighten the clamp. Making the flare: Swing the stop out of the way. Put a drop of light oil on the cone of the flaring tool. Spin the cone down into the tube and watch it make the flare. Inspect the flare: Take a good look at the stretched aluminum around the circumference of the flare. You will probably see some tiny stretch marks, but there should be no cracks or splits. Install the tube on the flare fitting: Use light oil or Fuelube to lubricate the faces of the flare and fitting prior to assembly. Mate the flared end of the tube with the conical end of the AN fitting. Slide the AN-819 collar down the tube until it rests on the back of the flare. It must be square to the fitting. Any slight angle will make it difficult to start the nut, and if you do get it started, runs the risk of splitting the aluminum flare. Slide the AN818 nut over the far end of the tube and engage the threads on the AN fitting. Tighten to the specified torque. You should have a Standard Aircraft Handbook with the torque tables for these things. (assuming aluminum fittings, for 1/4" tubing it's 40-65 inch-pounds, for 3/8" tubing it's 75-125 inch-pounds.) Later, you can leak test the system.

5Q STEEL

The adhesive on the vinyl strengthens with age, so if the coating is left on for more than a few weeks, it may become very difficult to remove. Corrosion has been found under the vinyl in some instances. If vinyl covered parts must be stored for long periods, remove the vinyl first.

Most of the steel used in RVs is all 4130 grade, mostly in the form of thin plate and thin wall seamless tubing. 4130 is a high strength, high carbon steel used extensively in the aircraft industry because of its high strength and relatively good workability.

5N FLUTING

Most steel parts supplied in RV kits are powder coated at the factory, meaning that there is little for the builder to do except install it. On a few parts, where the sequence of welding or forming operations makes powder coating at the factory impractical, the builder may paint the part. The best method of cleaning is bead-blasting, but some work with a stiff brush and solvent will do the job.

There are some conventions when referring to parts of parts. Terms like "flange" and "web" have specific connotations and using them correctly makes the job of Van's Builders Support personnel much easier. An example is shown on Figure 1.

Steel parts should be primed and painted immediately after cleaning to prevent rust.

5R INSTALLING NUTPLATES FLANGE WEB

SPAR

RIB

FIGURE 1: BASIC TERMINOLOGY PAGE

05-08

RV-12

REVISION:

1

DATE: 02/22/10

Nutplates are almost always installed with flush rivets. When the structure is too thin to machine countersink, dimple the structure and dimple the nut plate. In order to dimple the nutplate you may need to modify the dimple die so it will clear the threaded portion of the nutplate. Simply grind away that portion of one side of the die that is in the way. If you do this carefully the die will still give good service in dimpling other parts. Of course you only have to modify the female half of the die.

VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. 5S FUEL TANK SEALANT The recommended sealant, MC-236-B2, (often called ProSeal) is available through VAN'S ACCESSORIES CATALOG. Although the sealant used to seal the tanks is not particularly noxious, only use it and the solvents used in tank construction with adequate ventilation. Use a respirator, gloves (which also keep oil from your skin off the surfaces to be sealed) and protective cream when sealing the tanks. Why expose your skin and lungs if you can prevent it? Working with tank sealant can be a messy proposition but it doesn't have to be. By taking care and thinking things through it can be painless. Handy things to have on hand: disposable surgical gloves, a box of Popsicle sticks, a supply of clean rags, paper towels, butcher paper (not newspaper) to cover the bench surface. Roughen all mating surfaces using a scotchbrite pad. Don't be bashful; score the aluminum well, so the sealing compound will have more surface to grip. Then thoroughly clean all the parts (including rivets) with naphtha or MEK or an etching acid like Alum Prep or Twin Etch. After cleaning, do not pollute the areas to be sealed. Don't even touch them. The oils from your skin will affect the bond of the sealant. The tank sealant should be mixed as accurately as possible. This can be done by using a homemade balance scale, a hand loaders scale or postal scale. Follow the instructions supplied with the sealant. When mixing sealant, do not mix too much at one time. A batch the size of four or five golf balls is usually enough for one work session. The sealant provides 45 to 90 minutes of working time (less in warmer temperatures). To use the sealant as soon a possible, have all the work well planned and tools all laid out. Have a container of acetone, MEK, or lacquer thinner nearby for the frequent tool cleanings necessary during riveting. You can peel away overflow on areas you want to keep clean by strategically applying plastic tape before spreading the sealant. Following are two methods for making applying sealant easier. Use plastic freezer bags. A small amount of sealant can be put in one, the corner of the bag cut off, and the bag squeezed like a cake decorator's pastry bag to apply sealant to parts. Purchase some plastic disposable syringes from a farm supply store. A 35cc Monoject syringe will cost very little. Drill the end out a little larger for better flow of the thick sealant. After using a Popsicle stick to fill the syringe and squeezing out the air, you now have a miniature caulking gun. Mixed, unused sealant may be kept in the freezer up to 4 days.

5T FIBERGLASS

Van's recommends use of a Poly Fiber product called Smooth Prime. We follow the manufacturers instructions EXCEPT that we apply the first coat straight-out-of-the-can and un-reduced, using a bondo squeegee rather than roller or spray gun. Using a squeegee to apply the first coat forces the filler into the surface voids.

5U PLEXIGLASS, ACRYLIC CANOPY, AND LEXAN WINDOW HINTS Definitions Plexiglas or Poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) is a transparent thermoplastic often used as a light or shatter-resistant alternative to glass. This material is specifically used for canopies and windows contained in RV Finish Kits. Lexan or polycarbonate resin thermoplastic is the brand name for polycarbonate sheet and resin in a wide range of grades. This material is used specifically for the RV-12 aft window. The Plexiglas canopy bubble and Lexan window are a couple of the most expensive and fragile components in the kit. Mis-handling, scratching, and/or cracking them is one of the most disappointing and gumption-robbing experiences a homebuilder can have. Below are a few general Do's and Don'ts. Safety Most of us understand the importance of Shop Safety. Eye, ear, and respiratory protection are essential when fabricating Plexiglas and Lexan. Die grinders will cut fingers without a second thought, turn at very high rpm, and can throw chips and dust at un-dodgable velocities. Two hands are recommended to guide this tool. Drill bits can also break and become flying hazards so eye protection is a must. Remember to support your work well and use gloves when it makes sense. Handling The canopy is the most vulnerable to cracks when it is moved or flexed when there are un-deburred or finished edges or holes. Be especially cautious when the canopy is in this state. Plexiglas and Lexan are dramatically less brittle when warm. Do not try to work on these materials in a cold shop. Cutting or drilling the acrylic transparencies in temperatures under 60º F is asking for trouble. Heat the shop to 75-80º -- it may be uncomfortable to you, but your canopy loves it. Many builders will put a small space heater under the canopy when trimming, just as insurance. Take care not to overheat the canopy. Too hot is when any part of the canopy is hotter than "warm to the touch". More than one builder has melted a canopy in an attempt to make sure it is "warm enough". Localized heat is as bad as no heat and can deform the canopy.

Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (FRP), or "Fiberglass" as it is more commonly known, is used in numerous places in RVs for non-structural parts. On RV-12 these include the cowl, spinner, and other fairings. The typical part consists of several thicknesses of bi-directional fiberglass cloth and resin.

Be cautious when fitting your canopy over small protrusions and/or transitions in canopy frame tubing diameters. You might elect to shim the tubing surfaces so that the acrylic isn't pinched or bridged over a given area.

Fiberglass parts supplied with RVs come in two types, polyester and epoxy. The polyester parts can easily be identified by their white gel-coat surface. The epoxy parts are translucent green. Polyester resin is not compatible with epoxy and can only be used on polyester parts. However epoxy resin is OK to use on either epoxy or polyester parts. Many builders have had good results with the West Systems epoxy resin.

Cutting Do NOT try to use a saw of any kind. You might get away with it once or twice, but eventually you will crack the bubble. Cutting discs, supplied with the kit, do an excellent job when used in a high-speed die grinder. They will also cut fingers without a second thought, so support your work well and use two hands to guide the grinder.

Molded fiberglass can be cut, filed, and drilled with any tools used for metal working. Though it is softer than steel or aluminum, glass fiber is very abrasive and it will dull tools quickly. Use sanding blocks and sandpaper rather than files.

Die grinders turn at very high rpm and can throw chips and dust at un-dodgable velocities. Eye, ear, and respiratory protection is essential! If a die grinder is not available an electric drill will work but you will have to make several passes going a little deeper each time until you break through. Practice on the flanges of the canopy for both the cutting and drilling operations.

Like welding, fiberglass molding is a specialty skill. Fiberglass parts lend themselves more to production methods than do most other parts. Thus, VAN'S AIRCRAFT offers most fiberglass parts pre-molded. To make the parts that are not supplied in the kit any fiberglass cloth of medium weight will do. Get some flocked cotton fiber and micro balloons to mix with the resin for building up and filling. Using Peel Ply will result in a very smooth finish that is also ready for glass to glass bonding without sanding. Most supplies can be obtained from a local marine/boat store or from one of the mail order supply houses like Aircraft Spruce. PREPPING THE COWLING FOR PAINT

Drilling Special Plexiglas/Lexan drills are available from tool suppliers. Diamond Dust drills and Unibits are a couple of such recommended tools. Clamping a piece of wood to the acrylic material and drilling through into the wood can eliminate chipping on the backside of drilled holes. Start drilling the warmed acrylic with slow speeds and light pressure. Increase speeds and pressures as you progress. As the drill bit starts to go through the canopy, reduce the speed and pressure so that the drill bit penetrates through slowly. It is important to deburr both sides of the holes lightly with a machine countersink. No hole should have a sharp corner.

Fit the cowling to the fuselage, with all the hinges, retaining screw holes, and nut plates installed. DATE: 12/14/10 REVISION:

2

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PAGE

05-09

VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. 5V NUT AND BOLT TORQUES Practice drilling holes in scrap pieces until you are familiar and confident with the process. It is important to remember that heat from the machining and drilling processes may change the acrylic characteristics some to allow some of the approved products to affect the material. This is an important reason to cut slowly and avoid overheating the acrylic material. Use of a step-drill (Unibit) or reamer is recommended for hole enlargement. CAUTION: Do not use a regular twist drill as they have tips that tend to fracture the acrylic. Using a regular twist or plexi drill to enlarge a pre-drilled hole is not recommended and will almost guarantee to crack a canopy. Fiberglass Bonding, Cracks, Etc. Be certain to use ONLY epoxy resins. Do not use the more common polyester or vinyl ester resins. They are not compatible with Plexiglas and cause crazing that will ruin the canopy. We have had excellent luck with West Systems Epoxy products, available from boat yards and mail order houses.

The importance of correct torque application cannot be overemphasized. Undertorque can result in unnecessary wear of nuts and bolts, as well as the parts they secure. Overtorque can cause failure of a bolt or nut from over - stressing the threaded areas. Uneven or additional loads that are applied to the assembly may result in wear or premature failure. The following are a few simple, but important procedures, that should be followed to ensure that correct torque is applied. Be sure that the torque applied is for the size of the bolt shank not the wrench size. Use a calibrated torque wrench. Be sure the bolt and nut threads are clean and dry. Apply a smooth even pull when applying torque pressure.

Cracks… Seriously avoid jeopardizing or cracking the canopy at all costs. If the worst does occur and you develop a crack, they may sometimes be fixed using a solvent adhesive such as Plasti-Fix or Weld-On 3. Stop-drilling the crack is typically required to keep it from running.

Whenever possible torque the nut, not the bolt.

CAUTION: Do not use Polyester resin of any type, as it will cause crazing.

The chart below is for most of the fasteners used on RV's. Note that on the smaller bolts the torque is quite low and is in inch pounds. Do not try and use a foot pound torque wrench on these bolts. Get one calibrated in inch pounds.

Cleaning And Use Of Liquids For general cleaning use dishwashing liquid and water followed by a clear water rinse. To prevent water spots, blow dry with compressed air or wipe dry with soft cotton flannel. Plexus, Sprayaway #848 Industrial Plastic Cleaner, or All Clear can also be used for day to day cleaning. Grease, oil, tape residue, etc. may best be removed with mineral spirits, refined kerosene, white gasoline, naphtha, or isopropyl alcohol. Wash approved solvents off of canopy with dishwashing liquid and water. It is best to avoid using products that are not specifically formulated for acrylics on your canopy such as Rain-X or furniture polish. CAUTION: Do not use Loctite, aromatic solvents, acetone, benzene, ethyl acetate, carbon tetrachloride, lighter fluid, lacquer thinners, gasoline, toluene, window sprays, concentrated alcohols, keytones, scouring compounds, or ammonia products on or around acrylic or Lexan canopy materials. CAUTION: Do not allow electrical tape or auto fuel to come into contact with Lexan as it will also cause crazing. This is a particular issue to beware of when refueling the RV-12. Scratch Removal Small scratches can be buffed out with Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #17. For deep scratch removal, use Scratch Off , Micro Mesh, or 3M Window Repair kits. Avoid removing scratches in critical areas where clear visibility is important, as the process will usually result in some degree of optical distortion. Canopy Protection and Ventilation If the aircraft is tied down outdoors and subject to weather elements for any length of time, then the use of an aircraft canopy cover is highly recommended. The cover will protect canopies and windows from abrasive dust, dirt, and sand kicked up by wind or prop wash. Before purchasing, verify that the canopy cover is NOT waterproof as the trapped moisture and heat from the sun can be deleterious. Acrylic subjected to this treatment over a period of time may turn slightly milky and eventually crazes. Keep your canopy ventilated or covered when your aircraft is parked in the hot sun. Cabin temperatures can easily reach 150-200 degrees F even on a mild day. The acrylic can generally take these temperature conditions multiple times without any apparent adverse effect. It is the cumulative affect that will cause shortened service life of your canopy. The use of a Van's Aircraft Canopy Cover will significantly reduce the internal temperatures inside your aircraft to just a few degrees above outside ambient temperatures. Additionally it will also protect your expensive avionics from heat and your upholstery/seat belt harnesses from harmful UV rays. In winter conditions, ensure that the cabin and canopy is warmed adequately prior to flight if possible. A heat lamp or small, low output ceramic space heater can raise the cabin temperature to warm the acrylic, keeping it free from ice or snow. It will also be less prone to cracking.

PAGE

05-10

RV-12

REVISION:

2

DATE: 12/14/10

When applying torque to a bolt be sure to have a washer under the bolt head and lubricate the bolt shank.

The propeller manufacturer and the engine manufacturer have specific torque requirements for their equipment. Consult the appropriate manual for that information.

AN Bolt Size

Bolt SizeThreads Per Inch

Standard Nuts AN310, AN315, AN365 INCH POUNDS

FOOT POUNDS

AN3

#10-32

20-25

1.6-2.0

AN4

1/4-28

50-70

4.2-5.8

AN5

5/16-24

100-140

8.3-11.6

AN6

3/8-24

160-190

13.3-15.8

AN7

7/16-20

450-500

37.5-41.7

AN8

1/2-20

480-690

40.0-57.5

AN9

9/16-18

800-1000

66.6-83.3

AN10

5/8-18

1100-1500

91.6-125.0

VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. 5W ELECTRICAL WIRING NOTES

Repairing D-Sub Pins:

ELECTRICITY

If the proper crimping tool is unavailable, machined d-sub pins and sockets may be soldered on. If unfamiliar with soldering it may be prudent to practice this procedure on a sample wire before repairing the flight article wire.

There are three primary units of measure or terms we must know to successfully wire our plane: voltage, current and power. The battery we will be dealing with is known as a 12V battery. Batteries in good charge will have a terminal voltage between 12 and 13 volts. When a battery is installed in an airframe and the alternator or generator is operating, the system voltage will be 13.5 to 14.5 volts. The second term is current which is measured in units of amps (A). Current is a value representing the flow of electrons through a wire. An analogy would be a measurement of the flow of fuel to the engine in gallons/hour. The amount of current (amps) flowing in a circuit will determine the size of the circuit breaker (or fuse), the type of switch to use and the size of wire to use. The last term we must understand is Watt (W), which is a measure of power being consumed by a circuit. Items such as lights are typically rated in watts. WIRING Stranded wire is preferred over a solid conductor. Solid conductor wire (a single strand of wire) is more susceptible to breakage from the normal vibrations of an aircraft. Automotive type wire can be used in most applications. The only exception would be where shielded wire is desired. Wire should be supported such that it does not sag or swing freely. When passing through a bulkhead, use a grommet or support the wire in the center of the hole with clamps to prevent chaffing which could result in an in-flight electrical short. Bundling wires together is acceptable, except when a noisy wire is included with a sensitive circuit. an example would be including the transponder antenna lead or a strobe power lead in the same bundle with the mike wire or headset leads. The impulses created by either the transponder or the strobe could be picked up by the audio wiring.

5/32

Step 1: Strip wire back per the dimension in Figure 2. Step 2: Tin the end of the stripped wire by heating up the wire as it exits the insulation while holding solder against the tip of the wire. When the solder wicks into the strands of the stripped wire remove the heat and solder. It is very important to not let the solder wick beyond the end of the exposed wire under the insulation. This will make the wire brittle, fatigue and break where it exits the back of the pin.

WIRE INSULATION STRIPPED WIRE

Step 3: Slide the tinned portion of the wire fully into the pin or socket. Use a soldering iron to heat the barrel of the pin or socket while inserting solder wire into the witness hole (This will require a solder wire of a small diameter). Melt solder into the witness hole, then remove the heat and solder. Be careful not to get excess solder on the barrel of the pin or socket

BARREL

Step 4: Check that the wire is properly soldered to the pin by gently pulling on the pin or socket and the wire.

WITNESS HOLE

WARNING: Antennas must be hooked up before turning on the transponder or radio. Refer to the transponder, radio, and antenna manual/installation instructions for more information. TOP HALF Wire Colors: Wire colors are called out in the building plans as needed. Wire call outs are followed by their color in brackets (WIRE COLOR/STRIPE COLOR). Colors are abbreviated as follows: BLK = BLACK, BLU = BLU, BRN = BROWN, GRN = GREEN, GRY = GRAY, ORN = ORANGE, PRP = PURPLE OR VIOLET, RED = RED, WHT = WHITE, YEL = YELLOW. Harnesses are supplied with multi-colored wire or white wire with a label.

SIDE LATCH

CLAMSHELL STYLE BACKSHELL

ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS NOTE: Terminals should be crimped, but not necessarily soldered. If a termination is soldered, the wire should be supported near the solder joint to ensure there is no movement of the wire at the solder joint. The point where the wire goes into the solder joint is subject to breakage if the wire is allowed to move freely (i.e. normal vibrations and flexing).

D-SUB

PLUG-IN SIDE PIN INSERTION SIDE

JACKSCREW HOLE

STRAIN RELIEF

POSTS SNAP TO CLOSE BACKSHELL

D-SUB

D-SUB CONNECTORS STRAIN RELIEF Inserting D-Sub Pins: In the manual, a view will be given to inform the builder where to insert d-sub pins. This view will always be from the pin insertion side of the d-sub connector! See Figure 1.

WIRE BUNDLE 15 PIN D-SUB CONNECTOR

RECESS

PIN 1 MALE D-SUB SHOULDER

PIN 1 FEMALE D-SUB

SADDLE WASHER

BOTTOM HALF

LOWER STRAIN RELIEF

JACK SCREW, 2 PLACES WIRE BUNDLE

JACK SCREW, 2 PLACES

PIN INSERTION SIDE TWO PIECE BACKSHELL

CLAMSHELL BACKSHELL

FIGURE 1: INSERTING D-SUB PINS DATE: 07/12/11 REVISION:

5

RV-12

PAGE

05-11

VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. CLOSED BARREL CONNECTORS Closed Barrel Terminals include Ring Terminals, Spade Terminals, and Butt Splices as shown in Figure 2. While the exposed ends may be of a different configuration, the common feature of a closed barrel terminal is a precision-formed metal wire barrel and a copper sleeve encased in insulating material made of nylon, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polyvinyl flouride (PVF ²). The insulation is color coded to correspond with a specific wire size or wire size range.

5W (CONTINUED) ELECTRICAL WIRING NOTES Backshell Assembly: There are a number of connections in the RV-12 which make use of d-sub assemblies sheathed with a backshell. There are a variety of backshell styles, two of which are discussed here and illustrated on Page 05-11, Figure 3. For both styles of backshell, ensure that the wires are properly installed and heat shrink tubing is installed to to secure the wire bundle. The two piece backshell contains two metal strain reliefs. These are secured around the wire bundle with two screws. One screw is installed from the top, and one from the bottom as shown on Page 05-11, Figure 3. Position the strain reliefs so that they will fit the recess in the backshell halves.

These terminals are crimped in two places: first where the wire is stripped and second where the wire insulation fits inside the terminal. The first crimp retains the wire and provides a good electrical connection between the wire conductors and the terminal. The second crimp supports the end of the insulation thus protecting the wire conductors at the end of the insulation where they would otherwise be likely to break. Strip the wire according to the table on Page 05-14 and use the crimp tool called-out in the table on Page 05-14. Install closed barrel terminals as shown in Figure 3. INSULATION WIRE BARREL

Install the d-sub assembly in the bottom half of the backshell. Loosely attach the top and bottom halves of the backshell with the hardware as shown on Page 05-11, Figure 3. Note that one screw is installed from above, and one is installed from below. Pry the backshell halves apart to insert the jack screws through the aft side of the assembled backshell halves. The jack screw shoulder will be captured by the top and bottom backshell halves and extend through the corresponding hole in the d-sub assembly. With the jack screws and saddle washers captured, tighten the top and bottom screws to complete the assembly. See Page 05, Figure 3. The clamshell style backshell has a plastic strain relief that nests in the bottom half of the clamshell and the wire bundle is secured with a metal strain relief on the top as shown on Page 05-11, Figure 3. Jack screws snap into molded receptacles in the bottom half of the clamshell and extend through the holes in the d-sub assembly. To complete assembly the top half of the clamshell is closed and snapped into place with the molded posts and integrated side latch.

COPPER SLEEVE RING TERMINAL

BUTT SPLICE SPADE TERMINAL

SPADE TERMINAL

FIGURE 2: TYPES OF CLOSED BARREL TERMINALS

Shielded Wires: Some wires included in the kit are shielded with braided wire surrounding the main conductor wire(s). Unless otherwise stated all shields are connected to ground at the d-sub connector that the wire is coming from. The shield on the device end of the wire should not be connected to ground. When stripping the inner conductor wire(s) remove and discard the shield as shown in Figure 1. Cover the exposed shield with heat shrink. This will ensure that when the conductor wire is crimped to a connector there will be no possible electrical connection between the connector and the shield or between the shield and the fuselage structure.

TERMINAL INSULATION

TOO LOOSE CRIMP AT WIRE END OF TERMINAL

SMALL AMOUNT OF SPACE BETWEEN WIRE CONDUCTORS AND WIRE BARREL

WIRE INSULATION METAL SLEEVE

CORRECT CRIMP AT WIRE END OF TERMINAL

CONDUCTOR WIRE CONDUCTOR WIRE INSULATION 1 MIN. TOO TIGHT CRIMP AT WIRE END OF TERMINAL

OVERSTRESS MARKS NOT APPARENT ON INSULATION WIRE INSULATION INSIDE METAL SLEEVE BUT NOT INSIDE WIRE BARREL

LENGTH AS REQ'D BRAIDED SHIELD

WIRE FLUSH TO END OF WIRE BARREL OR BOTTOMED ON STOP INSIDE CENTER OF SPLICE

HEAT SHRINK

NO REAR BELLMOUTH

WIRE CONDUCTORS VISIBLE WITHIN THIS AREA FRONT BELLMOUTH EVIDENT

NO FLASH IN THIS AREA

OUTSIDE INSULATION

FIGURE 3: CRIMPING OF CLOSED BARREL TERMINALS PAGE

05-12

RV-12

REVISION:

4

DATE: 07/12/11

VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. Pins supplied in strips are intended for application by automatic machine. The pins come in reels of perhaps 10,000 and feed into the side of an application machine like a chain of cartridges into a machine gun. For our use, we need to cut individual pins apart similar to what you see here. Note that part of the material that joins adjacent pins is left in place. It's too long in this view and will be snipped off again later.

5W (CONTINUED) ELECTRICAL WIRING NOTES OPEN BARREL CONNECTORS The following text has been reproduced from "The AeroElectric Connection" website. Go to: http://aeroelectric.com/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html Special thanks to Bob Nuckolls for allowing us to reproduce this information. Closeup of the business end of our Open Barrel Terminal Crimp Tool. Note that pockets "C", "D" and "E" have "butt-cheeks" formed into the upper surface. These pockets cause the end of wire grip wings to curl over and dive into the approximate center of the wire strands. Pockets "A" and "B" have a smooth, circular shape used to shape the terminal's insulation-grips into a "bear hug" . . .

Strip the wire about 3/32". Note that I've shortened the insulation grip wings on this pin. These connectors are designed for automotive applications where wiring insulation is MUCH larger in diameter than for the same AWG size in aircraft wire. Left full length as supplied, it's difficult if not impossible to get a proper "bear hug" on the wire's insulation.

Here's a typical nylon connector housing and a strip of open barrel pins . . . This particular connector is a Waldom/Molex product purchased in a blisterpak from Radio Shack. The techniques described here are typical for all connectors of this genre . . . If you wish to mount the connector in a hole, the wings visible at the rear of the connector housing can be folded flat against the side of the connector. Barbs molded into the wings will slip through the appropriate sized rectangular hole and hold the housing captive in the hole. Check the original manufacturer's data for recommended hole dimensions.

Now comes the fun part. Grip the pin loosely in pocket "D" with the ends of the wire grip wings pointing toward the pocket's "butt cheeks". Insert the stripped end of the wire so that exposed strands are inside the crimp area. Close the tool while being watchful of dreaded "pin-spin". If things go as they should, ends of wire grip wings will do a 180 degree turn and dive back into the center of the strands from both sides. You'll want to squeeze the tool with as much force as you can with one hand. When you've got a nice LOOKING crimp, put a 5-8 pound pull on the wire to make sure it doesn't pull out easily from under the wire grip. If it does, you need to squeeze harder next time. If left in as-supplied shape, the wire-grip and insulation-grip wings tend to rotate the pin in the tool's dies as they close. This can result in a poorly shaped crimp or even broken wings. Use a pair of pliers to bend the wings into a "U" shape with sides parallel or even tilted inward toward each other slightly.

Use tool pocket "A" to form the insulation-grip wings down onto the wire's insulation. You'll have to rotate the pin in the tool so that ends of the wings are pushed into the circular bottom of the pocket. As the ends of insulation-grip wings collide in the bottom of the pocket - don't compress the tool any further. Take the pin out and use the end pincers of the tool to deflect the end of one insulation grip down against the insulation. Return the pin to pocket "A" and rotate the pin in the pocket as you form the insulation-grip wings down smoothly around the wire. The goal here is very different from the electrical connection. The conductor strands need to be held very tightly while the insulation gets a only snug "bear-hug" as shown here. If you look at similar pins installed on PVC insulated automotive wire, the fabricator may have turned the insulation-grip wings into the insulation not unlike the wire-grip. I DO NOT RECOMMEND this on the aircraft wire - the insulation is too thin. For airplanes we want a simple, snug support of the wire behind the wire-grip without penetrating the insulation. Note also in this view how short the stop tabs are. Trim with caution as you learn how to deal with each style and size of pin. Cut it off too short and the pin will not be properly retained when you install it. If it's too long, it will simply resist insertion into the back of the connector housing.


1

RV-12

PAGE

05-13


TERMINAL INSTALLATION TABLE 5W (CONTINUED) ELECTRICAL WIRING NOTES OPEN BARREL TERMINALS (continued) Now you can install the pin into the connector's housing. In this view, you can see the barbs that snap out to keep the pin from being pulled backwards through the hole. The stop tabs will bottom out in the hole from behind to keep the pin from coming on through. The technique I've just described is typical of the AMP Mate-n-Lock and the larger (.093" pins) sized Waldom/Molex connectors. The smaller Waldom/Molex connectors (.063") pins use pockets "E" for wire grip and "B" for insulation grip. Wires of up to 14AWG and carrying up to 10 Amps may be routed through this style of connector. The wire I illustrated here is 20AWG. Use pocket "C" to crimp 16 and 14AWG wire. 22AWG wire is somewhat dicey in .093" pins. Waldom/Molex connectors also come in a smaller size having a nominal pin diameter of .063". Use pockets "E" and "B" to install the smaller pins like D-subminiature pins found on many instruments and avionics products. Some connectors may be supplied with loose pins. In this case, you will not have to trim the stop tabs - they will be the proper length as supplied. You may still have to shorten either wire grip or insulation grip wings to work well with your wire of choice. It's always a good idea to experiment with extra pins on scraps of wire to see what it takes to achieve the smooth and tight crimp/grip shown in Figure 5. Each manufacturer of these connectors offers an extraction tool that will let you remove a pin without damage for re-use in the same or a different location on the connector. Female pins are installed the same way.

PAGE

05-14 RV-12

REVISION:

1

DATE: 07/12/11

PART NUMBER

NOMENCLATURE

WIRE STRIP LENGTH

RECOMMENDED CRIMPING TOOL

ES-00003

MOLEX PIN .093

.130 -.150

BCT-1

ES-00004

MOLEX SOCKET .093

.130 -.150

BCT-1

ES-00005

MOLEX PIN .093

.130 -.150

BCT-1

ES-00006

MOLEX SOCKET .093

.130 -.150

BCT-1

TOOL USE NOTES

ES-00014

MOLEX PIN .093

.156 -.218

BCT-1

ES-00015

MOLEX SOCKET .093

.156 -.218

BCT-1

ES-00046

MOLEX MICRO-FIT SOCKET

.100 -.115

BCT-1

FOR 26 AWG WIRE DOUBLE STRIP LENGTH & FOLD OVER

ES-00047

MOLEX MICRO-FIT PIN

.100 -.115

BCT-1

FOR 26 AWG WIRE DOUBLE STRIP LENGTH & FOLD OVER

ES-00079

FLOATING CONNECTOR PIN

.150

BCT-1

ES-00080

FLOATING CONNECTOR PIN

.150

BCT-1

ES-31890

RING TERMINAL, #8

.203 -.234

TH-450

ES-31906

RING TERMINAL, 1/4

.203 -.234

TH-450

ES-320559

BUTT SPLICE

.250 -.281

TH-450

ES-320562

BUTT SPLICE

.250 -.281

TH-450

ES-320565

RING TERMINAL, #8

.203 -.234

TH-450

ES-320571

RING TERMINAL, 1/4

.203 -.234

TH-450

ES-320619

RING TERMINAL, #6

.203 -.234

TH-450

ES-321045

RING TERMINAL, 1/4

.203 -.234

TH-450

ES-323990

RING TERMINAL, #10

.188 -.219

TH-450

ES-324043

RING TERMINAL, #10

.313 -.344

TH-450

ES-324044

RING TERMINAL, 5/16

.313 -.344

TH-450

ES-324082

RING TERMINAL, 1/4

.313 -.344

TH-450

ES-36152

RING TERMINAL, #6

.203 -.234

TH-450

ES-36154

RING TERMINAL, #10

.203 -.234

TH-450

ES-421-0107

SPADE TERMINAL

.203 -.234

TH-450

ES-421-0108

SPADE TERMINAL

.203 -.234

TH-450

ES-640903-2

SPADE TERMINAL

.203 -.234

TH-450

ES DV18-188-M

SPADE TERMINAL

.203 -.234

TH-450

VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. 5X COMPRESSION FITTINGS IN PLASTIC TUBING NAS1149 AND AN960 WASHER SUBSTITUTION Tightening the Fittings: Finger tighten compression fittings then turn 1 full turn to install. See Figure 1 Steps 1-3 for further assembly instructions. Use the instructions of Steps 1-3 to attach the compression end fittings.

NAS1149 washers may be used anywhere a AN960 washer is called for. However, DO NOT use a AN960 washer where a NAS1149 washer is specified. Manufacturing tolerances for the NAS1149 washers are tighter than are those for the AN960 washers.

SLEEVE (INCLUDED WITH ELBOW ASSEMBLY)

PLASTIC TUBE

Step 1: Slide the nut and sleeve over the plastic tube, then locate the sleeve about 1/8 inch from the end.

NUT (INCLUDED WITH ELBOW ASSEMBLY)

APPROX. 1/8

Step 2: Press the insert into the end of the plastic tube as far as possible by pushing it against some solid object.

BRASS INSERT Step 3: Place the end of the assembly in boiling water for about a minute, then immediately press the insert in the rest of the way until it bottoms against the end of the plastic tube.

BRASS ELBOW NUT WITH SLEEVE ATTACHED (INCLUDED WITH ELBOW ASSEMBLY) BRASS INSERT

BRASS 45° ELBOW

5Y O-RING SEAL FITTING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: TO COMPONENT OR FITTING Step 1: Remove male fitting from assembly as shown in Figure 2. Step 2: Install (hand tight) male fitting into mating component or fitting (not shown). Step 3: Install nut, metal keeper, collar and O-ring seal from assembly onto male fitting so that three threads of male fitting are visible.

Step 8: Tighten nut by hand. Additional tightening should not be necessary, but 1/4 additional turn may be added if desired. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN nut or threads will strip and fitting will not function properly. A proper assembly will not show insertion mark extending beyond nut. If insertion mark is visible, then repeat this step.

NAS Part No.

AN960-4L AN9604 AN960-6 AN960-8 AN960-10L AN960-10 AN960-416L AN960-416 AN960-516L AN960-516 AN960-616L AN960-616 AN960-716 AN960-816L AN960-816 AN960-916 AN960-1016 AN960-1216 AN960-2016

NAS1149FN416P NAS1149FN432P NAS1149FN632P NAS1149FN832P NAS1149F0332P NAS1149F0363P NAS1149F0432P NAS1149F0463P NAS1149F0532P NAS1149F0563P NAS1149F0632P NAS1149F0663P NAS1149F0763P NAS1149F0832P NAS1149F0863P NAS1149F0963P NAS1149F1063P NAS1149F1290P NAS1149F2090P

MALE FITTING (STRAIGHT SHOWN, ELBOW, TEE, ETC. SIMILAR)

O-RING SEAL

Step 4: Cut tube squarely and deburr.

COLLAR

Step 5: Mark from end of tube the length of insertion. See Figure 2.

METAL KEEPER

Step 6: Moisten end of tube with water. Step 7: Push tube straight into fitting until it bottoms on fitting's shoulder.

AN Part No.

NUT 9/16

PLASTIC TUBE


0

RV-12

PAGE

05-15

VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. SOME NOTES ON TAPS A "tap" is the tool used to put internal threads in a hole. Taps come in several styles. The most common hardware store variety is a four-flute tap. The flute is the groove along the length of the tool. When using a tap on metal, some lubricant should be used. Common motor oil is OK for steel, kerosene works well on aluminum. Plastic needs no lubricant.

5Z DRILLING, TAPS AND DIES The hardness and alloy of the material and the makeup of the cutting tool determine the speed that metal is drilled. For the purpose of this discussion, we assume that the drill used is High Speed Steel (HSS). Cutting speed is stated in surface feet per minute or abbreviated as FPM. Simply put, that is the speed that the cutting tool passes through the material being cut. Softer materials can be cut at a higher speed than harder materials. Smaller drills have to turn faster than larger drills to achieve the same FPM cutting speed. For the most part, the materials we are concerned with in RV construction are aluminum and steel. The aluminum is of various alloys, but we can use 200 FPM as a cutting speed for all of them. The steel is 4130 chrome molybdenum alloy. We can use a cutting speed of 60 FPM for 4130. Drilling most of the aluminum in RV construction can be done dry, without any oils or cutting fluid. When drilling holes more than three diameters deep, a few drops of kerosene or Boelube helps. For holes larger than 1/4" in thin material a "Unibit" makes a cleaner hole. Steel is best drilled with at least some oil. You can use most any oil, WD-40 etc. There is no need to get sloppy, just enough to lubricate and carry off some heat. Drilling steel requires considerably more feed pressure than aluminum. The chart below is general and you can interpolate speeds for sizes not listed. As you can see the speeds for drilling aluminum are higher than any of our hand held drills are likely to go. That's why an air drill is superior to electric drills for aluminum. It is also assumed that the drills are sharp and the setup is rigid, as in a drill press.

Drill RPM #40

#30

#12

Drill Size

0.098

0.128

0.189

0.250

0.375

0.500

Material Aluminum (200 FPM)

7796

5946

4198

3056

1748

1528

Steel (60 FPM)

2339

1784

1213

917

611

459

When drilling with a hand drill it is advisable to start the drill turning slowly, then increase the RPM after the drill is centered and stabilized in the hole. You can drill a straight hole by aligning the drill with the reflection in the shiny aluminum. The small drills that we use in RV building are of the split point style and need special equipment to sharpen. You may need as many as a dozen each of #30 and #40 before the project is finished. Don't skimp on drills, when it gets dull get a new one. See Section 5U for tips on drilling Plexiglass. DRILLING TERMINOLOGY To drill a part means to begin with dimensions and material, mark and center punch the location of the hole, and drill through the material. Match-drill refers to drilling a stack of two or more parts in which a hole is already located in the first part. Drilling through the existing hole in the first part results in a matching hole(s) in the other part(s) in the stack. Final-drill refers to drilling one or more parts that already have a hole in the location to be drilled. A final pass is made through the existing hole with the specified size drill bit. Deburr all drilled holes (section 5B) before dimpling or riveting.

PAGE

05-16 RV-12

REVISION:

0

DATE: 07/12/11

Getting the tap straight in the hole is most important. The reason most taps get broken is due to misalignment. The best way to get the tap straight is to use a drill press. Clamp the work in a vise and with the tap in the chuck, turn the chuck by hand. When tapping a deep hole it is best to back the tap out about one turn to every two turns in. That way the chips that the tap cuts are allowed to clear from the flutes. Don't allow the tap to get stuck by turning too many times without clearing. This is another reason for broken taps. An 8-32 tap means that the screw size is #8 and it has 32 threads per inch (pitch). Fractional sizes like ¼-20 means that the screw is 1/4" and has 20 threads per inch.

CONCLUSION The manual now changes from general information to specific building instructions for the empennage of your new airplane. The information is presented in logical, step-by-step order. This DOES NOT mean that the construction sequence given is the only way to do things; depending on factors like available help, available space, or just personal preference, you might well alter some procedures with good results. It does not mean, either, that you should simply follow the instructions blindly, one step at a time, without thinking ahead. Successful use of this manual requires your active participation. Before you begin building, READ THE ENTIRE SECTION. Read it two or three times. Visualize the operations described, think about what might come next, consider what consequence your actions might have. NEVER do anything in a hurry. A great deal of a homebuilder's time is spent staring into space, making odd motions with the hands as he or she imagines how things might fit together. This is not wasted time! It is essential to forming a clear mental image of the task ahead. Read Section 5 again and be familiar with the proper techniques needed for construction.