Installation Manual V4 - Vegistroke

Installation Manual V4 - Vegistroke http://www.biofuelstechnologies.com

For 1999-2005 7.3L/6.0L Ford/Navistar engines

Table of Contents Table of Contents Chapter 2: Installing Engine Modifications - 7.3L Chapter 3: Installing Engine Modifications - 6.0L Chapter 4: Installing V4 Manifold and Hoses * Chapter 5: Wiring Instructions Chapter 6: Operation Instructions Chapter 7: Tank Installation Chapter 8: Preventative Maintenance of your Vegistroke system

http://www.biofuelstechnologies.com

Chapter 1: Before You Get Started Before you dive in, take a moment and prepare yourself... First, let us thank you for buying the best, most practical and reliable kit available for your 7.3L and 6.0 Powerstroke Diesel engine. The installation of this kit is relatively straightforward, and involves the installation of the individual components, the hook up of the fuel plumbing, and finally, the wiring of the system. Persons wishing to install this system on their own should have a basic knowledge of engines and fuel systems and at least be familiar with the operation of a voltmeter/ multimeter and should have an assortment of basic “DIY” garage tools available. Recommended tools and Items for Installation: ● ●

● ● ● ●

Combination Wrenches ○ ⅞”, ¾”, 11/16”, 9/16”, 5/16”, ½” ⅜ Drive ratchets and sockets ○ 3” and 6” Extensions ○ 3/4, 9/16, 7/16, 15mm, 13mm, 10mm, 8mm 6mm L type Allen wrench Hose Cutter #2 Flat and Phillips Screwdrivers Good quality wire strippers and crimpers

● ● ● ● ● ●

Basic Multimeter Dremel tool with cutting disc attachment Fine point Sharpie Marker Vice Grips Pick Set Ford Stereo removal tool (may or may not be necessary depending upon your choice of switch mounting location)

As you browse this instruction manual, keep in mind that some of the manifold photographs might look a little different from the unit in front of you. As additional installation pictures become available of the V4 unit, this manual will be updated. In the meantime, some of the manifold pictures may be that of the V3 unit with a slightly different looking pump. Not to worry... the orientation and shape of the V4 manifold is the same. The V4 Manifold represents the latest in our manifold designs, allowing for additional heat transfer, more efficient fuel pathing (resulting in lower fuel pressure drops), and the ability to be re-configured to either a “Dead Head” (Ford Powerstroke) plumbing configuration, or a “Common Rail/Regulated Return” (Dodge Cummins) configuration. For the “DeadHead” design, there will be fuel ports on the front and rear of the manifold that are capped off and not used.


Chapter 2: Installing Engine Modifications 7.3L This installation section represents the only place in which you will touch the stock fuel system. Here you will be installing the supplied check valves between the factory check valve and the fuel port in the head.

Engine disassembly as of step #9. (Note for this photo the installer chose NOT to remove the passenger turbo intake tube). The red circle points to the location of the passenger rear fuel line. 1. Disconnect the batteries.


2. 3. 4. 5.

Remove the air filter inlet tube. Remove the decorative cover using a 13mm socket. Remove the serpentine belt by turning the belt-tensioner counter-clockwise Using an 11mm deep socket, loosen the hose clamps on the boost pipes from the manifold and the intercooler on both the driver and the passenger side. Carefully work the pipes out from the engine and set aside. 6. Spray Brake Kleen on the rear fuel line and head area to remove any oil and sediment. 7. Using a 9/16” wrench, remove teh fuel line and from the passenger rear head. (This is a TRICKY STEP AND REQUIRES PATIENCE!) In some cases, removal of the turbo downpipe may be necessary if the threads on the head are unable to line up with your wrench. 8. Remove the fuel line retaining clamp using a 10mm wrench or socket wrench. 9. Use a 9/16” deep socket to remove the factory fitting from the head. Screw the OEM fitting into the ⅛” check valve with Locktite sealant #545 (included). DO NOT USE PLUMBERS TAPE OR TEFLON TAPE. IT WILL DISSOLVE AND PLUG YOUR INJECTORS). Now, carefully replace the fitting and the check valve assembly back into the port/head from which it was removed. a. Additional Note: we use Locktite 545 as our thread sealant. This is NOT THE SAME as “Locktite Red”, even though “545” is the same in color. Do NOT use “LOCKTITE RED” as your thread sealant, as you will never be able to separate these components. 10. Before replacing the fuel line back on the factory fitting, remove the degraded factory O-ring and replace it with the new one supplied. Sometimes the O-ring can become lodged in the nut. Use a pick to help remove it. 11. Finally, replace the fuel line retaining bracket. Replacing the fuel line may require some light bending of the fuel line to help line up the nut on the fitting. (TIP: Use a pick to hold the rubber seal in place while you unscrew the nut from around the rubber sleeve). 12. Repeat this process for the driver’s front fuel line. You will find it much easier if you remove teh serpentine belt, as stated in step 4, and loosen the Alternator/Power Steering assembly. There are 4 13mm bolts holding this assembly in place. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the steel line in place to allow easier alignment of the fuel line. Once the Check Valve is intsalled, you are now done modifying the factory fuel system. Reinstall the ALT/PS bracket.


Photo of the driver’s front stock fuel line with the new check valve installed. Power Steering Assembly has been unbolted and moved forward.


13. Now we will install the WVO feed lines for the previously unused fuel ports on the passenger front and driver’s rear. remove the A/C bracket for access to the front fuel port by removing the 4 13mm bolts in roughtly the same spots as on the power steering bracket. Will require moving the belt tensioner to access the 4th bracket bolt. 14. We’ve had the best luck in using a good quality 6” crescent wrench to break loose the plug and then use a 5/16th wrench to remove the ⅛” pipe plug from the fuel port. Install the ⅛”npt to #4 JIC adapter in the port. Tighten very snug. 15. Place the #4 JIC elbow on the adapter pointing to the rear. This may be a tight fit between the HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) reservoir and the fitting, but it will fit. Do not tighten this down yet. 14. Next thread the shorter 1/4” fuel line from the newly installed fitting back to the engine pulling bracket on the passenger rear. Here you will place a #6 “T” that will connect the driver’s side (in the next step) and be fed from the WVO pump. Now you can tighten connections. 15. Replace the A/C assembly. 16. Repeat this task for the driver’s rear fuel port. Connect longer ¼” hose and route around the front of the turbo, under the intake tube, and to the #6 “T” on the passenger bank. Then connect preassembled ⅜” hose to the T and route down to the Frame module location to be connected later.

WVO line tapped into front driver’s side


The completed T assembly should look like this 17. Run Heater hose ends from tank location along frame towards front of vehicle.TIP: Use a 3” hose saw in the bed on the passenger side where the bed starts to curve up to make a hole for the hoses. Install anti-chaffing material or use a piece of hose with a slit. 18. Route ends up to OEM heater hoses and in back passenger corner on engine bay. Cut each heater hose once, and install the T’s (with clamps). Tighten down. Make note of which hose is connected to the hose coming from the block (hot).. This will be connected to the V4 manifold on the Frame. On Excursions and 2003 and newer 6.0’s there is a heater hose valve installed in the area of the passenger side valve cover. Make sure to install the hose T on the engine side of this cutoff, or toward the front of the vehicle. NOTE: the coolant flows from the BLOCK, through the HEATER CORE, and back in though the WATER PUMP. 19. Run Heater hose ends from tank location along frame towards front of vehicle.TIP: Use a 3” hose saw in the bed on the passenger side where the bed starts to curve up to make a hole for the hoses. Install anti-chaffing material or use a piece of hose with a slit. 20. Replace the turbo intercooler boost tubes. At this point the motor should be completely reassembled, with the exception of the PSD decorative cover and air filter inlet tube.


Chapter 3: Installing Engine Modifications 6.0L Here you will be installing the engine modifications required for the 6.0L engine. The steps are few, but require patience.

1. Replace the OEM banjo bolt check valves with the Vegistroke-supplied check valves 2. The banjo bolts are located on the front of each head just below the aluminum valve cover. The drivers side is accessed by removing the air filter housing and is located just behind the coolant hose. Removal and replacement is much easier with the hose removed, but it is possible without removing the hose. If you elect to remove the hose, drain the radiator first to reduce the amount of coolant leaked when the hose is removed. Do not replace the Air filter until after the heater hoses are connected. 3. Remove the OEM banjo bolt and copper crush rings. Locate the replacement bolts that look similar to the OEM ones. The hollow bolts are for the rear ports. There should be a sealing washer on both sides of the bolts. Make sure to use some provided loctite thread sealant on the banjo bolt. It may help to loosen the end of the line at the filter to allow more play in the fuel line when lining up the Banjo Bolts again.


Chapter 4: Installing V4 Manifold and Hoses This installation section will guide you through the mounting the manifold unit and running the coolant and fuel hoses.

1. Install the 3 black vibration dampers supplied on the bottom of the V4 manifold. There will be 45/16” bolt holes on the side opposite of the logo. Be sure to install them in the 3 holes closest to the filter head section. Install the supplied Aluminum mounting plate using the supplied nuts. It can only go on one way, so there is no getting it backwards. The current mounting plates have an offset to them to allow more clearance. The offset should be down. Do not use washers if supplied in the kits. The holes are precision cut and the washers will prevent the locknut from engaging properly. 2. Remove two bolts from the bottom of the frame on the passenger side at the transmission cross member. This is where the V4 will mount. Now install the V4 as shown below. Excursions will have bolts, but same thing applies. Remove bolts-install manifold, replace transmission bolts. 3. Connect the precut 3/8” hose you installed on the engine earlier to the forward facing JIC fitting. The hose will not reach any farther,so it is difficult to connect it to the wrong port. 4. Find the heater hose you marked earlier as the one coming from the block, and cut and connect it to the V4 at “coolant in”. If you are using coolant to heat the tank, run the hoses back to the tank. If not, then connect the rear facing port of the V4 to the other hose from the motor. 5. Make sure to run the fuel and heater hoses together as much as possible. Ensure ALL the hoses are wrapped from the tank to the rear of the V4 manifold. It is not normally required to wrap the hoses between the engine and V4.


6. Install 3/8” JIC barbed fitting on the 3/8” fuel hose. (The easiest way to do this is to pinch the hose snug in avice, and use a rubber mallet or soft-blow hammer to drive in the fitting). Using some oil or other lubricant will eases fitting installation as well. Route this hose from the frame mounted V4 to the tank. On the rear of the V4 are two fuel ports. The one labeled “FUEL IN” gets the ⅜ hose. The one labeled “TANK” is the return to the tank and uses 1/4” hose. 7. Using the same process as step 2, install barb fitting and route 1/4” fuel hose from the tank to the “tank” port on the V4.


Chapter 5: Wiring Instructions This installation section details the process of wiring together the Vegistroke unit to the battery and gauges NOTE: You will also want to read more about the SSB installation with the SSB Install Manual. You can find this manual listed in the DOCUMENTS section of: http:// www.biofuelstechnologies.com

Switches are shown for a manual truck. Can also be mounted to the left of the area shown. 1. First, find a suitable location to mount the switches. The easiest install is in the fuse panel cover under the steering column. For a more professional look, you may install them in the flat spot just to the right of the steering column Make sure there is adequate clearance behind the mounting location. If you go this route, you will need to remove the stereo with the tool available from most parts stores (two “U” shaped pieces of metal rod). On 2005 and newer truck the stereo will not need to be removed. Then the Dash will literally pop out.. There are no screws retaining the dash, only spring clips. Unplug all connectors, then measure and cut. Make sure to check clearance behind dash where the back of the switches will be. Typically the switches are installed as shown in the picture.


a. Note: Be sure to remove any CD’s that may be in the stereo prior to removal. The CD could become lodged in teh deck and cause it to jam when reinstalled and powered up. 2. Find a suitable location for your SSB box under the dash, and secure with zip ties or screws. 3. From the picture of the SSB and included wiring harness, look at #5. This is the collection of wires that will be tapped into your truck’s wiring.

1. PURPLE WIRE- This wire is used for your fuel level sender. Connect to the purple wire for the fuel level gauge harness. 2. RED WIRE - This wire is for your 12V “key sense” ignition wire. This is an important wire to get correct for proper operation. The wire for this is in a group of customer access wires that is likely tied up on the OBDII wire loom just above the transmission tunnel on the drivers side, under the dash. One usually has shrink wrap on the end from the factory. a. For 1999-2001, the wire will be Pink w/ a Blue Stripe. b. On 2002 and new models, it should be White w/ a Blue stripe. This is a factory Customer access wire. The fuse position for this on 1999-2002 trucks is 27, and 29 for 2002-2007. c. Excursion: On 2000-2001 Excursions, this wire will be in the same location, however, it will be WHITE w/ a BLACK Stripe. Fuse locations are the same. d. IMPORTANT! You must use the correct wire or your system will not know when the truck has been turned on or off. 3. YELLOW - Engine Run. The yellow wire needs to be tapped into the PCM (or ECU) power so that the SSB can continue to provide power to your truck’s computer after the key has been pulled from the ignition. In some cases, this wire will be under the dash. In other cases, this wire might be under the hood. Depending upon your truck, you may have to splice in additional wire (using supplied butt-connectors) to extend the length of the yellow wire to under your hood. a. 1999-2001 7.3- Extend the yellow wire from under the dash to under the hood through the firewall and hook to a WHITE WIRE w/ a BLUE STRIPE located on teh bottom of the fuse block. You will need to remove the fuse box and the bottom cover to access this wire. The


fuse box is held in place by four spring clips- one on each corner. The best place to tap into is the White with Light Blue wire running from the PCM diode to the PCM relay. Refer to owner’s manual for exact locations. To prevent an SES light, Excursions will need to tap into the red/light green wire opposite the white/blue wire. b. 2002 and up, 7.3 and 6.0: Connect the yellow wire to a RED/LIGHT GREEN (7.3) or a WHITE/YELLOW (6.0) wire. These wires are both located at pin 4 of plug 270C on the Central Junction box (fuse box) located under the dash on the driver’s side. This fuse box comes out with the removal of a total of 8 bolts/spring clips.




4. Run the Master Wiring harness. In the cab, locate the shift cable grommet in the drivers floor below the gas pedal. Pull back the carpet a bit to expose and pull grommet out of hole. Or another option as well is on most trucks there is a plugged off hole in the Firewall just to the outside of the brake booster. On the 99-01 models it is behind the underhood fuse panel. 5. Run Master Vegistroke harness from frame module along transmission cross-member giving clearance to the exhaust and the driveshaft, then along the frame to the pass through location of your choice. The main harness has a 6 pin, 2 pin ,and 1 pin plug, a ground and blue and yellow auxiliary wires on the end that goes in the cab. The frame end consists of 5-2 pins, and 1 pin plug along with a ground and the other end of the yellow and blue auxiliary wires. Refer to picture for plug labeling. In the middle are a black and green wire that will connect to the OEM fuel pump on the drivers side Frame rail just beneath the drivers seat. Pop out the grommet and feed the plug through. Leave as is for the time being. 6. Now, from the inside, use a knife to carefully slice the grommet to accommodate the wires, Or a dremel to modify the hard plastic firewall plug. and then place back in position. Run wires up along shift cable and zip tie. Plug into electronics module loom. Wiring is nearly done. 4. Run the BATTERY TO BRAIN wiring harness from under your hood to underneath your dash. The end with the ring terminals will attach to your battery, while the other end will attach to the “HIGH POWER” plug in the SSB unit itself. 5. DON'T BE STUPID ---> DO NOT HOOK UP THE RING TERMINALS TO YOUR BATTERY YET. Only run the main power line at this time 7. Your kit should have also included a DIODE retro-fit package. This diode protects your system from power spikes generated from your stock diesel pump when it is powered off by the V4. a. 7.3L users - to install the diode, simply attach the ring terminal of the RED wire of the diode to the + terminal of the stock diesel pump, and the BLACK wire of the diode to the terminal of the stock diesel pump. b. 6.0L users - to install the diode, you will have to cut the ring terminals from the diode fitting and use either the included set of T-taps, or butt connectors and heat-shrink tubing to connect to the stock fuel pump. The RED WIRE of the diode should attach to the GREEN WIRE of the fuel pump, and the BLACK wire of the diode should connect to the BLACK WIRE of the fuel pump. 8. Reinstall the fuse panel cover and you are done.


Diode attached to a 7.3L pump


Diode attached to a 6.0L fuel pump


Tapping into your fuel pump wiring: In order to allow your Vegistroke unit to control your stock diesel pump, the green/black wires must be spliced into the power feed to your stock pump. Take note: this does NOT mean that “one wire connects to positive, and the other wire connects to negative”. Rather, we are “inserting” the green/black wires into the single power feed for the stock diesel power feed. To better illustrate, see the photo below:



Chapter 6: Operation Instructions This section documents operation and use of the Vegistroke system in automatic mode Operation of the automatic is very simple to use, and with the OLED display and SSB very straight forward to troubleshoot. Overview - You will have two switches, one with a single green lens that is a 3 way On-Off-Auto switch and the other is a Manual purge Momentary on-off switch. The lighted switch is the main control switch. It is typically installed as the left switch with the green box down. When the switch is in the position opposite of the green box, the system is in automatic mode. (You can use the OLED display to verify rocker switch position). When in the automatic position, the SSB will control all aspects of WVO operation, from start to finish. When the green light is on (on the switch, during automatic mode) and the OLED displays “AUTO-ON”, it indicates that the truck has achieved both temperature and pressure and is running solely on WVO. The system will continue on WVO so long as three criteria are met: key power is supplied to the electronics module (key is in the ignition and in the ON position), sufficient temperature has been achieved, and sufficient pressure is achieved by the WVO pump. If either temperature or pressure falls below the required thresholds (140-160* or below 55psi), then the GREEN LIGHT will turn off, and the system will once again return to a state where it is burning diesel fuel while waiting for these inputs to be re-established. Once the system has come on, and the truck is shut off (the key is removed from the system, the SSB will initiate the automatic shut-down process. During this process, the system will purge the WVO out of the fuel rails by opening up the solenoid on the manifold for about 8-10 seconds, and then continue to run for ~90 seconds. The 10 second purge is to “flush” diesel out of the heads and fuel lines, and the additional 90 seconds is to ensure diesel has also gone through the injectors. Once this cycle is complete, the truck is ready for the next duty cycle, and will kill power to the PCM relay (thus stopping the engine). You may bypass this if needed by flipping the switch to the middle position which is the OFF position. This will turn the system completely off, no purge, no extended run. This is particularly useful at drive-up windows, where you may need to kill the truck quickly and for a short time. If flipped to the green box side, this is manual on and will bypass the temperature switch. This should only be used for troubleshooting, or purging the air from a new filter. The solid black switch is for manual purge. This is primarily for purging air from the new filter, or for manual operation in case of automatic control failure. NOTE: When manual on is selected, the green light will be turned on regardless of system condition.


Initial Startup - With previous V1 and V2 kits, a manual air purge was necessary upon changing your WVO filter. With the V3 and V4, however, the manual air purge is no longer required. Because a small amount of fuel is always being returned back to the WVO tank, air is automatically bled from the system. The system will come on and purge itself once up to temperature. You should however still purge the air from the diesel lines after installation. Turn the Key on, engine off. Hold the manual purge button for about 10 seconds, and you are done. The system should come on in roughly 5-7 miles. If not on after 10 miles, then check system. Filter Changes - You will know it is time to change the filter when the green square system light shuts off or flashes under heavy acceleration. When you change the filter you will want a catch pan under the frame, or be someplace where you do not mind WVO getting on the ground. Remove the old filter and dispose. Install new filter and drive away. The V4 manifold will automatically purge the air out of the new filter.


V4 Recommended Maintenance Schedule

Maintenance Procedure After First 100 miles

1000 miles

First 10,000 miles

Every 25,000 miles or 6 months

Clean and inspect Prescreen ²

x

x

x

Test engine shutdown time with stopwatch.

x

x

Clean and inspect check valve, purge solenoid, and pressure regulator.³

x

x

x

x

Check fuel pressure Inspect all hoses, fittings and connections for leaks, kinks, chaffing, proximity to exhaust.

Every 50,000 miles or annually

x

Replace Donaldson Filter¹

Inspect wiring for chaffes, corrosion, loose connections or hot/melted wiring

Every 6,000 miles/ 3 months

x

x

1. Filters should easily last 5,000 miles. More frequent changes indicate poor oil quality and can eventually damage system and engine components. 2. The prescreen is not a normal service item. A dirty prescreen indicates poor filtering and eventually will


damage system and engine components. 3. Parts should be free from buildup and debris. Any buildup usually indicates wet fuel and poor filtering. These are an accurate indicator of condition of fuel system parts in engine-injectors, injection pump, etc. early detection and correction of filtering methods are critical to ensure long system and engine fuel system life.


Chapter 7: Tank Installation This section details tank installations and hookups

1. All current pickup tanks are bed mount tanks with the fittings on the drivers side. All tanks have mounting tabs on the side of the tank to ensure ease of access underneath the tank for the hold down bolts. If you bought a tank with the system you should have received a tank kit pack with 4-5/16” nuts and bolts as well as various barbed fittings.

2. First run the hoses into the bed from the passenger side. Drilling a 3” hole will fit all hoses for all years. For a more snug fit use a 2-3/4” hole saw on trucks with the 7.3 since those trucks use a smaller 5/8 heater hose instead of the 3/4” hose for the 6.0. The best location for drilling this hole is on a flat curved panel on the passenger side of the bed where the bed starts to curve up to the sidewall as shown in the picture. Make sure to use the supplied grommet material (coming soon) or if none supplied, then slice a piece of leftover 1/ 4” fuel line down the middle and line the edge of the hole. Then run the hoses across the front of the tank to the drivers side. This also ensures adequate space between the tank and the bed. DO NOT use the factory holes in the front of the bed. There is not enough room to clear the hoses between the bed and the body weld seam without chaffing the hoses.


3. It is usually easier to drill the 5/16” holes in the mounting tabs prior to locating the tank. Once the hoses have been run into the bed, position the tank where it will be mounted, running the hoses between the tank and the bed. Make sure there are no sharp bends or kinks in the hose. Then wrap the hose with insulation up to the point where they will go onto the tank. This may take some time to ensure the best appearance based upon the tank you have. Make sure to minimize the Exposed amount of 3/8” fuel supply hose. 4. Tank Connections. The 1/2” ports are always coolant ports. You will connect the heater hose to these. The fitting with the barb on it is the vent. DO NOT connect the return to this port. The vent has a checkball inside that will prevent flow back into the tank. The 1/4” port is for the fuel return and the 3/8” port is for the fuel pickup. Some tanks were manufactured with 2-3/8” ports. On elbows: One will be a return, one will be a pickup. You may have to remove this fitting to find the one that has the pickup tube attached. 5. Connect the fuel level sender. Included with your kit should have been a long two wire harness, one black and one purple. One end has a single wire plug on the purple, and a ring terminal on the black. This is run to the V4 manifold. The other end gets connected to the fuel level sender. The plugs may not match. If not cut of the plug on the harness and connect directly the fuel level sender wires. Polarity does not matter. 6. Bolt down your tank and you are set.


Chapter 8: Preventative Maintenance of your Vegistroke system Things to be aware of down the road We’ve made every attempt to make your Vegistroke system as easy and straightforward to use as possible... but just as your truck requires preventative maintenance (such as periodic fluid changes), your Vegistroke will require periodic TLC to keep it top working condition. Please keep in mind that each of these items are guidelines and recommendations, not hard numbers. As each person’s truck, driving habits, ambient temperature, and grease quality differs, so do these preventative maintenance intervals. (The user who drives a thousand miles a day on nonhydrogenated oil will obviously have a much different preventative maintenance schedule then the man who drives 10 miles a day on pure chicken fat). The primary purpose is to keep your mind aware of the following items so that there are fewer surprises down the road. 1) WVO Fuel Filter: Your WVO fuel filter will be the most common item replaced in your V4 system. Frequency of your filter changes will heaviliy depend upon your filtering methods and the quality of the grease used. (Persons using non-hydrogenated cooking oil run through a centrifuge in the middle of summer can expect to achieve a much different filter life than, say, a person hell-bent on filtering raw chicken fat from KFC gravity-fed through mosquito netting in the middle of winter). It is highly recommended that a fuel pressure gauge is installed in the manifold to help diagnose fuel pressure problems and to monitor when the filter should be changed. If no fuel pressure gauge is installed, users may see the green light “flash” on the switches, as the system is struggling against a plugged filter versus the load placed on the truck. 2) Pre-screen mesh: The pre screen mesh is accessed via the large allen wrench included with your kit. The plug is located on your manifold, and is intended to be the first line of defense against any misc “tank trash” that might make its way into your system.


Over time, with the constant “heating and cooling” cycles of the grease in your system, the pre-screen mesh will begin to polymerize and clog. The pre-screen mesh should be removed and inspected at least annually to ensure that it is not restrictive to grease flow. This screen can be soaked in gasoline to try to dissolve any polymerized oil that may have accumulated on the screen, or replacement screens can also be purchased from BFT. Expected life for a pre-screen filter is about 1-2 years. 3) Manifold Check Valve: The check valve is also located on the manifold, and can be removed with a standard socket wrench. Like the pre-screen, this check valve accumulates polymerized grease over time from continual “heating and cooling cycles”. Over time, the check valve may stick open, allowing diesel fuel to enter your WVO fuel tank. The check valve should be removed and inspected annually. The plunger operation of the check valve should be checked to ensure that it still opens/closes with no sticking or restriction. If cleaning is necessary for the check valve, it can be soaked in gasoline or carb-cleaner to try to dissolve the accumulated polymerized build up. Replacement manifold check valves are also available for purchase from BFT. Expected life for a manifold check valve (with annual cleaning) is about 2-3 years. (Shorter if no cleaning is done). 4) Pressure switch: The pressure switch is located on the manifold. There is no maintenance that can be done to the pressure switch, however the user should be aware that the pressure switch is rated for 500,000 duty cycles. Each time the pressure crosses the 55psi “threshold” (going above or below), a duty cycle is consumed. As your WVO fuel filter becomes clogged on your V4 unit, you might start to see your green light “flash” on your system as it struggles to maintain fuel pressure. While 500,000 duty cycles may seem like a lot, keep a simple example in mind: a user that allows his fuel filter to become plugged and ‘bounce around’ that 55psi threshold, causing his green light to blink at about the rate of once per second is consuming 3600 pressure switch cycles PER HOUR. Users that keep clean filters on their truck can expect many years of life out of their pressure switch. Users that allow their fuel pressure to “bounce around” that threshold can expect a severaly shortened pressure switch lifespan. 5) Fuel and coolant lines: the fuel and and coolant lines for your V4 are not unlike any other stock fuel or coolant lines in any other vehicle: they are subject to cracking and brittleness over time. It’s a good idea to inspect your fuel and coolant lines annually to ensure they are still flexible and not subject to cracking. 6) Diesel fuel filter: it’s easy to forget that while your truck it burning significant amounts of free fuel, it’s still burning diesel during the startup and shutdown process. Miles are not the only thing that kill filters, it’s also TIME. It’s generally recommended changing out your stock diesel fuel filter every 15,000 miles. While burning on grease, it’s generally recommended that you make this an annual


process.


Installation Manual V4 - Vegistroke

Installation Manual V4 - Vegistroke

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