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Contents

AUGUST 2012

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22

ON THE COVER

Volume 22 • Number 6 • Our 185th Issue With little in common but a pair of wheels and 45 degree V-Twin motors, our two cover bikes span more than a half century of Harley-Davidson history, nearly 4,000 miles of earth's surface, and a huge stylistic range of what passionate people are doing to their bikes. But don't let that distract you. Whether you're entranced by the slinky metalflake allure of Boccin Custom Cycles' '46 Knuck or find yourself drooling over the streetwise cool of Hoxie's Shadley Bros Road Glide, we've got something delicious for you to sink your teeth into. Read on!

FEATURE BIKES

FEATURE STORIES

South African Hot Rod .............................8

Donnie Smith Show 2012 ......................32

Diversity personified

Milestones and mentoring

Metalflake Knuckle ................................22

The Quail Gathering ...............................74

Let the motorcycle do the talking

The Pebble Beach of bike shows

Shovelhead Sidecar Outfit.......................24

DEPARTMENTS

From father to son

Soulful Shovel .......................................28 Bling’s Cycle goes heavy metal

Shadley Bros Road Glide ........................38 Well ridden and never done

Ultimate Showstopper ...........................44 From T-n-A Customs

Led Sled Gets Back ...............................48 A Shovelhead-looking Sportster

Letters ................................................18 Readers report in

Made in the USA ...................................52 Rinehart Racing roars along

Induction & Exhaust Buyer’s Guide...........68 What goes in must come out

Seasoned Citizens .................................76 1911 Pope

IW GARAGE

IW Eye .................................................82

IW Product Review ................................36 Motorcycle armor for your bike’s hard bags

REGULARS

DP Replacement Clutch..........................56

Marilyn Stemp ........................................6

Worth a thousand words

A high-performance solution

Be here now

About Avon...........................................58

Sam Kanish ..........................................12

20 things to know about tires

Trouble with authority

Rusted Nuts Tech .................................60

Bert Baker ...........................................14

Commandeering a proper workspace

How to be a popular kid

Ceramic Coatings 101 ...........................62

Rick Fairless .........................................16

Jet-Hot tells you how to keep cool

Economic indicators, Texas style

S&S Cycle Story ....................................64

Ed Youngblood ......................................72

Listen up, Knuckleheads

Shop Time with Mike Witt ......................66 Hard ridden Road King

Transcontinental record setters


IW Garage

STORY BY DAN PIKE, PHOTOS BY BRUCE WAHL PHOTOGRAPHY

DP Clutch Install Getting the power to the ground for an XR1200 o you’ve got an XR1200 and you’re looking for an aftermarket, high performance replacement clutch. The problem is, you’re having a tough time finding clutches listed specifically for your XR, but there are plenty of choices for regular 1991-2012 XLs. DP Brakes and FTF Cycles are here to offer you a solution. Although there are several differences between the XR and XL clutch assemblies, the only major difference in the clutch plates is how the factory chose to compensate for heat expansion within the plates. The XL’s spring plate (PN 3797790) has been removed from the center of the equation more than likely because of its tendency to shear rivets under high torque situations. Instead, the first parts to load into an XR’s basket are a spring seat (PN 37895-02), spring (PN 3789402), narrow friction plate (PN 37897-02), and an additional standard steel plate (PN 37913-90). In other words, if you’re willing to re-use one steel plate and the narrow friction plate, a 91-12 XL clutch kit from DP Brakes will do the trick. We chose the DP kit #DPHK501 and #DPHK506 friction and steel plates for their durability, high heat resistance and fade free performance.

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play at the lever. Drain the primary/trans lube. Remove the primary chain inspection cover and loosen the primary chain adjuster. Remove the clutch cover being careful not to loose the spring that sits on the clutch adjuster lock plate.

Remove the lock plate and turn the adjuster screw clockwise to remove the adjuster nut. Tilt the release ramps out of the primary cover as a unit taking caution not to let them separate or you’ll lose the balls. Unhook the cable coupling and slip it off of the cable. Remove the shift lever. As long as you’re not replacing the cable, remove the primary cover with the cable attached.

Install the clutch spring compressor onto the adjuster screw. While holding the draw screw still with a wrench, turn the Thandle just enough to un-seat the retaining ring. Gently pry the retaining ring out. Slide the spring seat out onto the draw screw and, leaving the tool attached, remove the pressure plate.

Next remove the clutch plates and lay them out on the bench left to right, face up, as they come out of the basket. Remove the narrow friction plate and spring for inspection. If all looks well, install them into the basket.

As with any repair, and proper tools are key. Get your hands on a quality clutch spring compressor and the rest of the job can be accomplished with common hand tools. Begin by disconnecting the negative battery cable. Then fully slacken the clutch cable adjuster to obtain maximum free

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IronWorks August 2012


tion if it is necessary to turn the adjuster to align the lock plate. Add one quart of oil to the primary checking to see that the oil level is even with the edge of the diaphragm spring. Next install the clutch adjuster spring, quad ring (seal), and the clutch cover.

Now locate the best, un-burnt, least worn, flat steel plate from your original clutch pack and install that into the basket. There’s no need to soak our DP friction discs so now, starting with a friction plate, and alternating between seven friction and six steel plates, install the clutch plates into the basket. You will have one extra friction plate left due to the factory’s narrow friction plate.

Install the pressure plate and retaining ring. Make sure the retaining ring is aligned so the ends are each captured by one of the eight posts. Back off the spring compressor making sure the spring seat ring remains centered in the snap ring. Install the primary cover being cautious of the shifter seal. Install the shift lever. Hook the cable coupling onto the cable end and then on to the release ramps. A little grease will help keep the ball bearings in place while you tip the release ramps into the primary cover.

Turn the primary adjuster in until the primary chain has about 1⁄2” of slack and tighten the lock nut. Now install the primary chain inspection cover.

Turn the clutch cable adjuster outward until there is about 1⁄8” of slack between the clutch perch and the outer cable and tighten the adjuster lock nut. Hook up your negative battery cable and you’re ready to ride! It’s a good idea to re-check your clutch adjustments after it’s had adequate time to bed in so make sure you check it out in 300-500 miles to see how it’s holding up. How did our plates hold up? After several days of testing, we found the DP clutch kit to perform as promised. Smooth engagement and a consistent adjustment whether riding around town or pushing it at the track. IW

*RESOURCES

FTF Cycles • Randolph, MA 781-961-9100 • www.ftfcycles.com DP Brakes and Clutches N.A. • Lancaster, NY 716-681-8806 • www.dp-brakes.com

Install the adjuster nut and turn the adjuster screw counter clockwise until light resistance is felt. Then turn the screw clockwise ¼ turn and install the lock plate. Only turn the screw in a clockwise direc-

Reader Service No. 22 IronWorks August 2012

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